A6 brake bleed

[missinganova]

My pedal is a little soft and the pads front and back are thick; needs to be bled.

Any special bleeding procedure or the typical farthest first method?

Thanks...

[Vinchenzo51]

curious as well, anyone on this?

[Vinchenzo51]

had to dig this thread back up, i just ordered new rotors, pads, and stainless steel lines, ill be doing this next week and just want to make sure bleeding the brakes is just like any other car

i know sometimes theres special tricks to these audis... or is it straight forward

[guyb]

http://www.2carpros.com/makes/audi/a6.htm check out the bottom Q & A, did a quick Google search out of curiosity and found that. I do not know tons about brake systems though so do not take my word as gold, I was just curious for my own reference as well.

[Deep6ed]

Back right, Back left, Front Right, Front Left.
Use a pressure bleeder to 13-15psi. Easy mode.

[Vinchenzo51]

i've read here and there i may need a VAG-COM for something.... which i don't have so i'm hoping i don't need it

any confirmation on this

[anthony911]

Back right, Back left, Front Right, Front Left.
Use a pressure bleeder to 13-15psi. Easy mode.

X2 did mine on Saturday

On a side note C5 A6 always had a pretty low profile brake pedal. It is normal as far as the C5 A6 is concerned for the braking to start happening a little lower than other cars.

On my Nissan 240sx I just tap my brake and the car stops.
On my Mazda 3 same thing
On my Audi I have to literally bring down the pedal about an inch before I start to feel my car stop

[dcaron9999]

Sorry to revive an old thread. Just did a full brake job (rotors + pads swapped, pad-caliper contact points cleaned and lubricated, guide pins lubricated) on my automatic 2005 allroad this weekend, using a Motive brake bleeder. Im not satisfied with pedal feal, and would like firmer pedal.

I bled the brakes 1 week prior to the full brake job, and after the brake job this week-end, using traditional method both times.

Bentley manual says to use the RF, LF, RR, LR bleeding sequence, brake pedal depressed, and pressure bleeder pumped to 29PSI.

I used the traditional method (RR, LR, RF, LF), with 15 PSI the first time, and 25 PSI the second time, no brake pedal prop used. Never ran out of liquid during the process.

The second time, I let almost a liter of fluid pass through system. Used 25 PSI , Noticed very few air bubbles at first, but let the bleeding go for about 2 minutes per wheel.

Also bedded my brakes after bleeding. I have more stopping power now, but still looking for firmer pedal. Perhaps this is the default behavior of the C5 A6 platform, which Im new to (owner since 2 months), and comparing to my other euro car (2002 BMW 330xi) which brakes on a dime, and has a firm pedal).

I don’t own a Ross-Tech VCDS tool yet, but maybe I should go and engage ABS a few times on a snowy parking lot, then bleed again .

Any comments to help firm up the pedal? Should I trust the Bentley manual bleeding sequence?

[dcaron9999]

My new brakes are akebonos euro pads and zimmerman coated rotors. I bled my brakes again, using Bentley Publisher procedure this time. (29 psi from pressure bleeder ,pumped and held brake pedal with prop, bled from closest wheel to furthest wheel). Saw some tiny bubbles escape the calipers. Went for another test drive, and to bed the brakes again. Pedal is slighty firmer , brakes smoother, and have more bite . I still find that the pedal travel is a bit excessive.

[dcaron9999]

I think I actually solved my problem. The brake booster pushrod (sitting behind the brake pedal) needed a little adjustment, to allow it to exert longer stroke into brake booster. My allroad now stops after 1.5 inch pedal travel and what seems like less pedal effort.

Step #20 on this post was the solution. No need to dismount/dismantle anything ...
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...er-removal-DIY