is this what i need?

[iNsaNiA]

took my car to the shop again today, and they told me im running lean because i need a new MAF sensor. im a little unsure if its the housing im replacing or the wires....is this the right part?
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES6105/

thanks

[tar]

yes that is a maf sensor.

[schaefer921]

before ordering it, just make sure that ur MAF is well connected .. mine was disconnected and i couldnt see it and the dealer gave me the same bull.. but all they had to do was secure it back on and it perfectly fine

[Seerlah]

That is a good price on a brand new MAF. Just be sure that it is the one for your vehicle. Not all MAFs are compatable. For example, I have an 01 and use the MAF from the B6 A4.

You may also want to try some CRC MAF cleaner (found at your local auto parts store) before dishing out money on a new MAF. Never hurts to try.

[iNsaNiA]

You may also want to try some CRC MAF cleaner (found at your local auto parts store) before dishing out money on a new MAF. Never hurts to try.

just apply it to the sensor using some sort of cloth or what?...then again...i bet it has directions on the container haha

[Seerlah]

Yes, it has directions on the bottle. You take the sensor out of the airbox, attach the straw to the CRC MAF cleaner, and give it a couple quick sprits on the element inside the MAF housing. Lay it on a rag and just let it airdry in maybe 1-2 min. It is a chemical compound, so the left over residue basically evaporates.

[iNsaNiA]

ill head to advanced auto tomorrow and pick some up. if it is successful, will the cel just turn off after a period of driving? or is it one of those i have to get cleared?

[Seerlah]

You have to clear the CEL via OBD II scanner or VAG Com. The Autozone scanners will do just fine for this issue, but you may want to invest in a VAG Com later on down the road.

You would want to first try the CRC MAf cleaner before purchasing a new MAF. After you spray the MAf and replace it, take your car to Autozone, scan the car, write down the codes, clear the codes (this will make the CEL go away), and post what codes you pulled on here (makes it easy for us to try and assist you in any way we can). After that, we will see if the CEL returns and if the CRC MAF cleaner fixed your MAF issue.

When was the last time you changed your air filter? A dirty air filter leads to a dirty MAF. A dirty MAF leads to a faulty MAF.

[Coopa]

I'm not so sure all b5's need to have the cel deleted? I must have had a dirty air filter and I got a cel randomly one day. Cleaned the maf with the proper cleaner, put it back in and the cel was gone when I started the car up.

[iNsaNiA]

well i bought the CRC and did the necessary cleaning. the cel was still on afterwards, so i hopped in and headed off to autozone. im tootling along in limp mode (or so i think) and then i approach a hill. while going up the hill i notice the car boost rather high (for limp mode) and i look down at my boost gauge and its at 11-12 psi....as opposed to the 5 psi i had been seeing. now the cel was still on, so im not sure what was going on there. normal boost is holding 15-16 on my chip, its a GIAC, not sure which, it was on the car when i purchased it. i got to autozone had them clear the code, and voila! back to normal boosting. took about a 20 minute drive afterwards, no cel! so im hoping its gone forever! haha. any ideas what was going on with the 11-12? i tested it WOT and it stil maxed at about 12.....hmmm....

[Seerlah]

Limp mode is 5psi. I would suggest you do a boost leak test, as I have a high conjecture that is where your boost pressure is disapearing to. Having a leak can place you into limp mode for running lean, and so could a faulty MAF. So, we will take into consideration that the CRC MAF cleaner did the trick. Now, we need to find out why you are boosting 11-12psi when you should be seeing around 16psi. Personally, I think you should be seeing around 18psi. What file tune do you have (91 or 93)?

And do a boost leak test. This is the technique I use. The best thing to use would be an air compressor with gauge on it (I have a cheap 3 gallon one I got on ebay). Or you can get an air tank from a place like Walmart or something and add a gauge with nozzle to be able to regulate pressure. Then pressurise your system to 15psi. If you have a leak, you should be able to hear it right away. And I am pretty sure you have one (or two, or 3, etc).

Anyone of these 3 gallon compressors would be perfect for just checking boost leaks. Good investment if you plan on keeping your car for a while and keeping it healthy. I test my system at least twice a year.

[iNsaNiA]

thanks for your input, i plan on investing in those.
do you think i have a boost leak right now even though i am boosting 16psi? it was only at 11-12psi until i turned off the cel. now its back to normal, holding strong at 16....ill have to check it again tomorrow, but it does overboost from somewhere 18-20psi, then falls back to 16 throughout the rpms.
however i'll go ahead and acquire the necessary equipment to conduct a boost leak test, in the mean time, i'll keep an eye out for the return of that cel.

i took it to German Performance Options in nashville to have it diagnosed. he said he checked for vacuum leaks but didnt find any and that is what led him to believe it was the MAF (they logged fuel trims on VAGCOM as well) does this mean he didnt check for a boost leak? i assumed the terms were interchangable...am i mistaken?

-EDIT- i don't know what file tune i have, I bought the car last february and the PO said it was a GIAC chip, is there any way to find out which one?

[Seerlah]

If you can get into contact with the person you purchased the vehicle from, that would be the easiest route.

But if the mechanic said that he did a boost leak test and found nothing, you can only take his word on it. The thing now, is if he is trust worthy or not. I know I can trust my mechanic. And spiking 18-20psi is what I consider a healthy boost number. Having it taper doown to 16psi is normal.

If what you are saying is all true, then it seems that your car is back in working condition. I would still do a boost leak test myself and gather peices to be able to conduct it. You want to learn how to diagnose your vehicle youyrself, check for ieeues yourself, and inevitably fix it yourself. That is what I did and it saves me money in the long run. See how this simple situation just saved you a little over $100.

[iNsaNiA]

well, just to throw another wrench in the circus the light came back on!....except this time....no limp mode. i did not have time this morning to get the code. i will later this afternooon though, i'll let you know what it is when i get it. thanks for the help.

[Seerlah]

Probably a code for running lean. Just post what codes you recieve once you get the chance. You may still end up needing to replace the MAF. But having a boost leak will also cause you to run lean, so that is why you should do a boost leak test.