Brake Warning light

[JohnnyTooBad]

So I got this warning light up on my dash yesterday (43k on the clock). It's the brake warning light. I looked it up in the manual, and it says I should panic and run screaming like a little girl and abandon my car on the side of the road. Uh... yeah.

So my question is, although my brakes seem to be functioning perfectly with no brake noise yet, is this really just a warning that my pads are getting thin, or is this light because my brakes are about to spontaneously combust?

Assuming it's just the pads, I've only changed one set of brake pads in my life, which were on a pickup and dirt cheap to replace the pads and rotors. It was very simple. So, for my A4 Avant, if I replace the pads before there is any damage to the rotors (metal on metal), should I also replace the rotors? I'm probably more inclined to replace them rather than get them turned if they need turning because I don't trust the shops and because it's probably just as cheap and alot quicker to just replace them if I have the wheels off.

I figure I'll just use OEM level quality as I've been happy with the performance of them and I'm easy on the car. No performance mods, not much hard driving, etc.

[mr shickadance]

first off, its a warning light, its letting you know that you should replace your brake pads.....not that they are broken, defunkt or about to explode.


secondly, there is quite a debate on whether or not it is okay to replace the pads and let the rotors be, or to replace both at the same time.

some people argue that if the rotors thickness is still within audi's specifications then its okay to just get new brake pads. the other side says that audi engineered the OEM rotors to be softer then average and to be replaced when replacing the pads

who is right in this? well its more of a grey area and not exactly a black and white line


if you have the money, i would say order a set of adam's rotors (drilled and slotted look pretty snazzy) and look into getting a set of aftermarket brake pads


i currently have ecs drilled and slotted, paired with ebc green stuff pads and while they squeak once and a while i love the way they look/perform/and make me not clean my wheels every drive


i have heard good things about hawk pads as well as ebc red stuff pads and if i had to do it all over again i think the only thing i would change is i would order a set of adam's rotors as he seems to care about his customers more then the average vendor


the decision is yours and now you have a decent amount of info to make a somewhat educated decision....but what ever you decide, do it within the month

[tankdeer]

It's your front pads. They have a little sensor it them that signals the light when they get thin. Replace them. Probably need to do your rotors too. I just did mine the other day - all 4 pads, rotors, and a fluid flush. It was honestly super easy. Should take you < 30 minutes per corner. And you need a caliper tool for the rears

[JohnnyTooBad]

Thanks Shicka. I really don't have an issue spending a few hundred bucks on pads and rotors on a performance car. I'll look into the Adams. I don't recall seeing Adams, but I do recall seeing the ebc red and green pads available through all the on-line retailers when I bought brakes for my old truck. I'll probably order this weekend and install next weekend. When I changed my first set of brakes, I was shocked at how easy it was and pissed at myself for never having DIY'd it before. I wasted a lot of money paying people to do it for me.

[WasGTIguy]

When my warning indicator came on, I drove another 10,000km before doing my pads

[tankdeer]

Update: Here's some pics. I went with the Adam's Rotors drilled & slotted with black hubs, and Stoptech Street Performance pads + I painted the calipers.

[Stubek]

So I got this warning light up on my dash yesterday (43k on the clock). It's the brake warning light. I looked it up in the manual, and it says I should panic and run screaming like a little girl and abandon my car on the side of the road. Uh... yeah.

Please let me know where you leave the car on the side of the road so I can properly dispose of it in my garage :)

[elwigglero]

I went with Adams rotors and Hawk HPS pads w/ SS lines. Good bang for the buck. Would do so again.

[matthewb2795]

It's your front pads. They have a little sensor it them that signals the light when they get thin. Replace them. Probably need to do your rotors too. I just did mine the other day - all 4 pads, rotors, and a fluid flush. It was honestly super easy. Should take you < 30 minutes per corner. And you need a caliper tool for the rears

How did you flush it? The only reason I ask is because I've read about having to use VAG-com to cycle the abs when bleeding the breaks. True/false? Hand pump work good enough?

[tankdeer]

How did you flush it? The only reason I ask is because I've read about having to use VAG-com to cycle the abs when bleeding the breaks. True/false? Hand pump work good enough?

My understanding (and what I did), was that the handpump is good for most of the fluid. And technically the ABS pump will still have old fluid in it. I was ok with this seeing as how my old fluid looked brand new, and I only have the old/ebay vag com which I assumed (but obviously didn't check because I am just that lazy), wouldn't allow me to do this. It's pretty limited.

But if you want to flush all the fluid, then yes, you need vagcom for the abs portion. If you want to just do most of it, a hand pump works just fine.


Edit: I just found this ross tech link. Says right there it's not needed unless your ABS pump goes dry. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/absbleeding.html

[adam's rotors]

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