Anybody with a subwoofer in their audi A4?

[tejib]

Guys,

I have an Audi a4 and thinking of putting a 15" Inphase subwoofer with a IPA900 Watt amplifier. This system was taken out of my old VW GOLF GTI. I am thinking
of putting this in my Audi A4 but was told by someone it will not sound as good as the boot in the A4 is enclosed thus you would not hear it as well as you would in the VW GTI because it was a hatchback, Is this true? is anyone aware of this issue?

I currently have the standard Bose speakers with the standard Bose sub woofer but this doesn't provide enough bass.

[hercfe]

it will still hit, but the clarity will be compromised. your best bet would be to replace the bose door speakers with a good set of 5 ways, then bridge the amp to those.

[tejib]

it will still hit, but the clarity will be compromised. your best bet would be to replace the bose door speakers with a good set of 5 ways, then bridge the amp to those.

Cheers for the reply, you mention clarity will be compromised? is that of the subwoofer or bose speakers

[rxer311]

Remove your stock sub so air can freely move from your trunk to your cabin.

[mr shickadance]

Guys,

I have an Audi a4 and thinking of putting a 15" Inphase subwoofer with a IPA900 Watt amplifier. This system was taken out of my old VW GOLF GTI. I am thinking
of putting this in my Audi A4 but was told by someone it will not sound as good as the boot in the A4 is enclosed thus you would not hear it as well as you would in the VW GTI because it was a hatchback, Is this true? is anyone aware of this issue?

I currently have the standard Bose speakers with the standard Bose sub woofer but this doesn't provide enough bass.

just sayen, if you are an extreme audiophile then yes obviously there will be sound differences between the golf and the a4....then again if you were an extreme audiophile chances are you would not be rockin a 15'' sub as they produce more thump but with less accuracy and not a tight crisp sounding bass if you put it in chances are you wont be able to notice the difference because the difference from going with the bose stock 8'' sub to a massive 15'' will be so much more noticable you wont hear the difference between the golf and a4 trunk styles

be very careful when you are installing the amp and sub tho as you are running the bose set up chances are you will tap a speaker line that has a high power current going through it....you can do this and be fine but you will have to turn the gain setting on your amp allllllll the way down, and then start from the bottom and work yourself up to a bass you are happy with and will not blow out your sub

[Greedo]

Open space vs. enclosed space? I think that's self-explanatory.

[AudiTFSI3o3]

I have bose with JBL amp/sub. it bumps.. but stock headunit really restricts the power of it.

[A4B7Quattro]

Open space vs. enclosed space? I think that's self-explanatory.

x2 lol

[Audi_509]

The bass would be louder in a hatchback (ex gti) compared to a enclosed trunk (jetta). Unless you push more power.

You can try this or just lower your back seats.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...location...who

[Rotond0000]

definatley true, i just went from an a4 to a jeep with the same exact system and its sooo much louder now!

[AudiTFSI3o3]

definatley true, i just went from an a4 to a jeep with the same exact system and its sooo much louder now!

haha i went from my setup in a GX470 to my car now. boohoo

[Erocko]

Yeah, this made a pretty noticeable difference in my car. It's like a giant port. It's definitely different than a hatch. I had a JL 12w6 in my Integra and that was pretty loud. I do like what I have in the Audi now, other than the never-ending sources of rattling in the bastard.

Remove your stock sub so air can freely move from your trunk to your cabin.

[WOLFMANN]

Everyone will have their own opinion on the best sound, best products, and the best way to add to a stock system. Historically, 15" subs do not provide the cleanest and most precise bass. Tens or twelves usually sound the best. If you are going to add to the stock system without an aftermarket head unit I would recommend either the JL Audio Clean Sweep (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?page_id=94) or the Alpine system (http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pxe-h660). Both these systems are specifically designed to allow for addition to factory systems.

If you stick to the main audio brands you really can not go wrong, it is just a matter of how much you want to spend and preference of brand. One, high quality, well powered (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=483) ten inch woofer (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=5) would provide a very good bass addition and take up a lot less space than a 15.

My two sense. Good luck!

[davis449]

Everyone will have their own opinion on the best sound, best products, and the best way to add to a stock system. Historically, 15" subs do not provide the cleanest and most precise bass. Tens or twelves usually sound the best. If you are going to add to the stock system without an aftermarket head unit I would recommend either the JL Audio Clean Sweep (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?page_id=94) or the Alpine system (http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pxe-h660). Both these systems are specifically designed to allow for addition to factory systems.

If you stick to the main audio brands you really can not go wrong, it is just a matter of how much you want to spend and preference of brand. One, high quality, well powered (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=483) ten inch woofer (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=5) would provide a very good bass addition and take up a lot less space than a 15.

My two sense. Good luck!

This^. 15's aren't very accurate. I would go with a moderately powered 12 or a high powered 10 for a trunk setup.

[rxer311]

Or you can try one of these...
http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_161L...ray.html?cc=02

It is not a "sound processor" per se but it does sum all of your signals and produces a high voltage preout for your amps. Its a very high quality line output coverter. I will be doing this soon with my non-bose system. It won't give you the EQ abilities of a cleansweep or the alpine unit but audiocontrol also makes bass restorers and EQs that can be used with the LC6i if you are an audiophile and want to tweek your system.

[tejib]

just sayen, if you are an extreme audiophile then yes obviously there will be sound differences between the golf and the a4....then again if you were an extreme audiophile chances are you would not be rockin a 15'' sub as they produce more thump but with less accuracy and not a tight crisp sounding bass if you put it in chances are you wont be able to notice the difference because the difference from going with the bose stock 8'' sub to a massive 15'' will be so much more noticable you wont hear the difference between the golf and a4 trunk styles

be very careful when you are installing the amp and sub tho as you are running the bose set up chances are you will tap a speaker line that has a high power current going through it....you can do this and be fine but you will have to turn the gain setting on your amp allllllll the way down, and then start from the bottom and work yourself up to a bass you are happy with and will not blow out your sub

Hmmmm,

Well here's an update I took my Inphase Sub and Amp plus wiring etc to caraudiocentre. The engineer said no problem will fit it but you may need some hi/low gain wire (something like that, am not very technical so not sure what he meant but said okay) after looking at the amp he said oh you wont need the hi/low gain wire because the amp I had already had some sort of feature or wire with it that will do the job probably he said. So anyway he start fitting the sub amp and wiring it all up.

After around 1hr 30mins he's finished. He then leaves the boot open and walks upto the driverside door, turns on the car and cranks up the volume quite high. My fav dubstep track was the first one to play and the subwoofer was working fine and kicking out for about 10 seconds and the sub just stops kicking out. My first thought was "OH FUCK" lol, The engineer was baffled himself as to what had happened. He checked the wiring again and amp to make sure a loose connection was not the problem.

He could not find the cause of the issue, he then says maybe you need the hi/low gain wire thingy. He gets one of them out of the shop and fits it to the amp but still the sub is not working. I feared the worst and asked is it blown but he says no he cant smell anything because normally there would be abit of smoke and a burnt smell. He then removes the sub out of the enclosure and could not find any fault and says its likely the coil is messed up and would need to be re soldered because of a loose connection but that was impossible to do and the sub was now useless.

I was really annoyed because I kept feeling that it was his fault, maybe he turned the volume to hi or didnt use the hi/low wire earlier before he turned the unit on and blasted the volume. I then paid him for the install and he said get another 15" sub and he would fit it into the enclosure for free.

I have now ordered a new 15" sub because it will fit in the box that I have nicely. My only worry is that it might mess up again. Any thoughts on what could have caused the problem and what to do? should I go back and give him a black eye haha

Cheers ;-)

[WOLFMANN]

Hmmmm,

Well here's an update I took my Inphase Sub and Amp plus wiring etc to caraudiocentre. The engineer said no problem will fit it but you may need some hi/low gain wire (something like that, am not very technical so not sure what he meant but said okay) after looking at the amp he said oh you wont need the hi/low gain wire because the amp I had already had some sort of feature or wire with it that will do the job probably he said. So anyway he start fitting the sub amp and wiring it all up.

After around 1hr 30mins he's finished. He then leaves the boot open and walks upto the driverside door, turns on the car and cranks up the volume quite high. My fav dubstep track was the first one to play and the subwoofer was working fine and kicking out for about 10 seconds and the sub just stops kicking out. My first thought was "OH FUCK" lol, The engineer was baffled himself as to what had happened. He checked the wiring again and amp to make sure a loose connection was not the problem.

He could not find the cause of the issue, he then says maybe you need the hi/low gain wire thingy. He gets one of them out of the shop and fits it to the amp but still the sub is not working. I feared the worst and asked is it blown but he says no he cant smell anything because normally there would be abit of smoke and a burnt smell. He then removes the sub out of the enclosure and could not find any fault and says its likely the coil is messed up and would need to be re soldered because of a loose connection but that was impossible to do and the sub was now useless.

I was really annoyed because I kept feeling that it was his fault, maybe he turned the volume to hi or didnt use the hi/low wire earlier before he turned the unit on and blasted the volume. I then paid him for the install and he said get another 15" sub and he would fit it into the enclosure for free.

I have now ordered a new 15" sub because it will fit in the box that I have nicely. My only worry is that it might mess up again. Any thoughts on what could have caused the problem and what to do? should I go back and give him a black eye haha

Cheers ;-)

Without hearing more on HOW your installer actually installed the amp, it is hard to say. Did he check the battery wire fuse? Did he check the fuses on the amp itself? Did he install a fuse on the remote wire? Was the amp turning on? Where did he draw the remote power from? If he branched off another accessory, that fuse could have been blown. How big of power wire was used? Where was the ground secured, and how? If the ground was not installed in a good spot and well secured, this can also cause problems.

I am not familiar with this hi/low gain wire. I have installed many stereos and have never heard of this. If he was a good installed he should have just grabbed any box they had on the floor to test the amp. I find it suspicious he was so quick to replace your sub. He should have been able to put an ohm meter on the terminals and tell immediately if it was blown. I would probably find a new installer.

Good luck, cheers!

[Audi_509]

Without hearing more on HOW your installer actually installed the amp, it is hard to say. Did he check the battery wire fuse? Did he check the fuses on the amp itself? Did he install a fuse on the remote wire? Was the amp turning on? Where did he draw the remote power from? If he branched off another accessory, that fuse could have been blown. How big of power wire was used? Where was the ground secured, and how? If the ground was not installed in a good spot and well secured, this can also cause problems.

I am not familiar with this hi/low gain wire. I have installed many stereos and have never heard of this. If he was a good installed he should have just grabbed any box they had on the floor to test the amp. I find it suspicious he was so quick to replace your sub. He should have been able to put an ohm meter on the terminals and tell immediately if it was blown. I would probably find a new installer.

Good luck, cheers!

I agree, more information is needed.

[mr shickadance]

Hmmmm,

Well here's an update I took my Inphase Sub and Amp plus wiring etc to caraudiocentre. The engineer said no problem will fit it but you may need some hi/low gain wire (something like that, am not very technical so not sure what he meant but said okay) after looking at the amp he said oh you wont need the hi/low gain wire because the amp I had already had some sort of feature or wire with it that will do the job probably he said. So anyway he start fitting the sub amp and wiring it all up.

After around 1hr 30mins he's finished. He then leaves the boot open and walks upto the driverside door, turns on the car and cranks up the volume quite high. My fav dubstep track was the first one to play and the subwoofer was working fine and kicking out for about 10 seconds and the sub just stops kicking out. My first thought was "OH FUCK" lol, The engineer was baffled himself as to what had happened. He checked the wiring again and amp to make sure a loose connection was not the problem.

He could not find the cause of the issue, he then says maybe you need the hi/low gain wire thingy. He gets one of them out of the shop and fits it to the amp but still the sub is not working. I feared the worst and asked is it blown but he says no he cant smell anything because normally there would be abit of smoke and a burnt smell. He then removes the sub out of the enclosure and could not find any fault and says its likely the coil is messed up and would need to be re soldered because of a loose connection but that was impossible to do and the sub was now useless.

I was really annoyed because I kept feeling that it was his fault, maybe he turned the volume to hi or didnt use the hi/low wire earlier before he turned the unit on and blasted the volume. I then paid him for the install and he said get another 15" sub and he would fit it into the enclosure for free.

I have now ordered a new 15" sub because it will fit in the box that I have nicely. My only worry is that it might mess up again. Any thoughts on what could have caused the problem and what to do? should I go back and give him a black eye haha

Cheers ;-)

hi/lo gain wire is not so much wire but a device that converts a high current wire to a low current wire.....stinger makes single high/low gain converters for around 20-30 a piece per speaker, JL audio makes a clean sweep device that does like 5-7 speakers and costs around 200 imo you only need the stinger one IF and ONLY IF your amp doen't already have a highlow current converter built in

im not familiar with inphase my specialty is pioneer alpin and JL since thats what i rock but for my set up i bought a stinger hi/low converter then i returned it because my pioneer premier amp already came with one....look on ur amp there should be a swtich that says input :high or low and a switch similar to one you would find on a childs toy to turn it on or off.....

your installer should have selected high current, if he didn;t what could be happening is your amp has an automatic cut off where if it recieves a high current and then sends an even higher current (thus an amplifier) it can shock it's system into a shut down mode good amps have this feature because instead of blowing fuses and stuff it just shuts off

my recommendation is make sure ur have ur amp calibrated right and turn the gain alllllllll the way down just in case.....play a song that has a wide variety of bass not just one solid thump.....turn the gain up slightly until you can feel the beat just a little.....then sit in the drivers seat and have someone fool around with your filter it should be the other knob and calibrate that to where you want ur sub to hit and where u want your rear speakers to do the rest once you have that calibrated to ur liking play with the gain until you get a reasonable bass level that you are satisfied with

sorry for the not so professional typing but its late and i have had a pretty long day

my .02$

[tejib]

Without hearing more on HOW your installer actually installed the amp, it is hard to say. Did he check the battery wire fuse? Did he check the fuses on the amp itself? Did he install a fuse on the remote wire? Was the amp turning on? Where did he draw the remote power from? If he branched off another accessory, that fuse could have been blown. How big of power wire was used? Where was the ground secured, and how? If the ground was not installed in a good spot and well secured, this can also cause problems.

I am not familiar with this hi/low gain wire. I have installed many stereos and have never heard of this. If he was a good installed he should have just grabbed any box they had on the floor to test the amp. I find it suspicious he was so quick to replace your sub. He should have been able to put an ohm meter on the terminals and tell immediately if it was blown. I would probably find a new installer.

Good luck, cheers!

Thanks for the reply guys!

The installer did get another sub from the store and connected this to the system and it worked fine, it was my sub that wasn't kicking out. I wish I could answer all your questions but frankly am crap when it comes to DIY like this, am the idiot that pays people lots of money but if I tried could probably do it myself with abit of practise. When I had my golf these guys did the install and it was fine. I should get my new sub tomorrow and will let you guys know what happens. I will tell him to turn the gain down if he hasn't already!