Cerwin Vega Spare Tire Subwoofer

[iampraneel]

I’ve been getting some questions on FB and the forums on what is needed to do a Cerwin Vega Spare Tire Subwoofer install. Below is most of everything you’ll need to do the install including the Powered LOC which is only needed if you have the B&O Sound System.

You need the Powered LOC because not all amps will work on a B&O system. If the amp can’t see 40v on the speaker input, your B&O amp will cut out because it will short to ground after a some of start cycles. This is why I’m recommending the Powered LOC below. I’m recommending the AudioControl LC2i because this Powered LOC is a direct plug and play to my Harness I listed below.

Here are the items you will need.

-Cerwin Vega Spare Tire Sub(VPSTX12 Slim Model) - https://amzn.to/3VLtBy0
OR
-Diamond Audio DASTX12 - https://amzn.to/41YFxAd
-24” with Block Connector Plug and Play Harness - https://tinyurl.com/4vtawdt5
-Kicker PK8 8 Gauge OFC Power Kit - https://amzn.to/3jUYq5g

In addition to the above, the below is needed if you have the B&O Sound System.

-AudioControl LC2i Pro - https://amzn.to/3WDS8Gz
-Inline Fuse Holder - https://amzn.to/3OIichv
-2 Amp Fuses - https://amzn.to/3qf3OU5
-Wire Tap - https://amzn.to/3Xtzh00 Don’t order this if your buy my harness. I send you 1
-16 gauge power and ground wire for LC2i - https://amzn.to/437jqap
Assorted Connectors - https://amzn.to/41Pzez3
-RCA Cable - https://amzn.to/2XbO7Lp

Below are a couple of pictures you can use as reference points for the power and ground wire connection. This install is pretty straightforward. The battery and ground are the hardest connections to make and even then it’s not very difficult. You don’t need the remote wire if you have a Non B&O Sound System and are using speaker level inputs.

-Positive connection to battery. You will just undo that torx screw to secure the kicker power cable. Make this connection after you’ve build your power wire to length with the fuse block inline and the fuse not attached. Inserting the fuse will be the last step of this project.
292593

The ground can attach here.
292594

The AudioControl LC2i Powered LOC does require a power source. You need an inline 2 Amp Fuse. Above I’ve listed an inline fuse to use. You can connect this directly to the battery or tie into the power connection you made to the sub. In both cases, use the inline fuse off of the power source. Route the ground wire to the same source as the sub.

AudioControl LC2i Powered LOC doesn’t require a remote turn on wire as your can use signal sensing(which I don’t recommend). To run a remote turn on here is the process. You will need to tap into the 12v plug on the right side cubby. This is really simple. All you’ll need to do is pull the cubby out and disconnect the connector from plug. Go about 10 inches back from the connector and peel away the tape. Find the white or yellow wire to tap into. I’ve listed the wire tap you’ll need above. If you get one of my harnesses, I include a wire tap. The AudioControl LC2i Powered LOC has a Remote In and Remote Out. The the Remote In accepts the wire coming from the cubby and Remote Out goes to the Subwoofer.

293198

Any question or if you need a harness feel free to email me @ [email protected].

[4TBBUCS]

Nice job 👍🏼. Need to stop dragging ass and get mine installed…

Edit: the non-slim variant will also fit if you shave off 1/4” of the mounting bolt. If not, your hatch floor will not sit flush.

[4TBBUCS]

Question, why is the KeyLoc required again? Kinda confused on this. Thought it would only be required if using an aftermarket amp….? Let me know and thanks.

Edit: Think I get it now. The 40v line reference, may or may not be “seen” w/o using the KeyLoc?

This is on a B&O system.

[iampraneel]

Question, why is the KeyLoc required again? Kinda confused on this. Thought it would only be required if using an aftermarket amp….? Let me know and thanks.

Edit: Think I get it now. The 40v line reference, may or may not be “seen” w/o using the KeyLoc?

This is on a B&O system.


I looked at the specs of the CV Input. High Level is 0.9V-12V. That’s not enough to support the B&O amp from cutting out after some start cycles.

[Fatboy1904]

Where did you connect the Power and turn on for the KEYLOC ? I assume it needs both ?

[CloseEncounters]

Ah ha...so this is why my trunk mounted Kicker Powered Sub becomes Inop after a few start cycles... The lack of a LOC unit which is necessary as I'm running the B&O system? I've been trying to figure this out for months with both Crutchfield and Kicker. Thanks for the post my friend.

[iampraneel]

Where did you connect the Power and turn on for the KEYLOC ? I assume it needs both ?

Great question. I’ve updated the post to give instructions on connecting the Kicker Powered LOC.

[iampraneel]

Slim model looks to be back in stock.

-Cerwin Vega Spare Tire Sub(VPSTX12 Slim Model) https://amzn.to/3VLtBy0

[anomadtoo]

In your FB post you mention this is the process for the B9. Would it be the same for the B8.5? Thanks

[iampraneel]

In your FB post you mention this is the process for the B9. Would it be the same for the B8.5? Thanks

I don’t have a B8.5 as an example to compare with but from what I’ve read, they don’t need the powered loc. Also, to my knowledge there isn’t a plug and play harness.

[anomadtoo]

Ok thanks!

[ghall]

This is a great post, thank you!!!!

[iampraneel]

I was just advised by someone who bought my harness the AudioControl LC2i is a direct plug and play to my harness. You will just need to align the + and - wires or I can do that for you if you advise you are using the AudioControl LC2i.

[Nexus1155]

Without wiring to 12v plug in rear the cerwin turns off and on at random. When wired to 12v remote it works almost flawlessly. Hiccup once in a blue moon. No need for a line converter. Though even after tweaking I wish it had a little extra bump

[Niko702]

Without wiring to 12v plug in rear the cerwin turns off and on at random. When wired to 12v remote it works almost flawlessly. Hiccup once in a blue moon. No need for a line converter. Though even after tweaking I wish it had a little extra bumpDoesn't it have a built in line converter? Is it worth the money?

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[iampraneel]

Without wiring to 12v plug in rear the cerwin turns off and on at random. When wired to 12v remote it works almost flawlessly. Hiccup once in a blue moon. No need for a line converter. Though even after tweaking I wish it had a little extra bump

Does your Q/SQ have the B&O sound system?

[Nexus1155]

It does have it built in, but it's ass. There's not enough going through it to activate it most of the time, which may require the loc, but you can just hit it to the back right plug and add an inline fuse. And yes b&o

[Spiff69]

I installed this sub and am really happy with it, I used one of Praneel’s cables and it worked out great. Just wanted to chime in and give a shout out.

[4TBBUCS]

I installed this sub and am really happy with it, I used one of Praneel’s cables and it worked out great. Just wanted to chime in and give a shout out.

You have the B&O system? If so, mind telling us how you wired it all up? Safe to assume you followed Praneel’s instructions? Thanks.

[iampraneel]

All DM’s replied to. If I missed you, please email or text me.


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[Vrsc]

A super special thank you to Praneel for not only his harness but his professionalism and customer service. He goes above and beyond and makes installing a sub/amp in our Audis super easy. I went with the higher tiered Diamond Audio dastx12 powered Sub (made by cervin vega). Speaking with Cervin Vega R&D Techs, they recommend this sub because the amp is cleaner and more powerful. I can tell you.. I have plenty of boom from this sub.. very happy and satisfied.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230526/a9fd7f52a39d7f477be0a3a878f076de.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230526/000850124b5c3466f7cbd32856d626f1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230526/71866ff8d2a5148b5e49298a29ddc570.jpg

[Local]

A super special thank you to Praneel for not only his harness but his professionalism and customer service. He goes above and beyond and makes installing a sub/amp in our Audis super easy. I went with the higher tiered Diamond Audio dastx12 powered Sub (made by cervin vega). Speaking with Cervin Vega R&D Techs, they recommend this sub because the amp is cleaner and more powerful. I can tell you.. I have plenty of boom from this sub.. very happy and satisfied.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230526/a9fd7f52a39d7f477be0a3a878f076de.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230526/000850124b5c3466f7cbd32856d626f1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230526/71866ff8d2a5148b5e49298a29ddc570.jpg

Do you have a link to this sub?

does it sit flat in our trunk?

I'm def about to do this install.

Edited to add: I found all this, got an amazon cart started - just ordered Praneel's kit - very excited to add some bass to my car.

[twopointohtee]

This looks awesome. Will def be looking to do this soon!


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[Local]

I just ordered everything on Praneel's list - including the upgrade to the diamond audio woofer / amp combo.

Including Praneel's little connector, some extras, some dynamatt, and some shipping charges it came out to just under $900.

Even though you can supposedly turn off the sub woofer check in obdeleven, I decided to order the audio controller just to be careful. Amazon has excellent return features.

Very much looking forward to this upgrade and the upgrade to Stage 1 ecu / tcu from 034. She should be like a whole new car for my Birthday road trip.

Has anyone put together a wiring diagram? I know this install is supposed to be super easy but its always helpful to have something you can print out.

I'll probably just lean on you guys through here.


edited to add: What is the resistance that the factory audio system expects to see from the woofer? 20ohm?

regards,

[FFM]

Good to hear, I’ll probably pull the trigger on the diamond audio unit then as well. Would prefer a cleaner sound and is worth the extra money to me.

[sandman00]

Yes good to hear I have been meaning on get this done I will reach out to him as well
Thanks for the update


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[Local]

Just spent the last 3 hours doing this install. 3 hours just to get everything wired and connected. Still have to clean everything, run the sub control to the steering column, tune everything, and finally put my trunk back together.

I think someone who is more experienced with stripping wires and connecting wires and terminals could def do it much faster and cleaner than I did.

That being said, considering my experience with the above is close to nil - that means just about anyone that can follow directions can do this install.

Some things I wasn't clear on:

1. You don't have to disconnect the battery to do this.
2. Make sure you remove the fuse from the kicker power wire - that should be the last thing that goes in - and you can just install it with the power connected and everything is fine - no worry about shocking yourself
3. You can route the power wire for the L2ci into the power connection for the sub. Then route both grounds to the same screw.
4. You only need one splice one wire - the 12v power wire for the L2ci so you can connect the fuse. A good wire connector is a must.
5. Get a GOOD crimper and stripper. I bought a shitty one and it made everything so much harder.

When I finally turned the car on I got the weirdest error - something like "the driveline is on please turn off the ignition"

I basically freaked out and called praneal - poor guy - it turned out that my car was just mad I was running the car with the doors open.

phew.

Regards,

[Local]

Listened to it for the first time today and wow... That is a lot of bass - both punch and rumble for a single 12.

At first I couldn't figure out why it was so loud, then I realized my sub level was turned all the way up in the head unit and I had the bass knob upside and what I thought was min was actually max.

Now it's running much nicer. I still need to figure a nicer way to run the bass control wire to the front - I want to mount it on the bottom of the steering column so the dial sticks out where a key would go on an older car.

Ill mess with it when I take the rear seat out to apply dynomat.

Any suggestions appreciated!

Regards,

[Gunnarrrrr]

Listened to it for the first time today and wow... That is a lot of bass - both punch and rumble for a single 12.

At first I couldn't figure out why it was so loud, then I realized my sub level was turned all the way up in the head unit and I had the bass knob upside and what I thought was min was actually max.

Now it's running much nicer. I still need to figure a nicer way to run the bass control wire to the front - I want to mount it on the bottom of the steering column so the dial sticks out where a key would go on an older car.

Ill mess with it when I take the rear seat out to apply dynomat.

Any suggestions appreciated!

Regards,

Keep subwoofer level below the middle and tune ur amp for that. Also, knock down the bass level to 1-2notches below middle. will cut out a lot of the shittiness coming from the front door woofers. Keep in mind sub output from the mmi goes all the way up to 150hz, but front door woofers hit all the way down to 80hz. So I would set your amp low pass to around 80-90 as a good crossover point to keep that droney 100hz stuff to a minimum with all the overlap. I keep my bass level in mmi at about -3 actually but I have much more sensitive drivers in my doors. a dab of silicone on the insides of the grilles on the front door woofers helps a lot with any rattle.

For control wire, I would recommend pulling the floor trim all the way back and running it through there. it’s pretty easy, i’ll get you the dealership service manual for removing those pieces. Here’s where mine routes to:

306410


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[Zombie5150]

Listened to it for the first time today and wow... That is a lot of bass - both punch and rumble for a single 12.

At first I couldn't figure out why it was so loud, then I realized my sub level was turned all the way up in the head unit and I had the bass knob upside and what I thought was min was actually max.

Now it's running much nicer. I still need to figure a nicer way to run the bass control wire to the front - I want to mount it on the bottom of the steering column so the dial sticks out where a key would go on an older car.

Ill mess with it when I take the rear seat out to apply dynomat.

Any suggestions appreciated!

Regards,

That's pretty much where I mounted mine. It was very easy running it up to the front. I did pull the dead pedal off to conceal the wire but that was the hardest part.

[Local]

Keep subwoofer level below the middle and tune ur amp for that. Also, knock down the bass level to 1-2notches below middle. will cut out a lot of the shittiness coming from the front door woofers. Keep in mind sub output from the mmi goes all the way up to 150hz, but front door woofers hit all the way down to 80hz. So I would set your amp low pass to around 80-90 as a good crossover point to keep that droney 100hz stuff to a minimum with all the overlap. I keep my bass level in mmi at about -3 actually but I have much more sensitive drivers in my doors. a dab of silicone on the insides of the grilles on the front door woofers helps a lot with any rattle.

For control wire, I would recommend pulling the floor trim all the way back and running it through there. it’s pretty easy, i’ll get you the dealership service manual for removing those pieces. Here’s where mine routes to:

306410


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That looks pretty good.

Ill def have to spend some time tuning my setup but that will save me a lot of time.

If you could share that dealer manual I would super appreciate it. I'm way more of a software than a hardware modification type guy. I'm already way outside my comfort zone with this but I'm astonished how well it's come out so far.

Thank you to everyone here!

[ccoop6]

Do you have a link to this sub?

does it sit flat in our trunk?

I'm def about to do this install.

Edited to add: I found all this, got an amazon cart started - just ordered Praneel's kit - very excited to add some bass to my car.

Can you share link? Sounds like it’s much better sub than factory. I’d like to be able to keep the bass down in the MMI and still have a substantial amount of bass from woofer. Thanks!


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[Local]

Can you share link? Sounds like it’s much better sub than factory. I’d like to be able to keep the bass down in the MMI and still have a substantial amount of bass from woofer. Thanks!




I have all the bass / sub stuff turned all the way down and still have SUBSTANTIAL bass. To the point I need to tune my amp down quite a bit.

Diamond Audio Spare tire 12'' woofer (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8LZJ9WL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)

If i was better at running, crimping, and routing wires this would have been so much easier.

As it was it only took me about 3 hours to get everything wired up and running.

I'll probably take another whack at things to clean up my install and run my bass control wire - I def need to save a few youtube videos on amp tuning and download some test tunes - but the lion share is done and I really like the outcome.



regards.

[ccoop6]

I have all the bass / sub stuff turned all the way down and still have SUBSTANTIAL bass. To the point I need to tune my amp down quite a bit.

Diamond Audio Spare tire 12'' woofer (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8LZJ9WL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)

If i was better at running, crimping, and routing wires this would have been so much easier.

As it was it only took me about 3 hours to get everything wired up and running.

I'll probably take another whack at things to clean up my install and run my bass control wire - I def need to save a few youtube videos on amp tuning and download some test tunes - but the lion share is done and I really like the outcome.



regards.

Thanks!


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[NickSQ5]

Can anyone confirm if the Diamond Audio variant sits flush or does it pop up the cover?

[Local]

Can anyone confirm if the Diamond Audio variant sits flush or does it pop up the cover?

sits flush.

the biggest issue I have with "flush ness" is the power wire coming off the battery. You have to remove or cut a lot of the plastic protection around the side.

regards,

[NickSQ5]

sits flush.

the biggest issue I have with "flush ness" is the power wire coming off the battery. You have to remove or cut a lot of the plastic protection around the side.

regards,

Ah, thank you for the response!

[NickSQ5]

Finally got around to doing this install and everything worked out great! Shout out to iampraneel for the write up and shipping out the harness so quickly! Now I got some extra "boom" !

[Local]

Finally got around to doing this install and everything worked out great! Shout out to iampraneel for the write up and shipping out the harness so quickly! Now I got some extra "boom" !

how did you tune the L2ci? which bass nob are you using? the one from the diamond woofer or the one from the l2ci?

did you end up tapping the 12v? I thought that would be hard but turned out to be super easy with the wire tap praneal sent. I would pay him just for that wire tap, lol, certainly can't find that ****** at home depot.

[NickSQ5]

how did you tune the L2ci? which bass nob are you using? the one from the diamond woofer or the one from the l2ci?

did you end up tapping the 12v? I thought that would be hard but turned out to be super easy with the wire tap praneal sent. I would pay him just for that wire tap, lol, certainly can't find that ****** at home depot.

Ordered the harness from praneal which worked great! I don't have the B&O system so no bass knobs or L2ci, just adjusted settings on the actual woofer and in MMI.

[B_Boy]

Just curious, why Cerwin Vega vs similar system such as JBL BassPro Hub? JBL version is 200 watts RMS vs 150 for CV...

[Local]

I went with the diamond audio. I think it's more about the type than the individual unit.

[jcoleman_11]

Just curious, why Cerwin Vega vs similar system such as JBL BassPro Hub? JBL version is 200 watts RMS vs 150 for CV...

Fitment. The JBL is too tall.

Cerwin Vega and Diamond audio are the only ones, as far as I’m aware, that make a shallow version that fits.


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[troystg]

I'm visiting in L.A. and for the fun of it yesterday I wrote Diamond Audio and asked if I could pickup the shallow spar tire sub. To my surprise they said sure and put me in contact with Gary to arrange payment and pickup. This afternoon I rode to downtown L.A. ( the gritty area) and picked it up. I can't wait to install it!

Not saying he can do the same for shipped units, but he did give me a cut on the list price.

If you need one write him and inquire before you go to Amazon...

[email protected]

[Local]

while youre there hitup praneal for the connector wire. It really makes everything so much easier.


Just wanted to edit to add:

To anyone thinking of doing this mod to your B&O sound system - this has been my second favorite mod (behind the tune) that I have done. It really makes the whole sound system SO MUCH better.

Plus, its so easy that someone like me (who has zero electrical knowledge) can do on their own.

The only issues I had was running the bass control knob (and eventually that was accomplished) - and - if you run the sub at a "loud" volume on a SUPER hot day and have a bunch of stuff in your trunk - eventually it will over heat.

All I had to do was remove the large amount of stuff from my trunk to my back seat to get some air flow and then it didn't happen again - and to the subs credit it was like 100+ out there that day.

So if you are on the fence, the whole set of parts costs under 1,000 bucks (including the dyno mat i purchased that I kinda went crazy with, behind the license plates, under the trunk, under the rear seat, etc).

I've been thinking about doing the door speakers and tweeters but honestly the system sounds so good there doesn't seem to be a point.

regards,

[iampraneel]

Updated links.

[FFM]

Has anyone opted for the passive sub? It has a much higher RMS handling, which should yield even more thump, while staying pretty clean. Also have to assume whatever amplifier you choose is going to be much higher quality than diamonds.

[cmil527]

are these subs powered or do you need a separate amp?

[A4Maine-iac]

They are powered. They replace the spare tire Sub.

[FFM]

are these subs powered or do you need a separate amp?

You have either option, which is why I asked about the passive. The sub is rated for much higher RMS compared to the powered unit. Im not an expert but I’d have to imagine the passive with a quality amp will produce more punch and cleaner quality.

[jc.gonzalezcolo]

Has anyone opted for the passive sub? It has a much higher RMS handling, which should yield even more thump, while staying pretty clean. Also have to assume whatever amplifier you choose is going to be much higher quality than diamonds.

I did. I went with Kicker Key 500. Sounds awesome!

[FFM]

And the wild thing is you could have gone with the CXA800 since the passive DMD is 4ohm DVC which would double your RMS lol. I’m super tempted to push that passive to see how much that little fella can pound.

[CloseEncounters]

I went with the Diamond Audio DASTX12 spare tire sub and the Audio Control LC2i Pro Line Output Controller (required if you've got the B&O system). This was after upgrading all four doors and the rear deck speakers along with the dash midrange speakers and still not being very pleased with the sound. The Bass is now amazing and exactly what I've always wanted it...the ability to adjust Bass while driving was also a real bonus. The speakers, Subs and LCU all ran about $1k. I installed everything myself, so I had no concerns on the material cost after hearing how the system sounded afterwards.

[Gunnarrrrr]

I went with the Diamond Audio DASTX12 spare tire sub and the Audio Control LC2i Pro Line Output Controller (required if you've got the B&O system). This was after upgrading all four doors and the rear deck speakers along with the dash midrange speakers and still not being very pleased with the sound. The Bass is now amazing and exactly what I've always wanted it...the ability to adjust Bass while driving was also a real bonus. The speakers, Subs and LCU all ran about $1k. I installed everything myself, so I had no concerns on the material cost after hearing how the system sounded afterwards.

same. except kicker dvc 12” and a key500 amp. I replaced all 19 speakers in my car. also ran about $1k (the sub and amp being most of the cost). Sounds amazing. stock b&o is unlistenable once you’ve heard this.


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[Pedal_power]

Found a great deal on the Diamond Audio DASTX12 courtesy of Facebook Marketplace and now I am just waiting on Praneel's wiring harness. Can't wait to add some thump to the family wagon! Thanks to everyone who contributed to this helpful thread.

[Local]

Found a great deal on the Diamond Audio DASTX12 courtesy of Facebook Marketplace and now I am just waiting on Praneel's wiring harness. Can't wait to add some thump to the family wagon! Thanks to everyone who contributed to this helpful thread.

Like everyone else said, you are gonna love it!

Nothing sounds better.

[Pedal_power]

Completed the preliminary installation last night - despite the -2C temperatures - and the system bumps pretty good.

It’s amazing how much better the front end sounds when unburdened by being asked the produce significant bass. In MMI, I was able to turn the bass and sub settings to neutral, set the sub low pass to ~80Hz, and tweaked the gains on the LC2i as per the manual.

The result is a more open and cohesive sound stage (even with the stock speakers) and the bass now sounds low, controlled, and loud when you want it. The mushiness and boominess of the stock B&O sub is just a memory.

I still have to apply sound deadening and clean up my ugly wiring, but I’ll wait for warm weather before digging in again.

Thanks Praneel for the wiring harness and to those who contributed to the thread. Awesome stuff!

[Local]

Glad you are loving it!

Did you use the bass knob from the l2ci or from the subwoofer? I ended up using the knob from the L2ci and I ran it to the steering column.

I keep thinking about upgrading the door speakers - but after doing all the dynomat (under the rear seat, around the subwoofer unit, and most importantly on the back of my rear license plate) my system actually sounds pretty excellent.

Maybe when I have some extra time and money - but for now the extra rewards just don't seem worth it.

This is coming from a guy that spent close to 10k on his audio system in his WRX. JL, pheonix gold, boston acoustics, everywhere.

I personally think this style subwoofer upgrade is the best bang for you buck upgrade you can do on the SQ5 - other than a stage 1 ECU flash.

[Pedal_power]

Funny you bring up the bass knob - I had the same debate. I wound up using the bass controller from the subwoofer.

I can’t imagine it would matter which one was used, but perhaps someone more knowledgeable will chime in if I’m wrong.

Regardless, it works great. With the adjuster all the way left, the sub is almost off. When it is cranked up to 11, there is a TON of bass. Too much to blend cleanly…but it’s fun.

The sub doesn’t go super deep, but sounds pretty darned punchy for what it is. Huge value for the dollar.

Agreed that the stock speakers sound decent enough that there is no more money that needs to be spent.

Did you wind up tweaking the Accubass settings on the LC2i? I haven’t played with that yet.

The tailgate and licence plate are vibrating significantly at this point, but I’ll wait for warmer weather to button down the wiring and add Dynamat.

[jc.gonzalezcolo]

Glad you are loving it!

Did you use the bass knob from the l2ci or from the subwoofer? I ended up using the knob from the L2ci and I ran it to the steering column.

I keep thinking about upgrading the door speakers - but after doing all the dynomat (under the rear seat, around the subwoofer unit, and most importantly on the back of my rear license plate) my system actually sounds pretty excellent.

Maybe when I have some extra time and money - but for now the extra rewards just don't seem worth it.

This is coming from a guy that spent close to 10k on his audio system in his WRX. JL, pheonix gold, boston acoustics, everywhere.

I personally think this style subwoofer upgrade is the best bang for you buck upgrade you can do on the SQ5 - other than a stage 1 ECU flash.

Try these..you will not regret it. It truly brings the highs to a whome new level

https://www.parts-express.com/faitalpro-4fe32-4-neodymium-professional-full-range-woofer-8-ohm--294-1121

[Gunnarrrrr]

Try these..you will not regret it. It truly brings the highs to a whome new level

https://www.parts-express.com/faitalpro-4fe32-4-neodymium-professional-full-range-woofer-8-ohm--294-1121

for me, the biggest improvement to the highs was more efficient tweeters. absolute game changer. although I did have to make a ton of adapters to make them plug&play. nothing a little 3D printing and aliexpress connectors couldn’t fix

https://i.ibb.co/v3Wdq40/IMG-7865.jpg (https://ibb.co/v3Wdq40) https://i.ibb.co/s9nqKCV/IMG-7858.jpg (https://ibb.co/s9nqKCV) https://i.ibb.co/kHmSxVP/IMG-7846.jpg (https://ibb.co/kHmSxVP) https://i.ibb.co/XWm288N/Rendered-Image.jpg (https://ibb.co/XWm288N) https://i.ibb.co/5kT12Dx/IMG-7860.jpg (https://ibb.co/5kT12Dx) https://i.ibb.co/W62cNbw/Rendered-Image.jpg (https://ibb.co/W62cNbw)

those faitalpros are nice, I ended up doing peerless gbs’s for my doors and center and d pillars, required some printed spacers so they wouldn’t contact the grille. make sure you do the center to match the doors, it’ll sound all weird if you don’t. but yeah, doing the midranges is def the most noticeable upgrade you could do. the upper mids sound amazing and clear now and im sure yours are even better.

https://i.ibb.co/qsTbKV1/IMG-7810.jpg (https://ibb.co/qsTbKV1) https://i.ibb.co/m5GvJxD/IMG-7811.jpg (https://ibb.co/m5GvJxD) https://i.ibb.co/CvQCS26/IMG-7816.jpg (https://ibb.co/CvQCS26) https://i.ibb.co/g7Db5cQ/IMG-7912.jpg (https://ibb.co/g7Db5cQ)


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[jc.gonzalezcolo]

for me, the biggest improvement to the highs was more efficient tweeters. absolute game changer. although I did have to make a ton of adapters to make them plug&play. nothing a little 3D printing and aliexpress connectors couldn’t fix

https://i.ibb.co/v3Wdq40/IMG-7865.jpg (https://ibb.co/v3Wdq40) https://i.ibb.co/s9nqKCV/IMG-7858.jpg (https://ibb.co/s9nqKCV) https://i.ibb.co/kHmSxVP/IMG-7846.jpg (https://ibb.co/kHmSxVP) https://i.ibb.co/XWm288N/Rendered-Image.jpg (https://ibb.co/XWm288N) https://i.ibb.co/5kT12Dx/IMG-7860.jpg (https://ibb.co/5kT12Dx) https://i.ibb.co/W62cNbw/Rendered-Image.jpg (https://ibb.co/W62cNbw)

those faitalpros are nice, I ended up doing peerless gbs’s for my doors and center and d pillars, required some printed spacers so they wouldn’t contact the grille. make sure you do the center to match the doors, it’ll sound all weird if you don’t. but yeah, doing the midranges is def the most noticeable upgrade you could do. the upper mids sound amazing and clear now and im sure yours are even better.

https://i.ibb.co/qsTbKV1/IMG-7810.jpg (https://ibb.co/qsTbKV1) https://i.ibb.co/m5GvJxD/IMG-7811.jpg (https://ibb.co/m5GvJxD) https://i.ibb.co/CvQCS26/IMG-7816.jpg (https://ibb.co/CvQCS26) https://i.ibb.co/g7Db5cQ/IMG-7912.jpg (https://ibb.co/g7Db5cQ)


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Those are the same tweeters I got, but have not gotten the time to mess with mounting them. Any chance you got the file for those 3D printed mounts? Willing to buy if need be. It'll save me plenty of time! Those peerless are awesome. Had them on my S5.

[Local]

are you guys using an aftermarket amp for your speakers? or just running them off the factory amp?

I would probably do a crossover and 500 amp with as many channels as speakers if I was going to do the speakers.... unless it really wasn't needed?

[Gunnarrrrr]

are you guys using an aftermarket amp for your speakers? or just running them off the factory amp?

I would probably do a crossover and 500 amp with as many channels as speakers if I was going to do the speakers.... unless it really wasn't needed?

aftermarket amp isn't possible. Well, technically there's one solution out there to bypass the B&O, not really sure it works, I'm gonna just say its not possible. Tuning it with your own crossovers and by picking the right speakers for the sound you want is a lot easier. Also the B&O is plenty loud. I used a kicker key500 for the sub, that's it.


Those are the same tweeters I got, but have not gotten the time to mess with mounting them. Any chance you got the file for those 3D printed mounts? Willing to buy if need be. It'll save me plenty of time! Those peerless are awesome. Had them on my S5.

I'll send them over, just need to dig them up. I did this over a year ago. Just don't go selling them or anything lol

might need a tweak or two, the rear door tweeter adapters ended up fitting a little loose if I remember correctly, I think I just siliconed it though. Those little tabs I left on some of them also were meant to be folded over to secure the driver, I used my soldering iron on low temp and they're locked in.

[jc.gonzalezcolo]

I'll send them over, just need to dig them up. I did this over a year ago. Just don't go selling them or anything lol

might need a tweak or two, the rear door tweeter adapters ended up fitting a little loose if I remember correctly, I think I just siliconed it though. Those little tabs I left on some of them also were meant to be folded over to secure the driver, I used my soldering iron on low temp and they're locked in.[/QUOTE]

Awesome! Don't worry...I am not selling, but if sharing os OK...id definitely pay it forward. Thank you!!!

[jc.gonzalezcolo]

[/QUOTE]I'll send them over, just need to dig them up. I did this over a year ago. Just don't go selling them or anything lol

might need a tweak or two, the rear door tweeter adapters ended up fitting a little loose if I remember correctly, I think I just siliconed it though. Those little tabs I left on some of them also were meant to be folded over to secure the driver, I used my soldering iron on low temp and they're locked in.[/QUOTE]

Awesome! Don't worry...I am not selling, but if sharing os OK...id definitely pay it forward. Thank you!!!

[siren0001]

Hi, anyone care to show their B&O and Lc2i Pro settings? I tuned mine but could never get the maximize light nor the accbase to ight up....

[Spiff69]

All these subs are ported, right? I have the Cerwin Vega and it's a great improvement, but doesn't sound as tight as a sub in a sealed enclosure. There is no such thing for the spare tire well, right? Any comments on the Cerwin Vega vs. Diamond Audio?

[jcoleman_11]

Hi, anyone care to show their B&O and Lc2i Pro settings? I tuned mine but could never get the maximize light nor the accbase to ight up....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240523/c16e4f6eeefdc75017479519b019c5f3.jpg
Here’s what I have them set to.


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[A4Maine-iac]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240523/c16e4f6eeefdc75017479519b019c5f3.jpg
Here’s what I have them set to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Any chance you have a wider shot. Just want to see the wiring as well.

[jcoleman_11]

Any chance you have a wider shot. Just want to see the wiring as well.

I don't, sorry, but wiring is straight forward, the connectors are labeled.

[czechm8]

Great info!

[siren0001]

So I am using the 12v outlet as my remote but when my car start stops I hear a pop on the sub. Any idea?

[Gunnarrrrr]

that sir is the sound of your amp turning on and off


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[siren0001]

So it’s a bit strange, I hear base when the car auto Start stop is off, ie The engine is On standby. Then when it comes out of the auto start stop, and I push the gas I hear a pop.
So I’m not sure if the 12 V line I’m using stay on when the car is on. Any idea of another location for 12 V that is not affected by the Automatic start stop

[Gunnarrrrr]

So it’s a bit strange, I hear base when the car auto Start stop is off, ie The engine is On standby. Then when it comes out of the auto start stop, and I push the gas I hear a pop.
So I’m not sure if the 12 V line I’m using stay on when the car is on. Any idea of another location for 12 V that is not affected by the Automatic start stop

there’s a big fuse panel behind the removable left panel in the trunk, you’ll need to do some poking around with a multimeter. I use a kicker key500 amp that has DC offset detection to turn it on, so I don’t have this problem. When I previously used ignition power to turn on my amp, I had the same issue with auto start stop cutting my amp.


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[siren0001]

[QUOTE=jcoleman_11;15073709
Here’s what I have them set to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
Are you running a B&O or without B&O?

[siren0001]

there’s a big fuse panel behind the removable left panel in the trunk, you’ll need to do some poking around with a multimeter. I use a kicker key500 amp that has DC offset detection to turn it on, so I don’t have this problem. When I previously used ignition power to turn on my amp, I had the same issue with auto start stop cutting my amp.


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Let me take some look at the fuze panel, unless anyone know of one and can save me the time.

right now I turned it to sound GTO sound detect even though I got the B&O until I can find a better 12v some time this week.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Let me take some look at the fuze panel, unless anyone know of one and can save me the time.

right now I turned it to sound GTO sound detect even though I got the B&O until I can find a better 12v some time this week.

I have B&O

try C6. it should be empty, you’ll need a crimp terminal or to grab a repair wire with the correct terminal and pop it in, and add a fuse there. Then you’ll have a dedicated +12 switched. At least I think it’s switched, might need to confirm it with a multimeter. It’s what I used for my TPMS module. I could be totally wrong and you might need to poke around if that one turns out to not be switched, there’s plenty of empty fuse locations in that panel.


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[Local]

I've used the 12v connector in the trunk on the right side for years. never had a problem with start stop - though to be fair mine is always off by tune.

Its never made a popping noise or anything else though.

[siren0001]

I finally got a video

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mXAzsOadJS35aAK4J1v5jOc4BvOcpYUU/view?usp=sharing


ITs a little hard to hear but you you hear a boom/thump when the (A) auto start re-starts the car engine. I haven't been able to figure out where this is coming from.

I am using Audio Control LC2i Pro wit GTO auto sensing remote turn on

I use to have the remote wire to the 12v outlet but it still happened then, even with the remote turn on set to auto sensing it still happens when car does auto start/stop but not every time, so I am a bit stumped.

[FFM]

Sounds like the fix is to turn off that god awful feature with a tune 😜

[siren0001]

Sounds like the fix is to turn off that god awful feature with a tune 😜

totally would but I am leased lol

[Gunnarrrrr]

again you need to tap from somewhere else, no need to take a video you’ve made it clear that it’s your amp turning off and on lol

before i got an amp with dc offset, I had the same problem tapping from one of the other ignition switched fuses, fixed by moving to a different fuse. can’t remember which one, you’re just going to need to grab a fuse tap and do some trial and error. you’ll eventually find one that isn’t effected by auto start/stop

also auto start/stop can’t be disabled with software. there’s modules on aliexpress that mimic the auto start stop button presses to keep it permanently off, that’s the only way.


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[Hostile]

also auto start/stop can’t be disabled with software. there’s modules on aliexpress that mimic the auto start stop button presses to keep it permanently off, that’s the only way.


It can be disabled through OBDEleven/VCDS but the start/stop is tied to the HVAC controller and when you turn off the HVAC it turns the stop/start back on.

I ended up going with a kill harness from Amazon.

[Flint]

It can be disabled through OBDEleven/VCDS but the start/stop is tied to the HVAC controller and when you turn off the HVAC it turns the stop/start back on.

I ended up going with a kill harness from Amazon.

So if I code auto start/stop off with Carista, it will come back on if I use the “off” button for the HVAC system or is it tied to the AC on/off selection?


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[jcoleman_11]

So if I code auto start/stop off with Carista, it will come back on if I use the “off” button for the HVAC system or is it tied to the AC on/off selection?


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It’s tied to the AC. If you turn the AC off, auto start/stop function will start working again.

As long as AC is on, it will stay disabled.

I disabled it with Carista so I speak from direct experience.


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[Hostile]

So if I code auto start/stop off with Carista, it will come back on if I use the “off” button for the HVAC system or is it tied to the AC on/off selection?


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That is correct. Just buy a single from Amazon instead.

[Hostile]

It’s tied to the AC. If you turn the AC off, auto start/stop function will start working again.

As long as AC is on, it will stay disabled.

I disabled it with Carista so I speak from direct experience.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is the opposite of my experience when disabling it with OBDEleven.

Hitting the HVAC OFF button turned the start/stop back on.

No one would be doing that coding if you had to turn off the AC to also turn off the stop/start.

[jcoleman_11]

That is the opposite of my experience when disabling it with OBDEleven.

Hitting the HVAC OFF button turned the start/stop back on.

No one would be doing that coding if you had to turn off the AC to also turn off the stop/start.

I think you misunderstood what I wrote. We’re saying the same thing.


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[Hostile]

I think you misunderstood what I wrote. We’re saying the same thing.


That's what I get for reading too fast.

[siren0001]

Hi

I am trying to replace the Audio Control Lc2i with a Kicker Keyloc but got it somewhat to work better but wanted to make sure the subwoofer OEM positive and negative pin out to the keyloc was not crossed. IE brown wire coil 1 positive, brown white coil 1 negative etc.


Does any one know what the wiring colors mean on the OEM subwoofer cabling?

[iampraneel]

Hi

I am trying to replace the Audio Control Lc2i with a Kicker Keyloc but got it somewhat to work better but wanted to make sure the subwoofer OEM positive and negative pin out to the keyloc was not crossed. IE brown wire coil 1 positive, brown white coil 1 negative etc.


Does any one know what the wiring colors mean on the OEM subwoofer cabling?

Do you have one of my harnesses?

Plug and Play Aftermarket Subwoofer/Amp Harness

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=945999

[4TBBUCS]

So, I ended up ordering an LC2i (months ago), then the LC2i Pro smh. Forgot I had ordered the prior. Aside from form factor and easier access to "tuning" (Accubass, Threshold etc), are there any other advantages in going with the Pro for the install?

[czechm8]

I believe the Pro model will pass a signal down to 20Hz, whereas the non pro version only down to 30Hz.

[4TBBUCS]

Got it, thanks!

[4TBBUCS]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240523/c16e4f6eeefdc75017479519b019c5f3.jpg
Here’s what I have them set to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Good stuff! Question, did you actually tune for AccuBASS as per instructions or? Assuming you did, you did so due to experiencing Bass roll-off? If so, about how high (volume) did you start getting roll-off? Thanks!

[jcoleman_11]

Good stuff! Question, did you actually tune for AccuBASS as per instructions or? Assuming you did, you did so due to experiencing Bass roll-off? If so, about how high (volume) did you start getting roll-off? Thanks!

Yup, spent probably about 2 hours tuning it.
It changed so much from one song to another, so I’ve got the gain knob installed in the center console so I can adjust it when needed.
Bass starts rolling off at higher levels. There’s no number so it’s hard to say, but where the bar is about half way.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240712/a208eb961ee98706bced806af76a26fd.jpg


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[4TBBUCS]

Nice! Appreciate the info, thanks.

[Local]

Looks really good.

I think this is the best non performance mod for this vehicle.

just adding this little woofer turns the sound system into a different animal.

[Hayk]

Hi All,

I am interested in the DASTX12 setup for a B8.5 2017 SQ5 w/ B&O. Can someone outline which items I need to buy? I am having an car audio shop install it.

Thanks!
Hayk

[Gunnarrrrr]

Hi All,

I am interested in the DASTX12 setup for a B8.5 2017 SQ5 w/ B&O. Can someone outline which items I need to buy? I am having an car audio shop install it.

Thanks!
Hayk

wrong forum


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[davidj43]

Yup, spent probably about 2 hours tuning it.
It changed so much from one song to another, so I’ve got the gain knob installed in the center console so I can adjust it when needed.
Bass starts rolling off at higher levels. There’s no number so it’s hard to say, but where the bar is about half way.


That's a clean install of the ACR-1! I assume you had to pull the center console out? Any pro tips you can share?

Also, looking at your Lci settings, it's hard to tell which direction they are pointed. Are the accubass level, threshold, and bass level are all toward counterclockwise?

[jcoleman_11]

That's a clean install of the ACR-1! I assume you had to pull the center console out? Any pro tips you can share?

Also, looking at your Lci settings, it's hard to tell which direction they are pointed. Are the accubass level, threshold, and bass level are all toward counterclockwise?

Turn them all the way to minimum, so counter clockwise, and then turn them clockwise until they match the picture. There’s no way I did more than a 180° turn.

As for the knob install, I was too lazy to pull the entire center console out, so the wire can be seen going from under the rear seat to under the center console.
I did have to remove the whole shifter/controls portion.
Once that’s out, the button cover just pops out.

To make sure I drilled the hole in the perfect spot, I actually put nail polish on the tip of the bare knob, and slid it in the cover, so the nail polish leaves a spot exactly where the knob would poke through, and that’s where you drill.

The other hole for the LED I just eyeballed. I also had to bend it to fit the button, and also had to break a tab off the button to fit it.

I hope that helps!


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[4TBBUCS]

Shoutout to @ iampraneel! Appreciate the harness and help! Finally got around to finishing the install. Sounds damn good! Literally the only thing missing (subjective) in the BO system, was this upgrade. System sounds complete now, with plenty of bass for my liking. Install was pretty straightforward, only hiccup was, forgetting to install the remote…which is a must in order to get the sub to work. Knucklehead move on my part smh. Took longer to tune everything to my liking ( couple weeks of tweaking this and that) , than the actual install.

[A4Maine-iac]

Yes that harness was key! I went this route and was very happy. Yes is its about an 1" too thick but i have a cargo matt so you cant even tell. Just need to spend some time tuning it. Think ill have another do that for me. These old ears don't hear like thy used to.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIL0LW0?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K39JFFM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[RWLib3]

Just a quick note for anyone looking to do this...I used a Kicker 46KISLOAD2 ($40ish - high line in) using Praneel's harness, to a Kicker 46KISLOC ($15 - RCA out). Works great so far! Hasn't cut out once. Both units are very small, and fit nicely into the foam around the spare tire. I started with a Rockville 11" spare tire sub, as I don't want/need a ton of bass, but its more than enough for what I need. May upgrade to the CV at some point though...

[DC321]

Thanks for all the info and pictures in this thread. I have ordered everything including the harness and am looking to get this done this weekend. I think with the pics and info here I will be able to put this together.

[DC321]

I love this knob install.

[DC321]

OK, so I pussed out. I had an installer do it even with the premade harness. I was afraid to wire it to power.

He said I didn't need the LC2I Pro. It did not die out over the 20 minute drive home. I told him if it does I will be back.

Anyone else do it without the LC2I pro?

[FlakoRevoS4]

Has anyone used the main outputs out of the LC2 pro for another amp while using the bass connection as the input as we use it here for the bass upgrade?

[iampraneel]

OK, so I pussed out. I had an installer do it even with the premade harness. I was afraid to wire it to power.

He said I didn't need the LC2I Pro. It did not die out over the 20 minute drive home. I told him if it does I will be back.

Anyone else do it without the LC2I pro?

It typically works fine for a few start cycles then the bass cuts out.

[Landobourbon]

I am an electrical novice. I purchased everything on Praneel’s list. Does anyone have step by step instructions? What tools will I need?

[Local]

I am an electrical novice. I purchased everything on Praneel’s list. Does anyone have step by step instructions? What tools will I need?

I think I posted a step by step guide.

I'm 100000% more of an electrical novice. I thought when I stuck the fuse in on the power wire I was gonna die. I thought when I connected it I was going to die.

Somehow its still all good.

Just take your time. Nothing is that hard or is anything you can't do with a little time and a really really really good wire cutter / outside remover.

Don't be like me and use a lighter to burn off the rubber to make connections. I learned some really bad habits from watching my russian friends do home repair.

[4TBBUCS]

Well damn….looks like a new player in the spare tire subwoofer game has emerged. Hmmm, looks similar and specs are also similar to the CV. Buttttttt MORE POWAAAA LOL. May pick this up and swap out the CV. A bit more boom wouldn’t hurt!!! Should be a similar process and compatible with iampraneel harness. What say you iampraneel??


https://nvx.com/products/qbsta-900w-peak-300w-rms-11-quick-bass-spare-tire-amplified-subwoofer-system-with-remote-bass-level-control