Lowering Front Subframe Question (Coolerworx shifter install)

[VMCB5S4]

Good Evening,
First time posting for me. I'm installing a Coolerworx shifter at the moment. I'm following the White Dog Racing install video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmPj9U1y_Wo

Part of this is removing the shifter linkage and permanently removing the stabilizer arm. I was able to remove the stabilizer arm entirely but will have to lower the front subframe in order to fully access/remove the rest of the linkage.

I want to do this properly so is there anyone who can chime in with experience? Is there anyone who has any advice not mentioned in the video above when installing the Coolerworx shifter? I assume I loosen all or rear subframe bolts with enough threads remaining to hold it up. I only have a floor jack I could use to drop things down. If I can just get enough space to remove/reinstall the shifter linkage that'd be perfect.

Thanks in advance,
Vince

[LJS]

Vince-
No experience with the Coolerworx shifter BUT lots of experience in tranny removal with the engine in place...
I would suggest the following-
Undo the drive shaft from the tranny---depending how much winter driving the auto has seen this can be a bit of a pain. Don;t be afraid to beat the CV joint with a BMF hammer (be careful not to abuse the sheet metal cover).
support the tranny and REMOVE the (2) rear sub frame bolts
remove the jack supporting the tranny---you'll have lots of room to work now---the 6mm allen bolt for the stabilizer rod may require some imagination to get leverage to break but it's doable.
you can leave the engine/tranny unsupported for a while-any longer than 4-hours and I would simply put the jack under the tranny and support it.
Have at it---not a real bad job--shade-tree mechanics at its' best!
PS- almost forgot---down tubes need to be undone..If you have aftermarket ones its no big deal. as you can simply undo the v-band clamps at the mid pipes. If you have the OE exhaust you'll need to loosen the sleeve at the rear of the down tube and try to slide it down the pipe so the downtube is free...easier said than done.... be sure to check the wire routing for the O2 sensors.

[VMCB5S4]

Vince-
No experience with the Coolerworx shifter BUT lots of experience in tranny removal with the engine in place...
I would suggest the following-
Undo the drive shaft from the tranny---depending how much winter driving the auto has seen this can be a bit of a pain. Don;t be afraid to beat the CV joint with a BMF hammer (be careful not to abuse the sheet metal cover).
support the tranny and REMOVE the (2) rear sub frame bolts
remove the jack supporting the tranny---you'll have lots of room to work now---the 6mm allen bolt for the stabilizer rod may require some imagination to get leverage to break but it's doable.
you can leave the engine/tranny unsupported for a while-any longer than 4-hours and I would simply put the jack under the tranny and support it.
Have at it---not a real bad job--shade-tree mechanics at its' best!
PS- almost forgot---down tubes need to be undone..If you have aftermarket ones its no big deal. as you can simply undo the v-band clamps at the mid pipes. If you have the OE exhaust you'll need to loosen the sleeve at the rear of the down tube and try to slide it down the pipe so the downtube is free...easier said than done.... be sure to check the wire routing for the O2 sensors.

Awesome. Thank you for that information. I was on the right track with my thinking but definitely wanted to confirm before destroying anything. I'll hopefully get to this Friday and post up results.

[VMCB5S4]

Thought I would post a picture of the packaging job from Coolerworx. Fancy [:D]

266844266845

[Shahek]

Plz post how u like it after install, I’m interested.


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[VMCB5S4]

Plz post how u like it after install, I’m interested.


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Will do. I plan to make some driving videos that I'll throw on YouTube. I've only seen a few and they are more of demonstration on how the shifter works rather than regular/spirited driving. Thinking I may do another thread for the review with a proper title etc.


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[Painstain]

Plz post how u like it after install, I’m interested.


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I love my Coolerworx and wish I had skipped purchasing the JHM short shifter initially. Hell, just the ease of shifter installation makes it so much better than JHM or stock in my eyes (no need to bust out the angle gauge to do a shifter alignment; only one rod from the shifter to transmission). I held off buying the Coolerworx for a while because the shifter sits so high and I read on AZ that it wasn't much different than JHM in shift feel and length, but I actually love how high up the shift knob sits compared to the stock & JHM. And shift length actually feels a little shorter than JHM, but I don't know if it actually is or not (it could just be the height of the shifter causing it to feel shorter because of the leverage or something).

Coolerworx is obviously not a nice as CAE, but it beats out the JHM short shifter by a lot in my eyes. Just FYI: I am still running JHM's solid linkage & cross rod - they're great.

[VMCB5S4]

I love my Coolerworx and wish I had skipped purchasing the JHM short shifter initially. Hell, just the ease of shifter installation makes it so much better than JHM or stock in my eyes (no need to bust out the angle gauge to do a shifter alignment; only one rod from the shifter to transmission). I held off buying the Coolerworx for a while because the shifter sits so high and I read on AZ that it wasn't much different than JHM in shift feel and length, but I actually love how high up the shift knob sits compared to the stock & JHM. And shift length actually feels a little shorter than JHM, but I don't know if it actually is or not (it could just be the height of the shifter causing it to feel shorter because of the leverage or something).

Coolerworx is obviously not a nice as CAE, but it beats out the JHM short shifter by a lot in my eyes. Just FYI: I am still running JHM's solid linkage & cross rod - they're great.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I have a 2000 S4 with the early style setup that I bought about 6 months ago. The previous owner stated the car had the JHM Trio installed with the upgraded cross rod. So far I can verify it has a JHM shifter but from the view of the linkage from underneath looks like the stock setup. We shall see when I remove it in a few days. Something tells me I'll want to go with updated JHM linkage in the event it's stock. Is the JHM linkage that big of a difference in feel?


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[Painstain]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I have a 2000 S4 with the early style setup that I bought about 6 months ago. The previous owner stated the car had the JHM Trio installed with the upgraded cross rod. So far I can verify it has a JHM shifter but from the view of the linkage from underneath looks like the stock setup. We shall see when I remove it in a few days. Something tells me I'll want to go with updated JHM linkage in the event it's stock. Is the JHM linkage that big of a difference in feel?


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Hmm.. JHM's solid linkage of the early & late is the same, so it would be fairly obvious to tell which you have just by looking at the "end piece" and comparing what you have to JHM's website (https://www.jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/linkages/JHM_B6-B7-S4_Linkage_Upgrade_vs_Stock_Assembled.jpg)
That's pretty lame if the previous owner said it has the Trio and it really doesn't[down]

I installed the Trio all at the same time, so I cannot speak to the feeling of each individual piece, butttt..... I installed the Trio and thought, "Hey, this feels greeeeeaaaattttt!!!!" (insert Tony the Tiger picture here). Then I replaced the JHM shifter with the Coolerworx and I was like, "Hey, this is even grrrreeeeeaaaaaaaatttttEEEEEERRRRRR!!!". So I highly recommend JHM's solid linkage and cross rod if yours is still stock. Our cars are 20+ years old at this point, so I'd probably recommend the parts no matter what just based on age & mileage. Full disclosure: I'm a bad influence and enjoy buying/installing modifications.

[VMCB5S4]

Hmm.. JHM's solid linkage of the early & late is the same, so it would be fairly obvious to tell which you have just by looking at the "end piece" and comparing what you have to JHM's website (https://www.jhmotorsports.com/products/pictures/linkages/JHM_B6-B7-S4_Linkage_Upgrade_vs_Stock_Assembled.jpg)
That's pretty lame if the previous owner said it has the Trio and it really doesn't[down]

I installed the Trio all at the same time, so I cannot speak to the feeling of each individual piece, butttt..... I installed the Trio and thought, "Hey, this feels greeeeeaaaattttt!!!!" (insert Tony the Tiger picture here). Then I replaced the JHM shifter with the Coolerworx and I was like, "Hey, this is even grrrreeeeeaaaaaaaatttttEEEEEERRRRRR!!!". So I highly recommend JHM's solid linkage and cross rod if yours is still stock. Our cars are 20+ years old at this point, so I'd probably recommend the parts no matter what just based on age & mileage. Full disclosure: I'm a bad influence and enjoy buying/installing modifications.

Haha I'm the same way and of course I'm all about the "while I'm in there" mods. Yeaa the previous owner lied about many of the items you can't see without either jacking the car up or removing things. Part of the process unfortunately. I do have one question though in preparation for install. Which hole do I use for the Coolerworx shifter base in the photo below?

266974


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[VMCB5S4]

I'm assuming I would use the middle hole replicating stock position/throw since the coolerworx was meant to be used with stock components. if I use the bottom hole maybe the shifts will be extremely short :-) or, of course, not work at all which would be my luck.


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[Painstain]

I'm assuming I would use the middle hole replicating stock position/throw since the coolerworx was meant to be used with stock components. if I use the bottom hole maybe the shifts will be extremely short :-) or, of course, not work at all which would be my luck.


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Lol. Yeah, I think using the middle hole would be safest. I wanted to sell my JHM short shifter so I purchased an OEM "selector fork" from eBay (PN: 8D0 711 159 B) to use with the CW.

[VMCB5S4]

Lol. Yeah, I think using the middle hole would be safest. I wanted to sell my JHM short shifter so I purchased an OEM "selector fork" from eBay (PN: 8D0 711 159 B) to use with the CW.

Turns out I can't use the JHM selector fork. Not enough room for adjustment and the angle is heavily off. When I center the coolerworx shifter, neutral is positioned like first gear. Put up a wanted ad for the stock selector fork. Hopefully someone reaches out. Everything else is back in the car and this is the final part I'll need to finish the job. Your technique for lowering the subframe worked very well and provided juuuuust enough room for me to sneak the linkage out and back in. Thank you again for your help on that one!


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[VMCB5S4]

Update: I started a new thread discussing the Coolerworx shifter install here:

Coolerworx Shifter Install Issues
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=953606


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