Minor Frame damage... possible repair? *pic*

**ProSkierNJ** · 06-24-2009 06:55 PM

so what do you think, can i get it close enough to straight so when the bumper goes back on it doesn't look like shit if i use a heavy duty come-a-long, a lever of some sort, a large tree, and a hammer? Or do i need a body shop to get this straight? Cause I'm very tired of waiting for my body shop guy to come and pick up the car and I really don't want to spend alot of money.

**akielb** · 06-24-2009 07:01 PM

I know nothing about body work so I say take it in

**PoormansA4** · 06-24-2009 07:18 PM

I probably wouldn't fuck around with stuff like that even tho it isnt that bad

**Richard** · 06-24-2009 07:20 PM

find a local frame streightener....do not attempt to do this yourself.

**jrock** · 06-24-2009 07:50 PM

^ What he said!!

**biketsai** · 06-24-2009 07:52 PM

I wonder what the process entails, and the cost!

**somebody5788** · 06-24-2009 07:52 PM

Problem is the frame damage most likely goes deeper then meets the eye. If it bent that part that much what about the part where that bar connects? Just getting the frame straightened is honestly not even that expensive compared to body work.

**onemoremile** · 06-24-2009 07:55 PM

That will probably need a frame rack. If you try using a tree and come-a-long your car will just slide bit by bit towards the tree.

**somebody5788** · 06-24-2009 07:57 PM

Originally Posted by onemoremile

That will probably need a frame rack. If you try using a tree and come-a-long your car will just slide bit by bit towards the tree.

I have had success on old junk cars w/ a chain and bolting the chain to the part then yanking really hard w/ our Jeep hahaha.... I don't recommend this method.

**onemoremile** · 06-24-2009 08:00 PM

Originally Posted by biketsai

I wonder what the process entails, and the cost!

Secure the car on the rack
Take measurements and compare to database's nominal measurement.
Pull on bent part.
Measure, compare, pull, measure, compare, etc.

Frame racks look a little like boxing rings with a winch for a turnbuckle. My car had similar damage but about twice the deflection. It was about 2-300 to have it pulled straight.

**dcampana** · 06-24-2009 08:04 PM

when it comes to frame damage you would be amazed at what 2 mm off can do to the tracking of the car. leave it to the professionals. As Jim says, you need a frame rack for this one... make sure its 100% straight. Also the fact that its a main rail can cause deficiencies if involved in another crash...

**AWD Mike** · 06-24-2009 08:10 PM

I concur.

I thought I had bent my frame straight on my last car after the accident, sure enough, although it looked straight, it was not even close.

Take it to a reputable place.

**biketsai** · 06-24-2009 08:12 PM

Any pics on the damage on your car?

**ProSkierNJ** · 06-24-2009 08:21 PM

Yup, forgot to take them when i first got the car home. The hammer was there cause i fixin things...

**SevakTM** · 06-24-2009 08:32 PM

this needs to be set up and measured... if u pull it the frame too much there is ultimatley no way to fix it 100 % as it was before

**ed1380** · 06-24-2009 08:39 PM

had that on both frame rails. chained the rear to a tree. winch from various points on the bumper shock to the bobcat. heat then winch some and heat some more. repeat. alot easier with 2 people. i have a b5.5 passat i can take measurements from if you need

**arorem** · 06-24-2009 08:42 PM

That method is probably going to end up destroying the bumper shock. Try to track down a frame rack.

**ghost6303** · 06-24-2009 09:10 PM

yea this is something you absolutely cannot do with a tree a chain a torch and a bobcat.

**onemoremile** · 06-24-2009 09:39 PM

Originally Posted by arorem

That method is probably going to end up destroying the bumper shock. Try to track down a frame rack.

You do it with the bumper shock removed.

I've got extras if anyone needs a couple anyway.

**ed1380** · 06-24-2009 10:02 PM

yea this is something you absolutely cannot do with a tree a chain a torch and a bobcat.

say what you want. thats what i did. of course it didnt happen in one day and the bumper shock was already damaged. it was needed for lateral force. and i had another vehicle just like it for measurements. its pretty much 99.9% to factory specs

**biketsai** · 06-24-2009 10:04 PM

Originally Posted by ed1380

say what you want. thats what i did. of course it didnt happen in one day and the bumper shock was already damaged. it was needed for lateral force. and i had abother vehicle just like it for measurements. its pretty much 99.9% to factory specs

Lol, tree.

**petera4** · 06-24-2009 10:18 PM

fuck it use the tree its way more fun!

**ed1380** · 06-24-2009 10:22 PM

yall might be laughing at me but i know it was done right. not halfassed by someone at the shop. ive been around the auto repair scene for a while

**dcampana** · 06-25-2009 12:24 PM

but you did say it is 99.9% at stock spec. i persoanlly would take to a reputable shop that gurantees the work to be back to 100% stock. that .1% can make a big difference on the drivability, the impacts (should a crash happen), tires, braking, ect... sometimes saving money upfront causes more in the future....

just my opinion...

**ed1380** · 06-25-2009 03:44 PM

yeah and germ-x kills 99.9% of germs too. that seams good enough

**SlipAngle** · 06-25-2009 04:01 PM

I had a 97' that was involved in an accident before I bought it. About 4" had been cut off the supports and new 4" sections welded on.

That would be the best way.

**biketsai** · 06-25-2009 04:05 PM

Originally Posted by SlipAngle

I had a 97' that was involved in an accident before I bought it. About 4" had been cut off the supports and new 4" sections welded on.

That would be the best way.

I like the idea of that, but I wonder what would be stronger. Pulling it back out? Or welding a new piece. Welding a new piece seems easier.

**dcampana** · 06-25-2009 04:15 PM

Originally Posted by ed1380

yeah and germ-x kills 99.9% of germs too. that seams good enough

yeah true to a degree.

whatever works for you, eh?

**stormscr3** · 06-25-2009 05:44 PM

Originally Posted by ed1380

yeah and germ-x kills 99.9% of germs too. that seams good enough

HAHA Damn Straight

**biketsai** · 06-25-2009 07:47 PM

Originally Posted by ed1380

yeah and germ-x kills 99.9% of germs too. that seams good enough

However, there is a reason why it is 99.9%. C'mon guys, its simple science.

**onemoremile** · 06-25-2009 08:54 PM

You are better off pulling it then welding in new pieces. They crumple because they are supposed to. Anything stronger won't dissipate the loads as intended in an accident. That looks like an easy job for a body or frame shop. It is probably quicker and easier to pull it then to cut and weld accurately.

**ed1380** · 06-25-2009 09:15 PM

Originally Posted by dcampana

yeah true to a degree.

whatever works for you, eh?

yeah even factory spec is allowed to be off by a couple millimeters

worked great and saved loads of cash

**BrandonAli** · 11-07-2017 02:42 PM

I'm in a similar situation with my frame being like that. I have it on a frame machine but they can't locate the original measurements. Does anyone have them so I can relay the message lol

**walky_talky20** · 11-08-2017 10:36 AM

Just pull till it looks "a'ight".

(Sorry, can't help with factory measurements. All I've got are jokes).

**BrandonAli** · 11-08-2017 01:41 PM

Originally Posted by walky_talky20

Just pull till it looks "a'ight".

(Sorry, can't help with factory measurements. All I've got are jokes).

Do you think the Bentley book will have them?

**walky_talky20** · 11-08-2017 02:29 PM

No. I don't think it would be in the regular repair manual. It would be provided to shops in the Audi authorized collision repair program, or would be published in the aftermarket, such as the Mitchell Import vehicle dimensions manual.

**HumbleTurbo** · 11-09-2017 04:04 AM

Remove bumber shock, zip-tie entire front frame and various body parts so it looks decent, daily it.

**walky_talky20** · 11-09-2017 05:49 AM

^Basically this.

Personally, as long as you can get it close enough to lie about, you're fine. The only thing that bolts to the frame horns is the bumper shocks (which have oversided sloppy holes) and the lock carrier/radiator support - which also has a bunch of slop. Pinpoint accuracy on this piece is really not that critical due to all the adjustment Audi gives from the factory. And you can even widen out the holes a bit if you need a little more. Even then, getting it perfect would be more for cosmetic reasons. As long as the frame horn is all there, and the the bumper is bolted up, you're good. A quarter inch isn't going to make a difference in an accident.

**BrandonAli** · 11-09-2017 09:46 AM

Originally Posted by walky_talky20

^Basically this.

Personally, as long as you can get it close enough to lie about, you're fine. The only thing that bolts to the frame horns is the bumper shocks (which have oversided sloppy holes) and the lock carrier/radiator support - which also has a bunch of slop. Pinpoint accuracy on this piece is really not that critical due to all the adjustment Audi gives from the factory. And you can even widen out the holes a bit if you need a little more. Even then, getting it perfect would be more for cosmetic reasons. As long as the frame horn is all there, and the the bumper is bolted up, you're good. A quarter inch isn't going to make a difference in an accident.

If I could figure out how to post a pic of it I would. It got impact on the drivers side so it's like the frame is pushed towards the passenger side. I'm going to tell him to just pull it until the bolts line up. I just was t sure if it'll be noticeable if it was off. You know how some cars crabwalk and look stupid I just wasn't sure

**walky_talky20** · 11-09-2017 01:16 PM

The suspension is not tied to the frame horn. It's tied the shock tower and the subframe. Since it's been knocked around, just throw it on an alignment rack when you'r done and check it out. If it's out of spec, you just slide the subframe until it evens out. Again using the factory bolt slop FTW.

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