Intake cam bearing cap torque specs

[MOtown A4]

Getting ready to replace my cam chain tensioner tomorrow after work. i've read through the passatworld DIY and a couple other threads amongst the 6 pages of threads searched and i have 2-3 different figures as the torque specs for the intake cam bearing caps. one thread said just over 7ft/lbs, another said 10ft/lbs, and i believe the passatworld DIY says 10nM. could someone please point me in the right direction?

[revolution337]

edit:

[MOtown A4]

that says its for the cylinder head cover though. would that be another name for valve cover? i'm looking for the specs for the 4 individual caps on the intake cam. i apologize if i'm confused, could someone confirm this?

[revolution337]

your sources confused ft/lbs with Nm

[MOtown A4]

heres the link for the DIY i was planning on using
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=215732
also, will i have to mess with the cam position sensor? i have 25nM for the cam position sensor rotor ring to the camshaft. can someone please translate that figure to ft/lbs or confirm whether i have to mess with it or not?

[MOtown A4]

thank you, so 7ft./lbs for the bearing caps for sure?

[revolution337]

thank you, so 7ft./lbs for the bearing caps for sure?

thats what bentley says.

[MOtown A4]

thats what bentley says.

thank you!

[marlboro]

Does Bentley say the cam bearing caps bolts have to be replaced when the cams are taken out or not?

And another question - when my mechanic replaced the cam chain tensioner awhile ago, he tightened those bolts more than the spec because he didn't have a torque wrench at the time. The car has been running like that for sometime now. I'm doing the VC gasket at the moment and the cover is open. Do you suggest to back out those bolts and re-tighten to 10Nm now or leave as they are, if the car has been running like that already?

[BaseDrifter]

Your mechanic didn't have a torque wrench? Who does internal engine work without a proper torque wrench?

Aren't you removing the caps to replace the tensioner again anyways? And no, you do not need to replace the cap bolts.

[marlboro]

Your mechanic didn't have a torque wrench? Who does internal engine work without a proper torque wrench?

Aren't you removing the caps to replace the tensioner again anyways? And no, you do not need to replace the cap bolts.

He had to do a rush job afterhours to get the car going but that was sometime ago. And some mechanics are very accurate with the torques just by hand.

I'm not replacing the tensioner again. Just the valve cover gasket and was wondering if I should re-torque the bolts to spec or leave as it is, if it's working.

[BaseDrifter]

Ah, I didn't see that you started this thread back in 2010. If the car has been running for 4 years, I wouldn't touch them.

Bang out the valve cover gasket and seal 'er up.

[marlboro]

Ah, I didn't see that you started this thread back in 2010. If the car has been running for 4 years, I wouldn't touch them.

Bang out the valve cover gasket and seal 'er up.

Hey, I didn't start the thread. I was searching for the torque specs of the bolts and came across this thread. Just decided to ask in the same thread instead of starting a new one.

[BaseDrifter]

Well..both of your names start with M! :) My bad.

Like I said, if the car has been running for awhile I wouldn't bother with the cam caps again. And while there are many mechanics who know what 7 ft lbs feels like, there are many who don't. I always trust a tool over a human for something as precise as the torque on a bearing cap.

[GrapeBandit]

in order to get 7ft lbs on a torque wrench, it better be a quality one. thats way too little pressure for cheap torque wrenches to get accurate. with that being said, I never tq my cam caps down and never had issues. I know some will say that important because its an internal engine piece, but to each is own. main crank caps, rod bolts, flywheel bolts etc, I will tq.

lmk ask you this, do you tq your intake manifold too? lol

[BaseDrifter]

Are you asking me? If so the answer is yes, I torque down every bolt to spec that I can reach with a torque wrench. It helps that nearly every bolt that goes into aluminum gets torqued to 7 ft lbs on the top of the engine, though there are a few exceptions.

[GrapeBandit]

im asking everyone...lol...do you torque you throttle body? that goes into aluminum too

[BaseDrifter]

Yep, sure do, pretty sure it's 7 ft lbs.

[GrapeBandit]

Yep, sure do, pretty sure it's 7 ft lbs.

do you mid sharing what mind of tq wrench you have

[BaseDrifter]

A Craftsman 250 inch pound 3/8" drive torque wrench.

[GrapeBandit]

A Craftsman 250 inch pound 3/8" drive torque wrench.

not bad, but I wouldnt use that to tq anytbing thats important. craftsman is not what it used to be. all their stuff is cheap chinese made now a days. lol

I dont even buy craftsman anymore, I break all their stuff. seems the same quality as harbor freight, just with a higher markup

[BaseDrifter]

They've served me well for the last 8 years, I've got 3 of their wrenches at different spec ranges. For more serious internal engine work I would get a higher quality wrench.

[GrapeBandit]

They've served me well for the last 8 years, I've got 3 of their wrenches at different spec ranges. For more serious internal engine work I would get a higher quality wrench.

you might be safe if its from 8yrs ago. im sure the quality is better than one that they have on theor shelves now.
yea, for internal engine work I use snap-on. have mac tools one also