do you grease your spark plugs??

[d_maniac]

when changing spark plugs is it nessassary to grease them first???

[old guy]

I always put a light coat of Never-Seize on the threads prior to assembly.

[Redgoat]

always use anti seize

[dsq]

anti-seize on the threads and di-electric grease on the other end.

[Papachristou]

like old guy said, i always use anti seize on the threads and some dielectric grease on the connection... just a tad bit of each is needed

[heateris]

yep, just a small bead.

[mavinwow]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but it came up on a search. NGK explicitly says not to use anti-seize.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

Cant find a definitive on dielectric grease, what are people doing?

[old guy]

Well I guess I've been doing it wrong for the past four and a half decades. As long as you don't overtighte the plug there is nothing wrong with using Never Seize. And a little dielectric grease makes the coil packs easier to remove.

[daihashi]

I always just rub the threads with my finger coated in oil... no problem here.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

[h82loze]

Sorry to bump an old thread, but it came up on a search. NGK explicitly says not to use anti-seize.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

Cant find a definitive on dielectric grease, what are people doing?

Well, they only say not to use anti-seize if the spark plugs have a special metal plating like all of theirs do. And it's only an issue because of the chance of over torquing. So you could still use it, as long as you make sure not to over torque or using spark plugs that don't have a special metal plating.

Personally, I don't use anti-seize. But then again I also always use NGK plugs. And I use copper plugs, so they need to be changed more often anyway.

As for dielectric grease, use it. I'm sure you'll find most people will make the same recommendation.

[Samulis]

I always do. I've had enough seized bolts on this car that damn near everything gets ant-seize.

[EErie B6]

^made me lol.

+1 for a tiny bead of anti-seize on the threads and a blob of dielectric grease on the other end. (shoot it right into the coil pack)

[MikeWire]

It's a bit old school, but I have an oil can with some generic 10-30 motor oil on my work bench. I gap the electrode, throw a little oil on the the threads, let them sit a minute, then put them in. Done this on many vehicles for many years with zero issues.

I suppose there's many ways to skin a cat, so to each his own.

[travrach]

Threads of a plug are the ground to the block. If you decide to use it, use it sparingly. I personally do not.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug

[dennej1985]

Dialectric on the coil pack side, nothing on the threads. I have never had a plug I installed get stuck. I feel like most people who have just crank them down too tight or don't change them often enough.

[MikTip]

Anti-sieze on threads effects the torque....

"Applying anti-seize to the threads of spark plugs that have a metal plating allows the installer to
mistakenly over-tighten the spark plug in the cylinder head; This stretches and fatigues the threads of
the spark plugs, causing a much higher probability that the plug will break during installation or in some
cases upon removal."

Solution

For spark plugs with special metal plating simply do not use anti-seize on initial
Installation; All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with a special trivalent Zinc-chromate shell plating
that is designed to prevent both corrosion and seizure to the cylinder head; Thus eliminating the need
for any thread compounds or lubricants.
Additional Information

NGK recommends only using spark plugs with metal plating on all aluminum head applications to
prevent damage to the head and plug. Metal shell plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from
the main body of the spark plug during removal, preventing damage to the spark plug and or threads in
the cylinder head."

All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against
seizing or bonding to the cylinder head and so it is with these spark plugs that anti-seize would be
required. A spark plug that has a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicates that the
plug is manufactured with metal shell plating and therefore will not require anti-seize."

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

[freeloader700]

I anti-seize my thread everytime, just a little bit. Never used the dielectric grease on the other end

[mavinwow]

For future googlers, I emailed NGK and this is what they said re: Dielectric Grease:

"Only a small dab on the terminal nut of the plug."

[MikTip]

How many of you use a torque wrench when installing spark plugs?

[mavinwow]

I thought that was mandatory equipment? How else could you do it.

[old guy]

I thought that was mandatory equipment? How else could you do it.

Clicky click

I also put a thin coat of the dielectric grease over the top of the plug as well as the insulator. Makes the coil packs easier to remove.

[IVRINGS]

I thought that was mandatory equipment? How else could you do it.

Old school terms would be 1/4 turn after tight.

[MikTip]

I thought that was mandatory equipment? How else could you do it.

About 99% dont....

[mavinwow]

Who knew! Thanks for all the info, very helpful forum for newbies

[h82loze]

How many of you use a torque wrench when installing spark plugs?

I do. 22 ft-lbs is so easy to over torque.

[freeloader700]

No torque wrench for me.. get just barely snug by hand and then 1/4 turn with ratchet

[MikTip]

No torque wrench for me.. get just barely snug by hand and then 1/4 turn with ratchet

So, with anti-sieze on the threads, what are your spark-plugs actually being torqued to?

NGK's advise above is good advise!

However people, are reluctant to change....until they are forced to, by a broken spark-plug.

[freeloader700]

They are torqued to the right feel haha

I would say tough probably 10-15 ft/lb? Maybe I will bust out my tq wrench and find out that they are at right now

[victimdumper]

How many of you use a torque wrench when installing spark plugs?

nein, german gudentite haha

[JEENYUS]

i never use dielectric or anti-seize. i always look at the AutoZone guys like they are idiots for even offering it to me. I didn't realize how many people use it. How ironic is it that anti-seize can cause you to over-tighten your spark plugs? I think the dielectric sounds like a great idea since it's such a vital electrical connection. I also don't use a torque wrench. i just do it by eye by simply following the directions on the box.

[BARRY]

i've never used anti-seize on my plugs but see no reason why you couldn't. it doesn't hurt, but i do see NGK's point that this could lead to over tightening.

when using any lubricant, oil, anti-seize, moly lube, you will need to lower the torque standard as less force is needed to reach the required tension.

[EErie B6]

*CLICKY*

[Charles.waite]

I always use a torque wrench. Just seems easier to me to be honest, and I've got the Torque Wrench right there. Might as well use it.

Also no anti-sieze for me either. Never once had an issue with stuck plugs...

[old guy]

There is nothing wrong with using Never-Seize on your spark plugs as long as you use a little common sense. I already linked how to tighten plugs without a torque wrench. Tighten until you feel the crush washer bottom out and stop. It really isn’t that difficult. Actually it is probably a lot safer method than using a torque wrench on the plugs due to variations in friction between plugs and heads.

That article that recommends using motor oil looks all neat and scientific but it misses the point entirely. The only reason to put anything on the spark plug threads is to help with the plug removal further down the line.

Motor oil is burns off at less than 500°f. It won’t do jack shit for helping with plug removal. It may even make them worse to get out from the carbonized crud left behind. Standard Never-Seize is good to 1,800°f. The Nickel based Never Seize I use is good to 2,400°f. I never have to worry about stuck plugs.

[AudiSport12]

I don't use anit-sieze, dielectric grease, or a torque wrench. I change my NGK coppers often enough so I don't have to worry about seizing - every 3-5k miles (6-8 weeks) - and I just tighten them until I feel the crush ring bottom out.

[mavinwow]

Here is another reply from NGK. I specifically asked if dielectric grease on the ceramic insulator was a bad idea:

"Yes, this is a bad idea, the grease stops mating of 2 dissimilar metals. Terminal nut is steel and the wire end is aluminum, putting it on the insulator will quickly increase the chance of a misfire going back up into the wire as it defeats the rib design that should not allow the spark to pass in the event of a misfire."

This is in addition to the prior comment of: ""Only a small dab on the terminal nut of the plug." in regards to dielectric grease, in addition to their published recommendations not to use anti-seize.

Seems like lots of varied opinions, which probably means it doesnt matter a lot either way, but the official NGK recommendations would be:

1. No anti-seize if your plugs have the metal coating, see PDF linked above
2. Only small amount of dielectric grease on the terminal nut, NO grease on the ceramic insulator.

[A4TQS]

No, never.

[old guy]

I don’t know where NGK comes up with this stuff but it is incorrect. Do your own research on dielectric grease. Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity. It is used to keep out moisture and prevent corrosion. The main use of the stuff is to provide a seal and protect rubber gaskets on electrical connectors.

From a quick Google search:

Dielectric grease

Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.

A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected. It can be applied to the actual contact as well, because the contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. Doing so on such high pressure contact surfaces has the advantage of sealing the contact area against corrosion.

[Timtheguru]

Always torque to 22 ft/lbs after I was getting blowby on my S4 from them wiggling loose.

[mavinwow]

*CLICKY*

great post, thanks!