DIY: EVAP Fault Code Fix

[fly300kts]

I am trying to resolve this issue for 3 weeks now and still can't figure it out . Ran the codes a month ago and the famous P1093 was there . I spent endless hours on different forums but no luck.

I would like to pick your brain on this one:

Codes cleared. When cold, I drive the car for 10mn and if I have to stop, I can feel a RPM drop for a split second to about 750 RPM but no cell. If I run the OBD, code is back.

What I already did:

Replaced main fuel filter
Checked Fuel Pump and replaced Cam follower (3000 miles ago but to make sure, I will pull the pump again this WE)
Ran the pressure test as suggested on Ross Tech (to be honnest, I am not sure what I am looking for), everything seems OK.
Checked engine bay for fuel leaks, cracked hoses - none found

Is my last solution going to the stealer, no warranty here.
Thank you for your time and your help

Phil


Possible Symptoms
Power Loss
Misfire(s)
Stalling
Possible Causes
Fuel Pressure insufficient/exceed/fluctuating
Fuel Pump (High Pressure System) faulty
Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Fuel Pressure (on FSI engines High and Low Fuel Pressure System)
Check Fuel Pump (High Pressure System)
Check Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276)
Check Fuel Filter and Filter in Fuel Pump Casing
Special Notes
When found in 2.0l TFSI:
Check Fuel Pressure
Check TSB/TPL 2008753, incompatibility between Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve (N276) and ECU software.

[Rotond0000]

I am useless here but i will say that i have had issues similar and it ended up being this: Fuel Pump (High Pressure System) faulty

so im not sure what you are looking at as far as that goes but just my,.02 based on my own issues.

[fly300kts]

Thank you Man for sharing your experience

Phil

[fly300kts]

Woaw......

[RVT]

From a quick search about the net, everything is pointing to the dreaded camshaft failure Usually found with other codes though?
Pull that pump again and have a look around....

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295208

http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/pdf/...FP_Upgrade.pdf

Hope others here have better news,
Vince

[euro20th]

could be the throttle body, possible causes front the throttle plate opening and closing a lot slower than usual! try cleaning that out

[fly300kts]

could be the throttle body, possible causes front the throttle plate opening and closing a lot slower than usual! try cleaning that out

Did that already, just forgot to mention it

Phil

[fly300kts]

From a quick search about the net, everything is pointing to the dreaded camshaft failure Usually found with other codes though?
Pull that pump again and have a look around....

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295208

http://www.awe-tuning.com/media/pdf/...FP_Upgrade.pdf

Hope others here have better news,
Vince

Agree Vince but my problem is only happening at iddle, when the fuel supply is minimum. Going to pull the pump again this WE but I doubt it's the root cause.

phil

[illegitimus]

any fuel leaks at the fuel filter area?

[fly300kts]

any fuel leaks at the fuel filter area?

Nope, dry like a bone

Phil

[JRMSLINEA4]

Try this did some research could be the front 02 sensor check out this post over on the VW forum. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3478058

[fly300kts]

Try this did some research could be the front 02 sensor check out this post over on the VW forum. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3478058

Hey Man,

Thank you for the link + Props to you
Interesting enough, I have a brand new O2 sensor in stock because few months ago, I had the code here below. It is for the S2 sensor (after Cat) but I guess, just in case, I will take the time to replace it this WE

phil

000313 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: Response too Slow
P0139 - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1368 /min
Load: 12.2 %
Speed: 65.0 km/h
Temperature: 80.0°C
Temperature: 32.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V

[JRMSLINEA4]

Hey Man,

Thank you for the link + Props to you
Interesting enough, I have a brand new O2 sensor in stock because few months ago, I had the code here below. It is for the S2 sensor (after Cat) but I guess, just in case, I will take the time to replace it this WE

phil

No problem, glad I can help. I know how fustrating it can be with many stored codes.

[casuso]

I hope those issues had something to be with leds or headlights or tailights or something light that, I am sure you would fix them in a few seconds!!

Good luck man, let us know how it goes.

[CBRmatt600]

I am at the point with this car where I am just going to drive it hard until it literally explodes, and then have them replace everything. Since the dealer is essentially useless and can't diagnose or fix my fueling problems, I don't have many other options. And I no longer really care.

Good luck though!

[fly300kts]

^^ I am not there yet.
I will keep you posted with my findings

Phil

[Murre R]

I had a similar problem a couple of months ago.. The RPM drops and jump around between 750 and 1500 when you stop for an intersection or something like that, went to the dealer several times without luck. At this point I thought it was the flap motor but I were wrong.. The problem just got worse and worse, and finally they changed the crankcase PCV valve (hope I spell it out the right way here) and the problem was solved.

Dunno if this will help you but I'll shoot it to you anyway.

[fly300kts]

I had a similar problem a couple of months ago.. The RPM drops and jump around between 750 and 1500 when you stop for an intersection or something like that, went to the dealer several times without luck. At this point I thought it was the flap motor but I were wrong.. The problem just got worse and worse, and finally they changed the crankcase PCV valve (hope I spell it out the right way here) and the problem was solved.

Dunno if this will help you but I'll shoot it to you anyway.

Thank you Man for the feedback.
I am going to check into that as well since the OEM part is not that expensive

Phil

[Murre R]

Cool, let us know how it works out.

[NastyNate]

I had a similar problem a couple of months ago.. The RPM drops and jump around between 750 and 1500 when you stop for an intersection or something like that, went to the dealer several times without luck. At this point I thought it was the flap motor but I were wrong.. The problem just got worse and worse, and finally they changed the crankcase PCV valve (hope I spell it out the right way here) and the problem was solved.

Dunno if this will help you but I'll shoot it to you anyway.

Phil, just because the intake flap motor wasn't the fix for this guy doesn't mean it's not your problem. I've got problems with mine (part on order) and it behaves like you described.

[fly300kts]

Phil, just because the intake flap motor wasn't the fix for this guy doesn't mean it's not your problem. I've got problems with mine (part on order) and it behaves like you described.

Thanks Man. I'll chack into that at well

Phil

[r3auto]

Hey all you guys with the flap motors......you do know the "stealers" as you call us have a software update for that problem. On a lot of 2.0T's is actually a campaign.

I would call on any you have and check.

As far as the PCV valve, there's also a problem with the oil separator valves on the top of the intake for leaking oil and causing all kinds of idle related problems. It's a recall also on most 2.0T's.

Hell, if it helps, PM me your VIN and I'll run it for you. I don't care where you live. Just hate seeing these babies not running right!

Hope this helps. Have a great night!

[fly300kts]

^^ possible but no luck when you are out of Warranty

Phil

[RVT]

Any more news after a weekend of poking about? Did you pull that pump?

V

[fly300kts]

Any more news after a weekend of poking about? Did you pull that pump?

V

After this WE:

1/ After Cat O2 sensor replaced. I have posted a DIY here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322073
2/ Pulled the pumped, everything is fine: Camshaft and follower are like new

Drove the car (about 100 miles) no further issue at time time. Low Idle seems to be much more stable. I'll pull the codes again at the end of the week end and let you know.

However, this code showed up (but no MIL light)

001109 - EVAP System: Large Leak Detected
P0455 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded

Because I replaced my gas tank cap less than a month ago, I am down to this now:
On order:

1/ Hose from top of crankcase (a locking tab was worn) 06F 133 781 D ($60 for a stupid plastic hose )
2/ EVAP valve: she is really noisy and only $17 - 06E 906 517 A

Phil

[plokm]

any update with the P0455

[fly300kts]

Yes and I will post some pics this WE (I am in CA at this time for business reasons)
While hunting down any possible leak, I found a broken locking collar on the hose coming off the canshaft case. Got the part from the Dealer and the replacement unit look like a freaking spider!! I understand why it cost me $60 for the spare.
Ain't going to be easy to replace but I will post a DIY this WE when I'm back to base

Phil

[fly300kts]

As promised, here is an update:

While troubleshooting the famous EVAP fault code, I found a broken clip in one of the line



Because the new part looks like a spider



I had to remove few items: PCV, Flap, etc.. and because the N80 valve was so cheap ($17) I decided to replace it as well

PCV



N80



and here is the spider




Removal and install is pretty straight forward, just couple clamps. The only PITA is a small screw under the diverter already installed with the lines (Pic #2)
New line in place and now clips on like a dream



New N80 (and the new one is much less noisy. I guess the original one was worn)



Cleared the code once again with WAGCOM and will see if this takes care of my issue. By the way, already noticed the Idle is much more stable

Phil

[plokm]

thats sucks!! You have to pay 60 bucks for just a broken clip

[golfvdude]

Mods need to add a DIY sticky for B7 people. Plenty of writeups here. It's awesome!

[Zebman]

Fuel pressure sensor? That is known to go bad. APR lost mine so I had to go buy another one. $55 dollars from the dealer.
I'm posting this because your code was fuel-related, but the symptoms don't really point towards it all that much, so I would wait on buying it until you've exhausted other options.

[JRMSLINEA4]

Sounds good, looks like your 02 sensor code is solved.

[Tusin]

Hey Sorry to bring this post back up from the dead:) But you say when you replaced the N80 that the new one is much less noisy. Can you describe the noise the old one was making? I have an odd noise that I am trying to track down and it very well could be this.

[bullomar]

Hi Tusin,

I just want to say that I had some issues with the n80 valve and I have replaced it.
It was very loud, and after removing it from its place, I wanted to compare it with the new one which was very cheap so I blew in it. I could blow through the old one and I could not blow the air through the new on. I think the why this valve is loud is some kind of a diagram inside is broken.
Anyway, I had issues when filling the gas on station, and wanting to start the car. I needed to pump the gas pedal for some time while putting it in ignition mode by key before it starts....

[a4b7]

do you happen to have the part numbers..I pulled the same large leak evap codes

[plokm]

do you happen to have the part numbers..i pulled the same large leak evap codes

06e 906 517 a

[a4b7]

thanks..i should have read the thread more closely..didnt realize it was posted before the pictures..thanks anyway!

[pierranchis]

Phil,
Might not help as much now as it could have before you bought all the stuff but maybe this can be of some help. My moms boyfriend is a salesman at Holman Audi in Pembroke Pines and granted that your car is out of warranty, he can probably get a tech to look at your car and give you some options or even a solution, computer reading, things like that for free if your up for the 15 minute drive. I'm sure my moms bf wouldn't mind helping you get any additional parts at his price neither. Just say that you know me (Pierre), and he will try to be as much help as possible. His name is Carlos Suarez. I just stumbled upon your post and thought this could help now as much as in the future. Always good to have someone on the inside you can trust.

[reggaemylitis]

Thanks for the research and DIY on this! Just took care of this N80 valve, and my check engine light went off after about 10 miles of driving! FINALLY! I have had the trouble starting after a gas fill up and gas cap CEL for a while now. Wish I hadn't wasted money on a new gas cap before I found out this was the problem!

[sfl_A4]

For the last couple of weeks I've been trying to determine what is causing my car to be seem a bit jerky, particularly at low RPM around 2000-2500 rpm, when just slightly accelerating or when tipping in the throttle. It felt like a misfire, and wasn't consistent, but it was there often enough to bother me. It's been there for a couple of months. I've tried a lot of things, including replacing the Diverter Valve (it needed it), new spark plugs and coils, new PCV valve. The timing belt and water pump were done about 15k miles ago. I didn't have a CEL, or any codes, but something was not right.

Today I finally got to replacing the N80 Purge valve, the car has 100k miles so I thought why not. Well, I think that did the trick. After just a brief drive I can tell the car is running smoother. I'll give it a few days to be sure, but early indications are good so far.

For reference, the valve in there was the original - it was date stamped 10/16/2005, and my car's build date is 11/2005. I don't know how it lasted 100k miles, but... it's gone now. Incidentally, those one-time use clamps are a nightmare! I finally had to get my Dremmel with a cutting wheel to get it off.

FYI - I was impatient and went to the dealer to buy the part, cost $30 with tax. FCP sells it for $14, literally half the price.