Quick wash and clay bar..befor/after pics

[mirS4]

Did a quick wash and decided to clay bar it for the first time..
Before:


After:

[S E B]

How hard was it to clay bar the car? I've always wanted to do it but was afraid of messing up the paint.

[mirS4]

It was easier then i thought..i bought a kit that came with 2 clay bars, a cloth, and some detail spray..you basically just spray a part of the car and spray the clay bar a little bit then gently go over it with the clay bar(don't push down hard) then wipe it off with the cloth.

[madman1234509]

Make sure you wax the car after! Clay baring not only takes out contaminents from your paint it also takes off what wax was on there... But, i clay bar my car twice a year and it makes a huge difference, you can feel how smooth the paint is after

[Oompous]

doesnt it take the clear coat off?

[madman1234509]

no i dont believe so its not that aggressive. Also.... I would suggest trying http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...blah-blah-blah this polish/wax ...check it out, and if you arent convinced watch the videos on youtube, its deffinatly what im going to be using next time i wax my car

[RolledMySTi]

Blindingly bright now. Good work. I love how well clay bars work.

[Lessthen]

Using a Clay bar does not damage anything at all its 100% safe. The difference with before and after is big.

[S4Drifting]

I was very surprised how easy the clay bar was to use. I thought it would be very meticulous and time consuming, but the whole car was finished in about an hour. Car looks great especially after a good wax.

[Oompous]

im definitely going to do this later next week.

[madman1234509]

Like i said, clay bar does take off wax so anyone who intends to use it make sure you wax her up too :-P deffinatly makes the car sparkle though

[julex]

just use Once a Year Car Polish (the orange/reddish stuff) and you will be amazed. It cleans and applies waxes at the same time. It actually does last for one year although I do it every 6 months. And is easy to apply with buffer and you cannot over apply it :)

[StumpyRS4]

Just make sure you use the Bar with plenty of water or supplied detailing spray. Can damage the paintwork otherwise.

Simple job and makes a huge difference to your car's paint condition - leaves it feeling like glass.

[Dowskeet]

OP - nice work.. Looks like the second picture was taken in direct sunlight but the paint definitely looks a lot cleaner. Great job.

doesnt it take the clear coat off?

no.. Clay bars are used to lift light/medium enviromental fallout (ie. road grim, tar, bug guts, road paint, etc) off your paint so that you have a clean surface to start correcting or sealing/waxing. Clay bars in and of themselves will not hurt your paint I would however highly recommend not going crazy in and around older trim. If you wanted to try to get something off your trim (other than paint) make sure you use a lot of suds/lube.

You can start to scratch the paint if you have a "grittier" claybar. That will not be the case if your buying Meguiars or Mothers claybar kits from AutoZone or WallyWorld. Just make sure the bar always has some liquid between it and the paint surface. You don't even need to use the spray that was provided a simple water/soap mix will be fine if you run out.

just use Once a Year Car Polish (the orange/reddish stuff) and you will be amazed. It cleans and applies waxes at the same time. It actually does last for one year although I do it every 6 months. And is easy to apply with buffer and you cannot over apply it :)

If your talking about Nu-Finish I would suggest getting a few different polishes, and some other higher quality waxes. Nu-Finish is a great sealant/wax and does indeed last a good amount of time but there isn't really any depth being brought out with that wax at all.

Simple job and makes a huge difference to your car's paint condition - leaves it feeling like glass.

Love the glass like feel.. Best thing to do for your paint every 2-3 months

[StumpyRS4]

Yep and a de-tar too!

[JackalS4]

Very nice!

After all this time the clay must have picked up a LOT!

I will add/re-iterate a few points myself:

** As mentioned, over the counter clay should not be too harsh as they are considered a "mild" clay bars (Meguiars/Mother's), but without proper lubrication you can cause minor paint marring. Usually without enough lubrication you get a "cloudy" type of effect (and sticking/dragging) and with a overly dirty or dropped clay bar you risk introducing new swirl marks. But this realistically is not likely if you're even SLIGHTLY careful and logical when doing this, but does depend on the paint too.

** Claying a car should not be removing any clear coat, but instead picking up "embedded" bits from it that normal washing just can't release

** It is ideal to clay a car before a polish for a smoother surface to work with

seblun - Try it. It all makes sense once you get going.

And i'll have to look into this Acrylic Werks stuff madman!

[StumpyRS4]

Acrylic Werks stuff works best on light coloured cars - really pops on my Avus...

[madman1234509]

There are some vids on youtube. There is one with an old red truck they restore a section of paint, and an old sunfaded volvo mirror, makes it look like new. I have yet to try it but cant wait to on my black car

[mirS4]

Thanks guys..i had my little sister clean my wheels, shine up the tires, scrub out some tar off the front bumper, and polish my engine bay with transmission fluid..all she wanted was a strawberry short cake from the ice cream truck and a dollar :]

[P0234]

doesnt it take the clear coat off?

Yep, technically it does, but not enough to measure or matter. Clay bar is actually an abrasive suspended in a rubberized clay. The key to it is using LOTS of lube, otherwise you'll end up with micro-marring (tiny swirl marks). I like to get a bucket of very hot water and break the clay bar in two pieces. Use one bar, then when it gets dirty, throw it in the hot water. Pull out the other,fold so you have clean clay. It will be super soft and tacky, which means it will work better and be easier to fold.

[Dowskeet]

Yep, technically it does, but not enough to measure or matter. Clay bar is actually an abrasive suspended in a rubberized clay. The key to it is using LOTS of lube, otherwise you'll end up with micro-marring (tiny swirl marks). I like to get a bucket of very hot water and break the clay bar in two pieces. Use one bar, then when it gets dirty, throw it in the hot water. Pull out the other,fold so you have clean clay. It will be super soft and tacky, which means it will work better and be easier to fold.

I don't want to pollute this thread but this isn't true at all. You can create "micro scratches" not swirls. There isn't any break down of the clear at all thats what happens when you work polishes into the paint or burnish the paint. Swirl marks are created by the application not that its just clay. You can get swirls in your paint if you not cleaning your car properly (ie. two bucket method.. making sure there isn't any grit building up in your mitt, and there is enough suds.)

Bottom line as long as you follow the directions on the back of the bottle/package the average person wont have any issues.

[mirS4]

I don't want to pollute this thread but this isn't true at all. You can create "micro scratches" not swirls. There isn't any break down of the clear at all thats what happens when you work polishes into the paint or burnish the paint. Swirl marks are created by the application not that its just clay. You can get swirls in your paint if you not cleaning your car properly (ie. two bucket method.. making sure there isn't any grit building up in your mitt, and there is enough suds.)

Bottom line as long as you follow the directions on the back of the bottle/package the average person wont have any issues.

true story.

[P0234]

I don't want to pollute this thread but this isn't true at all. You can create "micro scratches" not swirls. There isn't any break down of the clear at all thats what happens when you work polishes into the paint or burnish the paint. Swirl marks are created by the application not that its just clay. You can get swirls in your paint if you not cleaning your car properly (ie. two bucket method.. making sure there isn't any grit building up in your mitt, and there is enough suds.)

Bottom line as long as you follow the directions on the back of the bottle/package the average person wont have any issues.

Usually I wouldn't be as brash as calling someone out as being completely wrong, but you did it first.

-Clay is abrasive. It comes in various strengths, the stuff you bought at the auto parts store is fine grade. Rub it on your paint long enough, you'll get down to metal. Maybe one of these days you can grab a bar of medium and notice that it mars up your paint to the point of looking dull.

-I never said anyone would end up with swirl marks from clay, perhaps you need to re-read. I said you'd get micro-marring, since 99 out of 100 people here don't know what that is, I said tiny swirl marks.

-Any pro detailer worth his salt is going to polish after claying (polish with an abrasive, not use a wax/lsp) as even fine grade clay dulls the finish a bit. Not an issue to anyone reading here, but it still need correction for an optimal finish.

Wanna talk more about it, head over to Autopia.

But yeah, I don't know the first thing about making paint shine.....

[S E B]

I definitely will try out clay baring in the near future.

What clay bar do you guys suggest for a first timer?
Don't want to screw anything up using heavy duty clay.

[S4_NE]

/\ Mothers works good for a first timer, our if you want a good paint cleaner try Zymol pre wax cleaner AKA HD cleanse , works very well and then wax it after.

[P0234]

I definitely will try out clay baring in the near future.

What clay bar do you guys suggest for a first timer?
Don't want to screw anything up using heavy duty clay.

I prefer the claymagic kit as the clay is the grabbiest, but in reality, they are all made by the same company (Automagic). Anything you buy at a Wal-mart or a regular parts store like Advance or Autozone will probably be fine grade, the medium and coarse stuff doesn't even come with any lube usually as they expect you have your own.

The Turtle Wax (I know... I know) kit is actually a great value, the "liquid clay" that it comes with is no replacement for real clay, that is why they finally got wise and now have a kit with it and a real clay bar. BUT, the liquid clay is a great paint cleaner if you have a somewhat neglected finish and makes claying go way faster. Its something to consider if your paint is less than perfect.

[P0234]

/\ Mothers works good for a first timer, our if you want a good paint cleaner try Zymol pre wax cleaner AKA HD cleanse , works very well and then wax it after.

The mothers stuff is a great kit too, but HD-Cleanse is old hat, its pricey, a pain to work with and does little more than strip old wax. You are way better off getting Meg's Swirl-X or even Color-X, they work way faster and produce better results.

[mirS4]

i used mothers..

[Reaxion]

Blue clay is the one you want if your not going to follow up w/ any paint correction.

[Dowskeet]

Usually I wouldn't be as brash as calling someone out as being completely wrong, but you did it first.

-Clay is abrasive. It comes in various strengths, the stuff you bought at the auto parts store is fine grade. Rub it on your paint long enough, you'll get down to metal. Maybe one of these days you can grab a bar of medium and notice that it mars up your paint to the point of looking dull.

-I never said anyone would end up with swirl marks from clay, perhaps you need to re-read. I said you'd get micro-marring, since 99 out of 100 people here don't know what that is, I said tiny swirl marks.

-Any pro detailer worth his salt is going to polish after claying (polish with an abrasive, not use a wax/lsp) as even fine grade clay dulls the finish a bit. Not an issue to anyone reading here, but it still need correction for an optimal finish.

I agree with everything that your saying but I guess your getting some seriously abrasive clay if your taking off paint. I would suggest putting down your sandpaper. 9 times out of 10 you will never need a clay more than that of what you can get at the Autoparts store. The use of various chemicals can take a lot of the elbow grease out of some of the nasty environmental fallout that you usually see on the car. I am glad that you understand the correct way to clean the car and agree that any detailer should following claying with a polish/lsp. I guess I have no idea what I am doing.. lol

/\ Mothers works good for a first timer, our if you want a good paint cleaner try Zymol pre wax cleaner AKA HD cleanse , works very well and then wax it after.

x2.. Mothers, Meguiars, or clay magic. All work well.

[P0234]

I agree with everything that your saying but I guess your getting some seriously abrasive clay if your taking off paint. I would suggest putting down your sandpaper.

I think you are missing the point. Clay is abrasive, it takes off paint...PERIOD. Is it enough to matter, no, but it does. Clay IS sandpaper in a flexible form. If they told you that on the box, everyone wouldn't touch the stuff. What does matter is it dulls paint that is in good condition requiring a follow up with an abrasive. I'm guessing you don't think polish takes off paint either. BTW, are you on any of the detailing forums? I'd love to take a look at some of your work.

[Dowskeet]

I think you are missing the point. Clay is abrasive, it takes off paint...PERIOD. Is it enough to matter, no, but it does. Clay IS sandpaper in a flexible form. If they told you that on the box, everyone wouldn't touch the stuff. What does matter is it dulls paint that is in good condition requiring a follow up with an abrasive. I'm guessing you don't think polish takes off paint either. BTW, are you on any of the detailing forums? I'd love to take a look at some of your work.

I agree that most people would be terrified that if the box said it took off paint because it doesn't.. I think you were meaning to say the clear. I agree that if you rubbed the paint without any lube it would take clear off. However thats the extreme side of things.. The clay used with proper lubrication lifts and encapsulates the environmental fallout within the clay.

I am.. HOVTroll over on vwvortex... Doubt there are any pictures up there at all they are moving a lot of the archived posts onto their new servers.. But like I said.. I don't know anything.. Clearly you are the expert.

If you would like to argue more please bring this to private messages.. This is pointless in the OP's thread.

[P0234]

I agree that most people would be terrified that if the box said it took off paint because it doesn't.. I think you were meaning to say the clear. I agree that if you rubbed the paint without any lube it would take clear off. However thats the extreme side of things.

The clear is paint, it just doesn't contain any pigment. Glad you came around full circle to what I had originally posted:

Originally Posted by Oompous
doesnt it take the clear coat off?
Yep, technically it does, but not enough to measure or matter. Clay bar is actually an abrasive suspended in a rubberized clay. The key to it is using LOTS of lube, otherwise you'll end up with micro-marring (tiny swirl marks).

[Dowskeet]

The clear is paint, it just doesn't contain any pigment. Glad you came around full circle to what I had originally posted:

Originally Posted by Oompous
doesnt it take the clear coat off?
Yep, technically it does, but not enough to measure or matter. Clay bar is actually an abrasive suspended in a rubberized clay. The key to it is using LOTS of lube, otherwise you'll end up with micro-marring (tiny swirl marks).

Expert..