Serpentine Belt Replacement Help (3.0L)

**Ebbsnflows** · 12-16-2008 03:34 PM

My serpentine belt just popped today (fortunately it happened while in my driveway as I was about to leave for work). I've noticed some squeeling over the past week or so (since the weather has gotten colder) and fully intended to replace it this weekend...but the process has been sped up a bit now after some "strong encouragement" from my car. LOL

Since the belt popped (and was just dangling in my engine bay) I didn't get a chance to look at how it routed. Does anyone have a diagram of the Belt-routing?

Also...where is the tensioner release? My LS1 camaro uses a standard 3/8" ratchet head to release the tensioner for belt install/removal...but I can't seem to see it on my Audi (visibility and space is limited).

**Splattj** · 12-16-2008 06:30 PM

According to the manual, you have to compress the tensioner with a VAG special tool. Hopefully someone else can chime in with the garage mechanic method of removal.

**NyteEscape** · 12-16-2008 07:50 PM

when is it a good time to change this out? should i stick w/ the 1.8t guidelines and do it around 65k?

just picked up a 3.0 so i'm still learning a few things...

**Ebbsnflows** · 12-16-2008 08:38 PM

Originally Posted by Splattj

According to the manual, you have to compress the tensioner with a VAG special tool. Hopefully someone else can chime in with the garage mechanic method of removal.

Thanks for the diagram. That was exactly what I needed. Although I'm a little concerned about the "VAG" tool indications. Can anyone offer an alternative method?

My other concern is why the belt snapped to start with. As I said earlier, I had developed a squeel over the past week or so (belt dressing provided no relief) and I suspect closer examination will reveal a seized pulley (I checked the A/C pulley and the P/S pulley and both spin freely. I doubt its the alternator either as I've had no charging/flickering issues). I expect to find a bad tensioner roller :-( Does anyone know if Autozone, Advanced or Napa carry Audi belts? I just don't want deal w/ the stealership if I can avoid it.

**Ebbsnflows** · 12-17-2008 04:56 AM

Ok, I was able to look at the situation this a.m. in daylight. It does seem that the Tensioner is seized (assuming that it should roll freely with no belt on it).

It's extremely difficult to see (due to sharp angle/no room), but it almost appears to utilize a standard Allen Head to release the tensioner. Can anyone confirm/deny this?

Regardless it seems that I will need to replace the tensioner roller assembly...anyone have advice/tips on this?

**jdmnomore** · 12-23-2008 05:04 AM

What did the squeeling sound like and where was it coming from. Im in a b6 S4 and having similar issues, the sound is best described as a very loud bumble bee. Im not sure how similar our motors are but mines seems to be coming from the front end of the engine bay close to the drivers side wheel. It also didnt start until it got cold and at one point went away when it got warm now it is persistent. Thx for any info.

**illaudiill** · 12-23-2008 07:24 AM

I really like that diagram

**road_tripper** · 12-23-2008 03:12 PM

you might find some hints in here.

**B-Rob** · 12-24-2008 07:22 PM

Originally Posted by Ebbsnflows

Ok, I was able to look at the situation this a.m. in daylight. It does seem that the Tensioner is seized (assuming that it should roll freely with no belt on it).

It's extremely difficult to see (due to sharp angle/no room), but it almost appears to utilize a standard Allen Head to release the tensioner. Can anyone confirm/deny this?

Regardless it seems that I will need to replace the tensioner roller assembly...anyone have advice/tips on this?

I did this a few weeks ago, it was a total PITA at first but piece of cake after I got the right equipment.

The allen head that you're seeing is either in the middle of the tensioner roller itself (which you'll only need to pull if you actually replace the roller) or the pivot point of the tensioner roller arm/spring (the arm/spring follows more or less the path of the #6 line, down and to the left of the roller).

There's a little silver block/square thingy an inch or two to the right of the tensioner roller, kind of above the crank. It's very difficult to see from the top, so use one of those mirrors-on-a-stick to find it. You have to grab that with the special $160 Audi tool (in case anyone was wondering why they called it a stealership, my asshole is still sore) and force it down.

I've heard rumors that it can be done with a 19mm socket wrench, but I didn't try it. Although that spring has a LOT of force behind it, and would do some serious damage if the wrench slipped off while your hand was in the wrong place.

Also, just get the belt from the dealer. I went to Napa and the one they gave me was an inch too short and still like $4 more expensive, and I had to return it anyways.