Apex forged wheels installed. Undiluted true feedback

[S3DUDE]

Occasionally, I do reviews on aftermarket parts even if there is another review already floating around on google. I couldn't resist talking nothing but good things about Apex Forged wheels, their customer service, quick shipping and incredible R&D department. I picked this set of 18x9.5" and 18X9" staggered set of brushed aluminum VS-5RS while on sale. I picked the free ground shipping and it only took 3 days to arrive. Look, the highlight of these wheels are the looks, the weight, fitment and how well they are designed.

Hear me out, a few years ago I purchased a nice set of 18x8.5" Konig Hypergrams for a S3 (8V), great wheel for the price, very light and very cheap although the offset wasn't ideal. I sold the S3 and moved to the RS3 (8V). Unfortunately the inner wheel barrel on the Konigs wouldn't clear the hard lower brake lines of the 8V caliper. Basically the caliper was too long and the hard brake line would touch the inner barrel. Then I tried the Neuspeeds RS-10 18x8.5 " with a hub centric ring. What a great set of wheels these were. Good looking, fairly light, fairly cheap and it worked flawlessly for my 8V RS3 square set-up. Sold the RS3 8V and tried them on the 8Y RS3 and all you already know the offset on these cars are completely off by a long shot.

Why did I told you all of this? Because I think that Apex wheels nailed it from the very beginning. They focused on a platform (8Y RS3) and they made the wheels around it. Sort of like going to a tailor and having him do a suit that fits like a glove instead of going to Sears and just buying a generic suit that still fits but is not tailored to you. Thumbs up to Apex for truly making a wheel around this bizarre and weird 8Y RS3 platform. The center bore fits perfectly, no need to do a hub centric. The offset is spot on, it sits flush with the width off the car, no need to do the spacers (in my case) and the spokes clear the large calipers radially and on the inner barrel. As a matter of fact, how wicked the design of this inner barrel is that they actually went in and made the inner side even wider so that the caliper fills in the entire space. Unfortunately I no longer have any more memory to post pictures so my son is uploading a video on YouTube to show the fitment.

Their marketing logo is a true statement: Performance is not a luxury. Although these wheels are not necessarily cheap but for the price and when compared to other top tier brands like Porsche, these wheels appears to be reasonably affordable for what they offer. On my last note I want to personally thank Paul at Supreme for getting with me several times. Although I ended up not buying the wheels from him due to not being on sale at the time I want to thank him for the time to respond.

Lastly I also want to put a good word on Neuspeed (again). I purchased their MQB specific TPMS, they were on sale for like $45 a piece. They shipped fast and they worked flawlessly. I was completely uncertain about how to program, reset this TPMS but as it turns out my 8Y RS3 learned them just by driving 5-6 miles. Thanks to Jerry Tambayong for suggesting another 5 star product (I highly recommend it). On that note, remember, Neuspeed also has a specific set of wheels tailored to the 8Y RS3 reverse staggered.

Here is the video of the wheels installed: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Z8hKkKCQl5g

For the data nerds(as measured on my scale):

OEM front wheel on OEM Bridgestone on 1/32 (almost bald) , wheel and tire combo 51.2 lbs (19X8.5" wheels)
OEM front wheel on OEM Bridgestone on 1/32 (almost bald) , wheel and tire combo 43.8 lbs. (19x8" wheels)

Apex 18x9.5" wheels 265/35/18 new Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS 46.4lbs (new wheel and new tire)
Apex 18x8.5" wheels 245/40/18 New Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS 43.2lbs (New wheels and tire)

Apples to oranges and here is why:
1) new tires vs worn out tires ...obviously the new ones will have more meet/beef and consequently should weight more
2) Bridgestones potenzas RE71RS are heavy (28lbs front and 25lbs rear) vs OEM Bridgestone sports listed on two version of 22lbs and 26 lbs fronts and 20 and 21lbs rears


NEW PICTURES ADDED FROM THIS SUNDAY TIME ATTACK AT MUSSELMAN HONDA CIRCUIT. PICTURES ON THE LINK BELOW:

https://lightroom.adobe.com/shares/6d330920497d4dca895a95291f7c5a85

[993140]

Thanks for the review. The Apex look great on your car...👍

[StrongOnline007]

Looks awesome with the silver rings/badges.

[S3DUDE]

Thanks for the review. The Apex look great on your car...👍

Thanks buddy. This Sunday is judgement day. We will be doing time attack at Honda Musselman Circuit here in Tucson. My son will be doing most of the driving. I am curious to see what this brand new set-up will improve. Our best previous lap times were 59.8 sec on worn out oem tires. The only small concern that I currently have is that despite running a 265/35/18 Front and 245/40/18 in the rears there is a slight rubbing on the little rear quarter panel plastic. The car is aggressively lowered but not slammed to the ground, it is probably lowered like 1 or 1.25". I need to either remove that little plastic trim or raise the rear KW V3 like 3/4 ".

Rear OEM tire diameter is 25.8" on the stock 245/35/19 vs what we put which is 25.7" (245/40/18") however the sidewall is now 3.9" vs 3.4" stock which is a 14.7" fatter.

[S3DUDE]

Thanks for the review. The Apex look great on your car...👍

Thank you. The center caps were a really tight fit, I had to tap them with a mallet, you can't press them on with the thumb, they are too tight. When the car is rolling in traffic is a show, lots of people looking. The calipers completely fill the wheel, I mean, completely because of the design of the wheel that allows the caliper to true sit around and behind the inner ring. These guys knew what they were doing, they built that bead of the wheel very shallow to allow the inner barrel to go wider in diameter to accommodate the large caliper. The effect is a caliper that looks larger than the view of the inner barrel. It totally looks like a race car.

[Rguy]

Waiting on my set of Apex ML10s that were supposed to ship by Late November in 19" sizes. Probably #2weeks away.

[smf4444]

that looks so dope dude. one of my top wheel choices rn when i decide to pull the trigger. would just be going for a squared setup. i really wanna run 265 squared

[S3DUDE]

Waiting on my set of Apex ML10s that were supposed to ship by Late November in 19" sizes. Probably #2weeks away.

Nice. I did not go with the 19" mainly for the lesser variety of tires choices. There are a handful for what I want/need and they are consequently more expensive as well. I am looking for a 200TW tire set and 18 " market is where is at.

[Rguy]

yea im going big time sticky, R888R.

[S3DUDE]

that looks so dope dude. one of my top wheel choices rn when i decide to pull the trigger. would just be going for a squared setup. i really wanna run 265 squared

Thanks brother. Here is something that I need to add as far is my opinion on square vs reverse staggered. If you do a search on my history I used to trash the reverse staggered set up. I never liked it and I challenged the theory of handling but my complaint was on the 8V platform, Something about this new 8Y RS3 platform that made me change my mind completely and here is why:

1) The 8Y RS3 comes with proper factory hardware such as true wider fenders, wider front track, possibly extended axles but definitely wider tires and wheels
2) The wicked rear differential that does the rear end magic and compensates.
3) The appropriate designed offset.

Audi gave you a small choice of staggered tires on the 8V RS3. I built my previous RS3 (8V) and went to Ingolstad to pick it up but I was never convinced on the staggered set up on the 8V , however, the new 8Y I think that they really put the effort and it shows not only at Nurburgring but also the car magazines and true road courses testing. I found myself already feeling very confident on the 3 track days on the 8Y RS3 so far.

You can't go wrong with your square set-up and I don't want to discourage you either. I think the 8Y looks sick either way but this was more of my personal choice and preference. The advantage of the square set-up is the tire rotation and hassle free choice of tires, no more mismatching tire profiles, width and the headaches..lol[headbang][:|][:|]

On my last road course at Inde Motorsport Ranch I felt invincible. It is Arizona's premier track and my car was sliding on the rear with the traction control on sport. I never felt so confident on a car like I did that day and I was on stock worn (1/32 OEM Bridgestone 300 TW tires) but that rear rotation was beautiful and controllable, this track is a big track with many turns and changes of elevation and there are a couple of sports similar to the "corkscrew" of Laguna seca. I wish though that we could put more rubber in the back but we can't. This car is narrow, they should have done a wide rear panel. I need Toyota Corolla Gas putting 295's and they're so well. I have a friend with a base model 718 cayman with 295's and this two cars aren't that much wider than the RS3 in the back. Looks like 265's is as much as you can squeeze.

[S3DUDE]

yea im going big time sticky, R888R.

The R888 are 100 TW right? is gets silly expensive on that group. Take a look at the new purple series from Hossier. Also look at the Nankang, they have 100TW ones. I just don't have the cash to blow on 100TW, it is too expensive for my budget. I can do 200TW and I am already stretching it... lol

[Jetdriver]

Are those OE center caps that fit into the Apex wheels?

[S3DUDE]

Are those OE center caps that fit into the Apex wheels?

Yes sir!!! another bonus. You can't put them (center caps) it with your bare hands o thumbs. I am a freak of nature with true gorilla hands and you can't push them in. You will need to tap them with a mallet. They are a super tight fit but once they are in they are in super tight, it took me a few hard hits to push them in even with amulet. Thanks God the oem center cap is robust and did not cracked.. The stock ones you can push them out of the OEM wheel with your thumb effortlessly.

[NapalmEnema]

Very cool man enjoy!

[Jetdriver]

They are nice wheels. I'm still waiting for more pics of them in gold to make a decision.

[Nando7057]

Looks great!!!

[S3DUDE]

Quick update on the fitment. Please take note because it can benefit you in the future. The rear tires were rubbing even at low speeds, I just did not noticed it because I did not put enough miles over bumps or turns. Initially I spotted signs of rubbing against the little 8" black plastic taps on the rear wheel wells.

I removed the plastic tabs and put blue masking tape(painters tape) to see if I could pinpoint were it was rubbing. We drove for a few miles but even with the plastic tabs removed on both sides the tire appeared to be rubbing on the inner sound proof "carpet" inside the wheel well.

At this point I also realized that after doing the full wheels and tires install the car was slightly pulling to the right and the steering wheel was now off by 1" to my right. At this point I decided to call a friend and bring the car for a computerized 4 wheel alignment. As it turned out the alignment benefited me greatly in a couple of ways. Now the streering wheel is centered and the car no longer pulls to the right(slightly).
Secondly, we gave 2.4 degrees of rear camber and it seems like the car is quiet now. We haven't driven the car hard yet but we went over speed bumps and now my fingers fit in.

the most important tip that I can give you as a car owner is to always be subjective to waht you read. I read the fitment guideline posted on Apex website which goes in detail on how many wheels and tiresd set-ups they sucessfully tried, from square to reverse stagered and from OEM width(265/245 -what I have) to one size wider (275/255) or even the 265/265 square. My car is lowered a good 1 to 1-1/4" (at least) so I am sure that perhaps you wouldn't rub on stock suspension.

Rear camber is now at 2.4 degrees rear driver and 2.5 degrees rear passenger (You can't adjust the front ones). Before the alignment I was at 1.7 degrees.

[stummiller]

I'll throw my fitment experience in for what it's worth.

I am running stock ride height (stock shocks and springs).
I have 034 RCO optimizing front ball joints to get to about -2.6* front camber.
Rear camber adjusted to -2.0* using stock adjustments.
034 rear sway bar and end links
034 front subframe locking collar kit

For street I run stock the wheels on stock size PS4S with 10mm spacers front and rear. No rubbing.
For track I have Neuspeed RSe-10 18x9.0 ET45 square wheel setup w 034 20 mm front spacers, no rear spacers. Currently running Yokohama AD-09 265/35 tires front and rear.
Prior to the AD09s I had Hankook R-S4s in 255/35. AD09s in 265/35 are only about 1/8" wider and about 1/2" taller (diameter) than the R-S4s in 255/35 (mounted on same wheels).
No rubbing with either tire but very tight clearances in the rear fender wells.
I think if I was lowered I'd have rubbing in the rear but so far so good.

My advice when deciding what size tire to get is always check specs on Tire Rack or brand manufacturer's sites. Some tires in the same size might have different actual dimensions. Although those might seem like small differences, it matters when you have tight clearances.

[S3DUDE]

^^ Follow us on mylaptimes or speedhive and look for timeattack /HDPE event at Musselman honda circuit (MHC). We will be racing starting in about 90 minutes. We think that we have a good shot at finnishing first (getting the fastest lap). Look for R Hurst RS3 on the tables/list

[S3DUDE]

This new set up helped us tremendously. We got first place today at Musselman Honda Circuit. We dropped 3 full seconds, down from 59.8 sec to 56.8 sec lap (not far from the track record). The 2.5 degree camber helped with the fitment and there was no rubbing during hard cornering. I am 100% it also helped with the acceleration(roll acceleration) and braking and cooling.

We got nothing but compliments on the wheels, they looked astonishing while the car was rolling. The temps were cooler too. The last time that we hit the track was in October and it was 107-108 oct on a heat wave. Today we were in the 60's.

Obviosuly the 3 second time drop was not just on the wheels, the fresh(brand new) RE71 RS on 18" 265/35/18 and 245/40/18 has a positive impact.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/997500-First-place-at-Time-attack-best-PB-and-3-full-seconds-drop

[smf4444]

Quick update on the fitment. Please take note because it can benefit you in the future. The rear tires were rubbing even at low speeds, I just did not noticed it because I did not put enough miles over bumps or turns. Initially I spotted signs of rubbing against the little 8" black plastic taps on the rear wheel wells.

I removed the plastic tabs and put blue masking tape(painters tape) to see if I could pinpoint were it was rubbing. We drove for a few miles but even with the plastic tabs removed on both sides the tire appeared to be rubbing on the inner sound proof "carpet" inside the wheel well.

At this point I also realized that after doing the full wheels and tires install the car was slightly pulling to the right and the steering wheel was now off by 1" to my right. At this point I decided to call a friend and bring the car for a computerized 4 wheel alignment. As it turned out the alignment benefited me greatly in a couple of ways. Now the streering wheel is centered and the car no longer pulls to the right(slightly).
Secondly, we gave 2.4 degrees of rear camber and it seems like the car is quiet now. We haven't driven the car hard yet but we went over speed bumps and now my fingers fit in.

the most important tip that I can give you as a car owner is to always be subjective to waht you read. I read the fitment guideline posted on Apex website which goes in detail on how many wheels and tiresd set-ups they sucessfully tried, from square to reverse stagered and from OEM width(265/245 -what I have) to one size wider (275/255) or even the 265/265 square. My car is lowered a good 1 to 1-1/4" (at least) so I am sure that perhaps you wouldn't rub on stock suspension.

Rear camber is now at 2.4 degrees rear driver and 2.5 degrees rear passenger (You can't adjust the front ones). Before the alignment I was at 1.7 degrees.

well thats kind of annoying. i was hoping i could be lowered and just throw on some of the apex's with ps4s and not have to worry about any fitment issues

[Jetdriver]

well thats kind of annoying. i was hoping i could be lowered and just throw on some of the apex's with ps4s and not have to worry about any fitment issues

1 to 1-1/4" is LOW. I believe he's on adjustable coilovers. Most lowering springs will be around .75-1.00". If you go with something like H&R, they're 1.00" drop in the front and .80" for the rear. With a little more camber, I think you'd be fine. I'm personally leaving my ride height alone with this car. Every time I've lowered a car, it's introduced other issues, whether it was rubbing, extra noises, rough ride, etc. Just not worth the hassle, but I don't track my car.

[S3DUDE]

well thats kind of annoying. i was hoping i could be lowered and just throw on some of the apex's with ps4s and not have to worry about any fitment issues

I track tested them today. No rubbing at all under hard cornering. Pictures are worth 1000 words?, link here with high quality pictures from today: link below:

https://lightroom.adobe.com/shares/6d330920497d4dca895a95291f7c5a85

and topic discusion of the track day here too:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/997500-First-place-at-Time-attack-best-PB-and-3-full-seconds-drop

Had I not done that last minute 4 wheel alignment yesterday afternoon and it would have been a shitty day for me at the track. It would positiviely rub on the inner wheel weel carpet sound material. This is unknown territory for me because i don't know if 2.5 degree of rear camber will wear my tires but it did comfortably cleared my wheel wells. Also, remember, some tires have different footprints. I hear that michelins run wide.

I am significantly lowered so anyone putting the wheels and tires combo on a standard suspsnion should have any issues.

[smf4444]

1 to 1-1/4" is LOW. I believe he's on adjustable coilovers. Most lowering springs will be around .75-1.00". If you go with something like H&R, they're 1.00" drop in the front and .80" for the rear. With a little more camber, I think you'd be fine. I'm personally leaving my ride height alone with this car. Every time I've lowered a car, it's introduced other issues, whether it was rubbing, extra noises, rough ride, etc. Just not worth the hassle, but I don't track my car.

yeah I have EMD springs and its same drop as h&r. is it the extra width of the apex's that r causing the rubbing?

[RS3 Bacchus]

This is great timing for this review. I was between the APR 18in wheels or the Apex SM-10 18x9 for my winter setup. Based on this review I’m going to go with Apex. All I need now is to choose the perfect winter tire for them!

[APEXWheels]

Occasionally, I do reviews on aftermarket parts even if there is another review already floating around on google. I couldn't resist talking nothing but good things about Apex Forged wheels, their customer service, quick shipping and incredible R&D department. I picked this set of 18x9.5" and 18X9" staggered set of brushed aluminum VS-5RS while on sale. I picked the free ground shipping and it only took 3 days to arrive. Look, the highlight of these wheels are the looks, the weight, fitment and how well they are designed.

Hear me out, a few years ago I purchased a nice set of 18x8.5" Konig Hypergrams for a S3 (8V), great wheel for the price, very light and very cheap although the offset wasn't ideal. I sold the S3 and moved to the RS3 (8V). Unfortunately the inner wheel barrel on the Konigs wouldn't clear the hard lower brake lines of the 8V caliper. Basically the caliper was too long and the hard brake line would touch the inner barrel. Then I tried the Neuspeeds RS-10 18x8.5 " with a hub centric ring. What a great set of wheels these were. Good looking, fairly light, fairly cheap and it worked flawlessly for my 8V RS3 square set-up. Sold the RS3 8V and tried them on the 8Y RS3 and all you already know the offset on these cars are completely off by a long shot.

Why did I told you all of this? Because I think that Apex wheels nailed it from the very beginning. They focused on a platform (8Y RS3) and they made the wheels around it. Sort of like going to a tailor and having him do a suit that fits like a glove instead of going to Sears and just buying a generic suit that still fits but is not tailored to you. Thumbs up to Apex for truly making a wheel around this bizarre and weird 8Y RS3 platform. The center bore fits perfectly, no need to do a hub centric. The offset is spot on, it sits flush with the width off the car, no need to do the spacers (in my case) and the spokes clear the large calipers radially and on the inner barrel. As a matter of fact, how wicked the design of this inner barrel is that they actually went in and made the inner side even wider so that the caliper fills in the entire space. Unfortunately I no longer have any more memory to post pictures so my son is uploading a video on YouTube to show the fitment.

Their marketing logo is a true statement: Performance is not a luxury. Although these wheels are not necessarily cheap but for the price and when compared to other top tier brands like Porsche, these wheels appears to be reasonably affordable for what they offer. On my last note I want to personally thank Paul at Supreme for getting with me several times. Although I ended up not buying the wheels from him due to not being on sale at the time I want to thank him for the time to respond.

Lastly I also want to put a good word on Neuspeed (again). I purchased their MQB specific TPMS, they were on sale for like $45 a piece. They shipped fast and they worked flawlessly. I was completely uncertain about how to program, reset this TPMS but as it turns out my 8Y RS3 learned them just by driving 5-6 miles. Thanks to Jerry Tambayong for suggesting another 5 star product (I highly recommend it). On that note, remember, Neuspeed also has a specific set of wheels tailored to the 8Y RS3 reverse staggered.

Here is the video of the wheels installed: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Z8hKkKCQl5g

For the data nerds(as measured on my scale):

OEM front wheel on OEM Bridgestone on 1/32 (almost bald) , wheel and tire combo 51.2 lbs (19X8.5" wheels)
OEM front wheel on OEM Bridgestone on 1/32 (almost bald) , wheel and tire combo 43.8 lbs. (19x8" wheels)

Apex 18x9.5" wheels 265/35/18 new Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS 46.4lbs (new wheel and new tire)
Apex 18x8.5" wheels 245/40/18 New Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS 43.2lbs (New wheels and tire)

Apples to oranges and here is why:
1) new tires vs worn out tires ...obviously the new ones will have more meet/beef and consequently should weight more
2) Bridgestones potenzas RE71RS are heavy (28lbs front and 25lbs rear) vs OEM Bridgestone sports listed on two version of 22lbs and 26 lbs fronts and 20 and 21lbs rears

Conclusion, the Apex are still pretty light and my choice of tires although great for the track but heavy as fkuc.

NEW PICTURES ADDED FROM THIS SUNDAY TIME ATTACK AT MUSSELMAN HONDA CIRCUIT. PICTURES ON THE LINK BELOW:

https://lightroom.adobe.com/shares/6d330920497d4dca895a95291f7c5a85

Thank you for sharing your in-depth review of your new VS-5RS setup! (I will clarify though that the rear wheels are indeed 18x9" ET42 not 18x8.5" ET43).

When the 8Y RS3 first debuted and we learned of the unique OEM wheel fitment, we knew it was going to take a completely new wheel spec compared to other MQB based VW/Audi models to get right, especially to cater to those who would prefer to avoid running large front spacers. We spent a ton of hours with quite a few different 8Y RS3s at our office to dial-in fitment and brake clearance with our new wheels, and clearly that time was well spent given how much positive feedback we have been getting from customers since their release.

For those who aren't familiar with our 8Y RS3 fitment options, we currently offer 2 Forged 8Y-specific reverse staggered setups, the 18x9.5" ET20 and 18x9" ET42 VS-5RS, as well as the 19x9.5" ET20 and 19x9" ET42 ML-10RT.

For those wanting a square setup, you can also use the 18x9" ET42 (available in our Forged VS-5RS/ML-10RT and Flow Formed SM-10 designs), 19x9" ET42 (ML-10RT only), and our track-focused 18x9.5" ET41 (Forged SM-10RS) at all four corners. All of these square setups will typically need 18mm-20mm front spacers to clear the front suspension/brakes and to offer a flush fit with the fenders. You can find all of these fitments, including our recommended tire sizes and any additional supporting mods (if required) via our chassis-specific 8Y RS3 fitment guide here: https://apexwheels.com/fitment-guides/audi/rs-3/audi-8y-rs-3-wheel-and-tire-fitment-guide

If anyone has any technical/fitment questions, please do not hesitate to DM us here on the forums.

-Geirsen

[S3DUDE]

Thank you for sharing your in-depth review of your new VS-5RS setup! When the 8Y RS3 first debuted and we learned of the unique OEM wheel fitment, we knew it was going to take a completely new wheel spec compared to other MQB based VW/Audi models to get right, especially to cater to those who would prefer to avoid running large front spacers. We spent a ton of hours with quite a few different 8Y RS3s at our office to dial-in fitment and brake clearance with our new wheels, and clearly that time was well spent given how much positive feedback we have been getting from customers since their release.

For those who aren't familiar with our 8Y RS3 fitment options, we currently offer 2 Forged 8Y-specific reverse staggered setups, the 18x9.5" ET20 and 18x9" ET42 VS-5RS, as well as the 19x9.5" ET20 and 19x9" ET42 ML-10RT.

For those wanting a square setup, you can also use the 18x9" ET42 (available in our Forged VS-5RS/ML-10RT and Flow Formed SM-10 designs), 19x9" ET42 (ML-10RT only), and our track-focused 18x9.5" ET41 (Forged SM-10RS) at all four corners. All of these square setups will typically need 18mm-20mm front spacers to clear the front suspension/brakes and to offer a flush fit with the fenders. You can find all of these fitments, including our recommended tire sizes and any additional supporting mods (if required) via our chassis-specific 8Y RS3 fitment guide here: https://apexwheels.com/fitment-guides/audi/rs-3/audi-8y-rs-3-wheel-and-tire-fitment-guide

If anyone has any technical/fitment questions, please do not hesitate to DM us here on the forums.

-Geirsen

Thanks you for acknowledging this post. These wheels truly checked all the checkmarks and boxes. Also, thank you for sharing my pictures on your wesbite. The more that I look at the pictures the more convinced I am in regards of the fitment. Pictures #14 and #22 on the link that I provided shows how hard we were cornering, the side wall is almost completely tucked in the rear.

Last night my wife got home from work and I was walking in the garage between the two cars and I stopped for a moment to really appreciate the fitment. It is like night and day, the OEM wheels are sank inwards on her Kyalami while my Turbo Blue looks like a bulldog with the wide stance and the wheels/tire combo on the edge.

Like I said before, your R&D paid off big time. Car enthusiast should appreciate the top quality product that you guys put out. It is a bullseye when you combined everything in one package: light weight , appeal, performance.

Lastly, I want people to take note regarding fitment. These wheels/tires fits just fine on stock suspesnion but will not fit properly in the rear if you are significantly lowered like my car is. I am on KW V3 and dropped about 1.25" to 1.5". My 245/40/18(Potenzas RE71RS) on the Apex VS-5RS 18x8.5" will rub on the rear. It rubs on the rear 8" black plastic tabs on the rear wheel weel and once the plastic tabs are removed it will lightly rub on the sound deadening inner carpet.

In order to eliminate the rear rubbing you will need to do at least 2 degrees of negative camber in the rear (I am running a 2.4 and a 2.5 degree). If you are lowered you need an alignment anyways.

[smf4444]

Thank you for sharing your in-depth review of your new VS-5RS setup! (I will clarify though that the rear wheels are indeed 18x9" ET42 not 18x8.5" ET43).

When the 8Y RS3 first debuted and we learned of the unique OEM wheel fitment, we knew it was going to take a completely new wheel spec compared to other MQB based VW/Audi models to get right, especially to cater to those who would prefer to avoid running large front spacers. We spent a ton of hours with quite a few different 8Y RS3s at our office to dial-in fitment and brake clearance with our new wheels, and clearly that time was well spent given how much positive feedback we have been getting from customers since their release.

For those who aren't familiar with our 8Y RS3 fitment options, we currently offer 2 Forged 8Y-specific reverse staggered setups, the 18x9.5" ET20 and 18x9" ET42 VS-5RS, as well as the 19x9.5" ET20 and 19x9" ET42 ML-10RT.

For those wanting a square setup, you can also use the 18x9" ET42 (available in our Forged VS-5RS/ML-10RT and Flow Formed SM-10 designs), 19x9" ET42 (ML-10RT only), and our track-focused 18x9.5" ET41 (Forged SM-10RS) at all four corners. All of these square setups will typically need 18mm-20mm front spacers to clear the front suspension/brakes and to offer a flush fit with the fenders. You can find all of these fitments, including our recommended tire sizes and any additional supporting mods (if required) via our chassis-specific 8Y RS3 fitment guide here: https://apexwheels.com/fitment-guides/audi/rs-3/audi-8y-rs-3-wheel-and-tire-fitment-guide

If anyone has any technical/fitment questions, please do not hesitate to DM us here on the forums.

-Geirsen

what tire sizes can we fit with the 18x9.5" ET20 and 18x9" ET42 VS-5RS's with no rubbing and no camber adjustments needed? that will work for lowered users as well since most of us are here, i think typical drop is like .8 front 1.0 rear

[APEXWheels]

Thanks you for acknowledging this post. These wheels truly checked all the checkmarks and boxes. Also, thank you for sharing my pictures on your wesbite. The more that I look at the pictures the more convinced I am in regards of the fitment. Pictures #14 and #22 on the link that I provided shows how hard we were cornering, the side wall is almost completely tucked in the rear.

Last night my wife got home from work and I was walking in the garage between the two cars and I stopped for a moment to really appreciate the fitment. It is like night and day, the OEM wheels are sank inwards on her Kyalami while my Turbo Blue looks like a bulldog with the wide stance and the wheels/tire combo on the edge.

Like I said before, your R&D paid off big time. Car enthusiast should appreciate the top quality product that you guys put out. It is a bullseye when you combined everything in one package: light weight , appeal, performance.

Lastly, I want people to take note regarding fitment. These wheels/tires fits just fine on stock suspesnion but will not fit properly in the rear if you are significantly lowered like my car is. I am on KW V3 and dropped about 1.25" to 1.5". My 245/40/18(Potenzas RE71RS) on the Apex VS-5RS 18x8.5" will rub on the rear. It rubs on the rear 8" black plastic tabs on the rear wheel weel and once the plastic tabs are removed it will lightly rub on the sound deadening inner carpet.

In order to eliminate the rear rubbing you will need to do at least 2 degrees of negative camber in the rear (I am running a 2.4 and a 2.5 degree). If you are lowered you need an alignment anyways.

Would you be able to email me ([email protected]) over some pictures of the "pinch point" in the rear that you are noticing the rub on? I have a hunch that it might be more of a rear tire height issue on lowered cars and it could potentially be alleviated by running a wider but shorter 255/35-18 out back instead of the 245/40-18. The overall rolling diameter difference between the 245/40-18 and the 255/35-18 is around 18mm, which could be enough to avoid rubbing without needing additional camber out back.


what tire sizes can we fit with the 18x9.5" ET20 and 18x9" ET42 VS-5RS's with no rubbing and no camber adjustments needed? that will work for lowered users as well since most of us are here, i think typical drop is like .8 front 1.0 rear

It really is going to depend on the specific tire make/model being used when it comes to running this setup on a lowered car. S3DUDE is running our recommended 265/35-18 front and 245/40-18 rear tire sizes in a pretty aggressive track-focused compound (RE71RS) that run quite a bit wider in the shoulders compared to a street tire. Paired with his pretty substantial (1.25" to 1.5") drop in ride height, and the fact that those tires run quite a bit wider/bulkier in the shoulders, are the main reasons why he needed some additional rear negative camber to avoid any rubbing.

That said, we have tested a few different street tires using those wheels in a 265/35-18 front and 245/40-18 rear spec on more mild suspension setups without any rubbing issues to note. Something like a Michelin PS4S or Conti Extreme Contact 06 (street summer performance 300TW category) should offer a complete rub-free fit using OEM camber specs.

-Geirsen

[S3DUDE]

^^ Geirsen, You couldn't had explained it any better. My son suggested the 255/35/18 as an option but we opted on the 245 width base on your description guidelines on your website. I did compared the diameter on the tire size calculator an we were spot on for overall diameter and it was almost a tie : 25.8" diameter for stock and 25.7" for the 245/40/18. Then the issue nwith the taller sidewall I rolled the dices on this because I figured that having the .5" wider wheel should strecth the tire more on the edges and help mitigate the rubbing.

Ultimately it has to do with the design of the tire itself. Some tires have a wider footprint. I keep hearing that the Michelins are wide and feel like one number wider. I picked the Bridgestone Potenzas RE71RS and they are as a matter of fact one of the heaviest in the market but I went with a "safe" set-up in mine keeping it 245's. My next set-up will likely be a 275 fronts and 255 rears.

As soon as the tires were installed we noticed rubbing at low speeds and almost on straight line not even turning. It would make the rubbing noise as soon as you drove over a small crack on the road. Initailly we thought it was just on one side but it was in both sides. First thing was to remove the black plastic 8" tabs. Then we rolled a lot of blue painters tape on the wheel wells but it was definitely rubbing. This rubing became more obvious as we picked more speed and drove through a country side road. We brought potent flashlights and we were clearly able to see that the tire s were rubing on the inner sound daundering material(carpet) inside the wheel well.

We then went for the alignment and the rubbing completely went away. We still did not know if driving hard on the racetrack would cause rubbing but it did not. I can probably back down from the rear camber a little bit and take a gamble with a 2.0 degrees. I am looking at my computerized alignment paper and I was at 1.7 degrees on both rear tires from factory and we left it at 2.4 (rear driver side) and 2.5 (rear passenger side).

Geirsen, I just sent you the pictures of my black plastic tabs and also the printout of the alignment at your expert@apexwheels e-mail

[RS3 Bacchus]

I’m not sure how to post pictures but I just put on the SM-10 18x9 wheels for my winter setup and absolutely love them. They look great, and saved me a huge headache trying to figure out a winter tire setup.

Apex has been one of the best companies I’ve worked with. Very helpful, responsive and provided a lot of advice and guidance during my purchase period.

Very happy with the wheels and Apex over all. I got them in bronze on my white RS3.

[DLL]

Using the 18x9 SM-10’s in square setup with 20mm front spacers on my 8Y for track tires in the summer and snows in the winter:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/029cXL7lnVbmzMj636kSOyWsQ
Nice wheels, but 3# heavier than forged.https://share.icloud.com/photos/029cXL7lnVbmzMj636kSOyWsQ

[Jetdriver]

Using the 18x9 SM-10’s in square setup with 20mm front spacers on my 8Y for track tires in the summer and snows in the winter:
https://share.icloud.com/photos/029cXL7lnVbmzMj636kSOyWsQ
Nice wheels, but 3# heavier than forged.https://share.icloud.com/photos/029cXL7lnVbmzMj636kSOyWsQ

Did you post pictures? If you did, I'm not seeing them.

[RudyH]

sorry, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but its a bit relevant and a bit of a noob question as I hardly call myself a tire expert - only know not to screw around with them!

with the set-up in the video,
Apex 18x9.5" wheels 265/35/18 new Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS 46.4lbs
Apex 18x8.5" wheels 245/40/18 New Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS 43.2lbs

That's pretty much a stretched set-up correct? When I went through tire calculators that will keep the circumference and so it won't throw off speed sensors and odometer, its probably the closest you are going to get.

However, if you tried going 'square', isn't that technically impossible without throwing off those speed sensors and odometer? Like if you put the rear on the front, suddenly things are going to be thrown off?


It had me thinking about my situation with a 18x8 wheel that I have been using for winter tires since my 2010 S4...14 yrs and counting, and was thinking of using that for my maybe, hopeful RS3 future.

OEM 19X8.5" wheels - this might have a tad bit of stretch?
OEM 19x8" wheels - this will likely be regular

Either way you are going to throw sensors off? so you can't swap tires around on the RS3, even though the wheels can be

[APEXWheels]

sorry, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but its a bit relevant and a bit of a noob question as I hardly call myself a tire expert - only know not to screw around with them!

with the set-up in the video,
Apex 18x9.5" wheels 265/35/18 new Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS 46.4lbs
Apex 18x8.5" wheels 245/40/18 New Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS 43.2lbs

That's pretty much a stretched set-up correct? When I went through tire calculators that will keep the circumference and so it won't throw off speed sensors and odometer, its probably the closest you are going to get.

However, if you tried going 'square', isn't that technically impossible without throwing off those speed sensors and odometer? Like if you put the rear on the front, suddenly things are going to be thrown off?


It had me thinking about my situation with a 18x8 wheel that I have been using for winter tires since my 2010 S4...14 yrs and counting, and was thinking of using that for my maybe, hopeful RS3 future.

OEM 19X8.5" wheels - this might have a tad bit of stretch?
OEM 19x8" wheels - this will likely be regular

Either way you are going to throw sensors off? so you can't swap tires around on the RS3, even though the wheels can be

I'm happy to chime in and provide some insight to hopefully answer those questions for you!

Further clarifying, as S3DUDE did have a typo and listed incorrect rear wheel specs in one of his replies on this thread. Our 8Y RS3-specific reverse staggered setup uses a 18x9.5" ET20 front and a 18x9" ET42 rear. We do offer a 18x8.5" ET43 VW/Audi 5x112/57.1 wheel but just not in our VS-5RS design for the RS3 chassis.

All of our VW/Audi tire size recommendations across the board are calculated to be within a 3% threshold of the OEM wheel/tires overall rolling diameters. This ensures you do not run into any rubbing issues due to an oversized tire, as well as avoiding any wheel speed related problems that can cause drivability issues with ABS/traction/stability control, as well as inaccuracies in your speedometer/odometer. Furthermore, for AWD vehicles, while we typically recommend running a square setup whenever possible there are certain cases like the 8Y RS3 where a staggered setup can make more sense. In those cases, we try to get as close to OEM or less than a 1% difference in overall rolling diameters between the front and rear tires to ensure the AWD/transfercase/diffs doesn't end up with any mechanical or computer-related issues.

For the 8Y RS3 reverse staggered setup specifically, the sizes we landed on were 265/35-18 front and 245/40-18 rear (which are practically identical in rolling diameter to the OEM 19" staggered sizing), or a wider option with 275/35-18 front and 255/35-18 rear tires.

More aggressive performance focused tires such as 200TW and R compounds typically run quite a bit wider in the shoulders/contact patch compared to a street summer tire or all season in the same size. Due to this, if you mounted them on the OEM 8Y RS3 wheels with narrower 9" front and 8" rear wheels, you would get quite a bit of sidewall bulge or flex, reducing overall performance, handling, and tire wear. With the wider 9.5" front and 9" rear wheels, you can better support those more aggressive performance/track tires in the OEM sizes, or even go up further in width to truly maximize the overall grip possible for this chassis.

Your 2010 Audi S4 uses a 5x112 bolt pattern just like the 8Y RS3 but it has a larger 66.6mm centerbore compared to the RS3's 57.1mm CB. That said, to even get them to fit, you will need to run centering rings to go from 66.6 down to 57.1. However, you will also have to take into account brake clearance and using larger 18-22mm front spacers if you plan to run a square setup on the 8Y RS3 with those wheels but if you run a tire within a 3% difference of the OEM sizes, the sensors will be fine.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

-Geirsen

[RS3TP]

The Apex look absolutely amazing on the car. Great fitment

[Jetdriver]

I'm happy to chime in and provide some insight to hopefully answer those questions for you!

Further clarifying, as S3DUDE did have a typo and listed incorrect rear wheel specs in one of his replies on this thread. Our 8Y RS3-specific reverse staggered setup uses a 18x9.5" ET20 front and a 18x9" ET42 rear. We do offer a 18x8.5" ET43 VW/Audi 5x112/57.1 wheel but just not in our VS-5RS design for the RS3 chassis.

All of our VW/Audi tire size recommendations across the board are calculated to be within a 3% threshold of the OEM wheel/tires overall rolling diameters. This ensures you do not run into any rubbing issues due to an oversized tire, as well as avoiding any wheel speed related problems that can cause drivability issues with ABS/traction/stability control, as well as inaccuracies in your speedometer/odometer. Furthermore, for AWD vehicles, while we typically recommend running a square setup whenever possible there are certain cases like the 8Y RS3 where a staggered setup can make more sense. In those cases, we try to get as close to OEM or less than a 1% difference in overall rolling diameters between the front and rear tires to ensure the AWD/transfercase/diffs doesn't end up with any mechanical or computer-related issues.

For the 8Y RS3 reverse staggered setup specifically, the sizes we landed on were 265/35-18 front and 245/40-18 rear (which are practically identical in rolling diameter to the OEM 19" staggered sizing), or a wider option with 275/35-18 front and 255/35-18 rear tires.

More aggressive performance focused tires such as 200TW and R compounds typically run quite a bit wider in the shoulders/contact patch compared to a street summer tire or all season in the same size. Due to this, if you mounted them on the OEM 8Y RS3 wheels with narrower 9" front and 8" rear wheels, you would get quite a bit of sidewall bulge or flex, reducing overall performance, handling, and tire wear. With the wider 9.5" front and 9" rear wheels, you can better support those more aggressive performance/track tires in the OEM sizes, or even go up further in width to truly maximize the overall grip possible for this chassis.

Your 2010 Audi S4 uses a 5x112 bolt pattern just like the 8Y RS3 but it has a larger 66.6mm centerbore compared to the RS3's 57.1mm CB. That said, to even get them to fit, you will need to run centering rings to go from 66.6 down to 57.1. However, you will also have to take into account brake clearance and using larger 18-22mm front spacers if you plan to run a square setup on the 8Y RS3 with those wheels but if you run a tire within a 3% difference of the OEM sizes, the sensors will be fine.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

-Geirsen

So at stock ride heights, no rubbing with a 275/255 set up? Was this tested with any lowering?

[APEXWheels]

So at stock ride heights, no rubbing with a 275/255 set up? Was this tested with any lowering?

We have tested the 275/35-18 and 255/35-18 setup on a couple of different examples with both stock and lowered/aftermarket suspension. Ultimately, it will depend on your specific tire compound/make/model but typically the 275/35-18 is going to be a direct fit up front on a stock or lightly lowered car when using street tires. In the rear, that should also be the same case but you might have some visual poke with stock camber out back, so much like S3DUDE did, certain tire/suspension combos might need a touch of rear camber over stock to avoid any poke or potential rubbing under full suspension compression.

-Geirsen

[RudyH]

sorry, I think I am still a bit confused with the terms you are using here.
staggered (front and rear tires are different sized) vs square (tires are equal in all four corners)

There is one post where S3Dude mentioned here: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/997461-Apex-forged-wheels-installed-Undiluted-true-feedback?p=15124467&viewfull=1#post15124467
265/265, so assuming 265/35-18 (perfect for front 25.3", but not rear 26.3" + 1.9%)

I am planning on going also with a mild suspension drop like S3Dude, hence why I thought this was a good place to read about it. (EMD or RacingLine, I have had on previous cars and enjoyed the drops and comfort)

If OEM is:
265/30-19
245/35-19

Wouldn't a proper square setup be this, so that you can rotate front and rears?
255/35-18 (front -1.2% on 18x8.5-10", rear +0.8% on 18x8.5-10"....I think 9-9.5" should be pretty square)

Or was the different size recommendations above because they are within the 3% tolerance?

[APEXWheels]

sorry, I think I am still a bit confused with the terms you are using here.
staggered (front and rear tires are different sized) vs square (tires are equal in all four corners)

There is one post where S3Dude mentioned here: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/997461-Apex-forged-wheels-installed-Undiluted-true-feedback?p=15124467&viewfull=1#post15124467
265/265, so assuming 265/35-18 (perfect for front 25.3", but not rear 26.3" + 1.9%)

I am planning on going also with a mild suspension drop like S3Dude, hence why I thought this was a good place to read about it. (EMD or RacingLine, I have had on previous cars and enjoyed the drops and comfort)

If OEM is:
265/30-19
245/35-19

Wouldn't a proper square setup be this, so that you can rotate front and rears?
255/35-18 (front -1.2% on 18x8.5-10", rear +0.8% on 18x8.5-10"....I think 9-9.5" should be pretty square)

Or was the different size recommendations above because they are within the 3% tolerance?

That is correct. Staggered has different wheel/tire sizing front and rear, while square uses the same size wheels/tires at all four corners.

S3DUDE's setup he posted about is a reverse staggered fitment with a 18x9.5" ET20 front and 18x9" ET42 rear using a 265/35-18 front and 245/40-18 rear tire. 265/35-18 square can technically work on these cars but that setup is typically only recommended for a more dedicated track application, as to have proper sidewall support for a 265/35-18 tire, our 18x9.5" ET41 SM-10RS would be the only ideal option to run at all four corners. That setup would require 20mm front spacers and quite a bit of additional rear negative camber to fit without rubbing.

Alternatively, a 18x9" ET42 square setup with 255/35-18 tires at all four corners is much easier to fit due to the limited rear clearances on these cars. Typically, with 20mm front spacers, that setup will not have any rubbing issues when using street tires on a stock or mildly lowered car with OEM alignment specs.

For AWD cars that use a staggered setup from the factory, you just cant go any higher than 1% in rolling diameter difference between front and rear compared to the stock sizes. However, you can go lower than that 1% (square setup being the same sizing front and rear), without any issues.

-Geirsen

[S3DUDE]

sorry, I think I am still a bit confused with the terms you are using here.
staggered (front and rear tires are different sized) vs square (tires are equal in all four corners)

There is one post where S3Dude mentioned here: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/997461-Apex-forged-wheels-installed-Undiluted-true-feedback?p=15124467&viewfull=1#post15124467
265/265, so assuming 265/35-18 (perfect for front 25.3", but not rear 26.3" + 1.9%)

I am planning on going also with a mild suspension drop like S3Dude, hence why I thought this was a good place to read about it. (EMD or RacingLine, I have had on previous cars and enjoyed the drops and comfort)

If OEM is:
265/30-19
245/35-19

Wouldn't a proper square setup be this, so that you can rotate front and rears?
255/35-18 (front -1.2% on 18x8.5-10", rear +0.8% on 18x8.5-10"....I think 9-9.5" should be pretty square)

Or was the different size recommendations above because they are within the 3% tolerance?

I hope that I can clarify a little bit. My drop on my 8Y Turbo blue on KW V3 and 18" is more of a 1" 1/3", I verified this with my otherwise other RS3 8Y kyalami on bone stock wheels/tires and suspension. Each suspension is going to give you a different feel and what I mean with this is I don't know how much a set of springs will compress compare to coilovers. My intent with this car was to have a true daily and track car and not just a daily and spirited sports car.

I am saying this because on a regular street you can't go nuts on the turns on regular all season tires but at the track you can get serious on tight turns and push the limits on sticky tires and for that I planned on the rear sway bars, the sticky tires and the KW V3 with the top and bottom adjustments. I knew that the tires would have to "tuck in" inside the wheel wheel, I will never built a car that rubs tires on the inner wheel well, is not my style. When I picked this set-up I did a lot of research but also I would say that a lot of people just buy suspension for the looks and a bit for performance and that is perfectly fine but when you are at the road course and you are pushing the limits on the car (3 wheels) heavy turns you don't want any rubbing (ideally).

Another thing that I need to mention and I think Geirsen also mentioned is the characteristics of each tire. Believe it or not some tires are wider than others by a significant margin, look a guy on YouTube named VAG performance, he shows various tires width and compares them and also test them on his RS3. I personally wouldn't go past 255 in the back (rear) next time around, that is my absolute limit but I will try them next time along with 275's in the fronts. I opted for the reverse staggered this time because I was convinced on the 8Y platform that they did it right this time, much wider hardware (fenders, maybe longer axles?, adjusted hubs) and the rear "live" diff that makes the car dance if you push it. The downside of this set-up is obviously the lack of ability to rotate but that is the price to pay.

You could go square set-up and be happy, this car is phenomenal also with the square set-up but I personally think that the wider tire combo(front) and a little bit of rear tail happy with "skinnier" tires (rear) and that rear live rear diff is the right spot. At the end of the day is all about how you are going to use your car, I had to do the rear negative camber because my rear 245 were touching at low speeds without even turning. I also removed the plastic black tabs which were positively rubbing. My car came with a 1.7 degree factory rear camber so I went 2.4 driver rear and 2.5 passenger rear and it solved the issue and you can go 3 degrees if need to. Are you intending on participating on a road course? or autocross? If you ended up dropping the car you will need an alignment regardless.

Look at this picture and look how sank in is the driver side rear tire/wheel. You come from a 28-30 MPH very tight corner. The tire is completely buried. You can't do that without rubbing unless you remove the plastic tabs and mess with the rear camber a bit and remember, I am on the hardest set-up on the neuspeed rear sway bar too. [drool] I am attaching the before and after alignment sheet

[Jetdriver]

I hope that I can clarify a little bit. My drop on my 8Y Turbo blue on KW V3 and 18" is more of a 1" 1/3", I verified this with my otherwise other RS3 8Y kyalami on bone stock wheels/tires and suspension. Each suspension is going to give you a different feel and what I mean with this is I don't know how much a set of springs will compress compare to coilovers. My intent with this car waste have a true daily and track car and not just a daily and spirited sports car. I am saying this because on a regular street you can't go nut on the turns on regular all season tires but at the track you can get serious on tight turns and push the limits on sticky tires and for that I planned on the rear sway bars, the sticky tires and the KW V3 with the top and bottom adjustments. I knew that the tires would have to "tuck in" inside the wheel wheel, I will never built a car that rubs tires on the inner wheel well, is not my style. When I picked this set-up I did a lot of research but also I would say that a lot of people just buy suspension for the looks and a bit for performance and that is perfectly fine but when you are at the road course and you are pushing the limits on the car (3 wheels) heavy turns you don't want any rubbing (ideally).

Another thing that I need to mention and I think Geirsen also mentioned is the characteristics of each tire. some tires are believe it or not wider than others by a significant margin, look a guy on YouTube named VAG performance, he shows various tires width and compares them and also test them on his RS3. I personally wouldn't go past 255 in the back (rear) next time around, that is my absolute limit but I will try them next time along with 275's in the fronts. I opted for the reverse staggered this time because I was convinced on the 8Y platform that they did it right this time, much wider hardware (fenders, maybe longer axles?, adjusted hubs) and the rear "live" diff that makes the car dance if you push it. The downside of this set-up is obviously the lack of ability to rotate but that is the price to pay.

You could go square set-up and be happy, this car is phenomenal also with the square set-up but I personally think that the wider tire combo(front) and a little bit of rear tail happy with "skinnier" tires (rear) and that rear live rear diff is the right spot. At the end of the day is all about how you are going to use your car, I had to do the rear negative camber because my rear 245 were touching at low speeds without even turning. I also removed the plastic black tabs which were positively rubbing. My car came with a 1.7 degree factory rear camber so I went 2.4 driver rear and 2.5 passenger rear and it solved the issue and you can go 3 degrees if need to. Are you intending on participating on a road course? or autocross? If you ended up dropping the car you will need an alignment regardless.

Look at this picture and look how sank in is the driver side rear tire/wheel. You come from a 28-30 MPH very tight corner. The tire is completely buried. You can't do that without rubbing unless you remove the plastic tabs and mess with the rear camber a bit and remember, I am on the hardest set-up on the neuspeed rear sway bar too. [drool]

1-1/3" is a pretty significant drop. This car is low as it is, or at least it is to me. I don't have any plans on lowering mine. No tracking for me so it'd mostly be for aesthetics and I'm just not willing to deal with the negatives of lowering springs just for looks. We talked about this before, but after getting a bunch of free powder coat swatches sent to be from Prismatic, I don't think any powder coater is going to guarantee me that coating the stockers will come out the way I want them to. Also, I do like the idea of an 18" wheel over a 19" and having a little more rubber between my wheel and these wonderful NJ roads that are full of pot holes. I'm running stockers with a 10mm spacer front and rear. No rubbing. I think 275 up front and 255 would look pretty sweet.

[RudyH]

Thanks everyone, I think S3Dude the info was useful....I had some EMD springs and was transitioning from S4 to Golf R (as mentioned by Geirsen via spacer due to bore), I would rub or have some miserable noises. If there is anything from modifying cars I have learned:

'Tires are the most important part of the car!'

So giving it a bit more attention. Screwing that up, really kills anything else you might do.

Thanks too Giersen for clarifying, the square set-up is mostly for my winter setup where narrow is better, and I am not too worried about pushing the rubber to its limits. The reverse staggered info /w the 18" will be for the summer / track time - so truly appreciate the info in this thread! Unfortunately my current winter wheels are 18x8...so those will likely need to be the first wheels to replace with something I don't mind taking to get repaired from potholes...before the summer / track set-up is bought.

[compprep]

I'm on a Mustang forum and anyone there who has purchased/used Apex wheel really like them too!!