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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings nnnick's Avatar
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    DIY: Retrofitting B6 S4 Recaro Seats into a B7 A4 (w Pressure Plate Swap)

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    I collaborated with koolade9 in this process and I've now done it successfully on my car and he's done it on at least two other b7s that I know of, so I think we have the process down pat. Big thanks to koolade for helping me out with this and our late night brainstorming sessions to figure out my various fault codes

    Disclaimer: The airbag system is a VERY important safety item, and you should be very careful in tampering with it. I am not responsible for any damages you may occur and highly recommend you do this at your own risk. In other words, don't sue me. But if done carefully, this should be DIY-able by most people with a decent grasp of wiring and such.

    I originally wrote this up on my blog, but I'm reposting here for those who are interested. The original version can be found here: http://nickscarblog.com/diy/how-to-i...-warning-light

    Purpose of Mod: Although the B6 S4 Recaro seat will bolt right up at the factory mounting spots, and the wiring harnesses will plug in to the car fine, you will get an Airbag warning light when you initially install B6 seats. The difficulty in installing B6 seats into a B7 is that B6 A4 & S4s do not have a pressure control module in the front passenger seat (this part is often referred to as pressure plate, or even a bladder, although it is really a hydraulic system). This module is essential to the functionality of the B7 Airbag system, as it determines if someone is sitting in the passenger seat and will activate/deactivate the airbag system for the passenger side accordingly. If this sensor isn’t found, a warning light is triggered which disables all airbags in the car – not good.

    To fix this, you’ll need to swap the pressure control module from your original B7 A4 seats into the B6 seats. You must also swap the seat buckle from your B7 seats, since the pressure control module plugs into the seat belt buckle and the airbag system checks for both a seat belt & the pressure control module to enable the passenger airbag.

    I strongly recommend reading this DIY all the way through before starting so you fully understand what is involved and why everything needs to be done and how it all works! Also, I recommend not cutting any corners when doing this – the system is VERY sensitive. If the wiring has any kinks in it, the pressure control module isn’t secured and lying flat in the factory location, or anything else is even slightly off, you’ll still have an airbag light out. It took me several attempts before I finally got the airbag light to go away because I cut corners and did not mount the ballasts & pressure control plate securely and left the old wiring in too – cutting corners does NOT save you time with this mod…be thorough and meticulous!

    Step 1: Remove your B7 A4 Seats

    Removing your seats is quite simple. There are four bolts that hold it in place along the sliding rails on the bottom of the seat. Two are in front, and two are behind the seat. Move the seat all the way forward to get to the back ones, and all the way back to get to the front ones. Use a triple square to remove the four bolts holding the seat in. If you don’t have a triple square, a T50 Torx Bit and a socket wrench will work too if you don’t have a triple square – just be careful not to strip the bolts (some stripping is probably inevitable, so just be careful). Remove the bolts all of the way and then raise the seat as high as it will go, center the seat in the middle of the tracks, and adjust the incline of the seat so that it is fully upright or even slightly inclined making an acute angle – this will make it easier to get in and out of the doorway as well as easier to work on once out of the car.



    Once the seat is totally unbolted, tilt it back and disconnect the wiring harnesses. There are three or four plugs to pull out, depending on if you have heated seats or not. Be careful and do not tug the wires directly as you don’t want to pull anything out of the harness.

    Lastly, you’ll have to detach the base of the seatbelt from its anchor point on the seat itself. Remove the plastic cover and you’ll see the seat the seat belt ends in a metal fixture which snaps over a bolt – it’s actually a simple mechanism. To remove it, simply pull the tab outward and push the metal clip downward and it will slide off the circular bolt. The picture below should help illustrate what it looks like:



    Step 2: Removing the Seat Belt Buckle from your B7 A4 Seats

    Now that we have the seat out of the car, it’s time to start disassembling it. Start with removing the seat belt buckle, as the more stuff you get out of the way, the easier it is to get the pressure plate out later.

    To remove the seat belt buckle, use a triple square to loosen the bolt. If you don’t have a triple square, use a set of Channel locks to loosen the bolt – this will put some small dents or bite marks into the bolt (see below), but the bolt is hidden from view once installed anyway. Once the bolt is out, also unplug the wiring harness (which plugs into the pressure control module and will be critical for later) and you can completely remove the seat belt buckle.



    So far, so easy! Now on to the fun stuff!

    Step 3: Removing the B7 Pressure Control Module (Pressure Plate)

    This is scarier than it sounds, but you’ll be partially taking apart the bottom of your seat to get this out. Once complete, no one will be able to tell you ever touched your seats yet alone took them apart.

    Start by removing the storage compartment under the seat, as it really clears up a lot of room and you’ll be thankful later. It is held on by four torx screws, I think they were approx T20 but I can’t remember at the moment. If you don’t have torx bits, a set of hex keys or allen keys should do the trick. Their mounting locations are as shown:



    Now that you have that out of the way, time to (partially) remove the seat cover off of the bottom of the seat. Start with removing the two metal clips on the bottom of the seat:



    Next, you’ll see that the fabric is stretched on all four sides of the seats – you only need to remove the front edge and one of the side edges to have enough room to pull out the pressure plate. Leaving the back and other side edge attached will help you put the seat back together and save a lot of time, although you can take off more if you really want (I took off three edges before realizing I probably only needed to take off two). At the end of the fabric it is capped off with a rubber fitting that runs the length of the bottom of the seat along all four edges. That rubber fitting stretches over black metal prongs on the bottom of the seat, which holds the fabric securely over the seat cushion. To remove the fabric, you’ll have to pull the rubber fitting off of the metal prongs one by one, and it will simply come loose. This is easier to explain by a picture – I pried it off using a flat head screwdriver, although some popped off just using my hands:



    After prying it off, you can see the black metal prongs that the rubber fitting at the end of the seat fabric hooks onto:



    The front comes off by either snapping the rubber fitting off the black metal prongs (like above for the side edge) or by removing three torx screws that you can see when you remove the storage compartment.

    Once you have the front and side edges removed, you can pull the cushion and fabric far enough back to expose the Pressure Control module:



    Removing the pressure control plate is pretty easy, there are three black tabs you need to pop out (two pictured above, and a third one near the back of the pressure control module), you can remove these by pushing them through from the underside of the seat. To remove the red plastic anchor into the seat cushion foam you can either rip it out, as I did, or be gentle about it and try to get it out otherwise – you won’t really be able to reuse that mounting point regardless.

    When removing the pressure plate, all you need to pull through is the hydraulic hose and the plug/sensor at the end of it. That sensor has a connector that connects to the wiring harness which has a ‘do not disconnect’ sticker on it. Go ahead and disconnect that and just pull the plate through with that hose and connector only (note: do this at your own risk. If you want to be absolutely cautious, pull all of the wiring through in tact, however you can disconnect this cable without any permanent problems or issues). From here, you can re-assemble the top portion of the donor B7 seat and now focus on removing the wiring from beneath your B7 seat.

    An important point to remember is that the plate system is hydraulic, and filled with fluid. If you try to cut or disconnect the hose or sensor, you can permanently damage the plate/system and it may not work again. Only disconnect at the point where the factory harnesses plug in to each other!

    Once you pull it out (with all wiring still attached) it will look like this:


    Next, you’ll want to remove the rest of the wiring for the pressure plate – from the harness you disconnected from the pressure control module’s hose, all the way down to the black harness that plugs into the ground of the car. To do this, you should unwind all the fabric tape to gain access to the wiring, although another option is slicing through the tape to ‘split’ it open. This is much more dangerous, as you run the risk of cutting the sheath. Once the wiring is free, it can be separated from the rest of the wiring pretty easily. You will also need to unscrew the control module/ballast for the pressure control plate wiring, and the two harness connector mounts can pop out as well.

    A word to the wise: It is critical it is to pay close attention to the wiring on both the donor seat and transplant seat. This way you can mimic the same mounting points and route the wires the exact same way. Make mental notes (or take pictures) so you can trace every wire and where they are mounted on the bottom of the seat, what holes or passages they go through, etc. The system is VERY sensitive, so installing it as close to factory spec as possible will ensure minimal issues and allow the system to work as it should.

    Step 4: Preparing the B6 Recaro

    First, start by removing the old seat belt buckle and the old airbag wiring harness.

    Next, remove the storage compartment for easier access to remove the old wiring and install the new wiring. It’s the same process as before, there are four bolts that can be removed using hex keys or a torx bit and then the storage compartment will come off.

    Once the storage compartment is off, you can then remove all of the old wiring very easily. You’ll want to take out the wiring for the old black plug that went from the seat belt buckle to the black harness on the floor of your car. It is not necessary and best to get it out of the way to avoid any mistakes or problems down the road.

    And now, we’re ready for the pressure control module transplant surgery. Take a deep breath, it’s time to take apart those lovely Recaro seats you paid a pretty penny for.

    Step 5: Installing the Pressure Control Module in the B6 Recaro Seat

    The leather Recaro fabric removes the same way as before – disconnect the rubber fitting at the end of the fabric from the metal prongs on the underside of the seat. You really only need to remove one side of the seat, and the front edge of the seat – you can leave the back edge and one of the side edges still firmly attached.

    The side edge removes the same as before, use a flat head screw driver to pull the rubber fitting off of the metal prongs. The front edge can be removed by removing 3 torx screws behind where the storage compartment used to be. If you can’t get to those, it will pop out of place if you pull on it, although you may weaken the clips or tear the fabric if you’re not super careful.

    I only needed to remove the front and side to have enough room to squeeze my hands under the seat cushion to feed the wiring through the hole in the seat and place the pressure plate in, and attach it to the mounting points on the bottom of the seat. There are three mounting points, two toward the front of the seat, and one in the middle toward the back of the pressure plate. MAKE SURE IT IS SECURED AT ALL THREE POINTS! The pressure plate is VERY sensitive, and you need to make sure it is lying securely in place and will not move around!



    You will also need to cut a small 1″ slit in the white cloth to pass the wiring and hose through it. Be sure to place the pressure control module ON TOP of the cloth, so the cloth will protect the pressure control module from getting snagged on the metal base of the seat. Since the pressure control module is hydraulic, a snag in the plastic could cause the liquid to leak, which would then ruin the system.

    Woohoo! The hard part is done. Now let’s put your seat back together so it looks normal again. Once you’ve made sure the pressure control module is secured and lying flat without pinching any wiring or anything, simply reattach the edge of the seat to the black metal prongs, and snap back in the front of the seat…and voila, no one could probably ever tell you did anything to the seat!
    Last edited by nnnick; 09-25-2010 at 11:02 AM.
    Current: 08 R8 6MT, 14 Cayenne GTS, 98 Saleen XP8
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings nnnick's Avatar
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    Step 6: Wiring & Installing the Recaro Seat

    It’s pretty simple from here. The new pressure control module plugs into two places: the seat belt buckle and the harness on the floor of your car. If you haven’t already, install the b7 seat belt buckle, and the smaller harness of the pressure control module will plug in to the wiring coming off of the seat belt buckle.

    Next, clean up the wiring with electrical tape and secure the pressure control module wiring by taping it to the other wiring going into the ground (the green, red, and yellow harnesses). I have created a diagram on where I mounted everything on my seat – however, your seat could be different, and I may have parts of this wrong. If you wired it differently please contact me and send me a picture, I’d love see other options as I didn’t take very good notes and had to kind of guess where everything was supposed to go. Either way, you’ll want to make sure to follow factory wiring and mounting locations as close as possible, and make sure the hose coming out of the pressure control module isn’t pinched or bent, as this will make it impossible to recalibrate the system.



    Also, the brown harness clips in to a factory spot too:



    Once everything is prepped, taped, mounted and secured, it’s time to put the seat back into the car. Angle the seat into the car headrest first until you’ve got the entire seat inside of the cabin, and then tilt the seat backward so you can access the wiring under the seat and plug it into the harnesses on the floor

    The harnesses on the floor appear as below:



    The black plug is where the pressure control module will plug into

    The green plug is for heated seats

    The red plug is for powering the seat (reclining, lumbar, etc)

    The yellow plug is for the seat’s airbag

    The green, red, and yellow plugs should all be the original B6 Recaro wiring – you shouldn’t have touched nor altered those in anyway. The only wiring that is different now is the harness that will plug into the black plug on the floor!

    The black harness coming from the B7 pressure plate will look somewhat like this:



    You’ll notice that there are three active posts on one side of the harness, and only two on the other side. You’ll want to make sure that the side with three active posts (the copper looking contact points) plugs into the harness on the floor along the side nearest the middle of your car, and the side with only two active posts plugs into the side facing the door jam. I did this incorrectly the first few times and got faulty wiring errors when reading the codes in VAG-COM.

    Once you’ve plugged it all in, it should look like this (only prettier, as I used a ton of electrical tape, haha)



    Before you go and bolt the seat back into place, let’s test everything and re-code the seats (if necessary) to make sure there aren’t any more changes that are needed. Personally, I had the plug in the wrong way, so I had to try it both ways before it finally worked

    Step 7: Checking Fault Codes & Applying the Basic Setting to calibrate the Pressure Control Module

    It is possible you wont need to clear any fault codes and the airbag light will have gone away by now, if you used the same pressure control plate that was previously installed in you car and the car was never turned on with the seat removed. If the car was turned on with the seat removed from the car, the airbag light will stay until it’s cleared through VAG-COM. Additionally, if the pressure control module came out of a different car, you will also need to clear the fault codes in VAG-COM and also re-calibrate it (apply the basic setting) before your car can recognize and use it.

    With everything plugged in, insert your Ross-Tech VAG-COM cable into your car and fire up the VCDS software. I do not know if hacked “eBay” VAG-COM cables will work for programming the airbag module, but I highly recommend using authentic Ross-Tech cables regardless – this is not a corner you want to cut, and the $349 purchase price of this cable is well worth it in the long run. A big thank you and a strong recommendation for Ross-Tech.

    Once you have VCDS open, go to Application 15 – Airbags. Check the fault codes – you’ll probably have a bunch of them. If one of them reads “01044 – Control Module Incorrectly Coded” be sure to go into your coding and reset the coding first. My airbag coding is set to: 0032607 which should be the same for pretty much any North America B7 Audi A4 WITHOUT rear side airbags. For a full set of coding instructions and what they mean, visit the Ross-Tech Wiki.

    Regardless, you’ll want to clear all of your codes before proceeding. If the airbag warning light goes away after you cleared your fault codes, great you can go ahead and bolt your seat back in place and you’re done!

    If not, we’ll need to apply the basic setting to it recalibrate it.

    To apply the basic setting, follow these instructions:

    Basic Setting

    Seat Occupied Recognition Control Module (J706)If the Seat Occupied Recognition Control Module (J706) or the seat itself have been replaced, the basic setting has to be performed.

    [Select]
    [15 - Airbags]
    [Security Access - 16]
    Enter 30475, to enable the basic setting.
    If you are having problems performing this security access, contact us.
    [Do it!]
    [Basic Settings - 04]
    Group 001
    [Go!]
    Activate the Basic Setting.
    [ON/OFF/Next]
    The reset has been performed.
    [Done, Go Back]
    [Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

    After applying the basic setting, go ahead and clear your codes one last time. The airbag light should now be gone permanently! At this point, pat yourself on the back and go on a nice long road trip to enjoy your super comfortable Recaro seats! You’ve done it!

    To be extra sure everything is working properly, sit in the passenger seat with the car running and buckle your seatbelt. The central display should now say “PASSENGER AIRBAG ON”



    Troubleshooting:

    If you’ve followed these steps to a T and are still having problems, here are my suggestions on problem areas to troubleshoot:

    * The black wiring harness that plugs into the floor: Try plugging it in the other way, experimenting with which side the three active contact points are on (facing the middle of the car or facing the door jam). It can physically be plugged in either way without problems, so this is easy to connect incorrectly. After plugging it in a different way, go through Step 7 (Coding & Recalibrating) again.
    * Follow all of the wiring to make sure there are no shorts or bad connections – it is likely that you may have had to cut a few wires to remove the wiring from the b7 seat if the wiring was really tangled – I know I did. If you cut any wires and re-attached them, double check all of those connections!
    * Check your coding – make sure that you aren’t getting a fault code for Incorrectly Coded and set everything back to factory
    * Make sure the pressure plate isn’t getting pinched anywhere, or that the wiring coming out of the pressure plate isn’t bent or getting pulled on before going through the bottom of the seat
    * If the passenger airbag is always on, even when someone isn’t sitting in it, it could be that the pressure control module isn’t lying flat, or the hydraulic hose coming out of it leading into the ballast is pinched. If the plate or its wiring is getting pinched or has too much pressure applied to it, you can’t calibrate it properly and the system won’t work right. To fix this check the pressure control plate is mounted securely and flat and make sure the wiring coming out of the plate is not getting pinched or caught on anything.
    * Make sure you’ve removed all of the old wiring you’re not using and that all of the pressure control module wiring is mounted to the bottom of the seat securely at the factory mounting points.

    Disclaimer: Any information in this post is purely for entertainment purposes only and I am no way liable for any damage you may incur to your car or your body. Any modifications are performed at your own risk. Obviously, the airbag system is a critical component to your car’s safety and can be quite costly to replace, please take the utmost care when altering anything to do with the airbag wiring system.
    Current: 08 R8 6MT, 14 Cayenne GTS, 98 Saleen XP8
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings jimrobbington's Avatar
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    Damn, dude, that is one hard core DIY!! Great job. That is some shit I would be scared to even mess with before this came along. You really know your shit!
    2021 Audi S4, P34 Intake

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings ElCapitan464's Avatar
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    very nice bud
    GONE: B7 S4

    GONE: B7 A4 stage 2+


    FRRG Southern Ring Member

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Quattro's Avatar
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    this doesnt work :P

    jk dood!

  6. #6
    Registered User Four Rings winston@podi.ca's Avatar
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    Thanks for the writeup.

    I've been trying to find a set of Recaros for the g/f B7 but only B6 sets come up. Didn't think of retrofitting the sensor to the Recaros to make them work.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings nnnick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Thanks for the writeup.

    I've been trying to find a set of Recaros for the g/f B7 but only B6 sets come up. Didn't think of retrofitting the sensor to the Recaros to make them work.
    I remember your previous post and that was when I learned Airbag Warning Light = No Airbags work...which motivated me to get off my butt and get this to work. Retrofitting the sensor wasn't too bad - had I played my cards right and taken them out of my prior b7 a4 seats it would have been really simple. Luckily I found a set of cloth b7 a4 seats for $50 that worked out quite well :)
    Current: 08 R8 6MT, 14 Cayenne GTS, 98 Saleen XP8
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings nnnick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimrobbington View Post
    Damn, dude, that is one hard core DIY!! Great job. That is some shit I would be scared to even mess with before this came along. You really know your shit!
    Took a lot of trial & error :) And help from a few friends! And also, a set of donor cloth b7 a4 seats that I didn't care if I messed up or not, haha :)

    Thanks all!
    Current: 08 R8 6MT, 14 Cayenne GTS, 98 Saleen XP8
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  9. #9
    Registered User Four Rings Matt@EuropaParts's Avatar
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    Great write up. I wish I could fix my airbag light (I have the opposite problem...B7 seats w/o pressure sensor in a B6...somehow I have an airbag light).

    Helpful hint too: In regards to the seat belt buckle bolt, my bolts were secured with red threadlocker. After 15 minutes of being unable to make any progress (both with a triple square and a pair of vice grips), I whacked the bolt with a roofing hammer, and that broke the bond. Then the bolts backed right out.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings nnnick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt@EuropaParts View Post
    Great write up. I wish I could fix my airbag light (I have the opposite problem...B7 seats w/o pressure sensor in a B6...somehow I have an airbag light).

    Helpful hint too: In regards to the seat belt buckle bolt, my bolts were secured with red threadlocker. After 15 minutes of being unable to make any progress (both with a triple square and a pair of vice grips), I whacked the bolt with a roofing hammer, and that broke the bond. Then the bolts backed right out.
    I will look around tomorrow and see if I have any of the B6 wiring (black airbag harness plug or seat belt buckle) from my Recaros if you want to try it out - let me know what parts might be helpful and I'll see what I kept.

    I actually bought my Ross-Tech VAG-COM cable from you guys for this project, really great transaction You guys even called to verify that I meant to order 2 cables instead of one (and I totally only wanted to order one so you really saved my arse there)
    Current: 08 R8 6MT, 14 Cayenne GTS, 98 Saleen XP8
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  11. #11
    Registered User Four Rings Matt@EuropaParts's Avatar
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    ^Good to hear, and thanks for the order! And yeah, haha, it stems from people accidentally hitting the wrong key and not realizing it. We've had more than a few orders where people have meant to order 2 fuel filters and accidentally ordered 22, so if something seems out of place, we just double check.

    And yeah, if you happened to have the entire fourth connector block (the black one with all the additional wiring), that would be a big help. My seats were missing the 1st and 4th blocks, but I rewired up the airbag connectors with repair wires and new plugs...so I'm at a loss as to why I'm getting an airbag light (and codes)

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings darin1274's Avatar
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    Glad my old seats could be of support to this DIY! LOL!!!
    ...step your shoe game up!

    2007 VW Passat Variant-Alpine Gray- 19" RS6's, Euro Turn Signal, HID's, VAG Mods, Neuspeed A3 springs, Dewipered

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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings koolade9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElCapitan464 View Post
    very nice bud
    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro View Post
    this doesnt work :P

    jk dood!
    Pressure-plate transplants 1 & 2 capitan, I need to get a pic of the underside of your seat as an example for people.

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt@EuropaParts View Post
    Great write up. I wish I could fix my airbag light (I have the opposite problem...B7 seats w/o pressure sensor in a B6...somehow I have an airbag light).

    Helpful hint too: In regards to the seat belt buckle bolt, my bolts were secured with red threadlocker. After 15 minutes of being unable to make any progress (both with a triple square and a pair of vice grips), I whacked the bolt with a roofing hammer, and that broke the bond. Then the bolts backed right out.
    Matt,

    I'm pretty familiar with your seats and what was taken out... I'll pm you and we can discuss it there.
    FRRG AZ Ring

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings jgride's Avatar
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    B7 Install w/B6 S4 Recaro's

    Thanks for the detailed chronology guys. I'll be working with OEMPlus on this install shortly. Will keep you posted how we do.
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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kubus's Avatar
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    Turns out my seats are B6 and not B7 seats as I thought. Threw and airbag light as soon as I started up the car. Damn.

    Pulled out my vagcom and scanned it

    Signal for seat occupied sensor front passenger side g128 010 open or short to plus mil on

    Fuck. Should have swapped in the bladder.

    Figured I can program it out with vagcom. Works. I'll post the settings later but don't waste your time with the bladder. It's unnecessary. So much extra work for nothing.

    Surprised no one else has done this.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings PNW Avant's Avatar
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    The bladder will either save your passenger in a wreck, or save your dashboard...it's not for nothing.

    Even if seats are from a b7 there is still work to be done to pair the new seats with the car, so an airbag light shouldn't be a surprise and is not necessarily indicative of b6 seats or non existent bladder.

    Lastly, b6 and b7 seats have cosmetic differences so this should not be a surprise either...
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    Veteran Member Four Rings Kubus's Avatar
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    Why? Now my airbag will go off regardless if there is a passenger in the seat. It's not like I disabled the airbag -> to kill my passenger. I just set it to open regardless of passenger or not

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings PNW Avant's Avatar
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    More likely to total your car then. If you get into a fender bender with only you in the drivers seat, the airbag will still blow through the dash and not just the wheel. Thats not cheap. And, the seat bags will blow too. There's a reason they went with a sensor in the b7.
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kubus's Avatar
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    Don't crash? Pick up a used dash for 100 bucks? Take advantage of my insurance?

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Avant View Post
    More likely to total your car then. If you get into a fender bender with only you in the drivers seat, the airbag will still blow through the dash and not just the wheel. Thats not cheap. And, the seat bags will blow too. There's a reason they went with a sensor in the b7.
    With the value of a B7 falling the way it is, a crash bad enough to deploy airbags will likely total it anyways.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kubus's Avatar
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    Good. I don't want it after a crash anyway

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings PNW Avant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kubus View Post
    Don't crash? Pick up a used dash for 100 bucks? Take advantage of my insurance?
    Buy car back? Sell a complete set of recaros for a good amount of money, without popped airbags?

    There's the right way to do it, and there are shortcuts. Your solution is a short-cut.
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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Mister W's Avatar
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    @ kubus. Canadian seat dont have the bladder, or not all of them. I retrofit b6 recaro and had to put a kind of circuit printed resistance instead. I bought a b7 seat in a scrap yard and transfer the sensor. I have a post somewhere about it. Now i have b7 recaro with the bladder and it throw a code. I had to change the airbag coding with vagcom. I made a thread on this too. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...With-seat-code
    PM me if you need more info.



    Last edited by Mister W; 09-30-2013 at 10:02 AM.
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  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings Axis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Avant View Post

    Lastly, b6 and b7 seats have cosmetic differences so this should not be a surprise either...
    Im curious to know the differences?
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  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kubus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axis View Post
    Im curious to know the differences?
    I'm curious too

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings Mister W's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kubus View Post
    I'm curious too
    rear seat headrest. (higher for B6). Maybe leather too, my black B6 Recaro seem more shinny with less texture in the leather than some other set i've seen.




    i have update the previous post i made with pictures and link if you need them.
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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kubus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mister W View Post
    rear seat headrest. (higher for B6). Maybe leather too, my black B6 Recaro seem more shinny with less texture in the leather than some other set i've seen.




    i have update the previous post i made with pictures and link if you need them.
    Thanks! My headrests are the big ones in the rear. Similar to the fronts. They reduce the visibility in the back window a bit but it's ok.

    Looks like were in the same boat with airbags deploying regardless of passenger.

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings PNW Avant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axis View Post
    Im curious to know the differences?
    Quote Originally Posted by Kubus View Post
    I'm curious too
    The hard seatback cover on the back of the B6 seats is shorter and does not wrap around the sides. The hard seatback cover on the B7 wraps around the sides, and goes up higher on the seatback, as well. I don't think this is unique to the S4 recaros, but rather a difference between all b6 and b7 seats.

    B7 headrests are slanted forward (front seats), whereas the B6 had full range of motion. Most people cut the piece of plastic in the headrest to allow the headrest to move like the B6 used to (i did).

    I didn't know about the rear seat differences, but that appears to be another! Looking back at the photos of my B6, those were indeed bigger than my current B7s.
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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings Mister W's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Avant View Post
    B7 headrests are slanted forward (front seats), whereas the B6 had full range of motion. Most people cut the piece of plastic in the headrest to allow the headrest to move like the B6 used to (i did).
    Not on all B7. Mine have full motion range. Maybe an option, maybe because in Canadian or maybe because it's 05.5/06 and they still have B6 left over.
    Canadian B7 dont have the bladder either under passenger seat.

    I'm curious, to those you did the Recaro swap, what is or was you airbag coding. I had to change mine when i put US Recaro.
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  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    I didn't have to change any airtbag coding with vagcom when I put mine in. I swapped the bladder over from my stock seats, installed them, cleared the airbag light and I was good to go. If you use a bladder from a car other than the one the seats are going into, I believe some vagcom magic is required to get it to play nice with the car.
    -Adam

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  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings PNW Avant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mister W View Post
    Not on all B7. Mine have full motion range. Maybe an option, maybe because in Canadian or maybe because it's 05.5/06 and they still have B6 left over.
    Canadian B7 dont have the bladder either under passenger seat.

    I'm curious, to those you did the Recaro swap, what is or was you airbag coding. I had to change mine when i put US Recaro.
    Could be because you've got canadian seats, or maybe it was just a split year thing. My 2007 seats came like this and I could not tilt them until modifying the inside of the headrest.



    Quote Originally Posted by Mister W View Post
    I'm curious, to those you did the Recaro swap, what is or was you airbag coding. I had to change mine when i put US Recaro.
    When I swapped, I didn't change the airbag coding. I only had to go through the bladder "pairing" process which is described in the "Nicks Car Blog" DIY.
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  32. #32
    Veteran Member Three Rings Kingzilla17's Avatar
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    Ce


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  33. #33
    Veteran Member Three Rings IbisB7stage2's Avatar
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    Fuck, I'm at my wits end. After spending HOURS swapping B6 recaros in, swapping the passenger occupancy bladder over, and installing 2 new mirrors, I have the following:


    Memory mirrors work flawlessly, and the fucking stupid seat doesnt respond to shit. How the hell do I make the seat move with the memory buttons? I can talk to the mem-seat controller on VCDS, and I can set 4 fucking different mirrors positions and recall them all with buttons 1-4, but the damn seat doesnt give a fuck. Any help? I'm 50+ hours into this, have done my wiring 3 times from scratch, i know its mechanically installed right.
    ~John
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  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by IbisB7stage2 View Post
    Fuck, I'm at my wits end. After spending HOURS swapping B6 recaros in, swapping the passenger occupancy bladder over, and installing 2 new mirrors, I have the following:


    Memory mirrors work flawlessly, and the fucking stupid seat doesnt respond to shit. How the hell do I make the seat move with the memory buttons? I can talk to the mem-seat controller on VCDS, and I can set 4 fucking different mirrors positions and recall them all with buttons 1-4, but the damn seat doesnt give a fuck. Any help? I'm 50+ hours into this, have done my wiring 3 times from scratch, i know its mechanically installed right.
    Did you code the CCM for memory seats? I think you have to do that if I recall.


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  35. #35
    Veteran Member Three Rings IbisB7stage2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbain2 View Post
    Did you code the CCM for memory seats? I think you have to do that if I recall.

    Yeah I believe so. In VCDS I went into the driver seat memory controller and and saved a value of 20771, which is what the instruction in vcds call for.
    ~John
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  36. #36
    Veteran Member Three Rings IbisB7stage2's Avatar
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    Oh wait, you might be talking about a different control module. I messed with the seat module, not central convenience or whatever CCM stands for

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  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by IbisB7stage2 View Post
    Oh wait, you might be talking about a different control module. I messed with the seat module, not central convenience or whatever CCM stands for

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Audizine Forum mobile app
    Yes. The CCM needs to be coded as well. I forget what block it is. I think 36?


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  38. #38
    Veteran Member Three Rings IbisB7stage2's Avatar
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    Made progress at last. turns out the Green-Black wire that I am supposed to splice into was hard to find, and I accidentally picked a Black-Green wire by mistake. damn are they similar looking though lol.

    Seats are now doing memory function, but I also have a fault for something about "CAN-BUS one-wire operation" for my driver seat, so perhaps one of my wire taps didn't make a good connection.
    ~John
    B7 A4 quattro 6spd, k04 w/ meth, PSS9 coils, S4 recaros, basically everything else
    C5 S6 Avant 6spd

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings PNW Avant's Avatar
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    DIY: Retrofitting B6 S4 Recaro Seats into a B7 A4 (w Pressure Plate Swap)

    I recall having some very frustrating performance from the memory seats after my swap of memory parts into a non-memory car. Everything worked fine except the seat back tilt could not remember its memory position no matter what. I replaced the memory module under the seat thinking that would work. Instead it turns out you may need to go into the memory module via vagcom and force the module to “forget” the previous car / previous keys. Once clearing things, all was well.

    Sounds like you got it all working but thought I would drop that here.

    If I remember correctly, black / green is K-line which should be required to communicate with the module. My swap was b7 / b7 so perhaps different.


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  40. #40
    Active Member One Ring
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    It may be slightly off topic, but I wanted to confirm something I was slightly unsure of.

    I did some searching to see if a pair of b6 sedan recaros would bolt right into a b7 avant. I couldn’t find a super clear answer, but have just completed the swap and everything fit just perfect, no problems at all.

    I followed the Nicks car blog instructional. There were a few moments that i wanted to panic doing the pressure plate swap/wiring but I kept my cool and it all worked out.

    So just confirming, B6 sedan recaros with the split back seat ARE a direct bolt in on my 2007 a4 avant

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