Oil coolers... what did you end up with?

[EROtero]

I've been researching the subject of aftermarket oil cooling my A3 (now stage 2+ APR) as I will be doing more autocross and track. I know that Racingline makes a kit, but the cooler core is too small and not ideal for track use. I think I will go with a Mishimoto race unit, but am undecided on how to interface it with the engine.

ECS sells this (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-iabed-industries-parts/mqb-ea8883-06l-oil-cooler-feed-plate/462-635-0010~iab/) adapter which replaces the oem cooler. Not sure I want to do that so I rather keep the oem cooler and have this secondary cooler connected to the oil filter assembly with a "sandwich" thermostatic adapter like this (http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-cooler-adapters/oil-filter-sandwich-plate-with-thermostat-for-oil-coolers-p-832.html) unit. The problem is I haven't found one that will fit with our plastic oil housing style design.

What are your experiences on this and suggestions?

[MikTip]

The DSG needs a cooler too...

[EROtero]

The DSG needs a cooler too...

got that covered thanks!

[rex_racer]

CSF offers an upgraded main rad and auxiliary rad. They are said to actually maintain and control both water and oil cooler temps since the factory oil cooler is temperature controlled with the rad. For autox you won't need so much cooling, but in heavy track use they will become more beneficial.

[EROtero]

Rex, you are correct, autocross is not as demanding as track, but on a typical MidWest summer hot day, which gets to almost %100 humidity, I have seen oil temps spike to 240F* by the second autocross run. I am just preparing for heavier track use as well as being preventative. I have seen numerous people go to track and end up going home on a flatbed by midday, all because they did not have the proper cooling.

CSF is actually the company I looked at for DSG cooling upgrade. I really like their approach to problem solving by keeping the base design intact while offering much more efficient cooling at higher stress scenarios. I thought about going with both the DSG and upgraded radiator units and might do so, but I also like the idea of having a piggy back more efficient dedicated oil cooler. If you know of anyone who makes such adapter please share the info.

[rex_racer]

Rex, you are correct, autocross is not as demanding as track, but on a typical MidWest summer hot day, which gets to almost %100 humidity, I have seen oil temps spike to 240F* by the second autocross run. I am just preparing for heavier track use as well as being preventative. I have seen numerous people go to track and end up going home on a flatbed by midday, all because they did not have the proper cooling.

CSF is actually the company I looked at for DSG cooling upgrade. I really like their approach to problem solving by keeping the base design intact while offering much more efficient cooling at higher stress scenarios. I thought about going with both the DSG and upgraded radiator units and might do so, but I also like the idea of having a piggy back more efficient dedicated oil cooler. If you know of anyone who makes such adapter please share the info.

Unfortunately there is not such bolt in upgrade kit available currently. As you already know the Racingline kit is useless. I would start by going with all 3 CSF radiators. I personally prefer to keep the OEM water/air cooler as it will help the oil come up to temp as well. It is quite easy for a cooler to cool too much and cause oil temperature related damage. Ducting is often overlooked and can bring down temps another 10-15 degrees. I would spend some time ensuring you have adequate ducting that seals nicely w/ the bumper cover. Don't let the air spill over and lose pressure. Ensuring the grills/covers does not block airflow is also paramount.

There is a kit in the works from a smaller firm utilizing a multi pass, MUCH larger rad and a thermostat to better control heating and cooling the oil. It is much more involved and does introduce additional failure points. Unsure how necessary this is if you have better coolant cooling.

[Gberg888]

Can you use the CSF cores for daily driving?

[theweebabyseamus]

Rex, you are correct, autocross is not as demanding as track, but on a typical MidWest summer hot day, which gets to almost %100 humidity, I have seen oil temps spike to 240F* by the second autocross run. I am just preparing for heavier track use as well as being preventative. I have seen numerous people go to track and end up going home on a flatbed by midday, all because they did not have the proper cooling.

CSF is actually the company I looked at for DSG cooling upgrade. I really like their approach to problem solving by keeping the base design intact while offering much more efficient cooling at higher stress scenarios. I thought about going with both the DSG and upgraded radiator units and might do so, but I also like the idea of having a piggy back more efficient dedicated oil cooler. If you know of anyone who makes such adapter please share the info.

I mean...not that big a deal though on your oil temps if you have a good synthetic. I would really get concerned until 270* personally. 335/135s run 230-240 during normal operations.

[EROtero]

Unfortunately there is not such bolt in upgrade kit available currently. As you already know the Racingline kit is useless. I would start by going with all 3 CSF radiators. I personally prefer to keep the OEM water/air cooler as it will help the oil come up to temp as well. It is quite easy for a cooler to cool too much and cause oil temperature related damage. Ducting is often overlooked and can bring down temps another 10-15 degrees. I would spend some time ensuring you have adequate ducting that seals nicely w/ the bumper cover. Don't let the air spill over and lose pressure. Ensuring the grills/covers does not block airflow is also paramount.

There is a kit in the works from a smaller firm utilizing a multi pass, MUCH larger rad and a thermostat to better control heating and cooling the oil. It is much more involved and does introduce additional failure points. Unsure how necessary this is if you have better coolant cooling.

3 CSF radiators? I am confused... From their webpage the MQB kit only includes 2 rads here (https://csfrace.com/csf-cooling-releases-the-missing-link-for-the-mqb-platform/). Am I missing something?

[Gberg888]

Its 2 radiators and 1 dsg cooler.

[EROtero]

Its 2 radiators and 1 dsg cooler.

Ok! I get it now. I could run a combination of 2, the main radiator with the dsg cooler, or a combination of 3, the main radiator with a cooler on each side behind the bumper one for dsg and the other for aux cooling (piggyback) to main radiator. Great, thanks for the info, I think I might go this route as it seems the safest in keeping oem design.

[mroberte]

So you really only have three options. Racelines kit, but the cooler is too small imo. Iabed sandwich plate and source your own cooler and katecool which is the same design as iabed, but we'll overpriced, but full kit.

I went with iabeds kit with an8 lines, permacool thermostat and a b&m cooler mounted in the passenger side wheel well.

eBay has plate designs that replace the oem cooler like iabed and katecool too which are substantially cheaper.

I have the dsg plate too, just need to hook it up. I suggest getting a larger oil pan to help temps and oil starvation too. Running the iabed pan because it's the only true baffled solution.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/4c5b961d4e9f1eeda686050d94f92861.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/7c096d89cd7d5fd0a951ab1e04282088.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/be54ce2c771cf4cd10261641ff7e0aff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/aa35a1d9e24cac4d1b0f4f1c1ee7f661.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/b2415a6c0f126621e7cb74db289c1f27.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/18f5e092323010d35d4cb3c28206ee89.jpg

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[EROtero]

Sweet setup! Thanks for your suggestions.

[EROtero]

mroberte, how did you go about removing oem heat exchanger and installing the iAbed plate? Did you remove the entire front assembly (service mode), or did you go from under the car? It looks very tight in there with very little visibility from above. How difficult was it? I am assuming both engine oil and coolant had to be flushed before installing, correct?!?!

I am leaning towards getting the Racingline kit and upgrading the cooler just for ease of installation. It's just hard to spend $600 and then have to spend another $200 on a proper cooler on top of that, plus inline thermostat and other bits.

[mroberte]

mroberte, how did you go about removing oem heat exchanger and installing the iAbed plate? Did you remove the entire front assembly (service mode), or did you go from under the car? It looks very tight in there with very little visibility from above. How difficult was it? I am assuming both engine oil and coolant had to be flushed before installing, correct?!?!

I am leaning towards getting the Racingline kit and upgrading the cooler just for ease of installation. It's just hard to spend $600 and then have to spend another $200 on a proper cooler on top of that, plus inline thermostat and other bits.You basically take the intake manifold off, then remove the water pump... Or remove the metal bracket from the engine but the AC and alternator is on that too. Remove the oem piece between and replace.

If you take front bumper off it's easier, bit the. You need to deal with removing the radiator and ac condenser. Water pump removal is easiest option.

Either way it's not a quick or easy process. Then route the hoses, etc. Considering the price difference of the iabed and vwr, it's worth it to have more options since you can piece it together to your liking.

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[gvazquez]

So you really only have three options. Racelines kit, but the cooler is too small imo. Iabed sandwich plate and source your own cooler and katecool which is the same design as iabed, but we'll overpriced, but full kit.

I went with iabeds kit with an8 lines, permacool thermostat and a b&m cooler mounted in the passenger side wheel well.

eBay has plate designs that replace the oem cooler like iabed and katecool too which are substantially cheaper.

I have the dsg plate too, just need to hook it up. I suggest getting a larger oil pan to help temps and oil starvation too. Running the iabed pan because it's the only true baffled solution.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/4c5b961d4e9f1eeda686050d94f92861.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/7c096d89cd7d5fd0a951ab1e04282088.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/be54ce2c771cf4cd10261641ff7e0aff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/aa35a1d9e24cac4d1b0f4f1c1ee7f661.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/b2415a6c0f126621e7cb74db289c1f27.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/18f5e092323010d35d4cb3c28206ee89.jpg

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Can you post a link to different sandwich plate designs one could use that serve the same purpose as iabed kit? I'm not understanding why anyone would spend 245$ on iabed adapter when you can spend 70$ on a basic sandwich plate thing. Unless I'm missing something, in that case someone inform me

[EROtero]

Can you post a link to different sandwich plate designs one could use that serve the same purpose as iabed kit? I'm not understanding why anyone would spend 245$ on iabed adapter when you can spend 70$ on a basic sandwich plate thing. Unless I'm missing something, in that case someone inform me

The issue is not finding a sandwich plate. The issue is finding the adapter that converts the oem plastic filter housing to use screw-on filters, then you can use any sandwich adapter you want. Nobody makes this adapter as of yet. Only Racingline makes it and is only sold as a kit, not separate. Hopefully soon others will catch up and offer this adapter as a single item.

[mroberte]

The issue is not finding a sandwich plate. The issue is finding the adapter that converts the oem plastic filter housing to use screw-on filters, then you can use any sandwich adapter you want. Nobody makes this adapter as of yet. Only Racingline makes it and is only sold as a kit, not separate. Hopefully soon others will catch up and offer this adapter as a single item.You won't find an adapter. The oil filter housing also houses a flow valve so you'd need to compensate for that too. Only the vwr system currently it's the only one and the release was delayed because of the flow valve complicating the product. Wish VW used a traditional oil filter system as we'd have so many options.

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[gvazquez]

You won't find an adapter. The oil filter housing also houses a flow valve so you'd need to compensate for that too. Only the vwr system currently it's the only one and the release was delayed because of the flow valve complicating the product. Wish VW used a traditional oil filter system as we'd have so many options.

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Do you have a link to these Ebay plate designs similar to iabed? Would you also trust using those assuming they function just like what you have now?

[Spinnetti]

Seems like DSG is most urgent for cooling - after only a few 4-5 runs at the dragstrip in cool weather, I was getting trans warnings. Slippery road of mods... hard to just do 20 when 3 more might be good lol.

[mroberte]

Do you have a link to these Ebay plate designs similar to iabed? Would you also trust using those assuming they function just like what you have now?Check this one, basically comes with everything you need.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F19 2437275471

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[mroberte]

Seems like DSG is most urgent for cooling - after only a few 4-5 runs at the dragstrip in cool weather, I was getting trans warnings. Slippery road of mods... hard to just do 20 when 3 more might be good lol.Sure your not slipping? Have a dsg tune? Should last alot longer than 4-5 runs.

Last time I got dsg overheating was a track day in 105° weather.

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[EROtero]

DSG tune will take care of part of it, but still need to cool the fluids. I went with this icecap (https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1908) for that. Just got the cap and will buy a separate cooler and make my own lines. I live in Columbus, OH home of Jegs and get a good discount there. Unlike the S3, my A3 does not have the auxiliary cooler so only option I have is to add a dedicated one. I will eventually replace the radiator as well, but for now a dedicated oil and DGS coolers will suffice.

[mroberte]

DSG tune will take care of part of it, but still need to cool the fluids. I went with this icecap (https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1908) for that. Just got the cap and will buy a separate cooler and make my own lines. I live in Columbus, OH home of Jegs and get a good discount there. Unlike the S3, my A3 does not have the auxiliary cooler so only option I have is to add a dedicated one. I will eventually replace the radiator as well, but for now a dedicated oil and DGS coolers will suffice.I have an A3 too. Only had one dsg overheat message in a full year of tracking the car. I'd look into making sure you have enough fluid or if it's indeed slipping.

The mechatronics unit also goes into limp mode and the actuators could eventually get stuck. Not a cheap fix.

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[EROtero]

I have an A3 too. Only had one dsg overheat message in a full year of tracking the car. I'd look into making sure you have enough fluid or if it's indeed slipping.

The mechatronics unit also goes into limp mode and the actuators could eventually get stuck. Not a cheap fix.

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I have never had issues with DSG overheating. Just doing it as preventative measure.

[Spinnetti]

Sure your not slipping? Have a dsg tune? Should last alot longer than 4-5 runs.

Last time I got dsg overheating was a track day in 105° weather.

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Not sure. Stage II with DSG tune. Tires were a bit tall (taller than stock). Ran bang on 12.1 every run. Maybe shouldn't have turned car off between runs?

[Spinnetti]

Check this one, basically comes with everything you need.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F19 2437275471

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Nice deal, but eliminates the "heat exchange" portion of the circuit. Better if it was a sandwich plate underneath the DSG heat exchanger. Trans won't get to operating temp as quick. Is that an issue? Not sure.

[EROtero]

Nice deal, but eliminates the "heat exchange" portion of the circuit. Better if it was a sandwich plate underneath the DSG heat exchanger. Trans won't get to operating temp as quick. Is that an issue? Not sure.

That particular kit is for engine cooler replacement (replaces the oil heat exchanger under the intake manifold not the dsg transmission). The ICECAP does replace the heat exchanger on top of DSG and helps discipate heat to atmosphere during heavy use. Based on my conversations with prople who have used (and still use) the ICECAP they have had no issues with DSG coming up to working temps. I will be getting a P3 gauge (or the likes) to keep an eye on things.

[Spinnetti]

That particular kit is for engine cooler replacement (replaces the oil heat exchanger under the intake manifold not the dsg transmission). The ICECAP does replace the heat exchanger on top of DSG and helps discipate heat to atmosphere during heavy use. Based on my conversations with prople who have used (and still use) the ICECAP they have had no issues with DSG coming up to working temps. I will be getting a P3 gauge (or the likes) to keep an eye on things.

Thx..

[mroberte]

Thx..For the engine oil side, if you live in a cold area, I'd suggest adding a thermostat to control the oil temps.

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[mroberte]

That particular kit is for engine cooler replacement (replaces the oil heat exchanger under the intake manifold not the dsg transmission). The ICECAP does replace the heat exchanger on top of DSG and helps discipate heat to atmosphere during heavy use. Based on my conversations with prople who have used (and still use) the ICECAP they have had no issues with DSG coming up to working temps. I will be getting a P3 gauge (or the likes) to keep an eye on things.Glad to also hear the dsg is doing well. Many argued with me about the dsg pump could not flow the amount of oil, which made no sense as it flows almost three times the volume as the oil pump

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[MikTip]

APR wrote the V2.8 ECU tune has this:

-Coolant temperature protection routines were tweaked to more aggressively protect the engine under extreme track conditions.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/867858-V2-8-ECU-Upgrade-Now-Available-for-MK7-Golf-R-S3-TTS-(North-America)

[Gberg888]

So, on a S3 that is used as a daily in New England. I am a spirited driver usually.

The car will see at-least one track day unless I hate it on track which i doubt I will. Anyways, it will get driven daily in the winter, so I am asking whether or not the coolers are a good idea for this kind of use?

[EROtero]

So, on a S3 that is used as a daily in New England. I am a spirited driver usually.

The car will see at-least one track day unless I hate it on track which i doubt I will. Anyways, it will get driven daily in the winter, so I am asking whether or not the coolers are a good idea for this kind of use?

With a proper thermostat setup in between there should be no issues.

[mroberte]

So, on a S3 that is used as a daily in New England. I am a spirited driver usually.

The car will see at-least one track day unless I hate it on track which i doubt I will. Anyways, it will get driven daily in the winter, so I am asking whether or not the coolers are a good idea for this kind of use?I would get an oil cooler setup only if you plan on tracking your car alot. The S3 is already setup with many water to oil coolers over the A3 so your temperatures will be okay... Especially if only going one every so often.

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[gvazquez]

I would get an oil cooler setup only if you plan on tracking your car alot. The S3 is already setup with many water to oil coolers over the A3 so your temperatures will be okay... Especially if only going one every so often.

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I live in NC and the winters here aren't terrible. Do I still need a thermostat setup for the oil cooler?

[Gberg888]

I live in NC and the winters here aren't terrible. Do I still need a thermostat setup for the oil cooler?

Thats exactly my worry. Without a thermostat your oil may never reach the proper temps... With a thermostat it will open and close of the cooler as needed.

[EROtero]

what device are you all using to get DSG oil temps? P3 gauge or something similar?

[mroberte]

what device are you all using to get DSG oil temps? P3 gauge or something similar?You'll need to use an normal temperature gauge to get the reading as the dsg only has oil temp switches. Can't remember seeing dgs temp value from obd11/vcd.

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[EROtero]

That's what I thought. I can't see any values on my VCDS logs either. I will get a dedicated gauge then. Thanks!

[normcaldwell]

Running the iabed pan because it's the only true baffled solution.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/aa35a1d9e24cac4d1b0f4f1c1ee7f661.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/b2415a6c0f126621e7cb74db289c1f27.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/18f5e092323010d35d4cb3c28206ee89.jpg


mroberte, how do you like the iABED oil pan?
Did you re-use the bolts to attach the pan, or get new ones?
Thanks.

[EROtero]

Quick update on this oil cooler dilemma. I found a really good deal on the Racingline oil cooler kit during Cybermonday deals at under $385. I also purchased a Mishimoto race grade dual pass cooler (https://www.mishimoto.com/dual-pass-oil-cooler-small.html) to replace the VWR kit cooler and also a Mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate (https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-thermostatic-oil-sandwich-plate.html) (200*F thermostat) to replace the VWR plate. All at under $600 total cost.

I also purchased everything else I needed to complete the DSG cooling system from Jegs (lines, fittings, and an inline thermostat from Mishimoto (https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-in-line-thermostat.html)). It will be a month or so until I have time to install everything, but will post photos of the system and instal once I get to it.

[Gberg888]

That USRT cooler looks like an absolutely awesome modification.

[mroberte]

Where'd you find the $385 deal? That's a much easier price!

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[Spinnetti]

I wonder if a well ventilated hood would obviate the need for cooler upgrades? That's what they do on the race cars. Keeps my race car nice and cool too. Sure would like to see one in person before I plunk down the money tho.

[EROtero]

Where'd you find the $385 deal? That's a much easier price!

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USP Motorsports, I had an extra 20% off coupon on top of the already discounted cyber monday deal, so it was a no brainer.


I wonder if a well ventilated hood would obviate the need for cooler upgrades? That's what they do on the race cars. Keeps my race car nice and cool too. Sure would like to see one in person before I plunk down the money tho.

A ventilated hood will always bring engine bay temps down, which in turn can potentially aid in keeping engine temps down as well, specially in a turbo equipped engine. DarwinPro, from Japan makes one (DarwinPro (http://www.dp-aero.com/product/277666726)) but I am not sure if it has been tested in real life scenarios like on track, etc. Not sure how it performs, or if I even like it at all.

[Spinnetti]

USP Motorsports, I had an extra 20% off coupon on top of the already discounted cyber monday deal, so it was a no brainer.



A ventilated hood will always bring engine bay temps down, which in turn can potentially aid in keeping engine temps down as well, specially in a turbo equipped engine. DarwinPro, from Japan makes one (DarwinPro (http://www.dp-aero.com/product/277666726)) but I am not sure if it has been tested in real life scenarios like on track, etc. Not sure how it performs, or if I even like it at all.

its not just keeping engine bay temps down, its to allow the airflow that's getting jammed thorough the radiator somewhere to go. Without something like that, it just kinda makes and air dam in the engine bay limiting the effectiveness of the radiators. putting in better coolers helps, but the oil and DSG shed heat through the coolant so increasing the radiator efficiency would help quite a lot, perhaps as much or more than bigger coolers. Watching a buddy drive my race car at speed, the hood actually deforms a bit from the air rushing out of the vents. I think I've talked myself into it already, just gotta do it lol. First, gotta finish wiring the battery in the trunk. Hood up next!

[EROtero]

its not just keeping engine bay temps down, its to allow the airflow that's getting jammed thorough the radiator somewhere to go. Without something like that, it just kinda makes and air dam in the engine bay limiting the effectiveness of the radiators. putting in better coolers helps, but the oil and DSG shed heat through the coolant so increasing the radiator efficiency would help quite a lot, perhaps as much or more than bigger coolers. Watching a buddy drive my race car at speed, the hood actually deforms a bit from the air rushing out of the vents. I think I've talked myself into it already, just gotta do it lol. First, gotta finish wiring the battery in the trunk. Hood up next!

I understand the function of a well design vented hood, but am afraid of testing one that's never been properly tested by it's manufacturer. I have seen cars lift the front end completely off the track and loose control because of improper hood vent design and the opposite can also happen where the hood vent creates too much downforce that creates too much drag and the cars understeer heavily. Suspension adjustments are necessary to compensate for these changes.

[slick99]

its not just keeping engine bay temps down, its to allow the airflow that's getting jammed thorough the radiator somewhere to go. Without something like that, it just kinda makes and air dam in the engine bay limiting the effectiveness of the radiators. putting in better coolers helps, but the oil and DSG shed heat through the coolant so increasing the radiator efficiency would help quite a lot, perhaps as much or more than bigger coolers. Watching a buddy drive my race car at speed, the hood actually deforms a bit from the air rushing out of the vents. I think I've talked myself into it already, just gotta do it lol. First, gotta finish wiring the battery in the trunk. Hood up next!

i saw someone made video of reducing engine bay by removing the rubber sealant.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XXrETFUTls

[EROtero]

i saw someone made video of reducing engine bay by removing the rubber sealant.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XXrETFUTls

Yes I have done this already. Good find thought!

[Spinnetti]

i saw someone made video of reducing engine bay by removing the rubber sealant.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XXrETFUTls

That's a good idea too.. good start.

[rex_racer]

i saw someone made video of reducing engine bay by removing the rubber sealant.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XXrETFUTls

Not sure this is the best idea. While it does reduce underhood temps it doesn't do so by releasing heat out of the window, other airflow testing found that air was being sucked into the engine bay. As speeds increased more and more air was pulled into the engine bay with only one place to go, under, resulting in more lift.

[EROtero]

rex_racer this is the reason I only run the slim trim at autocross but replace it with the oem seal for track. What we really need is a hood like TCR cars:

https://car-images.bauersecure.com/pagefiles/80007/1040x0/2017-ascr-ttest-bk2-4770.jpg?scale=down
https://www.touringcartimes.com/img/2019/08/johansson01.jpg?w=785&h=442&fit=crop&fm=pjpg&q=80

There are many other designs coming out of China but none have been properly tested for aerodynamics, so they are out of the equation for me.

[mroberte]

rex_racer this is the reason I only run the slim trim at autocross but replace it with the oem seal for track. What we really need is a hood like TCR cars:

https://car-images.bauersecure.com/pagefiles/80007/1040x0/2017-ascr-ttest-bk2-4770.jpg?scale=down
https://www.touringcartimes.com/img/2019/08/johansson01.jpg?w=785&h=442&fit=crop&fm=pjpg&q=80

There are many other designs coming out of China but none have been properly tested for aerodynamics, so they are out of the equation for me.They are basically replicas from the tcr car, however, the intercooler is where the hood opening is along with a bunch of ducting to get the air from the grill out the hood.

Try searching for the lms catalog and there are some images of it all.

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[rex_racer]

rex_racer this is the reason I only run the slim trim at autocross but replace it with the oem seal for track. What we really need is a hood like TCR cars

What's most interesting with the TCR cars is how little grille openings there are compared to the road car, the hood vent even is primarily for the intercooler. It would be really fun to compartmentalize each radiator to maximize air flow and then seal up the hood lines ala the e30 M3 Evo, of course we'd then need some real venting to pull it out through the wheel wells and a real splitter.

[mroberte]

What's most interesting with the TCR cars is how little grille openings there are compared to the road car, the hood vent even is primarily for the intercooler. It would be really fun to compartmentalize each radiator to maximize air flow and then seal up the hood lines ala the e30 M3 Evo, of course we'd then need some real venting to pull it out through the wheel wells and a real splitter.I was surprised too! Thought the car would need more cooling than this.

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[slick99]

Yes I have done this already. Good find thought!

did u find it useful? I dont know how they are claiming of engine bay temp got down by doing this simple changes.

[EROtero]

did u find it useful? I dont know how they are claiming of engine bay temp got down by doing this simple changes.

It's difficult to measure without an actual engine bay temp gauge (or similar device). All I know is, autocrossing on a hotter day, I opened the hood after the first run and the bay felt cooler than previous times. In fact, I didn't have to open the hood at all between runs to cool down the bay.

[Spinnetti]

Not sure this is the best idea. While it does reduce underhood temps it doesn't do so by releasing heat out of the window, other airflow testing found that air was being sucked into the engine bay. As speeds increased more and more air was pulled into the engine bay with only one place to go, under, resulting in more lift.

It can. there's low pressure at the base of the windshield which is why some cars have the reverse intake there (think old school hotrods). I'm kinda torn on the myself. some tufts of string taped to the back edge of the hood then observed while driving will tell the tale. I suppose I should go ahead and do that. Doing the reverse vent on the hood definitely works though. 24hr enduro with stock radiator and my lex has no trouble keeping cool with the stock radiator. In fact, the one I'm running is actually smaller than stock. I also have the back of the hood open as well. I'll string test that on the S3 and see what it does. I definitely want a vented hood though. That air pressure has a lot less drag going out the top than packing under the car (and therefore cools better and reduces lift all else being equal). Note the R8 has no intercooler - its just for radiator efficiency.
156150

[rex_racer]

I was surprised too! Thought the car would need more cooling than this.

Its amazing what real ducting can do. Street cars rarely have controlled airflow. The 2005 Lotus Elise is an example of a car that did. It had two ducted engine oil coolers, which ultimately kept the oil so cool the oil was not able to operate effectively and resulted in wiped cams. Lotus reduced the coolers to one the following year, but it is quite common for track and daily driven cars to swap over to a coolant controlled system like what we have in our cars. With adequate ducting and proper radiators I firmly believe that could resolve many of the engine oil temp and DSG oil temp issues many have run into. The CSF data we have been seeing is already confirming this and that's without real ducting.


did u find it useful? I dont know how they are claiming of engine bay temp got down by doing this simple changes.

The guy who made the claim, TTschwing, is very data driven. He had been doing all sorts of highly functional and simple mods for a number of years, always backed by data. In this case he had two air temp probes, one more centered of the brake resevoir and another directly in the opening of the closed box intake. His data is good, but it doesn't look at what could be happening to front end lift. It is a shame he's not involved in the community as he had a lot of really effective modifications.


It can. there's low pressure at the base of the windshield which is why some cars have the reverse intake there (think old school hotrods). I'm kinda torn on the myself. some tufts of string taped to the back edge of the hood then observed while driving will tell the tale. I suppose I should go ahead and do that. Doing the reverse vent on the hood definitely works though. 24hr enduro with stock radiator and my lex has no trouble keeping cool with the stock radiator. In fact, the one I'm running is actually smaller than stock. I also have the back of the hood open as well. I'll string test that on the S3 and see what it does. I definitely want a vented hood though. That air pressure has a lot less drag going out the top than packing under the car (and therefore cools better and reduces lift all else being equal). Note the R8 has no intercooler - its just for radiator efficiency.

There were some guys that had done the string test on a very similar platform with similar window angles. The strings sucked straight into the engine bay, instead of waving up and over the car. It would be worth a test on this chassis though. Even simple things as rake can have an effect on what may happen to the airflow

[949]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/aa35a1d9e24cac4d1b0f4f1c1ee7f661.jpg

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not sure if the installation is yours but this was installed incorrectly on one step per the photo i see here. i hope you did correct it after the photo was taken or youll eventually get leaks.

[mroberte]

not sure if the installation is yours but this was installed incorrectly on one step per the photo i see here. i hope you did correct it after the photo was taken or youll eventually get leaks.Sealant not finished when picture taken, installed correctly, no leaks.

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[EROtero]

Something like the products this company offers may work if placed properly...

https://trackspecmotorsports.com/

[Spinnetti]

Something like the products this company offers may work if placed properly...

https://trackspecmotorsports.com/

Thanks. There's an even easier, lighter and stiffer way - punch louvers in the hood. I'm 20 min from Gas Monkey and I'm sure they have a louver machine or know who does. Just gotta get some quotes.