Official DIY 2000 Audi S4 LCD Instrument Cluster Pixel Repair

[lbs4]

anyone looking i have 2 clusters for sale, one works absoultly perfect no missing pixels $150 or one with a few missing pixels $85

[MastaJuse]

is there a way to install the iphone digitizer on there instead? i rather play bejeweled while im driving.

anyways, great job! is it sticky'd yet?

[VWYankee]

IF only I had the time to actually do this. Great write-up.

[DIYAudi]

Has anybody bought LCD from here?
http://www.freewebstore.org/dashboard-repair-shop/

This seems to be quality OEM display
http://www.freewebstore.org/Dashboar...0_4601706.aspx

Here is cheaper copy
http://www.freewebstore.org/Dashboar...0_4601718.aspx

[bldufour]

Just did mine last night.

Once everything is apart, you have to de-solder about 50 points that are about 1 mm wide. There is a product called QuikChip to help remove the old chip and it does work, but can make a mess. You got to be really sure you clean up the excess solder it dumps so as not to short anything. If I were to do it again, I would buy an inexpensive hot air rework tool. Re-installation was not easy.

I have alot of experience with electronics and trying to get all those points soldered properly took patience, a new .07 tip, a magnifying lamp (old eyes) and a few attempts. Whole process of removal and re-install of chip about 1hr, 45 mins. I can tell you I destroyed the old display upon removal and can see how you could damage the new one easily. Not for the faint or heart or those with little soldering experience. I figured I saved $100 over having it repaired by www.ModuleMaster.com. You need to decide if it is worth it.

FYI, I tried the heat trick on the ribbon cable and the pressure trick on the display edges and neither worked. When I looked at the ribbon cable with a back light, I could see points where the cable had come apart. I can not see how it could be fixed without creating jumpers over the broken parts. Considering those "wires" are hair thin, it is doubtful anyone could repair.

[00SantorinS4]

I believe k0mpresd replaces these for just $90 including lcd and return shipping. I would just go that route.. (I will be in the following months)

[Mani]

Just did mine last night.

Once everything is apart, you have to de-solder about 50 points that are about 1 mm wide. There is a product called QuikChip to help remove the old chip and it does work, but can make a mess. You got to be really sure you clean up the excess solder it dumps so as not to short anything. If I were to do it again, I would buy an inexpensive hot air rework tool. Re-installation was not easy.

I have alot of experience with electronics and trying to get all those points soldered properly took patience, a new .07 tip, a magnifying lamp (old eyes) and a few attempts. Whole process of removal and re-install of chip about 1hr, 45 mins. I can tell you I destroyed the old display upon removal and can see how you could damage the new one easily. Not for the faint or heart or those with little soldering experience. I figured I saved $100 over having it repaired by www.ModuleMaster.com. You need to decide if it is worth it.

FYI, I tried the heat trick on the ribbon cable and the pressure trick on the display edges and neither worked. When I looked at the ribbon cable with a back light, I could see points where the cable had come apart. I can not see how it could be fixed without creating jumpers over the broken parts. Considering those "wires" are hair thin, it is doubtful anyone could repair.

Very true. I almost killed my cluster when I tried to swap the displays. I sent it to mpower and he helped me fix it. If you don't have good soldering experience, better send it to mpower and save yourself few bucks.

[puttingzone]

Hi Guys, Just thought I would post a thumbs up for Paul at pixelfix.

I checked out his web site last night and was going to order a new cluster and try to fit myself.

I drove to his address today to find out more of what service he provided.

Thank goodness I did - this guy is the real deal totally professional and his attention to detail is outstanding.

I thoroughly recommend you don't try to do this fix yourself - what I saw him do today and how meticulous he was left me knowing there was no way I could have completed this project without a lot of potential problems.

2 thumbs up.
Bruce

[Gberg888]

Need this DIY!

[Riles]

It took me 6 hours start to finish but I did it. Thanks for this great writeup! I did it using only a cheap 15 watt soldering iron and some thin 60/40 solder that I picked up from Radio Shack. I did run into one problem - I overheated one ribbon pad while tinning, which caused it to disconnect from the ribbon and fall off the ribbon entirely. I was able to salvage it by pooling up solder on the pcb and letting it flow into the ribbon at that point after attaching all of the other ribbon pads. My soldering skills leave much to be desired, but I was luckily able to make it work with my basic tools and miniscule knowledge.

I didn't take a before pic, but my screen was basically black most of the time. I replaced it with a 37 dollar Ebay screen. Believe me, this diy is not for the faint of heart but it was totally worth it. I cut most of my knuckles on the repeated reinstallation of the gauge cluster while attempting to re-zero the needles.

Huge tip that I learned - put masking tape on the black piece of plastic that covers the top of the steering column. Mine is all scratched now from taking the gauge cluster in and out. Nobody ever looks at this area, but still better to spend a few cents on tape before beginning!

[verstappen]

I got my screen yesterday and got the cluster out, but I cant get the cluster open, any ideas how?

[xalents23]

I got my screen yesterday and got the cluster out, but I cant get the cluster open, any ideas how?

Below is a link to a how to step by step for the Audi A4 S4 B5 1999-2002. Don't know if your asking for a B6 A4 or B5 S4.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XI6DxQpTonA

[getslideways]

slide pieces of plastic under all the tabs around the edges so they can remain unclipped all at once, then remove the screws holing it together, then release the two haves by using a long screwdriver down the two sides to pop the two side tabs free.

This may help explain it better:

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/octboost.shtml

[iamshayan]

Sorry to bump an old thread. Maybe someone can chime in. I just installed my s4 cluster successfully. although the white leds for the needles seem to be burnt out for fuel coolant and voltage. Is this repairable?
Thanks in advance

[xalents23]

Yes, you can repair the white LEDs for your gauge needles. You can actually change them to any color you want to.

[iamshayan]

Yes, you can repair the white LEDs for your gauge needles. You can actually change them to any color you want to.

any more info on this or should I just pull it apart. assuming its quite straightforward, de-solder LED - Re-solder new led?

Any tips on where to source them?

[gahigalaba]

I recall seeing the RS4/RS6 tach and speedo rings for sale somewhere but I can't seem to find them now. Want to do those with the gauge face kit from gauged.

[LJS]

I recall seeing the RS4/RS6 tach and speedo rings for sale somewhere but I can't seem to find them now...

Try here-http://www.bestpixelrepair.com/301-audi-gauges-rings

[gahigalaba]

I wouldn't mind those but I swear I saw just the rings on this cluster for sale somewhere. [IMG][/IMG]

[getslideways]

I wouldn't mind those but I swear I saw just the rings on this cluster for sale somewhere.

I think Ed was making some: http://www.gauged.ca/gauges

Might want to look into it and report back what you find

[Jism]

Always 'write' down where the arrows exactly when powered down. This can save future hassle of meters unbalanced. They dont auto adjust.

Dont buy ebay displays as well. The seller assured me that it would fit the RS4 B5 cluster, bought it, and figured out, it's a different display. However since it was soldered (it was'nt working and it was'nt for my cluster) the asshole did'nt take it back under warranty reasons. Ebay buyers protection is also crap.

Eventually i brought it to a company who does this for a living. Costed a little, but got it working in return:



The display is slow tho. You can actually see pixels still being lighted the moment you switch to a different screen. See at it as old plasma, which would burn in after a while.

I'm going for a FIS Display upgrade, watch turbo pressure and all sort of measurements on your FIS. You can even play snake.

[IamtheStig]

Necessary Reanimation of this excellent writeup and thread! My ebay search for replacement LCD has yield dozens of chinese clones. Does anyone know of a reputable source for a replacement VDO LCD?

[IamtheStig]

anyone?

[Erock 00]

I am still doing clusters, let me know if your interested.

[IamtheStig]

I am still doing clusters, let me know if your interested.

What LCD are you using? I hate doing a job twice so I'm trying to find a VDO replacement.

[hikaru]

https://www.speedosolutions.com/Audi...vice-_p_1.html He did mine 6 years ago using OEM VDO. He is mpower on audizine

[harryn]

Wow glad to see this thread resurrected. I know a person that had the Chinese LCD he bought off eBay, and he did the window tint trick to fix the contrast. It worked fine. The LCD did not last him past one year. He then bought another Chinese LCD screen from Alibaba, didn't last more than 6 months. He eventually went with a guy up in Pennsylvania, and hasn't looked back since. I did the same with the same Pennsylvania guy, and it has been working great ever since, using the VDO screen.

Lesson learned: don't buy the Chinese garbage.

[TheRussian]

So hey while we are on the subject and the thread is running, has anyone ever used polarized film to cancel out the redish background on the LCD? I did it on my corrado a long time ago... and the Canadian corrado club page is no more so I can't look up the post on it anymore. I got my cluster redone recently by vavJETTAw36 here on Audizine, he did a great job btw... highly recommend him, first time its worked since I owned the car... but the contrasting red LCD background looks so dated... I want to cancel that stuff out, I feel it will really help the look of the cluster.

Here's what I'm talking about. just a thought. could be really cool.
legit.JPG

[4rings5stars]

Def glad this thread was updated. Need one done badly!!

[neveret]

So hey while we are on the subject and the thread is running, has anyone ever used polarized film to cancel out the redish background on the LCD? I did it on my corrado a long time ago... and the Canadian corrado club page is no more so I can't look up the post on it anymore. I got my cluster redone recently by vavJETTAw36 here on Audizine, he did a great job btw... highly recommend him, first time its worked since I owned the car... but the contrasting red LCD background looks so dated... I want to cancel that stuff out, I feel it will really help the look of the cluster.

Here's what I'm talking about. just a thought. could be really cool.
legit.JPG

There are at least two versions of the Chinese screens that I've seen. The cheapest one has really heavy red backlight bleed and the other slightly more expensive one looks quite a bit better but still has some red bleed. Both Chinese screens have glossy finish which will glare terribly and not match the clock and the mileage display. I believe the cheaper Chinese screen was less than 10$ and the better ones were around 25$. The OEM vdo screens are over 100$ and use a tinted film with a matte finish to cancel the light bleed just as you've described. I installed a couple of the nicer Chinese screens and cut pieces of matte iPad screen protectors to get rid of the glare and match as best as possible the clock and odometer screens.

All that to say this; If you're going to spend the money, get the colorMFA. I installed it in my rs4 cluster and it's a mod that's worth every dollar because you interact with it every time you get in the car. A little more expensive and a bit more involved on the install but it breathes new life into an old cluster.

[TheRussian]

There are at least two versions of the Chinese screens that I've seen. The cheapest one has really heavy red backlight bleed and the other slightly more expensive one looks quite a bit better but still has some red bleed. Both Chinese screens have glossy finish which will glare terribly and not match the clock and the mileage display. I believe the cheaper Chinese screen was less than 10$ and the better ones were around 25$. The OEM vdo screens are over 100$ and use a tinted film with a matte finish to cancel the light bleed just as you've described. I installed a couple of the nicer Chinese screens and cut pieces of matte iPad screen protectors to get rid of the glare and match as best as possible the clock and odometer screens.

All that to say this; If you're going to spend the money, get the colorMFA. I installed it in my rs4 cluster and it's a mod that's worth every dollar because you interact with it every time you get in the car. A little more expensive and a bit more involved on the install but it breathes new life into an old cluster.

you actually do that with polarized film, i was a kit that "dubdesignindustries" did for like a ten dollar add on when you got the backlit gauges for the corrado. The original LCD in that was this ugly green with tons of back light, I was going to ask them some advise but they don't exist anymore... which is sad. So potentially you can do this for under 20 bucks. I'll do so more research when I get the time and give it a go. worst comes to worst I lose 20 bucks.

But, all that being said.. Yes to the colorMFA, it will 100% find its way into my cluster when I either up my soldering skills and grow a pair, or when I can justify the 500 bucks to buy it and have it installed lol. one of the two is going to happen haha.

[IamtheStig]

https://www.speedosolutions.com/Audi...vice-_p_1.html He did mine 6 years ago using OEM VDO. He is mpower on audizine

Thanks for the link but it looks like VDO screens are out of stock. I did find another option for "European made OEM output (brightness/contrast) LCD panel" - https://www.speedosolutions.com/Audi...rvice_p_2.html

Does anyone have experience with this screen?

[Erock 00]

I have some OEM style replacement screens if you want to get yours fixed send me a PM


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine