paint hot side of turbo safe?

[outti-a4wd]

i was wondering if its safe to paing eh hot side of the turbo with exhaust pait like a light coat or heat temp red paint. i was wondering if the paint coat would hold in excess heat and not allow the turbo to cool proprely?

[sxman69]

Im not sure if that would work.

[EErie B6]

Its fairly easy to get the hotside to glow... i doubt paint will last long.

also...
they make turbo blankets specifically for holding heat in... i wouldn't worry about the heat factor.

[dumpedb5]

It will melt off.

[DRock3d]

I can't think of a stupider way to waste paint, this will be you

http://jalopnik.com/5726128/for-9000...-this-turbo-m3

[A4drei]

thats just disgusting.

[somebody5788]

You can ceramic coat but that's a totally different topic. Even that doesn't last long on a glowing turbo.

Some 1500* black paint on it, while it would burn right off it could potentially make it look a little newer after. But it's risky. There is also the risk of fire

[A4Rob]

Don't do it.

[yuriy]

Nope, gets way too hot.

[CamrideA4]

Don't do it.

This. There is no "paint" that will last, it's just going to burn off and smell horrible.

[stack]

there is paint with temp up to like 1500 degrees
but they never get red hot.

so no. the paint will like fuse into the metal.

better yet make an experiment. take a piece of metal. paint it, heat it up with a torch.
see what happens

[[email protected]]

No it won't work.

I have ceramic coated the hotside and it still got hot enough to push the impurities out to the surface.

[FNK]

1. Is it safe
-A ceramic coating designed for high temp would be safe
2. Could it last (Turbo glow is typically around 1500±100 F)
-Yes, there is a lot of different ceramic coating for such application, for example; the inside of Rankine engines (jet engine/turbine) use ceramic coating and it last the lifetime of the turbine.
3. Improvement in performance?
-Yes marginally, as heat is retained it will not irradiate surrounding part, a lot less conduction will occur and air will move faster (note, very small gain from only coating the turbo housing), thus spool will be sooner
4. Any danger of damaging the turbine?
-In the short run, no.
-On the long run, maybe, it's not possible to tell, only to assume, as it may not have been designed for this, although theses turbo are used in deserts and hotter countries. Has it will get hotter; you might need better cooling (mounted oil cooler), steel will expand more (possibly crack the ceramic... or not, it's high tech stuff)...

I would do it personally.

1. Find high end motosport who use turbos (such as old F1 cars, Ferrari F40...) dans try to find the info whenever it was coated (I know that current F1 ceramic coat the exhausts)
2. I suggest you look for turbine coating (The name and chemical formula)

[outti-a4wd]

thats what i was wondering if the temp gets hotter thatn 600? they make paint for exhaust.

[outti-a4wd]

Nope, gets way too hot.

thanks man theirs is a lot of people who just say stupid things insted of dropping good info.

[outti-a4wd]

i might try htat just to see it never hurts to learn and i have an extra k03 laying around lol

[outti-a4wd]

sounds good thanks for the help

[outti-a4wd]

I can't think of a stupider way to waste paint, this will be you

http://jalopnik.com/5726128/for-9000...-this-turbo-m3

man i like what you did with your engine, i dnt know you own a paint shop in mexico..

i acutally found a so turbo paint for the hot side good luck with them paint skills and dont for get to wear your helmet when you leave the house.

[Gaberossi]

thread jack: u can quote other members and put it all in one post...makes it easier for us viewers to read your thread /end thread jack

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Long story short, get a 2000F ceramic coat done. I got a manifold done for $75 so I can't imagine that a turbine housing would be much more.

[elballoonrat]

I use this.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...stcoatings.php

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Hmm, has it lasted? I'm going to get my manifold/turbine housing professionally done. However I may look for something to coat the outside of my testpipe with, just to keep the under hood temps down.

[elballoonrat]

yes. only place it comes up is where surface rust formed near edge. If i had prepped an put a better coat it probably would have done better. I would advise buying two cans because it isn't a totally full can. you can buy a cheap airbrush at harbor freight for twenty bucks that will spray it on just fine. I did internally also but wouldn't advise if your running 02 sensors.

It'll save you a few bucks, get some friends parts together to and do a bunch at once then split the cost.

[A4Rob]

I use this.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...stcoatings.php

Still burns off after several hours. I had my turbo rebuild and they put this stuff on the hot side. Gone after a few days.

[A4Shizzle]

I'm with FNK... I think a good ceramic coating is the only reasonable option that will hold up in the long run; it's just too hot for paint. If you're going to do this tho, you really should do the manifold and cat/test pipe too. That would reduce underhood temps and lower IAT somewhat. It'd also improve the cat's performance and maybe increase spool a little, but probably not much. I don't think there would be much issue with longevity, but I'd keep an eye on those oil temps for a while. I thought about doing this too, but it's really not worth it on a stock K03 :/

What coating or company did you use winston?

[A4Shizzle]

double post

[yuriy]

Coating the cat would probably destroy it in no time. Painting the hot side of a k03 makes just as much sense as having the cold side polished. Whats the point?

[sean1.8t]

man i like what you did with your engine, i dnt know you own a paint shop in mexico..

i acutally found a so turbo paint for the hot side good luck with them paint skills and dont for get to wear your helmet when you leave the house.

LOL WUT?

but seriously can't figure out what the fuck you're trying to say. ENGLISH! do you speak it?

and don't be mad because you asked probably the dumbest question's on the site to date this year, you've still got 11 more months to be de-throned, so there's hope

but not really....

[[email protected]]

I'm with FNK... I think a good ceramic coating is the only reasonable option that will hold up in the long run; it's just too hot for paint. If you're going to do this tho, you really should do the manifold and cat/test pipe too. That would reduce underhood temps and lower IAT somewhat. It'd also improve the cat's performance and maybe increase spool a little, but probably not much. I don't think there would be much issue with longevity, but I'd keep an eye on those oil temps for a while. I thought about doing this too, but it's really not worth it on a stock K03

What coating or company did you use winston?

I used the Swaintech White Lightning ceramic coating on my tubular manifold and turbo housing.

The stuff did its job as advertised and kept the heat in as the engine bay was much cooler, but it turned my stainless steel manifold into a brittle metal from the superheating of the metal and cracked a runner and I could see the impurities bubble to the top from the coating on the turbo.

[SR-71]

My thermal coating (not ceramic) is holding up just fine after about 6 months of abuse.

[A4Shizzle]

Yea, coating a stock cat might not be the best idea with a chipped K03 @ 20psi. I know there are companies that offer coated cats, but maybe it's different with HFCs. Most people are usually running test pipes by the time they get to ceramic coatings anyway. However, if someone wants to coat my cat for me I'll be the guinea pig. I do see people coating the outside of the turbine housing and DP, but if we're talking stock turbo it won't really be worth it.

I heard good things about Swain and Jet-hot, that sucks to hear. Do you think the thickness of the tubing affected the manifold?

[FNK]

Catalyser need to run hot, but not too hot as cell will collapse.

As for the cracking of the Stainless steel manifold, it's true as SS expand way more than plain or alloy steel. (The main reason it's not used to bolt vital parts of the engine, also because they bond to steel)
For this matter, Iron casting is the most viable solution for ceramic coating. (F1, and such teams, use ceramic on titanium alloy exhaust, but its quite costly)
The higher proportion of carbon in Iron makes it more stable mechanically and thermally.

As steel heat, the grain, or crystals they are made of, increase in size before returning to normal (ambiant temp).
This affect a lot less Irons and some Heat resistant steels, such as disk brake (4340 steel (cheap disk brake warp because of the cheaper grade of steel)).

The more I think of it, iron manifolds are well suited for it. Just like old iron oven last for generations without cracking true many many heat cycles.

Turbo exhaust is made of cast iron to cope whit a lot of heat, but exhaust turbine (impeller) is made of aluminium alloy (TiAl), which melt at 2660F... so it's fine to use ceramic heat insulation!

If the ceramic burn, the surface wasn't correctly prepped and/or the ceramic was of poor grade. Before buying, find the chemical properties. You will find usefull informations such as the melting point.

[[email protected]]

Most likely it was the thin walls of the 321 tubing that couldn't handle the heat cycling that would happen every time you use the car.

I was warned, thought my internet knowledge was better than real world advice from my boys and I had an expensive education.

Trying to remove the White Lightning takes a lot of work too, so make sure you really, really want to get it coated before you do so.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Truth is, SS is not a very good material for making manifolds out of. After talking to some fabricators and welding instructors I've come to the conclusion that the only reason for using SS was a) because it's shiny, and like fish, consumers are attracted to shiny things b) it's resistant to corrosion and doesn't require any subsequent coatings and c) it's light which is key for racing teams.

As for it's thermal expansion properties, SS doesn't flex as well as mild steel so it tends to break along the weld sites as it heat cycles. As far as I've been able to tell, ceramic coated mild steel is probably the best combo in terms of being able to take heat cycling and resisting corrosion. Also, it's way cheaper than doing an equivalent SS manifold. The only drawback is that it's going to be heavier than a SS mani.

Finally, to the OP, it looks like the best option for your manifold and turbine housing are professional ceramic coatings. However I'd say that the portion of the exhaust aft of the turbine can be painted with a high end ceramic paint.

[sean1.8t]

Truth is, SS is not a very good material for making manifolds out of.

both SS and a mild steel have their trade offs when it comes which is better. but if the SS manifold is built to perfection as such companies like Agtronic and the robot at Full-Race, then there is nothing wrong with SS. problem is too many companies build sub quality manifolds that inevetably crack

[MLFHNTR]

That sounds like a terrible plan. you going to paint your whole exhaust/manifold to match as well ??

[ZimbutheMonkey]

both SS and a mild steel have their trade offs when it comes which is better. but if the SS manifold is built to perfection as such companies like Agtronic and the robot at Full-Race, then there is nothing wrong with SS. problem is too many companies build sub quality manifolds that inevetably crack

Agreed that you can build a SS manifold that will last. However, the costs are pretty prohibitive. $1300 isn't chump change (at least for me it isn't). I figure building a ceramic coated mild steel manifold out of thicker piping for $300-$400 will be a good bang for the buck.

[FNK]

I suppose all your questions are answered!