NGK Spark Plug Torque on install?

[cmckelvy]

Do you guys recommend that I go borrow a torque wrench at a local store and make sure all plugs are equally tight? If so, how may ft pds should I do? If possible I would prefer to hand tighten, but I want to make sure it is done right. Any suggestions? With that...do you guys use one of the $1 circle spark plug gap measuring devices to tell what gap you have? I want something more exact!

[Molotov]

I believe it's 21 ft lbs. Little boxes that they come in say what it is, and yes, get a torque wrench

[Molotov]

work doesn't let me edit posts.. I have the $1 gap tool, if you don't like it you could get yourself a set of feeler gauges.

[cmckelvy]

Oh good call. thanks

[old guy]

When you install your new plugs it is recommended to torque the new plugs to around 22 ft lbs. however I would venture to say that at least 75% of plugs installed are not done with a torque wrench. here is some information from a previous post of mine outlining the procedure to use if you don't have a torque wrench:

"For those installing plugs without a torque wrench, let me be a little more specific: New plugs come with a "crush" washer that is designed to flatten out upon installation. If you tighten the (cold!) plugs slowly you can actually feel the washer as it flattens out. After you hand tighten the plugs, begin turning the plug wrench slowly. The resistance will remain pretty much even until somewhere between 1/2 and 2/3 turns. At that point you will have completely crushed the washer and the plug will get noticeably tighter. That's where you stop.

If you remove the plugs and then reinstall them you will only need 1/8 to 1/4 turn max since the crush washer will already be flattened out.

Additional tip: I always use a high temp anti-seez compound on the plug threads. No it is not absolutely necessary, but it helps with the "feel" when installing the plugs and it sure as hell isn't going to hurt anything. I have installed literally thousands of plugs and never had any issues."

[Ill 3.0]

Additional tip: I always use a high temp anti-seez compound on the plug threads. No it is not absolutely necessary, but it helps with the "feel" when installing the plugs and it sure as hell isn't going to hurt anything. I have installed literally thousands of plugs and never had any issues."[/B][/I]

I'm guessing you never use a torque wrench then correct? I always just set mine to 22 ft/lbs. dry but might try this method to help preserve the threads. I would guess using anti-seize would require a very low torque that probably wouldn't be accurate on most wrenches.

[old guy]

I'm guessing you never use a torque wrench then correct? I always just set mine to 22 ft/lbs. dry but might try this method to help preserve the threads. I would guess using anti-seize would require a very low torque that probably wouldn't be accurate on most wrenches.

Yes I have several torque wrenches. One for inch pounds and one for foot pounds and I use it at most ½ the time when changing plugs. The ant-seize isn't going to change the torque that much, maybe a pound or two. I guess I have done enough plug changes over the years that I trust my own judgement on how tight the plugs need to be.

[IVRINGS]

When I did my plugs on my A4 and my girls Jetta I did it with the extra 1/4 turn I've always been told, but it was off a good deal from 22ft lbs when I checked them after install.

[grimlock]

When I changed my plugs not long ago, I used a torque wrench and anti-seize, 22 ft-lbs and I've had zero issues.

[old guy]

When I did my plugs on my A4 and my girls Jetta I did it with the extra 1/4 turn I've always been told, but it was off a good deal from 22ft lbs when I checked them after install.

If you are installing plugs with a taper fit all you need is ¼ turn max. If you are installing plugs with a crush washer (flat seat) you need more than that (as I outlined above).

[Molotov]

Not to leave this out.. it kind of says so in Old guys post... but torque spec is for COLD engine, best changed in the morning when it's nice and cool. You can get a cheap torque wrench at most auto places, or hand tight and 1/4 turn as said above.

don't forget to +rep all around hahaa

[lookaught]

I like OG's post. Pretty helpful for someone who doesnt know abou the crush washer.

For any bolt, sparkplug, nut, whatever... if it has a low torque spec, just put your hand really high up on the ratchet arm so you have very little leverage. Get it tight with a good hard turn when you hand it way up, and you cannot strip the threads. Unless you are superman, you just can't get enough leverage. If it's a larger thread diameter or pitch, then move your hand down near the end, give it a little tug to add a bit extra (like 5 degrees) and you're done. "Gutentight", it's german for properly torqued!

Definitely use anti-sieze. The sounds a plug makes coming out of a car without anti-seize and 50,000+ miles can make a deaf man cry. I always pull the plugs on a cold engine, for both comfort and to make it less likely they will pull the aluminum threads out with them. I've heard people say to do it when warm and even hot as well, but that has never been my MO and I've never had any issues through many changes on motorcycles, karts, and car.

FYI OP loctite or any oil, paste, water, etc on the threads changes torque that a wrench will show because of the lube. Learning to do things by feel is a valuable skill.

[kwimberly]

And, for those of use that typically only use their torque wrench for changing the plugs, don't leave the wrench set at 21 - it'll ruin your wrench!

[lookaught]

And, for those of use that typically only use their torque wrench for changing the plugs, don't leave the wrench set at 21 - it'll ruin your wrench!

I've always left mine stored at 25% of max torque to keep a light tension on the spring. Wrong to do this? I've never had issues. Leaving it at like 90ft/lbs is another story.

[Ill 3.0]

I've heard its better to leave it at the lowest setting. Not sure it matters if there is a little tension though.