D.I.Y.- Cam lock bar for 2.8 Timing Belt

[somebody5788]

So since I had to take the cam sprockets off on the last timing belt I did on a 2.8 I decided I would go ahead and make a lock bar to do it 100% correct. Cost me about 13 bux in materials 8 for the steel bar at Lowes and the rest for misc hardware.

What you need:
1x 3'x2"x 3/16" "Welding Steel" plate from Lowes (I found it near the mail boxes)
1x 1" hole saw or equivilant to drill a 1" hole in 3/16" steel
2x 6x30mm bolts w/ nuts and lock washers
2x 8x30mm bolts w/ nuts and lock washers
Appropriate drill bit's for both bolt sizes (I cannot read the drill bits anymore sorry and mine were a tiny bit snug which works out pretty well so you know they will not wiggle around in the holes better yet thread the holes)

May be necessary to enlarge image


Steps:
1. Draw out your grid as shown above
2. On the 2 outside lines drill your smaller hole for the 6mm bolt
3. On the 2nd line in drill your 1" hole
4. On the furthest inward lines drill your medium hole for the 8mm bolt
5. Place you 6mm bolt in it's appropriate hole then put a lock washer on and the nut and tighten but do not over tighten I made this mistake and had to get another bolt (impacts are bad!)
6. Place your 8mm bolt in it's appropriate hole then put a lock washer on and the nut and tighten.

Final product

[akaEsCo01]

Great DIY

[revbjeff]

THANK YOU.

[seanriv]

can someone do this for the crank and cam lock for a 1.8t?

[somebody5788]

can someone do this for the crank and cam lock for a 1.8t?

Since a 1.8t only has 1 pulley for cam's and then the crank its pretty unnecessary to lock them if you are careful. You can simply watch your marks carefully and it will be just fine. Basically line up your marks slide the crank a tooth or half tooth off and place the belt on the non tensioned half then move the crank back to where it goes and it will tension that side of the belt and then you can put it on all the way and release the tensioner. Check your marks again after turning the engine over by hand like 3x and if they line up your golden.

[sean1.8t]

can someone do this for the crank and cam lock for a 1.8t?

you don't need it.

you really don't need it for the 2.8 either. but i makes it a whole lot easier.

great DIY

[somebody5788]

you don't need it.

you really don't need it for the 2.8 either. but i makes it a whole lot easier.

great DIY

What he said! (finally someone agrees!)

Just noticed I am missing 1 number in the diagram. I'll get that added in there soon lol. Should be 24 3/4" as far as I know.

[somebody5788]

Alright fixed the missing number. Should be moved to DIY's...

[thetechwizards]

Just built this, Thank you! Now hoping my measurements are accurate :)

[levdeb]

Hey all! The measurement is wrong from the small hole to small hole. Its NOT 26 7/8. Its actually 26 1/4. Pretty big difference. So I recut the holes, and have a pretty decent cam lock bar now. :) Will post pics soon. And thanks!!!

[Avant Nate]

GJ, but those who are less mechanically inclined you can buy one for $40 on ebay. I bought mine for $30 off CL to do a 2.7t, and i would suggest it. The cam gears are a completely different design that they can spin freely when loosened and allows you to set it perfectly.

[levdeb]

I paid $9 for the steel, and about 70cents for the bolts. :) Took under 2 hours, even with the redo on the holes. Pretty good savings! And the place that sells them new here in Boulder Colorado is asking $209 (yep, USD) for them.

[Avant Nate]

I paid $9 for the steel, and about 70cents for the bolts. :) Took under 2 hours, even with the redo on the holes. Pretty good savings! And the place that sells them new here in Boulder Colorado is asking $209 (yep, USD) for them.

Well if you need to borrow the crank lock pin, let me know. I personally didn't use it.

[levdeb]

Well if you need to borrow the crank lock pin, let me know. I personally didn't use it.

Thanks!

[levdeb]

Job is DONE! Cam tool worked great... Thanks Nic!