Replaced my driveshaft center support bearing this weekend. Anyone interested in a

[jms-4]

write up?

If enough folks want one, I'll bang one out.

No pictures, though. Job is way to greasy to handle a camera.

[Mooseimage]

+1 to doing a write up. Would be good to know how.

[Reich]

+2 for write up. We never know.

[infinkc]

+3, was goin got change mine out, but it seemed cheaper to buy a whole shaft for $400 shipped rather than buying the bearing, and having it pressed out. What center support did you go with?

[jms-4]

+3, was goin got change mine out, but it seemed cheaper to buy a whole shaft for $400 shipped rather than buying the bearing, and having it pressed out. What center support did you go with?

The one from 034.

It's not pressed on. It came of with 2 hits on the sides with a hammer and screwdriver.

The hard part was getting the drive-shaft separated.

In fact, that was the only thing that gave my friend and I any grief.

[s vier]

+4. Please

[jms-4]

Driveshaft support bearing using 034 Motorsports part.


I am providing this write up for informational purposes only. PLEASE NOTE: AUDI SAYS THAT THIS IS A NON-SERVICEABLE PART. By undertaking any projects on your own, you assume the risk of bodily injury and/or damage to your car.

I don’t think this can be done with just 1 person. In fact, I wouldn’t even try it. You can easily get the driveshaft out with one person, but I fail to see how you would ever get it back in.

By far, the most difficult step is separating the driveshaft. If you don’t have a way to do that, do not even bother reading the rest. I will let you know what we did to separate it, but it was an ad hoc procedure.

1. Jack up all 4 corners and put car on jack stands. Be sure to have it high since there will be two of you under there at times.

2. Remove exhaust. If you need a how-to on this, stop right now and go to a shop. Basically, there are just a few hangers and some clamps that hold it to the DPs.

3. Remove heat shield. I believe there are 4 10mm nuts holding it on. This is the heat shield that covers the driveshaft.

4. Now, you’re looking at the driveshaft and the bearing bracket. Take your time here getting a sense for how the bracket is aligned on the car. It may make sense to mark how the bearing is situated. I didn’t since it was covered in grease and goop. Where the shims were placed between the bracket and the car was the only clean spot, so it was clearly marked anyway. As it turns out, my new bearing didn’t have holes, it had slots, so I didn’t really use the marks anyway.

5. Get your allen set out and begin removing the 8 allen bolts that attach the drive shaft at each end. I recommend using power tools to speed things up a bit here. For one, you will want the ebrake on when loosening the bolts. On the rear, I think you can get two or 3 at a time. At the front it’s one at a time. So, loosen bolt, ask friend to release e brake, rotate driveshaft, ask friend to engage e brake, loosen bolt, repeat until all 8 are done. The thing are not too long, but getting enough room to turn the socket around the downpipes was difficult, thus my recommendation for considering power tools.

6. Now that your hands are greasy (and they will be since there is a ton of grease in the driveshaft ends, remove the 2 bolts that hold the support bearing. Caution: the driveshaft is a bit heavy and will hurt if you let it fall on your head.

7. Get driveshaft out from under car and IMMEDIATELY put some kind of protecting cover on each end. I used big ziplock bags and some tape. You may notice a gasket has fallen out or not (mine did). No biggie. It’s easy to put back in when you’re getting the thing back on your car.

8. Now, you will notice there is a bolt (18mm I believe) in the middle of driveshaft under the u joint. That will be coming out.

Here is a pic:



Before you do that, though, take a breath and gather your wits.

9. with your wits gathered, remove the bolt. A big washer will come out with it. Now you are looking at the driveshaft connection. This is where you will have the most difficulty. I took one look at mine and said “no freaking way.� The driveshaft appears to be pressed together, and you can’t press it apart with the ujoint in the way. But, the ujoint is machined together (this is how Audi made this part “unserviceable�).

So, how are you going to separate these two things? Spray PBlaster on the teeth right now. Let it sit for 5 minutes. Then, spray some more. Do not get any in or on the ujoint. There is grease in there and Pblaster would likely ruin the grease.

What we ended up doing is this: tapping it with a sledge hammer. Nope. Inserting an iron rod between the ujoint and the shaft connection and pounding that. Nope. Pulling on each end. Yeah, right. Finally, my friend says “I have an idea.� He walks around his garage, and comes back with a simple piece of steel in the shape of a right triangle. We’re going to use the thing as a wedge. We put the bolt back in the hole of the driveshaft about halfway. We then put the flat side of our wedge against the ujoint and began hitting it with a hammer. After a few whacks, we looked and saw we were making progress. When we estimated we were halfway there, we decided this was the time to mark the teeth so when we go to put the 2 pieces back together it would be lined up properly.

NOTE: THE DRIVESHAFT IS BALANCED SO MISALIGNING THE TEETH WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER WILL MAKE VIBRATIONS WORSE. TAKE YOUR TIME HERE TO GET A GOOD MARK ON 1 TOOTH AND GROOVE, PREFERABLY 2. We used a Sharpie and only marked one groove and one tooth.

A few more whacks, then we removed the 18mm bolt, and some light taps, and BINGO, driveshaft was separated.

Now, to get the bearing off. I used a large screwdriver and whacked it 3 or 4 times, and it popped off. Be sure to hit the correct spot on the bearing. There seems to be a piece of steel that is coated in rubber. That’s where I hit. Be sure you’re not hitting the driveshaft.

Make note of the orientation of the bearing. Note that it does go on a specific way. Now, tap it on. You could probably use a piece of wood to cushion the blows. It does not take that much force.

To get the driveshaft back into one piece, grab the other end, find your marks on the teeth and grooves, line them up, and push the two sides together a bit. Now, insert the washer and 18mm bolt and begin tightening. By doing this, the bolt and washer will press them back together.

Reinstall is basically steps in reverse. I had my friend hold the driveshaft while I put back the 2 bolts that hold the bearing to the car. I did this to hold the driveshaft, but I did not tighten them yet.

Now, begin putting the driveshaft bolts back in I’d recommend power tools here once again, but don’t go too crazy with them, you don’t want to strip out a bolt at this point.

Once those are in and tightened, line up the bearing bracket as best you can, and tighten the bolts down.

Put on heat shield, put on exhaust (again difficult with just one person) and crack a beer. You just spent about $100 and 3-4 hours (max) on a repair that Audi wants you to spend $400 on parts and another $100+ per hour of labor.

So, once we got everything buttoned back up, the car was still off the ground, so I had my friend get in a start the car (I was seriously coated in brease and muck), put it in gear, and shift a bit. He took it up to 30 mph and we noticed no problems.

“You won’t notice anything until the driveshaft is under load� he tells me. OK.

Driving home, let’s just say I put the thing under load a few times, and not a singe vibration was felt.

I’d have to conclude that my “unserviceable part� had in fact been serviced by me.

The driveshaft is now my bitch, and I feel about $700 richer.

Questions?

[Karl]

Awesome write-up dude. Very detailed and informative.

[Reich]

Thank,s Jeff.
Maybe just a litle pic of that bolt between the shafts. But it's fine.

[WMi_S4]

Why not just buy a new rebuilt driveshaft that includes brand new center support bearing among other things??

Than all you have to do is drop the old driveshaft and install the new one...

Yea, I went through this bullshit too, and to me, this was easier than a new bearing

[jms-4]

Thank,s Jeff.
Maybe just a litle pic of that bolt between the shafts. But it's fine.

Can't miss it.

[jms-4]

Why not just buy a new rebuilt driveshaft that includes brand new center support bearing among other things??

Than all you have to do is drop the old driveshaft and install the new one...

Yea, I went through this bullshit too, and to me, this was easier than a new bearing

The only thing that was really a bitch was separating the shaft. And, once we figured out to use a wedge it was done in less than 5 minutes.

I thought the bs part was having to set the parking break when tightening and loosening the driveshaft bolts. That was a pia in my opinion.

Why spend an extra $350+ on a new driveshaft, if all you need is a $100 bearing?

I'm a cheap bastard when it comes to such things.

[awd2ks4]

What kind of symptoms or noises did you have?

[Scotty@Advanced]

You could always replace the shaft it all together with a stronger unit and save a few pounds with this..

http://www.advancedautomotion.com/pr...products_id=43

[infinkc]

You could always replace the shaft it all together with a stronger unit and save a few pounds with this..

http://www.advancedautomotion.com/pr...products_id=43

Anyone try one of these? how safe is it to run this, i can only picture in my head the shaft droping out. Are there any joints on the ends?

[jms-4]

Anyone try one of these? how safe is it to run this, i can only picture in my head the shaft droping out. Are there any joints on the ends?

It's a solid driveshaft?

Not sure how that works with an AWD car.

Most folks buy rebuilt ones for $400-500 if they are doing the entire shaft.

[Scotty@Advanced]

Anyone try one of these? how safe is it to run this, i can only picture in my head the shaft droping out. Are there any joints on the ends?

Yup we have dozens in the field. The shaft is less CV joints, which can easily be transferred over from your old shaft.

[Scotty@Advanced]

It's a solid driveshaft?

Not sure how that works with an AWD car.

Most folks buy rebuilt ones for $400-500 if they are doing the entire shaft.

It's not solid but rather hollow steel high strength tube.

[rarak69]

absolutely no reason to by a new shaft if the center support bearing goes. why pay all that when it can be fixed for $50 in parts?

did my a4 like 4 years ago, its a bitch. but air hammer helps a lot. took 2 hours to do.

[Scotty@Advanced]

I'd agree however the replacement parts are typically not the quality of the stock stuff, and with the center ujoint installed under high torque situations, the shaft will move to the point of hitting the transmission tunnel.

[dla79]

What people do not use a solid drive shaft boggles my mind..... People that say you get added vibration must be retarded seeing as these are precision balanced to 8k and about every other car has a solid drive shaft that is actually longer than ours. The reason Audi implemented a 2-piece drive shaft was due to the crash testing that found it destroyed less things. You lose so much power to the wheels with this crappy OEM setup.

[Matt Danger]

I bought a rebuilt DS for $450 + core, then saw there was a solid DS alternative. D'oh.

[jms-4]

I've received a few questions on how to use the wedge thing.

Here is a sketch of how I used it.

[IMG][/IMG]

[Congratulati0ns]

sweet write up man! i did mine a few months back and i used a round piece of steel and left the bolt in there and hit it...worked very well=]

[*Blue-Angel*]

Anyone try one of these? how safe is it to run this, i can only picture in my head the shaft droping out. Are there any joints on the ends?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post5767341

[mrandersons4man]

To the OP, this diy helped so much when diagnosing a bad vibration in my car during the low RPM's. For anyone who might have an issue with a vibration at low speeds, I will describe my symptoms:

In first and second gear from 1400 RPM to 2200 RPM on either accelerating and decelerating, the car would vibrate down the center of the car as well as in the rear. Any gears above this would not replicate the vibration. After taking off the exhaust, I examined the drive shaft and it had some play in the center bearing. After taking it the drive shaft out, I found that one of the U parts connecting the two shafts, had locked out. Instead of being able to move side to side and up and down, it was only able to move side to side. This caused excessive wear on the center bearing. After replacing the shaft, all the vibrations have gone away.

Thanks again for the tips!

[amd is the best]

I am thinking that my driveshaft needs to be replaced/rebuilt. The car has no problems at speeds of 55 or less but go anything above 55 and the car is literally giving me a back massage. Could this be caused by anything else or do you guys think the shaft it bad?

[mrandersons4man]

Do you feel it in the center of the car? Or just everywhere? When doing the research for this problem it seems that if the vibration comes on at high speeds, then it was related to wheel bearings, wheel balancing, not true or straight wheels, or a poly mount somewhere. Although it very well could be the driveshaft. If the exhaust isn't too hard to remove then just yank it and pull the heat shield and check out the shaft and bearing.

[ezfour]

I also think my drive shaft bearing might be toast, 60 mph and over I get some vibration as well as definite bearing type noise when turning right at any speed.

[tambat]

i don't think vibrations at high speed should be blamed on a your drive shaft right away. there are other much more likely possibilities. usually high speed vibrations mean wheel is off balance (easiest fix), bad wheel bearings, bent wheel or wheels that are no longer true. i would check out all those options before jumping to replace your drive shaft.

[Gujuhammer]

i don't think vibrations at high speed should be blamed on a your drive shaft right away. there are other much more likely possibilities. usually high speed vibrations mean wheel is off balance (easiest fix), bad wheel bearings, bent wheel or wheels that are no longer true. i would check out all those options before jumping to replace your drive shaft.

x2

[amd is the best]

What I'm feeling is defiantly not a bad wheel bearing or out of round wheel. The vibration is way too fast to be a wheel/wheel bearing and the driveshaft does spin 4.11 times faster then the wheels. It seems as though its vibrating right in the center of the car.

[fbdohc]

Sorry to revive that old thread but what tool did you use to remove that 18 mm bolt ? I can't stick any wrenches in there...

[jimbo1234567]

does anyone ever use a tool to realign the shaft by holding it in a straight plane and shimming the center bearing clamp. i know audi have a proper tool for this and say its essential to get it straight in both orientations,

[amd is the best]

does anyone ever use a tool to realign the shaft by holding it in a straight plane and shimming the center bearing clamp. i know audi have a proper tool for this and say its essential to get it straight in both orientations,

I do. I built my own out of some angle-iron and exhaust clamps. I'll try and dig up a picture.

[fbdohc]

...

[xalents23]

Great DIY and info OP. Thinking of replacing my center drive shaft bearing. Since I'm starting to get a little knocking sound under my armrest during acceleration or deceleration. It only happens once in a while. Anyone done the repair without using an alignment fixture for aligning the drive shaft back on? Audi recommends using an alignment fixture to put the driveshaft in place. Is it really necessary or can you bolt it back on without using the alignment fixture?

[Shenanigans]

i get noises and vibrations from the center/rear of the car when driving in the rain, its not wheel bearings, i assume it would be my center drive shaft support?

[Congratulati0ns]

i get noises and vibrations from the center/rear of the car when driving in the rain, its not wheel bearings, i assume it would be my center drive shaft support?

Sounds like it to me, mine made more noise in the rain for some reason as well... If it isn't your wheel bearings, more than likely it's that center bearing, especially if it has never been replaced.

Sent from Antarctica using Quattro

[Shenanigans]

Sounds like it to me, mine made more noise in the rain for some reason as well... If it isn't your wheel bearings, more than likely it's that center bearing, especially if it has never been replaced.

Sent from Antarctica using Quattro

I need to get this done soon, althought my S4 isnt my DD anymore, it still makes driving in the rain annoying as hell