coilpack failure, now car won't start!

[cjonesgo]

Soooooooo...
I got REVO Stage 1 last week and a coilpack promptly went out. I wasn't able to get off the road immediately and when I finally was able to pull over coilpack was actually smoldering! Not a full blown fire, but it got hot enough to melt the socket a bit!

Wiring looks in tact, but now I cannot get my car to start!! It turns over fine, but seems like I am getting no spark. No combustion at all, in any cylinder.

CEL came on when the coilpack went, do I need to get this cleared in order to start my car? Seems like I should at least be able to start it up and even if the socket is messed up, it should just run on 3 cylinders.


Please Help!!

[beegeezy]

Well, either all your coilpacks are bad or your car has swine flu.

[cjonesgo]

oops, wasn't clear... car will not start with 4 brand new revision R coils.

[Stubek]

I think its that new white elephant flu actually. Get a vag and read the CEL code. Chances are something bigger went bad from the coil frying.

[beegeezy]

well, I've heard of the coilpacks being bad out of the box...but I doubt all four could be bad. Any fuses blown?

[FireWire]

bad CAT maybe? if your coil packs were bust it could have destroyed and clogged your CAT. clogged exhaust system = no start maybe? just throwing it out there.

check you're plugs too.

[cjonesgo]

hmmm, will check fuses in the morning, but it was running (less one cylinder) when I stopped it. any fuses in the engine compartment or just by driver door?


...anyone local have VAG and like beer?

[diagnosticator]

If the failed coilpack was hot enough to smoke/smolder, then the ECU power supply relay is likely toasted. The ECU PSR, switches +BATT power to the coilpacks with the ignition key ON, all coilpacks receive a constant +BATT as long as the ign sw is ON. Because the failed coil pack shorted, resulting in high current draw, the relay was overloaded, and now is not able to connect the coilpacks to +BATT as the internal contacts used are burned or melted. The ECU PSR is under the ECU in the box at the left end of the plenum. Without the +BATT power supply to the coilpacks, there will be no spark, and the engine can't start and run without spark as you know. There are fuses in the ECU box also.

[cjonesgo]

Any way to test the Power Supply Relay?

[dirtybrd]

Swap it with another relay with the same part number, if the car has another one.

[MikeWire]

Check fuse #29.

[FourRings80]

Any way to test the Power Supply Relay?

Remove the power relay plastic cover and inspect the contacts (N.O) and check the resistance (Ohms) on the relay's coil. If you get a high resistance (infinity) chances are its gone. Like previously mentionned the power relay is located under the ECU. Here's a crapy pic I got went I had a similar problem. Mine ended up being soaked plugs. You might want to give that a thought too.



And just in case, see if the fuse next to the battery is still ok.

[cjonesgo]

OK Fuse 29 was in fact blown, and one replaced the car started right up. No CEL, runs just fine(though I'll probably replace the coil socket anyway) and sounds great.

Just to double check everything, I turned the engine off and pulled and checked every fuse. No other bad ones, but I restarted the car and now I am getting the EPC light and Electronic Stabilization Light circle/triangle/! thing.

I'm going to take it around the block and hopefully they will reset once I drive it a bit? thoughts?

[MikeWire]

It will go away after you drive it a bit - mine does the same after the battery is reconnected or I blow fuse #29. To avoid that happening again, disconnect the coilpack harness from he CP before pulling the CP out. What happens is the bottom metal part of the CP is touching the block and grounding out, which blows the fuse.

[cjonesgo]

Thanks.

Hoping it goes away on its own. Stability went off (as expected) but EPC is still on. only drove a few miles though. Hopefully it will just go away...

[dirtybrd]

It will.