B7 A4 Timing Belt Change

[fly300kts]

Part 1

I was not too stuffed after the Thanksgiving meal so I decided to start the project.
For the Bumper removal, the DIY is here:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ghlight=bumper

Remove the following components:

Headlights
Intercooler scoops
Disconnect hood latch cable
Air filter intake conduit
Spark plugs (you need to do that for later)

Then, you should end up like this


Then remove the 2 front impact sensors located on each side of the radiator


Remove the front support


And under supervision of my weekly rides (my primary job )


Driver intercooler, disconnect the bottom hose
Passenger intercooler, disconnect the upper hose


Now, time to dump the coolant. Located on the bottom left corner, the valve: turn counter clockwise


When the circuit is empty, disconnect the bottom hose by lifting the clip and pulling AFT. Be gentle, everything is plastic

Insert 2 bolts on each side of the frame to be able to slide and support the front


Now, remove the screws circled in red, on both side of the car


Unplug the fans controller harness


Because I really want to have access to the front and the bench was close by, I decided to vacuum the AC. Doing so (good thing, my Freon was low); I will be able to slide the entire front end on the side.


And voila, plenty of room to access the timing belt



How easy the DV access is now


Part 2

Started this morning by removing the Alternator to access the Thermostat Assembly. Pretty straightforward: remove the 4 Allen screws and secure it on the side. No need to remove the connectors on the back.
Now, here is the beast. Pretty easy here as well: Not shown on the picture due to access, you need to remove the 2 top Allen screws of the Oil Cooler to give some slack to a metallic line connected to the valve


Valve removed


New one & old one side by side


Warning: This DIY is for information only. If you decide to use it, it’s at your own risk.

Now the timing belt:
Loosen the 6 screws of the puller Dampner (don’t remove the pulley yet)
Remove the 5 screws of the upper plastic cover
Using the Crankshaft bolt, turn clockwise until the mark on the Camshaft and Crankshaft are aligned. Because both marks could be difficult to see (especially the one on the Dampner pulley) I use a white marker to materialize them a bit better (got old eyes too).

Camshaft


Crankshaft


Now remove the 6 screws of the pulley Dampner. Remove the bottom protector. As you will see, your bottom mark is now gone so as a safety, I made another mark on the block and the bottom pulley


New reference


Now removed the nut of the Tensioner and slide out the Tensioner.


Now remove and replace the water pump as well as both idler (in red)



Slide the new belt in place.
When installing the new Tensioner, make sure that the rear tab fits completely inside the block.


Now, set the tension:
Tight barely the Tensioner nut. Using an Allen wrench, turn clockwise the center of the Tensioner until the notch is aligned with the highlighted dot. Then torque the nut with final value


All should look like this


Torque Values:




Using the crankshaft bolt, turn the shaft a complete revolution: This will center the belt on all the pulleys and use this step to control that at the end, all your marks are still aligned.

Time now to put everything back together because you are done and you save yourself a big chunk of cash.


Phil



CUSTOMER ADDITIONAL COMMENTS WHO HAVE FOLLOWED THIS DIY
a. IMPORTANT! before you do anything - read up on it and picture it in your mind doing it. do this a few times. so, your mindset is fresh and have a courage in doing it. of course, the right tools, double check everything, take lots of picture, bring a lot of patience, and take your time.

b. TB access - use Phil's DIY reference - you don't have to disconnect A/C lines - slide out and down to ground put support on radiator - you'll have plenty of room to access TB.

c. T-stat removal - disconnect top hose, remove torx screw on middle metal hose on T-stat body. pry it out with flat screw driver gently and pull middle metal hose out slightly once popped out the T-stat house and STOP. remove the two hex bolt on T-stat and slide out towards you. then pull out bottom hose (pop the clip). you'll have plenty of space and leverage to pull bottom hose. put things back in reverse order.

d: filling coolant - 2 gallons of G12 50/50 mix - squeeze/pump top and bottom coolant hose to let air out and suck in new coolant in engine. do this a few times until you hear coolant flowing on top coolant hose. if you have air, you'll see your coolant in reservoir bubble up. before starting car, leave reservoir open, put heat on HI on low fan setting, start the car and start squeezing/pumping top and bottom coolant lines. you'll feel and hear coolant flowing. run car for a few minutes to get coolant going. do this process a couple of times. put reservoir cap back on and test drive. when done test driving. let car cool down and check coolant level again. add if neccesary. Note: In adding coolant. Don't fill over MAX level. If you do, I'll make a mess.

[Blarg]

Great job so far, glad to see someone putting this together!

[ctk1]

WOW!

[spitfire11]

You're the man

[Jake39454]

Why did you remove the spark plugs?

[fly300kts]

Why did you remove the spark plugs?

Once the new timing belt will be in place with the new tensioner, you need to turn the Cranckshaft by the 12 points bolt, at list 2 revolution to:

1/ Make sure you did not make a mistake and all the references are lining up
2/ This will set the timing belt tension

If the plugs stay in place, bo way you will turn the cranck

Phil

[Jake39454]

Once the new timing belt will be in place with the new tensioner, you need to turn the Cranckshaft by the 12 points bolt, at list 2 revolution to:

1/ Make sure you did not make a mistake and all the references are lining up
2/ This will set the timing belt tension

If the plugs stay in place, bo way you will turn the cranck

Phil

19mm 12 point, I'm very familiar. It can be turned without removing the plugs, no problem. Doesn't hurt to do it, but not needed. Just wanted to make that clear.

It's nice to see people putting forth effort to do DIY's like this for B7's

[fly300kts]

I have to replace the belt anyway so it's a pleasure to share with the Community
That could save some $$ to some Fellow Ziner's in the future

Phil

[nramsey]

Nice! And so jealous of your day job. Is that a TBM?

Looks like a pretty awesome "garage" to do car work in!

[spitfire11]

Looks like a socata TBM 700

[fly300kts]

Looks like a socata TBM 700

TBM 850 to be exact but great and correct guess

Phil

[fly300kts]

Replacement done. Posted Part 2

Phil

[plokm]

Nice!!!!

[plokm]

Fly I guess you going to take that plane to my house and change my timing belt for me!!! lolz

[fly300kts]

Anytime

Phil

[Doctor]

Excellent DIY...But hey, its Phil right...What else could it be...
Way to go man...Thumbs up

[v_audi]

Outstanding write up. Thanks!

[airbornerifleman]

One again you have proven how much of an asset you are to the AZ community. Well done, Phil.

+rep from me

EDIT: Sorry Phil, it appears I cannot give you multiple reps

[illegitimus]

Phil, did you make use of the tools rental the site provided? Did you replace the accessory belt as well? How much coolant does it take to fill the system? Thanks.

[fly300kts]

Yes I rented the tools in case the Crankshaft and Camshaft seal were leaking. Because they were fine, I did not use the tool so no, you don't need the tools.
Yes, accessory belt was part of the kit I purchased so I replaced it. I also replaced the pulley (not part of the kit but only $40).
The kit I purchased comes with 2 jug of G12, 1.5l each. You need to dilute with water at 50% ratio and I used almost all of it

Phil

[illegitimus]

Yes I rented the tools in case the Crankshaft and Camshaft seal were leaking. Because they were fine, I did not use the tool so no, you don't need the tools.
Yes, accessory belt was part of the kit I purchased so I replaced it. I also replaced the pulley (not part of the kit but only $40).
The kit I purchased comes with 2 jug of G12, 1.5l each. You need to dilute with water at 50% ratio and I used almost all of it

Phil

Good to know that the tools are only required if you need to take the pulleys off. Thanks for the DIY!

[Hyphy]

Good stuff Phil

[Goped220]

Do you need to place the Thermostat when you doing the timing belt?

[Zebman]

Do you need to place the Thermostat when you doing the timing belt?

You're in there, may as well while you have the clip off versus doing it twice.

I'm excited to put 18k more miles on my car and do this. I love wrenching, especially when it makes my dad's head want to explode. Taking the entire clip off will do it!

[AWDTURBO]

Great work!

[fly300kts]

Do you need to place the Thermostat when you doing the timing belt?

As already said, better be safe than sorry and because everything was open, I've done it.
Nevetheless, Water pump is Mandatory.

Phil

[Chb04]

Phil awesome write up and I'm ready to tackle it myself! How long did it take roughly?

[fly300kts]

Count a full day at easy pace.

Phil

[fly300kts]

Outstanding write up. Thanks!

^^ Thank you

Phil

[fly300kts]

Good stuff Phil

I was waiting for you

Phil

[JRMSLINEA4]

One again you have proven how much of an asset you are to the AZ community. Well done, Phil.

+rep from me

EDIT: Sorry Phil, it appears I cannot give you multiple reps

Funny.

[Dangler]

nice

[Sal_B7]

Awesome stuff Phil!! Saw this and thought about doing it myself but i think ill leave it to the professionals. lol

Quick question?? What mileage is this required at? I looked through my maintenance book and all it said at 75K was to replace belt for 1.8T, nothing about 2.0T. I know someone got a letter from Audi saying it will be good to 110K i think? But does that include '05.5?

[Sal_B7]

Anyone know if this needs to be done at 75K?

[Dan@EuropaParts]

Hey folks. We just loaded the B7 2.0T Timing Belt Kit on the site. Check it out:

[shamrok]

Anyone know if this needs to be done at 75K?

The initial guidance was 75k, but it was revised (at least on MY06 2.0Ts) to 110k. http://microsites.audiusa.com/my09/l...enance2006.pdf. I'd print this out, bring it to the dealer and ask the service guys about what years the guidance applies to.

[Sal_B7]

^^Thanks a lot for that. Yeah i have a 05.5 so wondering if that applies to me as well. The paper says replace timing belt at 110K for 2.0T FSI only, so hopefully im in that category. Definitely going to check it out, not looking forward to forking out the $$$ for this right now. Ill give them a call tomorrow.

[eskimopunk]

Fantastic write up, + rep.

[fly300kts]

^^Thanks a lot for that. Yeah i have a 05.5 so wondering if that applies to me as well. The paper says replace timing belt at 110K for 2.0T FSI only, so hopefully im in that category. Definitely going to check it out, not looking forward to forking out the $$$ for this right now. Ill give them a call tomorrow.

Guys,

Whatever the paper says, I would not gamble with this. Yes, once removed, the belt look almost like new but I would be more concern about the Tensionner and other small bearings. If they seize, you are done and it will end up costing you more . My tensionner once removed, had a pretty consequent side play

My 2 cent but hey, what do I know

Phil

[illegitimus]

Phil, did you have to evacuate the AC system? I mean, is it needed so the radiator and the ac condenser are removed completely to gain access to the belt? Can the radiator assembly be swung away like on a B6 being hinged on one side?