8Y RS3 Brake Pads and Rotors Thread

[xeonoex]

Please let me know if new options are available and I will update.

FCP Euro part numbers:

Steel front rotor: 4M0 615 301 BJ
Steel front pads: 83A 698 151 B
Rear rotors: 5Q0 615 601 E
Rear pads: 8Y0 698 451 B

Brake pad options:

The front pads are shared with the B9 S5 and a few other Audi models. The rear pads are all new and have slight changes from the 8V. Pads that say they fit the 8V and 8Y will likely not fit the 8Y. The 8Y has a cutout on the ears of the pad with the spring.

From Endless:
Steel front pad shape (https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP293.pdf)
8V Steel rear pad shape (https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP251.pdf)

Front and rear
Carbotech sold by 529 Innovations (https://www.529innovations.com/529brakepads/p/a3-s3-rs3-brakepads)
EBC sold by EBC Brakes Direct (https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/audi/rs3/2.50-Petrol-Turbo-2021-/153904)
Girodisc search (https://girodisc.com/finder/?pfresults=true&make=Audi&model=RS3%20(8Y)&submodel=All&f_trim=All&f_axle=All)

Front:
iSWEEP sold by Neuspeed (https://neuspeed.com/collections/audi-rs3-8y-2-5l-tfsi-quattro/products/isweep-brake-pads-front-rs3-8y-rr1553)
Hawk HB865Z.620 (https://www.hawkperformance.com/pads/hb865z-620)
Porterfield AP1894 (https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap1894/)
Ferodo DS2500 (https://www.killerbrakes.com/product/front-ferodo-racing-ds2500-brake-pads-fcp4967h-audi-s4-rs4-b9-q7-4m-rs3-8y/)

Rear:
Porterfield AP2433 (https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap2433/)

Rotor options:

Front and rear:
Girodisc search (https://girodisc.com/finder/?pfresults=true&make=Audi&model=RS3%20(8Y)&submodel=All&f_trim=All&f_axle=All)

Front
034 Front rotors (https://www.034motorsport.com/2-piece-floating-front-brake-rotor-upgrade-kit-for-8y-audi-rs3.html)
FCP Euro part search (https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=4M0615301BJ)

Rear
034 upgrade kit (https://www.034motorsport.com/2-piece-floating-rear-brake-rotor-355mm-upgrade-for-mk8-gti-golf-r-and-audi-8y-s3-rs3.html)
FCPEuro part search (https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/Disc-Brake-Rotor/?keywords=5Q0%20615%20601%20E)

[Amirh87]

529 innovations:

https://www.529innovations.com/529brakepads/p/a3-s3-rs3-brakepads


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[Crowlski]

Anyone autocrossing with the steel brakes? If so how are they holding up?

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[elijahallen]

Make this sticky, thanks for starting this.

[okswerve16]

Anyone have the part #'s for those that have carbon ceramics front brakes? Are the 8y and 8v ceramic calipers/rotors/pads the same? As it seems like for steel fronts they are different than 8v vs 8y.

[xeonoex]

529 innovations:

https://www.529innovations.com/529brakepads/p/a3-s3-rs3-brakepads


Thanks! Added.



Anyone autocrossing with the steel brakes? If so how are they holding up?

I haven't done autocross, but I did take mine to the tracks and the brakes held up well through 8 ~20-25 minute sessions. I posted some pics showing the wear too.



Anyone have the part #'s for those that have carbon ceramics front brakes? Are the 8y and 8v ceramic calipers/rotors/pads the same? As it seems like for steel fronts they are different than 8v vs 8y.

FCP Euro can probably send you the part numbers if you give them your VIN. My guess is everything on the rear is the same, but the front is completely different.

[xeonoex]

Added EBC options. I went with Carbotech XP10s and will be installing them soon and testing them out.

[SVTunit]

Hawk HB865Z.620
https://www.hawkperformance.com/pads/hb865z-620

[Amirh87]

Hawk HB865Z.620
https://www.hawkperformance.com/pads/hb865z-620

Do you have a link for rears?


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[SVTunit]

Do you have a link for rears?

Sorry, no.

[xeonoex]

Hawk HB865Z.620
https://www.hawkperformance.com/pads/hb865z-620

Thanks, added.

Also, I tried my Carbotech XP10s out at the track yesterday. They held up really well. Pretty much no noticeable wear after 6 track sessions.
They didn't even squeak when I put them on at first. They do squeak after I did the track day though.

[GTItoS4]

8Y stock pads are easily the dustiest pads I've ever owned. And I thought my S4 pads were terribly dusty. This thing needs a weekly wash and wheel detail.

Interested in a cleaner street pad option.

[xeonoex]

Carbotech's track pads are way less dusty than any OEM or Hawk pad I have used. I'm on the track compound, so I would hope the street compound is even better in terms of dust. They might be worth giving a shot.

[S3DUDE]

This is a shot in the dark but does anyone knows if the 8V rotors would fit the 8Y? I know the 8Y is 2mm bigger in diameter and the barkes pads and calipers are different. If I can not make them fit I would have to sell my 2 pieces Neuspeed rotors and Carbotech pads which are in great condition.

[Rod Paine]

S3Dude
You wrote "Ran stock RS3 11.703 with traps of 117-118.94 mph at 3100 ft elevation

Where was this in Tucson? I am a long ago Tucson boy (1949-1958) and started fast
back roads drives around Sabino Canyon. But probably very different today.
I am driving a 2019 RS 3 in northern Virginia 3 days a week as weather permits
and between 10am and 2pm when very little traffice is on these roads.

Has amounted to 30,751 miles out of a total of 42,862 miles thus far, on
245/40/18 as the stock 19-inch 235/35/19 setup lasted only 3 days due to
the very poor road surface problems that killed two tires!
-Rod

[mrdouble99]

someone retrofit to the steel brake on a RS3 ?

Is the caliper the same between the 2 style rotor ?

[MESOGLEA]

I have a set of front/rear Girodisc with their Magic Pads.
they look and perform great.

https://girodisc.com/finder/?pfresults=true&make=Audi&model=RS3%20Sedan%20(8V)&submodel=All&f_trim=All&f_axle=All

[xeonoex]

Updated to add Girodisc options, as well as some more parts from FCP Euro.

[WoolEnthusiast]

I just had my front pads replaced due to squealing. Went with GiroDisc MP-1894, which is the part number for the B9 RS5 front brake pads. GiroDisc's part finder does direct you to the correct SKU (and not the 8V RS3 SKU, which won't fit), but just in case it seemed odd to anyone else, I can confirm they fit.

[RSMike]

If you guys want more options, ENDLESS EIP293 Front and EIP251 rear.
You'll be able to order whatever compounds you want from your local dealer.
SSM-Plus (MP) for street only use, this is zero dust and excellent disc/pad wear.
MX72 for hard street driving or light track.
Then ME22/ME20/N35S etc for track use.

Front Shape - https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP293.pdf
Rear Shape - https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP251.pdf

[xeonoex]

Thanks, updated. It does seem like the fronts use the same pads as the B9 RS5, and same rear pads as the prior RS3. But I would still wait on confirmation from the seller.

[elijahallen]

I used the isweep 3600 pads for a track weekend. They held up great and had good bite after one lap that stayed consistent for a 30 minute run session.

[stummiller]

529 innovations:

https://www.529innovations.com/529brakepads/p/a3-s3-rs3-brakepads


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Edit: This is for the rear pads only. Front pads are available from Carbotech according to Pete at 529Innovations.com
Unfortunately, for the 8Y, Carbotech requires customer to send in old brakes as re-core since they can't get pad backings yet.
Edit: Carbotech rears for 8Y now available without customer supplying original pad backing

[stummiller]

I used the isweep 3600 pads for a track weekend. They held up great and had good bite after one lap that stayed consistent for a 30 minute run session.

Was this for 8Y or 8V and were you using stock front rotors?

[stummiller]

Thanks for this thread. Very helpful. Just to add my own experience with the '23 8Y with steel brakes.

I drive mostly on the street but doing 4-6 HPDE events a year, I'd like better brake performance for the track. I have no issues with the stock brakes on the street except maybe the amount of dust the stock pads throw off. On the track however, the OEM pads generate a ton of dust which after a few sessions packs up in the cross drilled holes in the rotors until they are basically blocked with dust. Then inevitably the dust gets pulled out of the holes and transferred to the rotors with noticeable build up in the areas of the rotor surface between the holes. This is causing significant brake vibration and reduced braking performance. Once they clean up after a few days of street driving or after performing a bed-in procedure, the pulsing is gone but makes the second half of the HPDE at the track not much fun. Not sure if this is a common thing for the 8Y but talking to another 8V RS3 owner at the track, he had similar issue with his 8V brakes and switched to slotted aftermarket rotors and aggressive pads which seemed to solve the issue for him.

What I am wondering is if a more aggressive pad (that creates less dust) on stock rotors might help of if I just bite the bullet and go with a set of Girodisc front rotors and a better pad? Any experience with Girodisc magic pads?

[xeonoex]

I did one event on the stock pads and they worked well. No fading, but there wear was significant. Then I went to Carbotech XP10s on the front. Much better wear, but more dust as well. My track wheels are red so it's pretty obvious.

My OEM rotors filled up with dust immediately. I switched to Girodiscs front and rear. Rear is completely unnecessary honestly, but they look good. Oddly I still have some noise and vibration occasionally between 60-40 mph while braking. Took it to the dealership and some people felt it and others didn't. The foreman said he never felt it so they didn't really do anything about it. Waste of time. My wheel came loose on track because of it. Almost fell off and totaled my car. I was at the dealership the day before too to replace bolts and torque everything down. The vibration is still there, but it comes and goes oddly enough. I think it has to do with temp.

Girodisc said their pads are not for track use, so I would skip those unless you're switching them out. Honestly, the stock pads might be the best bet if you're not having any fade issues. Mostly because you can replace them through FCP Euro.

I would recommend replacing the front rotors for two reasons - the drilled holes, and the fact that the vanes are reversed on one wheel because Audi use the same rotor left and right.

[stummiller]

*snip*
Girodisc said their pads are not for track use, so I would skip those unless you're switching them out. Honestly, the stock pads might be the best bet if you're not having any fade issues. Mostly because you can replace them through FCP Euro.

I would recommend replacing the front rotors for two reasons - the drilled holes, and the fact that the vanes are reversed on one wheel because Audi use the same rotor left and right.
Thanks. Your experience more or less confirms mine and agree that going to the Girodiscs just on the front is going to drastically improve things. My main issue with stock pads is price as they are $800 a set. I don't think FCP carries them yet either (unless some can confirm the fronts are the same as the B9 S4 pads). iSweep at Neuspeed are about $300 front and $200 rear for the IS3000 pads which sound like they're a good compromise street and track. Issue with iSweep pads is no wear warning harness and $20 per wheel for the brake pad wear sensor by pass.

[elijahallen]

Was this for 8Y or 8V and were you using stock front rotors?

It was on my 8y and yes stock front rotors that also held up very well.

[xeonoex]

Thanks. Your experience more or less confirms mine and agree that going to the Girodiscs just on the front is going to drastically improve things. My main issue with stock pads is price as they are $800 a set. I don't think FCP carries them yet either (unless some can confirm the fronts are the same as the B9 S4 pads). iSweep at Neuspeed are about $300 front and $200 rear for the IS3000 pads which sound like they're a good compromise street and track. Issue with iSweep pads is no wear warning harness and $20 per wheel for the brake pad wear sensor by pass.

I'm pretty sure it's the same pad, but can't confirm. I wouldn't worry about the brake pad wear sensor too much. I just soldered the wire in a loop and plugged it back in. I'm pretty sure it can be disabled via ODB11 as well. The pads are easily visible so it's easy to check the wear level.

[stummiller]

Thanks for all this great info. Has anyone been able to confirm by installing the pads that the front pads are indeed the same shape as the S5 / RS5 and fit in the 8Y RS3 calipers? For example, the Hawk pads in the link provided do not show fitment for RS3. Thanks.

[stummiller]

I am gearing up to replace front rotors (Girodisc) and front and rear pads (iSweep IS3000). I have seen conflicting info on the caliper bolts that mount the front calipers to the hub (not the ones securing the calipers to the mounting bracket) saying these are stretch bolts and should be replaced each time. I've checked a number of You Tube DIY videos and none I have seen so far talk about replacing the 21 mm caliper mounting bolts that secure the caliper carrier to the front hub. Anyone here able to confirm whether these are stretch bolts an should be only used once / replaced each service? TIA.

[xeonoex]

The front caliper carrier bolts are not listed as one time use or torqued like a stretch bolt according to the manual. The rear caliper carrier bolts are, but you do not need to remove them to switch the pads. You will when switching the rotors though.

Front bolts are torqued to 200 nm.
Rear bolts are torqued to 90 nm + 90 degrees.

Rear requires a compact 14mm triple square and a 7mm allen. You only need the allen if you're just doing the pads.

[stummiller]

The front caliper carrier bolts are not listed as one time use or torqued like a stretch bolt according to the manual. The rear caliper carrier bolts are, but you do not need to remove them to switch the pads. You will when switching the rotors though.

Front bolts are torqued to 200 nm.
Rear bolts are torqued to 90 nm + 90 degrees.

Rear requires a compact 14mm triple square and a 7mm allen. You only need the allen if you're just doing the pads.

Thanks very much for this!

[stummiller]

Was over at a friends today doing brakes on my 2023 8Y. Got the Girodisc front rotors and iSweep pads installed with no issues. Challenges came when trying OBDeleven to release rear parking brakes for service to replace rear pads. We were not able to get past SFD unlock issues. He's got OBDeleven Pro. We had the hood open. Went through the screen prompts to complete 2 factor authentication but OBDeleven kept failing when trying to execute function to release parking brake with a generic "there was a problem with SFD" message. Anyone been able to get rear parking brake release to work using OBDeleven or similar tool on the 8Y?

[xeonoex]

Was over at a friends today doing brakes on my 2023 8Y. Got the Girodisc front rotors and iSweep pads installed with no issues. Challenges came when trying OBDeleven to release rear parking brakes for service to replace rear pads. We were not able to get past SFD unlock issues. He's got OBDeleven Pro. We had the hood open. Went through the screen prompts to complete 2 factor authentication but OBDeleven kept failing when trying to execute function to release parking brake with a generic "there was a problem with SFD" message. Anyone been able to get rear parking brake release to work using OBDeleven or similar tool on the 8Y?

Did you unlock SFD on the brake module before trying to release the parking brake? There is a setting to do it automatically, but it fails sometimes, so I would just do it as the first step. It was a little finicky for me as well, but it eventually worked. You'll also need to lock it again when you're done. It does lock/unlock per module, so each has to be done separately.

I recommend following these steps once SFD is unlocked: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_VII_(5G/AU)_ABS_Brakes
Just using OBD11 instead of VCDS.

[MMisencik157]

For anyone who bought the iSweep or Porterfield rear pads can you advise if they have the cutouts on the inboard side that the OE pads have? They don't show them on their website and I'm trying to understand if they required any trimming to fit or if the cutouts are not required.

[xeonoex]

I haven't tried, but I doubt they do. If they are listed as compatible with the 8V, then I think you can say for sure that they do not have the cutout. I think the diagram is accurate on the porterfield site. I don't think anyone has the pad shape yet from what I understand talking to Pete at 529innovations, and I have no idea if they would actually fit.

Here is what the OEM pad looks like
https://i.imgur.com/XQeQArs.jpeg

[LittleDevil]

Anyone have the part #'s for those that have carbon ceramics front brakes? Are the 8y and 8v ceramic calipers/rotors/pads the same? As it seems like for steel fronts they are different than 8v vs 8y.

RS3 8V and 8Y have different front brakes and different brake pads too. RS3 8V have 4 pads per caliper and 8 piston caliper, RS3 8Y have 2 pads per caliper and 6 piston caliper.

[stummiller]

For anyone who bought the iSweep or Porterfield rear pads can you advise if they have the cutouts on the inboard side that the OE pads have? They don't show them on their website and I'm trying to understand if they required any trimming to fit or if the cutouts are not required.

I have the iSWEEP pads in the rear and they do have the cutout and springs but do not have the wear sensors cutouts if that's what you mean. I bought a bypass similar to these https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/front-brake-pad-wear-sensor-bypass-priced-each/001933ecs07a~a/ and it works great.

[S3DUDE]

Was over at a friends today doing brakes on my 2023 8Y. Got the Girodisc front rotors and iSweep pads installed with no issues. Challenges came when trying OBDeleven to release rear parking brakes for service to replace rear pads. We were not able to get past SFD unlock issues. He's got OBDeleven Pro. We had the hood open. Went through the screen prompts to complete 2 factor authentication but OBDeleven kept failing when trying to execute function to release parking brake with a generic "there was a problem with SFD" message. Anyone been able to get rear parking brake release to work using OBDeleven or similar tool on the 8Y?

I have the Rosstech with the 3 VIN package that I haven't used yet but I am terrified to get to the point where you were at. It sucks to lift the car, remove the rear tires go through all the prompts on the menu just to be stuck on that step when you need the software to release pressure from the rear calipers. I will probably do the front ones myself but will pay a specialized shop to do the rears. Another thing that I am trying to do is to pick a set of semi-race rear brake pads that I can be OK with at the track and also on the streets but I ask willing to swap the front pads after a road course.

The one and only time that I took my 8V RS3 to the track on Carbotech 1521 they did not hold a candle after 3 laps. Neither I had the proper fluid not the pads were capable. I had the 2 piece rotors which did well but the rear rotors were glowing like crazy. A mechanic from Audi that worked on my car and was watching me told me that I would have to go into VCDS and turn down sensitivity for rear yaw control on stability control so that it wouldn't use much of ABS activation.

[Amirh87]

Can anyone refer me to a good video explaining how to do the front pads?


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[stummiller]

Can anyone refer me to a good video explaining how to do the front pads?


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This (https://youtu.be/81ftTDzy_aA?si=0zhep2NsL06hv-G5) is for an S4 which uses the same front calipers as the 8Y RS3. You won’t have to worry about the triple square bolts on the back of the suspension upright used to secure the brake line / sensor wires. Our RS3s don’t have those line brackets.


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[xeonoex]

That's a good video. I'd avoid hammering a wrench though. The caliper carrier bolts are 21mm and torqued to 200nm. You can use a breaker bar or an impact to get them loose. Really the only other thing you have to do is push the pistons in. I use visegrips for that to get a little space when they are on the rotor, then a c clamp once they are off. Replace the pads and put the bolts back in. A torque wrench with a flex head makes it way easier to torque from within the wheel well if you do not have a full size lift. I use this one. (https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-drive-split-beam-torque-wrench-trq62203) Socket is 21mm. I also use this impact (https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/18v-subcompact-brushless-half-in-impact-wrench) to get the bolts off. You'll have plenty of access if you turn the wheel a bit.

I have the manual too if you want it.

[stummiller]

That's a good video. I'd avoid hammering a wrench though. The caliper carrier bolts are 21mm and torqued to 200nm. You can use a breaker bar or an impact to get them loose. Really the only other thing you have to do is push the pistons in. I use visegrips for that to get a little space when they are on the rotor, then a c clamp once they are off. Replace the pads and put the bolts back in. A torque wrench with a flex head makes it way easier to torque from within the wheel well if you do not have a full size lift. I use this one. (https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-drive-split-beam-torque-wrench-trq62203) Socket is 21mm. I also use this impact (https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/18v-subcompact-brushless-half-in-impact-wrench) to get the bolts off. You'll have plenty of access if you turn the wheel a bit.

I have the manual too if you want it.

BTW, what pads are you running for track use?


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[Amirh87]

BTW, what pads are you running for track use?


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I have the carbotech xp10s. I love them but the squeak for daily use has become a bit much.


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[stummiller]

I have the carbotech xp10s. I love them but the squeak for daily use has become a bit much.


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Yes but from my experience the alternative is massive brake judder at the track and for days / weeks after from softer pads like my iSweep IS3000s. Wish the pads could be swapped _without_ removing calipers like the 8V brakes…


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[xeonoex]

I had pad smearing issues with the XP10s. XP12s might be ok but I haven't tried them yet. Porterfield makes track pads, but I haven't tried them either. I have one day on my Endless ME20s now. They were pretty great. Pretty low noise. It actually gains bite as it heats up, which is a little weird, but works well. I don't switch between daily and track pads often, so they work well on the street too. I kinda like the softer pedal on the street, and then it gets firmer as you get temp into them. They're not cheap though.

[stummiller]

I had pad smearing issues with the XP10s. XP12s might be ok but I haven't tried them yet. Porterfield makes track pads, but I haven't tried them either. I have one day on my Endless ME20s now. They were pretty great. Pretty low noise. It actually gains bite as it heats up, which is a little weird, but works well. I don't switch between daily and track pads often, so they work well on the street too. I kinda like the softer pedal on the street, and then it gets firmer as you get temp into them. They're not cheap though.

Endless pads all around or just fronts?


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[Amirh87]

Yes but from my experience the alternative is massive brake judder at the track and for days / weeks after from softer pads like my iSweep IS3000s. Wish the pads could be swapped _without_ removing calipers like the 8V brakes…


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I was just going to swap in the xp10s a few days before a track event.


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[xeonoex]

Endless pads all around or just fronts?


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Just front. The rears last forever, even the OEM pads. I think you do need to consider brake balance when choosing pads, but we don't have many options at the moment. I have XP8s rear right now. I had to send my OEM pads to carbotech though.

[stummiller]

Please let me know if new options are available and I will update.

FCP Euro part numbers:

Steel front rotor: 4M0 615 301 BJ
Steel front pads: 83A 698 151 B
Rear rotors: 5Q0 615 601 E
Rear pads: 8Y0 698 451 B

Brake pad options:

It seems the front pads are shared with the B9 S5. The rear pads have slight changes from the 8V.
From Endless:
Steel front pad shape (https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP293.pdf)
8V Steel rear pad shape (https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP251.pdf)

The 8Y pads actual have cutouts on the ears of the pads compared to the 8Y. I cannot confirm whether 8V pads would fit, but my guess is no. I would confirm with the vendor that you can return any rear pads you buy in case they do not fit that do not have that cutout.

Front and rear
Carbotech sold by 529 Innovations (https://www.529innovations.com/529brakepads/p/a3-s3-rs3-brakepads)
EBC sold by EBC Brakes Direct (https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/audi/rs3/2.50-Petrol-Turbo-2021-/153904)
Girodisc search (https://girodisc.com/finder/?pfresults=true&make=Audi&model=RS3%20(8Y)&submodel=All&f_trim=All&f_axle=All)

Front:
iSWEEP sold by Neuspeed (https://neuspeed.com/collections/audi-rs3-8y-2-5l-tfsi-quattro/products/isweep-brake-pads-front-rs3-8y-rr1553)
Hawk HB865Z.620 (https://www.hawkperformance.com/pads/hb865z-620)
Porterfield AP1894 (https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap1894/)

Rear:
Porterfield AP1761.1 (https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap1761-1/)

Rotor options:

Front and rear:
Girodisc search (https://girodisc.com/finder/?pfresults=true&make=Audi&model=RS3%20(8Y)&submodel=All&f_trim=All&f_axle=All)

Front
FCP Euro part search (https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=4M0615301BJ)

Rear
FCPEuro part search (https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/Disc-Brake-Rotor/?keywords=5Q0%20615%20601%20E)

Any updates from anyone on the rear pad shape? I checked Porterfield and they still list the same pads for 8Y and 8V ("17-23 RS3 w/Iron Discs") and diagrams show the same EIP251 shape without notches in the ears. I haven't been able to confirm if the notches in the ears of the inner rear pads are functional / required to fit the rear calipers but I do see that the iSWEEP pads on Neuspeed say they fit: Audi RS3 8Y 2.5L TFSI quattro, Audi S3 8Y 2.0L TFSI quattro, Volkswagen Golf GTI Mk8 2.0L TSI, Volkswagen Golf R Mk8 2.0L TSI

[Pink Flamingo]

I’ve got a full set on order with Endless. Once they arrive I’ll compare the shapes and update the group.

[stummiller]

So I think answered my own question (again). I checked the iSWEEP rear pads I have already installed from last summer and looks like the extra notches in the OEM pads are non-functional. If you look at the photo below, you can see (slightly obscured by the pad spreader spring) the edge of the pad and the notch (A) in the inner pad is not engaging with any part of the caliper. You can also see the ear of the outer pad (B) is functional and engages with the floating part of the caliper. Problem solved, question answered?
322607

[o1turbo30v]

Are the RS3 pads the same as the B9 S4/S5 since they are the same caliper? If so that might open up a lot of options.

[S3DUDE]

Are the RS3 pads the same as the B9 S4/S5 since they are the same caliper? If so that might open up a lot of options.

I was talking to my son about this exact topic yesterday. I am prepping my car for the next HDPE and I will be bringing my 8Y RS3. So far I read somewhere that it appears that the S5/S4 calipers are visually the same as the 8Y RS3 but I will take it upon myself to confirm this by calling Audi tomorrow (please stand by for my own update). Just like you said, if the S4/S5 shares the same hardware as the RS3 then I totally agree that it should open a whole lot more option for brake pads as the S4/S5 has been in the market for about 6 years now.

[integroid]

I was talking to my son about this exact topic yesterday. I am prepping my car for the next HDPE and I will be bringing my 8Y RS3. So far I read somewhere that it appears that the S5/S4 calipers are visually the same as the 8Y RS3 but I will take it upon myself to confirm this by calling Audi tomorrow (please stand by for my own update). Just like you said, if the S4/S5 shares the same hardware as the RS3 then I totally agree that it should open a whole lot more option for brake pads as the S4/S5 has been in the market for about 6 years now.

Pretty sure it has been confirmed they are the same pads? I know the Endless pads people are using are listed for a S4/S5.

[xeonoex]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure they're the same. Lots of sites list them as interchangeable.

[S3DUDE]

Pretty sure it has been confirmed they are the same pads? I know the Endless pads people are using are listed for a S4/S5.

Well. I called them twice(Audi Chapman in Tucson), spoke with Steve. The first time he needed a VIN. The second call I provided 2 VINs, one for a 2021 S4 listed for sale on their website and one for my own 2024 RS3.

The parts numbers are completely different but the pads might be completely identical if that makes any sense to whomever is reading me. It goes like this:

2024 RS3 front pads part number 83A 698 151 B cost $1114.62
2024 RS3 rear pads part number 8Y0 698 451B. cost $281.08

2021 Audi S4(with black calipers) front pads part number 8W0 698 151 BD cost $346
2021 Audi S4 rear pads part number 8W0 698 451 AQ. cost $172.61

If I have to guess I would say that the RS3 compound is probably better and more expensive. Obviously the part numbers are different so the result is inconclusive. I would have to go there in person and request to see the brake pads myself and take some pictures and measurements.

Do the calipers look the same to me? yes!!!, do the brake pads looks also the same to me? Yes(I owned a 2019 S5 myself), what caught my attention was the brakes. I had the sport package on my S5(B9) so my calipers were red. At this point what I need to do is to call again but at a different Audi dealer and find me a VIN of a S4/S5 with the sport package. The reason why I am saying this is because I suspect that the sport package S4/S5(red caliper) might as well use a different compound.

Yes.. I know!!! all we are trying to determine is if the shape of the S4/S5 B9 brake pads is the same as the shape of the RS3 8Y but I also want to go further and find out if the compound is also different. As you can see a S5 pad costing $346 and a RS3 costing $1114 don't make a lot of sense[confused]. Anyone is welcome to share and call too.. I am just saying[:D] [:D].

[S3DUDE]

This is getting very interesting(might want to grab pop-corn). I called Audi of Peoria in Arizona and no one would answer at all. Then I called Audi of scottsdale and I grabbed the VIN of one of their nice 2024 S5 with red calipers(sport package). I spoke with their parts department and they say that they can not give me a part number but they can give me a price.


The price that he gave me for the red caliper brake pads was $314 and if you wanted with the sensor is $485.61. their parts department number is (1-866-309-8027) and the VIN that I used to look it up is WAUC4CF58RA041101. Another inconclusive lead because I don't have a P/N to reference to but I will keep trying. In any case, why is the RS3 8Y pad so much more expensive? .

Update(my 4th call) (Audi Chandler) parts department 1-877 465-2812
Called Audi of Chandler and they provided me with the part numbers with and without the wear indicators:

2024 S5 (red caliper-sport package) front brake pad (no sensor)P/N 8W0 698 151 BD. $308
2024 S5 (red caliper-sport package) front brake pad (with sensor)P/N 4M0 615 121 AB. $475.56

So far my confirmed conclusion is that S4/S5 non sport package (black calipers)and sport package (red calipers) uses the same part number. Also the parts numbers are completely different to the RS3 8Y brake pads part numbers. Does it means that they are not the same? I still don't know yet, now we need to compare them physically.

[integroid]

This is getting very interesting(might want to grab pop-corn). I called Audi of Peoria in Arizona and no one would answer at all. Then I called Audi of scottsdale and I grabbed the VIN of one of their nice 2024 S5 with red calipers(sport package). I spoke with their parts department and they say that they can not give me a part number but they can give me a price.


The price that he gave me for the red caliper brake pads was $314 and if you wanted with the sensor is $485.61. their parts department number is (1-866-309-8027) and the VIN that I used to look it up is WAUC4CF58RA041101. Another inconclusive lead because I don't have a P/N to reference to but I will keep trying. In any case, why is the RS3 8Y pad so much more expensive? .

Update(my 4th call) (Audi Chandler) parts department 1-877 465-2812
Called Audi of Chandler and they provided me with the part numbers with and without the wear indicators:

2024 S5 (red caliper-sport package) front brake pad (no sensor)P/N 8W0 698 151 BD. $308
2024 S5 (red caliper-sport package) front brake pad (with sensor)P/N 4M0 615 121 AB. $475.56

So far my confirmed conclusion is that S4/S5 non sport package (black calipers)and sport package (red calipers) uses the same part number. Also the parts numbers are completely different to the RS3 8Y brake pads part numbers. Does it means that they are not the same? I still don't know yet, now we need to compare them physically.


Not sure if it makes a difference, but isweep has listed the pads for the 2018/2019 S5 as the same part number as 8Y RS3. They do not have the B9.5 2020+ S5 listed as having any pads available from isweep. Maybe you need to check specifically B9 S4/S5/SQ5 VIN.

[stummiller]

Just front. The rears last forever, even the OEM pads. I think you do need to consider brake balance when choosing pads, but we don't have many options at the moment. I have XP8s rear right now. I had to send my OEM pads to carbotech though.

Hey @xeonoex, How did the Endless ME20 pads hold up and did they eliminate the smearing / judder for you? Were they kind to the Girodisc rotors? I need to order pads this week. Thanks!


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[S3DUDE]

I’ve got a full set on order with Endless. Once they arrive I’ll compare the shapes and update the group.

Did they arrived yet or is it going to be an endless wait? (did you get my joke)?[:D]. No seriously now, did you get them or are they like special order ? My wife's 8Y RS3 has already 17k miles and the OEM pads don't have as strong bite as when they were new and we are looking for something stronger more of sport pads for spirited driving (not track) but something with more bite for city driving.

[Pink Flamingo]

Did they arrived yet or is it going to be an endless wait? (did you get my joke)?[:D]. No seriously now, did you get them or are they like special order ? My wife's 8Y RS3 has already 17k miles and the OEM pads don't have as strong bite as when they were new and we are looking for something stronger more of sport pads for spirited driving (not track) but something with more bite for city driving.

My pads arrived earlier this week and I just dropped the car off at the shop. I’ll have some news after I pick it up.

[S3DUDE]

^^ Great to know... hopefully you can tell us how you like them soon.

[NapalmEnema]

Are the rear pads swap / replace same setup as an S3?

[xeonoex]

Hey @xeonoex, How did the Endless ME20 pads hold up and did they eliminate the smearing / judder for you? Were they kind to the Girodisc rotors? I need to order pads this week. Thanks!

So far so good. Mainly trying to figure out tire wear now. I haven't had enough time on track to really determine pad or rotor wear. My rotors were already pretty dead when I put these on.

[stummiller]

Ok good to hear. Just ordered my ME-20 pads and my rotors (Girodisc front and OEM rear) are still pretty much new. For the price of these pads I have high expectations!

[integroid]

I just installed a set of iSweep 3000 pads on my 8Y. I originally ordered the 3500 pads but Neuspeed was out of stock on them and said I would have to pay air freight shipping from Japan if I wanted them before the next 3-4 months. I opted for the last 3000 set they had in stock. SO far they have been great pads on the street. Knock on wood but they are actually quieter than stock right now. I only have like 75 miles on them but I was a little shocked that they were so quiet. Maybe the Honda M77 paste is helping keep them quiet? Once you get some heat into them the pads responds very well. Much better initial bite than stock and better braking all around. Not sure how dust is since I havent put many miles on them but I did just wash the car yesterday so I should know within a day or two. So far very pleased with them. I have a track day in May so should know how well they respond on track then.

On install, I read where someone said they got an impact wrench behind the caliper to take the bolts off. I have no idea how you got one on the nut because I have one of the smallest cordless impacts and either the plastic air dam got in the way or the sway bar end link got in the way. I ended up using a breaker bar and a mallet to break loose the bolts and then went back with a wrench to take them out completely. The swivel head torque wrench really does make it easier to reinstall the bolts to the correct torque specs. It is still a little rough getting to desired torque on the ground. If you are on a lift it would be simple because you would have better leverage.

Anyway, just wanted to give some input on my experience with the iSweep 3000 pads.

[stummiller]

I currently have the is3000 pads on front and rear. I have no issue with these pads on the street. Quiet and great braking performance. I originally got them to try and eliminate brake judder (caused by uneven smearing of the pad material on the rotors) that I was experiencing with stock pads and rotors at HPDEs. I switched to slotted Girodisc two piece rotors and the is3000 pads but found they did not fix the issue. I am now switching to Endless ME-20 pads for my next HPDE in April. Can report back after that.

I am lucky to have a friend locally with a lift. I can’t imagine torquing those front caliper bolts to 200nm on jack stands!


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[xeonoex]

On install, I read where someone said they got an impact wrench behind the caliper to take the bolts off. I have no idea how you got one on the nut because I have one of the smallest cordless impacts and either the plastic air dam got in the way or the sway bar end link got in the way. I ended up using a breaker bar and a mallet to break loose the bolts and then went back with a wrench to take them out completely. The swivel head torque wrench really does make it easier to reinstall the bolts to the correct torque specs. It is still a little rough getting to desired torque on the ground. If you are on a lift it would be simple because you would have better leverage.

I have this impact and it works. (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18V-SubCompact-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-R872081B/320803178) You do have to turn the wheel though. For me it was a huge PITA torquing without the flex head just on jack stands, but pretty easy after it. I'm using the Tekton Split beams now. The half inch is pretty long and gets outside the wheel well easily. Also turning the wheels for easier torquing.

I got quick jacks too now. Installed my AWE exhaust last night. Haven't driving it though since I finished after midnight. Excited to test it out in an hour or so.

[integroid]

I have this impact and it works. (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18V-SubCompact-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-R872081B/320803178) You do have to turn the wheel though. For me it was a huge PITA torquing without the flex head just on jack stands, but pretty easy after it. I'm using the Tekton Split beams now. The half inch is pretty long and gets outside the wheel well easily. Also turning the wheels for easier torquing.


Yeah thats the impact wrench I have too. I didnt think about turning the wheel....lol.....I had just got done installing my RSB and wife was yelling at me to start the grill so I wasnt thinking straight and was trying to hurry up and get it done....hahahaha....As far as torque wrench, I got the harbor freight Icon Splitbeam onsale for $100 and it has been great. I have a quickjack too. Best automotive tool I have ever purchased!

[integroid]

I currently have the is3000 pads on front and rear. I have no issue with these pads on the street. Quiet and great braking performance. I originally got them to try and eliminate brake judder (caused by uneven smearing of the pad material on the rotors) that I was experiencing with stock pads and rotors at HPDEs. I switched to slotted Girodisc two piece rotors and the is3000 pads but found they did not fix the issue. I am now switching to Endless ME-20 pads for my next HPDE in April. Can report back after that.

I am lucky to have a friend locally with a lift. I can’t imagine torquing those front caliper bolts to 200nm on jack stands!


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It isnt fun trying to torque it down to 200NM on Quickjacks....I couldnt imagine doing it on jackstands. It is doable you just have to position yourself correctly.

Let me know how you like the endless pads. I really wanted to order them from my source but was told it would be a few months before they placed another stock order,

[S3DUDE]

Here is another contribution to add to my previous responses regarding brake pads. As you can see on this link (see below), it appears that this seller openly discloses that the RS3 pad suppose to be a match to other existing Akebono pads. This is something that a lot of people already suspected but not everyone removed their calipers and tested. I personally called Daniel Stagg from Essex today inquiring on another set of brakes for a different platform (car) that I also race and he told me that they are still in the works with Ferodo for offering a race pad for the RS3. The link below is more of confirming the shape/fitment.


https://www.killerbrakes.com/product/front-ferodo-racing-ds2500-brake-pads-fcp4967h-audi-s4-rs4-b9-q7-4m-rs3-8y/

[xeonoex]

Awesome, thanks! I will add that to the list.

[S3DUDE]

Hey guys, quick update. I just spent 29 minutes talking to Jerry Tambayong (Manager at Neuspeed). I enjoy talking to people that knows their stuff and I got a lot of useful info and feedback from him. I ordered 4 sets of brakes pads, let me explain:

My wife wanted more bite on her daily driven RS3 so after talking to Jerry he suggested me IS2000. Apparently there is a big difference on Brembo vs Akebono brake pads between 8V and 8Y. He explained me that anything IS1500 and above on the 8V had a tendency to lightly squeal, however not the case with the Akebono 8Y calipers where you can get away with no squeal on IS2000. For this reason I went with IS2000 on a RS3 8Y that is going to be daily driven and needs more bite.

On a different application, I opted for a IS3000 Front and IS2000 for the rears on my 2024 because I will be doing some road courses. This car will also get Neuspeed stainless steel lines and castor fluid(both on hand). The pads will arrive this Thursday and everything will get installed on the third. I will post some pictures.

Speaking of brakes options and specifically on brake pads I would say that there is not a ton of sport brakes pads out there yet for the 8Y. After a few days of searching it came down to the ferodo DS2500 and some hawks that someone referenced. Off course you can still get pads from Autozone and other places but not from many sport brake dedicated shops. These 4 sets of brake pads set me back in the low $800 (two fronts and two rears) and that is including shipping and taxes so not really a bad price overall.

The IS2000 will to eat up the rotors because the compound is not that aggressive but they have a strong bite. The IS3000 will wear the rotor at a 20% higher rate compared to stock brake pads. Not much to add, I will post pictures whenever they arrive and post some feedback after my next time attack.

[stummiller]

Thanks for the update. I can add that I had IS3000 front and rear and never had a squealing problem. I just replaced the fronts with Endless ME-20 and have a set of matching ME-20 compound for the rears as well but having an issue opening the rear electric parking brakes with my new OBDeleven Pro. New thread coming LOL ...

[200Audi]

How many miles did the pads lasted? Want to start looking for when I need to change the OEMs (even faster after a couple of track days later this year)


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[NapalmEnema]

How many miles did the pads lasted? Want to start looking for when I need to change the OEMs (even faster after a couple of track days later this year)


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My rears lasted 15k with just sporty driving no track time. And I don't drive like an ass / wife doesn't - not slamming brakes every other day sort of approach to life.

[S3DUDE]

As promised... my two double set of brake pads arrived. One RS3 will have IS Sweeps IS2000 front and rear (wife's car) and mine will have IS3000 Front and IS 2000 rear. Neuspeed manager (Jerry Tambayong) elaborated on the characteristics of each brake pads and was telling me about the 80/20(F/R bias) and how each pad would be ideal for each of our specific driving conditions.

If you guys are interested I can grab a caliper and post the true dimensions and pad thickness. I will have these brakes mounted very soon?(next week) and I will be hitting to the track in less than 3 weeks. If you are serious about feedback on brake pads for the 8Y stay tune as I will provide feedback on both RS3s and different brakes pads.

These brake pads are 100% original, genuine, authentic Japanese made. They even sent me Japanese newspaper wrapping the boxes. The parent company for these Japanese pads are Winmax. Here is their official website:

https://www.winmax.jp/en

[integroid]

Curious to see how you like the IS2000 on the rears. I currently have the stock rear pads with the IS3000 fronts.


As promised... my two double set of brake pads arrived. One RS3 will have IS Sweeps IS2000 front and rear (wife's car) and mine will have IS3000 Front and IS 2000 rear. Neuspeed manager (Jerry Tambayong) elaborated on the characteristics of each brake pads and was telling me about the 80/20(F/R bias) and how each pad would be ideal for each of our specific driving conditions.

If you guys are interested I can grab a caliper and post the true dimensions and pad thickness. I will have these brakes mounted very soon?(next week) and I will be hitting to the track in less than 3 weeks. If you are serious about feedback on brake pads for the 8Y stay tune as I will provide feedback on both RS3s and different brakes pads.

These brake pads are 100% original, genuine, authentic Japanese made. They even sent me Japanese newspaper wrapping the boxes. The parent company for these Japanese pads are Winmax. Here is their official website:

https://www.winmax.jp/en

[S3DUDE]

As it turns out the two shops that gave me a quote are expensive. The Audi dealer wants roughly $400 to do the rears and $300 to do the fronts. The third party specialized shop that I was planning on doing the brake pads wants $500(rounded up) for front and rear pads install.

[NapalmEnema]

As it turns out the two shops that gave me a quote are expensive. The Audi dealer wants roughly $400 to do the rears and $300 to do the fronts. The third party specialized shop that I was planning on doing the brake pads wants $500(rounded up) for front and rear pads install.

Hence wanting to do myself. I'll post up when I do them next week with the ODB11 - honestly they appear no more difficult than my Type R rear brakes - same deal with that car - put it in mode to disable the parking brake - change brake pads - set back to normal - drive off.

[S3DUDE]

Hence wanting to do myself. I'll post up when I do them next week with the ODB11 - honestly they appear no more difficult than my Type R rear brakes - same deal with that car - put it in mode to disable the parking brake - change brake pads - set back to normal - drive off.
I found a video of these guy doing the rear breaks on a 8V A3 putting 12VDC power directly to the leads of the rear e-brake motor plug and having the brake piston retracting. No CEL after that. As far is the fronts, I don't have a 100 to 200 lb-tf torque wrench at the time so I would have to invest on one before I torque the caliper bolts.

[stummiller]

Please let me know if new options are available and I will update.

FCP Euro part numbers:

Steel front rotor: 4M0 615 301 BJ
Steel front pads: 83A 698 151 B
Rear rotors: 5Q0 615 601 E
Rear pads: 8Y0 698 451 B

Brake pad options:

It seems the front pads are shared with the B9 S5. The rear pads have slight changes from the 8V.
From Endless:
Steel front pad shape (https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP293.pdf)
8V Steel rear pad shape (https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP251.pdf)

The 8Y pads actual have cutouts on the ears of the pads compared to the 8Y. I cannot confirm whether 8V pads would fit, but my guess is no. I would confirm with the vendor that you can return any rear pads you buy in case they do not fit that do not have that cutout.

Front and rear
Carbotech sold by 529 Innovations (https://www.529innovations.com/529brakepads/p/a3-s3-rs3-brakepads)
EBC sold by EBC Brakes Direct (https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/audi/rs3/2.50-Petrol-Turbo-2021-/153904)
Girodisc search (https://girodisc.com/finder/?pfresults=true&make=Audi&model=RS3%20(8Y)&submodel=All&f_trim=All&f_axle=All)

Front:
iSWEEP sold by Neuspeed (https://neuspeed.com/collections/audi-rs3-8y-2-5l-tfsi-quattro/products/isweep-brake-pads-front-rs3-8y-rr1553)
Hawk HB865Z.620 (https://www.hawkperformance.com/pads/hb865z-620)
Porterfield AP1894 (https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap1894/)
Ferodo DS2500 (https://www.killerbrakes.com/product/front-ferodo-racing-ds2500-brake-pads-fcp4967h-audi-s4-rs4-b9-q7-4m-rs3-8y/)

Rear:
Porterfield AP1761.1 (https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap1761-1/)

Rotor options:

Front and rear:
Girodisc search (https://girodisc.com/finder/?pfresults=true&make=Audi&model=RS3%20(8Y)&submodel=All&f_trim=All&f_axle=All)

Front
FCP Euro part search (https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=4M0615301BJ)

Rear
FCPEuro part search (https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/Disc-Brake-Rotor/?keywords=5Q0%20615%20601%20E)

Hey Guys,

Just attempted to put my Endless EIP251 shape ME-20 compound rear pads in and seems either the EIP251 shape is a little different or Endless made theirs with the ear height about 4 mm shorter than the OEM and iSweep pads I have. The ears on OEM and iSweep pads are 19.6 mm and the Endless EIP251 are 15.6 mm. That leaves a nice gap between caliper and caliper carrier as seen in photo and I can push the pad back and forth within th ecaliper when tightened onto caliper carrier carrier. Anyone noticed similar issue with any other aftermarket rear pads? I am curious if its the EIP251 shape that is different or Endless is not true to the EIP251 shape. Leaving the iSweep IS3000 rear pads in for now...
327439327440327441

[S3DUDE]

^^ Bad on endless/EIP251. How could they mess that up? You can literally draw a perfect template with a paper and a pencil and get it right. When I say "you" I mean a company doing the brake pads. Now days there is no excuse, you have 3D printers, you have scanners, you have OMAX that cuts with water jet and you have the actual oem brake pad to use it as a stencil/template.

Sorry to hear brother. Why did you wanted to swap the brake pads? You already had the Sweep 3000 right?

[stummiller]

I dug a little deeper. Neuspeed / iSweep list a different part numbers for MQB (8V RS3 & MKVII Golf R / GTI) and MQBe (8Y RS3 and MKVIII Golf R / GTI). So the pad shape is not the same hence the mismatch on the EIP251 vs OE / iSweep rear pads. I also measured the EIP251 pad ear height on the diagram and those show ~15.6 mm ear height so Endless made the pads to EIP251 spec. It?s just that EIP251 is not the correct shape for MQB evo cars.

[stummiller]

Please let me know if new options are available and I will update.

FCP Euro part numbers:

Steel front rotor: 4M0 615 301 BJ
Steel front pads: 83A 698 151 B
Rear rotors: 5Q0 615 601 E
Rear pads: 8Y0 698 451 B

Brake pad options:

It seems the front pads are shared with the B9 S5. The rear pads have slight changes from the 8V.
From Endless:
Steel front pad shape (https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP293.pdf)
8V Steel rear pad shape (https://www.endless-sport.co.jp/products/brake_pad/PDF/BrakePad/Pad_Shape_PDF/EIP/EIP251.pdf)

The 8Y pads actual have cutouts on the ears of the pads compared to the 8Y. I cannot confirm whether 8V pads would fit, but my guess is no. I would confirm with the vendor that you can return any rear pads you buy in case they do not fit that do not have that cutout.

Front and rear
Carbotech sold by 529 Innovations (https://www.529innovations.com/529brakepads/p/a3-s3-rs3-brakepads)
EBC sold by EBC Brakes Direct (https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/audi/rs3/2.50-Petrol-Turbo-2021-/153904)
Girodisc search (https://girodisc.com/finder/?pfresults=true&make=Audi&model=RS3%20(8Y)&submodel=All&f_trim=All&f_axle=All)

Front:
iSWEEP sold by Neuspeed (https://neuspeed.com/collections/audi-rs3-8y-2-5l-tfsi-quattro/products/isweep-brake-pads-front-rs3-8y-rr1553)
Hawk HB865Z.620 (https://www.hawkperformance.com/pads/hb865z-620)
Porterfield AP1894 (https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap1894/)
Ferodo DS2500 (https://www.killerbrakes.com/product/front-ferodo-racing-ds2500-brake-pads-fcp4967h-audi-s4-rs4-b9-q7-4m-rs3-8y/)

Rear:
Porterfield AP1761.1 (https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap1761-1/)

Rotor options:

Front and rear:
Girodisc search (https://girodisc.com/finder/?pfresults=true&make=Audi&model=RS3%20(8Y)&submodel=All&f_trim=All&f_axle=All)

Front
FCP Euro part search (https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=4M0615301BJ)

Rear
FCPEuro part search (https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/Disc-Brake-Rotor/?keywords=5Q0%20615%20601%20E)

Correct Rear Porterfield Pad is AP2433: https://porterfield-brakes.com/product/ap2433/

[xeonoex]

Thanks, updated. I think it's safe to say now that pads that are listed as fitting the 8V will not work on the 8Y.

[Def_Jukie]

Thoughts on stock pads getting through a single day NASA HPDE in Group 1?

[0000 RS5]

Thoughts on stock pads getting through a single day NASA HPDE in Group 1?

Very driver and track dependent.


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[stummiller]

Thoughts on stock pads getting through a single day NASA HPDE in Group 1?

Mine lasted fine for my first HPDE day but if you are hard on your brakes and get them hot, you may find the pad matrix smears (basically melts) onto the front rotors and causes brake judder. Judder on my car was pretty intense after I started to get more intense braking. If you over drive the car and the electronics start trying to control yaw then you may over heat the rear brakes as the car will use the brakes to correct yaw.


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[xeonoex]

^ This

You will likely be fine on stock pads, but you will probably consume at least 50% of the material. It's better to buy a track pad and save the stock pad as a backup or for street.

Also turn of TC completely so you don't eat them more than you need to. The front is brake-based torque vectoring, so the wear can be very uneven from pad to pad and even with taper.

I did do my first HPDE in the car on the stock pads, FYI. No braking issues, but very worn pads. This was with TC off. My stock rear pads lasted like 8 track days with TC off. In my Focus RS with TC on, I got 1 day for the rear pads.

I have also had extreme wear difference from inside to outside and 3 mm of taper on actual track pads. Like some the outside front pad being 3-6mm taper and the inside being 0-3mm. Then I would go check my pads and see the top of the outside pad looking like I have 6mm left and think I'm good to keep sending it [>_<]

[Def_Jukie]

Appreciate the feedback! Going to give the iSweep 3000's a shot

[Def_Jukie]

Well, plan B. iSweep 3000 are on backorder so I'll give the XP10's a shot since the trackday is on the 13th.

[stummiller]

Well, plan B. iSweep 3000 are on backorder so I'll give the XP10's a shot since the trackday is on the 13th.

For track, unless you are taking it really easy on the brakes, I'd recommend something with more heat tolerance than the IS3000s. Although they were fine on the rear for me, on the front I'd say go with IS3500 or IS4000. The iSweep charts show those _should_ be ok over 900*F which is lower end of peak temps you'll get on the front rotors. I used the Genesis heat indicating paint on my front rotors and just on bed-in (10x 60-75% brake pressure stops from 60mph) they got to 1000-1300*F.

[Def_Jukie]

For track, unless you are taking it really easy on the brakes, I'd recommend something with more heat tolerance than the IS3000s. Although they were fine on the rear for me, on the front I'd say go with IS3500 or IS4000. The iSweep charts show those _should_ be ok over 900*F which is lower end of peak temps you'll get on the front rotors. I used the Genesis heat indicating paint on my front rotors and just on bed-in (10x 60-75% brake pressure stops from 60mph) they got to 1000-1300*F.

Awesome info, thanks! Neuspeed checked for stock on the 3500's as well but unfortunately they were backordered as well.

[xeonoex]

The Carbotech's are good but I would probably recommend XP12 if you have a few trackdays under your belt. If you're newer to track driving I think the XP10s will work well.

[Ulukai]

Hi Guys,

I would need some advice for the brakes of my 2023 RS3 8Y. I basically detroyed my front brakes after the first trackday with the car last year doing 15-20min on - 20-25min off for 3h. At the end, front pads looked horrible, almost completely gone and coming off their backing plate and the steel rotors turned blue in some parts. I probably could have done a better job of cooling them during the in laps but I did what I was usually doing on that track with my previous Focus RS mk3 and never had issues. Resurfacing them saved the rotors for street driving. But now that trackday season is starting I will need to replace them and after having destroyed them in 1 afternoon I'm hesitating to use the stock rotors again. I have already bought a set of front EBC bluestuff pads waiting to be fitted.

So onto my questions, would Girodisc + EBC bluestuff pads be a clearly more robust combo for trackdays compared to new stock rotors + EBC bluestuff pads? It is apparently difficult to buy these Girodisc in Europe, but buying them on Ebay in US + shipping + tax will only be slightly more expensive than new stock rotors. Any feedback from people using Girodisc?
And yes, whatever solution, I'll make sure to do better job at cooling the brakes between sessions (also fully turning off TC).

Thanks for any feedback or advice.

[xeonoex]

Hi Guys,

I would need some advice for the brakes of my 2023 RS3 8Y. I basically detroyed my front brakes after the first trackday with the car last year doing 15-20min on - 20-25min off for 3h. At the end, front pads looked horrible, almost completely gone and coming off their backing plate and the steel rotors turned blue in some parts. I probably could have done a better job of cooling them during the in laps but I did what I was usually doing on that track with my previous Focus RS mk3 and never had issues. Resurfacing them saved the rotors for street driving. But now that trackday season is starting I will need to replace them and after having destroyed them in 1 afternoon I'm hesitating to use the stock rotors again. I have already bought a set of front EBC bluestuff pads waiting to be fitted.

So onto my questions, would Girodisc + EBC bluestuff pads be a clearly more robust combo for trackdays compared to new stock rotors + EBC bluestuff pads? It is apparently difficult to buy these Girodisc in Europe, but buying them on Ebay in US + shipping + tax will only be slightly more expensive than new stock rotors. Any feedback from people using Girodisc?
And yes, whatever solution, I'll make sure to do better job at cooling the brakes between sessions (also fully turning off TC).

Thanks for any feedback or advice.

The Girodiscs will definitely be better than the stock rotors.

I'm not sure how good EBC pads are. I hear they are inconsistent and haven't bought them myself. My guess is that they will be fine but you will probably heat them up enough to where you would get pad smearing.

If you didn't have TC fully off before, that might be a big part of the problem though. The RS3 does brake torque vectoring and it simulates an LSD in the front with the brakes. Adding traction control means even more heat.
If you were on the stock pads before, you probably did a bit more damage to the rotors from those just overheating. Definitely do a cool down lap mid-session though.

[bokiboki]

The Girodiscs will definitely be better than the stock rotors.

I'm not sure how good EBC pads are. I hear they are inconsistent and haven't bought them myself. My guess is that they will be fine but you will probably heat them up enough to where you would get pad smearing.

If you didn't have TC fully off before, that might be a big part of the problem though. The RS3 does brake torque vectoring and it simulates an LSD in the front with the brakes. Adding traction control means even more heat.
If you were on the stock pads before, you probably did a bit more damage to the rotors from those just overheating. Definitely do a cool down lap mid-session though.

Sorry for this off topic question but are there aftermarket LSD's for 8Y RS3's? Something like Wavetrac or similar? Thanks.

[xeonoex]

Yeah. I believe the transmission is the same as the 8V. DQ500 I think. Wavetrac makes a diff for it.

[stummiller]

Hey all, I've had the Girodisc front rotors for a while now and run them on the street (not daily driver, weekend drives and maybe 1 day a week to work) as well as track (HPDE) plus travel to / from track. My challenge is that from day one, I've had an imbalance issue that I can't resolve. The first set I got was bad enough that I took them off, and put the OEM rotors back on. After I did that the balance was smooth as glass. Girodisc were great and warrantied a new set of rings on the original hats which was much better but still not great. I still have an imbalance above 70 MPH that is livable on the track but really annoying on the highway. I've toyed with the idea of swapping back to OE rotors (and pads while I'm at it) after track events but seems extreme for the amount I actually drive the car on the street. Yah, I'm picky but I'd like to find a way to balance the rotors or find a different set of aftermarket front rotors that are dynamically balanced when I replace the Girodiscs (likely end of this season). Thoughts / suggestions?

[kevin#34]

just for my curiosity, that imbalance you are experiencing, is the same does matter if you are breaking/coasting, or does it varies?

[stummiller]

just for my curiosity, that imbalance you are experiencing, is the same does matter if you are breaking/coasting, or does it varies?

It’s not during braking. Can feel it during highway cruise above 70 ish or anytime on track above 70 ish. Below that it’s fine. Haven’t really noticed during braking from above 70 on the track as there’s usually a lot more going on at that time to focus on lol. It’s not wheel imbalance because happens same with both OEM and track wheels and goes away when I put OE rotors back on.


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[kevin#34]

ok, then definitely related to discs..

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

Hey folks, thanks for the informative thread. I've got a '22 RS3 that likely needs some new front pads and possibly new rotors soon. A few questions if you don't mind -- while I'm not new to replacing brake components I am new to Audis and the concept of brake pad wear sensors as well (never had to replace pads/sensors on my last M2 that had sensors).

1) Does anyone know what the minimum thickness is for the front rotor? I can replace if need be, but if I can still get some mileage out of them that would be great.
2) Can I reuse brake pad wear sensors? They haven't been triggered/activated yet.
3) If I can't reuse brake pad wear sensors, do I need to use the OEM sensors? Is there a reliable aftermarket option?
4) Planning on using Porterfield R4-S pads in the front -- anyone know whether they're compatible with pad wear sensors?
5) If I need to replace rotors, was going to go with GiroDisc, though the post about imbalance from stummiller has me slightly concerned -- is there another option I should consider?

Thanks!

[xeonoex]

Hey folks, thanks for the informative thread. I've got a '22 RS3 that likely needs some new front pads and possibly new rotors soon. A few questions if you don't mind -- while I'm not new to replacing brake components I am new to Audis and the concept of brake pad wear sensors as well (never had to replace pads/sensors on my last M2 that had sensors).

1) Does anyone know what the minimum thickness is for the front rotor? I can replace if need be, but if I can still get some mileage out of them that would be great.
2) Can I reuse brake pad wear sensors? They haven't been triggered/activated yet.
3) If I can't reuse brake pad wear sensors, do I need to use the OEM sensors? Is there a reliable aftermarket option?
4) Planning on using Porterfield R4-S pads in the front -- anyone know whether they're compatible with pad wear sensors?
5) If I need to replace rotors, was going to go with GiroDisc, though the post about imbalance from stummiller has me slightly concerned -- is there another option I should consider?

Thanks!

1 - I think it's 22mm and I believe they start at 24mm.
2 - I think you should be able to.
3 - Not sure on this one. I just took my stock sensors and soldered them so it's just a close loop. Now they are essentially a thing I can plug in to not have wear sensors. If it get new pads with sensors though, I can just plug those back in.
4 - It's the right pad shape, so my guess is that you can use the sensors but I don't think they come with sensors.
5 - Girodisc and OEM are the only options as far as I know. I would definitely take the Girodisc over OEM. I have girodiscs and they work well. They're a great company too.

IDK what the cause of stummillers problem is (it's very odd) but Girodisc has been around forever and is a good brand.
The OEM rotors are directional, but there is only one direction, so one rotor is facing the wrong way. Not good for cooling. They're also drilled which cracks faster.

stummiller, can you describe the issue in terms of what you're experiencing? Is it noise? Vibration? I had noise and vibration issues but I finally figured out it was pad smearing. I even turned them and it was good until i tried re-bedding and it came right back. Solution was higher temp pads.

[stummiller]

1 - I think it's 22mm and I believe they start at 24mm.
2 - I think you should be able to.
3 - Not sure on this one. I just took my stock sensors and soldered them so it's just a close loop. Now they are essentially a thing I can plug in to not have wear sensors. If it get new pads with sensors though, I can just plug those back in.
4 - It's the right pad shape, so my guess is that you can use the sensors but I don't think they come with sensors.
5 - Girodisc and OEM are the only options as far as I know. I would definitely take the Girodisc over OEM. I have girodiscs and they work well. They're a great company too.

IDK what the cause of stummillers problem is (it's very odd) but Girodisc has been around forever and is a good brand.
The OEM rotors are directional, but there is only one direction, so one rotor is facing the wrong way. Not good for cooling. They're also drilled which cracks faster.

stummiller, can you describe the issue in terms of what you're experiencing? Is it noise? Vibration? I had noise and vibration issues but I finally figured out it was pad smearing. I even turned them and it was good until i tried re-bedding and it came right back. Solution was higher temp pads.

1) front rotor starting thickness is 36 mm and wear limit is 34 mm (Audi service manual)
4) you can def re-use sensors if they are not already cracked and as long as the new pads have the correct cut outs. I had to bend the spring clip a little to get them snug on one and had to use a fine round file to clean out some burrs on another to get them securely in the cut outs.
5) My issue with the Girodiscs has been an imbalance vibration above 65 or 70 mph on the highway (and track) while no brakes applied. I had a pretty bad imbalance (“womp, womp, womp”) on the first set. Put my OE rotors back on and it went away. Returned my first set and Girodisc put different rings on the same hats. I remounted them and vibration came back (same wheels and tires) just not as bad. I’ve also got a set of freshly mounted and balanced track wheels and tires and the vibration is the same with those mounted. It’s nothing to do with brakes applied or not. I also had pad smearing and judder under hard braking from an earlier set of pads but with Endless ME-20 pads that’s no longer an issue. I live with the imbalance vibrations now but it’s annoying as hell. Enough so that I’m considering swapping back to OE rotors and pads after each track event. I don’t daily the car but takes away any enjoyment of highway travel.


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[stummiller]

1 - I think it's 22mm and I believe they start at 24mm.
2 - I think you should be able to.
3 - Not sure on this one. I just took my stock sensors and soldered them so it's just a close loop. Now they are essentially a thing I can plug in to not have wear sensors. If it get new pads with sensors though, I can just plug those back in.
4 - It's the right pad shape, so my guess is that you can use the sensors but I don't think they come with sensors.
5 - Girodisc and OEM are the only options as far as I know. I would definitely take the Girodisc over OEM. I have girodiscs and they work well. They're a great company too.

IDK what the cause of stummillers problem is (it's very odd) but Girodisc has been around forever and is a good brand.
The OEM rotors are directional, but there is only one direction, so one rotor is facing the wrong way. Not good for cooling. They're also drilled which cracks faster.

stummiller, can you describe the issue in terms of what you're experiencing? Is it noise? Vibration? I had noise and vibration issues but I finally figured out it was pad smearing. I even turned them and it was good until i tried re-bedding and it came right back. Solution was higher temp pads.

Forgot to mention on 3) there are lots of places that have wear sensors but you need to find ones that fit. Since the calipers and pads are same shape as B9 (18-19) S5, sensors for those may work but length of the wire pigtail may not work. I just got a canceller for the rears on mine since the current pads don’t have a cut out for the sensors and since I keep a close eye on my brakes anyways. BTW, there’s only one sensor on the front (RF) and one on the rear (LR).


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[S3DUDE]

So this is a good time to give an update. On one of the 8Y RS3 I am running ISweep 2000 pads front and back, they are exactly what I was looking for, besides that the stock pads were staring to show signs of wear at 19000 miles, they probably had about 6-7mm left. this I sweep 2000 have a great stopping power and good bite, they are quiet. One thing I noticed is how much black dust drops from the calipers when I hose the calipers with a stream of water, lots of dark dust front and back. On the OEM pads you would hardly get any brake dust. I wholeheartedly recommend Iweep 2000 as an option if you need to replace your OEM pads.

As per the other RS3 8Y. I took it to the racetrack and did 3 sessions. I have Sweep 3000 in the fronts and ISweep 2000 in the rear. The car has phenomenal braking power, not only it did not manifested fade or fatigue while braking but they did not damaged the rotors at all. the pedal was very firm during hard stops. Keep in mind that I am also running neuspeed brakelines(I recommend them) and also I had the brake fluid flushed and replaced with Castrol SRF. the Sweeps 3000 make noise for a fraction of a second upon stopping completely, it is very insignificant and they stay quiet as soon as they get hot.

These Iswep pads are made in Japan and they are specific for the 8Y RS3. On a different note, if you plan on replacing your rear brakes pads make you you have OBD11 with the latest SF2 security code and you will also need to by pass the security questions and data confirmation.

Having had the mediocre Carbotech 1521 in the past and having ran out of brakes at the track on the Carbotech 1521 I don't recommend them. The carbotechs weren't even good for street as a replacement but hey, that is just my opinion. I understand that Carbotech has higher tier racetrack pads but I am saying that even when I used them on the street with 2 piece rotors on my 8V RS3 they were nothing special.

I don't foresee myself buying AP brakes although they are considered the best. Honestly I am not a a pro-level nor I can compite so the ISweep in my opinion will do the job for what I need (for now). If I think that my current set-up can't handle the braking at time attacks then I will consider other kits out there but Isweep got you covered on their range of pads. The Isweep 3000(F) and Sweep 2000(R) is a sweet spot of street/track. Not that many choice out there yet either.

The place that I got my stuff from is Neuspeed. Good luck and share your brake experience.

[S3DUDE]

Forgot to mention on 3) there are lots of places that have wear sensors but you need to find ones that fit. Since the calipers and pads are same shape as B9 (18-19) S5, sensors for those may work but length of the wire pigtail may not work. I just got a canceller for the rears on mine since the current pads don’t have a cut out for the sensors and since I keep a close eye on my brakes anyways. BTW, there’s only one sensor on the front (RF) and one on the rear (LR).


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The shop that I had my rear brakes done were able to build a plug for me for the rears which was great. One less thing to worry. In the past I ordered the dummy plugs from Vargas turbo for a reasonable price.

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

Thanks guys. Looks like I need to dig out my calipers and see how thick the rotors are now. Pads are already on the way.

[kevin#34]

what Girodisc says about the imbalance still present (despite reduced) on the new rings?
it's first time I read about this, I think you should have no imbalance at all on such a quality discs


1) front rotor starting thickness is 36 mm and wear limit is 34 mm (Audi service manual)
4) you can def re-use sensors if they are not already cracked and as long as the new pads have the correct cut outs. I had to bend the spring clip a little to get them snug on one and had to use a fine round file to clean out some burrs on another to get them securely in the cut outs.
5) My issue with the Girodiscs has been an imbalance vibration above 65 or 70 mph on the highway (and track) while no brakes applied. I had a pretty bad imbalance (“womp, womp, womp”) on the first set. Put my OE rotors back on and it went away. Returned my first set and Girodisc put different rings on the same hats. I remounted them and vibration came back (same wheels and tires) just not as bad. I’ve also got a set of freshly mounted and balanced track wheels and tires and the vibration is the same with those mounted. It’s nothing to do with brakes applied or not. I also had pad smearing and judder under hard braking from an earlier set of pads but with Endless ME-20 pads that’s no longer an issue. I live with the imbalance vibrations now but it’s annoying as hell. Enough so that I’m considering swapping back to OE rotors and pads after each track event. I don’t daily the car but takes away any enjoyment of highway travel.


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[bokiboki]

Where would one source the OEM rotors and pads for the 8Y, Audi dealerships, online? How much do they go for? I don't think ECSTuning has them, any other sources?

[S3DUDE]

Where would one source the OEM rotors and pads for the 8Y, Audi dealerships, online? How much do they go for? I don't think ECSTuning has them, any other sources?

The dealer would be the worst and the last place you want to go for fair prices. Try FCPeuro, they have lifetime warranty on most of their products. Also look at big vendors/distribuitors like tire rack or buybrakes. Lastly, you might as well go for an upgraded replacement, there are good brands out there worth of buying. I personally had Neuspeed before, I shaved 7lbs per rotor and they never warped but there are other good stuff like 034 motorsports. ECS also sell them and they are very reputable.

[stummiller]

The dealer would be the worst and the last place you want to go for fair prices. Try FCPeuro, they have lifetime warranty on most of their products. Also look at big vendors/distribuitors like tire rack or buybrakes. Lastly, you might as well go for an upgraded replacement, there are good brands out there worth of buying. I personally had Neuspeed before, I shaved 7lbs per rotor and they never warped but there are other good stuff like 034 motorsports. ECS also sell them and they are very reputable.

Not many options unfortunately. I think the OE rotors are close to $800 each and OE front pads about $800 a set if you buy from Audi parts online, more if you go to the parts counter or order through the dealer. That’s for steel (actually cast iron) not carbon ceramic brakes. FCPeuro are definitely worth a try as they may be able to offer a discount compared to the dealer.

For aftermarket, Girodisc are the only ones I know of who make front rotor that is direct replacement fitment for the OE rotors and cost $1,100.00 a set. They are two piece (so you can save a bit on replacements by just putting new rings on the hats), slotted as opposed to OEM drilled ones. They also have a rear set I believe. APR just release a front brake kit but it’s $4,000 and the rotors are specific to their kit.


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[stummiller]

Where would one source the OEM rotors and pads for the 8Y, Audi dealerships, online? How much do they go for? I don't think ECSTuning has them, any other sources?

Check the various links in the first post in this thread and subsequent posts regarding pad options. There aren’t a lot of options for pads either. Front pads are shared with B9 S5 shape so there are a few more options for those. Rear pads are specific to the 8Y RS3 so fewer options.


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[bokiboki]

Check the various links in the first post in this thread and subsequent posts regarding pad options. There aren’t a lot of options for pads either. Front pads are shared with B9 S5 shape so there are a few more options for those. Rear pads are specific to the 8Y RS3 so fewer options.


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Thank you and thanks to everyone that replied to me. I tried looking on FCP Euro parts but they don't have the 2022 RS3 listed as an option. I tried searching by the OEM rotor and pad part numbers from the first post in this thread but they don't have them. Does anybody know what's the exact part number for the 2022- Audi RS3 OEM rotors and pads please? After hearing about your bad experience with Girodisc rotors, I don't think I want to get those. I'm fine with the OEM's. I'm not going to track this car, only ocasional spirited driving here and there. Thanks all.

[S3DUDE]

Stummiller, you are correct, I keep forgetting that when I had the rotors that was on the 8V RS3. Never mind (disregard) on the references that I posted.

[stummiller]

Thank you and thanks to everyone that replied to me. I tried looking on FCP Euro parts but they don't have the 2022 RS3 listed as an option. I tried searching by the OEM rotor and pad part numbers from the first post in this thread but they don't have them. Does anybody know what's the exact part number for the 2022- Audi RS3 OEM rotors and pads please? After hearing about your bad experience with Girodisc rotors, I don't think I want to get those. I'm fine with the OEM's. I'm not going to track this car, only ocasional spirited driving here and there. Thanks all.

You can call FCPeuro and talk to them to find parts for newer models. They told me that they are working on getting their parts lookup populated for newer models but to call them until that’s done. You can also find the part numbers on Audi’s parts website. Just go to your dealer’s site and look for the parts website link. Mine is https://parts.audishrewsbury.com/.


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[stummiller]

Hey kevin#34, I haven't gone back to Girodisc on the rotors since September last year when I received the replacements (although car was stored for winter months here near Boston) and so I think it's been too long to ask for any kind of warranty now. Although the vibration was almost all gone with the replacement rings, the vibration is still there but tolerable. I actually think it could be the aluminum hats but I won't have a chance to confirm until it is time to replace these rotors, maybe as soon as end of this year's track season.

[kevin#34]

Ok, I was just curious to know Girodisc official reply since I've never heard people complaining for vibrations, then I assume your discs might be defective as they left factory.
By the way, I installed mine several weeks ago and as expected, no vibrations/imbalance at all (I own a TT-RS and not RS3, but technically speaking they have pretty similar construction&materials, just a slight different diamater and off-set)

[bokiboki]

You can call FCPeuro and talk to them to find parts for newer models. They told me that they are working on getting their parts lookup populated for newer models but to call them until that’s done. You can also find the part numbers on Audi’s parts website. Just go to your dealer’s site and look for the parts website link. Mine is https://parts.audishrewsbury.com/.


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Thanks for this info, I just checked that url you sent and was able to find the part number immediately.

The part number for front rotor is 4M0615301BJ (4M0-615-301-BJ), manufacturer number AFX44325 and it goes for around $720-760 per 1 rotor at Audi dealerships.

ECSTuning wants $934 for one (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/brake-disc/4m0615301bj/).

Found it on Ebay $527 from one seller but the brand is SHW Performance which I'm not sure if it's OEM or not: https://www.ebay.com/itm/355461567688?itmmeta=01HXVPRHGSM023GY68A44JDJGK&hash=item52c32914c8:g:-fYAAOSwxM5ly1qc&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4JiIQrYygxvn48npQU7mJHKTfQrxq PD1zJpsvk8JsvumLoLGXLfiQ7mA8FFS70yv%2ByACLc4bQPb68 WQp6FX8Ck%2BJyZ8418AAKPNWnE1IxIWskH7SxltdnOPsQOsOR k2mQkcqNFM1ndY7Cd5LT%2FlHGboTq3OM%2FSlx9zNffUJjeYt MZUNByzgXxYdlIcuyxGJWOPK7vdUZQCaWD38bIV6jMAbqk75VB k6LBDaMmaCbQLNCscuNHLjI0Dk4pqCexkwqPMjS8Mb%2F5hS5x hHLRwtjPkLhNXTD1ehPr2w2iXRSd5ZJ%7Ctkp%3ABFBMyJji9u 5j

And the cheapest I was able to find the part (again SHW Performance, not sure if it's OEM or not) for $469: https://eeuroparts.com/product/shw-performance/AFX44325?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwl4yyBhAgEiwADSEjeLEXAAKoW_h4HUZm6ID4 w4T5rH4xFVk093eZS37vVP-wfDO-I2ikdxoCvvsQAvD_BwE

FCPEuro doesn't list anything when I serach their site for these part numbers but I'll get in touch with them just in case. Thanks all.

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

Those of you who have replaced front pads -- did you replace rotors as well? I'm debating whether to do that or not. Pulled out out my calipers and seems to be at about 35mm thickness, so within spec. The only thing giving me pause is that the rotors seem to be...grooved? for lack of a better term -- basically it looks like concentric arcs aligned with the cross-drilled holes.

Have half a mind to throw the pads on anyway and see how it goes. Worst case scenario I ruin a set of pads. I suppose I could also try to get them resurfaced, but that's going to be a bit of a hassle where I live right now.

[NapalmEnema]

Those of you who have replaced front pads -- did you replace rotors as well? I'm debating whether to do that or not. Pulled out out my calipers and seems to be at about 35mm thickness, so within spec. The only thing giving me pause is that the rotors seem to be...grooved? for lack of a better term -- basically it looks like concentric arcs aligned with the cross-drilled holes.

Have half a mind to throw the pads on anyway and see how it goes. Worst case scenario I ruin a set of pads. I suppose I could also try to get them resurfaced, but that's going to be a bit of a hassle where I live right now.

Just pads imo with what you are describing.

[xeonoex]

My rotors currently look like this (maybe a little worse) and I am still tracking them. This is after I cleaned up the pad smearing though.

https://i.imgur.com/R3e5ms2.jpeg

The "grooves" you are describing is probably just pad material smearing on the rotor face from getting caught in the holes. If you don't notice it when driving, it's not a problem. It's just one of the downsides of drilled rotors.

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

Just pads imo with what you are describing.

Thanks.


My rotors currently look like this (maybe a little worse) and I am still tracking them. This is after I cleaned up the pad smearing though.

The "grooves" you are describing is probably just pad material smearing on the rotor face from getting caught in the holes. If you don't notice it when driving, it's not a problem. It's just one of the downsides of drilled rotors.

Ok, mine didn't look anywhere near that stressed. And I'd hoped this was just a byproduct of the drilled rotors. Thanks.

I might still look at getting the rotors resurfaced if I can find a place nearby that will do it with a quick turnaround.

[stummiller]

Those of you who have replaced front pads -- did you replace rotors as well? I'm debating whether to do that or not. Pulled out out my calipers and seems to be at about 35mm thickness, so within spec. The only thing giving me pause is that the rotors seem to be...grooved? for lack of a better term -- basically it looks like concentric arcs aligned with the cross-drilled holes.

Have half a mind to throw the pads on anyway and see how it goes. Worst case scenario I ruin a set of pads. I suppose I could also try to get them resurfaced, but that's going to be a bit of a hassle where I live right now.

Have you confirmed the grooves are not just uneven pad material transfer? Can you feel the grooves have any depth with finger nail dragged across the surface? If the grooves are more than a millimeter deep on each side, I'd consider new rotors but if they're not deep grooves, probably just pads.

[RS8Y]

DBA is an option for the front rotors

DBA53932SLVXD- cross drilled and dimpled
DBA53932SLVS- slotted

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

Have you confirmed the grooves are not just uneven pad material transfer? Can you feel the grooves have any depth with finger nail dragged across the surface? If the grooves are more than a millimeter deep on each side, I'd consider new rotors but if they're not deep grooves, probably just pads.

It's probably pad transfer, as you say. If I look at the cross-drilled holes they're nearly filled with brake dust. There aren't any discernible "grooves" that I can catch with a fingernail. Certainly no variance even close to 1mm. At best I think I'd describe the surface as slightly "wavy."

Including a couple photos below; not sure how helpful they'll be in this case though. At the moment I think I'm leaning toward just doing a pad slap and see how it goes.

330071
330072

[stummiller]

It's probably pad transfer, as you say. If I look at the cross-drilled holes they're nearly filled with brake dust. There aren't any discernible "grooves" that I can catch with a fingernail. Certainly no variance even close to 1mm. At best I think I'd describe the surface as slightly "wavy."

Including a couple photos below; not sure how helpful they'll be in this case though. At the moment I think I'm leaning toward just doing a pad slap and see how it goes.

330071
330072

That looks like pretty decent wear actually, just slightly wavy. Doesn't look like pad smearing to me. Attaching photo of what pad smearing looked like on my Girodisc rotors after tracking with iSweep IS3000 pads. It looks like blotchy dark patches on the rotors and causes bad vibration under braking. Eventually the smearing wears off with street driving in abrasive braking mode. Abrasive mode is when brakes create stopping torque by pure friction pad to rotor. This happens when when operated at lower temps like on the street. When pads and rotors are burnished or bedded properly, a thin even layer of pad material adheres to the rotor surface creating a thin layer of material that allows pads to create more braking torque through adhesion / adherence - basically gripping the rotors more effectively than pure frictional mode.

330077

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

That looks like pretty decent wear actually, just slightly wavy. Doesn't look like pad smearing to me. Attaching photo of what pad smearing looked like on my Girodisc rotors after tracking with iSweep IS3000 pads. It looks like blotchy dark patches on the rotors and causes bad vibration under braking. Eventually the smearing wears off with street driving in abrasive braking mode. Abrasive mode is when brakes create stopping torque by pure friction pad to rotor. This happens when when operated at lower temps like on the street. When pads and rotors are burnished or bedded properly, a thin even layer of pad material adheres to the rotor surface creating a thin layer of material that allows pads to create more braking torque through adhesion / adherence - basically gripping the rotors more effectively than pure frictional mode.

330077

Ah, yeah, never seen anything like that on my rotors, so guess not then. When you say "decent wear" -- do you mean you'd go ahead and replace? Sort of confused here seeing as the caliper measurement doesn't seem to necessitate replacement but the waviness leaves me wondering if I should. Ordinarily I'd replace the rotors when changing pads; every other car I've owned has had plenty of aftermarket options, so I never spent more than $200-300 on a pair of rotors, but with these requiring a $1100-1200 replacement set I'd like to get as much out of them as I can before I have to swap 'em out.

[kevin#34]

apologize for briefly hi-jacking the tread, but I'd like to hear opinions about an annoying issue I am experiencing with my current brake set-up (Girodisc + OEM TT-RS 8S calipers + Brembo HP2000 street pads):
after a proper 500 miles bedding procedure (both discs and pads were brand new), when I do heavy prolonged brakings, I face an abnormal vibration on the pedal... If I let the brakes cool down for a while (let's say 20/30 sec) at the next braking the symptom is not present anymore, except for reoccuring once the brakes are used in heavy manner again..
Any idea? personally, I believe the discs are not the cause, since at cold/normal road use, vibrations are totally absent and the braking is perfect... could be the pads material or spec, that maybe do not match with the discs?

[sleepy_rs3]

apologize for briefly hi-jacking the tread, but I'd like to hear opinions about an annoying issue I am experiencing with my current brake set-up (Girodisc + OEM TT-RS 8S calipers + Brembo HP2000 street pads):
after a proper 500 miles bedding procedure (both discs and pads were brand new), when I do heavy prolonged brakings, I face an abnormal vibration on the pedal... If I let the brakes cool down for a while (let's say 20/30 sec) at the next braking the symptom is not present anymore, except for reoccuring once the brakes are used in heavy manner again..
Any idea? personally, I believe the discs are not the cause, since at cold/normal road use, vibrations are totally absent and the braking is perfect... could be the pads material or spec, that maybe do not match with the discs?

my theory is that when the discs get very hot during aggressive use the gasses generated between the pad and rotor during braking are not able to escape quickly enough creating this vibration. i agree it may be the pad material.

[stummiller]

apologize for briefly hi-jacking the tread, but I'd like to hear opinions about an annoying issue I am experiencing with my current brake set-up (Girodisc + OEM TT-RS 8S calipers + Brembo HP2000 street pads):
after a proper 500 miles bedding procedure (both discs and pads were brand new), when I do heavy prolonged brakings, I face an abnormal vibration on the pedal... If I let the brakes cool down for a while (let's say 20/30 sec) at the next braking the symptom is not present anymore, except for reoccuring once the brakes are used in heavy manner again..
Any idea? personally, I believe the discs are not the cause, since at cold/normal road use, vibrations are totally absent and the braking is perfect... could be the pads material or spec, that maybe do not match with the discs?

Are you seeing spotty or blotchy appearance on the rotor surface similar to this photo? This is pad smearing from using pads that are not tolerant to the heat produced from repeated heavy braking on a track. The brake vibration is most noticeable at medium to high speeds but will clear up over time from street use as long as brakes are kept relatively cool (abrasive mode of brakes).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240613/a041abc38f2f2d509c07b22f0e93c495.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rubicant5x]

Fellas,

Not to hijack the thread, but can any of you comment on the 8Y vs 8V (for those that have switched) in terms of front braking ability between the two models? I am wondering if retrofitting with the 6-piston Akebono fronts over the 8-piston (old AF) Brembo is worth making the jump. Thanks in advance.

[DrMerl]

Fellas,

Not to hijack the thread, but can any of you comment on the 8Y vs 8V (for those that have switched) in terms of front braking ability between the two models? I am wondering if retrofitting with the 6-piston Akebono fronts over the 8-piston (old AF) Brembo is worth making the jump. Thanks in advance.

If you're going for a caliper swap I'd suggest the Essex 9660 kit, large improvement vs messing with the stock brakes (I did all the usual mods with stock calipers). All the pad types are available for this caliper.

[kevin#34]

thanks for your opinion, your theory sounds possible especially considering that discs are slotted and not drilled (drills help gasses to escape)... would a Ferodo DS 2500 pads swap cure the problem? I need a pad that can sustain road (cold) use and tolerate moderated track sessions (no more that 2/3 hot laps)



my theory is that when the discs get very hot during aggressive use the gasses generated between the pad and rotor during braking are not able to escape quickly enough creating this vibration. i agree it may be the pad material.

[kevin#34]

apparently no evident spotty/blotchy appearence, but I did not observe carfully the discs yet, will do this asap. The brakes set-up is quite new (no more than 1500 miles, and mainly on road at normal speed). Once I start driving spirited (even on road), the reported brake vibration starts very quick, this is quite surprising, considering that the OEM discs were sustaing "normal" fast driving much better, and their limit was evident only on track.
As it is now, very disappointed for having spent circa 1600$ on discs and pads, and having such a bad outcome [evilmad]

[QUOTE=stummiller;15079100]Are you seeing spotty or blotchy appearance on the rotor surface similar to this photo? This is pad smearing from using pads that are not tolerant to the heat produced from repeated heavy braking on a track. The brake vibration is most noticeable at medium to high speeds but will clear up over time from street use as long as brakes are kept relatively cool (abrasive mode of brakes).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240613/a041abc38f2f2d509c07b22f0e93c495.jpg

[jh901]

8Y RS3

I'll plan to replace the front pads soon. One of the less dusty options cited in this thread. Do you guys get new brake fluid? What kind for a daily driver?

[S3DUDE]

Hey folks. Here is my experience with Isweep, remember, I am running Isweep on two 8Y RS3s. One of them is running Iweep 3000 front and rear and the other one I am running Isweep 3000 (Front) and Isweep 2000 rears. The Isweep 2000 are a big improvement for spirited driving with a lot more bite and stopping power(street/spirited driving) and ocasional road course.

Below are my I sweep 3000(Front) and Isweep 2000 (Rear) from two Time attack events already. the rears are pristine, almost virtually no wear. The fronts have like 90% life. Very solid pedal feel along with brake fluid(castrol SRF) and Neuspeed lines. I wholeheartedly think that these Isweep pads will serve you right for most of the track/road course needs. This is what I drive everyday and I don't switch them for the track, they stay in.

So far the OEM rotors are holding up, they are fresh with only 3800 miles and two time attacks but time will tell. If you have the cash always get two piece floating rotors and it you can make it rain obviously get APracing but for a lot of us that can't make it rain but still want to go to the track I promise you that The Isweep 3000 or even higher will do the trick.

Here is my link from my Time attack from this Saturday. Far improved compared to a couple of years ago on my 8V RS3 with neuspeed rotors, stock fluid, stock rear pads and Carbotech 1521. Front rotors didn't glow but the pedal went to the floor several times and I literally bite the dust(went off the track into the dirt). Again, that was my last set-up and now we are talking 8Y. My current set-up is far more solid, the castrol SRF fluid, correct pad compound and brake lines made a huge difference.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/993749-Time-attack-pictures-and-some-feedback

[Speedy@88]

Did you install these pads on the original rotors or new ones?



Hey folks. Here is my experience with Isweep, remember, I am running Isweep on two 8Y RS3s. One of them is running Iweep 3000 front and rear and the other one I am running Isweep 3000 (Front) and Isweep 2000 rears. The Isweep 2000 are a big improvement for spirited driving with a lot more bite and stopping power(street/spirited driving) and ocasional road course.

Below are my I sweep 3000(Front) and Isweep 2000 (Rear) from two Time attack events already. the rears are pristine, almost virtually no wear. The fronts have like 90% life. Very solid pedal feel along with brake fluid(castrol SRF) and Neuspeed lines. I wholeheartedly think that these Isweep pads will serve you right for most of the track/road course needs. This is what I drive everyday and I don't switch them for the track, they stay in.

So far the OEM rotors are holding up, they are fresh with only 3800 miles and two time attacks but time will tell. If you have the cash always get two piece floating rotors and it you can make it rain obviously get APracing but for a lot of us that can't make it rain but still want to go to the track I promise you that The Isweep 3000 or even higher will do the trick.

Here is my link from my Time attack from this Saturday. Far improved compared to a couple of years ago on my 8V RS3 with neuspeed rotors, stock fluid, stock rear pads and Carbotech 1521. Front rotors didn't glow but the pedal went to the floor several times and I literally bite the dust(went off the track into the dirt). Again, that was my last set-up and now we are talking 8Y. My current set-up is far more solid, the castrol SRF fluid, correct pad compound and brake lines made a huge difference.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/993749-Time-attack-pictures-and-some-feedback

[S3DUDE]

Did you install these pads on the original rotors or new ones?

I did not personally installed them, I had a local shop do it mainly because I couldn't tackle the rear pads myself without the SFD code and I did not have OBD 11. As per your question regarding the new pads on original rotors? Yes sir, the rotors are original and the car had like 3000 miles or less at the time (the car is a 2024).

I picked the Isweep 3000 fronts and Isweep 2000 based on Terry Tambayong recommendation upon a long conversation regarding my driving style and my driving needs. We came to the conclusion that I wanted more bite, more stopping power and something that I could hit the racetrack every month or every other month. So far I am wholeheartedly impressed with the results, the rotors are holding up very well and I see marginally no much wear. I only witnessed the front rotor getting a light glow on the front rotors (hardly visible). From what I understand and from what I seen there are many more raw options with Isweep.

If I had a ton of money to blow I would have picked a complete AP racing BBK kit but in all honesty I tried out this Isweep combo pads along with the 4 brake lines and Castrol fluid and is doing the trick.

[S3DUDE]

It's probably pad transfer, as you say. If I look at the cross-drilled holes they're nearly filled with brake dust. There aren't any discernible "grooves" that I can catch with a fingernail. Certainly no variance even close to 1mm. At best I think I'd describe the surface as slightly "wavy."

Including a couple photos below; not sure how helpful they'll be in this case though. At the moment I think I'm leaning toward just doing a pad slap and see how it goes.

330071
330072

My OEM front rotors dimples were also compacted with brake dust. I had to blast them with compressed air and even like that in some of them I had to poke them with a little scribe to clean the wholes. I also cleaned my brakes calipers very well with a rounded painters brusg and soapy water and later on with parts cleaner.

[Speedy@88]

Nice. I ordered the 3000/2000 combo based on few posts you made here. However I’m a little concerned because someone else had major smearing here with the 3000s up front. I’m not a newbie, and will be hitting the track soon. I was thinking maybe I should have gone with 2500 in the rear or 3500 in the front. I guess I’ll see how it goes. How’s the noise up front driving in the street?
I’m also getting neuspeed lines and endless brake fluid.



I did not personally installed them, I had a local shop do it mainly because I couldn't tackle the rear pads myself without the SFD code and I did not have OBD 11. As per your question regarding the new pads on original rotors? Yes sir, the rotors are original and the car had like 3000 miles or less at the time (the car is a 2024).

I picked the Isweep 3000 fronts and Isweep 2000 based on Terry Tambayong recommendation upon a long conversation regarding my driving style and my driving needs. We came to the conclusion that I wanted more bite, more stopping power and something that I could hit the racetrack every month or every other month. So far I am wholeheartedly impressed with the results, the rotors are holding up very well and I see marginally no much wear. I only witnessed the front rotor getting a light glow on the front rotors (hardly visible). From what I understand and from what I seen there are many more raw options with Isweep.

If I had a ton of money to blow I would have picked a complete AP racing BBK kit but in all honesty I tried out this Isweep combo pads along with the 4 brake lines and Castrol fluid and is doing the trick.

[S3DUDE]

Nice. I ordered the 3000/2000 combo based on few posts you made here. However I’m a little concerned because someone else had major smearing here with the 3000s up front. I’m not a newbie, and will be hitting the track soon. I was thinking maybe I should have gone with 2500 in the rear or 3500 in the front. I guess I’ll see how it goes. How’s the noise up front driving in the street?
I’m also getting neuspeed lines and endless brake fluid.

^^ Good to hear. I tracked the car on a track that doesn't give you a lot of time/space to cool off (literally). This track is very small(1400 yards) and you are using the brakes a lot and I don't think it allows the brakes to cool off as much as you would like. I have been on much bigger tracks from my house as well, like podium club (Atessa) with a 3000 ft straight and most of the track you don't have to use the brakes much at all and when you do is just momentarily. Inde motorsports is the same way, long 2900ft straight and you have to just tap the brakes a few times but not too hard. The two examples that I gave you were just as a reference, I haven't ran the RS3 on the other two tracks but I have taken my other cars as a comparison and they are easier on the brakes. With that in mind I think you should do just fine.

The ISweep 3000f/Isweep 2000 combo is very quiet. Obviously there will be a compromise whenever you start going higher with the track focus compound vs the street focus compound. I picked this combo with one thing on mind and that is to leave these pads on the car the whole time, that says it all, I wanted a dual mode brake pad capable of doing the street and track but also improve the braking on the street. I am running the Sweep 2000F and rear on the other 8Y RS3 and my wife loves it, it stops in a dime. these isweep2000 rear pads were absolutely pristine after the racetrack, obviously the 20% rear bias has a lot to do with it (low wear).

For the price range I firmly believe that Isweeps are an incredible value. If the rotors keep holding up and the pads keep performing so good providing firm pedal and powerful bite I would then most likely keep them but I could also try a Isweep 2500 on the rears although I don't think is necessary. Either way I will draw the line and wouldn't go past the Isweep 3500. I considered the Frodo DS2500 but I don't think they were released on the 8Y platform. Talking to Jerry Tambayong (Manager at Neuspeed) helped me tremendously as he is truly involved on the end result and love to hear the feedback from his products. This is nothing new, I have been talking to him back 7-8 years ago when I had the Audi S3 and he was releasing the 6 piston BBK specific to the S3 8V platform. another good plus is the product itself, it is 100% genuinely made in Japan. Go ahead and try them and see if you like them, they are not that pricey anyways. The only downside on this second track day for me was a slight vibration from the rotors when slowing down in traffic, I probably developed a small hot spot and might have warped the rotor slightly. My plan be would be to eventually put some lightweight rotors but that is later on.

[kevin#34]

quick update: the vibration was due to heavy pads smearing on the disc surface (the black strip visible on the first picture) , so I reinstalled the OEM pads and after some driving (from soft to moderate breaking) the disc surface got completely cleaned (second picture) and the vibration gone...
now think I would throw the HP 2000 in the bin and go for DS 2500...
also want to thank Mike@girodisc for the precious support!





apologize for briefly hi-jacking the tread, but I'd like to hear opinions about an annoying issue I am experiencing with my current brake set-up (Girodisc + OEM TT-RS 8S calipers + Brembo HP2000 street pads):
after a proper 500 miles bedding procedure (both discs and pads were brand new), when I do heavy prolonged brakings, I face an abnormal vibration on the pedal... If I let the brakes cool down for a while (let's say 20/30 sec) at the next braking the symptom is not present anymore, except for reoccuring once the brakes are used in heavy manner again..
Any idea? personally, I believe the discs are not the cause, since at cold/normal road use, vibrations are totally absent and the braking is perfect... could be the pads material or spec, that maybe do not match with the discs?

[S3DUDE]

^^ That is good to know. I haven't put any miles since last Saturday track day (9 days ago). i think I am on the same boat with slight racepad residual that I expect it to clear. I wouldn't swap to the stocks because it would defeat the purpose on why I picked these track/street pads in the first place but I will report within the next few days to see if the small brake vibration clears up with the usage. Definitely stand by for an update (everyone).

[Speedy@88]

What camber did you run on the track and how did the tires hold up?



^^ That is good to know. I haven't put any miles since last Saturday track day (9 days ago). i think I am on the same boat with slight racepad residual that I expect it to clear. I wouldn't swap to the stocks because it would defeat the purpose on why I picked these track/street pads in the first place but I will report within the next few days to see if the small brake vibration clears up with the usage. Definitely stand by for an update (everyone).

[S3DUDE]

What camber did you run on the track and how did the tires hold up?

Stock factory camber and shockingly the tires worn out evenly from side to side. Not even the slightest sign of wear on the outer edge. We piled up 37 laps on our first time attack and 43 on the second time attack. I would say though that the tredwear is at 2/32 literally where the yellow line meets the red line on the tire wear gauge.

Honestly I was expecting a distinctive wear pattern on the outer edge but it did not happened. Although the tires are at 3900 miles now I think they don't have much life specially considering the 2/32. I am not touching the camber/toe until I get the new sticky tires within the next few days.

I was contacting some vendors for wheels/tire package but there is not much of a sale or discount so it looks like I might just stick with the OEM wheel and just upgrade to the stickier tire.

[Speedy@88]

Wow, that is surprising. But also very good to hear! I’m worried that the stock max front camber which I believe is only -1.5 or -1.4 would destroy the outer edges. I was thinking about getting the 034 Motorsport adjusting ball joints for more camber up front, but would have to either remove or cut a part of the dust/heat shield for them to fit.
This kind of makes me just go out there and try it out with factory camber. I did lower the rear camber to match the front in the previous alignment. Definitely don’t want more negative in the rear than front. My goal is the opposite.



Stock factory camber and shockingly the tires worn out evenly from side to side. Not even the slightest sign of wear on the outer edge. We piled up 37 laps on our first time attack and 43 on the second time attack. I would say though that the tredwear is at 2/32 literally where the yellow line meets the red line on the tire wear gauge.

Honestly I was expecting a distinctive wear pattern on the outer edge but it did not happened. Although the tires are at 3900 miles now I think they don't have much life specially considering the 2/32. I am not touching the camber/toe until I get the new sticky tires within the next few days.

I was contacting some vendors for wheels/tire package but there is not much of a sale or discount so it looks like I might just stick with the OEM wheel and just upgrade to the stickier tire.

[S3DUDE]

I have a significant update to share (excellent news). Today I put nearly 70 miles in 3 hours of lots of errands around town and picking up my son from school. My brakes no longer vibrate at low speed. It seems like my rotors had some smearing residual from the front brake pads from the Time attack 10 days ago. It was definitely noticeable but not terrible. I cleaned the pads, calipers and rotors and I washed everything with a round brush and parts cleaner, however, the residual was "glue to the rotor".

It turned out that I simply did not put miles on the car enough to "resurface" the rotors by just driving around. Today I drove nearly 3 hours mostly in traffic and it seems like it cleared out the brake residual from the racing pads. This is another hassle out of the way. I thought that I put a hotspot on the rotor but it does not seems to be the case. I sweep 3000 brake pads for the win on a dual purpose driving(street-track) on oem rotors.

[CMScheid]

If you're going for a caliper swap I'd suggest the Essex 9660 kit, large improvement vs messing with the stock brakes (I did all the usual mods with stock calipers). All the pad types are available for this caliper.


Has anyone done the Essex 9660 kit on an 8Y yet, that you know of? Are there any connections in here to get the Essex kit?

[S3DUDE]

Has anyone done the Essex 9660 kit on an 8Y yet, that you know of? Are there any connections in here to get the Essex kit?

I contacted them (Essex) a few months ago on their live chat, on an e-mail and over the phone and I don't think they had the kit ready for the 8Y. From my understanding they were waiting on Ferodo to be able to offer a combined product. There is a guy selling AP racing kit right now but is for the 8V otherwise I would be all over it but they changed the geometry on the rotor. You can also contact essex directly in the UK and probably save the middle man. It is a hit or miss with the distribuitor in the US, last year they had a huge sale (15 or 20%).

[Speedy@88]

I went out to a track event over the weekend. Shop installed 034 Motorsport ball joints which gave me about -2.4 camber in the front. Neuspeed steel lines, endless brake fluid and isweep 3000/2000 brake combo. Brakes were fine. Had some judder under heavy braking after couple of sessions, but I think it might be dust accumulation. They’re stopping good, but definitely vibrating.
I wanted to ask you about tires. I put trofeo Rs and went my first session at 31 psi front and 30 rear cold. Tires was an extreme rollover of the tires. Over time I adjusted to 37/33 cold and the temps would get up there to the point the car was slidey. Not sure if the trofeos need a lot more camber . What did you start out at cold pressure in general?

[S3DUDE]

I went out to a track event over the weekend. Shop installed 034 Motorsport ball joints which gave me about -2.4 camber in the front. Neuspeed steel lines, endless brake fluid and isweep 3000/2000 brake combo. Brakes were fine. Had some judder under heavy braking after couple of sessions, but I think it might be dust accumulation. They’re stopping good, but definitely vibrating.
I wanted to ask you about tires. I put trofeo Rs and went my first session at 31 psi front and 30 rear cold. Tires was an extreme rollover of the tires. Over time I adjusted to 37/33 cold and the temps would get up there to the point the car was slidey. Not sure if the trofeos need a lot more camber . What did you start out at cold pressure in general?

I normally arrive at the local track with warm tires , typically in the high 40's (49PSI or so). The track is like 35 minutes away from my house. Before we are racing on our first session we drop the tire pressure down to 40 or so. After the first session it goes up again so our sweet spot is around 38PSi. In summary, we see an increase of PSI going up like 14-15 psi total combined after driving on the street plus driving it for a coupe of sessions at the track.

The Trofeos (your trofeos) at 30-31 PSI on cold seems like very low to me. How many miles do you have on your rotors? are your rotors OEM? My rotors had a small vibration after the second session but it went away after driving 70 miles doing errands. It was just brake pad residual smeared. I did cleaned the rotors and calipers well, I gave it a good wash, cleaned the calipers with a brush and blasted the rotors crossdrilled holes with compressed air and sprayed brake cleaner. I think that you would agree with me that the IS3000/IS2000 is one heck of a Hybrid combo brake alternative(track/street). Just curious but do you torque your wheels? I do. it can make a big difference. I am going to be doing a Time Attack at the Musselman Honda Circuit this Saturday. I haven't even touched my camber yet, in fact I don't have an alignment since putting the KW V3 5-6 months ago.. A buddy of mine has a shop that specialized on track custom alignments but I don't want anything aggressive. I am very happy with my KW V3 combo and Neuspeed sway bar but I am looking to get the 275/30/19 Falcon Azenis RT660 and 245/35/19 to put the cherry on the cake.

[Speedy@88]

I had a chance to do couple of more track days. You’re right, seems like 38 or 39 psi is a good spot. I also noticed that starting out 33 psi cold front and rear, combined with taking it easy the first warm up lap, gets the tires in good range.
However, these trofeo r tires most definitely need more negative camber. Looks like -3 at the minimum or more. Mine look like only one half of the tire is being used. Getting pretty chewed up, where the other half looks good.

In regards to those brake pads, so far a pretty good experience. They’re stopping well, however 3500 might be a better option for very fast and aggressive because of higher temp rating. I noticed they are wearing out quick under heat.

Also seems, most of the noise does come from combination of dust deposit and pad transfer on the rotor itself.

I think RT660 is a good tire for a lighter car. Not so much for RS3. Wish Hankook made their RS4 tire in 19in sizes that fit our cars. Those tires wear like a tank and don’t require extreme camber. They’re a bit slower, but who cares.




I normally arrive at the local track with warm tires , typically in the high 40's (49PSI or so). The track is like 35 minutes away from my house. Before we are racing on our first session we drop the tire pressure down to 40 or so. After the first session it goes up again so our sweet spot is around 38PSi. In summary, we see an increase of PSI going up like 14-15 psi total combined after driving on the street plus driving it for a coupe of sessions at the track.

The Trofeos (your trofeos) at 30-31 PSI on cold seems like very low to me. How many miles do you have on your rotors? are your rotors OEM? My rotors had a small vibration after the second session but it went away after driving 70 miles doing errands. It was just brake pad residual smeared. I did cleaned the rotors and calipers well, I gave it a good wash, cleaned the calipers with a brush and blasted the rotors crossdrilled holes with compressed air and sprayed brake cleaner. I think that you would agree with me that the IS3000/IS2000 is one heck of a Hybrid combo brake alternative(track/street). Just curious but do you torque your wheels? I do. it can make a big difference. I am going to be doing a Time Attack at the Musselman Honda Circuit this Saturday. I haven't even touched my camber yet, in fact I don't have an alignment since putting the KW V3 5-6 months ago.. A buddy of mine has a shop that specialized on track custom alignments but I don't want anything aggressive. I am very happy with my KW V3 combo and Neuspeed sway bar but I am looking to get the 275/30/19 Falcon Azenis RT660 and 245/35/19 to put the cherry on the cake.

[S3DUDE]

I had a chance to do couple of more track days. You’re right, seems like 38 or 39 psi is a good spot. I also noticed that starting out 33 psi cold front and rear, combined with taking it easy the first warm up lap, gets the tires in good range.
However, these trofeo r tires most definitely need more negative camber. Looks like -3 at the minimum or more. Mine look like only one half of the tire is being used. Getting pretty chewed up, where the other half looks good.

In regards to those brake pads, so far a pretty good experience. They’re stopping well, however 3500 might be a better option for very fast and aggressive because of higher temp rating. I noticed they are wearing out quick under heat.

Also seems, most of the noise does come from combination of dust deposit and pad transfer on the rotor itself.

I think RT660 is a good tire for a lighter car. Not so much for RS3. Wish Hankook made their RS4 tire in 19in sizes that fit our cars. Those tires wear like a tank and don’t require extreme camber. They’re a bit slower, but who cares.

Good to hear you liked the 3000/2000 combo. For me it was a matter of a true hybrid combo, more focused on ocasional track days with 95% of the driving on city driving. My OEM rotors are in great condition, minor brake pad smearing on my second track day that developed on a tiny vibration braking at low speed. It cleared out after a busy day doing errands for 3 hours/70 miles driving in the city. I might adventure on the Iweep 3500 but in the future, so far the Iswep 3000 have been performing truly exceptional. The rear Isweep 2000 are so good too, absolutely minimal signs of wear.

The 3 degrees of camber is a gamble. You can try it and see how it goes, if you are a hardcore track guy then 3 degrees is the way to go but for me I am more conservative. Back to the noise on the brake pad, I recommend you do a nice wash around the caliper area. I cleaned mine with a brush, soapy water, brake cleaner, rinse it with water and dried it up with compressed air. Another thing I recommend is to unplug (clean) the drill rotor holes because they are likely packed with brake dust.

As per the tires choice. Yes, the Hankook makes the RS4 but only the rears fits the OEM size.

[stummiller]

Hey kevin#34, did you ever sort out the braking vibrations? I recently swapped my oe rotors back on with Carbotech XP-12 pads and pad smear + vibrations returned. Going put the Griodiscs back on and try Carbotech XP-20 or go back to Endless ME-20s.

[kevin#34]

yes, definitely solved (see post #147), vibrations totally disapperead

[CMScheid]

Thread is a little sleepy but I wanted to pass along that 034 Motorsport now has front & rear rotor options:

Front:
https://www.034motorsport.com/2-piece-floating-front-brake-rotor-upgrade-kit-for-8y-audi-rs3.html

Rear (upsized from OE, caliper bracket included):
https://www.034motorsport.com/2-piece-floating-rear-brake-rotor-355mm-upgrade-for-mk8-gti-golf-r-and-audi-8y-s3-rs3.html

[Crowlski]

Thread is a little sleepy but I wanted to pass along that 034 Motorsport now has front & rear rotor options:

Front:
https://www.034motorsport.com/2-piece-floating-front-brake-rotor-upgrade-kit-for-8y-audi-rs3.html

Rear (upsized from OE, caliper bracket included):
https://www.034motorsport.com/2-piece-floating-rear-brake-rotor-355mm-upgrade-for-mk8-gti-golf-r-and-audi-8y-s3-rs3.htmlThanks. Not a fan of the "J" groove design. I don't see a technical advantage to this vs the diagonal groove or thru hole design. Someone please inform me where I'm wrong.

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[0000 RS5]

Per AP Racing:

There are many benefits to the patented J-Hook rotor design. The primary benefit is the increased durability and longevity. For years cross-drilled rotors have been recognized as the best rotor to provide excellent initial bite and additional grip on the pad. As the brake pad grabs the rotor the leading edges of the J-Hook create additional bite on the pad face and provide the driver with a much more positive feedback in braking performance.

Additionally a drilled rotor can potentially form cracks from rapid expansion and contraction during hard use caused by dramatic changes in rotor temperatures. Because the J-Hook machining process does not penetrate through the rotor, it prevents the rotor from forming surface cracks and therefore, can withstand harder driving and high temperatures.


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[o1turbo30v]

I had the Revo/Alcon "J" Hook 2 piece rotors for a while, to be honest i couldnt tell you the difference from the OE's except the J-hook type developed a nasty vibration under hard braking after about a year of use, took them off and went back to OE, butter smooth. Just my 2c.

[Crowlski]

Per AP Racing:

There are many benefits to the patented J-Hook rotor design. The primary benefit is the increased durability and longevity. For years cross-drilled rotors have been recognized as the best rotor to provide excellent initial bite and additional grip on the pad. As the brake pad grabs the rotor the leading edges of the J-Hook create additional bite on the pad face and provide the driver with a much more positive feedback in braking performance.

Additionally a drilled rotor can potentially form cracks from rapid expansion and contraction during hard use caused by dramatic changes in rotor temperatures. Because the J-Hook machining process does not penetrate through the rotor, it prevents the rotor from forming surface cracks and therefore, can withstand harder driving and high temperatures.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine ForumThanks for the explanation. Is the J hook design used in professional motorsports anywhere?? Doing a quick Google research, I don't see this anywhere in, say, F1, INDY, or even IMSA. Now I'm not saying there's no benefit or that you're wrong, I just try to see what the extreme pro level is running because if it's good enough for them its good enough for me.
Another observation for me is that I'm guessing there's actually more material removed in the rotor with the J hook design vs. The thru hole of the drilled rotor. This could be an issue under heavy repeated braking for those who track their cars. But my assumption is that the designers have considered this.

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[0000 RS5]

Good old boy racing uses them. AP Racing supplies NASCAR, of which most are of the j-hook variety. I think they also used to be used in the BTCC, but less sure about that one.


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[Crowlski]

Good old boy racing uses them. AP Racing supplies NASCAR, of which most are of the j-hook variety. I think they also used to be used in the BTCC, but less sure about that one.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine ForumReally?? Interesting...

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[Jetdriver]

https://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/10-myths-nascar-brakes-f1

https://www.reddit.com/r/a:t5_5o8p79/comments/snsf68/2022_nascar_next_gen_cup_series_brake_system/

I guess it depends on the track, maybe (NASCAR)?

[Crowlski]

https://www.brembo.com/en/company/news/10-myths-nascar-brakes-f1

https://www.reddit.com/r/a:t5_5o8p79/comments/snsf68/2022_nascar_next_gen_cup_series_brake_system/

I guess it depends on the track, maybe (NASCAR)?I see the slotted rotors here in the Brembo link. I've had those before. Never had an issue.

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[xeonoex]

Thread is a little sleepy but I wanted to pass along that 034 Motorsport now has front & rear rotor options:

Front:
https://www.034motorsport.com/2-piece-floating-front-brake-rotor-upgrade-kit-for-8y-audi-rs3.html

Rear (upsized from OE, caliper bracket included):
https://www.034motorsport.com/2-piece-floating-rear-brake-rotor-355mm-upgrade-for-mk8-gti-golf-r-and-audi-8y-s3-rs3.html

Thanks! Updated the post. It looks like they added a couple other options as well.

Hopefully these come to FCPEuro so we can take advantage of the replacement policy. That's what I'm really waiting for.

[SlowestS4Here]

Been hunting around without much luck, so hoping you guys may know the answer to what may be a very dumb question.... is there a way to adjust F/R brake bias at all aside from pad change (perhaps in software/VCDS somehow)?

Was on the track with Carbotech XP10s up front and XP8s in rear, and the rear was dancing around a bit when braking hard.
I went with XP10s in front and XP8s in the rear based on what other similar heavier front engine cars like the RS3 do on the track in an effort to actually keep the bias similar to stock, but perhaps that was a mistake and I should've just gone XP10s for all 4....

Side note: these XP10s are impressive across a giant temp range (from below freezing track laps early in the morn to 20+min session in 80+F on a hot track and clearly these 10s were doing nearly all the work).

[S3DUDE]

Been hunting around without much luck, so hoping you guys may know the answer to what may be a very dumb question.... is there a way to adjust F/R brake bias at all aside from pad change (perhaps in software/VCDS somehow)?

Was on the track with Carbotech XP10s up front and XP8s in rear, and the rear was dancing around a bit when braking hard.
I went with XP10s in front and XP8s in the rear based on what other similar heavier front engine cars like the RS3 do on the track in an effort to actually keep the bias similar to stock, but perhaps that was a mistake and I should've just gone XP10s for all 4....

Side note: these XP10s are impressive across a giant temp range (from below freezing track laps early in the morn to 20+min session in 80+F on a hot track and clearly these 10s were doing nearly all the work).

Not a dumb question at all. Hardware wise the front braking is 80% bias already and even if you find a way through VCDS via software you will still have the "hardware" problem which is rear single piston vs big 6 pistons fronts/8 piston fronts. I know Wilwoods sells the distribuiting valving system to compensate the braking bias but I only seen it on older cars at the track with opwners that disable the ABS module. Another thing to consider is the natural weight distribuition of the RS3 being more of a front biased weight.

I use Iweep 2000's pads front and rear on one of the RS3(8Y) and on the other Audi RS3(8Y) I use Iswep 3000 fronts and I sweep 2500 rears and they are a riot at the racetrack, these pads brake so well. I recommended to another member here that also took his RS3(8Y) to a big track (Podium club) reaching 130+mph on the straights and they handled the braking very well. The bite and performance on the Isweep pads will satisfy you, they are awesome, I promise you.

[Heat00]

good to hear about the isweeps... although I went with the 1500's as I'll never been on a track of any sort... but for non track use, the 1500's have been great. have them on my m2 as well. performance on the street is the same as stock and NO DUST. also, at 20k mileage now on them and they are still at 9MM !!! LOL.... will probably never have to buy pads or rotors which is nice too... those OEM brembos eat rotors and I'm sure they ain't cheap on this car lol.... shouldn't ever have to buy rotors on a new car in my opinion... at least if you get the right pads on at a low mileage. my m2 is at 15k now and the isweeps are also at 9mm front and rear! that's crazy longevity.