Coolant Bleeder Screw

[Peoples-2]

So two weeks ago I noticed I had a coolant leak coming from the coolant bleeder screw/valve. I finally am getting around to fixing it... (Picture of where the leak is)

When I took the screw off I found this:





To me it looks like the screw has broken in half...the bottom of the removable piece doesn't seem to have a smooth bottom and there seems to be a solid chunk still in the tube, kind of hard to see from the pics. Is it indeed broken?

Now I understand from previous searches that the PN for this screw is WHT 000 316, but once I get this from the dealer, how do I remove the broken half of the screw, if it is indeed broken?

Any help appreciated, gracias.

[B5A4Kevin]

there are actually two methods to go about replacement:

the first is to extract the broken plastic screw and replace it with either the same oem piece that failed, or a gasketed metal replacement that has the same pitch and diameter. The problem with this method is the extraction may lead to damage and breaking up the rest of the screw. then it gets into the rest of the pipe, and if not cleared, may go to the water pump or thermostat causing damage or failure.

the second route is my choice. replace the whole pipe. it may be a little more expensive, but with cable-operated hose clamp pliers and a couple vice grips, you can do the whole job in about an hour. AirLift kit knocks off 15-30 min; as you can bleed, vacuum test the entire system, and refill in about 3 minutes.

[Raus]

I would first try to get it out with an easy out extractor. You'll need to drill a pilot hole in the screw and then thread in the reverse turning extractor. Once the extractor has threaded in far enough it should grab the screw and start turning it out.

Just a tip if you're going this route, use the largest extractor that will fit into the broken screw without coming near the threads.

[Pothole]

on mine i actually was able to cut a slot in to the chunk stuck in the tube and unscrew it with a screwdriver, but you really don't want chunks of plastic falling in there so be careful

[Raus]

It is a plastic screw? I can't even remember. Yeah, you could probably easily cut a slot in it with an xacto knife and use a screwdriver to get it out.

[old guy]

The easiest way to remove a broken plastic bleeder is to find a narrow flat blade screwdriver that will fit into the recess. heat it up with a propane tourch until it glows red. Press the blade down into the plastic and melt a slot. hold it steady until the plastic cools and then just unscrew the remaining threaded portion.

Easy peasy

[ziggituning]

One thing here, see with the dealer to get the right screw, some models come with the plastic screw others came with the metal one, both were used depending on year, my 03 and 04 have the metal one.

[lookaught]

My 2002 has a metal screw, 5mm allen head with a crush washer.

I like old guys suggestion of the heated screwdriver. Flat heads can exert a LOT of torque, and is super easy if you dont have extractors.

[JMRQuattro]

Mine has a metal screw as well. But i can imagine that being a serious PITA.

[Pothole]

when i replaced mine they gave me a metal screw to replace my plastic one

[A4natomical]

this just happened to me about a week ago.

[(A)(U)(D)(I)]

is there any other way i can "burp" the coolant system so i can j.b. weld the bleeder screw permanently? are there any other options for a stripped screw hole? there isn't a pipe stocked anywhere within a 100 miles of me and i'd rather not pay $100+.

[kyle_h]

I vacuum the coolant system, then let the vacuum suck in coolant. Hasn't given and issues yet...


Sent from my iPhone using the Tapatalk app, so that explains the typos...

[maurizio]

i just drilled and tapped a bigger screw, working like a champ

[jjvwg]

bumping this. just want to confirm that a metal bleeder screw will work on a water pipe that originally came with the plastic bleeder. the bung that is attached to the water pipe i have that originally had the plastic bleeder screw is different than the one that is currently on my car. I received the one that originally came with the plastic bleeder screw from a friend and am wanting to weld an AN fitting to it in order to run a new coolant return line. thanks for the help guys.

[audireme]

Didn't work for me, ordered it a month ago. My plastic screw broke just like in the original post. I ordered a metal screw but it did not fit. I don't have a part number right now that I used. At any rate, I removed the pipe, drilled out the old plastic screw, and used a spare screw (a VAG screw leftover from whatever project), that had the same thread. I did shorten it and added a copper washer.

[jjvwg]

Didn't work for me, ordered it a month ago. My plastic screw broke just like in the original post. I ordered a metal screw but it did not fit. I don't have a part number right now that I used. At any rate, I removed the pipe, drilled out the old plastic screw, and used a spare screw (a VAG screw leftover from whatever project), that had the same thread. I did shorten it and added a copper washer.

i appreciate the info, thank you.

[MacFady]

Necro bump here with some additional info for anyone coming across this thread with a similar problem as myself. The bolt size is M10x16. The VIN split on the metal to plastic screw is reportedly from VIN 8E-4-170 001, split is in the model year 2003 although someone above said there '04 had a metal one. My late model '05 had plastic, now has a M10x16 bolt with teflon tape and a copper washer. I suggest both, that coolant will find it's way to seep through and although it may be miniscule it's enough to make a mess over time underneath.

[FrenchFrye]

2004 A4 1.8T cabriolet. same exact spot same exact problem. however i don't have a screw, its a little nozzle in which a o ring was placed, the o ring went bad i guess because now green radiator fluid either fills the space left by the o ring or at higher temperatures foams over and ends up on new places. i admit i am a little confused about not having a 'screw', and yes i have checked to see if i can unscrew or twist it off, doesn't really budge. its quite annoying as i was able to finally install a new crankshaft sensor (old one went bad) and also had to repair the coolant flange as that had developed a severe.. break ( hill Billie engineering at its finest btw). however back to the reason for this reply, i need to find out what i can do to fix the bleeder screw/valve leak type situation i have, and seeing as the screw isn't really... involved somehow. i could do with a good bit of help

[tHatOne guY]

Only skimmed the posts above but Autohaus has the plastic bleeder as well as the metal one. And the vacuum method is the way to go guys you can even get the cheap china made ebay stuff that works pretty well... for a while... yea gud luck w/ those

AutohausAZ plug... http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...leeder%20Screw

[MacFady]

2004 A4 1.8T cabriolet. same exact spot same exact problem. however i don't have a screw, its a little nozzle in which a o ring was placed, the o ring went bad i guess because now green radiator fluid either fills the space left by the o ring or at higher temperatures foams over and ends up on new places.

I guess I would say first that "green fluid" is not G12 coolant, so I wouldn't be running that personally.
Secondly, can you post a picture of the "nozzle" you're referencing. It's hard to advice a fix without seeing what you're talking about since that doesn't sound to be one of the factory options. If you can't replace it, or take the hardline off drill and retap the hole for the M10x16 bolt, then I would just buy a new hardline to replace the one you have. Sounds like you have a leak there that is preventing you from driving the car.