Acceleration Sputter After Cold Start

[greene08]

I'm going to do my best to explain my issue so here we go...

Upon cold starting the car (morning start) and taking off 10-15 seconds afterwards, even under light acceleration (always the case while the engine is cold), there is a "jumpiness" to the acceleration through first and second gear. Once I make it through a couple gears the acceleration becomes normal. This occurs anytime the engine is started cold and I drive off. It only lasts for a couple seconds until I make it through a couple gears and then wont happen again until the next cold start.

Is this common for a turbocharged engine until all of the oil circulates through the turbo? I haven't noticed it on any automatic transmission outfitted loaner cars I've driven or the B6 A4 I used to have.

It doesn't seem to happen if I wait a minute or two after starting the car--hence my thought it just needs a little longer to warm up and the ECU has adapted.

Does anyone else notice this? There are no noises associated with the experience, it is just a feeling. I would never accelerate hard on a cold engine so I'm not sure what that would do. It only lasts a couple of seconds though--not nearly time enough for any component to warm up much.

Thoughts?

[Grishbok]

ok, start the car and wait for your rpm's to drop. then drive. problem solved, always wait for the rpms to drop to proper idle if you can.

[Dan[FN]6262]

I'm going to do my best to explain my issue so here we go...

Upon cold starting the car (morning start) and taking off 10-15 seconds afterwards, even under light acceleration (always the case while the engine is cold), there is a "jumpiness" to the acceleration through first and second gear. Once I make it through a couple gears the acceleration becomes normal. This occurs anytime the engine is started cold and I drive off. It only lasts for a couple seconds until I make it through a couple gears and then wont happen again until the next cold start.

Is this common for a turbocharged engine until all of the oil circulates through the turbo? I haven't noticed it on any automatic transmission outfitted loaner cars I've driven or the B6 A4 I used to have.

It doesn't seem to happen if I wait a minute or two after starting the car--hence my thought it just needs a little longer to warm up and the ECU has adapted.

Does anyone else notice this? There are no noises associated with the experience, it is just a feeling. I would never accelerate hard on a cold engine so I'm not sure what that would do. It only lasts a couple of seconds though--not nearly time enough for any component to warm up much.

Thoughts?

yeah, it happens to me this morning. i have to wake up at the ass crack of dawn and im not a morning person. so i let it warm up for at least a minute. but usually ill start it about 10 mins before i have to leave

[greene08]

ok, start the car and wait for your rpm's to drop. then drive. problem solved, always wait for the rpms to drop to proper idle if you can.

Yeah, that is my normal routine and there are no issues. If it is warmer outside that wait time is decreased of course. That is how I've always treated the car but in the rare instances I didn't I noticed the sputter and wasn't quite sure why.

The owners manual (while certainly not the book of God) does say to start the car and drive off immediately--partly for environmental reasons but also for reduced wear on the engine during warm-up. Under all circumstances I always wait for 10-15 seconds to let the oil circulate through the system fully.

[Grishbok]

not entirely sure what all its doing during the initial start up, i had always made the assumption (i know you never assume), that the engine management system was taking ambient temperatures and going through a normal inital startup process diagnostic. Kind of like a POST check on a computer boot up.

[wayneB7]

....The owners manual (while certainly not the book of God) does say to start the car and drive off immediately--partly for environmental reasons but also for reduced wear on the engine during warm-up.

I garage park the Audi but the Santa Fe lives on the driveway. Both vehicles are driven off after the seatbelts are done up and neither has these issues. This includes during the "bone-chilling" Houston winters when the early mornign temps can "approach" freezing ... (woooo...)

The modern car does not need to warm up. You can drive it off after buckling up and checking mirrors, etc. Just as long as you drive it smoothly and gently for the first few minutes.

I think there is something that needs to be checked out in your car.

[doublezero30]

I have this same issue. Anyone ever figure this out? It's only when cold.

[Charles.waite]

Does it happen while the idle is still high? Does it go away after the idle has dropped down to around 800 after 30 seconds of idling?

[airbornerifleman]

Check for mis-fires during cold start idle.

[GAIC Husky]

Mine does this when is cold out and usually only last for like 2 seconds after I start to accelerate in 1st gear up to 2,500rpm and then when I shift to 2nds its gone. I never really saw this as a problem but more just a reaction to me being lazy and not letting it warm up at all. I have only had it happen when my car has been sitting in my work parking lot for several hours in the cold months and I'm in a hurry to GTFO so I just start the car, back out of my spot and take off. I park my car in my garage at night so I don't have the problem in the mornings.

[schirm]

Mine does this on cold starts, but if you let it idle for about a minute it wont...but if I am in a rush and just drive right away, it always happens.

[Acme]

^^ This here too...

[BenA4B7]

I have this same issue. Anyone ever figure this out? It's only when cold.

Dude,you woke up a thread that was sleeping for 3 years!!!

[doublezero30]

Dude,you woke up a thread that was sleeping for 3 years!!!

Your point? I'm actually asking something pertaining to the thread unlike the dumb one and two ringers that give useless advice in a 4 year old thread.

[doublezero30]

I'll try letting it warm up a bit more before driving and see if it helps. But it seems very random when it happens and has only happened when the engine is cold. Spark plugs are new, Pcv is new, and coils were warrantied about a year and a half ago

[schirm]

Dude,you woke up a thread that was sleeping for 3 years!!!

He actually did the right thing and searched, instead of making a new thread...

[Charles.waite]

He actually did the right thing and searched, instead of making a new thread...

Exactly! God damn, you just can't please some people.

[airbornerifleman]

It seems like "taboo" to post on an old thread. Instead of having diluted info about the same issue on multiple threads, it makes absolute sense to search and post related issues on the same thread, be it brand new or "3 years old". PPL need to get into the habit of searching and posting on related threads instead of making a new useless thread.

There is nothing wrong with posting on an old thread! This should always be the starting point for anyone looking for info.

[Charles]

I get the same thing and I didn't get it when I first got the car, so I don't think it's normal.

After sitting overnight:
Start the car. Sometimes it takes a 3-4 seconds to start, sometimes it starts right up.
If I do nothing, the car sounds like it's idling rough (ie cylinder misfire)
If I drive off right away, the car is sluggish as if it's being held back.
If I really get on it, it obviously starts to misfire, one time causing the engine light to blink.
After 30 seconds or so of driving it smooths out and runs fine.
Before that 30 seconds, if I'm keeping the RPMs constant, once I hit that smooth out mark, the car surges ahead.

It's def temperature related and probably something to do with the coilpacks as I'm getting a P0304 code. When I get a chance, I plan on moving the cyl 4 pack around then seeing if I get a misfire code on the new cylinder.

Anyone know how temperature would affect the coilpack?

[airbornerifleman]

I used to get a slight misfire in cyl 2 during cold start-up, during the entire cold start idle, the misfire counter only detects less that 10 misfires, so the ECU never generates a code or makes the CEL blink. As soon as the idle rpm goes down the misfire stops. I did the coil pack swap, compression test, but to no avail. I originally thought it had something to do with the secondary air pump, because the misfire stops as soon as the SAP stops. When I did the intake valve carbon clean, I also replaced the injector and since then the car is running fine. My guess is, when the injector is semi clogged it will not spray properly but as soon as the injector heats up, somehow the clogging disappears?

FYI: I had a clogged injector (cyl 2) replaced when the car had 80000KM and recently changed injector again in cyl 2 at 155000KM.
WTF AUDI?

[doublezero30]

Well, if an injector is clogged its clogged. If the clogging goes away than its unclogged. I don't see a way it could go back and forth. How did the car feel after the carbon cleaning? At almost 84k it is deffinatly on my list of things to do.

Today was much warmer than it has been. Let the car warm up for about 30-60seconds and havnt noticed any sluggishness on cold starts so that is good. However I don't know if this is due to warmer weather or letting it warm up a bit.

[bnish]

i have the same issue... i suspect it may have something to do with the intake flap motor that is on recall. im getting that recall done this saturday. ill chime in if it helps the situation (kind of doubtful).

[doublezero30]

hmm well, i just had my car at the dealer for all open recalls (only one open for my car was the PCV recall) a couple months ago. I do trust them that this was the only open recall, considering i work for the auto group and have spent thousands there in the passed year...i doubt they would lie to me anyways though)....but does anyone have more info on the flap motor recall? i will search in a bit, i just really have to poop right now haha

[bnish]

From what I've researched, only certain dealerships will accept it as an open recall. Others will treat it as an extended warantee item. There are so many conflicting stories it's hard to say what's what these days. In any case, my local dealer had the intake flap on recall for my 2007 vin even though I didn't get a letter or anythang

[mcpcartier]

From what I've researched, only certain dealerships will accept it as an open recall. Others will treat it as an extended warantee item. There are so many conflicting stories it's hard to say what's what these days. In any case, my local dealer had the intake flap on recall for my 2007 vin even though I didn't get a letter or anythang

hi bnish, which dealer are you getting this done at? I just broke 110K and would like to get it done if someone treats it as a recall.

[bnish]

hi bnish, which dealer are you getting this done at? I just broke 110K and would like to get it done if someone treats it as a recall.

McKenna Norwalk. And don't forget the complimentary snack bar!

[A4_Ti]

my car does this too (3.2). but it went away for a while when I switched to mobile 1 0w40, then slowly came back, then put in some castrol 5w40 and it's still there... fluke?

[mcpcartier]

McKenna Norwalk. And don't forget the complimentary snack bar!

Thanks....I'll call them this week. It's 41 miles from my place straight up the 5..ughhhh. But if they'll take care of the flapper it'll be worth the the trip.

[bman005]

hmm well, i just had my car at the dealer for all open recalls (only one open for my car was the PCV recall) a couple months ago. I do trust them that this was the only open recall, considering i work for the auto group and have spent thousands there in the passed year...i doubt they would lie to me anyways though)....but does anyone have more info on the flap motor recall? i will search in a bit, i just really have to poop right now haha

Not all cars have the campaign or even the 10/120k extension. But more have the extension than do the campaign. If you want to double check PM me your VIN and I can check for you

From what I've researched, only certain dealerships will accept it as an open recall. Others will treat it as an extended warantee item. There are so many conflicting stories it's hard to say what's what these days. In any case, my local dealer had the intake flap on recall for my 2007 vin even though I didn't get a letter or anythang

You didn't get a letter because none were sent out. It isn't a recall, its a required vehicle update (RVU). The two are similar but not the same, manufacturers are not required to notify you of RVUs. RVUs also typically have set times that they expire while something like the coil recall will never expire. This particular RVU expires at 10 years from the original in service date of the vehicle or 120,000 miles. I've seen some that have only been good for 12 months from the date which they came out.

[bnish]

Welp I've cold started the car twice since the service and no change in the 2 second rough throttle upon initial take off... Curious what else the problem could be...

[airbornerifleman]

Well, if an injector is clogged its clogged. If the clogging goes away than its unclogged. I don't see a way it could go back and forth. How did the car feel after the carbon cleaning? At almost 84k it is deffinatly on my list of things to do.

Today was much warmer than it has been. Let the car warm up for about 30-60seconds and havnt noticed any sluggishness on cold starts so that is good. However I don't know if this is due to warmer weather or letting it warm up a bit.

Carbon clean: Increase throttle response and smoother engine operation and may have freed up some power.
The "clogging/unclogging" may be related to temperature.

[Charles.waite]

Welp I've cold started the car twice since the service and no change in the 2 second rough throttle upon initial take off... Curious what else the problem could be...

Well what have you checked, besides warranty items? How in gods name can we help you if you provide no info??

Start with the basics. Check your intake for any clogging, make sure the intake snorkel is free from debris. Move up the line from there. How is your fuel pressure? How old is your fuel filter? What does rough throttle mean? Initial takeoff? From a cold Start? When you move from P to D or R? Are you even a Tiptronic? Are you waiting until the idle drops from ~1100 to normal 800rpms?

Basic info or you're going to have to live with your issue...

[kloeb2]

I'm experiencing a very similar problem. Really choppy acceleration for the first 30 seconds or so of driving. Occasionally the car actually goes into limp mode, then I restart it and it's fine. I think i have narrowed my problem down to a faulty throttle body wiring harness. If the car is running, I pop the hood, and just slightly move the harness, the car goes limp. Here's a link that help me http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...harness-repair.

Not sure if this is your problem but it's worth checking out.

[Twista616]

Ugh, I have this same problem...I have been researching it ever since I bought my car. It's super annoying when I'm driving with people and it hesitates when i accelerate. I'm could replace everything that I read about, but I would end up placing pretty much very part in my car!

I did find this, but not many people have tried it or written about it. I might try it though:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...sitation-fixed

[Tanner]

Get a vagcom and do some logging, specifically misfires on the cylinders.

I had the same exact problem twice. For the first 30 seconds I could tell that the engine was misfiring. First time it happened, if I kept the same throttle while it was misfiring, a CEL would be thrown as the # of misfires triggered a flashing CEL. Of course I could get off the throttle, which resets the misfire count and back on the throttle to avoid the CEL. I ended up having the intake valves cleaned, car had 104,000km.

Second time it did that, it was too early for an intake valve cleaning based on the mileage since the last cleaning (car only had 138,000km). I kinda ignored it but it got worse and worse. Did some logging and noticed misfires happening on cylinder 3, like the first time, but it couldn't be intake valves needing a clean. After some basic troubleshooting, best guess was a bad injector and it was. Had it replaced and the car ran smooth again.

[bnish]

i just wanted to rule out the intake flap motor as the culprit in case anyone was wondering. im not ripping my hair out over this issue. the car drives perfectly fine otherwise. ill live with it

Well what have you checked, besides warranty items? How in gods name can we help you if you provide no info??

Start with the basics. Check your intake for any clogging, make sure the intake snorkel is free from debris. Move up the line from there. How is your fuel pressure? How old is your fuel filter? What does rough throttle mean? Initial takeoff? From a cold Start? When you move from P to D or R? Are you even a Tiptronic? Are you waiting until the idle drops from ~1100 to normal 800rpms?

Basic info or you're going to have to live with your issue...

[Charles]

I get the same thing and I didn't get it when I first got the car, so I don't think it's normal.

After sitting overnight:
Start the car. Sometimes it takes a 3-4 seconds to start, sometimes it starts right up.
If I do nothing, the car sounds like it's idling rough (ie cylinder misfire)
If I drive off right away, the car is sluggish as if it's being held back.
If I really get on it, it obviously starts to misfire, one time causing the engine light to blink.
After 30 seconds or so of driving it smooths out and runs fine.
Before that 30 seconds, if I'm keeping the RPMs constant, once I hit that smooth out mark, the car surges ahead.

It's def temperature related and probably something to do with the coilpacks as I'm getting a P0304 code. When I get a chance, I plan on moving the cyl 4 pack around then seeing if I get a misfire code on the new cylinder.

Anyone know how temperature would affect the coilpack?

Just a slight update. Swapped coil packs and I'm still getting a P0304, so it's not cpack related. Gonna check the plug and then swap injectors.

[Jmdavis13]

Anyone else actually enjoy the feeling from this stutter? I kindof like this jerky shift (I assume that's what y'all are describing)

[bnish]

Just wanted to update this. After cleaning the carbon from the valves and throttle body, the issue has disappeared completely

[teamdaraptor]

I'm going to necro bump this thread. Just bought an 08 Ti 2.0 with 66k on the clock. I had this "sputtering" issue when starting the vehicle from a cold start. By cold start I mean not driving it for a few hours. 2+. However, I don't get a CEL. Nothing. It ONLY happens from 2nd at around 2200 RPM to 3000. Second through fourth all show this sputtering. I've changed the plugs with NGK BKR6E's, I also have 7E's, if needed. I've also changed the oil just a few days ago, and there is some "burning" on the furthest cpack, but not horrible. I'll change that out, update, and see if that helps, but just wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem lately with NO CEL.