Trunk Release (soft release) Not Working?

[A4orce84]

Hey Guys,

Opening my trunk tonight, I usually use the remote to pop open my trunk...but tonight hit unlock 2x and walked up to the end to use the soft release above the license plate.

To my surprise pressing the release didn't do anything. It felt as if it was locked as i could just squeeze through it without hearing the release sound.

I tested the remote and the switch inside the driver's door, and they both popped open the trunk as expected...just the soft release on the actual trunk was not functioning correctly.

Anyone has any ideas?

Thanks in advance!


--Asif

[ben tumbling]

the release from the inside got unhooked. happened to me before. open the whole panel it's a quick fix.

[A4orce84]

Hey Everyone,

Giving a quick update as myself and Matt D were able to dig inside my trunk liner tonight. Opened the whole panel to find nothing disconnected and everything plugged in snugly.

Pressing the handle, you can hear the switch click, but nothing is happening with the motor.

However, the trunk still unlocks fine with the remote and with the switch on the driver's door.

The current hypothesis is that the handle's switch is possibly not sending the electronic signal and is broken?

Anyone have any other ideas on things to look for to troubleshoot the situation / fix the problem?

Thanks in advance!


--Asif

[PCYC]

maybe the solenoid is bad

[A4orce84]

Is there any way to check for sure if that's what it is? Or to replace it cheaply??

Thanks!

[A4orce84]

TTT

[A4orce84]

TTT

[Dan1969]

This is the first I hear from the handle being the problem, is usually the actuator motor. Does it open fine with your door release and the fob? If they do then probably the handle is disconnected. If you can find the connection then the whole handle should be in your sight, never opened this part so I'm not sure, but highly doubt the handle itself.

[A4orce84]

Yup it pops open fine with the remote and driver's door switch.

[A4orce84]

anyone else?

[Jeff]

Audi changed the trunk release switch because the contacts were deteriorating internally upon heat cycling and moisture. The later 2004's were fitted with them. If you want to do a test, pull your trunk panel off, disconnect the harness to the release switch, and hook up the pins to a multimeter (set on Continuity test)...it should open and close accordingly. If not, your switch is busted. But BASED on the facts you provided, where your remote and cabin switch both work, you have just pinpointed your problem using deductive reasoning.

Actuators go bad as well, but I don't think it's the problem in your case.

[SpacemanSpiff]

I was just going to ask if you could manually jump the switch and get it to work (which the multimeter does nicely). Good info!

[A4orce84]

Is there a way to ONLY replace the trunk switch then?

[Jeff]

Is there a way to ONLY replace the trunk switch then?

Well assuming your switch is bad.... you can splice two wires from inside the trunk to dangle outside your car...when you need to open the trunk, simply short the 2 wires.

[Dillon]

does it work if you put the key in. If you use the key and turn it one way it disables the button. have you checked this?

[A4orce84]

I have, currently my lock position is sitting up and down (vertically) which I assume is the "unlocked position"

There is the horizontal position by turning it all the way to the right, which I'm assuming is the locked position.

I can also open the trunk with the key by turning it left (counter clockwise) and the trunk opens if it is latched closed.

So trying both (vertical and horizontal positions) did not make any change.

[Dillon]

I have, currently my lock position is sitting up and down (vertically) which I assume is the "unlocked position"

There is the horizontal position by turning it all the way to the right, which I'm assuming is the locked position.

I can also open the trunk with the key by turning it left (counter clockwise) and the trunk opens if it is latched closed.

So trying both (vertical and horizontal positions) did not make any change.

My vagcom picked up short to my door locks, maybe you can hook it up and see if it shows a short to your trunk latch to back up your thoughts.

But you most likely just need a new release

[A4orce84]

how much are the released, and can I buy ONLY the release?

[A4orce84]

Weekday bump

[SpacemanSpiff]

My vagcom picked up short to my door locks, maybe you can hook it up and see if it shows a short to your trunk latch to back up your thoughts.

He would have an open, not a short. A short is electricity taking a new (and incorrect) path to ground, whereas an open means electricity can't get to ground. Being that the switch normally creates an open when the latch isn't being triggered, it would stand to reason that the VAG couldn't catch this one. Good thought though.

I'd have to think a boneyard somewhere would have a trunk with an acceptable switch available. Someone posted a link for a company that pulls wrecked Audi's apart in another thread, but I can't seem to find it right now.

Good luck!

[Dan1969]

He would have an open, not a short. A short is electricity taking a new (and incorrect) path to ground, whereas an open means electricity can't get to ground. Being that the switch normally creates an open when the latch isn't being triggered, it would stand to reason that the VAG couldn't catch this one. Good thought though.

I'd have to think a boneyard somewhere would have a trunk with an acceptable switch available. Someone posted a link for a company that pulls wrecked Audi's apart in another thread, but I can't seem to find it right now.

Good luck!

He picked up a short, VAG tool picks up shorts to ground there engineer. A short to ground will be the same thing as you think an open would be except that you're reading the nominal voltage of 1.6VDC which is technically a low.

But back on track, a VAGcom tool picks up everything you might need, is just up to the operator to decypher it and utilize it to the best of the present ability.

[A4SoftWalker]

Well assuming your switch is bad.... you can splice two wires from inside the trunk to dangle outside your car...when you need to open the trunk, simply short the 2 wires.

RFLOL... I luv it My trunk's been like this for 2 or 3 years or so. No one has a fix that is easier than hitting the remote fob or door buttons.

Twisting/shorting the 2 wires ... ... hilarious.

[A4orce84]

when i got my car back from the shop i had the same problem.....there is a keyhole for the truck the locks an unlocks the soft release

did u try that>

Read Post #16 please.

[SpacemanSpiff]

He picked up a short, VAG tool picks up shorts to ground there engineer.

A short to ground will be the same thing as you think an open would be except that you're reading the nominal voltage of 1.6VDC which is technically a low.

I'm plenty clear on the difference between a short and an open. If you had taken the time to actually read what I posted as opposed to just trying to look smart, you'd have had a better chance at understanding what I'm talking about. The discussion had moved to a known problem with corroded switch contacts causing the switch to no longer make proper contact when actuated. If that is in fact the case, the circuit is broken (known as an "open", not a "short"). Given that the normal resting state of a switch like this is to not pass electricity (again, a phenomenon known as an "open"), then how is VAG-COM going to be able to read that there's corroded switch contacts rather than just a switch that isn't being actuated?

I never insinuated that VAG-COM cannot detect a short, I was simply saying this theory (if true) would not manifest itself in the same way as Dillon's short did. Read a little closer next time and leave the attitude at home. You're not impressing anyone.

[pj joe]

Hello guys. I have encountered similar problem today. I can't open the trunk with my remote or the switch on the trunk. The only way to open it is with the key. I have checked the system and found something that has never posted by anyone so far.

As an initial check, I tested the mechanical parts and everything works okay. Then I go to the actuator. I took it out and reconnect to the wire. I found that if I leave it for a few minutes, the actuator will pull back all the way to the end, hold for half a second and come back out to normal position. But if I press the repeat the action, the actuator will pull back about 80% and immediately back out. Repeat again 50% out and back. Repeat again 30%... and eventually nothing happen. If I leave it for another few minutes, it is able to do a full range again. I manually push the actuator in (when unplugged), what I feel is that this is not a solenoid. It is in DC motor with gear and is spring loaded. When powered, the motor turn and pull the lever in. When power is out, the spring bring the lever out again.

With the actuator unplugged, I measure the DC voltage from the plug. When I press the switch or remote, the voltage jump to 18V and drop to 12V very quickly, and then back to 0. If I repeat, the time interval from 18V to 12V to 0 is shortened. After repeating the process several times, the voltage just go up and jump back instantly.

My assumption is: the problem that I have is not from the latch, the actuator, or fraction. There is something wrong with electronics. I believe the "hold" of the voltage is done via a capacitor somewhere that store sufficient charge. When the remote or switch is pressed, the capacitor release sufficient charge to power the actuator. The actuator will pull the lever all the way in. When the charge are all released, the spring on the actuator bring the lever back to normal position.

If the capacitor assumption is correct, then I may have a dying capacitor that cannot normally charge, or a bad resistor that significantly slow down the charging process.

How to fix it? So far I have no idea. I couldn't find any hints or information on the internet to pin point this problem. I also couldn't find useful information from the service manual.

[ysn81]

Hey, I have a similar problem with my 2004 AUDI A4. The trunk is not opened when I use my remote car key and the button besides the driver seat.

However, it works well when I go inside to the trunk through the back seat. What I found was that if I tried to open it through electrically (remote sensor, the button besides the driver seat and open the trunk holding the trunk part by hand), it didn't work. But if I tried to open it through mechanically, (meaning that manually rotate the lever inside the trunk) it works.

This is the second time I suffered from. First time, I brought my car to dealer and they said it is coming from alignment problem. They charged me 1hr labor fee and didn't change any parts. But now, it is coming one more time. Do you have any suggestion? I guess I need to take control box out and see what happen inside.

[renatovirella]

my trunk release button and trunk button on the door doesnt work, any solutions ?

[Myst420]

my trunk release button and trunk button on the door doesnt work, any solutions ?

use the key. j/k It sounds like the actuator in the trunk has gone bad. You can probably find the wiring, and supply 12v directly to it to see if it moves.

another thought.....does your remote trunk release work?

[renatovirella]

use the key. j/k It sounds like the actuator in the trunk has gone bad. You can probably find the wiring, and supply 12v directly to it to see if it moves.

another thought.....does your remote trunk release work?

the remote trunk release works

[LordO]

the remote trunk release works

I had the same problem, I replaced the switch and it solved it.

[renatovirella]

Where did you get the switch from ?


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[LordO]

Where did you get the switch from ?

ebay

[onceover]

I find that my switch works sparodically.

It will always work with the remote or the button inside the door, but only occasionally work with the button on the trunk. This makes me think there is a fault in the CCM because the trunk is likely programmed to open when the car is unlocked with the button on the trunk, but work when both locked and unlocked with the remote and button inside the door.

Any ideas?

[seanf86]

I find that my switch works sparodically.

It will always work with the remote or the button inside the door, but only occasionally work with the button on the trunk. This makes me think there is a fault in the CCM because the trunk is likely programmed to open when the car is unlocked with the button on the trunk, but work when both locked and unlocked with the remote and button inside the door.

Any ideas?

I had the exact same problem trunk works except for the soft touch, turned out a wire in the boot connecting the lid to the body had broken, soldered in a whole new section into the trunk thru the boot and into the body and it works like a champ.

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[john_gonzo]

...turned out a wire in the boot connecting the lid to the body had broken, soldered in a whole new section into the trunk thru the boot and into the body and it works like a champ.

Accessing trunk lid wires:

[A4alaska]

I would like to refresh this topic because:

1. I didn't really see a solution
2. I have a similar issue

My issue:

- the soft touch button or the button at the drivers door does not open the trunk
- the key fob DOES open the trunk.

Question:
- any ideas on the cause?

[john_gonzo]

I would like to refresh this topic because:

1. I didn't really see a solution
2. I have a similar issue

My issue:

- the soft touch button or the button at the drivers door does not open the trunk
- the key fob DOES open the trunk.

Question:
- any ideas on the cause?

Since your key fob does open the trunk, the wiring in pics I posted 4 years ago is good.

Button at drivers door not working? Could be caused by broken wires in door harness (by hinges).

Soft touch button at trunk lid not working? Could be caused by corroded wiring/contacts behind the soft button.


8E08275763FZ
Housing w/gasket
$103.66

8E0827566
Release button
$70.81

Lens with seal and metal contacts for bulb
8E0807430A
$51.10 for two

(Prices are from 2014)

[A4orce84]

I would like to refresh this topic because:

1. I didn't really see a solution
2. I have a similar issue

My issue:

- the soft touch button or the button at the drivers door does not open the trunk
- the key fob DOES open the trunk.

Question:
- any ideas on the cause?

It always warms my heart to see a thread I created 5+ years ago at this point be brought back to life! =)

Question:
- any ideas on the cause?

The root-cause to my issue was the actual soft touch trunk release switch (the solenoid inside the switch) went bad. I could still open the trunk from inside the car (driver's door switch), with the key in the lock cylinder at the trunk assembly location, and with the trunk release button on the key FOB itself.


1. I didn't really see a solution
I ended up purchasing a replacement part, and I think even ECS sells the switch separately these days:
Link - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ton/8e0827566/


After replacing the soft touch trunk release, everything started working again correctly.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I would look into replacing the soft touch trunk release switch as a means of initial troubleshooting. Let us know if you run into any additional problems or have any other questions.


Thanks,
Asif

[A4alaska]

thanks A4orce;

yes, my situation is a bit different than yours.

Here again:

My issue:

- 1. the soft touch button OR 2. the button at the drivers door DOES NOT open the trunk
- the key fob DOES open the trunk.

so it does not seem my situation is isolated to the soft switch.

Any other ideas?

[itsmatt33]

i have a spare working soft switch if anyone needs it