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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings Nadrealista's Avatar
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    Question Alignmnet specs for track - toe-in or toe-out?

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    Some time ago I ran into really good article(below) how to alight car properly for improved handling on both street and track.

    This morning I finally got my alignment spec sheet from my last alignment and from what I can tell I have it set up for toe-in at both ends.

    Am I reading this right?

    front:
    LF toe 0.18 degrees
    RF toe 0.16 degrees
    Toe In 0.34 degrees



    rear:
    LR toe 0.12 degrees
    RR toe 0.15 degrees
    Toe In 0.27 degrees



    My goal is to dial out and as much understeer as possible for good rear rotation and neutral balance on the track, meaning rear will have to be adjusted for some toe-out.

    What are the recommended settings for the track use?
    Car Set-Up: Toe-in/Toe-out

    Negative Toe is the same as Toe-in and positive Toe is the same as Toe-out. These settings are important settings for stabilizing your car and the steering in the corners. Make sure that your wheels are centered during the measuring of the Toe. You can adjust the toe by turning the steering turnbuckles.

    Front Toe-in/Toe-out

    Toe-in Toe-in will stabilize the car in the straights, during acceleration and the exits of the corners. It will also make the car less aggressive and easier to drive. It may also increase your steering in the mid and exit of the corner.

    -1Ú

    Toe-out Toe-out will make the aggressive and harder to drive. But it will increase the steering entering the corners.

    +1Ú

    Neutral-Toe For a neutral feeling adjust 0Ú toe. But the car may be not stable.



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    Rear Toe-in/Toe-out

    Toe-in Toe-in at the rear make's your car more sticky at the back and easier to drive This may stabilize your car. But be careful, this is a very sensitive adjustment.

    0Ú- -3.5Ú

    Toe-out Rear Toe-out makes the rear of your car very instable. This adjustment is never used and we advise you to not use it.

    +1Ú

    Neutral-Toe For a neutral feeling adjust less toe-in. The car will be slightly faster and more efficient. But the car may stick less in the back and that could cause slower laptimes.




    Toe

    Toe is an alignment parameter that describes how the front wheels are oriented with respect to each other and how the rear wheels are oriented with respect to each other. With the steering wheel centered, if the front wheels are pointing toward each other (from a top view), they have "toe-in" or are "toed-in". If they are pointing away from each other, they are said to have "toe-out" or be "toed-out". The same definitions apply for the rear wheels. Toe can be measured as an angle between the perfectly straight position of a wheel and its position after toe is adjusted. Toe can also be determined by finding the difference between the distance separating the front edges of the wheels and the distance separating the rear edges of the wheels. More distance between the front edges than the rear edges is toe-out. More distance between the rear edges than the front edges is toe-in.

    Toe is used to change the way a car behaves on corner entry. The more toe-in you have on a pair of wheels, the harder it is to make those wheels turn into a corner. The more toe-out you use, the easier it is to get that pair of wheels to turn into a corner.

    Why does this happen? Let's take an example where a car with toe-in on the front wheels is about to enter a left turn. The driver begins to turn the wheel left. Now, the left-front tire is pointing only slightly to the left while the right-front tire is pointing much more to the left. The problem with this is that the left-front tire needs to turn with a greater angle than the right-front tire because the left-front tire is on the inside of the corner and, therefore, must trace an arc with a smaller radius than the outside tire. However, with toe-in, the left-front tire is actually trying to trace a larger radius arc than the right-front tire. It is difficult to make the car turn because the left-front tire is fighting the right-front. When the car is already in the turn, weight transfers to the right-front tire and diminishes the effect of the left-front tire. Because of this weight transfer, toe mainly affects corner entry.

    With toe-out, the inside tire in a corner turns with a greater angle than the outside tire (as it should). This improves the grip of the front tires on corner entry.

    In addition to corner-entry handling, toe affects straight-line stability. Toe-in improves stability while toe-out worsens stability. This can be explained through the same reasoning as was used to describe corner-entry handling. Toe-out encourages turn-in since the inside tire turns at a greater angle than the outside. Hence, the car is sensitive to the slightest steering input. Toe-out will make the car wander on the straightaways requiring corrective steering. The car will always be turning unless the steering is perfectly centered. With toe-in, the inside tire fights the outside since the inside is trying to trace a larger radius arc than the outside. As a result, toe-in discourages turn-in and makes the car less sensitive to steering input. In other words, it is more stable.

    Let's consider an example of the straight-line stability concept. Assume you have toe-out on the rear wheels. You are traveling in a straight line when your right-rear tire hits a small bump. It gets pushed back slightly by the impact, and it is now pointing more to the right than the left-rear tire. Therefore, the back of the car turns to the right until the right rear suspension comes back to its original position. The same thing can occur with the front wheels. In fact, the effect on the front suspension is even worse because the right-front wheel getting pushed back, for instance, will also turn the left-front wheel to the right.

    Rear toe is usually only adjusted on front-wheel drive cars or rear wheel drive cars with independent rear suspensions. I wanted to include this example just to show that rear toe can be adjusted just like front toe on many cars. With a front-wheel drive car, it is sometimes helpful to add some rear toe-out to decrease the stability of the rear tires and counter the understeer inherent in front-wheel drive cars. For a rear-wheel drive car with independent rear suspension, the torque produced on the rear suspension when you step on the throttle tends to pull the rear wheels forward on the suspension pivots. This creates toe-in. To counter this effect, you can toe-out the rear wheels so they will become straight when you step on the throttle. I do not recommend this since rear toe-out in a rear-wheel drive car can cause severe oversteer. Instead of using toe-out, install aftermarket bushings and suspension links to keep the suspension from getting pulled forward under hard acceleration.

    As you may have expected, toe increases tire wear because the tires are fighting each other and, therefore, scrubbing along the ground. Toe-in tends to increase tire wear on the outside edges of the tires. Toe-out tends to increase tire wear on the inside edges of the tires. Make sure that you consider your camber setting when adding toe-out. If you are using negative camber, you are already wearing the inside of the tires more than normal. The combination of excessive negative camber and toe-out can quickly wear the inside of a tire and cause it to fail.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings hoosierchemist's Avatar
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    I'm not even going to pretend that I read all of that, but check this link too: http://www.stasisengineering.com/faq.aspx

    Second FAQ down on the right addresses alignment specs. For track (road course, not drag obviously), you want zero toe, or toe out.
    2000 Nogaro S4 6mt

    VAST RS6 Stage III, sport package, sunroof delete, Southbend Stage 3 clutch, piggie pipes, Stasis MS coilovers, 034 track density motor/trans mounts, forge exhaust, 710N DVs, AWE DTS, neuspeed swaybar, toyguy ss

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings Nadrealista's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoosierchemist View Post
    I'm not even going to pretend that I read all of that, but check this link too: http://www.stasisengineering.com/faq.aspx

    Second FAQ down on the right addresses alignment specs. For track (road course, not drag obviously), you want zero toe, or toe out.
    I would like to hear back from people that have tried one of these stasis setups:

    Conservative Street Setup
    Between 1/16 and 1/32 TOE IN front and 1/32 TOE IN rear
    Ride height at 25.875” front and 26.000” rear
    (–1.0 camber front)

    Aggressive Street Setup
    Between 1/32 and 0 TOE IN on all four corners
    Ride height at 25.500” front and 25.625” rear
    (–1.5 to –1.75 camber front)

    Track Setup
    Between 0 and 1/16 TOE OUT on all four corners
    Ride height at 25.000” front and 25.250” rear
    (–2.0 to –3.0 camber front)

  4. #4
    Account Terminated Four Rings
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    what do you want to know? I have setup and ran all of those in less time than it will take me to read what you wrote. stasis figured it out pretty good, run their specs or dont for what they suggest.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacDaddy's Avatar
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    those toe-out based alignments you posted will only be good for autocrossing where your maximum speed is about 60km/h, toeing out the rear will make the rear end want to move away from the apex and corner wide.

    my car used to have toe out front and rear, and there was this one corenr i used to always plow through and understeer terribly through it, but then i got an alinment and set the car up with maximum allowable negative camber and toe in on the rear and a slight amount of toe in on the front. now going through that corner i understeer much less than i did before and the rear end comes around niceley with the front instead of trying to steer sway from the apex like it did before. I'm sure i could have made it to understeer less, but then stability would have suffered.

    have a look at this, it will give you a good idea about what alignments do to your car and you can decide from there what you want to do.
    http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handlin...ng_tuningtable

    I basically used this, personal first hand experiance and BMW's stock alignment specs to figure out what i wanted.
    the B5 S4 is like the mafia... there is only one way out!

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings shokwav09's Avatar
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    what setup of suspension do you have? all of it please

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings Nadrealista's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacDaddy View Post
    those toe-out based alignments you posted will only be good for autocrossing where your maximum speed is about 60km/h, toeing out the rear will make the rear end want to move away from the apex and corner wide.

    my car used to have toe out front and rear, and there was this one corenr i used to always plow through and understeer terribly through it, but then i got an alinment and set the car up with maximum allowable negative camber and toe in on the rear and a slight amount of toe in on the front. now going through that corner i understeer much less than i did before and the rear end comes around niceley with the front instead of trying to steer sway from the apex like it did before. I'm sure i could have made it to understeer less, but then stability would have suffered.

    have a look at this, it will give you a good idea about what alignments do to your car and you can decide from there what you want to do.
    http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handlin...ng_tuningtable

    I basically used this, personal first hand experiance and BMW's stock alignment specs to figure out what i wanted.
    thanks for the link!

    hold on a second, are you talking about S4 or BMW here?

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings Nadrealista's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shokwav09 View Post
    what setup of suspension do you have? all of it please
    I have Eibach Pro-System (springs and dampers), H-Sports sway bars front and rear (rear is set to hard), summer tires(sumitomo htr 3) on stock rims

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings shokwav09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nadrealista View Post
    I have Eibach Pro-System (springs and dampers), H-Sports sway bars front and rear (rear is set to hard), summer tires(sumitomo htr 3) on stock rims
    you already have a slight offset of positive camber just from the springs [maybe half degree], caused by lowering itself. the adjustability youre going about is usually found with coilovers and camber plates. or laterals that are retractable. if youre into street racing and not much more as long as youre happy with ride height youre good to go mostly for daily driving and even tire wear, feul consumption too. . weekend warrior autocrossing is questionable for how well you want to outperform yourself. when it comes to full track excursions, then all the aspects come into play, length, turns, thats when you get the sickness for maneuvering homie. compounds can play a big factor versus the more elaborate suspension setups when youre a mild mannered tuner/driver. a little bit of less costly way to stay tight in corners. preference and pocketmoney guy as for toe in and out, try adjusting it every weekend on a daily driver, call me for xannex when you go nuts.
    Last edited by shokwav09; 03-25-2010 at 03:11 PM.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacDaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nadrealista View Post
    thanks for the link!

    hold on a second, are you talking about S4 or BMW here?
    what i basically did was researched what kind of alignments BMW uses and applied the same theory to the S4, but made it a little more agressive in the rear and spirited-driving friedly.
    the B5 S4 is like the mafia... there is only one way out!

  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings Nadrealista's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacDaddy View Post
    what i basically did was researched what kind of alignments BMW uses and applied the same theory to the S4, but made it a little more agressive in the rear and spirited-driving friedly.
    interesting I thought that BMW settings would never work since it has good balance out of the box(50/50 weight distribution) where our car is very much nose heavy(60/40) due to the engine ahead of the front wheels design :-( causing buttload of understeer!

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings shokwav09's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nadrealista View Post
    interesting I thought that BMW settings would never work since it has good balance out of the box(50/50 weight distribution) where our car is very much nose heavy(60/40) due to the engine ahead of the front wheels design :-( causing buttload of understeer!
    anytime you adjust suspension for racing is a benefit for handling. think contact patch all the time.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacDaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nadrealista View Post
    interesting I thought that BMW settings would never work since it has good balance out of the box(50/50 weight distribution) where our car is very much nose heavy(60/40) due to the engine ahead of the front wheels design :-( causing buttload of understeer!
    thats why i kept it within audi factory specs, its maximum allowable toe in and negative camber in the rear with a full tank of gas. If we had a 50/50 weight distribution i would have gone with more toe and camber.
    the B5 S4 is like the mafia... there is only one way out!

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