Replacing speakers and headunit.

[Antekaudi]

So recently i installed Alpine Type-R sub 12" with 500w rms amp and it sounds amazing. I have good bass but the overall sound is not good enough for me.

I have Symphony II non bose.

I was thinking about getting this:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-...&skuId=9763949

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-...&skuId=9442187
(this is great product it plugs in to the headunit so that u dont have to run extra wires and new amp from the trunk.)

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-...=1199494646605

2 Pairs of those ( Front + Rear)

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Metra+-+...ract_desc=null

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Scosche+...audi&cp=1&lp=3

OR

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Metra+-+...udi&cp=1&lp=13


- What else do i need ?
- Will the speaker wire already in the doors be enough to support 40W rms per channel ?
- Is this harness and any good ?
- Which Installation kit Scosche or Metra ?

Thanks !

And yes i want to buy all this stuff from Best Buy, I work there and i get about 60% off on alpine products.

[Antekaudi]

No one has any input :( ?

[Ori0n]

The stock speaker wiring should be fine.

Just be aware of the K-line which is connected to the stock radio unit. If you short it out/ground it, you might have to replace your K-line.

[SEATONE]

antenna adapter metra 40-EU10, and you will need to cut the factory speakers out of the base in the doors or make new ones. I would recommend a real 4ch amp for the highs. that mini amp is ok but if you want more clarity do alpines 4ch.

[Antekaudi]

I am not looking for something crazy and i dont wanna spend lots of money and time on this setup.

Whats a K-line ?

What do you mean i will have to cut them out ? Any pictures ?

We put new speakers in my friends sti in 5 minutes lol... those cars are so cheaply made...

[alpinestar180]

ok a few things here. Skip the mini amp. the head unit you are buying is 50w X4 and the mini amp is 45X4. it doesn't add power, it takes the preamp out and amplifies that(no 45w+50w per channel, in stead it dumps the 50 watts and gives it less power. that is a waste. that amp is for head units that put out 25 watts rms per channel and want more power)

Second, go the extra money for the type R components. there is a big difference between every level of alpine gear. The type E stuff is not worth its weight in shit, the type s is slightly better, the R's sound nice, the X-reference(which is what i have) soiund very good, and the Type X-PRO (carbon-kevlar midbass driver) sounds the best of them all. I have a similar setup and i will say a few things.

-First Skip the mini amp thing.

-Second that head unit should work out nicely. i have the model that is one cheaper and i like it. (even the 35wRMSX4 is enough for what i do with it. )

-Third, the wiring adapter is good for getting power to the unit and the front speakers, but not the rears, or the turn on lead. You will need to tap a switched fuse for the turn on lead, and you will probably want to run wires through to the trunk and pick up the rear speakers after the amp. The rear speakers run through the stock amp wiring and will sound bad. really bad. i ran wires to my trunk out of the head unit for the rears, and cut the stock amp in the trunk out of the circuit.

- Fourth, The speakers you posted a link for are coaxial, the ones in our cars are component passive 2-ways.(that means the two drivers -low and hi- are separate not put together). you may be able to get away with using coaxials but again it will sound like ass. the high frequency will point at your shoes and music will sound muddy.
I recommend you get these: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...e_SPR-13S.aspx
they are components, they are Type R which is better and will match the sub, and they are just an extra $25 for the set on this site (i buy all my stuff there. best prices i could find.)

- Fifth The scosche is the mounting kit i used, but no aftermarket stereo bracket has ever fit a car perfectly. they are always cheesy and too big by a fraction of an inch. but for the sound quality, its so worth it.

This wil be WAYYYYYYYYYYY harder than putting speakers in your friends STI. Because of how shallow the hole in the front door is the stock speakers are made as part of a plastic spacer. You need to cut the speaker out of the spacer with a dremmel or something and screw/glue the new ones in the hole you made. otherwise the hole in the door is about 1" deep and your speakers will never fit. I did it in my car. it was a pain, i admit, but the sound quality is vastly better. I also have a fiberglass sub enclosure i made following the diy on a4mods.com and it made the bass much tighter than a slotted cabinet, or MDF sealed enclosure.

ask me any questions about car stereo installs in the b6.
pm me if you need any help on this issue, or the install. Id be willing to help you do it if you can get to boston or northern NJ, depending on whre in ct you are from

[Meeks32]

As Alpinestar stated skip the mini amp, but if you can get a 4 channel amp or atleast a 2 channel to power the type-r components if you do get them. I have Polk SR components in my car & Focal K2's prior to them & wouldn't think about trying to power a decent pair of component speakers off a head unit. They may state 50x4 but there's no way they do that in the real world just like many home theater receivers you buy at best buy state 120w x7 when under test actually only put out around 40w per channel.

[Antekaudi]

Headunit is 50W peak, 18 rms. Mini amp is 45rms so thats more then 50% gain.

Thanks Alpinestar180 !

Doing work on audis is a bitch. Do you know how deep stock spacers are ?

I just dont wanna run new wires to the doors cause that would be suicide.

I have read some good reviews about the mini amp. The only thing is that it would be only for front and rear speakers. Rest would have still run from stock amp ?

[biglip]

agreed, working on audi is a bitch, my mechanic clears his schedule when he sees me role up to his door

[alpinestar180]

Headunit is 50W peak, 18 rms. Mini amp is 45rms so thats more then 50% gain.

Thanks Alpinestar180 !

Doing work on audis is a bitch. Do you know how deep stock spacers are ?

I just dont wanna run new wires to the doors cause that would be suicide.

I have read some good reviews about the mini amp. The only thing is that it would be only for front and rear speakers. Rest would have still run from stock amp ?

ok so if the mini is 45 rms thats not so bad. the spacers are a few inches deep. 2 1/2" id guess.

you wouldnt run new wires to the doors, jsut to the trunk. behind the carpet on the passengers side in the trunk is the stock amp. just cut the wires on the harness to it and pick up the speaker wires to the doors from there, thereby cutting the amp out of the loop. you could just patch the input wires to the output wires and then cut the wires for output on the headunit adapter from the rca jacks to co out to speaker level, but that puts a lot of faith in audi's stock wiring. and if you are going with more than a basic head unit setup, i wouldn't.

and what do you mean "The only thing is that it would be only for front and rear speakers" aside from those what are you amping? your sub already has an amp. and screw the center channel. it is worthless and i dont even use mine.

[Antekaudi]

For some reason i cant visualize what you are saying.

Is there anyway you can make a diagram using the headunit from the link and alpine mini amp to show me how ti would be connected ?

Of course if u have time.

Thanks

[BASARAB]

A little threadjacking, but it might be useful for others too. I have Bose, so basically I have to cut the stock amp, remove speakers, put new amp, put new speakers and just use the same wiring? That easy?

[Antekaudi]

It sounds simple right lol ?

I dont know if the gauge of the speaker wire would be enough to run ~80W rms per channel.