DIY - B6 1.8t - Vacuum line and Check Valve removal/simplification

[7speed]

hey Capt. the engine bay looks great

[tibanez]

I don't think I have that cover to the far right either. Looks good. Hey, are all the vacuum hoses that go from the intake manifold, diverter, n75, etc. 1/4"?

I was told that the n75 connects between the pressure side of the turbo and the wastegate. But can the diverter, intake manifold and boost gauge connect to the same lines, or should it be on a seperate line?

[dougyfresh]

vacuum lines are 4mm ID

[tibanez]

either a catch can or dump to the ground

I found a few catch cans... I will go from the T on the back of the valve cover to the catch can... and should I then go from the catch can to the intake, after the maf?

[tibanez]

I have a hose going from the brake booster to the intake manifold. Should I place a check valve in this line to prevent the brake from getting stiff?

[absolutegtr]

Brake booster has an internal check valve so there is no need to

[BOPOH]

check this out i found great diagram of our engine plus what i want to do(if its possible): use SAI as supercharger

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3953540
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...28#post3130628

[nihil]

This should be good...

[tibanez]

Brake booster has an internal check valve so there is no need to

OH... Shoot. So I must have something else going wrong with the brakes. But it seem it felt this way after re-arranging my hoses and such.

[absolutegtr]

How does you brake pedal feel?

[tketke]

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...roduct=FMEGRBP

Another option for a block off plate. I know people were having a hard time getting the integrated engineering plate.

[Molotov]

you can also find a thick piece of aluminum and make your own block off plate... practically free!

[tibanez]

How does you brake pedal feel?

Well, it feels stiff. Can't really step on it, like I should. And the car doesn't really hold. I've only experienced this while I driving parking lot speed.. and I would rev the engine a bit (i drive a 5speed, for sound effects) and I want to then stop.

I am just worried it might not work right when I am driving thru curvy mountain side roads.

[BOPOH]

sounds like ur brake boost line came apart, i had that happend to me, very strange feeling :)

[B6Lovin]

Well, it feels stiff. Can't really step on it, like I should. And the car doesn't really hold. I've only experienced this while I driving parking lot speed.. and I would rev the engine a bit (i drive a 5speed, for sound effects) and I want to then stop.

I am just worried it might not work right when I am driving thru curvy mountain side roads.

yeah, not normal at all. i've got all this done and have no problems with any curvy roads or my brakes (well, no problems with my brakes other than them being stock + nicer pads...)

check your booster line like suggested

[absolutegtr]

If you had a crack/hold in teh lines your car would have a boost leak and run poorly.

I am willing to bet the line you used is collapsing under vacuum, therefore no vacuum is being drawn upon the brake booster

I know because it happened to me, lol

[tibanez]

Thanks for all your suggestions..

When you say brake boost line, we are talking about the line going from the manifold to the brake boost? Yeah, I used some of the lines that are not in use anymore. The original line was like an S. I used this line, and then added another left over to reach to the manifold.

But I should check to make sure the unions are tight.

B6Lovin... have you upgraded your brakes yet.. if not which one are you thinking of getting. That the next phase.. brakes, suspension and wheels

[absolutegtr]

Don't reuse the old lines there junk

Buy new vacuum line. I bet you problem is the old ones are collapsing under vacuum

[tibanez]

shoot, ok.

The sizes of the brake booster hose is1/2"?

So, before when I had everything stock, it was important for the T on the back of the cover to be air tight, since it still was part of the vacuum system. But now, since my head doesn't have egr, or secondary pump. It's ok to be open. thats not the problem, right?

I just bought bentley dvd and I can't wait to get it, so I can review all of these eliminations, which I believe will make it easier to detect problems. of course, once i understand the basics. :)

[tketke]

Can someone explain exactly how the suction pump and vacuum resevoir work? Possibly with a diagram. I am leaving it intact, but removing the sai. I was planning on replacing the t-check valve with a regular one inlet check valve to keep the suction pump functioning.

[tketke]

And I do mean after the sai and and n-249 are disconnected.

[B6Lovin]

B6Lovin... have you upgraded your brakes yet.. if not which one are you thinking of getting. That the next phase.. brakes, suspension and wheels

i've got b5s4 brakes sitting about 2 feet away from me with some rotors from adam@spp (you da man woody) but just no pads, time, or patience to do it now. stock brakes are keeping me from getting in any accidents, but rapid decel from 150+ takes its toll on your pads after you do it a few times (so do curvy roads lol)

if you can swing the money, just get a legit brake kit and call it a day. it won't stop you any harder or faster than the b5 or b6 s4 brakes... but it'll stop them that hard over and over and over and over and over with no sign of stopping (lol, no pun intended). not to mention a lot of BBK's are a hell of a lot lighter than OEM kits. btw, ECS brake kits are way overpriced IMO, so look around... a lot of people seem to do that as a cheap way out - but there's better brake kits for way less money.

remind me and i'll get a picture of how i have my booster set up tomorrow when i snap a few other pictures people have been asking for.

Don't reuse the old lines there junk

Buy new vacuum line. I bet you problem is the old ones are collapsing under vacuum

yeah, there's a reason that the stock line to the booster is such a heavy gauge and made of that weird vinyl plastic. stick to something bigger and heavy

[Capt. Obvious]

Updated pic of my engine bay just for giggles:

[AudiA4_20T]

Darrick something is missing in the left side of the bay lol

[Capt. Obvious]

Darrick something is missing in the left side of the bay lol

For now.

[absolutegtr]

Looking good.

You need a cover of somesort though on the passenger side....

[a4rings]

So do you loop a vacuum line to both ends of the sensor under the manifold that is closer to the front of the manifold or the one that is closer to the back of the manifold? i ask this because in the picture with the big blue drawn on vac hose you have it looped on the sensor that is towards the back of the intake mani, while on your final drawing you have the sensor towards the front of the mani looped.

also i want to leave the EGR stuff in place so i dont get a CEL and the vacuum line that goes from the EGR valve goes into the sensor under the manifold that is closer to the bacl of the manifold, can i just leave that plugged in there? or is there another place i can run it so i dont get a CEL? thanks alot man

one last thing: do you just leave the opening for the EVAP line to the N75 open?

[absolutegtr]

one last thing: do you just leave the opening for the EVAP line to the N75 open?

Look a little closer to where that line EVAP line runs too....its not to the N75

[Doctor]

This is what I did with mine.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...77#post3214077

Your thread helped me a lot.
Even though I've got a B7 1.8T and there are some differences.

Thanks a lot

[maclem8223]

Ok I'm almost done but I can't seem to find the hard line tube that is part of the crankcase breather system does someone have a better pic or able to provide a little more insight TIA

[maclem8223]

anyone???

[maclem8223]

that and I have three holes to plug on the neuspeed tip???

[absolutegtr]

I think I had two holes to plug on my (stock) TIP....

cant reallt recall 100% right now

[maclem8223]

I have three after going by your diy down to the T. I'll plug all three; what about the hard line on the crankcase breather the last step if I remember correctly. Can you elaborate a little on it's location or maybe a little better of a pic TIA

[02A4_B6]

the crankcase breather tube is on top of the oil filter housing. right above the oil filter. it comes up and the 90 degree turn and about 4 inches of plactic pipe pointing in the direction of the firewall. u need to run a line to from the T on the back of the manifod

[maclem8223]

I figured it out but thanks!

[02A4_B6]

just out of curiousity. i think i read somewhere in this thread that someone ran a line from the valve cover T to the exhaust to create constant vacuum....has any one measured how much vacuum that connection created?

[absolutegtr]

Have been meaning to do that but haven't yet

I wonder if Daniel (b6lovin) has done this yet? It was his idea...

[Condo]

just out of curiousity. i think i read somewhere in this thread that someone ran a line from the valve cover T to the exhaust to create constant vacuum....has any one measured how much vacuum that connection created?

That's how I have my setup. I have a line directly from the block breather going to a Tee on the back of the valve cover. I have another line going from the tee to a catch can and the last line going from there to the exhaust with a check valve.

Here's a good view of my first setup without the intake manifold in the way.



Here's what it looks like now after switching to -10AN lines.



You can see the tee on the back of the valve cover a little better in this pic.



This pic shows where the line from the catch can is routed into the downpipe.

[ziggituning]

One question about ripping all this stuff out, how would it affect the car in cold weather? -20F ish weather for cold starts and cold idle/ driving, anyopne have any theories or feedback?