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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 16 2006
    AZ Member #
    12608
    Location
    Miami, FL

    Brake Fluid For Track Events : Motul RBF 600 vs Castrol SRF

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    S4 Wiki - Brakes

    According to the link above, 2 bottles of Motul (33.8 oz) costs $30 whereas 1 bottle of Castrol SRF (33.8 oz) costs $70.

    Castrol SRF's dry boiling point (590 degrees F) is actually slighly lower than Motul RBF600's (593 degrees F), but Castrol SRF has a much higher wet boiling point (518 degrees F vs 420 degrees F).

    I'm trying to decide whether or not it's worth the extra money for the increased wet boiling point. Regardless of the fluid chosen, I would most likely use the same fluid for the entire track season (5-7 days) so in reality it would only be a one time annual purchase and in the scheme of things $40 extra dollars per year isn't much.

    Before I decide, thought I'd ask here to see if 1.) anyone tracks their car 2.) anyone has experience with either of these brake fluids 3.) anyone has experience with both fluids

    Thanks in advance for any help.

  2. #2
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 24 2005
    AZ Member #
    8088
    Location
    Europe

    I've had my share of clutch problems so I've used the cheapest fluid found and it has been ok at the track too. No fading, but I'm not pro by any means.

    I have movit 342 front and ecs stg1 rear so I think they can keep the fluid a bit happier than stock. If you still have stoptechs I dont think they are that much different at the track.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 16 2006
    AZ Member #
    12608
    Location
    Miami, FL

    Originally posted by smurfbusa
    I've had my share of clutch problems so I've used the cheapest fluid found and it has been ok at the track too. No fading, but I'm not pro by any means.

    I have movit 342 front and ecs stg1 rear so I think they can keep the fluid a bit happier than stock. If you still have stoptechs I dont think they are that much different at the track.
    I'm not going cheap this year on fluid, pedal got too soft this past track season Valvoline DOT 4. BTW, e-mail me if this is the same smurfbus from AW.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings illusive45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 13 2004
    AZ Member #
    452
    My Garage
    2009 Audi R8 - Gated Manual V10 | Former: 2006 A6 Avant 3.2:: Techno|Premium|Cold Weather
    Location
    SF Bay

    Motul RBF is the shiet...believe me, its more than adequate for track use. Are you running Stoptechs? Alcons? or stocks?
    2009 Audi R8 V10 Gated Manual Sepang Blue, Tuscan Brown interior, Carbon Sigma Sideblades, Carbon interior, Stasis tune, Stasis exhaust, JRZ RS Pro 3 coilovers, HRE P40SC 20" wheels
    Former:2006 Audi A6 Avant 3.2:: Atlas Grey|Black leather
    2000 Santorin Blue S4 6MT , 1999 Volcano Black A4 1.8TQM, 1992 Sentra SE-R
    Track Weapon:: 2004 BMW M3 6MT

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 16 2006
    AZ Member #
    12608
    Location
    Miami, FL

    Originally posted by illusive45
    Motul RBF is the shiet...believe me, its more than adequate for track use. Are you running Stoptechs? Alcons? or stocks?
    Stoptech 332mm BBK up front and S8 rotors in back.

  6. #6
    Registered Member Four Rings dramaticstatic's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2004
    AZ Member #
    2126
    My Garage
    2000 S4
    Location
    Delaware

    Do you actually boil you fluid? My guess is no, the sign of boiling brake fluid is the pedal goes completely to the ground as if there were a lot of air in the system. If the pedal goes soft then that is your rotors and pads, not fluid.
    My recomendation would be to get something cheaper that still has a high dry boiling point and change it often as you should be doing anyways because you track the car. That is much better than using the best you can find and leaving it in for the whole season.
    Drowning is my third favorite way to die.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 16 2006
    AZ Member #
    12608
    Location
    Miami, FL

    Originally posted by dramaticstatic
    Do you actually boil you fluid? My guess is no, the sign of boiling brake fluid is the pedal goes completely to the ground as if there were a lot of air in the system. If the pedal goes soft then that is your rotors and pads, not fluid.
    My recomendation would be to get something cheaper that still has a high dry boiling point and change it often as you should be doing anyways because you track the car. That is much better than using the best you can find and leaving it in for the whole season.
    Thanks for the advice. I already decided I am going with more aggressive pads this season (Pagid RS14Black instead of Orange). I have plenty of rotor already. I am such a bum, but maybe I'll change fluid more often.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings S4 Dan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 04 2005
    AZ Member #
    6341
    My Garage
    2000 A8, 1992 300zx, 2000 R1
    Location
    Connecticut

    Originally posted by PiggieSmalls
    Thanks for the advice. I already decided I am going with more aggressive pads this season (Pagid RS14Black instead of Orange). I have plenty of rotor already. I am such a bum, but maybe I'll change fluid more often.
    haha, i agree.... im also a bum when it comes to doing crap like that.... theres no motivation to do it.... ever, haha

    keep us updated on how you like the brake fluid so it makes our choices easier in the future
    2000 Audi S4 - Rip (Someone elses bad)
    1991 300zx TT - Rip (My Bad)
    1992 300zx - Hope I have better luck
    2000 Audi A8

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 28 2005
    AZ Member #
    7058
    My Garage
    2001 S4 Avant
    Location
    Steamboat Springs, CO

    I run ~ 5 track/lapping days a year using Motul RBF600. I change it at the beginning of the season and at the end of the season and bleed as necessary. No issues whatsoever. Alcon 6 pot up front with the floating rotors in back.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 16 2006
    AZ Member #
    12608
    Location
    Miami, FL

    Originally posted by wagongotya
    I run ~ 5 track/lapping days a year using Motul RBF600. I change it at the beginning of the season and at the end of the season and bleed as necessary. No issues whatsoever. Alcon 6 pot up front with the floating rotors in back.
    Alcon 6 Pot > Stoptech ST-40

    E-mail me, want to tell you a little somethin' somethin'

  11. #11
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Oct 31 2006
    AZ Member #
    13018
    Location
    Massachusetts

    Originally posted by PiggieSmalls
    I'm not going cheap this year on fluid, pedal got too soft this past track season Valvoline DOT 4.
    I used that Valvoline junk on my bike last year and it sucks. I am a crazed brake bleeder and still had a hard time getting solid levers. Switched back to Motul and its great again. This was on a Ducati 748 w/ brembo's. Not sure what it is with that Valvoline "synthetic" crap but it is not at all good.
    -=SlowSilverTIPJason::FreeJD=-

  12. #12
    Registered Member Four Rings dramaticstatic's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2004
    AZ Member #
    2126
    My Garage
    2000 S4
    Location
    Delaware

    Originally posted by PiggieSmalls
    Thanks for the advice. I already decided I am going with more aggressive pads this season (Pagid RS14Black instead of Orange). I have plenty of rotor already. I am such a bum, but maybe I'll change fluid more often.
    There's an article here http://www.bira.org/ that talks about it. They say to use Ford HD truck brake fluid as the dry boiling point is pretty much the same as a good track fluid and it's super cheap. The wet point is lower but you can combat that by changing the fluid more often.

    I know it's a pain in the ass to do but it's much better to change your fluid more often than to use even the best fluid for the whole season.
    Drowning is my third favorite way to die.

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