07K Turbo swap any takers??

[EuroxS4]

Curious if anyone is still contemplating this swap. I am close to finishing up my big turbo 1.8T build hopefully it will be up and running before this winter. However I sold the two 2.7T engines I had and picked up a early 07K with a forged crank for pennies literally. Already have engine mount brackets ordered and oil filter block on order as well. Now its gonna come down to getting a intake manifold made, oil pan, valve cover and exhaust manifold. I also ordered a 2.5 cylinder beetle harness as the early 2006-2010 beetle ran me7.1.1 management and since i purchased pnp standalone for me7.5 all I need to do is swap 1 pin and Ill be able to utilize the same standalone ecu for the 5 cylinder. I would like to make this more of a information thread than a build thread as Im not much for build threads. I just don't have the time as it is. I will keep you guys updated. I would like to mention the following for those that are potentially interested in this swap.

For a budget build you want a 2005-2006 5 cylinder. Anything that has torx T30 securing the lower oil pan will have a forged crank.
Only 07K105101E cranks are forged,only exception to this rule is the $1500 TTRS crank.
Early 07K suffered from some timing issues because of the long service intervals. If you plan on building make sure you use good quality synthetic oil and change it every 5k miles max. That being said timing chain components cannot be swapped from later model year vehicles as the timing gear on the crank is different. There is also not way to swap that gear.

1.8T flywheels are the same bolt pattern as the 07K.

1.8T starter can be used but needs to be trimmed to fit as well as the lower timing cover.

01E transmission can be used but bell housing needs to be cut/trimmed because of the hump for the vacuum pump. Vacuum pump needs to be deleted as wel..

Your gonna need engine mounting brackets made or purchased.

Oil filter block to use for drivers side engine mount bracket is the only option.
For hydralic power steering I think the best approach is a electrci power steering pump made by TRW thats used in europe in some vw and gm cars.

Height wise the engine will fit but useing a billet valve cover wont hurt especially if running a catchcan.

Length wise theres a difference of about 4 inches. I think pulling the radiator fans and using pusher fans from other side should give you the room without modifying the rad support.
I think stock oil pan with modified subframe is the best and cheapest option.

Exhaust and intake manifolds if going turbo its your best bet for make good power.

06-10 2.5 beetle engine harness to make one hybrid harness using the stock 1.8T harness. Ideally you want to use the short ecu connector with the associated wiring and modify the pin out if needed. Having said that you will still need to use the long ecu connector with wiring from the 1.8T engine harness. Doing it this way ill take some work but will require the least amount of modification to engine harness.

Hope this helps demystify some of the things people have heard about this engine. FYI the stock forged crank should will handle more power than a 1.8T engine. I have yet to hear anyone snapping a crank.

[Gunnarrrrr]

He's really doing it 😳

[EuroxS4]

Yes it will be a process. But looking that way.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200809/8f169c11c8b2df923297e24a23f19670.jpg
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[Spike00513]

Well Done

[EuroxS4]

Waiting on some parts. Will post updates once more is done on the engine.


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[EuroxS4]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200815/68f9bba025ad8195dfe03efab5af4c6b.jpg
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Received and mounted early beetle accessory bracket. Everything looks good and it bolts up. Still waiting on alternator and power steering pump. Hoping to use as much of the original setup as possible. Also got the wiring harness in. Will be digging into that shortly and comparing side by side as well as what I need from the stock harness.


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[Gosser]

I walk by these motors all day long in the junk yards, I was always curious. Definitely following. There are intakes, exhaust manifolds and billet valve covers out there with longitudinal mounting in mind, so definitely doable.

[Tahoe3.0]

Well damn. Looking forward to this one.

[EuroxS4]

I walk by these motors all day long in the junk yards, I was always curious. Definitely following. There are intakes, exhaust manifolds and billet valve covers out there with longitudinal mounting in mind, so definitely doable.

Yes doable!! I already have the engine brackets on order. Intake manifold I think I will go the custom one off route. This swap is just becoming popular now into porsche 944 and various other vehicles as well. In NA form its nothing exciting but forced induction the numbers are pretty impressive. This is the route I will be going. Stay tuned I will update once more parts arrive. Currently going through the engine harness. Will be running standalone. Just easier that way. Also wil be drawing up a few parts I need in fusion 360.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Very interested in seeing the progress [up] I can't even imagine how hard my neck would break seeing a B6 go by and hearing a 5 cylinder in it lol

I know there is a guy on youtube also doing the same swap into a B6...

[EuroxS4]

Very interested in seeing the progress [up] I can't even imagine how hard my neck would break seeing a B6 go by and hearing a 5 cylinder in it lol

I know there is a guy on youtube also doing the same swap into a B6...

yes the 5 cylinders do sound good!!!

[nefkntym]

Looking forward to seeing the progress of this. I thought about it years ago, but I decided against it.

[EuroxS4]

Looking forward to seeing the progress of this. I thought about it years ago, but I decided against it.

I was a skeptic myself mostly because of the amount of custom parts and costs needed just to fit the engine longitudinally into these cars. But recently mounting brackets became available as well as some more information on the the swap in particular. Some smaller parts will be designed by me as I now have a 3d printer to prototype some of the smaller pieces that will be on the engine. The goal is to use as much of oem parts as possible as space allows. Long story short I think there is enough data available as far as potential with this engine to have a go at building a 6-700+whp budget engine with some goodies. That being said alot of performance parts I already have for the big turbo 1.8T engine will swap over to this 5 cylinder engine. Ideally I only need to go through the whole engine,purchase fasteners and new bearings and timing chain components and perform some necessary upgrades. But the engine management is already checked off, as is the flywheel and clutch setup as well as the starter and transmission,turbo and intercooler. This leaves accessories which will be all stock vw beetle accessories as they had a hydralic power steering pump, custom oil pan, custom exhaust manifold and custom intake and plenum and injectors, Will most likely be using a 80 or 85mm throttle body.

[Spike00513]

Did you know

VW Teramont in Chinese market
has 2.5L VR6 turbo stock

I wonder what those engines go for

https://www.carnewschina.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/volkswagen-teramont-china-8a.jpg

[EuroxS4]

Did you know

VW Teramont in Chinese market
has 2.5L VR6 turbo stock

I wonder what those engines go for

https://www.carnewschina.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/volkswagen-teramont-china-8a.jpg

Well aware of that engine being in the VW parts bin. VRT has been done before. VW has a 3.0l Turbo vr6 they have yet bring to the market. Its supposed to come in the new Arteon R. Wether that happens well see. Numerous sources tell me yes. However FSI injection I am not a big fan of. More of a KISS approach is better if you ask me. Engine room is already a premium in our cars. That being said 5 cylinder engines have a special unique sound. That being said I love Vr's as well but 12v vr sound better than 24v in my opinion,5 cylinder 20v sound like pure sex when done right.

[EuroxS4]

Waiting for some parts to arrive to test fit. Started designing the rear coolant flange. Still not finished,but will be soon. Then ready to 3d print and test. Should be a nice piece to use with the factory heater core hoses.

192781

[JoshDub]

I'll go ahead and subscribe to this. If anyone is finally going to get this done, it'll be you. The b6 is begging for a 5pot

[EuroxS4]

I'll go ahead and subscribe to this. If anyone is finally going to get this done, it'll be you. The b6 is begging for a 5pot192829

Coolant flange is coming along. I still need to figure out what im gonna do with the end and if Im gonna curve it or not. Then I will print and tweak as needed. The next thing to address is gonna be the piping for the water pump. Looks like im gonna have to design another block possibly to fit the map controller thermostat. We will see. I already have a 07K intake manifold flange drawn up and some other goodies I was working on for a friend over seas we will see if I could use any of it. Stay tuned for the updates. Also currently looking for rods. Would like to stay with 21mm pins or bigger to be able to take the power. Time will tell what the options are.

[Spike00513]

Well aware of that engine being in the VW parts bin. VRT has been done before. VW has a 3.0l Turbo vr6 they have yet bring to the market. Its supposed to come in the new Arteon R. Wether that happens well see. Numerous sources tell me yes. However FSI injection I am not a big fan of. More of a KISS approach is better if you ask me. Engine room is already a premium in our cars. That being said 5 cylinder engines have a special unique sound. That being said I love Vr's as well but 12v vr sound better than 24v in my opinion,5 cylinder 20v sound like pure sex when done right.

B5 5.2L V10 [o_o]

https://scontent.fapa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/p720x720/118309495_2578055765842851_1799050856905618942_o.j pg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_sid=07e735&_nc_ohc=XfDMPlUSMzsAX8B4qvG&_nc_ht=scontent.fapa1-2.fna&_nc_tp=6&oh=685daca5073479711f5291026837f2df&oe=5F6233DD

[EuroxS4]

Definitely cool as well. How ever no room to do anything and limited to 450hp I’m shooting for more than that. But nice to know others are still swapping engines into these older cars. Personally I feel like the B6 were the last generation that we’re still made to last but I’d buy a b5 avant if one came my way as well.


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[Kevin C]

Waiting for some parts to arrive to test fit. Started designing the rear coolant flange. Still not finished,but will be soon. Then ready to 3d print and test. Should be a nice piece to use with the factory heater core hoses.

192781

Once you get past your fit check parts do you know what process/ materials your going to use for your functional parts?

[EuroxS4]

Once you get past your fit check parts do you know what process/ materials your going to use for your functional parts?

Yes I do. Most likely going with aluminum. I have a friend that might be able to do these on his 5axis cnc mill however I am also looking at powder bed metal printing as well. This part could also be cast. I havent decided yet but those are my only options. First need to print in plastic to check fitment make sure it all correct. As of right now I was contemplating using the factory map controller thermostat but space is a premium with this enigne as it was never designed to be mounted longitudinally. So as of right now I am not sure if the factory thermostat will even be an option. It would be nice however I am still waiting for the power steering pump,alternator and ac compressor so I can see if there is sufficient room to try and cram the factory tstat somewhere under the intake.

[Kevin C]

Yes I do. Most likely going with aluminum. I have a friend that might be able to do these on his 5axis cnc mill however I am also looking at powder bed metal printing as well. This part could also be cast. I haven't decided yet but those are my only options. First need to print in plastic to check fitment make sure it all correct/

For work we have gone with low cost FDM printed parts for fit checks and functional test and transitioned to 3D printed metal where heat requirements justified it. FDM printing was a great way to verify before spending a bunch on the final part. The 3D metal ducts we made were pretty large and the cost to print was staggering ($5000 a set). I'm kind of curious what smaller parts cost to have done. That was a project from two years ago so I'm sure the pricing has come down, the end parts were amazing. A friend with a CNC is a really good option. At work we are seeing a lot of interest in lasers for 3D metal, that market seems to be really taking off. I'm really curious to see current costs info on parts like the T stat housing. Obviously if you 3D metal print you can design parts that cant be made by machining. Nice for optimizing flow.

[Steve Bassen]

Yes I do. Most likely going with aluminum. I have a friend that might be able to do these on his 5axis cnc mill however I am also looking at powder bed metal printing as well. This part could also be cast. I havent decided yet but those are my only options. First need to print in plastic to check fitment make sure it all correct. As of right now I was contemplating using the factory map controller thermostat but space is a premium with this enigne as it was never designed to be mounted longitudinally. So as of right now I am not sure if the factory thermostat will even be an option. It would be nice however I am still waiting for the power steering pump,alternator and ac compressor so I can see if there is sufficient room to try and cram the factory tstat somewhere under the intake.

If it's anything like the 1.8T map controlled thermostat then hopefully finding an off the shelf conventional one to put in its place and then coding it out in the ME7 should be fairly straightforward. I found the maps for the target/actual temps and flattened them and coded out the error for having the electric thermostat unhooked for the 518AF back when I was gearing up to do my 1.8T build years ago with a conventional thermostat (using B5.5 1.8T water pipe and housing).

[EuroxS4]

If it's anything like the 1.8T map controlled thermostat then hopefully finding an off the shelf conventional one to put in its place and then coding it out in the ME7 should be fairly straightforward. I found the maps for the target/actual temps and flattened them and coded out the error for having the electric thermostat unhooked for the 518AF back when I was gearing up to do my 1.8T build years ago with a conventional thermostat (using B5.5 1.8T water pipe and housing).

Yes b6 a4 1.8T have a map controlled tstat. Right now it doesn’t look like the room is there. I think the map controlled Tstats over complicate the system without any real benefit. I think a regular tstat is the way to go.


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[EuroxS4]

For work we have gone with low cost FDM printed parts for fit checks and functional test and transitioned to 3D printed metal where heat requirements justified it. FDM printing was a great way to verify before spending a bunch on the final part. The 3D metal ducts we made were pretty large and the cost to print was staggering ($5000 a set). I'm kind of curious what smaller parts cost to have done. That was a project from two years ago so I'm sure the pricing has come down, the end parts were amazing. A friend with a CNC is a really good option. At work we are seeing a lot of interest in lasers for 3D metal, that market seems to be really taking off. I'm really curious to see current costs info on parts like the T stat housing. Obviously if you 3D metal print you can design parts that cant be made by machining. Nice for optimizing flow.

Yes powder bed 3D metal print uses laser to make the part. This technology is booming right now. It open lots of capabilities that weren’t available before. I think 5axis cnc in my case may be the best option however time will tell. I finished the flange yesterday. Not sure if I’m gonna print the whole flange. I may just print the connections ends to make sure they all fit as needed. Although even a plastic printed part would be good for pressure testing and making sure not leaks are present. I will keep you guys posted. Waiting on some accessories should have them this week. I already have a intake manifold flange drawn up as well as a exhaust flange. A friend of mine also sent me a 3D model of a Lamborghini flange from the 5.2 v10. We’ll see.


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[Steve Bassen]

Yes b6 a4 1.8T have a map controlled tstat. Right now it doesn’t look like the room is there. I think the map controlled Tstats over complicate the system without any real benefit. I think a regular tstat is the way to go.


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Yeah they're just for emissions so they can run the motor hotter during cruise and part throttle, pointless for a performance application.

[EuroxS4]

Yeah they're just for emissions so they can run the motor hotter during cruise and part throttle, pointless for a performance application.

Wouldn’t be surprised if the map for the tstat and the way it’s calibrated I regards to temperature is the main cause behind Coscast heads cracking #2 combustion chamber faces.


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[Steve Bassen]

Wouldn’t be surprised if the map for the tstat and the way it’s calibrated I regards to temperature is the main cause behind Coscast heads cracking #2 combustion chamber faces.


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Yeah I'm 100% convinced of that.

[MetalMan]

AWM heads can crack on B5s, too... don't necessarily need a mapped T-stat to make it happen either! (My old '01.5 head developed a crack between cooling jacket & valve seat, that would only make itself known when under high load and the engine was in use 30+ minutes)

[EuroxS4]

AWM heads can crack on B5s, too... don't necessarily need a mapped T-stat to make it happen either! (My old '01.5 head developed a crack between cooling jacket & valve seat, that would only make itself known when under high load and the engine was in use 30+ minutes)

I havent seen one on a B5 unless it was badly overheated. Then again most of the ones I've seen were AEB engine codes which didnt suffer from this issue.

*Update* Engine mount brackets finally got cut, still need to get formed and welded. Pics coming soon I hope. I will try to update as much as I can. Kinda hard juggling home life,work,a business and personal projects at home. Stay tuned.

[Dr.B6Banter]

I havent seen one on a B5 unless it was badly overheated. Then again most of the ones I've seen were AEB engine codes which didnt suffer from this issue.

*Update* Engine mount brackets finally got cut, still need to get formed and welded. Pics coming soon I hope. I will try to update as much as I can. Kinda hard juggling home life,work,a business and personal projects at home. Stay tuned.

We'll be here! Always neat seeing crazy stuff still happening on this aging platform, and definitely gives me the motivation to finish the odds and ends on my B6.

[EuroxS4]

Yeah I have 3 b6's currently. I think I may chop the front end from one to use as mock up while I finish other projects.

[EuroxS4]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201103/5c583d2a7acc3f589f944583d47d04bd.jpg
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I’ll just leave this here for now. I’ll write more I. During the day when I have time guys.


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[Dr.B6Banter]

Nice fab work! I also notice that little 3d printed price. It's great for custom applications like this to check fitment before you make the part out of metal.

[EuroxS4]

3D printed part is a template used to cut the bell housing on a 01E transmsision so it clears the rear 07K timing cover.The parts finally arrived from canada, the brackets and 3d printed template are made by race3 and oil fitler block is from issam or iabed industries. Iabed also now has a oil pan but with low cost volume parts its alot of money. Roughly 2 grand for oil pan and pickup tube. I will be cutting the stock pan and possibly casting my own alloy pan. Currently this project is on hold, I just got the parts in so I figured i'd update it. I will update as I progress. Stay tuned!!!

[avant1987]

Excited for additional updates and progress!

[EuroxS4]

Progress Is slow currently as other thing have priority. But I am selling alot of my big turbo 1.8T parts in order to get things rolling on this project more quickly.

[Seerlah]

Out of curiosity, what do you plan on doing with your 1.8T build? I assume both these motors are for the same car?

[Leafy1]

You have to make the pan a front sump right? I wish they made the upper pan steel like the lower pan.

Do those mount brackets use factory mounts?

[EuroxS4]

You have to make the pan a front sump right? I wish they made the upper pan steel like the lower pan.

Do those mount brackets use factory mounts?

Yes those bracket use factory locations and you can used the stock engine mounts. I have stern engine mounts I will be using. As far as the pan goes I am in the process of 3d printing the pan in sections to see what it needs to looks like. Chances are I will have a 3d model to cast a alloy pan or possibly stamp a steel one but at this time I think cast alloy is the best option.

[EuroxS4]

Out of curiosity, what do you plan on doing with your 1.8T build? I assume both these motors are for the same car?

The 1.8T build is being parted out. I have already sold the AEB head with some goodies. I will be holding onto the custom flywheel as it fits the 07K,standalone,turbo and intercooler, and precision turbo waste gate and dv. Alot of the other stuff is up for grabs. I am sellin the following:

Adjustable cam gear
Press fit crank gear with arp bolt and shim
Fluid dampnr
I have aeb pistons and scat rods in the 06A block but chances are i will part it all out.
Id1000 injectors
AEB runners with custom intake manifold with 75mm throttle body
I have alot of odds and ends. Anything I sell the money will be used to fund the 07K I already have a list of stuff I need to get like 1300x injectors at least, custom exhuast manifold, and looking at a gallardo lower intake runner to fabricate a suitable intake manifold.

[Gunnarrrrr]

The 1.8T build is being parted out. I have already sold the AEB head with some goodies. I will be holding onto the custom flywheel as it fits the 07K,standalone,turbo and intercooler, and precision turbo waste gate and dv. Alot of the other stuff is up for grabs. I am sellin the following:

Adjustable cam gear
Press fit crank gear with arp bolt and shim
Fluid dampnr
I have aeb pistons and scat rods in the 06A block but chances are i will part it all out.
Id1000 injectors
AEB runners with custom intake manifold with 75mm throttle body
I have alot of odds and ends. Anything I sell the money will be used to fund the 07K I already have a list of stuff I need to get like 1300x injectors at least, custom exhuast manifold, and looking at a gallardo lower intake runner to fabricate a suitable intake manifold.

Interested in the injectors, I've outgrown my 550's.

Probably interested in the manifold as well, I run an AEB head but I'm currently running a small port manifold with the phenolic spacer from 034
I'd love to run an AEB mani without having to get new IC piping.

Pics of the manifold? I'm sure I've seen it but refresh my memory

This one?


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Got it back from powder coating !! Looks better than I thought. I will need to make a bracket for coolant pipe. But I’m very happy with it!! Can’t wait to get it all together and up and running.


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[Leafy1]

Anything I sell the money will be used to fund the 07K I already have a list of stuff I need to get like 1300x injectors at least, custom exhuast manifold, and looking at a gallardo lower intake runner to fabricate a suitable intake manifold.

Anything against the boost brothers intake manifold? At $800 it make justifying the effort to fab your own hard to justify, unless theres something horribly wrong with it.

[Biged243]

By any chance have you read through Mec’s attempt On this in the B7 section? Then again it was like 4 or so years ago. It would be awesome to do. Are you going to be hacking the false firewall or custom doing the radiator area?

[EuroxS4]

Thanks for the reply guys. Boost brothers manifold is suited more for the 944 IIRC unless I am wrong. It looks like the intake comes out way too far past the end of the head and with a throttle body it looks like it would be sitting near the radiator or at the headlight so its less than ideal. Great for cars that have their engines sitting way back behind the front axle. Also I believe they are using a accessory bracket without the provision for a power steering pump. I have one with a hydraulic power steering pump. So that intake might not clear that portion of the bracket and pump. Also in regards to the radiator fans and shroud. The plan is to remove fans and shroud and mount pusher fans on the other side. It looks like there should be minimal room to spare but It should be dooable as the overall length is roughly 4 inches longer than the standard 1.8T.

This is the main reason that I am leaning towards a one of intake manifold using gallardo lower runners with custom plenum also I have a 80mm hemi throttle body I am planning on using that should be plug n play connection wise.

There already is a b7 a4 with this swap in canada iirc. However radiator is relocated into the trunk and looks to be a full out track car. This for me will be more of a street car hopefully with 900whp or maybe a tad more.

Not planning on removing the false firewell at this time. Would like to keep it as stock as possible chassis wise. I need to finish a few things and I will do doing a mock up into a parts car that I have. I may just cut the front clip to use as mock up as well.

[EuroxS4]

Interested in the injectors, I've outgrown my 550's.

Probably interested in the manifold as well, I run an AEB head but I'm currently running a small port manifold with the phenolic spacer from 034
I'd love to run an AEB mani without having to get new IC piping.

Pics of the manifold? I'm sure I've seen it but refresh my memory

This one?

Yes thats the one. I have alot of stuff for sale. From the 1.8T very little stuff is staying.

[Leafy1]

I wonder how much shorter the b6/7 engine bay is compared to my C5. I measured my wife's rabbit 2.5 to be 18.5" from bell housing surface to the extent of the crank pulley and I measured my allroad to be 18.5 from the been hosing to like the peak of the passenger side electric fan. So that fan might need to get swapped to a slim fan to match my mechanical fan delete fan.

I think you're right on the boost brothers intake. Were you going to make yours a center inlet? Maybe on the bottom since there's going to be a big empty space below the manifold. Another option that's way less effort and expense is to just use the factory intake manifold but bolt a u-bend where the throttle body goes since you should have about 6" to the fake firewall and bolt the throttle body to that. A 3" aluminum mandrel might be a touch too long but a 3" long radius butt weld pipe in fitting would be perfect. And you'd get more plenum volume as a by product, it shouldn't hold you back on stock bottom end power levels.

[EuroxS4]

Also an option,but at this point leaning towards a gallardo lower and in the process of designing a flange with trumpets in fusion360 and then making a plenum to match to use hemi 80mm throttle body. I will post some previews once some more progress is made.

[Leafy1]

Certainly will be better than a stock one. And great to flex on having Lambo parts.

[EuroxS4]

Yeah that is the only option although the v10 r8 might be a good fit also. I would have to check on that. Its an idea I and throwing around. Worst case scenario it will need to be built from scratch. Flange and all. I alreayd have a stock plastic 2.5 na manifold modeled. I may edit and have it milled out of alloy or cast. Time will tell.

[Leafy1]

It certainly looks like the Lambo lower manifold would fit. And $400 to avoid having to find an intake manifold flange, make the annoying shallow angle drill for the injector bungs. I mean just adding up the cost is fabbing that part of a manifold you're paying like $150 to avoid the most annoying part of intake manifold fab.

[EuroxS4]

Yeah Its up in the air i am still waiting for a email from a friend in germany. He said he might have something for me. So goodies from this particular friends are always awesome. Time will tell.

[EuroxS4]

So this thread has been dormant for sometime. I will say this all of my 1.8T stuff is for sale. To be honest a good portion is already sold.I still have a fluid dampnr for sale and the intake manifold as well along with throttle body for it and some bits and pieces like the stock oil filter housing block a brand new one in fact. So alot of the parts that were sold are helping me fund this next project. Things are starting to move along. Currently waiting on part to arrive to get into the 07K bottom end.

[EuroxS4]

Some pieces that just came in. I couldn’t use a Gallardo lower runner as it doesn’t have injector provision as that’s a gdi engine.So a custom one off lower intake runner had to be made along with a giant fuel rail. Next is gonna be modification of the accessory bracket. Stay tuned.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210217/e32eebfefe07a67ec36c1ca1d9acf19d.jpg
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[EuroxS4]

Some goodies came in the e build. I am still waiting on a ttrs fluid dampnr the factory one. As this is a budget build. The next step is gonna be selecting pistons. Most likely going with some JE forged units time will tell. I still need to disassemble the block and get it sent out of machine shop so we can determine wether it need to be bored over or not. Hoping it’s just a gone job as I would prefer to stick to the stock bore. Most likely going to go with 9.5:1 or 9.0:1 Cr for pump gas and. Probably 30 pounds of boost I don’t see the need for more. However block will be built expecting to make 750chp or possibly more. Stay tuned. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210223/002628f8e5407e7c29f7e43643189e81.jpg
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[Gin+]

Looks like progress to me.[up]

[EuroxS4]

Yep Next is determining the best CR for pump gas and 30psi of boost. This engine is not DI it still has MPI so I think 8.75:1 or even 8.5:1 will be a safe bet. Still working all that out at this point. Suggestions are welcome. Please note engine is being built for pump gas as e85 is not readily available by me.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Yeah, that's a lot of boost to be running on pump gas without DI. Water meth could give you some buffer room with your CR choice. Not sure if you already planned on using it or not.

[Gin+]

For the sake of conversation the old 2.2L i5 turbo engines had 9.3:1 compression.

[EuroxS4]

For the sake of conversation the old 2.2L i5 turbo engines had 9.3:1 compression.

Yes but older 2.2 werent running 30psi of boost from the factory. They share literally nothing in common with the new 5 cylinder. I'm not saying your wrong but i supposed it is possible depending on what fuel your using. Being I want to stick to pump gas I think 9:1 or lower will be a safe buffer. Also a engine with lower compression and more boost will always make more power than a balanced one with higher compression. Only downside being drivability and lag you dont want it to fall on its face out of boost but then again there is anti lag just the legality of using it in a street car is the issue lol.

[Seerlah]

FWIW I run 25psi on 93 octane on a CT2 5152 Triplex, AEB 9.5:1 pistons and we were tuning for 30psi on pump on ME7 Eurodyne Suite. I got scared at 25psi because my crank gear was not dowel pinned (did not want to shear keyway), so we stopped there. I now run the IE press fit gear and will ask my tuner to tune for more boost later. I want to do an E85 and higher 93 octane tune at the same time (not sure if I will need to upgrade my injectors from 630cc to 870cc or similar), so I held off till car is ready to get tuned for both fuels at the same time.

[EuroxS4]

FWIW I run 25psi on 93 octane on a CT2 5152 Triplex, AEB 9.5:1 pistons and we were tuning for 30psi on pump on ME7 Eurodyne Suite. I got scared at 25psi because my crank gear was not dowel pinned (did not want to shear keyway), so we stopped there. I now run the IE press fit gear and will ask my tuner to tune for more boost later. I want to do an E85 and higher 93 octane tune at the same time (not sure if I will need to upgrade my injectors from 630cc to 870cc or similar), so I held off till car is ready to get tuned for both fuels at the same time.

Are you using factory pistons?? Plan is to use pump gas 93 as e85 is not readily available by me also with e85 you need bigger injectors and more fuel to get to the power levels I want. Overall E85 is great because its 108 octane and you have virtually no knock. The downside is that its not cheap by me. Also E85 has less energy content than regular gasoline . So 1.5 gallons of E85 has the same energy content as 1 gallon of gasoline. Better fuel but your gonna go through more of it,if its strictly a track car not a big deal if its a street/track car that changes things. The value of 9.5:1 is actually closer to 9:1 as the specs the factory provides is normally just a nominal value. All the AEB pistons I have measured always turned out to be closer or in between 9-9.3:1. I am contemplating going with 9:1 CR and possibly using a TTRS head gasket that will drop the CR top 8.75:1 if needed for the boost. Currently in touch with diamond racing for some custom pistons. I still need to give them measurements as to what I need. TTRS head gasket is thicker than the standard NA 2.5 head gasket. Right now the next step is disassembly of the engine as well as fine tuning the intake manifold flange and accessory bracket. Note you cannot use the power steering pump unless you relocate it to where the ac compressor sits. Unless your going with a custom intake manifold but even then plenum size and angle will be affected. In my case I would like to keep the ac compressor for now. I will be installing a electric power steering pump in this car.

[Seerlah]

Yes, factory OEM pistons.

[Wet0willy01]

Yes, factory OEM pistons.

Same

[EuroxS4]

Ill take that into consideration. It looks like a happy medium is somewhere around 9.3:1. However I feel like I need to get closer to 9:1 to have some head room.

[EuroxS4]

Not much of an update. Other than some useful information at this point. So Based of the fact I will be using ignitron standalone ecu it comes down the engine wiring harness. The best way to accomplish this with this particular standalone is to repin the short connector of the ecu/engine harness and keep the long connector as it is. The goal is to use all the factory components with some minor tweaks for the turbo setup.

[EuroxS4]

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Drew up a flange for the intake runner as there is currently nothing available for b6/b7 swaps. May need to be redesigned a bit. But the idea is to use a skunk2 center feed plenum. Note this is just for mock up and fitment now and will be made out of alloy. Still a few things to figure out then will hopefully move onto designing exhaust manifold. Also picked up a flex fuel sensor and will be looking into possibly running e45/e50. Rumor has it similar power levels can be had with same knock resistance on e45/e50 as e85 while compromising on injector size and fuel system changes. This will be later down the road but I will be looking into this after the engine is setup for 93 octane. Still a long way to go, I will try to post updates when I have time.


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[TheKeyStone]

FOLLOWING, gonna start collecting parts for an 07k swap in my B7 S4. I swapped a 2.7 into it and just kinda over it.

Any interest of selling a intake manifold once you fully develop one and can get it made?

I work at an Audi dealer so I don’t really have to much time to fabricate anymore.

[EuroxS4]

FOLLOWING, gonna start collecting parts for an 07k swap in my B7 S4. I swapped a 2.7 into it and just kinda over it.

Any interest of selling a intake manifold once you fully develop one and can get it made?

I work at an Audi dealer so I don’t really have to much time to fabricate anymore.

I will consider that once I have a alloy one made and ready to be test fitted. My runners are custom so I may need to redesign or scale another one up to use possibly with gallardo runners as it seems a lot of people are going that route in term of off the shelf runners. I still need to make a few revisions to this one. Stay tuned for the updates. I should have a center feed skunk2 plenum here shortly.

[EuroxS4]

Small update.I had some reliefs cut into the runners to make the runner finally sit flush against the head and a radius on the corners just for cosmetics. However I am running into some fitment issues in regards to the transition plenum I designed hitting cam sensor connector I will have to look if another can be used. Also note fuel injectors and fuel rail is gonna be a tight fit. I will post some pictures later. Progress is slow as I have a million other things going on. Also note skunk2 center feed plenum is backordered. I should see it around the end of July. In the meantime I will be working on getting other things sorted like electric power steering pump install/implementation and possibly looking at running a AC compressor because who doesnt want AC in their car.

Also in regard to the oil pan, I will be using the stock oil pan and the subframe will be modified. This is the best possible route on a budget at this time. There is a oil pan available but its not cheap and the custom made pan does not provide any additional rigidity vs the stock pan. The stock upper pan is alloy so its not the strongest material but right now I feel like that is better than nothing. Stock subframe will be notched for clearance and welded to put strength back into it.

[Jam'sAudiFix]

sick thread! been following for a while. Definitely in for the skunk2 center feed intake. only thing holding me back from the swap-

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[EuroxS4]

Thanks a lot more to come. Currently waiting for some parts to arrive so I can do some more test fitting. I have a phenolic spacer from lps fab coming and a exhaust manifold flange and some fuel rail stock as I need to redo the fuel rail a little bit as space is very limited. Gonna be a tight fit.


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[EuroxS4]

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Slowly but surely progress is being made. That being said everything is gonna be a very tight fit. I think the fuel rail size and fittings may be overkill and are causing some fitment issues with the fuel rail. Also note I had to buy a phenolic spacer to get more clearance for the injectors but either way going to be tight. Going to be tricky but I’m sure I’ll have it sorted within the next couple of weeks. Also the plenum adapter will need some revisions or possibly a small redesign. It also look like I’ll need to use a rs3 or ttrs cam position sensor for clearance. The accessory bracket is a non power steering pump one and still had to be cut to clear the manifold. The solution to that is going to be a off the shelf unit from vw. An electric servo Pump assembly made by TRW for VAG In Europe. I feel this is the best solution right now but that may change. As I plan to keep AC I this car as well. Still a few things to figure out. I also ordered a exhaust flange for the exhaust so that will be next gathering all the parts for that. Still on the hunt for pistons. Looking at 9:1 CR pistons or possibly 8.75:1 to have a buffer. Still planning on 30 pounds of boost. Also looking for valves for the head, springs and titanium retainers. Cams are going to be stock there is currently no money in the budget for cams nor do I think I’ll need them for my goals. Stand-alone ecu is here. I will be looking at the wiring when. I have a moment. It will be a hybrid harness everything inside the cabin will remain stock with some minor exceptions. Stay tuned for more updates as parts arrive and progress is made.


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[EuroxS4]

Some JE Forged pistons are on the way 9.5:1 CR 144x22mm wrist pin, 83mm bore. Bottom end Is gonna get ARP hardware throughout. Block is gonna get hot tanked,bored and honed. All new bearings as well. Stay tuned!!

[BumblebVR6]

Some JE Forged pistons are on the way 9.5:1 CR 144x22mm wrist pin, 83mm bore. Bottom end Is gonna get ARP hardware throughout. Block is gonna get hot tanked,bored and honed. All new bearings as well. Stay tuned!!

Sweet!

[EuroxS4]

Small update I should have the pistons tomorrow. When I get a chance I'll post some pics of parts and possible tear down of the engine as I get it ready for the machine shop.

[EuroxS4]

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Some more goodies have arrived. Engine will hopefully go the machine shop sometime within the next 2 weeks.


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[Gin+]

Sick[drive]

[Gosser]

Nice work! are you 3d printing yourself? Where did you get the custom lower intake ports from? I wish there were shop that could crank things like that out around here!

All the little details that are worth it later on down the road when its in the car!

Keep up the good work.

[EuroxS4]

Nice work! are you 3d printing yourself? Where did you get the custom lower intake ports from? I wish there were shop that could crank things like that out around here!

All the little details that are worth it later on down the road when its in the car!

Keep up the good work.

I am designing and printing everything myself right now. I still have a few revisions I need to make. Possibly thinking of a redesign for the adapter to make it smaller to cut plenum size down as the skunk2 plenum has a volume of 5 liters as it is Technically 4.25 liters of plenum volume should be plenty. Well see what happens. The lower runners were a one of custom part from a friend who lives in germany and has access to a 5 axis cnc machine. Ideally I should of made it slightly longer for clearance and packaging however I was worried with the skunk2 center feed plenum it would be too tall. I am still making some changes. Its hard cause I have alot going on. So I will try to update with progress as its made.

In regards to runners it turns out early gallardo's had mpi engines. Those runner can be bought for roughly $400 on ebay that may have a been a better solution for off the shelf parts, but at this point it makes sense to finish what I already designed and still need to revise.

I will say this. Factory power steering is not an option. But I do have a solution coming from europe.

This is the solution:

236491


So this particular power steering pump is a electric unit made by TRW. This pump is installed in many FWD vehicles in europe like vw,opel, and a few others. Fun fact this same pump is also used in porsche 997 cup cars. Only draw back is that its a little power hungry roughly consumes 70amp when running. So I will be modifying the stock alternator to a high output alternator doubling its output to compensate for this draw. The wiring is fairly simple only 4 wires.

1. Ground (-) , (brown).

2. Main plus (+) with 70 A fuse (red).

3. Plus auxiliary after ignition (+), (black).

4. Auxiliary plus after starting the alternator (+), (blue).

That being said I still want to confirm this pinout as some pumps use steering angle to know when to assist in steering. As it looks like it can be simplified by connecting 3 and 4 together and running them possibly to the alternator signal wire. I am still looking into this to make sure this is accurate information. The best thing about this setup is I'm pretty sure I can find some room under the hood to mount it and I dont have to worry about it robbing horsepower from the engine even though a typical power steering pump the losses are minimal either way. This is where I'm currently at. It also seems as my fuel rail goals were a bit ambitious and I may need to change the fittings I planned to use or how the fuel rail is fed. I will elaborate on that shortly once I have the fuel rail tapped and ready to go. Stay tuned!!

[EuroxS4]

Small update. King Rod bearings are on order as well as King Main bearings and ARP625+ rod bolts as well. Stay tuned for updates.

[Spike00513]

Small update. King Rod bearings are on order as well as King Main bearings and ARP625+ rod bolts as well. Stay tuned for updates.

NEED KING SHOCKS BROTHER -HH

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/38/b6/7f/38b67f9a87c793e49eb347884f12745b.gif

[EuroxS4]

No need for king shocks. This wagon is not going off road lol. However It seems the main bearings are backordered. May need to source some calico acl race bearings instead.

[EuroxS4]

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King rod bearings arrived. Having a hard time finding main bearings for the crank it seems as no one makes them. I will have to look and see if ACL possibly has anything. Stay tuned!!


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[EuroxS4]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210623/9f10ae38d43b2f83806439af6fbda7a1.jpg
Electric power steering pump just arrived. Will be looking at wiring shortly.


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[Gin+]

I'd be curious to know if that pump has some load changing ability and how its signaled. Some light internet reading suggests its popular to retrofit electric PS pumps from old Volvo's but they don't run at full load without being controlled via CAN bus.

[EuroxS4]

I'd be curious to know if that pump has some load changing ability and how its signaled. Some light internet reading suggests its popular to retrofit electric PS pumps from old Volvo's but they don't run at full load without being controlled via CAN bus.

From the reading Ive done this pump needs to see 12v and a load signal from alternator. The pump itself is always wired to ground and battery with a 80amp fuse inline. It is activated by ignition on or 12v hot with key on and alternator signal. However alot of people spice those 2 wires together and run them to the 12v hot with key or ignition on circuit insterad. Pump needs a 80amp fuse. It draws 80amps at full lock. Chances are I will need to modify alternator to high output to compensate for the draw of the pump.

[EuroxS4]

No updates yet. Shopping for main bearings. It turns out ACL makes some bearing for CEPA and CEPB engine codes for ttrs and rs3. I'm gonna take a shot and see if they are gonna work in a iron block. Stay tuned. I may post some pics of engine tear down once I get to it to get it ready for the machine shop.

[avant1987]

No updates yet. Shopping for main bearings. It turns out ACL makes some bearing for CEPA and CEPB engine codes for ttrs and rs3. I'm gonna take a shot and see if they are gonna work in a iron block. Stay tuned. I may post some pics of engine tear down once I get to it to get it ready for the machine shop.

Edited, saw you mentioned ACL bearings above. As an aside my buddy has a fully built 07k. Gtx35r turbo, returnless fuel system, forged crank, rods, built/ port and polished head etc. He upgraded the Rod bearings but used Oem bearings for the mains. Conservatively the car is pushing 500 without issue. Has more in it.


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[EuroxS4]

I ended up going with King bearings for the mains as they are proven to take all the power you can throw at them and are very close in terms of tolerances out of the box for the most part. I am planning on going with a system with a return line as I think its better overall to have a rising rate fuel system. On that note I'd like to say the project is a little behind schedule as I had some other things I had to take care of. But I will be ordering springs and retainers this week along with valves for the head. After that tear down can begin. I will try to upload some pictures. I am also waiting for the plenum to show up with the next week or so. So stay tuned to see that and also I will designing a adapted for throttle body transition.

[avant1987]

I ended up going with King bearings for the mains as they are proven to take all the power you can throw at them and are very close in terms of tolerances out of the box for the most part. I am planning on going with a system with a return line as I think its better overall to have a rising rate fuel system. On that note I'd like to say the project is a little behind schedule as I had some other things I had to take care of. But I will be ordering springs and retainers this week along with valves for the head. After that tear down can begin. I will try to upload some pictures. I am also waiting for the plenum to show up with the next week or so. So stay tuned to see that and also I will designing a adapted for throttle body transition.

Sounds great! If you need someone to build the head for you, my buddy runs the build program for top ends at IAG. He builds heads for non Subaru motors weekends on the side. He built the 07k head mentioned above, VW audi guy so he has a lot of familiarity with the VR, 1.8t and 07k platforms.

Shoot me a DM if you want to get in touch with him. I see you are in New Jersey, he is in northern MD so it wouldn’t be too far.

Some of this work
242163


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[EuroxS4]

I appreciate the offer. I have good friend thats doing most of the machining for me on the block and head. I will be assembling myself. Engine is being built to push north of 700whp[:D][:D][:D][:D][wrench][wrench][wrench]

[EuroxS4]

Finally an update. Literally just finally came. It was a very long wait. Looking forward to mocking it up. Will most likely needs to make an adapter for throttle body as well and I’ll integrate a map sensor as well.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210812/e472b1cb9110467a887723e401e256d5.jpg


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[EuroxS4]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210814/9b06eee986e808f8836042f600ad02a7.jpg
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Still need a few revisions. But looking good. I will try to get some more shot of it on the engine when I have a minute. Stay tuned!!


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[Ol Dirty Noodle]

Just went from 6 to midnight

[EuroxS4]

Just went from 6 to midnight

I'm failing to understand your point??

[Ol Dirty Noodle]

I'm failing to understand your point??

Means my dick gets hard looking at that pic, good work dude

[EuroxS4]

Means my dick gets hard looking at that pic, good work dude

Ahh ok, lol. Yes progress is being made,slowly but surely. Thank you for the kind words.[up]

Currently waiting on supertech springs and titanium retainers. Also in the process of picking out the valves that will work best for the abuse this engine will have to go through.[:D]

[Gosser]

Holy, that a big plenum! Nice piece for sure. I have no idea how they will bolt together, but Im sure its all planned out already since the bottom half is still pla.

Nice work and keep the updates coming!

[EuroxS4]

Holy, that a big plenum! Nice piece for sure. I have no idea how they will bolt together, but Im sure its all planned out already since the bottom half is still pla.

Nice work and keep the updates coming!

Yeah initially I thought I was going to be bolted together from the other side to later find out no. But the plenum is a 5L volume, the pla adapter will get a bit streamlined and revised for some significant change to help me fit the fuel rail and injectors in as well. It will most likely be shorter in terms of height as too much volume is never good. But yes coming along nicely. Springs and retainer should be here within the next few days. Also valves will be ordered this week as well.

[BumblebVR6]

Means my dick gets hard looking at that pic, good work dude

You 'Ol Dirty Noodle you!! Haha

[EuroxS4]

Valves will be ordered probably tonight or tomorrow. Looking like Ferrea is the way to go. Exhaust will get super alloys and the intake will get the competition plus intake valves. I may start the redesign of the adapter tonight if I have time. I also have a TTRS DAZA engine thats blown coming in for parts. Will be looking at cylinder head among other things to see whats changed and what improvements were made. I will see if any sensors can be used from that engine to help with packaging.

[Gosser]

Its always fun looking at revised/updated parts like cylinder heads and what changes the engineering department from the predecessor made and trying to reverse engineer why. Would a TTRS head bolt up to your 07k block?

[EuroxS4]

Its always fun looking at revised/updated parts like cylinder heads and what changes the engineering department from the predecessor made and trying to reverse engineer why. Would a TTRS head bolt up to your 07k block?

Unfortunately no, the design of the TTRS head has changed alot. If It were perhaps a earlier ttrs like a 2012 or 2013 model year very possible. However this on came out of a 2018 ttrs. The design of the head is very different with the high pressure fuel pump driven of the timing chain instead of the camshaft. That being said the cams may be similar I wont know till I have it apart. I will also be looking how the timing advance is actuated on the exhaust cam to see if it can be implements on a stock 07k cylinder head. Time will tell. But I will have plenty of pictures of all that as well. Stay tuned possibly this week or next. Some goodies on the way as usual.

[EuroxS4]

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So my friends sent me over some pictures of the DAZA engine. It looks like the rod failed and the piston got wedged inside the bore. Surprisingly it looks like the head is good and intact. We will see if the cylinder head is good. However I doubt I will be able to use it as the iron block iirc is different and heads cannot be swapped between the early and late engines. From a source close to this particular case the car was making over 600whp when this happened. It looks like the rods are the weak link.


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[LJR80]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/5d4dd3d847fb7486f07f4084d19e3539.jpg

Looks like contact with the valves.


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[yrk2.7T]

Fwiw I’ve heard that stock daza rods are good at 500wtq, maybe 525wtq with a clean tune. And your asking for trouble after that.

[EuroxS4]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/5d4dd3d847fb7486f07f4084d19e3539.jpg

Looks like contact with the valves.


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That side of the piston has reliefs in the piston as you can see. I think those marks are from the cylinder bore wall. I will post some updated pics soon.


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[EuroxS4]

Fwiw I’ve heard that stock daza rods are good at 500wtq, maybe 525wtq with a clean tune. And your asking for trouble after that.

From experience safe limit on stock internals with a good custom tune 6-621hp seems to be the limit on stock internals which with drivetrain losses puts actual who around 497-500whpish. Feel free to read through the thread to see a list of upgraded forged internals going into this engine as it is being to handle much more power.


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[MetalMan]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210822/5d4dd3d847fb7486f07f4084d19e3539.jpg

Looks like contact with the valves.


That side of the piston has reliefs in the piston as you can see. I think those marks are from the cylinder bore wall. I will post some updated pics soon.

I can see where LJR80 is coming from. It looks like there are smaller valve contact nicks next to the reliefs on the pistons. Also appears the piston has rotated a little bit (which makes sense if there's no connecting rod to provide anti-rotation).

[EuroxS4]

I can see where LJR80 is coming from. It looks like there are smaller valve contact nicks next to the reliefs on the pistons. Also appears the piston has rotated a little bit (which makes sense if there's no connecting rod to provide anti-rotation).

Very possible as there is nothing left of the rod. Head will be checked. However the valves look to be ok. I will check that cylinder for leaks from the valves. As mentioned I will not be using this cylinder head. If the head checks out it will be up for sale.

[16vCorey]

I can see where LJR80 is coming from. It looks like there are smaller valve contact nicks next to the reliefs on the pistons. Also appears the piston has rotated a little bit (which makes sense if there's no connecting rod to provide anti-rotation).Exactly. Rod broke, piston rotated and smacked the head. Those are definitely valve marks. However, if the valves were closed when it happened its very likely that the head is fine.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[EuroxS4]

Only update at this point is the fact I received my exhaust valves,however it looks like springs and retainer are on back order. I don't expect them any sooner than october 5th. I will try and update shortly with regards to the TTRS cylinder head once I get it back from the machine shop. In the time being plenum adapter will be revised and possibly reprinted before getting milled or cast.

[EuroxS4]

I was able to source intake valves from IE. No dice on springs or retainers. But I also picked up some additional parts. Need to make some room so I can start mocking up the engine. Stay tuned for updates.

[EuroxS4]

Still waiting on springs and retainers. I also got some arp 625+ bolts. The springs and retainers will be here in Decemeber. Yes you heard right in december. Also currently looking at cat cams. It seems as I will need to get rid of VVT with the cams im looking at. Stay tuned for some pictures. Winter is coming so I think a fair chunk of this project Ill be able to get done during the winter.

[EuroxS4]

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Some pictures of the modification that needs to be done in order to clear the rear timing cover. Note with this modification all 5 bolts line up with the cover and 2 locating dowels. That’s it for now. Still waiting on some parts that should be here in December. Then it’s off to the machine shop. In the mean time revising intake manifold adapter and designing exhaust manifold. Stay tuned.


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[Gosser]

Holy, those bolts go through the rear timing cover... how does that cover not flex and leak like a sieve??? It looks like that middle bolt, bottoms on on the block, but still, you can compress aluminum if you try hard enough. Happy to see the 01E bolt up to the 07k with minimal modifications! Curious to see how the starter clearances are. Happy to see this this still making progress!

[EuroxS4]

Holy, those bolts go through the rear timing cover... how does that cover not flex and leak like a sieve??? It looks like that middle bolt, bottoms on on the block, but still, you can compress aluminum if you try hard enough. Happy to see the 01E bolt up to the 07k with minimal modifications! Curious to see how the starter clearances are. Happy to see this this still making progress!

Yes bolts go through rear timing cover,as you can see they are supported on the inside and the cover sits against a iron block. Im pretty sure it flexes some however it is designed to do so and not leak. Hence why the rear cover is sealed with silicone and not a gasket I'm sure. Ideally I could of taken off less material but I didnt have access to a mill at the time but yes modification to the bell housing is minimal. I am waiting to pull the parts cars apart so I can start mocking up the starter. I know the timing cover will need to be trimmed. Just waiting to pull the starter out and trim is as needed. Using a custom 1.8t flywheel with 240mm b5 rs4 clutch kit but will most likely end up going to a twin disc setup. Time will tell. progress is being made that's all that matters. I think winter more progress will be made. I already have the arp 625+ hardware for the rods, just waiting on springs and retainers. Coming in December fingers crossed then its off the the machine shop with the engine I may start designing the exhaust manifold before it goes to the machine shop or purchase a spare block for mock up.

[Leafy1]

I wouldn't worry about the amperage with that pump. It only draws 80 amps when you're pulling against the steering stops. I ran the Volvo pump in my miata racecar with a 45 amp alternator and a sub 1 lb lipo battery.

[EuroxS4]

I wouldn't worry about the amperage with that pump. It only draws 80 amps when you're pulling against the steering stops. I ran the Volvo pump in my miata racecar with a 45 amp alternator and a sub 1 lb lipo battery.

I agree but I dont mind uprgrading if needed. Time will tell. Still currently waiting on springs and retainers supposedly coming in 12/06 lets hope. In the mean time I am refining the plenum adapter and some other smaller projects for this build.

[Leafy1]

Thats fair. You should have the machine shop make you some 8mm to 10mm dowel sleeves so you can use the B6/B7 RS4 clutch instead on that flywheel. That should be the only major difference, the SAC should take up the difference between the post heights on the flywheels.

[EuroxS4]

Thats fair. You should have the machine shop make you some 8mm to 10mm dowel sleeves so you can use the B6/B7 RS4 clutch instead on that flywheel. That should be the only major difference, the SAC should take up the difference between the post heights on the flywheels.

I will consider that. However may be going to a twin disc setup either way in which case a custom flywheel will be necessary either way. Well see how the modified clutch holds up.

[Leafy1]

Basically no one in the s4 community has had any luck with the b5 rs4 clutch, the pressure plates fail regularly it seems on over 350hp cars. Do you know if the flex plate from the auto Trans 1.8s or 2.5s works with the starter you're going to use? You can get a custom twin disk from quartermaster with a release bearing slave for about $800, and all you have to supply them is a flex plate so they can mill the crank bolt pattern into the into the button flywheel. You could probably convince them to add dowel holes to the crank connection while they have it for not much more, and have your massive shop dowel the crank to match.

[EuroxS4]

Basically no one in the s4 community has had any luck with the b5 rs4 clutch, the pressure plates fail regularly it seems on over 350hp cars. Do you know if the flex plate from the auto Trans 1.8s or 2.5s works with the starter you're going to use? You can get a custom twin disk from quartermaster with a release bearing slave for about $800, and all you have to supply them is a flex plate so they can mill the crank bolt pattern into the into the button flywheel. You could probably convince them to add dowel holes to the crank connection while they have it for not much more, and have your massive shop dowel the crank to match.

Good to know. I am not using a stock clutch from rs4. Modified pressure plate and copper sintered disc sprung for now. But thanks for the info I will keep that in mind. I do not know if the flexplate will work. But the starter I am using is for a 1.8T as 1.8t and 2.5 flywheels have the same bolt pattern in theory it should work.

[EuroxS4]

Basically no one in the s4 community has had any luck with the b5 rs4 clutch, the pressure plates fail regularly it seems on over 350hp cars. Do you know if the flex plate from the auto Trans 1.8s or 2.5s works with the starter you're going to use? You can get a custom twin disk from quartermaster with a release bearing slave for about $800, and all you have to supply them is a flex plate so they can mill the crank bolt pattern into the into the button flywheel. You could probably convince them to add dowel holes to the crank connection while they have it for not much more, and have your massive shop dowel the crank to match.

Good to know. I am not using a stock clutch from rs4. Modified pressure plate and copper sintered disc sprung for now. But thanks for the info I will keep that in mind. I do not know if the flexplate will work. But the starter I am using is for a 1.8T as 1.8t and 2.5 flywheels have the same bolt pattern in theory it should work.

[baiselmareo6]

FWIW, in my experience 034 silicone hose material allow oils to seep through the layers. When used in PCV applications, over time this results in oil getting in/around/through the silicone, which can/will lubricate the mating surfaces... enabling the hose to slip off more readily.

On one of my 034 silicone/aluminum PCV hoses I had to make a bead on the aluminum tube section to prevent the silicone from eventually slipping off. Since that experience I decided I will avoid 034 silicone products when used in PCV applications.https://9apps.ooo/ (https://9apps.ooo/)

[EuroxS4]

FWIW, in my experience 034 silicone hose material allow oils to seep through the layers. When used in PCV applications, over time this results in oil getting in/around/through the silicone, which can/will lubricate the mating surfaces... enabling the hose to slip off more readily.

On one of my 034 silicone/aluminum PCV hoses I had to make a bead on the aluminum tube section to prevent the silicone from eventually slipping off. Since that experience I decided I will avoid 034 silicone products when used in PCV applications.

Not planning on using 034 silicone hoses. Also note if you dont have a bead on then end of a tube or fitting the hose will always come off under boost. Not worried about that right now, More or less still waiting on parts at this point.

[EuroxS4]

No updates yet. Still waiting on springs and retainers hopefully they will be here before christmas. They were only ordered in August. Ill keep you guys posted.

[EuroxS4]

When In doubt wait it out. Still wating on part. They should ship Jan 7th. Fingers crossed. Ill let you guys know once they arrive. In the meantime my time is focused on other projects related to this build. Stay Tuned.

[EuroxS4]

Parts Delivery coming on 01/04/2022. I will post some pictures then. Stay tuned.

[EuroxS4]

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Part delivery arrived. Didn’t come with keepers. Looks like I’m gonna have to buy some hardened keepers to keep it all together.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Leafy1]

Hardened retainers is a thing? As someone who's pushed multiple engine platforms to 1500-2000rpms over their factory redline I've never heard of that before. And I only made the mistake of using supertech stuff in one of them.

[EuroxS4]

Hardened retainers is a thing? As someone who's pushed multiple engine platforms to 1500-2000rpms over their factory redline I've never heard of that before. And I only made the mistake of using supertech stuff in one of them.

They are a thing yes. Why is supertech hardware a Mistake? Supertech hardware is reliable. Usually any soft of failure is related to installer/user error or improper fitment or seating. I have used sueprtech and ferrea spring and retainers in a number of engines without issues. Only issue I ran into is if you have the wrong springs installed with a very high lift cam the spring will bind as the lift is past its maximum compression measurement, eventually wearing out a guide or shearing the valve right at the keeper.

Stock Redline on early 5banger is about 58-6300. This engine is going past 9 grand.

[Leafy1]

Spring rate dropping pretty rapidly with use is the big one. I know a couple people who lost miata motors due to it before they finally started measuring their spring force at installed height before and after. I only ran my supertech motor for like 60 hours so I lucked out and I opted for the extra pre-loaded shim since I was running stock cams.
The bigger issue, and the one I experienced, is valves deforming on any valve job more aggressive than a single angle, I can think of like 10 engines that died from that, mine was on its way to do that I had the intake valve lash close up 15 thou in about 40 hours, so I was very close to having intake valves leaking, which would have quickly lead to a dropped valve if I didn't incorporate checking valve lash into my off season prep after watching other people's failure.that engine went on to loose another 8 thou in the next 10 hours which is when I decided to swap platforms and swear off supertech. Pacalloy springs are the trick stuff anyways and not that much more expensive.

[EuroxS4]

Spring rate dropping pretty rapidly with use is the big one. I know a couple people who lost miata motors due to it before they finally started measuring their spring force at installed height before and after. I only ran my supertech motor for like 60 hours so I lucked out and I opted for the extra pre-loaded shim since I was running stock cams.
The bigger issue, and the one I experienced, is valves deforming on any valve job more aggressive than a single angle, I can think of like 10 engines that died from that, mine was on its way to do that I had the intake valve lash close up 15 thou in about 40 hours, so I was very close to having intake valves leaking, which would have quickly lead to a dropped valve if I didn't incorporate checking valve lash into my off season prep after watching other people's failure.that engine went on to loose another 8 thou in the next 10 hours which is when I decided to swap platforms and swear off supertech. Pacalloy springs are the trick stuff anyways and not that much more expensive.

This is only an issue with high lift cams, as most never care to look at max lift height of the spring. Running a cam that has more lift than the spring is designed for equals same issues/damage you mentioned. I lost 2 engines with supertech valve trains however this was due to customer installing a higher lift cam than what the springs were designed for. one engine wore through the valve guide until it hit the valve and broke it grenading the motor. Other engine suffered same fate except that one broke at the keeper from pressure of the spring and lack of support from valve guide due to wear. Both engines had about 5-9k miles on them. As long as its all measure correctly you wont have issues.

[Leafy1]

Most of the issues I've seen are on factory cams. Well under the rated max lift on the springs.

[EuroxS4]

Most of the issues I've seen are on factory cams. Well under the rated max lift on the springs.

I can't say I've seen this happen with stock cams, as there isn't much of a need for this hardware with stock cams. Unless going for crazy boost, and with a baby k03 even k04 25-28psi isn't crazy boost numbers and the stock hardware shouldn't have any problems managing anything a k03 or k04 can throw at it. Everyone's experiences vary, I have heard of issue but I don't recall anyone ever mentioning stock cams either way thanks for the heads up I appreciate the input.

[Leafy1]

Did any of your missing parts come in? I'm hoping we'll see the first internet proof of a driving a4 07k swap year.

[EuroxS4]

Majority of my parts arrived. But I am very busy still missing a few things no dice on keepers yet. I am hoping to have some sort of a decent update possibly end of june or july. Time will tell, right now I have way too much on my plate but progress is being made. Expect an update in a month or two sadly.

[EuroxS4]

Some updates are coming within the next month or two. This is still ongoing as are many of my other project's. Stay tuned for the updates, will be some nice hardware and pictures as well as progress.

[JoshDub]

Any updates on this project EuroxS4?

[EuroxS4]

I will have an update shortly. probably within the next week or two.

[EuroxS4]

As things get delayed due to other projects and work. I decided to post somewhat of an update in regards to the fueling system that will be installed. Nothing crazy still sourcing a few bits and pieces, hopefully I will have a much more substantial update for you guys here in a few weeks, till then I will try to post some odds and ends in regards to this build.

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Dual walbro450’s should do the trick I think. Still need to find a y pipe and I think I need a sender fuel hat so I can run new bulkhead fittings and fuel lines. Probably looking at 10an feed possibly 8an return. Although that is overkill I think it’s the way to go.[emoji6][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482]

[EuroxS4]

Finally some updates are coming in the next few weeks along with some pictures. I've been busy. But have just about everything to get going on this project. Stay tuned.

[ImRobBailey]

Looking forward to seeing what progress you've made.

[EuroxS4]

I have not forgotten about this project or you guys. Things just got delayed but I will have some updates coming in the next month. I need to part out my b6 avant hopefully by the time i'm done the other parts will be in my possession. Some car porn incoming in the next post.

[EuroxS4]

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So for context, I chopped the front clip from my avant and scrapped the rest. Will be using this clip for mock-up and fitment. You can also see some goodies in the pictures like the modified lower oil pan, the modified subframe for extra clearance jus t in case. Custom exhaust manifold and downpipe. Now that we have all that I can start mocking up the engine. I will try to update the thread later this week once the engine is test fit. Stay Tuned!!


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[BumblebVR6]

Nice! Did you just use a SawzAll?

[EuroxS4]

Nice! Did you just use a SawzAll?

Yes, that's why they call it a sawzall baby!!I used the sawzall to cut the body. The subframe I used a combo of sawzall and and a cut off wheel and air hammer with cutting bit to separate the pinch welds on the subframe to open it nice and even. I used both short and long metal blades to cut it. The roof went like butter, however most of the structure is in the floor pan that was a bitch to cut. Shorter blades are better because they don't flex as much, longer blade are sometimes necessary if cutting or plunging for a deeper cut is needed. All in all I had it cut in about 10minutes also not my first time cutting a vehicle. But now I have a front clip I can use for mockup before I start to swap everything into my other avant.

Subframe is mostly boxed in and all tied in. I used 5/16 thick plate steel for the bottom and side reinforcement. Super thick and probably overkill but I wanted to make the subframe as strong as possible given the fact that I removed alot of materials.


I have a 01E transmission modified for the 07K ,but today I will be modifying the 01A thats in the front clip so I can mount the 07k and throw the front clip on and see how much of the rad support I will need to trim and most likely remove the stock fans and mount different fans on the front side of the radiator.

[BumblebVR6]

Yes, that's why they call it a sawzall baby!!I used the sawzall to cut the body. The subframe I used a combo of sawzall and and a cut off wheel and air hammer with cutting bit to separate the pinch welds on the subframe to open it nice and even. I used both short and long metal blades to cut it. The roof went like butter, however most of the structure is in the floor pan that was a bitch to cut. Shorter blades are better because they don't flex as much, longer blade are sometimes necessary if cutting or plunging for a deeper cut is needed. All in all I had it cut in about 10minutes also not my first time cutting a vehicle. But now I have a front clip I can use for mockup before I start to swap everything into my other avant.

Subframe is mostly boxed in and all tied in. I used 5/16 thick plate steel for the bottom and side reinforcement. Super thick and probably overkill but I wanted to make the subframe as strong as possible given the fact that I removed alot of materials.


I have a 01E transmission modified for the 07K ,but today I will be modifying the 01A thats in the front clip so I can mount the 07k and throw the front clip on and see how much of the rad support I will need to trim and most likely remove the stock fans and mount different fans on the front side of the radiator.

Awesome! Reason I ask, is because I have a sedan shell in my garage I need to get rid of. Sucks because it's in amazing shape. No rust, Texas car :-(. I stripped mostly everything off of it so it doesn't roll. Would be perfect for someone who needs a clean chassis for a race car or something, but it will just go to scrap unfortunately.

[EuroxS4]

Awesome! Reason I ask, is because I have a sedan shell in my garage I need to get rid of. Sucks because it's in amazing shape. No rust, Texas car :-(. I stripped mostly everything off of it so it doesn't roll. Would be perfect for someone who needs a clean chassis for a race car or something, but it will just go to scrap unfortunatelly.

Someone here was asking if they ever built a racecar, I would think a roller chassis would be a perfect candidate as for the track use you dont need any of the create comforts and so on. Maybe reach out to that person see if they want to give you something for it. As scrap its probably worth 200-400$ in weight as scrap. If you have a factory catalyst that alone is worth anywhere between 250-400$.

But yes sawzall cuts it like butter if you need to cut it up. Just make sure to get the carbide blades for thick metal or metal blade with the correct TPI.

[Mike Tries]

Someone here was asking if they ever built a racecar, I would think a roller chassis would be a perfect candidate as for the track use you dont need any of the create comforts and so on. Maybe reach out to that person see if they want to give you something for it. As scrap its probably worth 200-400$ in weight as scrap. If you have a factory catalyst that alone is worth anywhere between 250-400$.

But yes sawzall cuts it like butter if you need to cut it up. Just make sure to get the carbide blades for thick metal or metal blade with the correct TPI.

That's probably me. Unfortunately, the logistics of getting it from Texas to PA would outweigh the value for me (plus I already have a car now), but someone doing what I'm doing that's closer to you might be interested. Maybe check out your local SCCA chapter's web forum and see if anybody wants it. You're probably right--it would probably make a good platform to start with.

[ImRobBailey]

That's definitely some car porn. What a gorgeous exhaust manifold. [drool]

[EuroxS4]

That's definitely some car porn. What a gorgeous exhaust manifold. [drool]

More to come, when I have it mocked up. I Will be mounting turbo and some other goodies as well as mocking up intake manifold.

[BumblebVR6]

Someone here was asking if they ever built a racecar, I would think a roller chassis would be a perfect candidate as for the track use you dont need any of the create comforts and so on. Maybe reach out to that person see if they want to give you something for it. As scrap its probably worth 200-400$ in weight as scrap. If you have a factory catalyst that alone is worth anywhere between 250-400$.

But yes sawzall cuts it like butter if you need to cut it up. Just make sure to get the carbide blades for thick metal or metal blade with the correct TPI.

Everything in engine bay is gone. No suspension, brakes, subframes, doors, hood, etc. Its literally just the shell. Got flooded in '19 so I bought it back from the insurance for $300 so don't expect to get much for it. Just really wanted to get the motor, and all components I listed off of it before I scrap it. Was such a clean car. Oh well, I need the room for my other projects so it will be leaving soon hopefully.

[EuroxS4]

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[Wet0willy01]

As things get delayed due to other projects and work. I decided to post somewhat of an update in regards to the fueling system that will be installed. Nothing crazy still sourcing a few bits and pieces, hopefully I will have a much more substantial update for you guys here in a few weeks, till then I will try to post some odds and ends in regards to this build.

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Dual walbro450’s should do the trick I think. Still need to find a y pipe and I think I need a sender fuel hat so I can run new bulkhead fittings and fuel lines. Probably looking at 10an feed possibly 8an return. Although that is overkill I think it’s the way to go.[emoji6][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482]
Who’s fuel pump adapter is that?

[EuroxS4]

Who’s fuel pump adapter is that?

SRM makes them for b5 s4’s. But they fit most if not all stock fuel tank baskets.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[EuroxS4]

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Still need to revise the plenum adapter plate. Need to shrink it down some. I will try to fit the turbo tomorrow. Also waiting on ac compressor to check fan fitment. I already had to cut it down some but it looks like it will work. Stay tuned!!!


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[EuroxS4]

Currently working on fitting the stock accessories and belts. Trimming the fan shroud as needed so that the stocker can be used. Also waiting on billet t-stat housing and valve cover. In the mean time revising intake manifold plenum adapter. Should have some more pictures up possibly later in the day or this up coming week. Also designing a transition flange for the plenum to go to mustang 5.0 throttle body to a 75mm VDO or a 80mm hemi throttle body.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Currently working on fitting the stock accessories and belts. Trimming the fan shroud as needed so that the stocker can be used. Also waiting on billet t-stat housing and valve cover. In the mean time revising intake manifold plenum adapter. Should have some more pictures up possibly later in the day or this up coming week. Also designing a transition flange for the plenum to go to mustang 5.0 throttle body to a 75mm VDO or a 80mm hemi throttle body.

I have a spare 80mm VDO hemi if you need one


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[EuroxS4]

I have a spare 80mm VDO hemi if you need one


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

I have both a 75mm vdo and a hemi 80mm. Thank you for the offer. I will be trimming and test fitting a few things today.

[EuroxS4]

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She’s good und tight. Stock shroud fits with some much needed trimming however it should not affect function. But it is a close fit with millimeters to spare. Also note I cut out the bottom charge tube so that helped some as well. Next on the list is to 3D print a simplified intake adapter and redesign the t stat output flange and fitting to fit and mess well with lower radiator hose. The goal is to use as much stock parts as possible right now. However that may change as I will want to bulletproof the cooling system and get rid of as much of not all plastic components and fittings. Instead of making and adapter for the throttle body I think I will redrill for the 80mm hemi. Stay tuned.


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[Wet0willy01]

Looks like some progress is being made. Nice work.

[EuroxS4]

Looks like some progress is being made. Nice work.

Yes I decide to change my approach to the intake manifold going to simplify it a bit. I have a plenum spacer I will modify to use as the flange to bolt the plenum on. So total plenum volume will be probably close to 6liters which isn't ideal normally you want double the displacement but I think total volume will end up being 5.5liters or so paired with 80mm hemi throttle body.

[EuroxS4]

Waiting on some pieces to come back from anodizing. Hang tight should be back shortly.

[EuroxS4]

Little update. I have the valve cover back from anodizing. Still waiting on thermostat housing. Will also be looking at coolant lines next and getting the throttle body situation sorted out planning on using 80mm hemi throttle body for the time being and possibly going up to a 90mm throttle body.

[Gunnarrrrr]

You just get it anodized raw or get a color? let’s see it!


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[EuroxS4]

Raw no, was supposed to be aerospace blue, but the anodize was dragging his feet. Ended up getting anodized elsewhere in black. However still possible to get the blue, not sure of timeframe. I guess well see.

[Audi_Enjoyer]

Big fan of all your follow-up of the whole process, was actually looking to do something similar but a lot less overbuilt. I was going on if's and maybe's but since reading this whole thread I've been motivated to start getting into it. Just gotta get the wife's approval 😅

[EuroxS4]

Good to hear! Progress has been slow, got too many things going on right now along with the business and family it's getting harder and harder to find the time to get things done. However I promise there are updates coming. As well as some minor changes.

[sandspeed]

This is encouraging me to try the B8.5 07K swap.

[Audi_Enjoyer]

We've got the car to start the project! Just picked up a 2002 A4 Avant with the 1.8T and the O1A. Doubt the 5-speed will remain but at least we've got a running chassis.

I'm going to be honest, I'm in no way a mechanic or a fabricator. I know my way around a car and how to fix/maintain it but this is going to be my first big project.

Now to find the engine, after some research I know that some have forged crankshafts and some don't. I'm already looking for the adapter tool to turn the crank on the 5 cylinder engines. My nearest scrapyard has a bunch of 2.5's that are good according to the staff there but I'd rather make sure myself

For the mounts, I was going with the IABED adapter for the oil filter and race3.ca has a set of pre-fab adapter mounts to set the engine on the 1.8T mounts.

For the ECU, I found out that CO Motorsport based in Nova Scotia has a full adapter harness for a turbo 07k application with an EMU Black.

Don't know what the objective in terms of power or whatever. My idea of the project is to have your standard wagon but with a funny 5 cylinder turbo sound.

Will keep in touch whenever I have news to give but overall very happy to add some content to the conversation.

[EuroxS4]

We've got the car to start the project! Just picked up a 2002 A4 Avant with the 1.8T and the O1A. Doubt the 5-speed will remain but at least we've got a running chassis.

I'm going to be honest, I'm in no way a mechanic or a fabricator. I know my way around a car and how to fix/maintain it but this is going to be my first big project.

Now to find the engine, after some research I know that some have forged crankshafts and some don't. I'm already looking for the adapter tool to turn the crank on the 5 cylinder engines. My nearest scrapyard has a bunch of 2.5's that are good according to the staff there but I'd rather make sure myself

For the mounts, I was going with the IABED adapter for the oil filter and race3.ca has a set of pre-fab adapter mounts to set the engine on the 1.8T mounts.

For the ECU, I found out that CO Motorsport based in Nova Scotia has a full adapter harness for a turbo 07k application with an EMU Black.

Don't know what the objective in terms of power or whatever. My idea of the project is to have your standard wagon but with a funny 5 cylinder turbo sound.

Will keep in touch whenever I have news to give but overall very happy to add some content to the conversation.

Cool to hear, my swap is going into a avant as well. Progress has been slow due to many other factors and life and running a business so free time is a luxury. I will try to update this thread within the next monnth in terms of where I'm at. Right now my main goal is to get the cooling system sorted out, then the plumbing for turbo and IC lastly the wiring and she should be ready to drop in.

[EuroxS4]

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Some machine porn for you guys. Still working on getting the rear coolant flange sorted out as well as the intake manifold. I will post some pictures of exhaust manifold and turbo possibly mocked up in the next few weeks. Plan on spending some time to I rally get moving on this project. Stay tuned.


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[EuroxS4]

I know this thread has been dormant for some time. I have been busy and have many things going on, both at the business level and personal life, sometime you just have to deal with the hand your dealt. Not going to go into specifics here however I do plan an update on the status of the project and some progress that's been made. Stay tuned for some pictures and updates in the next few weeks.

[EuroxS4]

Still chipping away at this project. I have some more parts and updates coming. I will try to post some updates later this upcoming week. Intake manifold situation is now resolved. So we are close. Just need to finish plumbing the cooling system and some odds and ends and well be getting ready to possibly do a video series on youtube perhaps.

[Larhal]

Still chipping away at this project. I have some more parts and updates coming. I will try to post some updates later this upcoming week. Intake manifold situation is now resolved. So we are close. Just need to finish plumbing the cooling system and some odds and ends and well be getting ready to possibly do a video series on youtube perhaps.

We all cant wate to see the video[a4]