
Originally Posted by
a4wd
Hey guys, Ive been wondering the symptoms of a bad MAF. My car has been sputtering at idle. Ive changed the plugs, coilpacks, and tried cleaning the MAF. Ive been getting multiple misfire codes on cylinders #1 and #2. After cleaning the MAF, the car is doing the same thing, where it sputters and idle is really rough....
I have a K&N and i think thats why my MAF maybe going bad....
I hate this part of owning an Audi $hit!!
'tis the season to be blowings MAFS (cold air, dense air, and "turbo weather).
There are two ways to diagnose symptoms of a bad MAF.
Method #1: "Buy another one, you rich motherf*cka!" -Rick James/David Chappelle
or
Method #2: The "educated" and possibly cheaper method, using deductive reasoning.
Ok...this is what to do: Do you have a VAG-COM?
Go into your measuring blocks, and go to Group 003. There, you will see your grams/sec readings from your MAF. At idle (with engine warm at operating temperature), it should be around 2.0-5.0 g/s (grams per second).
During this same time, also measure group 033, this tells you how much % of fuel is being added or taken away out of your A/F mixture (it should typically be only a few percent +/-).
Also, measure group 032 (same time as well). This is your Long-Term Fuel Trims...or adapted fuel trim based on 033 above. This is an aggregate of block 03xx above, of the "learned" values of driving the car through time (in percentage)... get that number.
I want to see if your MAF is actually working or doing it's job, or is it something else. Even a BAD MAF could still give you the 2.0-5.0 g/s readings, so that is why it's good to know if your car is leaning out or being too rich. I can tell you to get into your lambda (O2 sensors) settings as well, but that will be next. Typically a bad MAF is more likely to give you rough idle than a bad O2 (wideband) would.
Finally, after you get these readings, go into your fault code section, and "Clear Codes" (whether you have codes or not), this will reset all adaption. Now turn off the car, unplug the MAF, and fire it back up and read groups 032 and 033 again. Now watch the percentage or short term and long term idle trims, and look at how much it adds/subtracts now. Of course, should your idle stabilize, your trims would either be leaning out (you were too rich before), or richening up (you were getting lean missfires before)...this will conclude that your MAF is 100% "dead".
Good luck.
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