Torque Wrench for Spark Plugs?

[jackp311]

Curious how many of you actually use a torque wrench when tightening spark plugs. Please answer yes if you use a torque wrench or no if you tighten by hand.

[JoMiDo88]

i never have. should i?

[eweu]

Why wouldn't one use a torque wrench? It's an easy way to make sure you've completed the job perfectly.

[Eddie Man]

Why wouldn't one use a torque wrench? It's an easy way to make sure you've completed the job perfectly.

Agreed...
My sense for most nuts and bolts is to tighten it "tight" and most of the time for general items I overtighten.
Overtightening spark plugs could result in breakage and worst yet snap-off into the block.
Conversely, undertightening could result in vacuum issues and misfires.

[jackp311]

Agreed...
My sense for most nuts and bolts is to tighten it "tight" and most of the time for general items I overtighten.
Overtightening spark plugs could result in breakage and worst yet snap-off into the block.
Conversely, undertightening could result in vacuum issues and misfires.

I have always done it by hand. I twist the extension by hand and then come back at the end and torque them down by going about another 3/8's of a turn or so.

[mad70sx]

In my opinion plugs should always be torqued to mfg's specs. Especially with aluminum heads. It's pretty easy to overtighten the plugs,not using a torque wrench,stripping out the threads. Carefully thread them by hand,but they should always be torqued to spec,imo.

[JAW714]

Yes

[jackp311]

In my opinion plugs should always be torqued to mfg's specs. Especially with aluminum heads. It's pretty easy to overtighten the plugs,not using a torque wrench,stripping out the threads. Carefully thread them by hand,but they should always be torqued to spec,imo.

Well, I will be purchasing a torque wrench soon. I will always use it from now on. Provided the plugs come back out okay, is there any unseen damage that I might have caused? I have always done them this way on my 1.8T and never had any problems. That is an aluminum head as well.

[Siggiepop]

very experienced mechanics i know do it by hand/feel and has never had a sparkplug break on them.

[mad70sx]

very experienced mechanics i know do it by hand/feel and has never had a sparkplug break on them.

Ding,ding,ding!!! We have a winner!

Someone not as experienced,imo,should carefully thread them in by hand and then torque to spec. I've seen many a novice wrench spinner strip the threads by overtightening or crossthreading.

[mad70sx]

Well, I will be purchasing a torque wrench soon. I will always use it from now on. Provided the plugs come back out okay, is there any unseen damage that I might have caused? I have always done them this way on my 1.8T and never had any problems. That is an aluminum head as well.

I would imagine that you would know if you damaged the threads after taking the plugs out. I would think they would be difficult to back out of the threads were damaged.

I'm not saying you have to use a torque wrench. If you are comfortable not using one,then don't.

[craiglieberman]

Ding,ding,ding!!! We have a winner!

Someone not as experienced,imo,should carefully thread them in by hand and then torque to spec. I've seen many a novice wrench spinner strip the threads by overtightening or crossthreading.

"experienced mechanics" LOL Doing warranty claims analysis for NGK for six years taught me one thing: all the experience in the world does little to combat laziness. 99% of engine damage that seemed to focus around spark plugs was the result of an incorrectly torqued plug.

Overtighten means a cracked insulator, or breached seal leading to poor heat transfer, over heating of the plug tip, detonation and cylinder damage.

Under tightened means all of the above, except a cracked insulator and more rapid damage.

Remember: spark plugs REMOVE heat, they do NOT create it. Anything that impairs a plug's ability to remove heat effectively (including incorrect heat range or gap) WILL have consequences.

[beemercer]

Nah, I only have a Snap-On 1/2" torque wrench at home and it starts at 50 ft/lbs. I normally tighten it until I feel that crush washer stretch out and then a little bit more.

[40valve]

Hand tighten

[D.K]

<--- does not use a torque wrench.

[Audi0s]

You can feel the washer crush, and it stops. Some plugs give you directions on the box, 1/2 to 3/4 turn after washer contacts head. Of course, things were different before I did it for a living. I would definitely recommend one to more inexperienced DIY's.

[szinkuti]

have replaced thousands of plugs....all vw/audi and have never used a torque wrench.....you get the "feeling" for it.....but for someone who is not familiar i would highly recommend a torque wrench.....

[Lugi20]

I don't see why you wouldn't use a torque wrench if the manufacturer gives you specifications? Laziness? I mean, you have to use SOME kind of wrench, why not the one that gives you the most piece of mind?

[jackp311]

So mixed answers. But, it seems as though the majority of people do not use a wrench. So, for those folks and for me, if the plug comes back out. Is there any risk I had of over torquing them? In other words, is there some unseen unnoticed damage that I might have caused?

[handyvorb]

Just a little interesting thing to think about, the most accurate method of tightening a bolt is by measuring degrees of rotation, not torque applied. This is why Audi head bolts and other very sensitive bolts have you use this method.

As already mentioned NGK labels their box with amount of rotation to tighten the plug and not a torque.

Anyone having to ask this question better be using a torque wrench, as this is one expensive engine to quickly f' up making a mistake here. The only people I've ever seen damage cylinder head threads tightening a spark plug are newbies however, still not worth the risk.

[joeycuccaro]

I use a torque wrench on plugs, but i set it to 20ft pounds instead of 22ft pds. You have to be really careful when torquing spark plugs. The last thing you want to do is snap the head off a plug.

[Audi0s]

So mixed answers. But, it seems as though the majority of people do not use a wrench. So, for those folks and for me, if the plug comes back out. Is there any risk I had of over torquing them? In other words, is there some unseen unnoticed damage that I might have caused?

Worst case is pulling the threads out of the head. But youd have to really go nuts on them.

[jackp311]

Worst case is pulling the threads out of the head. But youd have to really go nuts on them.

Alright. So, next plug change, if all is well, then no damage done, right?

[handyvorb]

If you can torque your new plugs to spec then all is well.

[Mr. Goodwood]

Torque everything to spec.

If you have torque wench why not use it. takes the guess work out.

[Lugi20]

So mixed answers. But, it seems as though the majority of people do not use a wrench.

I know this is semantics and you meant torque wrench, but my previous point was that you have to use some kind of socket wrench to get down in there. If you have a torque wrench, why wouldn't you just pick that one up, set it to 22 lb's, and use that instead of a standard 3/8" socket wrench?

You're talking about 15 more seconds of your life to adjust the wrench to whatever setting it needs to be on.

[jackp311]

I know this is semantics and you meant torque wrench, but my previous point was that you have to use some kind of socket wrench to get down in there. If you have a torque wrench, why wouldn't you just pick that one up, set it to 22 lb's, and use that instead of a standard 3/8" socket wrench?

You're talking about 15 more seconds of your life to adjust the wrench to whatever setting it needs to be on.

At this point, it has been a case of not owning one. Not wanting to buy cheap things, I am holding out to get a nice torque wrench.

[justinperkins]

If you have torque wench why not use it. takes the guess work out.

Because not everything that has a specific torque is easily accessible with a big ass torque wrench. Maybe the spark plugs aren't a good example but the control arms sure as hell are. The uppers call for a similar torque as the plugs but there is no way you're getting a torque wrench in there while the control arms are at curb weight.

Once you start throwing extensions and universal joints in the mix, the torque you are applying to the wrench is not going to be the same as the torque applied to the threads.

[eviltech]

What would be a good torque wrench for sparks?
Are these good any good?

Craftsman Professional Torque Wrench, 3/8 in. Drive 15 to 75 ft./lbs.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...orque+Wrenches


SK 3/8" 50 ft.lb. Dial Torque Wrench
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...orque+Wrenches

[Speedymon]

I use a torque wrench on plugs, but i set it to 20ft pounds instead of 22ft pds. You have to be really careful when torquing spark plugs. The last thing you want to do is snap the head off a plug.

Is this right? I thought the correct torque was much lower? Or at least measured in in/lbs

[ChronicTeutonic]

Is this right? I thought the correct torque was much lower? Or at least measured in in/lbs

http://www.audizine.com/wiki/index.p...Specifications

or

30 newton meter = 22.126864418 pound foot

[dparm]

Always use a torque wrench. I don't understand why this needs to be a poll. Audi doesn't specify torque specs for fun...

[Audi0s]

Evil, either wrench will work, and both are decent wrenches. Unless you have an SK tool guy, Id just run down to sears and grab the Craftsman. Also, while storing it, turn the wrenchs torque settings all the way down, it will keep it accurate for longer.

[eviltech]

Audi0s: thanks bro. Sears dont even sell the one i link in store. I have to order it online. Just curious, how much can a sk tool guy hook up on tools.... like 20 percent off retail or something? Also!, whats your opinion on digital t-wrenches?

this one sells around the same price as the sears clicker
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...5177_200365177

[dparm]

Avoid cheap ones. They're horribly inaccurate, fall out of calibration quickly, and just feel cheap. I prefer a non-digital one...less to break, easier to care for.

[handyvorb]

Avoid cheap ones. They're horribly inaccurate, fall out of calibration quickly, and just feel cheap. I prefer a non-digital one...less to break, easier to care for.

I second this.

The only digital torque wrench I would use is Snap-on (cost approx. $600).

For the hobbyist Craftsman click type FTW. I have a Craftsman 3/8" click type for at home that shows both newton meters and ft. lbs, easy to read whole numbers. It cost like $89.

[dparm]

That's the exact one I use. :-)

[eviltech]

kool. the 80 dollar craftman's range is 25-250 ft-lb, tho. I just bought that one too and im about to return it to get the 0-50 ft-lb one...

[Audi0s]

Haha tool guys rarely do good deals. Sometimes Snap On has "sales" but stuff is still really, really expensive. I guess Im a tool snob, I can never say no lol. That 1/2" electric impact guy kicks ass.

[Tugboatguy]

I always use a torque wrench when working with aluminum components. The "Professionals" who don't might not have noticed any problems, but the threads they weakened by over tightening usually fail eventually. Manuals have pages with Torque spec's for a reason, not just to waist paper.
If you can afford it get two, a 0-50 and 25-250 then your covered