Amp Remote Wire?

[biketsai]

Ive had the amp remote wire hooked up the 75x post for the past 2 years without knowing it was messing stuff underneath. Long story short- it created a lot of heat on the 75x post and affected the other connectors on that post. I currently have the blue remote wire coming from the amp disconnected, where can I connect this? I know it only needs a little power or something like that. Ive heard of people connecting it to the back of their radios (I have the stock symphony) but I am not sure which wire that is. Any help would be great.

Chris

Edit: Just to let yall know, the heat generated has caused my blinkers, A/C, and windshield wipers to stop working at one point.

[somebody5788]

Ive had the amp remote wire hooked up the 75x post for the past 2 years without knowing it was messing stuff underneath. Long story short- it created a lot of heat on the 75x post and affected the other connectors on that post. I currently have the blue remote wire coming from the amp disconnected, where can I connect this? I know it only needs a little power or something like that. Ive heard of people connecting it to the back of their radios (I have the stock symphony) but I am not sure which wire that is. Any help would be great.

Chris

Wait... I think I'm doing the same thing....... Same question he asked! lol

[spcmky]

Do you still have the rear deck speakers with the small amp connected to it? The white wire connected to the small amp is a 12v power wire that can be used for your amp. It connects to stock radio and only has power when the radio is on.

[biketsai]

I do have the original rear deck speakers. They are the non-bose type. Are those the same that you are referring to?

Chris

[walky_talky20]

Chris, that remote wire should *not* be pulling enough power to disrupt anything on the 75x post. If it is pulling that much power, you are going to have even worse problems if you connect it directly to the symphony head unit, or the white wire on the rear deck speakers. Both of those locations are much smaller wire and are not meant for high current draw. The 75x post is...to a point. If you are pulling enough power to make problems at the 75x post, you will likely fry the remote output circuitry of the symphony deck, or melt the wire...or both.

The easy solution to this is to clean up the connections on the 75x post, and put a fuse on your remote wire. 2 amp ought to be plenty. This will protect the 75x post from too high of current draw. Make sure the connection is clean and good at the post. Any resistance there (due to a corroded or loose connection) will certainly create heat during operation. Install the fuse near the 75x post for the best protection. If that 2 amp fuse blows, you've got problems. A remote wire shouldn't pull more than 500ma (.5 amps) in most cases.

[zrowcool]

get a fuse tap and connect it to a switched fuse in the fuse box. theres 2 types of fuse taps, either one will work just fine for what you want.
They're only a couple bucks a piece. Also if your remote wire is causing that much heat, it is either not securely connected or its shorted somewhere. that wire shouldnt carry more than 1amp of current tops and that definitely wont cause it to get hot. if its shorted to ground though, it can get hot enough to melt the insulation.

[spcmky]

If you have the non Bose speakers there should be a little blue connector on the rear driver side speaker. If you tap the white wire you can use that as the remote for your amp.

[biketsai]

If you have the non Bose speakers there should be a little blue connector on the rear driver side speaker. If you tap the white wire you can use that as the remote for your amp.

I will do that, hopefully that shouldnt cause any issues with heat?

[biketsai]

Ok, so I purchased an inline fuse setup


Will it work if I put in a 20amp fuse and connect one end to the remote wire, and the other end to the 75x post?

Thanks,
Chris

[Euromike]

Agreed wth walky.

That wire is for specifically what its called, telling the amp when the power in your vehicle is on, so the amp can then draw power from your main power lines, which i assume goto your battery.
If that wire is drawing that much power, i would check for a short to ground somewhere. That wire should be drawing less voltage than a led lightbulb.

[Euromike]

And your 20 amp fuse setup is a great idea. should work fine.

[biketsai]

I think I realize what caused the issue before. At one point the original inline fuse setup got disconnected, and so I connected the remote wire straight to the post with just the wire wrapped around the post. Im guessing that the odd connection maybe caused a short or something like that?

[lowandslow4now]

I am not sure if this helps but not too long ago I put a meter up to 75X and there is constant power to it whether the car is on or off. I checked the other posts down there and there is one that only comes on after the key is switched to the on position. I found this looking for a power source for my Wideband gauge.

[walky_talky20]

Chris, I would recommend that you use a 5amp fuse for that remote wire. That would be safer. There is no need for it to pull anywhere near 20 amps. Smaller fuse for better protection.

The 75x post is indeed switched off with the key. It is only hot in the ON position. It is off in the OFF, ACC, and START positions. There is also another circuit in our cars called the 15 circuit, which is hot in ON *and* START. That way your music isn't interrupted if you want to start the engine. There is no post for the 15 circuit, you'd have to tap a fuse to get it.

[Cybersombosis]

No offense to anyone but seriously... tap into the white wire coming out of the connector on the driver's side rear speaker. Here is a post that I helped someone with, http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post5267855. It's the same white wire on the back of the Symphony head unit labeled "remote" in the harness. This wire is used specifically for an amp remote when your stereo is turned on or off, with the ignition on or off with or without your key in the ignition. I don't know if you know this or not but our stereos have the ability to operate without the key in the ignition. The 75X post was not designed for this purpose. Do you really want power going to your amp even if the stereo is off when the car is running? In addition to that, if you have the engine off and you want to listen to your stereo, you will be listening to it without your amp as the 75X post only activates when the ignition is turned on. Do yourself a favor and hook it up the way it was meant to; to the white wire in the back. Sorry if I offended anyone.

Doug

[DGAFxxx]

I tapped into the trunk, onto one of the wires that goes to the CD changer connector.

[biketsai]

No offense to anyone but seriously... tap into the white wire coming out of the connector on the driver's side rear speaker. Here is a post that I helped someone with, http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post5267855. It's the same white wire on the back of the Symphony head unit labeled "remote" in the harness. This wire is used specifically for an amp remote when your stereo is turned on or off, with the ignition on or off with or without your key in the ignition. I don't know if you know this or not but our stereos have the ability to operate without the key in the ignition. The 75X post was not designed for this purpose. Do you really want power going to your amp even if the stereo is off when the car is running? In addition to that, if you have the engine off and you want to listen to your stereo, you will be listening to it without your amp as the 75X post only activates when the ignition is turned on. Do yourself a favor and hook it up the way it was meant to; to the white wire in the back. Sorry if I offended anyone.

Doug

I checked it out, and just decided it to do it this way. Easily found the white wire on the speaker. Amp turns on/off according to if the radio is on/off. Hope I wont have any issues here. I just cut open the insulation and wrapped the remote wire onto this cable.