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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings J-jizzle's Avatar
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    How to Remove/install Clutch Pilot Bearing

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    I'm slowly having time to install my clutch. I ordered a new Pilot Bearing since it is recommended to replace when doing a clutch install. But I do not know the best way to remove and install the new one.

    Here is a link to be part.
    http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...Bearing/ES756/

    You can see it here in the center, where the flywheel bolts up.


    Thanks for looking. Help.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings Outerfroggy1's Avatar
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    Thats an odd one. In trucks they are pressed into the flywheel, and not the crank. You can use a press or a hammer and a socket to knock them out and put the new one in. Just did a clutch job today actually.

    For that one, I dunno? a slide hammer maybe? Do you have a torch? id just cut it out lol

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4 TSCHUSS's Avatar
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings rbj325's Avatar
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    I'd (acetylene)torch it even if I was using the puller. Just be careful of the rear main seal.

    It will slide out like butter.
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings a4darkness's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info guys, was wondering about this myself.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings Wet0willy01's Avatar
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    If you have something to fill the hole (ie spare input shaft or something the same O.D.) Pack the bearing with grease, and insert the shift, then hit it with a hammer. The grease will compress and push the bearing out (like hydraulics)

    http://www.ehow.com/how_7490569_use-...e-bearing.html

    http://www.custompistols.com/cars/ar...ot_bushing.htm
    ^photos to reference
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings J-jizzle's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings a4darkness's Avatar
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    J, you got any words of wisdom for this fella? Going to tackle the clutch after Christmas and was wondering if you came across anything you'd feel inclined to mention. TIA

  9. #9
    Senior Member Three Rings Outerfroggy1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wet0willy01 View Post
    If you have something to fill the hole (ie spare input shaft or something the same O.D.) Pack the bearing with grease, and insert the shift, then hit it with a hammer. The grease will compress and push the bearing out (like hydraulics)

    http://www.ehow.com/how_7490569_use-...e-bearing.html

    http://www.custompistols.com/cars/ar...ot_bushing.htm
    ^photos to reference
    My god thats genious

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings a4darkness's Avatar
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    x2

    Needed the pics in the MG article for it to make sense. Damn. Nice post Andrew.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings rbj325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wet0willy01 View Post
    If you have something to fill the hole (ie spare input shaft or something the same O.D.) Pack the bearing with grease, and insert the shift, then hit it with a hammer. The grease will compress and push the bearing out (like hydraulics)

    http://www.ehow.com/how_7490569_use-...e-bearing.html

    http://www.custompistols.com/cars/ar...ot_bushing.htm
    ^photos to reference
    I have tried this with no success on our pilot bearings. Has anyone successfully done this?
    E85!

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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings a4darkness's Avatar
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    Uh oh...

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings J-jizzle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4darkness View Post
    J, you got any words of wisdom for this fella? Going to tackle the clutch after Christmas and was wondering if you came across anything you'd feel inclined to mention. TIA
    The write up on a4mods.com is a good place to start reading on how to do this. The best advice I have for you is to have all the tools you need. Having the right stuff makes jobs such as this much easier. You might also want to think about replacing your rear coolant flange after you remove the transmission since it is easy to get too. (the top nut is a PITA but not if you have a ratchet wrench). Also its good to have a transmission jack. I have removed 2 trannys before using a car jack, having a transmission jack this time made shit a lot easier/enjoyable.

    I got my Pilot Bearing out with this tool I rented from AutoZone. ($160)
    Principle is the same as the pictures above. But you use a slide hammer instead of pressing it out.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings pape's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbj325 View Post
    I have tried this with no success on our pilot bearings. Has anyone successfully done this?
    I have done this with a bar of soap with great results

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings doublezero30's Avatar
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    can a pilor bearing cause a rattle when not holding the clutch in? mine wasnt replaced when i did the clutch job over a year ago and somethings rattling like shit. ive always assumed i was given a bad throwout bearing. i have a DMFW.
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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Wet0willy01's Avatar
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    I wouldn't think a bad pilot bearing would only make noise when the clutch is disengaged... Seeing that when disengaged the input shaft wouldn't be spinning, or spinning very very lightly

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Tone-Dogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4darkness View Post
    x2

    Needed the pics in the MG article for it to make sense. Damn. Nice post Andrew.
    x3, subscribed, would like to know OP's method, I'm about to tackle this job too and was going to use the puller method.
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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings gotboost's Avatar
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    I also used the pilot bearing tool that AutoZone rents.
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings rbj325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pape View Post
    I have done this with a bar of soap with great results
    Hmm soap. Maybe the grease I used was too thin.

    I will try this next time.
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wet0willy01 View Post
    I wouldn't think a bad pilot bearing would only make noise when the clutch is disengaged... Seeing that when disengaged the input shaft wouldn't be spinning, or spinning very very lightly
    The situation here, is when does the pilot bearing become active. With the clutch engaged, the input shaft and the flywheel-pilot bearing rotate at the same RPM, there is zero relative difference in RPM between the shaft and pilot bearing-flywheel. Only when the clutch is disengaged, does the pilot bearing-flywheel rotate at a different RPM than the input shaft, and this is the mode when the pilot bearing is loaded and will make noise if there is any defect in the pilot bearing.
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings lookaught's Avatar
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    FWIW I found the slide hammer puller from Autozone to be much easier to use than the screw type puller (which failed miserably). The slide hammer attachment needed to be ground down a bit to fit, as it comes it's a bit too big.
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings doublezero30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by diagnosticator View Post
    The situation here, is when does the pilot bearing become active. With the clutch engaged, the input shaft and the flywheel-pilot bearing rotate at the same RPM, there is zero relative difference in RPM between the shaft and pilot bearing-flywheel. Only when the clutch is disengaged, does the pilot bearing-flywheel rotate at a different RPM than the input shaft, and this is the mode when the pilot bearing is loaded and will make noise if there is any defect in the pilot bearing.
    so youre saying it could be my pilot bearing, not my throwout bearing making the rattling noise?
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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doublezero30 View Post
    so youre saying it could be my pilot bearing, not my throwout bearing making the rattling noise?
    With the clutch engaged in neutral, it would not be likely for the pilot bearing to be able to make any noises since the pilot bearing and input shaft are rotating at the same RPM. With the clutch disengaged, it could be either the pilot bearing or the through-out bearing making the rattling noise, but it's most likely the through-out bearing.
    Is the noise worse in neutral with the clutch disengaged or in-gear with the clutch disengaged, or the same? Any noise with the clutch engaged in neutral?
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  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings doublezero30's Avatar
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    in gear it does not make any noise except from my torn up 1st gear, only in neutral with the clutch engaged (no foot on pedal) does it make a rattle. im just trying to figure out if i should have the pilot bearing replaced when i do my trans in the next 2-4 weeks along wiht the throwout bearing or if i shouldnt bother..
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  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings a4darkness's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-jizzle View Post
    The write up on a4mods.com is a good place to start reading on how to do this. The best advice I have for you is to have all the tools you need. Having the right stuff makes jobs such as this much easier. You might also want to think about replacing your rear coolant flange after you remove the transmission since it is easy to get too. (the top nut is a PITA but not if you have a ratchet wrench). Also its good to have a transmission jack. I have removed 2 trannys before using a car jack, having a transmission jack this time made shit a lot easier/enjoyable.

    I got my Pilot Bearing out with this tool I rented from AutoZone. ($160)
    Principle is the same as the pictures above. But you use a slide hammer instead of pressing it out.
    I've got the a4mods + Audi Geek write-ups, relevant Bentley pages, a decent amount of tools and a tranny jack. Plus a buddy (w/lots more tools) who does this kind of stuff all the time, so that helps.

    Gonna do the coolant flange, pilot bearing and a few hoses as well while she's dropped as well. Just figured I'd ask to see if I was missing anything.

    Thanks for the info J.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    With the clutch engaged in neutral, it's not really possible for the pilot bearing or the through-out bearing to make rattling noises, because there is no load on either bearing.(pedal not pushed down.) More likely, sounds to me like your DMFW is worn out and causing the rattle noise, based on when the rattle occurs. In any case, replacing the pilot bearing should always be included when replacing the clutch. (For worn out clutches, not necessarily failed low mileage clutches.)
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings Papachristou's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lookaught View Post
    FWIW I found the slide hammer puller from Autozone to be much easier to use than the screw type puller (which failed miserably). The slide hammer attachment needed to be ground down a bit to fit, as it comes it's a bit too big.
    LMFAO! i did the exact same thing! it was brand new when i got it and i ground it down quite a bit lol. I just touched it up with some flat black paint before i took it back and told them it was too small hehe. FYI i also found the slide hammer to be easier.

    the Pilot bearing can be a pain to get started back in evenly but just keep trying. it will find its home eventually. a few people gave me that advice when i was doing my clutch



    good call on doing the coolant flange while its easy to get to!
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  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings doublezero30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by diagnosticator View Post
    With the clutch engaged in neutral, it's not really possible for the pilot bearing or the through-out bearing to make rattling noises, because there is no load on either bearing.(pedal not pushed down.) More likely, sounds to me like your DMFW is worn out and causing the rattle noise, based on when the rattle occurs. In any case, replacing the pilot bearing should always be included when replacing the clutch. (For worn out clutches, not necessarily failed low mileage clutches.)
    so is it ok to do a "flywheel slap" and not replace the clutch with the flywheel? my clutch is fairly new. i wouldnt mind going LWFW. and i could just press a new pilor bearing into the LWFW and not have to worry about it?
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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doublezero30 View Post
    so is it ok to do a "flywheel slap" and not replace the clutch with the flywheel? my clutch is fairly new. i wouldnt mind going LWFW. and i could just press a new pilor bearing into the LWFW and not have to worry about it?
    Yes, replacing the flywheel while reusing the existing low mileage clutch assembly is not a problem. However, the pilot bearing is installed in the crankshaft, not the flywheel. One thing to consider with a LWFW, is that it will almost certainly make a similar rattling noise as the worn out DMFW you have now. The rattling noise is from the crankshaft torsional vibrations passing through the faulty DMFW, (that when in good condition absorbs the vibrations from the crankshaft,) and then causes the gears to oscillate within the free play of the gear tooth clearance in the trans, with the trans in neutral and the clutch engaged. So it's actually the transmission rattling, not the clutch or through-out bearing. Since a LWFW cannot absorb the torsional vibrations from the crankshaft, the same or similar gear rattle will occur with a LWFW that you are experiencing now with the bad DMFW. IMO, I think you are bettor off, and will be happier with a new or reman DMFW instead of a LWFW over the long term.
    Last edited by diagnosticator; 12-28-2010 at 07:13 AM.
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  30. #30
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Anyone have some more tips on how to get the pilot bearing out? I have tried over and over with the tool you rent from Autozone with no luck..

    Thanks!

  31. #31
    Registered User Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by dga4 View Post
    Anyone have some more tips on how to get the pilot bearing out? I have tried over and over with the tool you rent from Autozone with no luck..

    Thanks!
    Did you rent the slide hammer type? The other ones wont work well if the pilot bearing housing is damaged. I can usually pull mine out with a few hits with my slide hammer type of bearing puller.

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings drjonez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-jizzle View Post
    The write up on a4mods.com is a good place to start reading on how to do this. The best advice I have for you is to have all the tools you need. Having the right stuff makes jobs such as this much easier. You might also want to think about replacing your rear coolant flange after you remove the transmission since it is easy to get too. (the top nut is a PITA but not if you have a ratchet wrench). Also its good to have a transmission jack. I have removed 2 trannys before using a car jack, having a transmission jack this time made shit a lot easier/enjoyable.

    I got my Pilot Bearing out with this tool I rented from AutoZone. ($160)
    Principle is the same as the pictures above. But you use a slide hammer instead of pressing it out.
    HF makes the same one....
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  33. #33
    Registered User Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by drjonez View Post
    HF makes the same one....
    Yes, a Pittsburgh brand for $59 Most likely made in China.

  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings drjonez's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Hood View Post
    Yes, a Pittsburgh brand for $59 Most likely made in China.
    Is there anything @ HF that isn't made in China? ;)

    Wait for it to go on sale, use the 20% off, get it for $20. Good for a few uses.
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  35. #35
    Registered User Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by drjonez View Post
    Is there anything @ HF that isn't made in China? ;)

    Wait for it to go on sale, use the 20% off, get it for $20. Good for a few uses.
    That works if you can wait for it. lol

    I paid about $175 for a high quality version of that tool, have already used it many times on my own car.

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Bread trick usually gets the job done :-)

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  37. #37
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Not sure this trick can always work, some pilot bearings have a closed end in the depth.


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