2018 Q7 3.0T brake job

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello and good day fellow enthusiasts,

I'm in the planning phase for my upcoming brake job on my 2018 Q7. I'll layout my plan and hopefully you guys can provide some comments/recommendations so that I can adjust my plan accordingly to your experiences and feedback.

I'm planning on picking up the centric rotors for the front and rear:
Front part number 125.33158
Rear part number 125.33155

I'm still up in the air about brake pads so I'm open to recommendations. Also, does anyone know how many pad wear sensors are installed on the 4M Q? I assume one for the front and another for the rear. Are there any favorites for the aftermarket pad wear sensors?

Thank you for your time and support,

Devin

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[nivlek]

I am looking at rotors and pads as well.

How different are Centric ones from Tire Rack ($540) when comparing with OEM Audi ones ($947) from ECS?

Front Rotors (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-brake-rotors-pair-375x36/4m0615301adkt/)
Rear Rotors (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/rear-brake-rotors-pair-350x28/4m0615601jkt/)

For pads the price difference is also quite significant, $100 vs $330

Front pads (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/brk-lining/4m0698151bd/)
Rear pads (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/brk-lining/4m0698451r/)

Price in total for OEM pads and rotors is double...

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

The centric rotors should be high carbon which is usually classified as GS3500 or better. I believe OEM rotors are standard GS3000, someone correct me if I'm wrong. The higher carbon content the more durable the rotor.

As for pads, I'm thinking semi-metallic due to the weight of the truck. I usually use a ceramic pad such as EBC yellows but I'm not sure if i can justify the cost of the yellows in this case.

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[gdawg'05a4]

If you're looking for OEM rotors, prices from Bernardi Audi are pretty good, $796 all 4 corners.

OEM front rotors for $238 a piece (PN supercedes the ECS one):
https://audi.bernardiparts.com/oem-parts/audi-rotor-4m0615301as?c=Zz1icmFrZXMmcz1mcm9udC1icmFrZXMmbD0z MCZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWF1ZGkmbz1xNyZ5PTIwMT cmdD1wcmVzdGlnZSZlPTMtMGwtdjYtZ2Fz

Rear rotors for $160 each (PN also supercedes the one on ECS):
https://audi.bernardiparts.com/oem-parts/audi-rotor-4m0615601p?c=Zz1icmFrZXMmcz1yZWFyLWJyYWtlcyZsPTkmb j1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1hdWRpJm89cTcmeT0yMDE3JnQ 9cHJlc3RpZ2UmZT0zLTBsLXY2LWdhcw%3D%3D

Differences between the OEM and Centric are probably the metallurgy. I have no complaints on the OEM rotors. Fronts were replaced at 40k due to the brake squeal TSB and I wanted the new replacent pads to mate up to new rotors. They'd still be on today if not for that and had plenty of life left then. I'm still on the original rear rotors and pads at 57k miles.

[chawski]

For sensors, there should be one up front (drivers side) and one in rear (passenger side)
I just used Bowa sensors from ECS (I think) and they work as expected. They used to be $16 each, I think they recently doubled their price. Either way, theyre still a fraction of the oem price and work just fine

I always tell people to just buy new sensors and return it if you dont need it. Theyre super fragile and its really hard to get them off without breaking a wire, or the entire damn thing.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Thank you all for sharing. I agree on sensors, you don't want to be in the middle of a brake job only to damage the current ones and then realize you need spare units.

I believe the OEM rotors to be plenty strong, however, i think when my Q sat for a bit there were pad deposits that occurred causing that out of round rotor feel when high speed braking. The reason I'm up for trying centric is because I know they make a quality part and the higher metallurgy rating is a plus.

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[RAudi Driver]

I use Zimmerman Rotors and Pagid Pads.

Can get the entire brake job done for $450.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

I use Zimmerman Rotors and Pagid Pads.

Can get the entire brake job done for $450.That price seems way cheap. I assume you are referring to the 4L Q?

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[Kittrell]

Partsgeek

http://photodonn.novarata.net/upload/2020/01/19/20200119223746-03221c41.png

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

I was actually looking at this kit last week. It looks like a quality kit for an awesome price.
Partsgeek

http://photodonn.novarata.net/upload/2020/01/19/20200119223746-03221c41.png

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[nivlek]

Partsgeek

http://photodonn.novarata.net/upload/2020/01/19/20200119223746-03221c41.png

Can anyone confirm on the rotor sizing?

This kit has 375mm front (125.33158) and 330mm rear (125.33137).

I think from my search the rear is 350mm, part number for the Centric 350mm is (125.33155)

[hgtuner08]

when you go through could you do a quick write up? Im assuming its a normal brake job but would love torque specs and dealing with the rear e brake if neccesary. I dont see any write ups for the 4M chassis, i guess its probably the same as the 4L.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

when you go through could you do a quick write up? Im assuming its a normal brake job but would love torque specs and dealing with the rear e brake if neccesary. I dont see any write ups for the 4M chassis, i guess its probably the same as the 4L.I'll try, I'll be outside in the cold doing this brakejob, hopefully next week.

My old HEX-USB VCDS isn't compatible with many modules on the Q7. My new HEX-NET should be here today.

I ordered a set of FREMAX rotors for $265 on eBay. I had some car enthusiast friends tell me to inquire with FREMAX and see if they have rotors for the Q and they did! I also ordered Centric posi-quiet semi metallic pads and Centric brake pad wear sensors for the front and rear.

Total for brake parts only (without VCDS) is $416.50

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Forgot to post part numbers for those who would care for them as research...

FREMAX front rotors: BD3649
FREMAX rear rotors: BD3650
Centric front wear sensor: 116.33024
Centric rear wear sensor: 116.33025
Centric front posi quiet semi metallic pads: 104.18940
Centric rear posi quiet semi metallic pads: 104.18950

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

FREMAX rotors out of stock. Went with Centric rotors, new total is $579 with tax and shipping.

Can someone please confirm? A tech support rep from centric is saying that each corner has a pad wear sensor? I thought it was one for the front and one for the rear?

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[hgtuner08]

yea I understand, its a pain to document stuff while you're going through it. Just got my new HEX NET cable from ross tech too. If you have time afterwards just write down what you remember specifically regarding the e brake part and anything else out of the ordinary or unusual you might have noticed. That would be a huge help. I needed new pads and brakes after 15k on my q7 and audi covered most of the cost after a lot of arguing back and forth but now approaching 65k and i think its time to replace the pads/rotors again.

[chrisfast]

Thought I would chime in, since I just did all 4 corners on my 12. I went with Adams Rotors (sponsor on Audizine), Stoptech pads, SS lines, and sensors. I did opt for the higher metal content too.
After installing everything I’d rate the price for quality an A. I probably paid a little more than I would have for oem, but slowing-down and stopping a 3 ton vehicle with a newborn in the back is priceless. Will be going back to him when my 18 S6 needs brakes. Hope this helps.


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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Thought I would chime in, since I just did all 4 corners on my 12. I went with Adams Rotors (sponsor on Audizine), Stoptech pads, SS lines, and sensors. I did opt for the higher metal content too.
After installing everything I’d rate the price for quality an A. I probably paid a little more than I would have for oem, but slowing-down and stopping a 3 ton vehicle with a newborn in the back is priceless. Will be going back to him when my 18 S6 needs brakes. Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Thank you very much for sharing. I believe with the 4M Q, if you do order from Adams rotors for the front, he purchases OEM rotors and performs the desired drill patterns, finishes, etc.

I opened up the Centric front rotors and visibly they look top notch. The difference I noticed from OEM is that the rotor face does not have that obvious cross hatch grind that the OEM rotors have. I'll post photos of everything before i start working on it this Saturday.

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Quick update: I was hoping to get the brake job done last weekend before my 600 mile road trip today, however, my back muscles decided to have the arthritis issue take charge with some insane muscle spasms that kept me from getting to my job, etc. I'm hoping to be 100 percent functional and to get this done within a week or two.

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[blackfunk]

Sunday looks like the best day weather wise. Best of luck with that.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello everyone,

Got the fronts done today. My back started acting up and I called it quits and decided not to do the rears.

The fronts were straight forward. Feel free to ask any questions.1642991643001643011643021643031643041643 05164306164307164308

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[SQ57]

[emoji106][emoji106] You are a hero!

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Quick rundown of sequence of steps that I took...

Also, I am not responsible for any damage done to your vehicle by following what I have posted below:

- Lift truck

- Remove wheel (17mm socket)

- Turn the steering wheel to get easy access to anti-rattle clip and to remove brake pad wear sensor.

- Remove anti rattle clip and brake pad wear sensor (keep note of sensor wire routing for when reinstalling a new sensor and for using the correct brake pad for each side of the caliper) using a flathead screwdriver (my sensors broke very easily even why attempting to be gentle with a needle-nose pliers and screwdriver so I recommend having replacements ready).

- Before unbolting the caliper from the knuckle, use two flat head screwdrivers in-between the pad face and rotor to compress the pistons (if you are re-using rotors be careful not to cause damage to rotor face, also, if reusing rotors you can skip to the part where it speaks of brake pad installation). The reason for the second screwdriver is you may need to leave it jammed into place because compressing the other 3 pistons may cause the opposite side pistons to extend as brake fluid makes its way back into the brake lines.

- Unbolt the caliper via the 21mm bolts and be ready to grab the caliper (DO NOT let the caliper drop, it is very heavy and it can easily cause damage to the brake line). Hang caliper safely off to the side.

- Remove the pads from inside the caliper and clean up the caliper pistons and the pad retainer hardware.

- Remove T30 torx screw from rotor face.

- I had to use alot of force to "shake" the rust off the hub and separate the rotor from the hub via. 4LB hammer.

- Clean the entire hub assembly with a steel brush and apply anti-seize to all surface area where your new rotors will make contact with.

- Clean your new rotors with IPA (IPA translates to isopropyl alcohol, preserve the IPA beer for hydration during the brake job, lol).

- Place rotor onto hub keeping the orientation of the T30 torx mounting hole aligned with the threaded hole on the hub.

- Grease all brake pad contact points of the caliper (pistons and retainer hardware). Install pads but keep in mind the correct brake pad for the "brake pad wear sensor" side of the caliper. The brake pads will consist of an outer pad and inner pad where the sensor mounting location is different between the two. In addition, avoid grease from contacting the brake pad friction material.

- Ensure the 21mm caliper bolt threads are clean and install the caliper onto the hub. I hand tightened using a 1/2 swivel ratchet as I did not have torque specs.

- Install the brake pad wear sensor and route the wire according to what was there prior. Install the anti-rattle clip.

- Install wheels and lug bolts.

- Lower truck.

- Torque wheel bolts for 120 ft-lbs.

- Test drive

I forgot to post a pic of anti seize on the hub...164379

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

[emoji106][emoji106] You are a hero!

Sent from my SM-N975U using TapatalkThank you for the compliment, but, the brake job was one of the easiest that I've ever done.

I'll be sure to chime in again when I get around to the rear brakes.

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[SQ57]

Let us know how they hold up. Had fronts dealer done, need to do rears sometimes soon. They are squealing, no solution in sight, but happy that at 38k, and still 4/32".
Cheers,
Bob

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[hgtuner08]

nice work, thanks for taking pics. Seems like what I remember from the old q7 basically nothing that drastically different. If and when you get to the back let us know how it goes

[rmatos13]

Hi All, I have a 2018 Q7 and planning to replace the brake pads. Does anyone know if there are instructions/videos available on how to replace the rear brakes? Also, what is a "HEX-NET" and why is it needed for the brake job? Thanks in advance.

[blackfunk]

Youtube for the video's on the actual removal process. To remove the rear rotors you need to open the rear parking brake and you'll need either Carista (you can pay a 24hr usage fee - I think $5.99 - I can't recall because I have the full program as I did beta testing for them), ODB-11 which is about $80 for the full program, or RossTech VCDS aka HEX-NET which is pro level diagnostics and comes in at different price points for 3 cars, 5 cars, 10 cars or unlimited cars - I have the unlimited as well but for 99% of what I do I end up using Carista as it's a full featured incredibly easy to use product - it's easier than all of the products I mentioned above to use and would be my choice for a quick use which will also allow you to make some customization's to your car.

If you're the DIY type with a borderline pro skill set I'd say get RossTech if not either of the other products will work for you at different price points.

[Dave S]

I just installed new front pads only, at 40,000 miles. Rotors looked lightly worn so I expect I'll swap them with the next pad change. Thanks to CW6mT for the write up which was very helpful. Some comments are: I had a bit of a tough time replacing the anti rattle clips but did finally get them back in. Maybe there is a trick to it that I couldn't figure out. In my case I set the bottom of the clip in place and drove the top back into the caliper with a straight screwdriver and light mallet. On the wear sensors note there is one for each wheel. I broke the first one on removal so on the second I first disconnected the sensor end where it clips into the power connector and slid that end piece out of where it is held in place by the metal bracket on the car. I then freed the wire all the way to the brake pad. I left it in place in the pad and then removed the caliper bolts and then when I moved the worn pad away from the caliper pistons I was able to wedge the sensor out of the pad without damaging it. It's a little bit of a pain but doable for anyone with some basic skill IMHO.

[neverfollow-rs4]

Any squeaking after you changed the pads? So my fronts started squeaking between 25-30k, I'm at 40 now. I was at the dealer today and they told me my front pads are at 3mm and quoted me $1,600 for the fronts only (Pads, rotors and sensors)!!! Parts are $600 so they want $1000 for labor. They told me some bs story that I didnt believe about rotors needing to be changed. When I checked the rotors myself they seemed to be fine. I like to stick with OEM but if they are going to squeak in 20k miles then I don't want them. For example, my 2011 Jetta, never squeaked once, change the brakes for the first time at 120k (not because squeaking but because I wanted to). Any thoughts on textar pads? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-brake-pad-set-textar-4m0698151bd

[Dave S]

On mine no squeaking except on initial application of the day when in reverse. No big deal. Went with factory pads on the replacement and no problem. Perfectly quiet. You might get rotors from tire rack and use factory pads. I would think it should be silent?

[chawski]

Looking at your rotors, I’m going to assume they are similar akebono units as the sq5 uses. Some tips for the penny pinchers...

It’s probably cheaper in the long run to use oem rotors if you’re using oem pads. The ake pads are very aggressive. I cheaped out on the rears rotors and used what autozone had, and there was a lip around the edge at maybe 10k miles. Oem ones seem much more robust. I’m at 80k on my front original rotors and maybe 30 on the cheap rears, and they’re all going to need replacing at the next pad change. Would have been cheaper in the long run to pay the extra 50 for oem rotors

For sensors, get the bowa brand ones, I think ecs has them. I bought mine for $16 a pop and they work just fine. Audi wants $119 for them. They either work or don’t, not much middle ground.

[Charles.waite]

Yea so the 4M at least mine with the huge Akebono fronts (2017 Prestige w/towing, not sure if there are any brake size variations on this platform) seem to be ceramic pads. At least that’s what I’ve inferred given my past experience with insanely dusty OEM and aftermarket semi-metallic pads. I run Akebono Euro Ceramics on my b7 and ran them on the wife’s old Q5 and the level of dust with the OEM pads in my 4M is basically none, like the Akebonos.

I think when brakes come due, I’ll get centric rotors (the ones the OP posted looks very high quality, as I’d expect with Centric) and, honestly I didn’t expect to say this, but OEM pads. I know they’re pricey but they brake really well and have close to zero dust. We don’t have squealing with ours, but every once and a while they do when backing up. I can live with that if it means I only have to clean the wheels every 6 months.

And as a last resort, for the brake wear sensors you can almost always cut the sensor wires if it’s broken and loop them together to close the circuit (or bodge in a paperclip if you’re feeling extra janky). You lose the pad sensor warning ms obviously, but you can buy yourself some time to order up some cheaper aftermarket ones vs making a dealer run and spending 10x more on some. They’re just simple wires that wear through on the rotor and when a wire is worn through they go open circuit and trigger the warning. Super simple design and Audi has been using the basic design for decades.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

I hope that this post finds everyone well.

First and foremost, I would NOT recommend the centric semi-metallic pads. I've redone the fronts 4 times with different "stop squeal" formulas on the backing plate and ears. Once the brakes get warmed up they squeal ALOT on light brake pedal pressure but once you press a bit harder there is no noise.

I never got around to doing the rear brakes, however, I plan on buying a set of OEM pads for both the front and rear. If you notice the OEM backing plates have these engineered cut outs and directional arrows so I figure there's a reason as to why Audi designed it this way versus the centric backing plate which is just a regular, blank plate. Also, the centric package did not have new hardware for the brake calipers but the OEM does.

I am aware of the OEM brake squeal when reversing out of the driveway on cold days and even the brake squeal that occurs within the first stop or two on cold days. I rather live with that than the noise from these centric semi-metallics.

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[Charles.waite]

I actually had my Q7 in for its 50k service on Wednesday and we talked to the service advisor about the brake squeal. He said that to an extent it’s normal with the performance compound the brakes use. He also said that rebedding the brakes could help get rid of the squeal. I might try that this weekend but given it consists of multiple stops from 60-10mph I’m not entirely sure where I can go to do that. Some huge, empty parking lot maybe? In any event it’s worth a shot.

FWIW I found two different TSBs posted to the NHTSA site addressing brake squeal concerns. One suggested the rebel procedure. The other outlined adding a second pad retaining spring and greasing the contact areas with lithium grease. I can share a link to the pdf a bit later, can’t do it on my phone right now. The second TSB is quite exhaustive there are about 10 different steps and some parts required.

Our squealing has gotten worse so if the rebed procedure doesn’t work, I’ll likely give the second brake procedure a shot. The parts required aren’t expensive and brake jobs aren’t particularly hard.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

I have a friend who's a tech at Audi and he mentioned that some of the early build dates of the 4M Q7s (US spec) were missing a second retaining spring clip on the front calipers, on both the inner and outer caliper areas. He says when they redo the brakes on these cars they add the retaining spring clip so that both ends of the caliper has it. He says that the vehicles missing the retaining spring clips tend to have noisy brake complaints

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[m.young]

My brake replacement indicator comes on and off and I am at around ~43k miles. Can anyone please confirm if I need to purchase wear sensors for each brake or just one for the front and one for the rear as on member posted?
Is there a way to confirm whether i need to replace the front or the rear? Thank you.

[Charles.waite]

I have a friend who's a tech at Audi and he mentioned that some of the early build dates of the 4M Q7s (US spec) were missing a second retaining spring clip on the front calipers, on both the inner and outer caliper areas. He says when they redo the brakes on these cars they add the retaining spring clip so that both ends of the caliper has it. He says that the vehicles missing the retaining spring clips tend to have noisy brake complaints

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Interesting. I wonder if it was intentional or not. The TSB says to install a second spring, clean and lube the clip/spring/pad wear surfaces well, and a few other minor things. Frankly it sounds like a bit of a pain, but probably something a trained tech could knock out in like 15 minutes once he’s done it a few times. As a home DIYer who has a healthy respect for not screwing up brakes by moving too quickly, I bet I could do it all in a couple hours at most.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

There's one on each caliper. Two sensors for the front and I believe two for the rear (i never got around to replacing the rear rotors and pads, therefore, I cannot confirm for sure about the rears)
My brake replacement indicator comes on and off and I am at around ~43k miles. Can anyone please confirm if I need to purchase wear sensors for each brake or just one for the front and one for the rear as on member posted?
Is there a way to confirm whether i need to replace the front or the rear? Thank you.

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Interesting. I wonder if it was intentional or not. The TSB says to install a second spring, clean and lube the clip/spring/pad wear surfaces well, and a few other minor things. Frankly it sounds like a bit of a pain, but probably something a trained tech could knock out in like 15 minutes once he’s done it a few times. As a home DIYer who has a healthy respect for not screwing up brakes by moving too quickly, I bet I could do it all in a couple hours at most.I do have a decent amount of experience with DIY repairs and I have worked on many different cars ranging from various brands and models. It's safe to say that replacing front rotors and pads on the 4M Q7 was possibly the easiest brake job ever.

If you have basic wrenching knowledge and have done brakes before or mechanically inclined its a really simple job. Additionally, if you feel apprehensive and haven't done many DIYs, I would say leave it to a professional since they are a major safety component.

If attempting the front brakes yourself, feel free to ask questions. I haven't done the rears yet but glimpsed the design and they seem very similar to my previous B8 S4 and C7.5 A6.

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[Charles.waite]

I do have a decent amount of experience with DIY repairs and I have worked on many different cars ranging from various brands and models. It's safe to say that replacing front rotors and pads on the 4M Q7 was possibly the easiest brake job ever.

If you have basic wrenching knowledge and have done brakes before or mechanically inclined its a really simple job. Additionally, if you feel apprehensive and haven't done many DIYs, I would say leave it to a professional since they are a major safety component.

If attempting the front brakes yourself, feel free to ask questions. I haven't done the rears yet but glimpsed the design and they seem very similar to my previous B8 S4 and C7.5 A6.

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Oh I’ve done plenty of brake jobs and brake upgrades (b6A4->S4 calipers, currently b7a4-> Macan Brembos), and far more involved stuff like timing chains and cam replacement.

My only real hang ups are never having worked on a fixed caliper brake and, frankly, I don’t want to be a bonehead and screw up the brakes because there sorta important. I’m sure, as you said, it’s quite a simple job.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Oh I’ve done plenty of brake jobs and brake upgrades (b6A4->S4 calipers, currently b7a4-> Macan Brembos), and far more involved stuff like timing chains and cam replacement.

My only real hang ups are never having worked on a fixed caliper brake and, frankly, I don’t want to be a bonehead and screw up the brakes because there sorta important. I’m sure, as you said, it’s quite a simple job.I think you are more than qualified to work on the Q's brakes... it takes longer to lift the truck, support it and remove the wheels than to do the actual brake job.

I believe the Macan S Brembos are a 4 piston fixed caliper which is very similar to the Akebono 6 piston on the Q. Only real difference is 1 extra piston per inner and outer of the caliper. Also, the Q front caliper does not have provisions for quick pad changes as a brembo caliper would with the slide pins and cotter pins.

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello all,

I hope that this post finds everyone well. I have ordered new OEM pads for the front and rear. Additionally, i ordered new retaining clips for the front caliper. I also purchased a 60 grit orbital disc for my hand held grinder to lightly recondition the front rotors and remove any possible brake pad deposits.

I plan on performing the install either next weekend or the following weekend.

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Finally got around to doing the rear brakes today. I did not take photos of the process since the brake job went similarly (as far as I remember the brake jobs are identical) to the C7.5 A6 and B8 S4 rear brake jobs. I did take photos of the Centric rear rotors versus the OEM rear rotors. Additionally, the Centric brake pad wear sensors fit perfectly. I have not test driven the Q as yet because I'm re-doing the fronts tomorrow with the OEM pads. My plan is to hit both sides of the rotor faces with a light cleanoff via 60 grit grinding disc. This process it to remove any possibility of the Centric semi metallic pads that could have transferred onto the rotor surfaces.

Differences that I noticed between the Centric versus OEM rear rotors is that the OEM looks to have more ventilation slats so it may cool better.

After replacing the front pads tomorrow my Q will have Centric rotors and brake pad wear sensors, but, OEM pads at all 4 corners. 198696198697198698

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello all,

Redid the fronts today and hopefully its the last time until the pads wear down. I drove it for about an hour and everything is silent, **knocks on wood**.

I noticed the new brake hardware had a small design change. I snapped a photo of the old and new hardware along with photos of the sanded rotor surfaces and new spring clips. Take care all and I wish everyone a safe week.198811198812198813198814198815198816198817

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[renntorq]

Hi, I will be doing this job this weekend. Does anyone have the torque spec for the 21mm bolts holding the caliper to the knuckle?

Thanks,

John

[renntorq]

For reference when I took the calipers off it took about 98-100 lb-ft to remove so I used a similar number putting them back on...


Hi, I will be doing this job this weekend. Does anyone have the torque spec for the 21mm bolts holding the caliper to the knuckle?

Thanks,

John

[gdawg'05a4]

From the workshop guide, caliper bolts (#11) are 196 Nm (144 lb-ft):

243776

[Charles.waite]

To think that’s what those bolts were on my b7 and I believe it’s also a similar sized bolt. I had to use a floor jack with my breaker bar to get them, 144ftlbs is no joke.

Also, your brakes falling off the axle would present a problem so it’s good to really get it cranked down properly. And use blue locktite as that’s also what the factory manual states.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hello all,

Redid the fronts today and hopefully its the last time until the pads wear down. I drove it for about an hour and everything is silent, **knocks on wood**.

I noticed the new brake hardware had a small design change. I snapped a photo of the old and new hardware along with photos of the sanded rotor surfaces and new spring clips. Take care all and I wish everyone a safe week.198811198812198813198814198815198816198817

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** Thanks so much OP for the posts, and updated feedback. I just ordered a front end kit for my wife's 2017 Q7 from FCP with all stock gear and life-time warranty... It was about $900 but, ill never pay again!

They're 375mm up front just like yours. The rears seem "ok". And, I'll replace pads ONLY before winter sets in. Anyway, I wrestle with this car and my A6 every time I lift them to clean / grease brakes and/or change from winter to summer gear, etc.....

How did you get the Q in the air and supported SAFELY. I'm thinking of a couple options.

(1) first, I can raise it insanely high in the rear and set it on my rubber padded stand(s) at the jack-point up front,
(2) next, I could try to raise the Q under the control arm with a block of wood on the jack pad so as not to scrape-up the control arm, and then set the car on the jack point with a known good stand with rubber pad and hockey-puck like insert with semi-rounded top for Audis,
(3) finally, I could raise the SUV at jack point, do the brake job and hope not to be crushed.
CLEARLY, this later option is stupid. But I see it done in shops all the time. Trusting my limbs - or life - to a 15 year-old 2 ton jack seems like a bad idea unless I want my kids to win the insurance bet.....

Thanks for your thoughts!

By the way, I cannot count the number of times I've done brakes on BMW or Honda, but they typically have a central jack point in both front and rear, where I can lift the whole front or back and support both side separately with two stands at proper support points, and then set two additional stands under what would be a "rail" along the sides and then leave the jack locked 2mm under the initial lift point. Basically, I'd have 2 points of failure in those cases and have torn suspensions completely apart. NEVER once felt unsafe that way under any of those cars. The Audi's, however, are confounding!

I'd appreciate any thoughts you have. Don't want to be crushed saving $1K in labor.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello JWebb,

I hope that all is well. I actually do the front set or the rear set first because I use these "safejacks" and I only have two of them. Also, I have two of the R8 adapter pieces. I'll link you to what I use below. Fyi, I used these with my previous C7.5 A6 too. Good luck and reach out if you have any other questions.

https://safejacks.com/collections/compact-jack-stands/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit

https://youtu.be/YrZJhIn-96w

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hello JWebb,

I hope that all is well. I actually do the front set or the rear set first because I use these "safejacks" and I only have two of them. Also, I have two of the R8 adapter pieces. I'll link you to what I use below. Fyi, I used these with my previous C7.5 A6 too. Good luck and reach out if you have any other questions.

https://safejacks.com/collections/compact-jack-stands/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit

https://youtu.be/YrZJhIn-96w

Thanks so much for the response. I ran across these and am glad to see they can work the issue. That said, When I looked this weekend, they were back ordered.

I may support one corset at a time with two stands but need a taller Jack to get the whole side high enough to make it work. Found a decent option at menards, one at Napa and one at JD.

These safe jacks will be on my future list when available[emoji354]

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

You're welcome Jwebb. Quick thing about the safejacks. Since I got them in 2018 they were always listed as backordered. I think when you are ready to buy its

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Sorry about that last post. I posted by mistake before completing the entry.

I would order the safejacks as soon as you are ready because I have never seen them listed as "in stock" since I ordered my pair of stands in 2018.

Fyi, I came across another post where a member used the B9 RS5 380mm front rotors on their 4M Q7. I was thinking when the time comes for replacing front rotors again I'll try to source the rotors in the link below from FCPEuro.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2019-Audi-RS5-Sportback-Brake-Rotor-Front-VNE-32625KB-2-9L-V6-/393508278344?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

[Q7Audi17]

Hi All,

What is the OEM part number for the front pads? When I look it up it comes up as 4M0698151BD but the service advisor in Chicago at Fletcher Jones said it is 4M0698151BJ. If anyone knows anything about this that would be great.

2017 Audi Q7 3.0


Thanks!

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

I think the difference between the part numbers which you posted versus the service advisor's is that there is no difference and its same part, however, the "D" and the "J" signifies that the "J" is a more current revision, re-engineered part. Because I know with things like front grilles, trim pieces, etc. usually signifies the finish and/or color with the last letter or letters.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[Q7Audi17]

I think the difference between the part numbers which you posted versus the service advisor's is that there is no difference and its same part, however, the "D" and the "J" signifies that the "J" is a more current revision, re-engineered part. Because I know with things like front grilles, trim pieces, etc. usually signifies the finish and/or color with the last letter or letters.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Gotcha!

[Charles.waite]

Usually that’s the case. Not 100% if the time but like 99% of it.

[Q7Audi17]

Usually that’s the case. Not 100% if the time but like 99% of it.

Thanks!

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hi All,

What is the OEM part number for the front pads? When I look it up it comes up as 4M0698151BD but the service advisor in Chicago at Fletcher Jones said it is 4M0698151BJ. If anyone knows anything about this that would be great.

2017 Audi Q7 3.0


Thanks!

Hey everyone. I’m attaching a picture here. It shows the part # from FCP. I just finished this job last night. The parts fit perfectly and appear physically identical to those I removed. That said. It’s possible the Akebono compound formula has changed somewhat?

In any event, that which I purchased from FCP fit perfectly, the car is silent when backing up, driving and braking.

Thanks again to OP for original posting and details. I want to add/emphasize a couple points.

1. 21 MM caliper bolts are very difficult to break loose; consider turning wheel to get access and a longer bar.

2. Because you’ll be using so much force, the car may move slightly on your stands, please, please use caution, an extra pair of stands for extra safety and block your rear wheels at front and back.

3. If doing Rotors too, I’d suggested ordering at least one spare set screw. My wife's Q is a 2017 and the set screw is a T30. They strip easily. I didn't have spares, but got lucky this time!

4. As OP mentioned, it seems nearly impossible to save the pad wear sensors.. just buy new ones and have them ready. If you get lucky and manage to save one you can return it. I did not use Audi specific sensors. I think the ones I used are made by Bowa. Anyway, they’re about $18-$20 if I recall correctly. I’ve always used generics and never once had a problem. Paying for Audi specific sensors is not needed.

245936


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[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hey everyone. I’m attaching a picture here. It shows the part # from FCP. I just finished this job last night. The parts fit perfectly and appear physically identical to those I removed. That said. It’s possible the Akebono compound formula has changed somewhat?

In any event, that which I purchased from FCP fit perfectly, the car is silent when backing up, driving and braking.

Thanks again to OP for original posting and details. I want to add/emphasize a couple points.

1. 21 MM caliper bolts are very difficult to break loose; consider turning wheel to get access and a longer bar.

2. Because you’ll be using so much force, the car may move slightly on your stands, please, please use caution, an extra pair of stands for extra safety and block your rear wheels at front and back.

3. If doing Rotors too, I’d suggested ordering at least one spare set screw. My wife's Q is a 2017 and the set screw is a T30. They strip easily. I didn't have spares, but got lucky this time!

4. As OP mentioned, it seems nearly impossible to save the pad wear sensors.. just buy new ones and have them ready. If you get lucky and manage to save one you can return it. I did not use Audi specific sensors. I think the ones I used are made by Bowa. Anyway, they’re about $18-$20 if I recall correctly. I’ve always used generics and never once had a problem. Paying for Audi specific sensors is not needed.

245936


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245937245938

Before and after



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[Charles.waite]

Jealous of your garage setup!

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Jealous of your garage setup!

Thanks bro! I'm almost too old to enjoy completely, but I do what I can when kids, work and my back allow me to.

I simply can’t stand paying dealer prices for work I’d double check as a former racer.

The gear I put into the front of my wife’s Q is top notch and I don’t worry about her - or my teenagers - in that SUV.




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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Beautiful garage Jwebb! Those rotors looks sharp too! For my next brake job I'll definitely be getting rotors from FCP. Which Michelin's are you running on your Q?

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Did some maintenance yesterday. Oil change, brake fluid flush and tire rotation.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Beautiful garage Jwebb! Those rotors looks sharp too! For my next brake job I'll definitely be getting rotors from FCP. Which Michelin's are you running on your Q?

They’re pilot sport All Season. We have dedicated winters as we use her car up in Michigan and hit some really deep stuff once and a while - plus I like wheels and tires.

So, I don’t know how they do on snow, but they are simply fantastic on dry and wet pavement.


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[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Did some maintenance yesterday. Oil change, brake fluid flush and tire rotation.

Ha! I just did all of that on my A6 plus plugs and filters. How does the Motul hold up for you? I tried a few oils on my A6 and had samples tested. Castrol, LiquiMoly and Pennzoil all did fine at 4,5 and 6k, respectively. Since A6 had been tuned very early in its life, I’ve been overly conservative with oil.

That said, I found the Pennzoil doesn’t burn off like the others did. When it’s discounted 40% percent at Napa I send in and order online and pick it up. It’s funny, the guys at the count comment that me and the Mopar guys come running for those sales!


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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hey JWebb,

Thank you for the input with the tires. I currently have some Toyo all seasons but they are starting to sound a bit louder. I have about 12k miles on them. I am considering these "new to me" Vredestein Quatrac Pro All Weather tires for my future replacement.

My wife's winter wheels for her S3 has Michelin AS4s. I junked her Blizzacks WS80s because they were super noisy and seemed very questionable in the rain.

As for the oil, its the first time running it and I've never done a UOA. I usually run Castrol 0w40 A3/B4 and before this recent oil change I switched to Mobil 1 0w40, however, I was experiencing timing chain tensioner rattle on cold starts with the M1. It only stayed in about 1k and I gave the Motul Gen 2 a try. Timing chain rattle is now gone on cold start. I too am super conservative about oil, as oil usually doesn't stay in for more than 4k miles before I change it out again.

As for the Pennzoil that you like, this is the version labeled "Ultra" and not "Ultra Platinum"? I heard that ultra stuff is really good and the VOAs on BITOG show some promising data including some good "Moly" content. Thats a crazy good deal with the 40% off sales.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello all,

I hope this post finds you all well.

I've been doing some digging between yesterday and today and it seems like the 380mmx36mm rotor from the B8.5 SQ5's optional 380mm brake upgrade and the D4 A8 4.0T should fit the front of the Q7 with the OEM 6-piston Akebono caliper.

I came across some threads of guys using the 380mmx36mm rotor with the 4M Q7 calipers on the B8.5 S4s and S5s.

The differences I noticed were that the rotor hats on the 380mm were a bit larger versus the OEM 375mm rotor hats and, of course, the 5mm overall diameter which would equate to being 2.5mm closer to the caliper when applying the differences in the radius.

When I decide to do brakes again I am thinking to get a set of 380mm cross-drilled front rotors from an aftermarket company and see if everything fits as expected.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hey JWebb,

Thank you for the input with the tires. I currently have some Toyo all seasons but they are starting to sound a bit louder. I have about 12k miles on them. I am considering these "new to me" Vredestein Quatrac Pro All Weather tires for my future replacement.

My wife's winter wheels for her S3 has Michelin AS4s. I junked her Blizzacks WS80s because they were super noisy and seemed very questionable in the rain.

As for the oil, its the first time running it and I've never done a UOA. I usually run Castrol 0w40 A3/B4 and before this recent oil change I switched to Mobil 1 0w40, however, I was experiencing timing chain tensioner rattle on cold starts with the M1. It only stayed in about 1k and I gave the Motul Gen 2 a try. Timing chain rattle is now gone on cold start. I too am super conservative about oil, as oil usually doesn't stay in for more than 4k miles before I change it out again.

As for the Pennzoil that you like, this is the version labeled "Ultra" and not "Ultra Platinum"? I heard that ultra stuff is really good and the VOAs on BITOG show some promising data including some good "Moly" content. Thats a crazy good deal with the 40% off sales.

The label has changed recently and it reads “Platinum Euro”. It specifies Mercedes, Porsche, Audi and VW. I don’t believe it’s BMW LL01.

My last UOA is posted somewhere, but Blackstone said it was fine and to try 7.5k next time. I just added make-up oil to my wife’s Q, which is running either Castrol or Mobile from dealer.

I’m swapping that to Pennzoil unless I find something better.


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[mageus]

Plan to do The Boss's fronts. Couple questions:

- Can you reuse the caliper bolts?

- Only one person mentioned trouble getting the caliper bolts off. I have a 2' breaker bar; good enough? Can you torque it to 144 lb-ft without the car on a lift?

- Is everyone using thread-lok on the caliper bolts?


TIA.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Plan to do The Boss's fronts. Couple questions:

- Can you reuse the caliper bolts?

- Only one person mentioned trouble getting the caliper bolts off. I have a 2' breaker bar; good enough? Can you torque it to 144 lb-ft without the car on a lift?

- Is everyone using thread-lok on the caliper bolts?


TIA.

Turn wheel to get to caliper bolts and use PB blaster or similar and you should be fine. I was able to get 144LB and used thread lock per my understanding of manual. No life used!

Manual does not state bolts t be replaced and I had no problem with their condition!


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[SQ57]

Just did a F/R full replacement. Zimmerman rotors, Ferante pads.
Great success!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/8175de7cc6ecb05c7b68fc5d982f278d.jpg

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Just did a F/R full replacement. Zimmerman rotors, Ferante pads.
Great success!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211010/8175de7cc6ecb05c7b68fc5d982f278d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using TapatalkNice! The Zimmermans look to be zinc coated? Do you mind sharing the part numbers? How are you liking the Ferante pads?

I'm a little bit upset as it's starting to cool down in the northeast and my brakes are starting the loud squeal on the first brake application after sitting overnight. I re-fitted with OEM pads on my brake job so I have no one to blame but myself.

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[SQ57]

I'm not sure what the part #s are, but these were the only Zimmerman that popped when we looked up options. But i tell you a secret, MSRP prices are soooo inflated as to what mechanics pay for the parts. Almost double!!!
Normally they say to don't go hard on the brakes for about 100 miles , so i did not pushed yo limits , but so far like them. Tgey are zinc coated,and pads are not ceramic, so hopefully no squealing!

So love the setup. Could have gone the cheap route(OEM rear rotors list at $79, MSRP$180), but wanted someting better. I'm tuned and leadfooted.

Wow! Just reminded myself squealing is gone!!!
Was realy bad with OEM rotors/pads...(which served me otherwise well for some 30kSmiles).

Chirboiz,

Bob


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[tcm glx]

Awesome insight on the brake job. I’m getting ready to do mine as well, what’s the latest on best place to grab a set of rotors and pads? FCP Euro, ECS?

[mageus]

I just did the front pads with the brake flush. Rotors were fine so I let those be.

OEM pads were $140 shipped from Bernardi.

- Based on how easy it was to unscrew them, the caliper bolts felt like they had been torqued to <100 lbft.
- There was no thread lock residue on the bolts.

I didn't have a pipe that would fit over the end nut on my torque wrench, so I torqued to 120 (when my back gave out), and used a breaker bar to crank it a little tighter. I used blue lok-tite. Figure it should hold.
I only broke one of the wear sensors. It hadn't worn through yet, so I just zip-tied it out of the way.
It's an easy job if you have enough leverage on your torque wrench.


Thanx for all of the tips in this thread.

[tcm glx]

Anyone..anyone? Good places to buy the parts?

[Charles.waite]

Can’t speak to the Q7 specifically, but I’ve always had good luck buying Centric brand rotors on amazon and eBay. And akebono pads on Amazon.

Sometimes FCP, Europa, or ECS has good pricing though so I always check those out just in case.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Anyone..anyone? Good places to buy the parts?If you plan on keeping the Q for awhile I would recommend FCP because lifetime replacement warranty. My only regret with sticking to OEM is that first squeal you get when the weather starts getting cold. Otherwise, cant beat lifetime replacement with the most out of pocket being your return shipping to them.

If you are looking for a cheap, usually good quality aftermarket brake rotor....
https://www.carid.com/fremax/vented-front-passenger-side-brake-rotor-mpn-bd3649.html

I've heard positive feedback about Fremax products. Other than Fremax there is Centric too.

Good luck

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[tcm glx]

If you plan on keeping the Q for awhile I would recommend FCP because lifetime replacement warranty. My only regret with sticking to OEM is that first squeal you get when the weather starts getting cold. Otherwise, cant beat lifetime replacement with the most out of pocket being your return shipping to them.

If you are looking for a cheap, usually good quality aftermarket brake rotor....
https://www.carid.com/fremax/vented-front-passenger-side-brake-rotor-mpn-bd3649.html

I've heard positive feedback about Fremax products. Other than Fremax there is Centric too.

Good luck

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Thanks for the heads up, I had not paid attention to the warranty that FCP offers, that seals the deal for me.

[blackfunk]

I did my brakes on Sunday past - again - second time in a year - thanks to FCP. I went with Pagid pads instead of TRW this time around we'll see how it holds up over the course of a year. Initial impressions are there's more initial bite and a more progressive feel vs the TRW. I stayed with Zimmerman rotors (new) to keep the comparison similar.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

I did my brakes on Sunday past - again - second time in a year - thanks to FCP. I went with Pagid pads instead of TRW this time around we'll see how it holds up over the course of a year. Initial impressions are there's more initial bite and a more progressive feel vs the TRW. I stayed with Zimmerman rotors (new) to keep the comparison similar.Paid about $300 for OEM pads via FCP.... its starting to squeal again on first brake application in the cooler weather. Didn't know the 4M had Pagid as a brake pad option.

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[meph]

reading the thread... looks like you started with centric posi-quiet then to OEMs.. and still squeals.. trying to figure out with brake pads to buy

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

reading the thread... looks like you started with centric posi-quiet then to OEMs.. and still squeals.. trying to figure out with brake pads to buyThe squealing is super annoying in these colder months. That first brake application or two after pulling out the driveway sounds like a city bus. The centric semi-metallic was the opposite where it was quiet when cold and got louder when they got warm/hot.

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[Charles.waite]

I’ve never had problems with Akebono Ceramics squealing when cold, but my old Q5 and current Q7 both did it pretty badly with OEM pads. At least the Q7s pads don’t dust like crazy like the Q5s pads did. So that’s nice.

When the Q7 is due for brakes fairly soon I’m going to try to find some Akebonos but I can’t recall if compatible pads existed last time I checked…

[meph]

i just checked.. https://akebonobrakes.mypartfinder.com/ no q7 listed

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Happy holidays everyone. I hope that everyone is doing well.

Fyi, my Q is at the dealer possibly getting the brake booster replaced. I started experiencing a squeak and binding brake pedal feel. The sound almost sounds like a low frequency version of sneakers squeaking on a gym floor while playing basketball.

I only have about 4k miles of warranty left so I'm glad it happened now and not after 50k miles.

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[Dispatch20]

After reading this entire thread as part of my research for new front brakes on my 2017 Q7 3.0T, I decided to go with:
1) Fremax rotors (pn: BD3649, $245/pair via Ebay)
2) OE pads (pn: 4M0698151BD, $86/set via Ebay)
3) Bowa brake pad sensors (pn: A098252, $38/set shipped)

Total of about $370 in parts.

I attached some pictures of how the OE rotors have a complex casting that would be ideal for ensuring heat stays within the braking surface and away from the hub (first 3 attached pics). The fremax have a much simpler casting (2 middle attached pics).

I chose the Fremax (Brazilian-made) rotors because I wasn't going to be towing heavy loads and didn't think the more complex, more expensive rotor design would benefit my personal Q7 use case.

The OE rotors I removed were laser etched with the Audi part #, a QR code (last attached pic), and were made by SHW.

It seems like several companies use the same complex casting as OE. It wouldn't surprise me if all these rotors all originated in the same factory. These companies include VNE, SHW, Zimmerman, Centric, and Powerstop. However, the finishing steps such as paint and brake surfacing varies based on the specific company's offering.

My Q7 also had minor brake squeel in reverse on cold brakes. I found that I did not have the second set of anti-rattle spring clips in the TSB. My car had the "large tab" shown in the TSB so I ordered:
4M0615269C ($68/pair shipped). Note that front calipers with the small tab use a different #, so be careful.

I'm pretty happy with the new brakes and rotors. They have a good feel and are silent. No regrets so far. It was a very easy DIY.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220715/2a04df07fc8e8ac31433d9fe807487e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220715/674f5e29e463a76e870c68231fcbd13e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220715/f9c0103c9ce9044ce4c4ad6bc3fc8ace.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220715/9efac8cee9da3e71022f9335cb7814d1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220715/5c1eadf4fafaae1fc946288efa4bd15f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220715/77c38eeb27a9f35bda88bea47006f94d.jpg

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[Dispatch20]

Also, do pay attention to the brake pad warning on the dash! I put about 500 miles on the Q7 after the warning message came on. Due to uneven pad wear, I actually had very little pad left on the inner pads of both calipers. See attached. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220715/56c185d8028fcfb397d81a926d964932.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220715/175d618866328424fdacb2800614c8ea.jpg

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[gmudan59]

Hi .. newbi here can anybody help with the torq spec for “rear” calliper bolts on q8 2021 I am think they are same as q7 .. don’t want to under or over torq .. thanks in advance

[Avant4me]

Has anyone tried the SHW performance front rotors?
They are available on tire rack and claim less weight and better heat management with their "pin" style manufacture

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello and good day all,

Just purchased another set of front rotors and pads to replace on the Q. I am approaching 60K miles and the vibrations at highway speeds are getting really bad.

This time around I went with Zimmerman front rotors and the same OE pads from before. The Zimmerman part# is ZIM-100337475. Looking internally at the vanes, they look directional yet there is no separate part number for right versus left rotors. I spoke to the supplier that I purchased from, and they say that rotor vane directions only affect drilled and/or slotted rotors and not blank style rotors. This is news to me. I wrote an email to Zimmerman themselves to see if they concur with the supplier's response.

Have any of you used the Zimmerman rotors and questioned the rotor vane direction?