Night Vision Connector Corroded, $3,586 for Night Vision Wiring Harness?

[schalliol]

My night vision had a system fault, and I'm told that it's because the connector was corroded. All Audi can do is replace the night vision wiring harness (requiring dash removal, etc.) and charge me $3,586!

It seems like a ridiculous design flaw, considering the 90K car has been garaged constantly and isn't even used that much in winter. Has anyone seen this issue or have a solution? Perhaps a new connector could be procured and soldered or something. I really do like the night vision, but it's of course not worth it for that much on a '14 S6.

[Audisthesia]

That pretty insane, that connector has a weather seal on it for God's sake. If you have a prt number I'm sure folks can find you a good price on the part, install is a different story.

[Devil_Inside]

The proper way to repair this would involve replacing the connector. Audi sells pins, pigtails, etc, but you need to find a competent dealer to lookup the components.

Here is a video that shows the process in detail, it is for a Toyota, but that's irrelevant in this case:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vc2ueROigU


Alternatively you need to find a parts car, cut the connector off, solder and heat shrink.

This is actually a very simple repair and I can't believe you were quoted over $3k to replace an entire harness.

[Nully]

☝️ Good luck with finding that mythical competent dealer! I had a very similar issue with the dimming mirror connector being corroded (see thread (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/958675-What-is-this-connector-type)). Spent weeks trying to find the connector type. Eventually gave up and bought a broken mirror just so I could strip the connector.

I wish you better luck than me.

[Botbasher]

The proper way to repair this would involve replacing the connector. Audi sells pins, pigtails, etc, but you need to find a competent dealer to lookup the components.

Here is a video that shows the process in detail, it is for a Toyota, but that's irrelevant in this case:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vc2ueROigU


Alternatively you need to find a parts car, cut the connector off, solder and heat shrink.

This is actually a very simple repair and I can't believe you were quoted over $3k to replace an entire harness.


The problem is not just the plug... you don't corrode only one side of a connector, so if it is bad, you are likely to need to replace both. I looked this up when I got my 14 S6 with NV and found the sensor with lens is just shy of $4.5k. Saying the harness is $3300 isn't out of the realm when including the labor to install. You can find sensors on eSlay for about that same price and replace it BUT these sensors are iTAR restricted and you need to code them to the receiver, so DO NOT BUY ONE without knowing it's not just a simple swap!

Problem is, and I have much experience with bad connectors, is that replacing one side gets you a small reprieve from faults, but since the other side was damaged, you'll be back in the same mess due to it starting all over.

The pic shows a good seal on that side, does the other look similar? Was it difficult to get out or did it simply fall out? Is it deformed so as not to seal fully? It could have been loose from previous service making it contact intermittently. Cycle the plug a couple times and send it. Clear the DTC and wait!

Is their greenish/white fluff in the pin area of the connector? If no, then there is no "corrosion" and it was likely not seated well. Remount it, does it "click" into place? You may need to remove the camera (4 torx) and inspect the plug and receptacle. It should be somewhat difficult to seat as the seal compresses and the lock catches.

If there is honest corrosion, you can get some contact cleaner and a micro brush/Q-Tip and clean both sides as best you can. Then use a small amount of dielectric grease to prevent additional damage and water egress.

In the end though, it may come down to physical part replacements and then you need to determine if it's worth it for a system that is neat to play with but limited in actual assistance. Especially when they replace at $3300 cable and then tell you that you need a $5k sensor because the cable didn't fix it!!

Hope this helps,

KS

280943

The only really hard screw to get at is that 8 o'clock one. It's a straight shot but it is recessed and impossible to see from the top.

[Botbasher]

FYI... The back-up cameras on A5's are known for this same issue. Working great for long stretches and then faulting.

Dealer says new camera and poof! problem fixed.

But what we found is that if you simply plug and unplug the camera a couple times, it'll go for moths to years (especially with a light coating of dielectric grease) before happening again.

Could be a similar issue for you since it is the same basic connector.

Just something to ponder.

KS

[morski]

Dash does not need to come out. Wiring is routed from engine bay to inner wing and into car through A post area and connected to main unit under the front seat. i may have a full NV loom somewhere,,

[schalliol]

Thanks everyone for all the replies! This is really helpful info. I’m surprised the connectors would be so messed up that they couldn’t scrape and fix or something. The dealer said it’s that side that’s the issue, so hopefully the other side would be alright.

If anyone knows how to find the parts, that would be helpful. Maybe I can call my local German-focused independent for help replacing at something not so crazy.

[schalliol]

Hi everyone! Thanks again for connecting in on this. As an update, I took my vehicle to the local Euro-motor independent station, and they basically said they wouldn't touch it. They indicated that replacing the connector would require putting the vehicle in service position, which would require a complete recalibration. I may just have to live with no night vision, but if anyone has more suggestions, I'd love them. Thanks!

[morski]

Just fit a new cable and stop trying to repair the broken one!! Leave the original in situ and fit new!

[schalliol]

Just fit a new cable and stop trying to repair the broken one!! Leave the original in situ and fit new!
Okay, great. Do you happen to have such a loom as potentially indicated? They’re telling me that I have to put it in service position to access, which breaks adaptive cruise calibration, and you have to take a lot of things out to route the cable.

[morski]

If you had read my other post i did mention that i have one. And NO it does not need putting into service position. You want to rely on what the garages are saying to you fine thats your choice. I have fitted NV and 360 cams so know routes etc but never mind

[sepheroth86]

I do not believe that putting the vehicle in service position causes any problems with ACC or NV.

I will have confirmation soon when I put my car back together.

[Akakios]

I do not believe that putting the vehicle in service position causes any problems with ACC or NV.

I will have confirmation soon when I put my car back together.

ACC is supposed to be recalibrated if the front bumper is pulled and replaced iirc.

[Botbasher]

ACC is supposed to be recalibrated if the front bumper is pulled and replaced iirc.

Yes and No...

I had the front off the car myself several times without any issues with my ACC, Lane Assist and NV. Used often and no issues to note (except when the drivers side sensor came off it's mounts due to my assembly!).

Then the dealer did the recall and did all the re-calibrations and such as required by the scope of the work and I noticed absolutely NO differences!

Now, I take great note of where all my mounting points are on the core and crash bars, so I wager that my re-installs are within a millimeter or so of the factory placements. I noticed after the recall work that nothing had been moved or adjusted.

So is it required by Audi... YES. It should be done to assure that all safety systems are working properly.

Does removing the front of the car mean it all goes to hell... not necessarily. If you take care and make your marks and take notes the "odds are ever in your favor" of maintaining their operational status.

It's just one of those things that can be done by an attentive DIY mechanic, but you won't find much info on how to validate it outside of Audi Service.

If you are REPLACING the front, all bets are off and I'd highly suggest getting it all re-calibrated.

Cheers,

KS