Liqui Moly Molygen - any users? Thought?

[fesmail]

Hi all

Curious if any of you are using this and any thoughts?

Thanks

[03redgti]

Hi all

Curious if any of you are using this and any thoughts?

Thanks

its the same as the regular liqui moly just with a green dye in it so you can see leaks.

[fesmail]

its the same as the regular liqui moly just with a green dye in it so you can see leaks.

So their claim of additional anti friction additives is BS? Some test have shown increase in power and projected longer engine life......

[hilmar2k]

its the same as the regular liqui moly just with a green dye in it so you can see leaks.No it's not. Unless you can provide something that confirms that.

[jimrobbington]

I use regular liquimoly and love it. Burns less oil in the S4 than any other oil I've tried.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[Acejam]

VW 502 approved only. That’s why I run Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5W-40 and you should too.

Bonus points for ordering from FCP Euro and getting free oil changes for life.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TC_S4]

Since my Audi Care services are over, while ago, I got rid of the Castrol oil and use exclusively Motul X-cess 5w40 or Liquimoly Leichtlauf 5w40. After watching some video from LiquiMoly, apparently their best oil is Molygen beside the fact you can detect leak, with the ultraviolet light is a bonus. Anyone tried??

[awwturbo]

I just started using the Molygen this past oil change. Since I've had this car I've been Castrol Professional OE for all the oil changes. I typically go through 1-1.5 quarts per oil change depending on how hard I drive the car. Oil changes every 5,000 miles. I've only put 1,000 miles on the Molygen, but it's holding up pretty well so far. Depending on how it looks for the next oil change, I'll probably stick with the Molygen.

[peterpark0]

During the Fall I run whatever the Audi dealer puts in. And in the Spring I switch to the Green oil. Honeslty I cant tell the difference, I still burn almost a 3/4quart of oil every 5,000 miles. But I like the fact that it's green!!

[Lbsigman]

VW 502 approved only. That’s why I run Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5W-40 and you should too.

Bonus points for ordering from FCP Euro and getting free oil changes for life.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This! I personally don't like Liqui Moly, but you are right, Moly Gen is only "recommended" but not 502 approved or on Audi's approved oil list.

https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/Audi-2017-Technical-Service-Bulletin-1.22.2018.pdf

[peterpark0]

This! I personally don't like Liqui Moly, but you are right, Moly Gen is only "recommended" but not 502 approved or on Audi's approved oil list.

https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/Audi-2017-Technical-Service-Bulletin-1.22.2018.pdf

If you don't mind me asking, why don't you like Liqui Moly??

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

We've been running Molygen in most of our shop cars (including the B8 S4) since it's release, the cars all seem to love it. Now that being said, Lbsigman is correct due to the additive packages in Molygen it does not have the Audi seal of approval, but its' still a fantastic oil.

James

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4-Quattro-3.0T/Engine/Oil_Service/

[BucDan]

I'm curious to see a virgin oil analysis on it vs the leichtlauf.

[hmc2261]

Personally I use the Molygen. I find it to be a great oil.

[chi123]

I've been using Leichtlauf for a while and decided to buy a jug of Molygen to top off my oil and to possibly use on the next oil change. Pretty much every start-up after adding the Molygen, I've been getting the start-up rattle with the timing chain tensioners. Unless it's because these two oils can't be mixed, I'm going to stick with Leichlauf.

[Lbsigman]

If you don't mind me asking, why don't you like Liqui Moly??

Additional noise on startup similar to when I tried Mobil1 0W40 and oil consumption just like Mobil1 0W40. I get no startup noise with Castrol & Motul nor do I get any burn off after 5,000 miles. Obviously, YMMV. I will be giving Shell Helix (Pennzoil Platinum Euro) a shot here next oil change.

What I don't like is the term "recommended" that Liqui Moly and other oil manufacturers use. In my own opinion, it should either be black or white, "Factory Approved" with a letter from the auto manufacturer or not mentioned at all on the bottle.

[Silver Streakin]

Additional noise on startup similar to when I tried Mobil1 0W40 and oil consumption just like Mobil1 0W40. I get no startup noise with Castrol & Motul nor do I get any burn off after 5,000 miles. Obviously, YMMV. I will be giving Shell Helix (Pennzoil Platinum Euro) a shot here next oil change.

What I don't like is the term "recommended" that Liqui Moly and other oil manufacturers use. In my own opinion, it should either be black or white, "Factory Approved" with a letter from the auto manufacturer or not mentioned at all on the bottle.

Liqui Moly Leichtlauf HT 5w40 meets the VW 502 and 505 requirements and is an approved 502/505. FCP Euro even has VW's letter in the ad pictures.

Please keep in mind that an oil may meet the approvals, but VW/Audi may just not have paid to test it and approve it. Most separate these lists on the bottles.

Also, these approvals can expire. Therefore, it's possible an oil label may need to change to recommended if they don't get it approved (again) on time.

I'll keep using it.

I have used it I'm my 2007 S4 DTM with the 4.2 V8 that is prone to timing chain issues and oil consumption. PO used M1 0w40 and I went through a full qt to get to the 5k interval. Switching to LM Synthetic 5w40, I went to almost none... maybe 1/4-1/2 near 3500-4000 into an oil change.

In my B8 S4, PO used a shop who used Castrol 5w40. No complaints. But liking the LM, it's been great the last 50K+ miles and 9 changes, coming up on #10 at 100k miles. Same as the V8, this motor uses a tiny bit around 3k ...I just topped off 1/4 qt at 98.x miles. No startup rattle.

Results may vary, since it seems some motors like different oils and it could based on climate and how it's driven.

Only true way to tell is get yourself a sample to Blackstone for a report and analysis.

[Lbsigman]

Liqui Moly Leichtlauf HT 5w40 meets the VW 502 and 505 requirements and is an approved 502/505. FCP Euro even has VW's letter in the ad pictures.

Please keep in mind that an oil may meet the approvals, but VW/Audi may just not have paid to test it and approve it. Most separate these lists on the bottles.

Also, these approvals can expire. Therefore, it's possible an oil label may need to change to recommended if they don't get it approved (again) on time.

I'll keep using it.

I have used it I'm my 2007 S4 DTM with the 4.2 V8 that is prone to timing chain issues and oil consumption. PO used M1 0w40 and I went through a full qt to get to the 5k interval. Switching to LM Synthetic 5w40, I went to almost none... maybe 1/4-1/2 near 3500-4000 into an oil change.

In my B8 S4, PO used a shop who used Castrol 5w40. No complaints. But liking the LM, it's been great the last 50K+ miles and 9 changes, coming up on #10 at 100k miles. Same as the V8, this motor uses a tiny bit around 3k ...I just topped off 1/4 qt at 98.x miles. No startup rattle.

Results may vary, since it seems some motors like different oils and it could based on climate and how it's driven.

Only true way to tell is get yourself a sample to Blackstone for a report and analysis.

I know Leichtlauf is approved, but I was mainly referring to Molygen, the topic of this thread. When it comes to oil, different strokes for different folks, so go with what works best for you. [up]

[hilmar2k]

I am running Molygen but will either be going back to Leichtlauf or to Motul, as the timing chain rattle is much worse since I've run Molygen (last 2 oil changes).

[TC_S4]

Ok, since the general consensus of the Molygen has no wow factors, I'll stick with Motul and Leichtlauf, since they serve me well till now.

[Silver Streakin]

I know Leichtlauf is approved, but I was mainly referring to Molygen, the topic of this thread. When it comes to oil, different strokes for different folks, so go with what works best for you. [up]

Oh, my bad... I completely missed that.

My guess is that they just haven't gotten the approval done (yet ?) from VW. if LM recommends it, it should be fine.

[Lbsigman]

Oh, my bad... I completely missed that.

My guess is that they just haven't gotten the approval done (yet ?) from VW. if LM recommends it, it should be fine.

For sure it'll be fine, no doubt about it. Just like people who run Rotella T because of how stout the oil is. Will it work, sure, but I'm not going to bet on my engine or my catalytic convertors (ceteris paribus) with a non-factory approved oil.

[Silver Streakin]

For sure it'll be fine, no doubt about it. Just like people who run Rotella T because of how stout the oil is. Will it work, sure, but I'm not going to bet on my engine or my catalytic convertors (ceteris paribus) with a non-factory approved oil.

Yup, LM knows their oils and if the one passes, then they'd know if another of their oils would pass. They wouldn't risk their brand to try to sell you an oil that isn't going to protect the motor.

I used the M1 5w40 TDT oil in my B5 once it was stage 3. We trusted those oils because there were lots of people posting BlackStone reports. We tested and approved it ourselves.

If you need peace of mind, stick with an approved oil.

[RatBustard]

Ok, since the general consensus of the Molygen has no wow factors, I'll stick with Motul and Leichtlauf, since they serve me well till now.

if you want the UV properties of Molygen to look for a leak, you can buy a bottle of Cummins (or similar) fluorescent oil tracer (PN: 3376891). one 8oz bottle is good for something like 10gal of oil.

[Waffles_s4]

Since this is an S4 forum, and I am gonna guess that people will drive this car like an S4 and not an A4, and considering many S4s are tuned, I will assume that people high rev their engines (4000-6000+ RPM) on here. If they dont, and drive it like a 80 yrs old nanny, probably any of the oils mentioned on this OP thread would be just fine.

Now, for those who drive the S4 like an S4, the oil Viscosity at a certain temp becomes important.

So for the Liqui Molygen as well as the Leichtlauf HighTech 5W40, that data is:

https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000330/3863-LeichtlaufHighTech5W-40-38.0-en.pdf

https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P001758/8576-MolygenNewGeneration5W-40-43.0-en.pdf

at 100C: 14,0 mm²/s
at 150C (referred to as HTHS) its 3.5


Now if you compare that to the good ol Motul Xcess 8100 5w40:
at 100C: 14.2 mm²/s
at 150C: 3.73

In other words, as oil temp gets higher, the Motul will provide better lubrication than both products of Liqui, and that is even more true as temps exceed 100C. At least, based on the data above.

Last note: since I put the Motul (vs the Castrol crap the Dealer uses), the startup chain tensionner rattle is practically almost gone. Meaning, for every 10 times I hear it with the Castrol, its about 1 or 2 times with the Motul oil. Thats a pretty significant difference.

Another note: I have not tried the Liqui oils on my S4 yet. I did use it on my older A4 Stage 2, and I never really had an issue, but those two cars are completely different in terms of engine/turbo.

[Silver Streakin]

Since this is an S4 forum, and I am gonna guess that people will drive this car like an S4 and not an A4, and considering many S4s are tuned, I will assume that people high rev their engines (4000-6000+ RPM) on here. If they dont, and drive it like a 80 yrs old nanny, probably any of the oils mentioned on this OP thread would be just fine.

Now, for those who drive the S4 like an S4, the oil Viscosity at a certain temp becomes important.

So for the Liqui Molygen as well as the Leichtlauf HighTech 5W40, that data is:

https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000330/3863-LeichtlaufHighTech5W-40-38.0-en.pdf

https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P001758/8576-MolygenNewGeneration5W-40-43.0-en.pdf

at 100C: 14,0 mm²/s
at 150C (referred to as HTHS) its 3.5


Now if you compare that to the good ol Motul Xcess 8100 5w40:
at 100C: 14.2 mm²/s
at 150C: 3.73

In other words, as oil temp gets higher, the Motul will provide better lubrication than both products of Liqui, and that is even more true as temps exceed 100C. At least, based on the data above.

Last note: since I put the Motul (vs the Castrol crap the Dealer uses), the startup chain tensionner rattle is practically almost gone. Meaning, for every 10 times I hear it with the Castrol, its about 1 or 2 times with the Motul oil. Thats a pretty significant difference.

Another note: I have not tried the Liqui oils on my S4 yet. I did use it on my older A4 Stage 2, and I never really had an issue, but those two cars are completely different in terms of engine/turbo.

That is such a small insignificant difference at operating temp as well as at high shear.

And nobody is seeing 300F anyway, unless they're on a road course in 100F+ heat and having cooling issues.

You'll be fine with any Audi approved or recommended oil, which many of them are 13.X-14.x and 3.5-3.8

Changing it is more important to me. People going by the MMI are nuts. I've changed oils at 5k in all my cars for 20+ years. Last car that wasn't synthetic and 5k was my Audi 90 back when there wasn't a 15w40 in synthetic and Castrol HD 15w40 was perfect and on the shelves. every 3k. Sold it with 120k. And next owner did the same for a few years/miles until it was totaled by someone headed on at slow speed in their neighborhood.

[Waffles_s4]

That is such a small insignificant difference at operating temp as well as at high shear.

And nobody is seeing 300F anyway, unless they're on a road course in 100F+ heat and having cooling issues.

You'll be fine with any Audi approved or recommended oil, which many of them are 13.X-14.x and 3.5-3.8

Changing it is more important to me. People going by the MMI are nuts. I've changed oils at 5k in all my cars for 20+ years. Last car that wasn't synthetic and 5k was my Audi 90 back when there wasn't a 15w40 in synthetic and Castrol HD 15w40 was perfect and on the shelves. every 3k. Sold it with 120k. And next owner did the same for a few years/miles until it was totaled by someone headed on at slow speed in their neighborhood.

Well ask yourself, if two oils are the same price (as is the case for me, in Canada), why would you go with the one offering less protection at high revs (or high temp, which ever way you look at it)? I dont see any reason to use Liqui, which has worse specs under high heat. The frequency of oil change is, I agree, very important, but changing at 5000KM using Motul would actually be better than changing the same 5000K with Molygen or Leichtlauf.

So really, what does Liqui offers that motul does not in this case? Other than being made in Germany which I care less about!

[A4x]

Well ask yourself, if two oils are the same price (as is the case for me, in Canada), why would you go with the one offering less protection at high revs (or high temp, which ever way you look at it)? I dont see any reason to use Liqui, which has worse specs under high heat. The frequency of oil change is, I agree, very important, but changing at 5000KM using Motul would actually be better than changing the same 5000K with Molygen or Leichtlauf.

So really, what does Liqui offers that motul does not in this case? Other than being made in Germany which I care less about!

The difference of 0.2 mm2/s is minuscule and insignificant. The oil probably has larger batch to batch variation than this. As soon as you throw the new oil into your engine mixing with whatever remaining old oil is left, the viscosity will change further.

Liqui Moly and Motul are both very good oils. Use either one with confidence and change at 5000-7500 miles.

[awwturbo]

Well ask yourself, if two oils are the same price (as is the case for me, in Canada), why would you go with the one offering less protection at high revs (or high temp, which ever way you look at it)? I dont see any reason to use Liqui, which has worse specs under high heat. The frequency of oil change is, I agree, very important, but changing at 5000KM using Motul would actually be better than changing the same 5000K with Molygen or Leichtlauf.

So really, what does Liqui offers that motul does not in this case? Other than being made in Germany which I care less about!

The price difference for the Motul is that it is $12.00 more for a 5 liter container than the Molygen.

[Silver Streakin]

Well ask yourself, if two oils are the same price (as is the case for me, in Canada), why would you go with the one offering less protection at high revs (or high temp, which ever way you look at it)? I dont see any reason to use Liqui, which has worse specs under high heat. The frequency of oil change is, I agree, very important, but changing at 5000KM using Motul would actually be better than changing the same 5000K with Molygen or Leichtlauf.

So really, what does Liqui offers that motul does not in this case? Other than being made in Germany which I care less about!



There's not enough difference to matter between the 2.

[Waffles_s4]

There's not enough difference to matter between the 2.Well the difference between 3.5 and 3.75 is significant for me (~7%).

It's the same difference between 3.75 and 4.0. I mean, if we say each 0.25 is not important, then the difference between 3.5 and 4.0 is not all that important, but it's actually ~14%.

On paper, I don't see any advantages for liqui, pricing aside. Quiet the opposite

[grovlet]

FYI - the Molygen details in this thread are different than what's listed on the website:
MolyGen Product PDF (https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P001758/8576-MolygenNewGenerationSAE5W-40-43.0-us.pdf)
SythOil Product PDF (https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000345/2040-SynthoilPremiumSAE5W-40-21.0-us.pdf)

Essentially Molgen & Synthoil are both listed below 3.5 HTHS @ 302F / 150C ..... Also note both are VW 502/505 Rated - so no issues there[:p]

So it's not really an issue - BUT I did find that Molygen produced more noise at startup vs the standard SythOil[headbang]? So for me I've gone back to Standard with 5K changes....[:p][:D]

[awwturbo]

FYI - the Molygen details in this thread are different than what's listed on the website:
MolyGen Product PDF (https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P001758/8576-MolygenNewGenerationSAE5W-40-43.0-us.pdf)
SythOil Product PDF (https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000345/2040-SynthoilPremiumSAE5W-40-21.0-us.pdf)

Essentially Molgen & Synthoil are both listed below 3.5 HTHS @ 302F / 150C ..... Also note both are VW 502/505 Rated - so no issues there[:p]

So it's not really an issue - BUT I did find that Molygen produced more noise at startup vs the standard SythOil[headbang]? So for me I've gone back to Standard with 5K changes....[:p][:D]

Meant to quote Waffles_S4:

"Well the difference between 3.5 and 3.75 is significant for me (~7%).

It's the same difference between 3.75 and 4.0. I mean, if we say each 0.25 is not important, then the difference between 3.5 and 4.0 is not all that important, but it's actually ~14%.

On paper, I don't see any advantages for liqui, pricing aside. Quiet the opposite"

I get what you are saying. If this car was being road crossed frequently to see oil temps that high, then yes it will matter (perhaps). On the hottest day in the hottest summer, I never see oil temps get close to that. If you are seeing anywhere near 302F you better look at other issues... Also, the most I do is probably a 4 gear run, 2-3 1/4 runs and so forth so the .25 difference is really negligible. Whos to say what the REAL difference is at normal operating temps, lets say 230f-250f (i'm usually in the 220f-225f in summer)? I'd like to see the data on that. But honestly, it's not worth the extra $12.00 for me to switch to the Motul for a daily driven car.

Bottom line is just use what you like.

[A4x]

Motul 5L jug is $38 on Amazon (price fluctuates, I have seen it as low as $34).

Liqui Moly is $37.

Both are a great deal.

The Molygen is $38.40.

[BucDan]

Motul 5L jug is $38 on Amazon (price fluctuates, I have seen it as low as $34).

Liqui Moly is $37.

Both are a great deal.

The Molygen is $38.40.

Some people would argue Castrol 0W-40 every 5K and call it a day ~$22-$25 5qt

[Snowmonkey]

I used Molygen for the first time last spring, and come to think of it, I have no noticed the start up rattle as much as i used to. Now, that could be because I'm so used to it now, but I used to notice it at almost every startup.I cannot remember thinking "there's that rattle again" since Ive done that oil change. I bought it as a full oil change kit from FCP euro so I look forward to returning the oil and getting replacements for free. Cost was only a few dollars more over the Liechtauf (sp?) so i figured why not?


Edit: cold start rattle is still present, however it was definitely less intense than when I bought the car so might be improved? About 3200 miles on this oil

[Waffles_s4]

FYI - the Molygen details in this thread are different than what's listed on the website:
MolyGen Product PDF (https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P001758/8576-MolygenNewGenerationSAE5W-40-43.0-us.pdf)
SythOil Product PDF (https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000345/2040-SynthoilPremiumSAE5W-40-21.0-us.pdf)

Essentially Molgen & Synthoil are both listed below 3.5 HTHS @ 302F / 150C ..... Also note both are VW 502/505 Rated - so no issues there[:p]

So it's not really an issue - BUT I did find that Molygen produced more noise at startup vs the standard SythOil[headbang]? So for me I've gone back to Standard with 5K changes....[:p][:D]Please stop spreading false info. My numbers are based on info present on liqui molly own site. Practically none of the info you quoted is accurate.

Molygen is not approved by audi/vw. It's recommended only, not approved. Big difference.

Second the numbers you quoted are also not accurate, I posted the link in my previous thread.

Motul did stop startup rattling for me, so why would u use oil that would introduce it rather than get rid of it??

[Waffles_s4]

Meant to quote Waffles_S4:

"Well the difference between 3.5 and 3.75 is significant for me (~7%).

It's the same difference between 3.75 and 4.0. I mean, if we say each 0.25 is not important, then the difference between 3.5 and 4.0 is not all that important, but it's actually ~14%.

On paper, I don't see any advantages for liqui, pricing aside. Quiet the opposite"

I get what you are saying. If this car was being road crossed frequently to see oil temps that high, then yes it will matter (perhaps). On the hottest day in the hottest summer, I never see oil temps get close to that. If you are seeing anywhere near 302F you better look at other issues... Also, the most I do is probably a 4 gear run, 2-3 1/4 runs and so forth so the .25 difference is really negligible. Whos to say what the REAL difference is at normal operating temps, lets say 230f-250f (i'm usually in the 220f-225f in summer)? I'd like to see the data on that. But honestly, it's not worth the extra $12.00 for me to switch to the Motul for a daily driven car.

Bottom line is just use what you like.I agree. But this is for your own use case. All the data for other oil temps is in my link. Motul also has the data for their stuff in their own site. I presented the facts, decision is always yours :)

[Waffles_s4]

Some people would argue Castrol 0W-40 every 5K and call it a day ~$22-$25 5qtWhy would u ever run 0w40 all year, summer included? Just not smart. It's 0 Winter. 0 in winter is better yes.

5W in summer works always Better.

[Waffles_s4]

I used Molygen for the first time last spring, and come to think of it, I have no noticed the start up rattle as much as i used to. Now, that could be because I'm so used to it now, but I used to notice it at almost every startup.I cannot remember thinking "there's that rattle again" since Ive done that oil change. I bought it as a full oil change kit from FCP euro so I look forward to returning the oil and getting replacements for free. Cost was only a few dollars more over the Liechtauf (sp?) so i figured why not?


Edit: cold start rattle is still present, however it was definitely less intense than when I bought the car so might be improved? About 3200 miles on this oilI have heard the rattle one time out of ten versus the Castrol the dealer uses. Also the more I add kms on the car since the motul oil change, the less the rattle occurs. The last 10 cold startups had zero rattle. Have not tried liqui.

[BucDan]

0w or 5w means nothing between the two seasons. You're interpreting the weights wrong.

[Silver Streakin]

Why would u ever run 0w40 all year, summer included? Just not smart. It's 0 Winter. 0 in winter is better yes.

5W in summer works always Better.

Wrong.

Heat protection is the second number... why we use a 0/5w40 v 0/5w30.

If you're in a colder climate for winters, you may want to drop to a 0w40 from 5w40. But it can't hurt running a 0w40 in summer.

[BucDan]

Wrong.

Heat protection is the second number... why we use a 0/5w40 v 0/5w30.

If you're in a colder climate for winters, you may want to drop to a 0w40 from 5w40. But it can't hurt running a 0w40 in summer.

Even then, 5W can be used for temps as low as 10F. If you're in a sub zero area, yeah, use 0w.

[djn876]

5W is good down to -30C.

[hilmar2k]

5W is good down to -30C.

Or -22F for those who are Celsius impaired. [:D]

[grovlet]

Please stop spreading false info. My numbers are based on info present on liqui molly own site. Practically none of the info you quoted is accurate.

Molygen is not approved by audi/vw. It's recommended only, not approved. Big difference.

Second the numbers you quoted are also not accurate, I posted the link in my previous thread.

Motul did stop startup rattling for me, so why would u use oil that would introduce it rather than get rid of it??

LOL - OK BIG GUY - did you click my links..... Direct Links to Liqui-Moly site as well...... FYI - YOUR Links are from a non us site - so MAYBE the US Version is better and VW approved...

I'm simply pointing out the discrepancy between your data and what I found on the Liqui Moly US Site....

SO - I'll leave it to anyone interested to review the details and make their own choice - since I really don't have much stake in what oil any person chooses - it's up to them....

[Waffles_s4]

LOL - OK BIG GUY - did you click my links..... Direct Links to Liqui-Moly site as well...... FYI - YOUR Links are from a non us site - so MAYBE the US Version is better and VW approved...

I'm simply pointing out the discrepancy between your data and what I found on the Liqui Moly US Site....

SO - I'll leave it to anyone interested to review the details and make their own choice - since I really don't have much stake in what oil any person chooses - it's up to them....I did click your links and it still says recommend, not approved. Did you change the link or something? I don't get it.

Anyway, question for everyone: does that fluorescent effect lasts for the life of the oil change, or it dies down after 2000km or less?

I cannot find official confirmation on that.

[Waffles_s4]

Wrong.

Heat protection is the second number... why we use a 0/5w40 v 0/5w30.

If you're in a colder climate for winters, you may want to drop to a 0w40 from 5w40. But it can't hurt running a 0w40 in summer.
In most cases you can run 0w40 and 5w40 all year in most environments without issues, but I really don't see why would u run 0w40 vs 5w40 in a country where its hot all year? Any logical explanation?

[BucDan]

In most cases you can run 0w40 and 5w40 all year in most environments without issues, but I really don't see why would u run 0w40 vs 5w40 in a country where its hot all year? Any logical explanation?

Because the xW shouldn't really matter anyway if you're in a warm climate. The winter rating is just the flow when it's extremely cold out, that's it. The 40 weight is for when the car is at operating temp. I think you're putting too much thought into the xW rating. Oils in the past used to be a single weight, and not a light and heavy oil blend that has additives to hold the proper oil weight at operating temp while stay thin when cold.

The winter rating really doesn't matter to 99% of the people on this planet. As referenced above, it's just the flow rating at a very cold temp during startup. Being in San Diego, could I use 10w-40 should it exist for our cars? Of course as I "technically" don't have use for the 0W or 5W rating. Does it change anything if I use 0W or 5W in the grand scheme of things? No, my oil will still flow just fine at operating temp.

If you want to get into the deeper product itself, 0W oils use a lot more group 4 oils than 5W oils which uses mostly group 3 oils. The problem with 0W is that it requires more additives to stay within range as a 40 weight oil when at operating temp.

The guys on bobistheoilguy really taught me a lot about oil.

[RatBustard]

I did click your links and it still says recommend, not approved. Did you change the link or something? I don't get it.

Anyway, question for everyone: does that fluorescent effect lasts for the life of the oil change, or it dies down after 2000km or less?

I cannot find official confirmation on that.

should last the life of the oil interval. the oil will be dark, but should still retain the fluorescent properties.

[Waffles_s4]

should last the life of the oil interval. the oil will be dark, but should still retain the fluorescent properties.I agree that it should in theory, but in practice, can anyone confirm?

[Snowmonkey]

I agree that it should in theory, but in practice, can anyone confirm?

I read that it stops glowing after a few days. Ill check mine today but i believe i read on the bottle that its only ~~food~~ GOOD for 36 hrs after initial oil change

[hilmar2k]

I read that it stops glowing after a few days. Ill check mine today but i believe i read on the bottle that its only food for 36 hrs after initial oil change

You should never eat it.

[Snowmonkey]

You should never eat it.

Im sorry, i thought this was AMERICA

[hilmar2k]

Im sorry, i thought this was AMERICA

I said you shouldn't eat it.

[Waffles_s4]

I read that it stops glowing after a few days. Ill check mine today but i believe i read on the bottle that its only ~~food~~ GOOD for 36 hrs after initial oil changeSo this whole glow is valid for 36 hours? What's the point to do an oil change and not be able to trace a leak beyond 36 hours or a few days?

[hilmar2k]

So I've been running Molygen for the last couple oil changes. In that time, cold start rattle has increased in frequency, to basically every start now. I'm not due for an oil change, but I ordered some Motul which will be here today. I ran it in my TT and my A6 and they seemed to like it. My A6 4.2 (notorious for chain rattle) only rattled once in maybe 10-15 cold starts running Motul, even with 175k miles on it. I'm hoping for similar results in my S4. I'll know soon enough as I'm changing the oil this afternoon. I'll report back.....

[Waffles_s4]

So I've been running Molygen for the last couple oil changes. In that time, cold start rattle has increased in frequency, to basically every start now. I'm not due for an oil change, but I ordered some Motul which will be here today. I ran it in my TT and my A6 and they seemed to like it. My A6 4.2 (notorious for chain rattle) only rattled once in maybe 10-15 cold starts running Motul, even with 175k miles on it. I'm hoping for similar results in my S4. I'll know soon enough as I'm changing the oil this afternoon. I'll report back.....Do report back, and can u check if your oil still glows with a uv flash light?

Motul stopped my rattles completely

[hilmar2k]

Do report back, and can u check if your oil still glows with a uv flash light?

Motul stopped my rattles completelyMolygen did not glow. At least not enough to be helpful. I'll report back in a few days regarding cold start rattle.

EDIT: Too soon to tell about the rattle, but my engine runs way smoother with Motul. First time I've ever noticed a difference switching oils. Not sure why I switch from Motul to Liquimoly in the first place, but Motul seems like the better choice for the S4 so far.

[hilmar2k]

One more update. Two cold starts today, and zero rattle. First time in a year that I didn't get rattle on the first start of the day.

[Waffles_s4]

One more update. Two cold starts today, and zero rattle. First time in a year that I didn't get rattle on the first start of the day.Same for me when I switched to motul.

Engine runs smooth as butter when I listen to it under the hood.

Motul FTW.

[hilmar2k]

Same for me when I switched to motul.

Engine runs smooth as butter when I listen to it under the hood.

Motul FTW.It really is unbelievable that oil can make as big of a difference as it seemingly does.

[Waffles_s4]

I used (and still to some extent) experiment a lot of different oils, for different reasons. Marketing plays a huge role why people buy a specific oil, rather than based on actual usage and trial and error.

My conclusion is that some oils work better on some engines than others, some oils stop noises, while others stop oil loss or burning, and some are better in high Rpm driving than others.

So far in all cases, motul has not let me down, regardless of what and why.

If you track your car, 300v is better suited but it has to be changed at a much faster interval.

I will try the motul x-clean

I have not tried Xmas yet. I will at some point, the 0w40 x-max.

[BucDan]

I used (and still to some extent) experiment a lot of different oils, for different reasons. Marketing plays a huge role why people buy a specific oil, rather than based on actual usage and trial and error.

My conclusion is that some oils work better on some engines than others, some oils stop noises, while others stop oil loss or burning, and some are better in high Rpm driving than others.

So far in all cases, motul has not let me down, regardless of what and why.

If you track your car, 300v is better suited but it has to be changed at a much faster interval.

I will try the motul x-clean

I have not tried Xmas yet. I will at some point, the 0w40 x-max.

X-Max is supposed to be a lower tier than XCess. I'm intrigued on X-Clean for catalytic converter reasons.

[Waffles_s4]

X-Max is supposed to be a lower tier than XCess. I'm intrigued on X-Clean for catalytic converter reasons.

Good point. From what I can find though, only X-max carries the 0w40 grade.

X-clean is supposed to have lower carbon buildups since it might burn less than the others. Would be hard to confirm that though

[Niksreaperb8]

Audi’s recommendations are shit. Their factory oil is shit. They want your motor to blow so you buy a new one which you will.
I used to burn oil like crazy in all my Audi’s
Now I only use liqui moly and change religiously at approximately 3k. Doesn’t burn an oz
Changed to the moly gen, no noticeable difference but apparently leak free

[Waffles_s4]

Audi’s recommendations are shit. Their factory oil is shit. They want your motor to blow so you buy a new one which you will.
I used to burn oil like crazy in all my Audi’s
Now I only use liqui moly and change religiously at approximately 3k. Doesn’t burn an oz
Changed to the moly gen, no noticeable difference but apparently leak freeMost Audi's beyond 2015 don't burn oil. Even with the stock factory shit oil. I am driven by results: I try something, and compare it to other stuff, if the results can be proven, I state the facts.

Otherwise, we will be buried in a lot of bullshit, unproven crap, false claims, marketing, and advertising. All of which cost owners a fuck load of money.

[Lbsigman]

Good point. From what I can find though, only X-max carries the 0w40 grade.

X-clean is supposed to have lower carbon buildups since it might burn less than the others. Would be hard to confirm that though

X-Clean 5W40 is a Mid SAPS (sulphated ash, phosphorus and sulphur) oil vs. X-Cess and X-Max are Full SAPS oil. Yes, in theory, X-Clean will be easier on the cats, which is why it's popular with the Subie guys/gals. I am running it in my S4 right now and do not burn a lick of oil within 5,000 miles.

[Waffles_s4]

X-Clean 5W40 is a Mid SAPS (sulphated ash, phosphorus and sulphur) oil vs. X-Cess and X-Max are Full SAPS oil. Yes, in theory, X-Clean will be easier on the cats, which is why it's popular with the Subie guys/gals. I am running it in my S4 right now and do not burn a lick of oil within 5,000 miles.Nice thx for the info.

But besides oil burning are there any advantages of x-clean vs xcess? Will xclean really help with the carbon buildup, which is a major issue on this engine?

[Lbsigman]

Nice thx for the info.

But besides oil burning are there any advantages of x-clean vs xcess? Will xclean really help with the carbon buildup, which is a major issue on this engine?

Major issue with this engine? I've heard it is a problem for some, but not all. As for X-Clean healing with carbon buildup, I think it's a good start, but there are too many variables that can lead to excessive carbon buildup such as:
- Condition of PCV system
- Quality of gas
- Condition of ignition system
- Driving style & habits
- Quality of oil
- Miles on the engine
- Etc. etc. etc.

Statements above are my own personal, non-professional opinion.

[Waffles_s4]

Major issue with this engine? I've heard it is a problem for some, but not all. As for X-Clean healing with carbon buildup, I think it's a good start, but there are too many variables that can lead to excessive carbon buildup such as:
- Condition of PCV system
- Quality of gas
- Condition of ignition system
- Driving style & habits
- Quality of oil
- Miles on the engine
- Etc. etc. etc.

Statements above are my own personal, non-professional opinion.

Any DI engine will surely have carbon buildup as u know, not as much as the previous generations (the older RS4s) but its still definitely there. Why are you surprised to hear that its a major issue with this engine?

[Lbsigman]

Any DI engine will surely have carbon buildup as u know, not as much as the previous generations (the older RS4s) but its still definitely there. Why are you surprised to hear that its a major issue with this engine?

I'm surprised because it's not as bad as you're making it out to be. I get that all DI engines will have carbon buildup, but again, the pictures I've seen here don't depict being as serious as something like a BMW N54. Maybe the pre 2012 guys will have it worse off than the newer guys due to the revised PCV system, I dunno? I still wouldn't call it a "major" issue.

Examples, mind you, they are higher mileage cars:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/791640-Is-there-a-carbon-buildup-issue-on-the-B8-5s
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/596777-Carbon-Buildup-on-the-3-0-TFSI-Pics! (He specifically states it's "not as bad as it looks".)

But hey, I'm not knocking you, so if you think it's a major issue, then more power to you. Lets not derail the topic here about Molygen and/or oil.