B7 2.0T Oil Filter Change Pains

[turboequipla]

Hello, I tried the following method:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthre...=2668848#23726

for changing the oil and filter myself now that my car is no longer under the free scheduled maintenance portion of the warranty. Changing the oil is pretty straight forward after taking off the timely process of getting the plastic under cover off. The oil pan bolt is like any other car but this damn filter with the plastic cover was a real pisser.

I tried grabbing it with an oil filter tool and could not get the plastic canister to budge. Then I used the "BIG 12" adjustable wrench method but could not get it to turn. So after wasting an afternoon going back and forth buying tools to try to budge the plastic oil filter canister I gave up and just changed the oil.

Anyone else have the same troubles doing a simple oil filter change on the B7 2.0T? I have a 1.8T and very simple process like any other car with the metal oil filter canisters that you can hand tighten, etc.

I plan on doing my own oil changes moving forward but I almost want to get rid of the car after my troubles with the plastic oil filter canister. Just have to be forced to take it into the dealer to have them change it for $200...I would really prefer to do if myself for $30 parts...

[Fast'n'Go]

Haha why do people have trouble doing their oil change. The canister i think makes it a lot cleaner than the 1.8t and easier. Just buy the socket that fits over it, 32 or 36mm cant remember off the top of my head im sure someone else can chime in.

[clemsongt]

Hello, I tried the following method:

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthre...=2668848#23726

for changing the oil and filter myself now that my car is no longer under the free scheduled maintenance portion of the warranty. Changing the oil is pretty straight forward after taking off the timely process of getting the plastic under cover off. The oil pan bolt is like any other car but this damn filter with the plastic cover was a real pisser.

I tried grabbing it with an oil filter tool and could not get the plastic canister to budge. Then I used the "BIG 12" adjustable wrench method but could not get it to turn. So after wasting an afternoon going back and forth buying tools to try to budge the plastic oil filter canister I gave up and just changed the oil.

Anyone else have the same troubles doing a simple oil filter change on the B7 2.0T? I have a 1.8T and very simple process like any other car with the metal oil filter canisters that you can hand tighten, etc.

I plan on doing my own oil changes moving forward but I almost want to get rid of the car after my troubles with the plastic oil filter canister. Just have to be forced to take it into the dealer to have them change it for $200...I would really prefer to do if myself for $30 parts...

I understand what you mean. I had a whole lot of trouble when I changed my oil for the first time a couple months ago. I don't know if the dealer really tightened it up, or if it just works tighter over time. The torque is only 15 N-m or about 11 ft-lbs.

What I did: I took an oil filter wrench AND a crescent wrench. I, while under the car, used the crescent wrench on the bottom 16 mm nut, and my father used the oil filter wrench. Together we were able to break it free without tearing up the canister. I hope that next oil change it won't be as bad.

I also suggest a long funnel of some kind when you get it loose. There still remains a good bit of oil in the canister. I think I'm going to fashion one out of a 2 liter bottle.

HTH

[golfvdude]

Haha why do people have trouble doing their oil change. The canister i think makes it a lot cleaner than the 1.8t and easier. Just buy the socket that fits over it, 32 or 36mm cant remember off the top of my head im sure someone else can chime in.

36mm. The canister will always be tight. That's because of the o-ring that's in the canister. I even used my 36mm socket for axles from the local autoparts store with an extension. It was tight but nothing much to take off. Use the socket. It is pretty much the only way. I tried with a crescent wrench and it didn't work well.

[turboequipla]

There is a plug directly under the plastic oil filter canister bolt that keeps me from being able to put a socket wrench on it and turn it out. If that damn plug/connector was not there I could wrap my oil filter tool around the plastic canister to torque it out but the connector gets in the way.

In the photo of the B7 oil change instructions there is no connector directly below the canister and seems to have better access to the canister in the photo. But that is not the case with my car there is a troublesome connector in front of mine.

[wayneB7]

I wonder if there is any known technical reason why Audi have developed such a convoluted oil filter system -- does anyone know?

My other vehicle also has a canister-based system and oil changes are even easier than with the traditional screw-on oil filter. For one, the canister is mounted at the top of the engine for easy access. One simply has to unscrew the cap, pull out the old filter and O-ring, replace with new items and replace the cap. All while standing over the engine. The rest of the drain from the oil pan is the same. Why couldn't Audi do the same?

[harryd14]

I wonder if there is any known technical reason why Audi have developed such a convoluted oil filter system -- does anyone know?

My other vehicle also has a canister-based system and oil changes are even easier than with the traditional screw-on oil filter. For one, the canister is mounted at the top of the engine for easy access. One simply has to unscrew the cap, pull out the old filter and O-ring, replace with new items and replace the cap. All while standing over the engine. The rest of the drain from the oil pan is the same. Why couldn't Audi do the same?

because its German engineering and has to be complicated!!!

[wayneB7]

because its German engineering and has to be complicated!!!

Hahahah ... tell me about it!

I finally managed to get my service manual installed on my office laptop (non-Vista machine) and was browsing .... this car is a flipping joke when it comes to certain maintenance work. Another "German touch" is replacing the bulbs in the headlamp assemblies. Start by removing the bumper cover, and then progress to the windshield washer reservoir and finish with the air intake, ....

No wonder places charge so much for labour.

Oil changes, bulb changes, brake pads and rotors, and so forth are the remaining things the average modern car DIYer (with other responsibilities) has time (or inclination) to do, and when these things are made overly expensive to work on, and reliability is not stellar, then some of us are not amused. I think that Audi needs to improve in these areas.

[Fast'n'Go]

The torque is only 15 N-m or about 11 ft-lbs. HTH

The torque for the oil filter is 25+5nm and the drain plug is 30nm

[QUOTE=turboequipla;3661677]There is a plug directly under the plastic oil filter canister bolt that keeps me from being able to put a socket wrench on it and turn it out. QUOTE]

I think your talking about the connector for the engine mount, if thats the case just disconnect it. Just make sure to reconnect it after you get the filter back in.

I wonder if there is any known technical reason why Audi have developed such a convoluted oil filter system -- does anyone know?

My other vehicle also has a canister-based system and oil changes are even easier than with the traditional screw-on oil filter. For one, the canister is mounted at the top of the engine for easy access. One simply has to unscrew the cap, pull out the old filter and O-ring, replace with new items and replace the cap. All while standing over the engine. The rest of the drain from the oil pan is the same. Why couldn't Audi do the same?

Most of audi's canisters are on top im pretty sure just the 2.0 is on the bottom, and on the chain driven 2.0 its back at the top again but its not a canister.

[Jer]

There is a plug directly under the plastic oil filter canister bolt that keeps me from being able to put a socket wrench on it and turn it out. If that damn plug/connector was not there I could wrap my oil filter tool around the plastic canister to torque it out but the connector gets in the way.

In the photo of the B7 oil change instructions there is no connector directly below the canister and seems to have better access to the canister in the photo. But that is not the case with my car there is a troublesome connector in front of mine.

I have the same problem with a small harness right in the way. That pics I saw didn't have it so I wonder, is your car a tiptronic? I ended up having to use a larger channel lock wrench which I hate to do because it tends to mar up the surface a little especially when I have a high dollar impact socket set including very large sizes to be able to work on my motorcycles axles and transmission output shafts. Would be easy to spin it off with a socket but I can't get a socket on it because of that same phantom plug/harness that is right next to it and I have no idea what it's for and why some cars have it while others don't seem to.

[Subaru71]

I wouldn't use a clamp or any kind of adjustable oil filter wrench on the canister... simply because you want it to last and its made of plastic... Just get a 36mm axle socket.. as long as you don't over tighten it.. it should be very easy to remove.. drain the oil with the orange valve first though.. just push up on it

[acray]

You might have better luck looking for a 36mm socket specifically for oil filters. They should have a much lower profile than a high-impact socket. That might make it easier to maneuver.

[Subaru71]

You might have better luck looking for a 36mm socket specifically for oil filters. They should have a much lower profile than a high-impact socket. That might make it easier to maneuver.

yea thats actually what I have.. an impact one should work just fine though.. theres plenty of clearance.. I would suggest a 1/2" drive, you will need an extension to get it up there.. and you need to be able to put some torque on it..

[Jer]

You guys that are saying it should clear no problem are wrong. Some cars (I thought it was just mine until I read a couple other people post the same problem) have some sort of a plug/harness mounted directly in front of it. It's basically touching the 36mm part of the filter and there is NO way possible to get a socket on it. I used channel locks and was VERY careful with it to break it loose and then finished by hand. I've been wrenching for many years so if there was a way to put one of my sockets on it it would have been the first thing I did.

[Grishbok]

I use a beer bong to funnel the oil down to the bucket after removing the canister.

Dealerships have notoriously OVERTIGHTENED my oil canister. Nothing the vice grips couldn't undo though.

[WayzataAudi]

okay this is a very helpful thread and i am in no intention of threadjacking but i think theres a very important step were missing, resetting the service thingy on the DIS...anyone know how to do this? because it is gunna bug the shit outta me untill i can get it reset. thanks!

[golfvdude]

You guys that are saying it should clear no problem are wrong. Some cars (I thought it was just mine until I read a couple other people post the same problem) have some sort of a plug/harness mounted directly in front of it. It's basically touching the 36mm part of the filter and there is NO way possible to get a socket on it. I used channel locks and was VERY careful with it to break it loose and then finished by hand. I've been wrenching for many years so if there was a way to put one of my sockets on it it would have been the first thing I did.

I think a picture would help a lot of other members here. Since I have a manual, I apparently don't have a "plug/harness under it", so I didn't run into the problem. But maybe there is a way to move the plug/harness out of the way to get a socket on there.

[greg@dubaudi]

here are some tricks i learned working at the dealer for a year as a tec.

you do need a socket for the plastic filter housing. Im sure if you look on ECS or a VW/audi site that sells the specialty tools you will find one...

ok first if you have the plug in the way unplug it and move it out of your way. then unscrew the cap on the bottom of the filter housing.

they take your new filter out of the box break the box down so its long and flat then fold it in the middle and stick it under the filter and use a long screw driver to push the orange ball up and to the side so the oil drains out of the filter onto the box being used as a funnel into you oil bucket. when the oil is drained use the socket to unscrew it and change the filter. make sure you replace the rubber o ring after putting some of used oil on your fingers and spreading it over the o ring...

hope this helps

[shamrok]

Oil changes are a breeze with the right tools.

Step 1 - Pela Oil Extractor. No more jacking the car up and removing the plastic skid.


Step 2 - Audi Canister Drain Tool Thingy



Step 3 - 36mm socket.
Step 4 - Replace filter.
Step 5 - Fill oil.

Easy peasy.

[Fast'n'Go]

okay this is a very helpful thread and i am in no intention of threadjacking but i think theres a very important step were missing, resetting the service thingy on the DIS...anyone know how to do this? because it is gunna bug the shit outta me untill i can get it reset. thanks!

With the key in the off position push and hold the wrench, while holding turn the key to the on position then let go of the wrench and push reset or 0.0 i forget what it says.

[WayzataAudi]

With the key in the off position push and hold the wrench, while holding turn the key to the on position then let go of the wrench and push reset or 0.0 i forget what it says.

siick thanks!!

[Subaru71]

With the key in the off position push and hold the wrench, while holding turn the key to the on position then let go of the wrench and push reset or 0.0 i forget what it says.

actually hold the wrench when off.. turn the power on while keep on holding the wrench.. and then at the same time hit the 0.0

also someone mentioned a harness.. you can push that off to the side around the engine mount in the area for much easier access to drain the filter..

also, I would not recommend a pump since it really isn't that hard to change the oil.. so its better to just pull the plug and drain it completely..

Also, on these cars the plugs are designed to be frequently replaced.. so its good to get a bunch.. ecs has them for pretty cheap..

[turboequipla]

Yes, I do have a tiptronic.

I tried to unplug the connector/harness directly below the plastic oil filter canister but could not get it to disconnect and didn't want to push on it any harder then I already was. Not sure what it is and didn't want to break it.

[Jer]

Yes, I do have a tiptronic.

I tried to unplug the connector/harness directly below the plastic oil filter canister but could not get it to disconnect and didn't want to push on it any harder then I already was. Not sure what it is and didn't want to break it.

Same here. Must have something to do with the tiptronic cars. Great, one more reason they're a bitch to work on.

[John4378]

It's no harder to change the oil on a B7 A4 than any other car. I just jack the car up, remove the skid cover, undo the canister from the engine compartment using a BAW (large crescent wrench) and then drain the oil.

I don't have any qualms about changing oil on the B7 considering I have to jack up the car twice (once on each side's balance point), put it on jack stands, remove an engine tray that has 13 bolts, THEN get to change the oil on the Lotus. but at least on the Lotus I can use the hammer and screwdriver method to get the filter off if it's stuck. Gool ol' Toyota filters.

[AWDTURBO]

I did mine yesterday and it was quiet easy :)

[Grishbok]

Maybe I should make an instructional how to video and post it to alleviate other difficulties new users may experience.

[wayneB7]

It's no harder to change the oil on a B7 A4 than any other car.

As a standalone statement, that has not at all been my experience.

There are many cars out there where changing the oil requires simply unscrewing the filter and replacing it with another, all other steps (removal of trim cover, removal of the drain plug, etc ...) being similar. Some cars don't even need to be jacked up.

Can any DIYer change oil in a B7 in 5 -10 minutes ... including hot oil drain?

[TorsenForcin]

I agree that it's a bit of a pain in my tiptronic (with the harness plug in the way); moreso than my prev. 1.8T and S4 4.2.

I just did mine first change on my 2.0T lst month and used a Pela 6000 and crescent wrench and slip joint pliers. I did it all from above without jacking the car up, and it took an hour and 30 min. Not great, but to me better than having the dealership do it.

Someone mentioned moving the harness/plug out of the way for access, but it seems to be quite solidly mounted and not easy to disconnect (from above, anyway).
It allows for very little clearance - I don't think the little "canister drain tool" thingy would even fit on the canister of a tiptronic because of the plug there.

I'm going to inquire of my dealership tech what their approach is.

[Fast'n'Go]

Yes, I do have a tiptronic.

I tried to unplug the connector/harness directly below the plastic oil filter canister but could not get it to disconnect and didn't want to push on it any harder then I already was. Not sure what it is and didn't want to break it.

That connector is for the engine mount, an easier way to dissconnect it is to use a 90 degree pick and just put it in the connecter and lightly lift up on the tab while you pull the connector off.

Then once that is off you can unscrew the cap for the organe nipple, drain the filter, then remove and replace the filter.

[John4378]

Who said it was a race? 5-10 minutes is hauling ass. Easy does not necessarily equal fast.

Mowing lawn is easy, but how long it takes depends on the yard size....right?

[Jer]

Someone mentioned moving the harness/plug out of the way for access, but it seems to be quite solidly mounted and not easy to disconnect (from above, anyway).
It allows for very little clearance - I don't think the little "canister drain tool" thingy would even fit on the canister of a tiptronic because of the plug there.

This is exactly what I am saying. It looked to me that even if you unplugged it the half that was in the way would still be in the way. If this wasn't there the oil change would be a breeze though and I even bought the special drain tool because I made a mess the first time on the advice by other members that it was 'easy' to do. I'm the type of person I like to keep my garage floors clean enough to eat off of and same with my engine bay and lower engine and suspension components. I can't tell you how pissed I was watching all this oil run down to my cross member and into a hole where it come out further down. To me this isn't acceptable and I much prefer my 'messy' canister filter cars/trucks because I can break the filter loose and then put a big zip loc bag over it as I unscrew it. When it's off you simply close the bag and you're done. Never drip so much as a drop anywhere and it costs an extra nickel. Not an option with the Audi filter and I hate these stupid cartridge style filters. I change my oil in my vehicles a lot so little annoyances like these add up over time.

[eMacPaul]

Maybe I should make an instructional how to video and post it to alleviate other difficulties new users may experience.

[illegitimus]

I just did the oil change today. I have tiptronic so that ominous electric connector was, in fact, in a way. You have to disconnect it to get the oil filter canister off. I used a thin flat screwdriver to lightly lift the connector on the side where it is snapped in place with one hand and pull on it with the other hand:



I used both the drain tool and the socket which I bought on ecstuning site. Makes the job very easy. Whoever the bozo tech was that changed the oil on my car before me overtightened the valve cap on the canister, so I had to use small vice grips to take it off (it just needs to be hand tightened, since it simply prevents dirt from getting onto the valve). Hand tighten the drain tool to the bottom of the canister and drain oil from it. I used a 7" wrench extension to get the socket to the bottom of the oil filter canister: unscrew it from the bottom and finish it from the top of the engine bay by hand. Putting it back, tighten the canister to 25.5 N-m (the torque setting is etched on the canister itself; it is important not to over tighten it!). The drain plug torque setting is 30 N-m. The job is easy if you have the right tools. I strongly recommend to buy both the drain tool and the socket from ecstuning if you are planning on changing oil on your B7 yourself. Also, I used ramps since I am not lowered and it was the best choice as opposed to jacking the car up. It must have taken me 45 minutes from start to finish and I was not rushing. I hope this helps.

[Kolyan2k]

the biggest pain in the ass for me was getting the drain tool out of the canister from the top of the car. (i used oil extractor so i did not lift the car)

[RedS-line]

Oil changes are a breeze with the right tools.

Step 1 - Pela Oil Extractor. No more jacking the car up and removing the plastic skid.


Step 2 - Audi Canister Drain Tool Thingy



Step 3 - 36mm socket.
Step 4 - Replace filter.
Step 5 - Fill oil.

Easy peasy.

thats awesome! how does the extractor work? anyone else use this cuz i never heard of it??

[illegitimus]

the biggest pain in the ass for me was getting the drain tool out of the canister from the top of the car. (i used oil extractor so i did not lift the car)

I'd say it was not very comfortable and you do need to set it properly not to tighten it crooked on the canister thread, plus the tube keeps twisting but it is what it is, and there's no mess if you use it, so I am not complaining. It is better with it than without.

[B5A4Kevin]

you pump it to create a vacuum which sucks out the oil through a long skinny tube you stick in the dipstick tube/hole. they are kinda cool, but the mechanical ones need to be pumped over and over especially if they leak. imo not worth the extra money, but then again i do all my oil changes on a lift.

the plug is not that big of a pain in the ass. its a similar style plug to 90% of whats in your engine bay (similar to coil pack connectors). use a pick or screwdriver to pop the lever (gently) until you hear it click, the pull off with the other hand. with it disconnected, there is PLENTY of room to get a socket in be it low profile or impact, but the low profile 36mm filter socket is cheaper and much easier to maneuver. the drain tool is also fairly useless as the strong spring on the valve makes it hard to thread the tool in place. i just do as dubaudi mentioned and push it in and to the side with a phillips screwdriver. works just as well, you just need to remember to move it back.

[Jer]

you pump it to create a vacuum which sucks out the oil through a long skinny tube you stick in the dipstick tube/hole. they are kinda cool, but the mechanical ones need to be pumped over and over especially if they leak. imo not worth the extra money, but then again i do all my oil changes on a lift.

the plug is not that big of a pain in the ass. its a similar style plug to 90% of whats in your engine bay (similar to coil pack connectors). use a pick or screwdriver to pop the lever (gently) until you hear it click, the pull off with the other hand. with it disconnected, there is PLENTY of room to get a socket in be it low profile or impact, but the low profile 36mm filter socket is cheaper and much easier to maneuver. the drain tool is also fairly useless as the strong spring on the valve makes it hard to thread the tool in place. i just do as dubaudi mentioned and push it in and to the side with a phillips screwdriver. works just as well, you just need to remember to move it back.

With all due respect [/Ricky Bobby] I disagree 100% on the drain tube tool not being needed. I read that on forums too and was VERY unhappy that my low mile A4 now had oil all over EVERYTHING inside of cross members and all over everything. If you're fine with that then save yourself $50 and go ahead and do it that way. If you're like me and keep your cars (engine bay and underside included) spotless along with your garage floor and don't like cleaning up messes I suggest getting the tool and not just pushing aside with a screwdriver. I did this and then ended up buying the drain tool after making one helluva mess. I guess some people just like different things and you and I are at the opposite end of the spectrum because I like my wrenching to be as close to a sterile environment as possible and this tool makes it possible.

[golfvdude]

I need it. Just gotta order it. Hate wiping all of that shit up afterwards. Minus well use shamrock's idea and just get the pump. If i can get away from jacking up the car and removing the plastic undertray, that seriously saves time(which I have little of).