review: Okada Plasma Direct coilpacks vs. new OEM revision D coilpacks

[[email protected]]

I do plan to put the car on the dyno to show if there are any gains from running the Plasma CP so please don't ask as this test is coming.







I blew up 5 rev.R coilpacks (CP) and now run a new set of the new rev. D CP. I have been getting misfires when running more than 18psi of boost and I am able to consistently reproduce the issue on the street. Trying to hit 25psi made the ran shake like a washing machine, I get a blinking CEL and if I back off the boost the car runs fine and the CP are still working. While I call the symptom a misfire we believe it is the spark blowing out.

The last time I encountered this situation I replaced the rev. R CP with 4 red top CP from a B6 3.0v6 and took the wagon for a drive. When I got into boost the car would misfire and hesitate as if it is running out of breath, I tried to do 3 pulls and the car wouldn't get into boost. I pop out the red top CP and replace them with the rev. R and the car ran great and held 22psi of boost as expected. This test proved that there is a difference between the red top and black CP.

This weekend on the way to Audiexpo I did a few pulls on the highway and reproduced the symptoms as expected, but I found the more I pushed the car the less boost it would take to make it misfire. Started at 18psi, then dropped to 16psi and then the threshold settled down at 15psi. I'm guessing the OEM CP heating up too much is the issue for this.

Today I had the Okada Plasma CP installed and I am running the bolt down version instead of the push in style CP. Okada tells me that the bolt down version makes 30% more spark than the push down version and this is reflected with a small increase in price.

The Okada CP does not seat down perfectly as the rubber end that goes over the spark plug is a bit too long. So we took off a bit of the end, installed the supplied gasket and bolted them down.

I fired up the car and it idled as I expected and took it for a drive back to the US to see how the car would react. So I set the boost to 18psi, went WOT and expected the car to misfire and was very surprised that it did not. I did 3 more pulls and the car felt solid, gauge registered 18psi and rock steady 12AFR.

I turned up the boost to 20psi and got the same result, turned the boost to 25psi and the car ran without any problems. A solid 12AFR was being registered for all the pulls.

Conclusion: The Okada CP works as advertised.

They state that their product makes more spark and on this first direct swap out test it is true, just how much more output I am getting I have no idea but I do know that the misfiring/spark blow out issue is now gone.

Okada website is here: http://www.okadaprojects.com/usa/products_direct.htm

If you are interested in purchasing a set please let me know.

[S4King]

Big Baller.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

How old are your coilpacks? So odd you were having issues. I have R coilpacks in my car and have ran 28psi everyday all day with my 30r and 26psi with my 5857 and once the new fuel pump is in, back up to 28 and maybe even higher it will go. I did do a test one day with a set of old coils my roommate took out of his car (nothing wrong with them in his, he just decided to replace with the bolt down kind). My car wouldn't go in to boost with them, it broke up and bucked, I put mine back in and boosted just fine. I guess what I am getting at is you could most likely put another set of stock coils in and run just fine as well since everyone else is running mid to high 20s with them up to Clint running 31psi with his HTA 35r.

It would be interesting to see a new set of oem coils compared to these new coils you just put in for dyno stuff.

[davyboi]

Are those expensive?

[[email protected]]

Bro... did you read the whole post?

I literally popped all 5 of my rev. R coilpacks in half within 24 hours. I had to get the car towed and bought 6 brand new red. D from the dealer ship and put 4 of them in the car.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Very expensive.

Yes I read your post. What I said is there are plenty of high horsepower cars all running on stock coils, what revision they have, I have no idea, I personally have R. Weird you have a problem because your car is no different than the rest in the mods department.

[[email protected]]

I dunno... maybe my car is cursed

My friend installed a bolt down set in his Mk4 and during dyno tuning Bob told me he could throw tons of timing at it and the car would just keep making more power.

Bob stopped at 430whp (94 octane + meth) and said he could have easily kept going.

[[email protected]]

Are those expensive?

Yes.

But I wanted to see if they worked or not to fix my problem.

[dougyfresh]

Bro... did you read the whole post?

I literally popped all 5 of my rev. R coilpacks in half within 24 hours. I had to get the car towed and bought 6 brand new red. D from the dealer ship and put 4 of them in the car.

What was causing those to physically fail? The coils are falling apart in those pictures.

Your turbo is very close to the valve cover and those coil packs. I'm surprised your harness is not melting. Do the wires in the harness exhibit proper levels of resistance (ie: not shorting out)?

Curious to see your results with the new dyno. May I suggest you purchase a set of brand new revision D coilpacks and use those in your back-to back? New, unused, OEM -vs- new, unused, Okada.

[[email protected]]

I don't know what caused them to fail. The CP looked like it popped out from gas passing by a loose spark plug, when I tried to push it down I couldn't so I extracted it and what you see in the pics is the end result.

Those were the same set of rev. Rs I ran since I started my 3076 build, the only thing that changed was I polished the engine parts and then the CP failed. All 5 of them.

Unless polishing the VC caused a massive increase in temperature?

The rev. D I had in the car this morning might be 2 months old, of those 2 months I only drove the car maybe a dozen times, and I have 2 brand new ones in the box.

Don't know how much newer I can get for a direct comparison.

[Sales@RAI]

well, if you can run more timing with those okada ones that's good, but I haven't popped a D coil since October and they run strong as hell. I was even running 35psi on straight 93 on the street for a few days

[widgget]

coilpacks ware out after awhile, swap a fresh set in and i always notice a difference. i replace them once a year to just keep them fresh.
hope these plasma packs last you a bit longer at that price.

[jalcom1]

My engine is not a beautifully detailed as Winston's :-(

I bought a set on the group buy for S & G's. I put them in yesterday and there does seem to be a bit of a performance gain even on my "little" GTRS. I just got a larger FMIC and stage 2 Snow kit, once I get them on I will dyno with and without and see if there is a difference.

/ threadjacking - Sorry Winston.

[[email protected]]

My engine is not a beautifully detailed as Winston's :-(

I bought a set on the group buy for S & G's. I put them in yesterday and there does seem to be a bit of a performance gain even on my "little" GTRS. I just got a larger FMIC and stage 2 Snow kit, once I get them on I will dyno with and without and see if there is a difference.

/ threadjacking - Sorry Winston.

Don't have to apologize.

Better to have more people running these CP in this thread to post up their experiences, good or bad, than to not have them so others can decide if they want to invest in a set or not.

[RLB6]

Baller!!! I mean, $700+ for coilpacks when the new "D" revisions work fine for even folks with 35R strapped to their motors? I don't quite think that's money well spent. However, if this cures the misfire issue you had, then you have an issue somewhere else in your tune/engine.

EDIT: Just thought about something...is it possible that the downpipe mount that's attached to your valve cover is dispersing too much heat to the coilpacks, causing them to not fire effectively when need be? I would look into that because it's quite possible that the reason your baller coilpacks are working is because they have better insulation than the OEM coilpacks to deal with the added heat. Just an observation

[Arclight]

Your engine looks awesome Winston - nice write up.

[dirtybrd]

Winston, I would double check your grounds. Popping that many coils leads me to believe you have some sort of current issue. I removed the shared ground set-up and ran individual soldered ring terminal grounds, I ran them to the pass. side of the VC, the four holes at the edge, you could just loop them back up and mount them to the coil hold down bolts too. Nice info none the less!!!

[AudiA4Turbo22]

I seriously am considering these as the rev. D's failed on me and the STI coils I have now are better. I also believe that with more power ignition should be upgraded a bit and that spark plugs alone don't do the trick. Maybe I'm anal, but there had to be a reason these were developed.

[Valve_Cover]

Heres another quick question i havent seen anyone answer...whats your plug gap?? and heat range?

Spark blow out normally occurs at high psi values when the electrode gap is too high. If you are running this type of psi on such a setup you shouldn't be open anymore than 0.028'' , and even 0.024'' would be ideal. As far as plug heat range I take it you've done your homework and you're running a 7 range or even an 8. If you're still running a stock 6 range plug you could be increasing plug resistance under high temps and thus causing the coil to short out. Just a couple observations I've seen many a time in the shop with high hp cars. As for your original brand new coilpacks there is a very easy way to measure if they really are more efficient than brand new rev. R coils. A simple 20$ tool will tell you exactly how much voltage your coilpacks put out. If your current coilpacks cant put out 40,000v at ambient air temp and pressure, then you have a problem with your coilpacks. I'm sure the high end coils you bought can probably put out well over 50,000v.

Heres the tool i'm talking about, its called a spark tester:


Marc

[[email protected]]

Baller!!! I mean, $700+ for coilpacks when the new "D" revisions work fine for even folks with 35R strapped to their motors? I don't quite think that's money well spent. However, if this cures the misfire issue you had, then you have an issue somewhere else in your tune/engine.

I didn't have the misfire issue with the rev. R, only with the rev. D and it was running off the same tune. No adjustments were made to the software and the only adjustment made to the engine are:

- reringed the pistons as the previous rings were gapped too big and I was getting excessive blowby. Great for the track but not so great for daily driving. Replaced the JE rings with Total Seal rings.
- polished the VC and intake manifold

EDIT: Just thought about something...is it possible that the downpipe mount that's attached to your valve cover is dispersing too much heat to the coilpacks, causing them to not fire effectively when need be? I would look into that because it's quite possible that the reason your baller coilpacks are working is because they have better insulation than the OEM coilpacks to deal with the added heat. Just an observation

I asked Bob the same question and he said this isn't the issue. The VC is already hot from the hot oil splashing under it and while there might be a bit of heat transfer it wouldn't have reached down to CP#2 to cause it to melt and fail the way it did. BTW in the picutres it was CP #1 and #2 that failed. To prove his point he used a laser thermometer to measure spots the engine, including the DP bracket point, and none of them were excessive.

Winston, I would double check your grounds. Popping that many coils leads me to believe you have some sort of current issue. I removed the shared ground set-up and ran individual soldered ring terminal grounds, I ran them to the pass. side of the VC, the four holes at the edge, you could just loop them back up and mount them to the coil hold down bolts too. Nice info none the less!!!

I'll look into that Chris.

I just found it very odd that the rev. R's just failed that badly and considering the setup was running fine until I decided to have the block reringed and pieces polished is puzzling.

Heres another quick question i havent seen anyone answer...whats your plug gap?? and heat range?

I run Bosch FR5DTC 3 prong plugs.

I doubt that the shop has a spark tester but I'll ask anyway.

[Keaton@JHM]

i want my engine bay to look like winston's when it grows up . that is cleeeaaaaan.

i got my coilpacks after they failed on me on christmas eve (no joke, driving up to tahoe). how do i know what revision i have? i can't be sure but i don't remember seeing that info on the work write up. i know a lot of people are running oem coilpacks with much more aggro setups (as has been mentioned) but when do/does something like this start really helping? if i'm running nothing more than a k03 with a big injector file, will i see gains from getting these coils? okada's site says that you'll see gains in horsepower and efficiency, etc. etc...

...If you are interested in purchasing a set please let me know.

^^if you can guarantee me more hp, sign me up!

[[email protected]]

If you unplug the harness you will see the product code for the coilpack and the last letter is the revision of the unit.

Okada says forced induction cars will see more benefits from the coils than NA cars. The concept is more output from the CP = more spark, more spark = better burn which can translate into more power and possible better fuel economy.

The power portion I am hoping to see on the dyno, the fuel economy will take a few tanks of gas to determine.

[old guy]

Winston, at some point you should try increasing your gap with those bad ass coils. The only reason to reduce the gap is to prevent blow-out. With a higher voltage spark you can probably increase the gap considerably. Bigger gap = bigger/hotter spark = better combustion initiation.

[B6Lovin]

Winston, I would double check your grounds. Popping that many coils leads me to believe you have some sort of current issue. I removed the shared ground set-up and ran individual soldered ring terminal grounds, I ran them to the pass. side of the VC, the four holes at the edge, you could just loop them back up and mount them to the coil hold down bolts too. Nice info none the less!!!

^this is the right way to do it. a multimeter and 15 minutes is way less expensive than 700 dollar CP's. not discrediting them at all - but i too run lots of boost on my 30R with
the R's and have no problems. ive had the EXACT same symptoms that you're talking about winston - my car was doing it with the crappy "sti" coils that i used to run the last time i was on the dyno (the 30R pulls, not the 3071) and it felt like blowout. it's your coils not firing due to several factors - the biggest two being heat and age. those along with oil leaks and bad grounding are the #1-4 causes of misfires on these cars... ive delt with all of them in some measure since my motor build/BAT.

the grounding issues feel like a totally blown coil that fades in and out intermittently, a bad ground will usually be all or nothing... not a misfire @ a certain boost.
heat/age will give you a slowly decreasing level of spark which will result in symptoms just as you've described. for the okadas to not be doing this when your R's were i'd suspect that they either have a stronger overall spark, or better shielding from heat... or some of both.
oil will just straight up kill plugs.


what worries me is that your coils are PHYSICALLY broken. that is NOT normal, and points to some other outside influence for them to be failing internally - my guess being extreme heat causing them to separate and deform. the polished valve cover, level of boost/timing you run, and close proximity of your turbo are all factors.... what do your IAT's/EGT's look like? i know that the problem is "fixed" .... but you should seriously find out why you were toasting CP's like that. it's not even close to normal and i'd be seriously concerned with my wiring and motor hardware if i were you.

i know you said that you checked them with a thermometer and all, but for real... that shouldnt happen. ive never seen or even heard of that happening until now. people "pop" coils because they don't put spark plugs in correctly... and i've seen coils on a ford blow clear out of the motor and through a valve cover... but never on an audi, and never like that.

you're sure you pulled them straight up and out, right?

[[email protected]]

Winston, at some point you should try increasing your gap with those bad ass coils. The only reason to reduce the gap is to prevent blow-out. With a higher voltage spark you can probably increase the gap considerably. Bigger gap = bigger/hotter spark = better combustion initiation.

How do you increase the gap on a 3 prong setup?

^this is the right way to do it. a multimeter and 15 minutes is way less expensive than 700 dollar CP's. not discrediting them at all - but i too run lots of boost on my 30R with
the R's and have no problems. ive had the EXACT same symptoms that you're talking about winston - my car was doing it with the crappy "sti" coils that i used to run the last time i was on the dyno (the 30R pulls, not the 3071) and it felt like blowout. it's your coils not firing due to several factors - the biggest two being heat and age. those along with oil leaks and bad grounding are the #1-4 causes of misfires on these cars... ive delt with all of them in some measure since my motor build/BAT.

the grounding issues feel like a totally blown coil that fades in and out intermittently, a bad ground will usually be all or nothing... not a misfire @ a certain boost.
heat/age will give you a slowly decreasing level of spark which will result in symptoms just as you've described. for the okadas to not be doing this when your R's were i'd suspect that they either have a stronger overall spark, or better shielding from heat... or some of both.
oil will just straight up kill plugs.

There are no oil leaks so it is down to heat or a ground issue. I can test the ground when I bring the car back to the shop tomorrow.

But as I stated I can drop the rev. D CP back into the car and be able to reproduce the 'misfire' immediately.

Bob spoke with Tapp about my issues and when he looked over the file there is nothing wrong with it.

what worries me is that your coils are PHYSICALLY broken. that is NOT normal, and points to some other outside influence for them to be failing internally - my guess being extreme heat causing them to separate and deform. the polished valve cover, level of boost/timing you run, and close proximity of your turbo are all factors.... what do your IAT's/EGT's look like? i know that the problem is "fixed" .... but you should seriously find out why you were toasting CP's like that. it's not even close to normal and i'd be seriously concerned with my wiring and motor hardware if i were you.

i know you said that you checked them with a thermometer and all, but for real... that shouldnt happen. ive never seen or even heard of that happening until now. people "pop" coils because they don't put spark plugs in correctly... and i've seen coils on a ford blow clear out of the motor and through a valve cover... but never on an audi, and never like that.

you're sure you pulled them straight up and out, right?

I know it shouldn't happen and I when I looked into it I am not the first person wo have CP fail the way that they did. I think it was on Vortex where someone else posted up a picture of a CP that failed just like mine so this is not an unique problem.

As stated the ONLY two things that were done was reringing the pistons and polishing the VC, so unless both those items attribute to much higher operating temps there is nothing else done to my setup. There was no tweaking done to the software and at the time I was only boosting to 18psi as I was breaking the rings in.

The logger Bob uses logs everything from the ECU and all items looks good, I have added 2 IAT sensors to monitor the temps pre and post IC and compare them to the factory sensor in the IM.

So if you have any suggestions I am all ears but we are at a total loss as to why those 5 coils failed the way they did.

I guess if I really got inquisitive I can throw back on a regular unpolished VC and see if it changes anything. But again... I'm not the first person to polish a VC.

[old guy]

How do you increase the gap on a 3 prong setup?

Ha ha! Good question! With the three prong plugs I guess it's a mute point. But the comment still holds true if someone wants to use the Okada coils with a single electrode plug. The ideal situation is to run the biggest gap you can without experiencing a spark blow out issue.

Cheers!

[Sales@RAI]

Spend $8, get some BKR7Es, and knock them down to 0.24, report back with the D coilpacks

Or, spend $15, and get the NGK 9 range plugs, part # is 5238

[pondside36]

Got mine last week, will update with butt dyno opinion after I get to install. Winston how much did you have to trim, did you just use a knife or snips?

[[email protected]]

I would test fit them in your block before doing anything as they might fit perfectly fine in your setup.

If you line up your old CP with the Okada ones you can eyeball the difference in length.

We used the belt sander at the shop to take off about 3mm off the rubber tip to make them fit.

[pondside36]

Thanks, I'll test fit first to see how they fit since 3mm is so slight.

[Turbavanttro]

After reading alot of good posts here I'm going to chime in. While I agree with much of the rebuttal, my experience was much like Winston's. Cliff notes version: I recently installed my GTRS, and was experiencing some misfiring. After fixing all boost leaks, changed to D coils, still had a few misfires. Purchased a set of these, and misfires went away.

I understand several folks are running higher HP setups with stock coils, that's great. As they say, it works, don't fix it. But at the same time, if you are increasing output, it is customary to increase the capability of the ignition system. There is no downside to having a stronger spark. in any high HP car, having a stronger/more precise spark/ignition system helps to remove/eliminate spark-related issues. Sure insufficient ignition can be compensated for to a point, but why introduce any "slop" to the sytem. The output of the ignition system (in our case, the coilpack) is a key aspect of the ignition system's part in maintaining optimal efficiency and power in the engine's performance. A weak spark result in less than optimal burn. Which obviously could lead to "side effects" like decreased throttle respense, decrease gas mileage, decreased power (if the output is really insufficient).

The eurotuner test of the Okadas did a good job in my opinion at showing why a stronger coil is good. According to their test on a 2.0T Audi, the results were better throttle response, leading to slightly quicker spool up, and NOT higher horsepower. Which corresponded to the car being sightly quicker.

So, I'd like to hear someone say why having a more capable ignition is not good in terms of dialing in your motor's true potential.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Nobody said there was anything bad about using them, but you are making an assumption that the stock system isn't sufficient enough. Do you have any kind of evidence showing it isn't capable of doing its part of the job? There are hundreds of VW/Audi vehicles running very high horsepower with a stock ignition system. Because 2 people had some crazy issue with their car that nobody else has doesn't make the stock system incapable, and in that case it could quite possibly be a waste. An example being such as running race gas in a car with stock boost and timing, well sure it is great and all but the 93 octane does as good a job that is needed and you aren't really seeing any benefit from running say 100 octane.

It will be good to see a dyno comparision on a ar that actually makes descent power like Winston's instead of a stock car like the Eurotuner test. Now to play devil's advocate, will this even be a fair test since something obviously isn't right with his car from the results he has recently had with screwing up so many stock coils? The problem being that he had fairly new coils with issues while hundreds of others drive daily with the stock ones that aren't even brand new with comparable setups to his and even more extreme and they are just fine.

[Turbavanttro]

Thats not my point david. I dont need a sheet of paper to prove that a more precise spark is good for the performance of an engine.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Then you are completely missing the point. I thought the race gas example would help explain that but apparently not. In your thinking, I don't need a piece of paper to tell me VP MS109 race gas would be better for me to run in my stock A4 than 93 because it has higher octane and that is better right? That clearly isn't the case though.

[Sales@RAI]

After reading alot of good posts here I'm going to chime in. While I agree with much of the rebuttal, my experience was much like Winston's. Cliff notes version: I recently installed my GTRS, and was experiencing some misfiring. After fixing all boost leaks, changed to D coils, still had a few misfires. Purchased a set of these, and misfires went away.

I understand several folks are running higher HP setups with stock coils, that's great. As they say, it works, don't fix it. But at the same time, if you are increasing output, it is customary to increase the capability of the ignition system. There is no downside to having a stronger spark. in any high HP car, having a stronger/more precise spark/ignition system helps to remove/eliminate spark-related issues. Sure insufficient ignition can be compensated for to a point, but why introduce any "slop" to the sytem. The output of the ignition system (in our case, the coilpack) is a key aspect of the ignition system's part in maintaining optimal efficiency and power in the engine's performance. A weak spark result in less than optimal burn. Which obviously could lead to "side effects" like decreased throttle respense, decrease gas mileage, decreased power (if the output is really insufficient).

The eurotuner test of the Okadas did a good job in my opinion at showing why a stronger coil is good. According to their test on a 2.0T Audi, the results were better throttle response, leading to slightly quicker spool up, and NOT higher horsepower. Which corresponded to the car being sightly quicker.

So, I'd like to hear someone say why having a more capable ignition is not good in terms of dialing in your motor's true potential.

I don't think anyone is doubting you. Rather, people aren't convinced because

A. Plenty of people run stock coils
B. Winston obviously has a large problem if his coilpacks are physically deforming.
C. These things cost as much as about 55 OEM coils

I do agree that more spark is great for more power, but maybe Winston should look into the underlying problem. Call me crazy, but I think a good set of the 9 range NGK plugs I run and some new D coils would have solved his problem

[Turbavanttro]

Then you are completely missing the point. I thought the race gas example would help explain that but apparently not. In your thinking, I don't need a piece of paper to tell me VP MS109 race gas would be better for me to run in my stock A4 than 93 because it has higher octane and that is better right? That clearly isn't the case though.

no im not missing "the point" david. your race gas example just further supports my point. of course octane is part of the equation and is an important factor, but not the topic of this particular thread. this is about the intensity of the ignition as related to coil packs.

[Turbavanttro]

thats possible clint. its hard to say specifically whats going on with winstons car. however, he observed improvement by installing the okadas....as i did also. i have not had a single detected misfire since i installed them. i had revison d coils and fr5dtc plugs and experienced some misfires, and when i installed these almost all misfires went away without dong anything else.

in general i dont think of spark related to power, i wasnt trying to say that more spark is more power. i generally think of spark related to efficiency with respect to fuel, ignition/timing, and air input. that said, the intensity (and timing) of the spark, the volumee and spray poattern if the injector, and the spark plug firing characteristics (how it fires) all need to work well together. they obviously play a big role in how efficient and strong a particular engine runs. and there are alot of variations out there so apples to apples comparisons are not easy to find.

[[email protected]]

C. These things cost as much as about 55 OEM coils

The Plasma CP aren't cheap but they are more like the price of 35 new rev D's

I do agree that more spark is great for more power, but maybe Winston should look into the underlying problem. Call me crazy, but I think a good set of the 9 range NGK plugs I run and some new D coils would have solved his problem

You are crazy!

I will look to see if there are any ground problems, but as I stated my car made 400awhp and was running fine except for a bit too much blowby due to too big of a ring gap.

So I had the pistons reringed with Total Seal rings and had the VC, IM and compressor polished.

That's it.

So after taking the car to the track and beating the crap out of it, after beating the crap out of it on the dyno and on the street using the same Bosch plugs, same tune and the same set of rev.R coils used since day 1 of the build.

When 5 rev. R coilpacks fail now all of a sudden the type of spark plug I run is bad?

While I admit there is an unanswered issue here I don't buy that my plugs are at fault.

And if you think my coilpack failure is strange. Check out this one from a NA motor:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/a4b6/msgs/29826.phtml

[downhillracer]

Good thread! After reading everything I am going to chime in and say that the new total seal rings are probably the culprit. Although having a good seal in the combustion chamber is key and is a good thing, it definitely increases pressure in the combustion chamber. More pressure = more KV to ignite the spark plug. More pressure = greater resistance = more KV needed to jump the gap. So add the pressure then add the added heat due to a better burn = much more stress on the ignition system/coils.

[diagnosticator]

Like the Ignition Solutions coil pack, the Okada coil packs are modified Hitachi 115E coil packs. As is the case with the 115E coils, does the engine run "smother' at idle compared to the 115R coil packs? If that is the case, the actual ignition timing is likely retarded due to a mismatch of the dynamic dwell or energized timing of the coil primary circuit, compared the the R coils. It would also be interesting to see if standard 115E coil packs would resolve the spark blowout issue also. BTW, three electrode plugs are not the best choice for high output applications because of the shielding of the spark from the Air/Fuel mixture at the ignition point by the surrounding 3 electrodes. A single electrode plug will perform better under high boost conditions. Also, a single electrode plug that is as exposed to the Air/fuel mixture as possible, like the Bosch F5DPOR, may eliminate the tendency for spark blow-out enough to stop the misfires at high boost pressures.