First thing first, I can not accept any liabilities for the following information; you do this at your own risk. These text/pictures are provided to detail how I did my retrofit. Again, proceed at own risk.
For retrofitting the trip computer into my car, this is what I did. Read below:
1. Got the parts I needed
A wiper stalk – can purchase by looking at classifieds in the site (need part number)
Washer bottle sensor: 7M0 919 376
Contact Housing (plug): 1J0 973 202
Connector Wires: 000 979 009A
Connector Wires: 000 979 133A
2. Coded the car (taken from:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...nction+display )
When reading background info on doing the retrofit, I noticed everybody installed the wiper stalk first, then coded the car and grounded pin #1 as to not have the washer empty warning, then installed the washer sensor. When I did my install, I installed the wiper stalk and washer sensor then tried to code. I think when the cluster got additional info from the washer sensor that wasn’t supposed to be there, it freaked out and wouldn’t let me in to code. I had to ground pin #, code, then re-connect washer sensor. This is why I recommend coding first, then doing the install.
Instrument Cluster Module 17
A019,0,Additional Features
A019,5,Additional Features
A019,6,?xxxx: Illumination
A019,7,0 = Needle and Scale only active at "Light ON"
A019,8,1 = Needle already active at "Ignition ON"
A019,9,2 = Scale already active at "Ignition ON"
A019,10,3 = Scale (2nd Map) and Needle at "Ignition ON" active
A019,11,x?xxx: Board computer
A019,12,0 = only Level 2 (Long Time Memory)
A019,13,1 = Level 1 and 2
A019,14,xx?xx: Driver Information System (DIS)
A019,15,0 = DIS
A019,16,1 = Highline without DIS
A019,17,2 = DIS with Menu Guide
A019,18,3 = DIS with Menu Guide and Unit Changing
A019,19,xxx?x: Lap Timer
A019,20,+1 = Lap Timer active (RS4 only)
A019,21,xxxx?: Remote Clock
A019,22,+1 = Remote Clock active
A019,23,+2 = Sport Seats installed (RS4 only)
C00,Steering Wheel Electronics (J527) Coding
C01,0?xxx: Steering Wheel
C02,0 = Standard (without Multifunction)
C03,1 = 3-Spoke Steering Wheel (Sport Steering Wheel)
C04,2 = Multifunction Steering Wheel with Radio Control
C05,3 = Multifunction Steering Wheel with Radio/Telephone Control
C06,4 = Multifunction Steering Wheel with Radio/Telephone/Voice Control
C07,5 = Multifunction Steering Wheel with Radio/Voice Control
C08,0x?xx: Options
C09,+1 = Tiptronic
C10,0xx?x: Board Computer & Cruise Control
C11,0 = Board Computer & Cruise Control not installed
C12,1 = Board Computer installed
C13,2 = Cruise Control installed
C14,4 = Board Computer & Cruise Control installed
C15,0xxx?: Rear Wiper (Chassis)
C16,1 = Rear Wiper not installed (Sedan/Cabriolet)
C17,2 = Rear Wiper installed (Avant)
I opted to have to have onboard computer functionality with level 1 and 2 (read owner’s manual for description of both).
3. Remove Battery
After I removed the battery, I made sure by testing that power was off. This is a very important step because the next step is to remove the air bag.
4. Install Wiper Stalk
Remove screws from bottom of steering wheel column. There should be two Torx on either side and an Allen down the middle. Picture 1 (items 7 and 8) shows the two Torx screws.
Remove air bag (I made sure you didn’t skip step 3) by loosening two Torx screws in the back of the steering wheel as shown in Picture 2.
Once air bag is off, unplug it and the holding screw for the steering wheel will be exposed as shown in Picture 3. It can be removed with a T55.
After the wheel holding crew is off, I marked the location of the steering wheel on the teeth pattern so that I could put it back exactly as it was (if not, the ESP icon will light up when the car is on and the wheel will be crooked). My marking is shown on Picture 4.
After the steering wheel is off, I could see the cancelling ring with steering sensor (shown in Picture 5 and Picture 1, item #10). The ring should come off by gently pulling it straight out. The wiper stalk can then be unscrewed and replaced by the new one.
When putting the wheel back together, I used a torque wrench and blue Loc-Tite to secure it in place with the T55. Torqued up to 50nm as described here (
http://www.tyresmoke.net/forum/audi-...-a4-b6-12.html )
5. Install Washer Level Sensor
The left front wheel and wheel well cover had to come off. In some forums I read that installing the sensor was as simple as reaching in, removing the plug and sticking the sensor in. I had to remove the lower washer bottle to do this. It doesn’t have to come off completely as the place where the sensor goes can be seen if one twists the bottle to one side as shown in Picture 6.
After the sensor is in place, one of the wires has to be grounded, I used the nearby ground terminal shown in Picture 7 (the yellow repair wire can be seen in the picture). Others have used the ground in the back of the instrument cluster. In retrospect, I should have used that one as to not have any yellow repair wire showing.
The wires were routed through the inside of the wheel well to the drive’s side of the well. A set of rubber nipples that are hidden by the wheel well liner can be used to bring the wire(s) to the inside of the cabin (ran out of space in camera, no pics from here on…).
I removed the instrument cluster by first removing the trim and then the screws behind it that hold the cluster in place. The blue plug that houses pin one, was behind the tachometer. There was a wire there already; I piggy backed the wire from the sensor in to it. To remove the plug, I had to lift the orange lock carefully with a flat head screw driver and then pulled it out.
Once the soldering was done, I replaced the connector and put everything back together. Re-plug the battery and enjoy trip functionality.
That’s how I did it. Cheers,
V4.0
Originally Posted by Quattro
. I suspect the washer sensor is a switch that completes a ground connection and goes open circuit when the fluid is low.
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