Steering noticably stiff, choppy , and sticking...possibilities??

[wesleyfbm]

Over the past week of driving my steering has become noticably choppy and feel stiff or sticking. I checked the PS fluid, it was a little low but now is filled up...but still sticking. Could it be PS pump, rack, or control arms????

Planned on pulling my susp next week to get ready for summer lows and re-torque control arms but I dont want my car breaking down before then.

What are my possible causes for steering issues???

[somebody5788]

It would probably have to be a hydraulic problem. I know these are dampened steering racks. Mine was externally dampened and I actually eliminated the option when I went to replace my rack. Wasn't really on purpose but the new rack was an external and I just didn't put the external on. If you turn it fast does it lock up and then slow it's smooth? I had that before and didn't really like it lol. My guess is either you have an internal leak in the rack or the pump is failing. Cheapest thing might be to try flushing the fluid.

[Seerlah]

I was also going to suggest a flush. I usually go from the cheapest fixes (free) to the most expensive, hoping it gets fixed along the way. As for free, check for leaks. Find out why your fluid was low. And if you don't know when the last time your fluid was changed, now is the time to do the flush. I will be doing mine rather soon. Rock Auto has new reservoir tanks for like $20 after shipping (brand new).

[wesleyfbm]

Where do I look for leaks and how do I do a PS fluid flush??
Thanks for the replies

[Seerlah]

You basically just check the lines, and look for where a possible leak is. I asked about a flush the other day with a thread, so here's the link.

[Watson]

I have the same issue, pretty sure its my ps pump slowly going out, as it is VERY loud. I am not loosing fluid so I assume my ps rack is not leaking.

[Seerlah]

Well, pump is a lot more easier and cheaper to replace than the rack. Good thing you noticed early. If your pump is loud, ever take a look at the belt to see if that may be the where the noise is coming from? Just trying to cancel out the less expensive variables first.

[wesleyfbm]

I have never even checked the PS fluid level since ive owned the car(50kmiles) so I dont know when it got that low. I took a quick look when I checked the fluid level and didnt see any leaks from that quick glance.The pump doesnt seem to be super loud but there is a slight hissing coming from the motor area.

[wesleyfbm]

Whats the worst case scenario of me driving like this for a while...will it cause any major damage??

[Watson]

Ive been driving it like this since winter started. I may just be luck *knock on wood*

[Seerlah]

Whats the worst case scenario of me driving like this for a while...will it cause any major damage??

Motor? No
Steering rack? Big maybe

That's assuming that the issue is revolving around your hydraulic power steering system, and not your control arms. I would really do a power steering flush first, and see how things pan out after that.

[99blueb5]

listen to everyone, do a flush 99% chance its way overdue for a fluid change anyways, its like $30 invested in fluid

[wesleyfbm]

I will be pumped if its just the fluid flush.

Do I need a new resi??
And how much fluid will I need for the flush??

[somebody5788]

I'd try to flush at least a liter and a half through it.

[Seerlah]

I will be pumped if its just the fluid flush.

Do I need a new resi??
And how much fluid will I need for the flush??

I was told a new reservoir is needed because it has a filter in it. I purchased mine brand new from Rock Auto for $20 shipped. Ebay ones are $25 brand new, before shipping. If you can find a cheaper on, more power to you. But that's the cheapest I found it for. Also, if you look in one of the links I posted, people gave their ways of doing the flush.

What I am going to to is drain the fluid at the cooler. It is a lot more esier too, as all you would need to do is remove the front bumper for acess. No trying to squeeze your arm to get to the pump (haven't looked to see how easy it is to go from underneathe, but that seems to be irrelevant if draining from the cooler). Have the car raised before you do this, with front wheels (you need to be able to chock the wheels left and right to locking position, engine off, key in starting position, roughly 10xs each side to bleed system). I am pretty sure you will need to chock the whels also to get all the fluid out. If trying to rince the system first, you would want to pick up extra fluid (I would pick up 3 liters to be on the safe side of Audi specific fluid). After draining, refill system, bleed, top off as necessary, and continue to bleed till bubbles stop. Start car and let it idle for 5 min. Turn off car, drain again, then do the process all over again. But this time around, place in new reservoir with new fluid again (not the one you used to rinse the system). The fluid you place in this time is the fluid that is going to stay. It is recommended to do this every 2 years.

[wesleyfbm]

I wonder how much my shop would charge to do this as I need to do tranny fluid as well...as much as I like doing everything myself school mon-fri and work sat-sun kills me.

What do you mean chock the wheels?
And how do you bleed for bubbles??

[somebody5788]

I charge $78 for a normal car. That would probably be like 85 for our cars because of the special fluid but that includes labor.

[Seerlah]

I wonder how much my shop would charge to do this as I need to do tranny fluid as well...as much as I like doing everything myself school mon-fri and work sat-sun kills me.

What do you mean chock the wheels?
And how do you bleed for bubbles??

By chocking (maybe I should have used a different terminology), I mean turn the steering wheel to the end where it won't turn anymore. Go to the left and right 10xs each (wheels need to be off the gournd at this time, unless you can He-Man that sh*t). This is the bleeding process, in which the air bubbles will escape through the reservoir. You need to leave the cap of the reservoir off while doing this, along with topping off as necessary. When the air bubbles stop, that "should" mean that your system is clear of air pockets. I was told that there is a filter in the reservoir, and that should also be replaced (you need to replace the whole reservoir) when doing the flush/replacement.

[black99.5a4]

my steering was like this, all i did was top off the fluid and she's good.

turn wheels to the right, start car and check the level.. that's how you check it in these cars.. i just filled mine up, left the lid off, went back and forth with it till the steering felt good, tightened the lid and drove away.

[Seerlah]

And for good measure, always check your fluids. Know when they were changed also, just like your timing belt. This would include brake, coolant, oil, and power steering. Each of these have their own measuring chart associated with it. Trans and diff fluid is a different case though, as you can't possibly know how much is in there unless you drain and measure. But stay on top of your maintenance. Know your service intervals of when they need to be changed. These simple things will save you from a headache and bill later on.

[wesleyfbm]

Thank guys.
Ill prob try Bobbys method tomorrow since i have the fluid with me at school.

[wesleyfbm]

Bobby's method helped alot. With engine running turned wheel to right, took cap off, and turned the wheel back and forth. Steering feels alot smoother now. Thanks everyone.