DIY: How to prevent your glove box hinge from breaking

[MikeWire]

Hey guys, I don't recall ever seeing anything about this, but here's a fix and a "mod" that can be done on the cheap that I did this weekend. I pulled my GB (glove box) to check out the AC motor problem I was having and noticed my right hinge was starting to crack, so I decided to find way to prevent it from cracking any further, so here's what I did.

Standard disclaimer - this is a guide, and what I did. It may or may not be similar to your car, and if you break or hurt yourself I claim no responsibility.

If your hinge is not broken and/or cracked and you don't want to break further, keep reading. If your hinge is already broken and needs repaired, the follow PCYC's DIY here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ight=glove+box

You don't need to remove the whole GB, but I had removed it anyway. I have pics from post and pre removal:

First you need to remove the hinge damper (keeps the GB from slamming open/closed). To do this, open your passenger door, and using your key, or a Flathead screwdriver pry off the dash panel to the end of the dashboard (similar to the panel that covers the fuse box on the drivers side). You will see the damper connected to the GB hinge. Remove the pin that connects the damper to the hinge with a small pair of needle nose pliers:



Then disconnect the 2 pin harness on the back of the damper - this controls the GB light on/off switch. After this is disconnected, rotate the damper up and towards the front of the vehicle, and pull out:



From here, take it to your workbench and open it up. It should look like this:



Twist the top counter-clock-wise (sorry for the pic, I turned the flash off):



Looking from the side, now pull on the top you just twisted, and it will open up:





Now, pull the plunger out and you will have this:



Now, take the damper body (the part on the left) and drill a small hole in the end of the body. I used a 1/16 drill bit:



Drilling a hole in the body will allow air into the damper body, so it will decrease the strain on the GB hinge, and prevent it from breaking or cracking further. The door will open faster, and the light switch still retains its function.

From here, reassemble the damper - reverse of disassembly. A couple of tips:

Make sure to lube the rubber plunger - I used a small amount of 3-in-1 oil. Make sure to check the function of the plunger switch. The copper contacts should connect when you pull the plunger, and disconnect when the plunger was pushed in.

Good luck!

[b6onboost]

The best way to prevent the hinge from breaking is to let gravity open the glove box after you're released the latch.

Since it doesn't open fast on its own, people tend to push it down to open it faster, almost always pushing it down too far and hyperextending/damaging the right plastic hinge.

[MikeWire]

The best way to prevent the hinge from breaking is to let gravity open the glove box after you're released the latch.

Since it doesn't open fast on its own, people tend to push it down to open it faster, almost always pushing it down too far and hyperextending/damaging the right plastic hinge.

That's best practice, but not realistic, especially when the temps up north get cold and the door decides not to open or opens so slowly it's not worth opening.

This happened on my MKIV and is really common on that platform as well as the A4 platform, and more I'm sure. On the MKIV the damper can be removed, but on the A4 this mod has to be done so the light switch still works.

I bet 90% of A4 owners could go out to their car and take a really close look at the hinge and notice it is fractured and/or broken. I did this to mine and thought I would share.

[Shak]

I absolutely love how this is posted like the same week my hinge cracks.

It's not completely cracked.. but it's pretty bad. I'll take some pictures to show you guys. Seems like a pretty need DIY.

[reapersa4]

I got mine replaced just before warranty was up and then I broke it again the next week... no warranty hahaha

[FORCE_FED_DUB]

The best way to prevent the hinge from breaking is to let gravity open the glove box after you're released the latch.

Since it doesn't open fast on its own, people tend to push it down to open it faster, almost always pushing it down too far and hyperextending/damaging the right plastic hinge.

ftw

[MikeWire]

The best way to prevent the hinge from breaking is to let gravity open the glove box after you're released the latch.

Since it doesn't open fast on its own, people tend to push it down to open it faster, almost always pushing it down too far and hyperextending/damaging the right plastic hinge.

ftw

It's not a matter of being gentle with the door, or a matter of if it breaks. It's going to break, it's just a matter of time.

Honestly I'm just trying to help those out there who have a cracked hinge. Now I know mine won't break any further and I still have the light switch working.

So thanks, and you have any positive input towards my idea please feel free to post.

[A4p]

I dont know why you guys brake that thing. It should open very nicely when you open it.

dont take you hands on it and pull it, let it slowly come by its own....

[Boosted3.0]

Instead of drilling you can open the piston and trim down the rubber gasket. Audi says that you should just lube the piston to make it open faster, however who knows how long just a lube will last.

[n7plus1]

thanks for this post...i need to do this asap. Mines not all the way broken yet, but cracked.

[doublezero30]

Instead of drilling you can open the piston and trim down the rubber gasket. Audi says that you should just lube the piston to make it open faster, however who knows how long just a lube will last.

2 pump chump!

good writeup! if i wasnt a lazy bastard ide take mine apart and check it out.

[MikeWire]

Thanks for the + guys - glad to help those who have a hinge that is already cracked but not broken. So far, mine has been working fine, with no more evidence of the hinge cracking any futher. Good suggestion Boosted, lubing the gasket would be a good alternative to drilling the hole in the plunger.

Rep is accepted BTW :)

[IVRINGS]

Instead of drilling you can open the piston and trim down the rubber gasket. Audi says that you should just lube the piston to make it open faster, however who knows how long just a lube will last.

I did this when I swaped out my broken door when a used one and it has been great for 5-6 months and still opens fast with no slow starting.

[b6onboost]

For trying to help people out. never said anything to the contrary.

I had a broken hinge. It was because I always forced the glovebox down. Now I know better, and my new one has been perfect. I simply don't force it open anymore. I disagree that they are all going to break regardless of how you treat it.

thanks for telling me when i should post though

It's not a matter of being gentle with the door, or a matter of if it breaks. It's going to break, it's just a matter of time.

Honestly I'm just trying to help those out there who have a cracked hinge. Now I know mine won't break any further and I still have the light switch working.

So thanks, and you have any positive input towards my idea please feel free to post.

[MikeWire]

Alright man, I didn't post up this idea to compete in a pissing match on the lifespan of a B6 glove box hinge.

Not forcing the door is a obviously one step for prevention, so I appreciate the input. But regardless, the damper obviously puts undue stress on the hinge, causing it to break eventually - the older the car/glove box door/damper is the more stress is put on the hinge causing cracking or breaking. Colder climates exaggerate the problem as the plastic becomes more brittle at lower temps.

So...to prevent a broken/cracked hinge, or if your hinge is cracked, you can give this a try.

My previous comment was not directed at you, and was said to keep all the posts on the positive side.

Does anyone know if Audi has revised the hinge on new replacement GB's or newer B6's?

[forevraudi]

thanks for the R&D +rep

[layzie]

finally got around to doing this. the plunger moves so much more freely now. i cant believe how hard it was for that to move back and fourth

[old guy]

Here is another tip to keep the hinge from breaking. Once you take out the glove box look at how the hinge is constructed. The hinge has a "honeycomb" construction to save on material and weight. If you fill the honeycomb section it will greatly increase the strength of the hinge. You can either mix a two part epoxy and drip it in or use something like Pig Putty or J.B. Weld to fill the voids. Either way you should be good to go.

[3vom]

Here is another tip to keep the hinge from breaking. Once you take out the glove box look at how the hinge is constructed. The hinge has a "honeycomb" construction to save on material and weight. If you fill the honeycomb section it will greatly increase the strength of the hinge. You can either mix a two part epoxy and drip it in or use something like Pig Putty or J.B. Weld to fill the voids. Either way you should be good to go.

Thats what I did too. Works great and holding up nicely!

[BARRY]

mine broke because it was a hot day, and i guess i overpack my glove box because of the users manual. the consistant pressure on the door caused it to break.

[old guy]

mine broke because it was a hot day, and i guess i overpack my glove box because of the users manual. the consistant pressure on the door caused it to break.

Look underneath the steering wheel. there is a slot that is specifically for the storage of the owners manual. No need to put it in the glove box.

[Blitzkrieg989]

I tried using white lithium grease for lubricant. I loaded up the plunger with it and my plunger is still stuck pretty hard in there. Should I make a bigger hole?

[n7plus1]

sand the rubber down. I really wish i wouldve done this on teh 2nd of the month when i said i would. Now my shit fucking is completely cracked in half...dammit...time to get out the epoxy...

[phoX]

Not sure why some are knocking your posts... seems unnecessary?

I really appreciate your posts Mike. It's helped me a lot in restoring an A4 I picked up.

[MikeWire]

I tried using white lithium grease for lubricant. I loaded up the plunger with it and my plunger is still stuck pretty hard in there. Should I make a bigger hole?

I used a light oil - grease may be a little heavy and/or could be forcing it back out the hole you just drilled. As long as you have the 1/16th hole you should have released the pressure buildup behind the plunger and the plunger should slide in and out freely. It only takes a little amount of lube to do the job .

Not sure why some are knocking your posts... seems unnecessary?

I really appreciate your posts Mike. It's helped me a lot in restoring an A4 I picked up.

Thanks phoX...I don't understand the negative posts either, but I suppose you can't please everyone ALL of the time . Since I have had my car, I have had things I needed to repair or fix. So, if I have a good idea to fix something on my car, and I think it will help others out I try to document it and post a DIY or a fix, that's all.

Glad it helped you out, and I do accept +rep if my post helped anyone.

[Blitzkrieg989]

I used a light oil - grease may be a little heavy and/or could be forcing it back out the hole you just drilled. As long as you have the 1/16th hole you should have released the pressure buildup behind the plunger and the plunger should slide in and out freely. It only takes a little amount of lube to do the job .

Thanks man I will give it a shot! oh and +rep for this write up

[BARRY]

Look underneath the steering wheel. there is a slot that is specifically for the storage of the owners manual. No need to put it in the glove box.

everytime i drive to work the thing ejects and hits my shin...not safe at 90+mph every morning. lol

[asinclado]

very useful DIY for a very common problem. i need to check mine, still works but will check for any cracks. repped.

[jstcalmebatman]

mine just recracked due to the weather ill try and do this next.

[B6AVANTUSP]

you guys are always late... mine broke already...cracked on the left side dont know how but.... i feel im annoyed now how can i fix it ???

[MikeWire]

you guys are always late... mine broke already...cracked on the left side dont know how but.... i feel im annoyed now how can i fix it ???

From the original post:

If your hinge is not broken and/or cracked and you don't want to break further, keep reading. If your hinge is already broken and needs repaired, the follow PCYC's DIY here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ight=glove+box

[Blitzkrieg989]

ugh well the 3in1 oil didnt work... it made it easier to pull out yet it still wont budge when i put everything back together... time to get the dremel out... ill post a sub DIY to go along with mikes awesome write up so far!!

[MikeWire]

ugh well the 3in1 oil didnt work... it made it easier to pull out yet it still wont budge when i put everything back together... time to get the dremel out... ill post a sub DIY to go along with mikes awesome write up so far!!

Wow really? Hmmm, you maybe have the rubber washer/plunger reversed? Is the plastic arm in the plunger assembly the correct way? It's so simple, something isn't correct there

[Blitzkrieg989]

Wow really? Hmmm, you maybe have the rubber washer/plunger reversed? Is the plastic arm in the plunger assembly the correct way? It's so simple, something isn't correct there

HAHAHA wow i am an idiot I put the plunger in the correct way but upside down so that the contact point/ plastic arm piece was being blocked hahahaha.... Thanks for the DIY again man! +rep again

[L Suetro]

-A quick revision/update-

I know it is unnecessary to seperate the "cap"(lack of better term) from the body.

As I have just struggled with trying to seperate the two. I only got mine to turn counter clockwise about a quarter of an inch but would not seperate-(tried to pull apart)

1- I then proceeded to simply return "cap"(lack of better term) to original locked position then pulled piston/plunger out to full extenstion.

2- With piston/plunger fully extended I drilled my 1/16" hole -READ AND FOLLOW TIP-below
(TIP wear eye protection, hold piston up, switch drill to reverse and drill your 1/16th" hole in the 12'o-clock postion on back of piston housing applying pressure gradually to allow shavings to fall down and not into housing [thats why drill is in reverse]) in hinesight I should have done this [mine was drilled in middle.] The 12' o-clock position allows gravity to pull down oil to 6'o-clock position and retain all oil/lube; removing the possibility of the oil/lube being pumped back out of the 1/16th" air hole.

3- Now all you have to do is take your lubing oil mine- "Marvel Lubricating Oil" and pour a small amount into a cap or cup and place the back of the housing with hole into cup and draw the fluid up/in like a syringe. turn level and lubricate to your satisfaction.

4- Wipe excess and re-install and blamo you da man-amaze all your non drilled A4 friends-in no time you'll be the envy of the bunch.

[MikeWire]

Hmm interesting, I wonder why your cap wouldn't turn the full 1/4 turn. Good tip for anyone with a similar issue.

[Lusticles]

i just took everything out of the glovebox aside from the owners manual and registration

not worth opening not that my hinges are actually broken