Battery replacement 4.0T (S6, S7, RS7)

[LawDawg]

Since there are a number of battery threads people cite to between this forum, and the B8 S4 forum, I thought I'd try and make a more succinct place to find the info for our cars.

When doing their multi-point inspection when I had my DSG serviced, the dealer told me that one of the cells was going out on my battery. I had not problems, but what the hell, why not. They wanted $475 parts/labor. Er...no.

The Audi battery in my car was rated at 950 CCA, and I believe it was size H9. Manufactured by Varta. It was NOT AGM.

This is the battery I bought:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-gold-battery-group-size-h9-950-cca-95r-h9/2130016-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000%7CL3*15597

It's the AutoCraft Gold from Advance Auto Parts. $159 retail, but if you get it online and pick it up at your local store there is a 25% ($40) off discount code you can use on the site. There is also a $22 core charge. All-in, you're looking at $120 once you turn in your old battery.

The AutoCraft is H9, 950 CCA, comes with a BEM code, and is the spitting image of the OE battery. Probably because it's also made by Varta. You can splurge and get the Platinum version, which is AGM, but unless you're tracking, why bother? Mine had a manufacture date of 10/2019, so it's brand spankin' new.

Procedure:
-Take up the trunk liner
-Take out spare
-Remove the tool kit (you have to unsnap the plastic cover holding in the air suspension solenoid)
-Pull out the solenoid and the air lines from the tool kit and set the kit aside
-Unfasten the 3 nuts holding down the air tank, and move it and the solenoid aside without disconnecting the lines
-Unbolt the battery
-Remove breather hose, and "-" and "+" terminals
-Replace battery, put it all back together

TAKE A PICTURE OF BOTH THE BEM CODE OF YOUR OLD, AND THE BEM CODE OF YOUR NEW BATTERY!!!

When it comes time to code the new battery, I think VAG-COM/VCDS has changed over the years, so the instructions online were not exact, but close enough to figure it out.

If I remember correctly on my version of VCDS, it went like this:

19-CAN Gateway
Adaptation
Drop down menu

From the drop-down, there are a lot of options. You are looking for the 3 that reference: The battery ah rating, the manufacturer, and the serial number. I didn't know the ah rating, so I left it as "unknown." The other two I entered based on the BEM code on the new battery:

152100

If any of this is wrong, please chime in, as I don't want to screw anyone up on their replacement.

[bknewtype]

thanks for this. my car actually died last week and I may b looking into a new battery soon

[gk1]

Great info. Thanks.
FWIW Ah rating should be 110 for that battery.
https://res.cloudinary.com/powerreviews/image/upload/f_auto,q_auto,h_768,w_auto/d_portal-no-product-image_ttlfpi.svg/prod/usekdps4xkmuaqr7x8ne.jpg

[gk1]

Also what was the part number on your original battery if you don't mind?
Thanks.

[LawDawg]

I think it was:

4G0915105E

[Blkdoutv]

Wow, I thought I was the only one with a wonky battery, but my 2018 S6 just had the battery replaced at 8k miles during its first service. Anyone else had one replaced this quickly?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[jacobyb]

Mine lasted just under 2 years. Is it weird that when I replaced mine I didn’t have to code anything? I just pulled it out, put the new one in, and that was that...

[WhiteWhiteS7]

Can you tell me why you need to code a battery in Vag-Com? I replaced mine myself 1.5 years ago and replaced it like it was in a Honda Civic with no issues.

[LawDawg]

Supposedly there is a module that controls charging and how it charges is tied to the age and strength of the battery. Think of the battery monitor in a laptop. Apparently it aids in extending the battery life.

You code the new battery to tell the system that it’s dealing with a fresh battery.

Or something like that.

[TexasMyke]

Sadly the dealer got me for $492 a couple of weeks ago for a new battery. They said my battery was reading 428cc and needed 558cc something like that. I drive a lot and didn’t want to be stranded. I did get the same story from the SA about the battery needing to be coded to the car to prevent it from degrading faster.

[LawDawg]

Thanks to gk1 for informing me that my battery should be entered as 110 Ah. I went in with my VCDS yesterday evening to store that value, and when the tool read it, it was already set to 110 Ah. I know for CERTAIN that I stored "unknown" when I coded the battery and put in the new Mfg. and Serial #. So...it looks like the car learned on its own?

[gk1]

Thanks to gk1 for informing me that my battery should be entered as 110 Ah. I went in with my VCDS yesterday evening to store that value, and when the tool read it, it was already set to 110 Ah. I know for CERTAIN that I stored "unknown" when I coded the battery and put in the new Mfg. and Serial #. So...it looks like the car learned on its own?

Cool deal. Perhaps "unknown" is Audi/VCDS speak for "use what was previously there", since I believe the OE battery is also a 110Ah. Either way it is cool it is at 110 now.

FWIW I was curious and reached out to parts and they indicate the current OE battery is 000915105DL which is also 110Ah non-AGM.
I wonder if there is a coding change available to adjust charging system to accommodate AGM batteries.

EDIT: I may have found my own answer. From a VW site so not 100% sure it exists on our cars.
Adaptation channel - IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology.
LawDawg do you recall seeing an option like that?

[Riker]

Can this be done with OBD11 or do you need Vag Com?

[wwhan]

The Ross-tech coding: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement

Forum B8 A4 Battery Replacement - Coding (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/581232-B8-A4-Battery-Replacement-Coding?)

This document explains some of the background on the battery management system: Self-Study Programme SSP 364 Q7 Electrical system, http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_364.pdf

Page 15, Battery J644
"A battery test can be performed using the energy management control unit J644. This test can be started in the Guided Fault Finding mode or the Guided Functions mode under "61-Battery control - A-Battery, test". The energy management control unit calculates from various measured values and the history data the state of the battery and displays the following as a possible result:
– Battery OK
– Charge battery
– Replace battery
In the case of the Audi Q7, it is no longer necessary to test the battery using battery tester VAS 5097A. The advantages of this new test method are:
– It is not necessary to charge the battery prior to the test.
– It is not necessary to disconnect the battery from the onboard power supply.
– It is not necessary to remove the battery."

page24, "Battery replacement
When the vehicle battery is replaced, the energy management control unit J644 must be encoded. This is necessary to adapt the new battery (size, manufacturer, new condition) to the energy management system. Only then will the energy management system function with maximum efficiency and precision. The energy management control unit J644 may only be encoded after a battery is replaced. Otherwise, faults will be produced in the vehicle due to incorrect assessment of the battery state and loss of important history data, which is required, among other things for testing the battery with the VAS tester."

[LawDawg]

The Ross-tech coding: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement

[/I]
The last section in the link you provided, called "Adaptation" is the procedure that I had to use to code my battery.

[phaphaphooey]

I went through this and made a similar thread, albeit less comprehensive, a month or two before yours. Your thread is super helpful. The battery in my car was an AGM H9 and I replaced it with the identical battery you did, used the same coupons and everything. Recoded with Vagcom and no problems since that time. All of the work required to get to the battery in these cars is a little bit silly.

[Bdlpnw2016]

If you are disconnecting battery cause you’re installing say a front grill do you need to do any encoding? Do you just pull off the terminals and do the work and connect it when you done? Everything should work fine after? I was advised to pull the battery to not impact the sensors and cameras on the grille. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[09S5]

Bump


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[OlyS6]

If you are disconnecting battery cause you’re installing say a front grill do you need to do any encoding? Do you just pull off the terminals and do the work and connect it when you done? Everything should work fine after? I was advised to pull the battery to not impact the sensors and cameras on the grille. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, just pull the negative terminal off your battery whenever you are doing either electrical work or taking the bumper with sensors off (also helpful to just cover up the negative terminal in electrical tape or a plastic bag so your negative cable doesn't accidentally touch the negative terminal while you are working). Also helpful whenever working with coolant pumps or fuel pumps so you don't get a spray of liquid if a pump inadvertantly goes off when you open a door or something. Also a must whenever you are working with the CANBUS. If you accidentally try turning on the car and the CANBUS isn't seated correctly, you will get some errors that need to be cleared by the dealer (ask me how I know this). No coding necessary when you do this. For the front end, no need to recalibrate any sensors as long as you are putting the same bumper back on. The car will give a bunch of errors that are difficult to clear without recalibrating if you leave the battery connected and then try to turn the car on without the sensors all put back together.

[Bdlpnw2016]

Yep, just pull the negative terminal off your battery whenever you are doing either electrical work or taking the bumper with sensors off (also helpful to just cover up the negative terminal in electrical tape or a plastic bag so your negative cable doesn't accidentally touch the negative terminal while you are working). Also helpful whenever working with coolant pumps or fuel pumps so you don't get a spray of liquid if a pump inadvertantly goes off when you open a door or something. Also a must whenever you are working with the CANBUS. If you accidentally try turning on the car and the CANBUS isn't seated correctly, you will get some errors that need to be cleared by the dealer (ask me how I know this). No coding necessary when you do this. For the front end, no need to recalibrate any sensors as long as you are putting the same bumper back on. The car will give a bunch of errors that are difficult to clear without recalibrating if you leave the battery connected and then try to turn the car on without the sensors all put back together.

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alabama]

Curious. My S6 came with an AGM battery. The equipment code sticker in the car has the code for an AGM battery. All three major battery manufacturers (Johnson, Exide, East Penn) recommend an AGM battery for an S6. The car has a lot of power options and some of us add more (e.g., dash cam). As someone else mentioned, the coding through VCDS supposedly will increase battery life. For what it's worth, Costco is now selling AGM batteries for this car from Exide under the Interstate brand name.

[gk1]

Curious. My S6 came with an AGM battery. The equipment code sticker in the car has the code for an AGM battery. All three major battery manufacturers (Johnson, Exide, East Penn) recommend an AGM battery for an S6. The car has a lot of power options and some of us add more (e.g., dash cam). As someone else mentioned, the coding through VCDS supposedly will increase battery life. For what it's worth, Costco is now selling AGM batteries for this car from Exide under the Interstate brand name.

Interesting. I wonder what is the determining factor for original AGM battery or not. Can you tell me the exact equipment code option for AGM battery that you have?
It's obviously not a year thing since mine is '15 and OP's is a '13 and both are not AGM and yours is '14 and has AGM along with phaphaphooey's '17 RS7.

[Alabama]

Interesting. I wonder what is the determining factor for original AGM battery or not. Can you tell me the exact equipment code option for AGM battery that you have?
It's obviously not a year thing since mine is '15 and OP's is a '13 and both are not AGM and yours is '14 and has AGM along with phaphaphooey's '17 RS7.

Sure, the equipment code on the sticker is "J0Z", the middle character the number "zero". The car was assembled in Germany. I'm not sure it's related to options as the car doesn't have any factory options that I would think would consume a lot of power. For example, it has the lower power standard Bose audio, not the higher power B&O.

[wangao0316]

Thank you, sub'd

[orphancrippler]

After reading this thread, I decided to take a look at my battery health with VCDS, and it showed 93Ah size and 50% health, so it was time for a change. I bought a Die Hard Platinum H9 950cca 100Ah AGM, and after getting the old one out and new one in, went to re-code with VCDS. In my drop down boxes for battery size, there isn't a choice for 100Ah, only 105 and 95. I took turns selecting both, while monitoring the outputs for things like usable charge, health and capacity %.

Choosing 95Ah, which is 5 under my new battery, caused all sorts of weird readings, like 150% charging status and 105% health, while choosing 105Ah resulted in those numbers dropping to like 95% and 90%. I figured telling the car it has a slightly larger one is better than slightly smaller, as I didn't want to risk anything weird happening with those over 100% readings and however they tie in with the energy management system. If anyone has any ideas on if I made the right decision or not, please let me know. I did find the BEM code, under a warning sticker, and everything else took fine as far as mfr. and serial #, just the size was mismatched a bit.

Sent from my Galaxy S20 Ultra 5G

[pootskoot]

Did anyone ever find out if you can use obdeleven to reset the battery after installing a new one?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[wwhan]

Did anyone ever find out if you can use obdeleven to reset the battery after installing a new one?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

OBDeleven information in these posts may be useful to reset the battery;

"Gateway>Adaptation>Battery Adaptation": https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/9020/changed-starter-battery

"Hi. For battery re-code, do this": https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/8619/battery-coding-start-counter-reset

[Prh]

After reading this thread, I decided to take a look at my battery health with VCDS, and it showed 93Ah size and 50% health, so it was time for a change. I bought a Die Hard Platinum H9 950cca 100Ah AGM, and after getting the old one out and new one in, went to re-code with VCDS. In my drop down boxes for battery size, there isn't a choice for 100Ah, only 105 and 95. I took turns selecting both, while monitoring the outputs for things like usable charge, health and capacity %.

Choosing 95Ah, which is 5 under my new battery, caused all sorts of weird readings, like 150% charging status and 105% health, while choosing 105Ah resulted in those numbers dropping to like 95% and 90%. I figured telling the car it has a slightly larger one is better than slightly smaller, as I didn't want to risk anything weird happening with those over 100% readings and however they tie in with the energy management system. If anyone has any ideas on if I made the right decision or not, please let me know. I did find the BEM code, under a warning sticker, and everything else took fine as far as mfr. and serial #, just the size was mismatched a bit.

Sent from my Galaxy S20 Ultra 5G

Curious on this one as well. I need to replace my non AGM battery in my 14’ S6 and want to go with this one. Currently have 110Ah and strange there isn’t a selection for 100 to match your AGM.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/0e12ef59d65ea77a58d8390ca3f659f5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/11ce6f27f45202d43b24b8eddeb72c24.jpg

How is your electrical holding up so far with your setting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[orphancrippler]

Curious on this one as well. I need to replace my non AGM battery in my 14’ S6 and want to go with this one. Currently have 110Ah and strange there isn’t a selection for 100 to match your AGM.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/0e12ef59d65ea77a58d8390ca3f659f5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201229/11ce6f27f45202d43b24b8eddeb72c24.jpg

How is your electrical holding up so far with your setting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProEverything seems to be perfectly fine. I installed a remote start with an app module, which allows me to see the resting and "engine-on" voltage, and it rests around 12.7v and shows about 14.5v when the car is on. Haven't had any electrical power related issues, starts quickly even in sub-freezing northeast mornings, and has even run my SRM Brushless EMP coolant pump for almost 30 minutes when I forgot to turn the headlights off (relay takes power signal from headlight wire) and had the car in accessory mode, with no problems.

The fact that I had to over-report the size a bit still bugs me. If I had to do it over, I'd have just found an AGM with the CCA I wanted that came in an Ah rating that's available in VCDS. The BEM code, which was hidden under a different mfr. sticker, even references the 100Ah rating, but removing the battery and leaving size as "unknown" just results in it resetting to the last set value when I press "do it" and the channel is re-read.

I'm going to continue to monitor it periodically, and if anything crops up, I'll post it on here. It it also very strange to me that I can't just input whatever Ah rating I want, and that the presents don't include a 100Ah choice.

Sent from my Galaxy S20 Ultra 5G

[mwmaroney1]

Old thread revival here, just wondering how you know if you car has an AGM battery? Is there something listed on the battery itself or do I need to find in vag-com? About to replace mine and want to make sure I get the right one. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[orphancrippler]

Old thread revival here, just wondering how you know if you car has an AGM battery? About to replace mine and want to make sure I get the right one. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Easiest way is to look at it. Some cars got them, some didn't and there doesn't seem to be a comprehensive list of which got what. If your battery doesn't make it clear by looking at it, take the part # or other identifying information and search it online.

As long as you get one with enough CCA and Ah rating, and either code it correctly in VCDS or do the quick "change the last digit of the BEM" trick, you should be good to go.

Sent from my Galaxy S20 Ultra 5G

[mwmaroney1]

Easiest way is to look at it. Some cars got them, some didn't and there doesn't seem to be a comprehensive list of which got what. If your battery doesn't make it clear by looking at it, take the part # or other identifying information and search it online.

As long as you get one with enough CCA and Ah rating, and either code it correctly in VCDS or do the quick "change the last digit of the BEM" trick, you should be good to go.

Sent from my Galaxy S20 Ultra 5GThanks, I'll give her a look tomorrow!

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Alabama]

Old thread revival here, just wondering how you know if you car has an AGM battery? Is there something listed on the battery itself or do I need to find in vag-com? About to replace mine and want to make sure I get the right one. Thanks!

See post #21 above. My car had an AGM but others got a non-AGM. I wonder if the battery is added by the US dealer after the car arrives from Europe. Besides looking at the battery, you can also look at the PR code. My understanding is that AGM relates to quality and durability, while CCA and Ah relate to sizing.

[AaronKamp]

See post #21 above. My car had an AGM but others got a non-AGM. I wonder if the battery is added by the US dealer after the car arrives from Europe. Besides looking at the battery, you can also look at the PR code. My understanding is that AGM relates to quality and durability, while CCA and Ah relate to sizing.

Your battery can also be determined by the production code, which for me was added as a sticker inside the front page of the owners manual instead of being stuck somewhere in the trunk. I used the "Find your battery" selection tool at www.interstatebatteries.com to determine what was in mine. When I pulled the battery out it matched 100% and I had an H8/Group 49 size AGM battery based on production code J0B. I ended up getting an Odyssey 49-950 locally because the Braille B10049 is backordered online everywhere, and mine is doornail dead.

[AudiTurbo4me777]

Is it a good idea to connect a separate battery or trickle charger as to not lose any settings while removing and replacing battery?

[wangao0316]

Is it a good idea to connect a separate battery or trickle charger as to not lose any settings while removing and replacing battery?I connected a battery charger to the terminals in the engine bay when I was replacing mine, and I didn't lose any settings.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[AudiTurbo4me777]

Ok, that's what I was thinking to do. Where did you connect the negative cable. Did you connect to one of the strut bolts?

[mwmaroney1]

So opened up trunk and looking at the battery I don't see AGM listed anywhere but I have the same JOZ code as the guy above who had AGM. That being said, do I need to purchase an AGM or would any other non agm compatible battery work fine? Also, trying to find where in vcds it will let me check my battery heath. What I found online sent me to a module that was grayed out. Thanks. 221024221025

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[MattyMarkey]

So opened up trunk and looking at the battery I don't see AGM listed anywhere but I have the same JOZ code as the guy above who had AGM. That being said, do I need to purchase an AGM or would any other non agm compatible battery work fine? Also, trying to find where in vcds it will let me check my battery heath. What I found online sent me to a module that was grayed out. Thanks. 221024221025

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

BEM code is what you need - you have that based on the pics. Many battery manufacturers should have that code you’ll need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mwmaroney1]

BEM code is what you need - you have that based on the pics. Many battery manufacturers should have that code you’ll need.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkMy main question/concern was AGM VS Non Agm Battery but I think I've figured that out now. Never found the place with vcds to check out battery health but oh well.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[gk1]

My main question/concern was AGM VS Non Agm Battery but I think I've figured that out now. Never found the place with vcds to check out battery health but oh well.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

Yeah I still don't think that is clear.
My car is like yours I have the option code J0Z same as Alabama pointed out in post#23, but I definitely do not have an AGM battery.
AFAIK J0Z just means it is a 520 A (110 Ah) battery as opposed to other sizes.

Mine is a 2015 non-AGM and there is a 2013, 2014 and 2017 in this thread with AGMs. Out of curiosity what year is yours?

From what I have read there are slight differences in charging characteristics for a system designed for AGM batteries vs a system which was not, but how does that translate into the real world C7 I am not sure.
I believe many off-the-shelf AGM batteries are designed to be conventional battery replacements and work in pretty much any automotive application, but I do not know for sure.
Will you get less battery lifespan by using an AGM battery in a charging system not specifically designed for it? I don't know but I am doubtful it will have any real effect at all.

Also fwiw from what I have read the vcds information regarding battery health can be misleading.

[mwmaroney1]

Yeah I still don't think that is clear.
My car is like yours I have the option code J0Z same as Alabama pointed out in post#23, but I definitely do not have an AGM battery.
AFAIK J0Z just means it is a 520 A (110 Ah) battery as opposed to other sizes.

Mine is a 2015 non-AGM and there is a 2013, 2014 and 2017 in this thread with AGMs. Out of curiosity what year is yours?

From what I have read there are slight differences in charging characteristics for a system designed for AGM batteries vs a system which was not, but how does that translate into the real world C7 I am not sure.
I believe many off-the-shelf AGM batteries are designed to be conventional battery replacements and work in pretty much any automotive application, but I do not know for sure.
Will you get less battery lifespan by using an AGM battery in a charging system not specifically designed for it? I don't know but I am doubtful it will have any real effect at all.

Also fwiw from what I have read the vcds information regarding battery health can be misleading.Mine is a 2014, after searching the codes found on my old battery I ended up just going with a non-AGM. It was the right choice, after removing the old one you can clearly hear the liquid inside. I had just read online that if you had AGM and went to non it can have issues but who knows, the new one is in now and working fine. Coding was simple, thanks for everyone's input and the nice write up by the OP.

On a side note Advance Auto doesn't allow coupons on the batteries anymore [emoji107]

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[Alabama]

My car is like yours I have the option code J0Z same as Alabama pointed out in post#23, but I definitely do not have an AGM battery.
AFAIK J0Z just means it is a 520 A (110 Ah) battery as opposed to other sizes.

Moot point, but since my post #23 I downloaded the vehicle specific information for my car from erWin, 183 separate PR codes. PR code J0Z description is "Battery 520 A (110 Ah)" as you note. However, I also have a PR code NY2 on the printout (not on the label in the trunk) which is described as "Increased battery capacity". Maybe that translates to AGM? Anyway, my vague memory of a long-ago conversation with an employee of East Penn Manufacturing is that a main claim for AGM is resistance to vibration, but a high quality non-AGM battery is still a good battery. Since I stiffen up the suspension, road vibration might or might not be an issue so I would pay a few extra bucks for AGM.

[gk1]

Moot point, but since my post #23 I downloaded the vehicle specific information for my car from erWin, 183 separate PR codes. PR code J0Z description is "Battery 520 A (110 Ah)" as you note. However, I also have a PR code NY2 on the printout (not on the label in the trunk) which is described as "Increased battery capacity". Maybe that translates to AGM? Anyway, my vague memory of a long-ago conversation with an employee of East Penn Manufacturing is that a main claim for AGM is resistance to vibration, but a high quality non-AGM battery is still a good battery. Since I stiffen up the suspension, road vibration might or might not be an issue so I would pay a few extra bucks for AGM.

Interesting note, but it does look like NY4 and NY5 are the option for AGM batteries, so it is still a bit of a mystery why some have them and some do not.
NY4 BGK AGM battery and increased alternator capacity
NY5 BGK AGM battery and standard alternator capacity
As you mentioned maybe port installed vs. dealer installed?
Possible example...my car originally came off the boat and was immediately taken to an east coast dealer so it has a flooded cell, but if it took a long train or truck ride to get to the dealer then maybe they swapped in an AGM???
My bet is more just on availability from wherever the battery was installed if they had old flooded cells to get rid of they put them in if not then AGM.
mwmaroney1 , was your car originally a CO car or did it come from someplace else like mine?

[mwmaroney1]

Interesting note, but it does look like NY4 and NY5 are the option for AGM batteries, so it is still a bit of a mystery why some have them and some do not.
NY4 BGK AGM battery and increased alternator capacity
NY5 BGK AGM battery and standard alternator capacity
As you mentioned maybe port installed vs. dealer installed?
Possible example...my car originally came off the boat and was immediately taken to an east coast dealer so it has a flooded cell, but if it took a long train or truck ride to get to the dealer then maybe they swapped in an AGM???
My bet is more just on availability from wherever the battery was installed if they had old flooded cells to get rid of they put them in if not then AGM.
mwmaroney1 , was your car originally a CO car or did it come from someplace else like mine?It was from the east coast originally, had it shipped out here.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[infinitereality]

Thanks for this thread. my '14 is in need of a new battery, as it left me stranded for a bit. Just needed a jump start and all was good to get home.

Reading through to program a new battery, but came across a question. My PR is J0B which the interstate battery website states is H8-AGM. Previous owner did replace the battery at some point (no clue if he coded it) with a AutoCraft H8-AGM. I don't mind going with lead acid to save a few bucks since I'll likely be trading it in within a year, but.... can't determine if this is a bad idea or not. Anyone have AGM and went with a standard battery?

[ItsLarryG]

I took out a H9 size lead acid battery Audi put in at some point before I purchased the car. I replaced with a H9 AGM battery from O’Reilley without any issue.

[135Hoser]

I replaced my battery today for the second time in 3 years of ownership, as Audi refuses to warranty the battery I bought from them unless I pay $200 in diagnostics, which is non-refundable even if their battery is found to be defective. I went to a local parts retailer who sold me an 95R/H9 AGM battery that's 105AH with 950CCA size. It was $200 less than the dealership wanted, coded the info with VCDS, and so far, 4 hours in, nothing has caught fire.

My previous battery had plenty of CCA, but the internal resistance was wrong? I dunno, it failed the dealerships tester and my mechanics tester, so guess it was time to replace.

[VR2V8]

I replaced my battery today for the second time in 3 years of ownership, as Audi refuses to warranty the battery I bought from them unless I pay $200 in diagnostics, which is non-refundable even if their battery is found to be defective. I went to a local parts retailer who sold me an 95R/H9 AGM battery that's 105AH with 950CCA size. It was $200 less than the dealership wanted, coded the info with VCDS, and so far, 4 hours in, nothing has caught fire.

My previous battery had plenty of CCA, but the internal resistance was wrong? I dunno, it failed the dealerships tester and my mechanics tester, so guess it was time to replace.The dealer has replaced the battery on my 2018 twice now under warranty. Audi really needs to use better batteries or design better electrical systems. I've never had a car eat so many batteries, especially a new car.

[Alabama]

Anyone have AGM and went with a standard battery?

Interesting question I have not seen an answer to. Some C7 S6/7 cars are sold with standard, some with AGM. No one seems to know if this is random or if there is some difference in the AGM cars that requires AGM. But here's something interesting. On the Costco/Interstate website, entering info for 2014 S6 with J0Z PR code (mine) shows an AGM H9 battery as the answer, but entering info for 2014 S7 and J0B PR code shows "battery fit not available".

[MattyMarkey]

Interesting question I have not seen an answer to. Some C7 S6/7 cars are sold with standard, some with AGM. No one seems to know if this is random or if there is some difference in the AGM cars that requires AGM. But here's something interesting. On the Costco/Interstate website, entering info for 2014 S6 with J0Z PR code (mine) shows an AGM H9 battery as the answer, but entering info for 2014 S7 and J0B PR code shows "battery fit not available".

Possibly the only thing that makes sense here... the S7 does have more “automatic” features compared to the S6 - soft close doors, power sport hatch. That may make make sense for the reason why it requires a different battery spec.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alabama]

Possibly the only thing that makes sense here... the S7 does have more “automatic” features compared to the S6 - soft close doors, power sport hatch. That may make make sense for the reason why it requires a different battery spec.

Could be, but infinitereality's battery for his S7 is size H8, which while AGM is physically smaller than my H9 AGM and with a little less juice. So not only is there variation in AGM/non-AGM, there is also variation between H8 and H9.

[infinitereality]

Could be, but infinitereality's battery for his S7 is size H8, which while AGM is physically smaller than my H9 AGM and with a little less juice. So not only is there variation in AGM/non-AGM, there is also variation between H8 and H9.

One of the parts stores also suggested, I believe H6 and/or H7 as sizes that would also fit. I'm sticking to H8, just due to that's what the car originally had. Also to play it safe, AGM as well. I should mention when I said I was trading it in, it is for a FL version. I don't think I could be happier in anything else.

224270

[Alabama]

One of the parts stores also suggested, I believe H6 and/or H7 as sizes that would also fit. I'm sticking to H8, just due to that's what the car originally had. Also to play it safe, AGM as well. I should mention when I said I was trading it in, it is for a FL version. I don't think I could be happier in anything else.

Safest decision. One concern is physical dimension of the battery, maybe what the parts store folk were referring to. The H6-H7-H8-H9 all have the same height (190 mm) and width (175 mm); they vary in length: H6-278mm, H7-315mm, H8-356mm, and H9-394mm. So if the car accommodates an H9, it will physically accommodate any of the others. Of course, the different batteries also vary in electrical parameters. Considering the cost of the car and with discounts on AGM, the price difference between AGM/non-AGM over the life of the battery isn't very great. Further, as other AZ threads discuss, these cars have so many electronic components sensitive to power fluctuations, it seems prudent to use a top quality battery. Go crank up that upgraded stereo!

[gk1]

It's understandable than AGM is "better" than flooded however what seems to get overlooked is an AGM can have different charging requirements than a flooded battery. Now for the most part an AGM can directly go where a flooded battery was used, but I don't know or at least have not read anything regarding IF the charging systems are indeed different then perhaps the AGM will suffer (not last as long as it should) if using it to replace a flooded battery.

"AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed (AGM) unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive. "

That being said this may only apply to what could be called "power" AGM batteries like Odyssey or Optima whereas the "regular" AGM's may have a different design to them to purposely replace flooded. I don't know.

These things could be minor and in the grand scheme of things may make little to no difference to most users. If you replace you better every 4 years then it may not matter, but if you happen to get 7+ (like me) from a flooded is it possible that swapping in an AGM may drop that to only 5? Again... irrelevant for many, just something to discuss.

The other question is...do cars with AGM batteries from the factory have a different charging system than cars with flooded systems. Another one I don't know. Perhaps someone can monitor through VCDS or even better a remote voltmeter if on long drives with an AGM battery does the charging voltage drop to between 13.5V-13.8V?

[Alabama]

If you replace you better every 4 years then it may not matter, but if you happen to get 7+ (like me) from a flooded is it possible that swapping in an AGM may drop that to only 5? The other question is...do cars with AGM batteries from the factory have a different charging system than cars with flooded systems. Another one I don't know.

I don't know either, but I bet you're not using a 36 month DieHard from Sears. However, the following quote from the Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association (AASA) implies that the VCDS coding for replacing a battery that many complain about may have more importance than realized: "While the installation of the *battery may be the same for the two battery styles, some vehicles require an extra step to tell the vehicle that the battery has been replaced. Newer vehicles have a Battery Sensor Module or similar systems. These systems require recalibration with a scan tool if the battery is replaced. If the system is not recalibrated, the alternator might overcharge the new battery and cause the battery to fail soon after replacement." So maybe the best answer is to replace type with same type unless one knows how to "tell" the car electronics that the type has changed.

[gk1]

So maybe the best answer is to replace type with same type unless one knows how to "tell" the car electronics that the type has changed.

Exactly. I did not see anyplace to recode from "flooded cell charging" to "AGM charging" last time I looked. It may have more to do with what specific alternator is installed?

[Alabama]

Exactly. I did not see anyplace to recode from "flooded cell charging" to "AGM charging" last time I looked. It may have more to do with what specific alternator is installed?

Ninety pages of "Audi Vehicle Batteries and Energy Management Systems Self-Study Program 972703" and I'm none the wiser. Maybe the BEM system can distinguish flooded from AGM by battery behavior? From the document: "AGM batteries are used in Audi vehicles when the charge/discharge cycle capacity, cold start, and leak protection must be greater than conventional wet batteries." "Energy Management Control Module J644: The Energy Management Control Module is mounted in the trunk near the battery. The control module constantly monitors the battery. It checks the State of Charge (SOC), checks starting capability, and regulates the optimum alternator charging voltage with the engine running. It can apply load reduction and increase idling speed. To reduce the no load current with the engine OFF, the control module deactivates loads over the CAN Bus which prevents excessive battery discharge. This control module has been adapted for use in the A6, with revised software, which shows the battery condition rather than the battery charge level in the MMI display." Oh, well.

[gk1]

Ninety pages of "Audi Vehicle Batteries and Energy Management Systems Self-Study Program 972703" and I'm none the wiser. Maybe the BEM system can distinguish flooded from AGM by battery behavior? From the document: "AGM batteries are used in Audi vehicles when the charge/discharge cycle capacity, cold start, and leak protection must be greater than conventional wet batteries." "Energy Management Control Module J644: The Energy Management Control Module is mounted in the trunk near the battery. The control module constantly monitors the battery. It checks the State of Charge (SOC), checks starting capability, and regulates the optimum alternator charging voltage with the engine running. It can apply load reduction and increase idling speed. To reduce the no load current with the engine OFF, the control module deactivates loads over the CAN Bus which prevents excessive battery discharge. This control module has been adapted for use in the A6, with revised software, which shows the battery condition rather than the battery charge level in the MMI display." Oh, well.

Yep, it certainly seems from that statement that the system can adapt to either battery type, so maybe my hypothesis is true and some people got flooded batteries since they were some "left over" at the time of installation either at the port or at the factory...(I'm not sure where the battery is finally installed.) Good find.

[bknewtype]

Is there any sort of list of approved batteries we can use? Im replacing mine soon and have no idea which to get. Just stick with the specs of my original?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alabama]

Is there any sort of list of approved batteries we can use? Im replacing mine soon and have no idea which to get. Just stick with the specs of my original?

Audi publishes a list of approved motor oils but I've never seen a list of "approved" batteries. The US car batteries are I believe all made by three companies under a wide variety of marketing names. Matching electrical parameters is certainly advised. Matching physical size is probably a good idea to minimize the chance of vibration. Read above to learn about "flooded" versus "AGM". Bottom line, you should not go wrong sticking to the specs of the current battery.

[jobu72]

Just wanted to throw out a "thank you" to everyone who posts stuff like this. I enjoy browsing topics like this just to have more knowledge about vehicles that I own. When problems come up, I already have ideas in mind.

Anyway, this particular thread helped me just last weekend. Was working on a suspected mirror assembly wiring issue, having the car accessories on for extended time. The car starting freaking out, all kinds of errors and warnings, then nothing. Figured battery maybe dead, and yes it was. Turns out, it looks like previous owner replaced the battery with a slightly smaller one, 92ah, and the car was still coded for 110ah. Charged it back up and recoded. Will certainly put in the larger one when needed. That battery has a 2019 date code on it, so I guess no sense in doing it until needed.

But anyway, thank you for posting stuff like this!

[RAF_S7]

This may be useful to anyone thinking of changing their battery.

If you look at your Car PR Codes (Normally found on a label in the trunk or handbook) it should contain one of the indicated PR-XXX codes shown below, which tells you want size of OEM battery you have installed. If replacing, go similar or larger in terms of battery capacity.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/z447/jkwelsh/Screenshot_2021-03-29_at_11.58.58.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/jkwelsh/a/de95d361-5c92-42e2-96ef-afbc81d16638/p/730a50b2-cbe1-4e39-b4e5-b5db6c19ec50)

John.

[jobu72]

This may be useful to anyone thinking of changing their battery.

If you look at your Car PR Codes (Normally found on a label in the trunk or handbook) it should contain one of the indicated PR-XXX codes shown below, which tells you want size of OEM battery you have installed. If replacing, go similar or larger in terms of battery capacity.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/z447/jkwelsh/Screenshot_2021-03-29_at_11.58.58.png?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/jkwelsh/a/de95d361-5c92-42e2-96ef-afbc81d16638/p/730a50b2-cbe1-4e39-b4e5-b5db6c19ec50)

John.

That pretty much confirms if for me. I see a J0Z code. That, along with it having been previously coded as 110AH. Definitely what I'll buy when having to replace it next.

[bknewtype]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210403/52da3d7f8dd5e8b1d6a7f4f407cd586c.jpg
Finally took the time
To check my battery. Gonna order a new one tonight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RAF_S7]

FYI [wrench]

Here (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/926576-New-Battery-Fitted-(S7))

[bknewtype]

Has anyone here ran a new non amg battery on a car that came with an amg battery? I know one person who did and has 0 issues. Just wanted to check if others has positive experience with this

Bout to head out and im torn between getting amg and non amg. Not a huge difference in price ( around 50 including taxes ) but would like to pocket that 50 for lunch if i can [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gk1]

Has anyone here ran a new non amg battery on a car that came with an amg battery? I know one person who did and has 0 issues. Just wanted to check if others has positive experience with this

Bout to head out and im torn between getting amg and non amg. Not a huge difference in price ( around 50 including taxes ) but would like to pocket that 50 for lunch if i can [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd get the AGM....if your car came with an AGM battery. (Not amg..how would you fit a Mercedes in your trunk? [;)] )
It may be fine either way, but replacing flooded with AGM may be one thing (possible undercharging), while replacing AGM with flooded could be a different story (possible overcharging). A 1 user statistical sampling is not really proof that it is a good idea, and even if 10 people chime in without issues after 1 year I still don't know if that would be proof. Again, it may take a while to be an issue (if at all) which may not be an issue to you in the short run. But $50 over 7-8 years or having to purchase a new battery in just 3-4 years because it was not the right type....it's your call, but might ultimately just be splitting hairs.

[bknewtype]

I'd get the AGM....if your car came with an AGM battery. (Not amg..how would you fit a Mercedes in your trunk? [;)] )
It may be fine either way, but replacing flooded with AGM may be one thing (possible undercharging), while replacing AGM with flooded could be a different story (possible overcharging). A 1 user statistical sampling is not really proof that it is a good idea, and even if 10 people chime in without issues after 1 year I still don't know if that would be proof. Again, it may take a while to be an issue (if at all) which may not be an issue to you in the short run. But $50 over 7-8 years or having to purchase a new battery in just 3-4 years because it was not the right type....it's your call, but might ultimately just be splitting hairs.

I had to retype agm like 50 times somewhere else and failed to correct it here [emoji23]

Ur absolutely right thats why i decided to ask that 1 sample is not enough. But to be fair im prob keeping this car for just another 3 years max. But who knows. Either way, ill check to see if they have the agm in stock. This is what im looking at

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/6249cbf8ef167aaa17aeb05ec71a3031.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gk1]

Yeah I am just saying that even if you get 10 affirmative response on this thread (unlikely), is that still a statistically large enough sample? For you, for 3 years, maybe that is good enough. For anyone searching if all 10 said they replaced flooded with AGM 5+ years ago then maybe, but I'm betting anyone who did is still at less than 2 years right now.

Duralast Platinum H9 AGM - $200
Advance Auto DieHard Platinum H9 AGM- $220 (Probably the exact same battery)
OE replacement 000915105CE - $227 (Some dealers are less than $200 but you'd have to check local to you since they are not shipping them.)
Yeah, so they are all roughly the same price.
You could downsize to an H8 AGM they come in around $170 at some places. Might be worth it to shop around.

[bknewtype]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/7e21413fb689afafea9d608e4195e232.jpg

Our babies deserve the best so whatever xD


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alabama]

Duralast Platinum H9 AGM - $200
Advance Auto DieHard Platinum H9 AGM- $220 (Probably the exact same battery)

All the US car batteries are made by either Johnson Controls, Exide, or East Penn. Which company makes which brand may vary over time as contracts change. bknewtype's Varta battery I believe is Johnson Controls and looks to be an H8. From the Varta website: "Keep in mind: an AGM battery must always be replaced with an AGM." To my knowledge there is no problem replacing H8 with H9 size so long as it may be securely mounted.

[bknewtype]

I noticed theres no BEM code on my
New battery. Is that gonna be an issue with coding?

Edit* i just realized i have 0 info on whats required for coding [emoji2365]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gk1]

I noticed theres no BEM code on my
New battery. Is that gonna be an issue with coding?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check under the stickers, but short answer is no. Search, there are plenty of threads about coding batteries and just changing the last digit of the serial number etc. etc.
Although the new one looks to be 100Ah compared to your stock 92Ah so if just change the last digit of the serial number and if you were to look into it the car might display strange percentages somewhere in the measuring blocks. Will it cause an actual issue, unlikely. I would think it is better to have a large battery that the car "thinks" it is smaller than a small battery the car "thinks" is larger.

[bknewtype]

Check under the stickers, but short answer is no. Search, there are plenty of threads about coding batteries and just changing the last digit of the serial number etc. etc.
Although the new one looks to be 100Ah compared to your stock 92Ah so if just change the last digit of the serial number and if you were to look into it the car might display strange percentages somewhere in the measuring blocks. Will it cause an actual issue, unlikely. I would think it is better to have a large battery that the car "thinks" it is smaller than a small battery the car "thinks" is larger.

I looked under the stickers. I have no bem code, no serial number, nothing i basically have no information for any of the coding [emoji2365] lol

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/37f55960cfa6c83dde0335d9362425b6.jpg

This is all that’s under the sticker


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RAF_S7]

I looked under the stickers. I have no bem code, no serial number, nothing i basically have no information for any of the coding [emoji2365] lol

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/37f55960cfa6c83dde0335d9362425b6.jpg

This is all that’s under the sticker


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don’t really need anything to code the new battery.

You can change the serial number of the old battery by one digit, using VCDS, and use the drop down menus to change the battery size to 105Ah. [wrench]

John.

[bknewtype]

You don’t really need anything to code the new battery.

You can change the serial number of the old battery by one digit, using VCDS, and use the drop down menus to change the battery size to 105Ah. [wrench]

John.

Good to know!

Now i have one last question

In vcds i see 2 separate sections that pertains to batteries in adaptations

The first section had pre stored values ( old battery info)

The second section had “ unknown “ as the stored values

Which ones do i update? I actually did the second section ( with stored values stating unknown) without realizing there was another section for battery


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210404/3237caeb07867b3861ca2198309b4325.jpg

And if i was supposed to change the top not the
Bottom set, should i go back and put back to unknown? Or will that even work?

Thanks all so far!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RAF_S7]

You update Battery 1.

Battery 2 is only used when you have a 2nd OEM battery installed (Special order) [drive]

[bknewtype]

You update Battery 1.

Battery 2 is only used when you have a 2nd OEM battery installed (Special order) [drive]

Fml so i updated the wrong one

U think i can just leave the values? Or should i clear them somehow?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RAF_S7]

I’d clear them, and update Battery 1 values.

On my car, battery #2 settings are actually not set.

[bknewtype]

I’d clear them, and update Battery 1 values.

On my car, battery #2 settings are actually not set.

Yea, all the stored values was unknown , and i just updated it [emoji2365]

Hope i can just delete the new value and save as is. Thanks gonna give it a try!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bknewtype]

I was able to undo the manufacture in the second set of battery options. But couldnt clear the serial number since something needs to b entered. I also tried ————- but didnt work. Said it needs an alpha numeric number

Changed the first set of battery options

Vao for manufacture
Added 1 digit to existing serial
And switched to 110ah

If anyone has any ideas about clearing serial number i inputed in the wrong place im all ears

If not i think im finally done [emoji38] thanks everyone for the help!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RAF_S7]

I wouldn’t worry too much about the 2nd Battery info, since that battery is not installed.

You should be fine [drive]

[DoItAllGarage]

Okay, just swapped out my battery and don't code anything. Everything seems normal, no warning lights. My new battery didn't have the BEM codes. I'll keep my fingers crossed [emoji1696].

Sent from my SM-N960U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[bpd]

Okay, just swapped out my battery and don't code anything. Everything seems normal, no warning lights. My battery didn't have the BEM codes. I'll keep my fingers crossed [emoji1696].

Sent from my SM-N960U using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

Did you swap it out with the same spec battery or did you upgrade to higher amp one? Lead acid to agm or vice versa?

[DoItAllGarage]

@bpd ,My PR code was J0Z and I originally purchased the H9 AGM Autozone battery but the guy pushing the cart to my vehicle, tipped over and the battery crashed to the ground and cracked. No other Autozone stores had in stock. This was on a Sunday and I needed a battery that day and Oreilly's was the only one had it in stock. So, I got this one https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/platinum/more-powersport/battery---automotive/battery---best-fit/7272aa5cfedd/super-start-platinum-battery-group-size-95r-h9/ssbq/95rplt

[bpd]

Ok so you went from 520A batt to 950 and no issues. That is good to know. Thought if you put in another 520a then there would be no problem with no coding. Can't believe they put in a weenie batt in our cars. My PR is JOB which is 520a 110ah. Thanks for the info.

[mike0819]

Great info. Thanks.
FWIW Ah rating should be 110 for that battery.
https://res.cloudinary.com/powerreviews/image/upload/f_auto,q_auto,h_768,w_auto/d_portal-no-product-image_ttlfpi.svg/prod/usekdps4xkmuaqr7x8ne.jpgHi does the battery must be code in or it can still work just plug and play? Thanks

Sent from my EVR-AL00 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[RAF_S7]

For those asking about a straight Plug & Play, versus Plug, Code & Play.....

Our cars have an intelligent charging system which constantly monitors a number of conditions, including battery capacity, age and charging characteristics. The charging system then varies the charge being applied in order to maximise the efficiency of the charging and the life of the battery.

Not coding the battery isn't the end of the world if you're replacing like for like, it just means that you wont be charging efficiently, and may shorten the useable lifespan of the battery. If you're swopping like for like, just changing the installed serial number by one digit is enough to be classed as coding the new battery.

If you're upgrading the capacity of the battery then coding is highly recommended, otherwise the whole charging cycle will be out of whack with the installed capacity of the battery, and may result in under charging the battery and significant reduction in useable capacity.

The latest updates to VCDS provide you with drop down menu options for the type of battery installed, so its easy to do [wrench]

[bpd]

Yeah I hear you, even vcds says you should recode.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI&t=142s

But this so called "intelligent" system is flawed. It senses wear, battery condition, etc, etc. But its not so smart when a new battery is changed out. It should sense battery condition when suddenly a new one is installed and make adjustments. All this does is make 99% of owners go to a dealer or indy to recode. It is a revenue based system for dealers. I don't have vcds and don't plan on getting one. I can change a battery out, but would have to go somewhere to get the coding done.
I noticed an owner had their battery changed out twice under warranty for an '18 S6. On mine, I too have the 520a battery, which I consider a weenie battery. I do have to top off the battery using a battery tender once a week since I do not drive it that many miles and I do have a dashcam that is in parking mode for 6hrs or if voltage gets to 12v, whichever comes first. My battery is not defective since it was checked at my last service done in January. I would like to upgrade my batt, but I will just wait till it dies unless I sell the car. I only keep cars an avg 3 yrs. After 2 yrs, I finally hit 10k miles. I traded '17 A6 3.0 and had no battery issues when I had this same dashcam because that battery was higher capacity.

[ichi d]

I have a brand new oem battery that I bought when I got the car because the dealer said it was dying. I never replaced it because the battery that was already on the car charged up and has been working fine for the past 2.5 years. Would this new/old battery that’s never been install still be good to use?

[gk1]

I have a brand new oem battery that I bought when I got the car because the dealer said it was dying. I never replaced it because the battery that was already on the car charged up and has been working fine for the past 2.5 years. Would this new/old battery that’s never been install still be good to use?

Did you keep it on a smart charger for the past 2.5 years?
Was it stored in the shed? Freeze/heat cycles.
The general answer I think is that it is unlikely to still be working after sitting that long unless you maintained it, but stranger things have happened. Definitely try to smart charge it before attempting to use it in any car.

[Alabama]

Did you keep it on a smart charger for the past 2.5 years?
Was it stored in the shed? Freeze/heat cycles.
The general answer I think is that it is unlikely to still be working after sitting that long unless you maintained it, but stranger things have happened. Definitely try to smart charge it before attempting to use it in any car.

A lead/acid battery not being charged will "self-discharge" and undergo a chemical reaction called "sulfation" as it discharges that eventually ruins the battery. I believe Consumer Reports recommends not purchasing a battery more than six months old.

[gk1]

A lead/acid battery not being charged will "self-discharge" and undergo a chemical reaction called "sulfation" as it discharges that eventually ruins the battery. I believe Consumer Reports recommends not purchasing a battery more than six months old.

True...it could be an AGM battery which stores much better too.

[ichi d]

Did you keep it on a smart charger for the past 2.5 years?
Was it stored in the shed? Freeze/heat cycles.
The general answer I think is that it is unlikely to still be working after sitting that long unless you maintained it, but stranger things have happened. Definitely try to smart charge it before attempting to use it in any car.

Damn that sucks. It’s been stored in my basement on a piece of carpet. I guess I’ll just recycle it.

[Alabama]

True...it could be an AGM battery which stores much better too.

Good point. AGM are more resistant to, but not immune from, sulfation. Supposedly there are "battery reconditioning" gizmos that work somewhat differently from a basic trickle charger that might salvage a sulfated battery depending on its condition. ichi d could try a trickle charger first and see what happens. At least stored in the basement the battery wasn't exposed to high heat. However even if it holds a charge its life span is likely shortened.

[Alabama]

Procedure:
-Take up the trunk liner
-Take out spare
-Remove the tool kit (you have to unsnap the plastic cover holding in the air suspension solenoid)
-Pull out the solenoid and the air lines from the tool kit and set the kit aside
-Unfasten the 3 nuts holding down the air tank, and move it and the solenoid aside without disconnecting the lines
-Unbolt the battery
-Remove breather hose, and "-" and "+" terminals
-Replace battery, put it all back together

As usual for me, the part about separating the solenoid from the styrofoam tool kit is not intuitive. In my car the solenoid seems to adhere to the styrofoam as though someone glued it on. I'm reluctant to pull too hard. The erWin description doesn't help me either. Anyone have pictures or a link to a video of the procedure? Thanks in advance.

[Audisthesia]

As usual for me, the part about separating the solenoid from the styrofoam tool kit is not intuitive. In my car the solenoid seems to adhere to the styrofoam as though someone glued it on. I'm reluctant to pull too hard. The erWin description doesn't help me either. Anyone have pictures or a link to a video of the procedure? Thanks in advance.

I just lifted mine out. Its just pushed in there snug, no glue or tabs or anything.



For those asking about a straight Plug & Play, versus Plug, Code & Play.....

Our cars have an intelligent charging system which constantly monitors a number of conditions, including battery capacity, age and charging characteristics. The charging system then varies the charge being applied in order to maximise the efficiency of the charging and the life of the battery.

Not coding the battery isn't the end of the world if you're replacing like for like, it just means that you wont be charging efficiently, and may shorten the useable lifespan of the battery. If you're swopping like for like, just changing the installed serial number by one digit is enough to be classed as coding the new battery.

If you're upgrading the capacity of the battery then coding is highly recommended, otherwise the whole charging cycle will be out of whack with the installed capacity of the battery, and may result in under charging the battery and significant reduction in useable capacity.

The latest updates to VCDS provide you with drop down menu options for the type of battery installed, so its easy to do [wrench]

What do you mean by "type of battery installed"? Are you saying there is now a way to say if battery is AGM or not?

[Alabama]

I just lifted mine out. Its just pushed in there snug, no glue or tabs or anything.

Thanks, that got it. Just really tight but once it started to move all was good.

[jmcarruth]

$758.63 was the total cost to have a five year old AGM battery replaced and coded to "Audi standards" using the "Audi shop rate" for two hours labor at the dealer 80 miles from me. The vehicle is a 2017 RS7.
This is a complete rip off and I have registered a complaint and discussed this with the service manager. He somewhat acknowledged that this is excessive, and admits that it did not take two hours to complete the task (I was not even there that long). He said that he will cut me some slack on my next service. We will see.

At that price, i could have bought four batteries at Advance Auto, who cares if the don't last as long.

[LawDawg]

$758.63 was the total cost to have a five year old AGM battery replaced and coded to "Audi standards" using the "Audi shop rate" for two hours labor at the dealer 80 miles from me. The vehicle is a 2017 RS7.
This is a complete rip off and I have registered a complaint and discussed this with the service manager. He somewhat acknowledged that this is excessive, and admits that it did not take two hours to complete the task (I was not even there that long). He said that he will cut me some slack on my next service. We will see.

At that price, i could have bought four batteries at Advance Auto, who cares if the don't last as long.

That’s borderline criminal. Ok, not really, but you get my point. I’d lodge a complaint with AoA.

[LawDawg]

The battery I described in my original post in this thread is literally identical to the Audi battery that it replaced in my S6. It was visually identical, except for a few stickers, and it was manufactured by the same manufacturer. There is literally no reason on earth to spend the money on an Audi battery if you’re out of warranty. Unless you want the Audi logo on your battery.In which case, you’re spending several hundred additional dollars for a logo that no one will ever see until the battery is replaced again. I hope no one else reading this thread gets their battery replaced out of warranty at a dealership. SMH. Sorry that happened to you man.

[gk1]

$758.63 was the total cost to have a five year old AGM battery replaced and coded to "Audi standards" using the "Audi shop rate" for two hours labor at the dealer 80 miles from me. The vehicle is a 2017 RS7.
This is a complete rip off and I have registered a complaint and discussed this with the service manager. He somewhat acknowledged that this is excessive, and admits that it did not take two hours to complete the task (I was not even there that long). He said that he will cut me some slack on my next service. We will see.

At that price, i could have bought four batteries at Advance Auto, who cares if the don't last as long.

The"RS tax" maybe, similar to the "Porsche tax". I Can't image how much it costs to replace a battery on a Ferrari or Lamborghini, and an Urus is no different than an RSQ8.

FWIW
2017 RS7 battery MSRP = $410...should be no surprise there that it is more expensive than aftermarket even though it offers nothing more than an aftermarket battery would.
And as mentioned they are probably allowed to charge book rate for 2 hours of labor even if it only takes them 15 minutes to do...$175 per hour sounds about right for Audi labor rates depending where you live. I am actually surprised your service manager felt it was excessive and agreed to give you a discount next time.

[gk1]

The battery I described in my original post in this thread is literally identical to the Audi battery that it replaced in my S6. It was visually identical, except for a few stickers, and it was manufactured by the same manufacturer. There is literally no reason on earth to spend the money on an Audi battery if you’re out of warranty. Unless you want the Audi logo on your battery.In which case, you’re spending several hundred additional dollars for a logo that no one will ever see until the battery is replaced again. I hope no one else reading this thread gets their battery replaced out of warranty at a dealership. SMH. Sorry that happened to you man.

From what I have seen for some models the battery itself is not too much more than aftermarket.
The Diehard battery is $170 for the S6 and the Audi OE battery is $227 MSRP you can probably get it for about $195 without much effort just by asking. As I mentioned they seem to charge an "RS tax" that nearly doubles the price of virtually the same battery and that is a shame but not surprising.

[Audisthesia]

$758.63 was the total cost to have a five year old AGM battery replaced and coded to "Audi standards" using the "Audi shop rate" for two hours labor at the dealer 80 miles from me. The vehicle is a 2017 RS7.
This is a complete rip off and I have registered a complaint and discussed this with the service manager. He somewhat acknowledged that this is excessive, and admits that it did not take two hours to complete the task (I was not even there that long). He said that he will cut me some slack on my next service. We will see.

At that price, i could have bought four batteries at Advance Auto, who cares if the don't last as long.


FYI there's only 3 companies making these batteries for our cars. Audi uses one of them. I have a 2018 S6, it already went through 2 OEM Audi batteries. I wasn't about to go for #3. So I did it myself. (FYI battery #1 was original on the car, #2 was warranty replacement of #1 in 2019)

H8 AGM Upgraded capacity battery (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h8-900-cca-h8-agm/10210828-P) $219

H9 AGM Battery Link (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h9-950-cca-h9-agm/10866724-P) $219

2 hours shop labor LMFAO. Install yourself in 10 minutes, its not hard.

[Alabama]

2017 RS7 battery MSRP = $410.

Something odd here. 2017 RS7 lists two acceptable battery part numbers: 000915105CF at $410, and 000915105DLDSP at $227 (and at least one Audi dealer discounts this to about $190). The second part is one of several listed for my 2014 S6. The Audi parts website gives little information about the batteries to understand the differences, and no PR codes to match up to the car. As you say, maybe an "RS tax" for the unwary. Maybe jmcarruth can share what PR battery code is listed for the original battery on the sticker in the trunk.

[09S5]

FYI there's only 3 companies making these batteries for our cars. Audi uses one of them. I have a 2018 S6, it already went through 2 OEM Audi batteries. I wasn't about to go for #3. So I did it myself. (FYI battery #1 was original on the car, #2 was warranty replacement of #1 in 2019)

Upgraded capacity battery (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h8-900-cca-h8-agm/10210828-P) $219

2 hours shop labor LMFAO. Install yourself in 10 minutes, its not hard.Appreciate that link for the battery.

Does the car tells you when you need to replace the battery? Or somewhere in the VCDS?

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

[Alabama]

Upgraded capacity battery (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h8-900-cca-h8-agm/10210828-P) $219.

That link is to an H8 size AGM. Some of our cars can physically accommodate an H9 size battery as well (my OEM size).

[Audisthesia]

Appreciate that link for the battery.

Does the car tells you when you need to replace the battery? Or somewhere in the VCDS?

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

You will get messages in DIS and/or errors. For example, I got sport diff errors when battery was dying...
Now, if you open up VCDS, you'll see far more low voltage errors in various modules...



That link is to an H8 size AGM. Some of our cars can physically accommodate an H9 size battery as well (my OEM size).

Oh my bad, I linked the wrong one. Thanks for pointing that out. I put H9 in mine. The H8 of course would still work, its rated 95ah/900CCA (still more capacity than the OEM battery); the H9 is 100ah 950CCA.

Correct Battery Link (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-platinum-agm-battery-group-size-h9-950-cca-h9-agm/10866724-P) Still $219 though hehe

https://i.ibb.co/VxJvhCb/IMAGE-06302021.jpg (https://ibb.co/NrtLkNf)

[gk1]

Something odd here. 2017 RS7 lists two acceptable battery part numbers: 000915105CF at $410, and 000915105DLDSP at $227 (and at least one Audi dealer discounts this to about $190). The second part is one of several listed for my 2014 S6. The Audi parts website gives little information about the batteries to understand the differences, and no PR codes to match up to the car. As you say, maybe an "RS tax" for the unwary. Maybe jmcarruth can share what PR battery code is listed for the original battery on the sticker in the trunk.

Yep Audi battery p/n are a pain sometimes.
I think the 000915105CF is AGM 105Ah
and
000915105DLDSP is conventional flooded 110Ah.
Which brings us back to the age old debate we've had ...which did your car come with originally...I know mine is flooded from new, but others haver AGM in same and older than mine....kind of a crapshoot.

[Audisthesia]

2018 S6 Prestige, came with AGM

[09S5]

Thank you.

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

[HenryAWD]

$758.63 was the total cost to have a five year old AGM battery replaced and coded to "Audi standards" using the "Audi shop rate" for two hours labor at the dealer 80 miles from me. The vehicle is a 2017 RS7.
This is a complete rip off and I have registered a complaint and discussed this with the service manager. He somewhat acknowledged that this is excessive, and admits that it did not take two hours to complete the task (I was not even there that long). He said that he will cut me some slack on my next service. We will see.

At that price, i could have bought four batteries at Advance Auto, who cares if the don't last as long.

Wow. I think I paid about $450 or so. Audi offered a discount as I remember them starting $525. Definitely look at another dealership next time.