Haltech Elite 1500 + VW/Audi 1.8T AWP ONLY

[Dmnted]

Hi All,

I am at the pointy end of my engine build (thread here http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/827764-Aussie-03-A4-Build (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/827764-Aussie-03-A4-Build) and considering stand alone rather than Eurodyne Maestro after the engine run in.

I have searched and found this plug in ECU from Haltech however, I can not find anyone that is running the Haltech 1500 plug in on an A4 B6.
http://www.haltech.com/product/ht-150970-elite-1500-vw-audi-1-8t-awp-only-2001-2006/ (https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-150970-elite-1500-vw-audi-1-8t-awp-only-2001-2006/)

I have looked into the link ECU and after some custom changes for the fans and thermostat, it will end up being more costly than than the plug and play haltech.
I am just not sure if it will be actually "plug and Play" for my application, so I thought I'd post for some feedback.

The Haltech Elite 1500 + VW/Audi 1.8T does specifically say AWP ONLY although, the compatible cars are listed as:

Volkswagen Golf Mk4 GTI - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Volkswagen Bora / Jetta - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Volkswagen Beetle - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Volkswagon Polo GTI - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Audi A3 - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Audi A4 - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Audi Quattro Sport - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Audi TT MK1 (8N) - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Skoda Octavia VRS - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Skoda Seat Leon - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06
Skoda Toledo - 1.8 Turbo DBW MY01-06

I have an 03 A4 Quattro (base model)
I have found a response from Haltech saying it will work, if the ECU pinouts and the canbus comms are the same as the AWP.

Does anyone have any insights into the AWP pinouts vs AMB?
My car is a BFB but I have swapped an AMB ECU into my car and successfully flashed a stage 1 tune in the past.

I assume the canbus should all work the same or am I way off the mark?

The only thing I can think of that may be an issue is our electro-thermostat in the B6
I'm guessing it might run a bit hotter without the heater opening the thermostat sooner and maybe a CEL but the Haltech wouldn't be looking for it?
I haven't the slightest how the canbus system works

Is anyone is running this ECU or might be able to give me some guidance?

Cheers!

[BARRY]

you will need to replace your thermostat with a manual thermostat as the Haltech does not have the function to control the electronic heater within the AMB's thermostat.

that is the only thing...nothing else would be an issue. I'd assume wiring outside of thermostat will be the same, but I'm not an expert here.

tuning the Haltech is much easier than tuning with Maestro. Haltech uses 1 to 1 mapping whereas Maestro uses multiple maps and calculations which determine what the computer delivers. I've used Haltech many times and do enjoy the ease of tuneability.

CANBUS with newer version of Haltech are programmable...Haltech upfront does not develop CANBUS commands. I don't recall which Haltech devices allow you to map(code, writing code) your own CANBUS functions.

correction...MOTEC allows custom CANBUS function coding. Haltech, you'll have to work with their developers to develop CANBUS communication and function. FYI, each manufacturer has their own protocols and functions utilized through CANBUS. You can purchase a CANBUS snooper/output module if you plan to identify sensors, functions, etc communicated through CANBUS.

here is a device that has been developed for 2008 and newer vehicles to assist with monitoring CANBUS to log functions/actions.
https://comma.ai/shop/products/panda-obd-ii-dongle


Pi Snoop is a software tool used for calibration, diagnostics, measurement, and data acquisition of embedded controls systems.

It allows the user to interact with software while it runs in real time on an embedded system or electronic control unit (ECU). It uses a communications link to gain access to the memory of the ECU for read and write operations. It also loads information about the program running on the ECU so that it is aware of the memory layout, functions and variables present in the ECU software.
https://www.pi-innovo.com/product/pisnoop/

CanKing for Windows is a CAN bus monitor and general-purpose diagnostic tool. It is especially suited for interactive development work. CAN messages can be easily sent and the corresponding impact on the target module observed.
https://www.kvaser.com/canking/

[hightime80]

Oh hot Damn that is so above my pay grade in terms of knowledge....and I was proud of myself for wrestling my old ko3 out of the car lol.

[Dmnted]

Thanks Barry, some great info there.

I wonder if a colder thermostat can be fitted to the standard electro-thermostat housing, or a B5 A4 thermostat retrofit?
The machining in the block looks different on the AEB to the AMB from photos I can find.

From my understanding, our mapped thermostat has a mechanical element that opens at a set temperature of 100 degrees Celsius. The thermostat housing also has a heating element, that the computer uses to open the thermostat earlier for emissions purposes, by heating the coolant locally.
So fitting a colder thermostat should null and void the need for the mapped thermostat that the haltech doesn't have maps for.
It will effect emissions on the car, but that is out the window anyway with Haltech.

The notes for Haltech Elite say The CAN dash support was developed on a 2003 VW Beetle - other models may not be supported or have reduced dash functionality.
I am hoping I wouldn't need to do any CAN coding and the dash would be close to functioning as it normally would.
Surely the can bus protocol VAG group used should be pretty close for the same year model beetle and A4 (Both 2003).

Does anyone know of a B5 thermostat and housing would fit in the B6 or a lower temp thermostat can be fitted into the B6 housing?
My thermostat housing is down with my engine builder so I can't have a good look at it right now.

[Wet0willy01]

I've opened up the awm block you accept the amb thermostat. An awm thermostat and housing should fit no problem.

[Wet0willy01]

I am curious about this as well... keeping an eye on this thread. I want to contact them about this because I have a few questions myself.

[Dmnted]

Thanks Wet0Willy, you have confirmed what I thought would work.
I must have spent at least 10 hours searching parts yesterday and comparing.

It looks like the B5 A4 Thermostat housing (06B121121L) will mate up with the lower radiator hose in the same position.
The AWM coolant return hard pipe (06B121065AC) looks to snake around and connect into the block where our J plug is.

I found this photo showing both on the AWM, Dont take any notice of the circles
118000

The return line for the oil cooler is in a slightly different position on the hard pipe, so an AWM oil cooler return hose is needed too (06B121058)

The B6 connection between the coolant supply hard pipe and the top of the B6 electro-thermostat, could just be capped at the hard pipe or possibly run the B5 supply pipe.
I found thermostats in 80, 82 and 87 Degree Celsius options.
Anyone have an idea on what the optimal temp to run would be?
I would assume having a low temp could mess with fueling with the ECU thinking it is still in cold start?

Hopefully that solves the B6 thermostat issue for standalone [:D]

Apparently the standard B6 radiator fans are an issue on the Link ECU, so I would like to verify they will work with Haltech or find a solution for that too.

[BARRY]

Radiator fans are not an issue...or should not be. If anything you'll simply need a rewire.

I have never found the need to utilize a lower temperature thermostat other than factory. even in race situations. modern engines have optimized coolant flow and usually an upgrade to the radiator would suffice. If you live in a hot climate and plan to drive hard, lower could benefit you. With Haltech, as with most standalones, you will specify when additional injection addition stops at what engine coolant temperature. I believe the number for the aftermarket thermostat is when the thermostat begins to open, but it has been a while since I've looked into that.

what you have to be worrisome is that, if you are over cooling your engine, internal combustion will not be optimized and increased cylinder wear can occur. If you really want to just avoid all of this, you can look into running of an electric water pump, Haltech will be able to have full control of this and you will be able to bypass your factory water pump as well as thermostat entirely. Flow and temperature management will be handled by the ECU.

[EuroxS4]

According to some literature the canbus support with this ecu is based of a 2003 vw beetle. Not sure if that helps any.

[Dmnted]

Thanks Barry,

I am hoping for the ECU pinout to be the same so there is no rewiring required.
With the J293 - Coolant Fan Control Module, controlling the electric cooling fan, and the ECM-(J220) sending the fan signal via single wire PMW feed, it shouldn't be a big job anyway.
I know Haltech can control fans with a PWM duty cycle based on Temp.

I am in Sydney Australia so it can get hot, well for me anyway (high 30's early 40's Celsius).
I'll do some more research on the effects of running the engine cooler.

118468

Cheers EuroS4, fingers crossed the canbus protcol doesn't change too much between models.

[Dmnted]

Hi All,

Just an update on this.

I have been in contact with Haltech on support for the B6 1.8T platform.
They have a record of one A4 using the plug and play kit however didn't specifically mention if it was a B6.
I have asked if the model year was recorded.
The customer reported that the car ran, but got an ABS light.
Their suspicion is that this is related to the CAN, as no support has ever been done for it.
The engine ran and the car drove however, no further feedback was given.

I have offered my car for them to develop the additional support needed, to correctly run the B6 1.8T Platform including the electro-thermostats.

They have a heavy workload at the moment however, they are considering it for a few months time.

[BARRY]

will you still move forward with the B5 thermostat mod? or will you wait until they can develop the mapping for electronic thermostat?

[Dmnted]

I'll have to wait Barry and leave the OEM thermostat in place.
If I convert to the B5 Thermostat, they wont be able to develop a true plug and play for the B6.
I'd love to simply plug it in, load the base map and commence tuning with all the standard systems working, including canbus support.

[Wet0willy01]

Please do

[BARRY]

cool! hopefully they're able to get this going soon! tuning a haltech is many times simpler than Maestro. hopefully also full control of N75 for boost control! Haltech does support boost control mapping in general.

[Dmnted]

They dropped me a email last night to contact them when I am up and running after my build.
They said they will see how they are positioned at that time, and seem to be genuinely interested in helping out.
I will keep you posted, but it will be a few months before I get my engine back from the builder and everything back in the car.
I'm aiming for late July early August.

[Wet0willy01]

Updates?

[Dmnted]

Sorry Barry, no updates yet.
It is going to take me a little while before I am in a position to progress with this.

I have had a few delays with my build but I am not too far away from starting it now.
I then need to get some tyres and rego because it's been off the road for a few years.
I am going to run the engine in using Eurodyne then move onto Haltech.

I did find a guy on the Haltech Forum who has an Elite 2500 running with a SEAT Leon 1.8T with Haldex.
In the end he had it running standalone with tac , no oil warning and the ABS/ESP light off.
There was an issue with the Canbus wire which he had to cut and bypass.
Not sure if the Leon has our type of thermostat though?

https://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?t=14072

[Wet0willy01]

https://www.haltech.com/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=ht_get_file&id=5d227ace506c252c8b7fab07&op=1

There doesn’t seem to be a designated output for the thermostat. Not to say you possibly couldn’t control it with a spare output or reassign one designated for the n249 or n112. I’m also curious about the ability to use another analog input for the second knock sensor instead of going to the 2500 for it.

[Wet0willy01]

Based on the ECU comparison chart the 1500 is only capable of one knock sensor. [down]

[joshkntz]

Why not go for the TTLink ecu?

[Dmnted]

Why not go for the TTLink ecu?

Hey Josh, the TTlink ECU requires a custom setup for the B6 ECU Controlled thermostat and a few other things, so it is not Plug N Play either.

You are right WettWilly, only one knock sensor on the 1500 although it is not too much different than the 2500.
I am hoping they can develop the plug n play so that end users can use either ECU depending on their budget.

[B6A4GT3076R]

Hey Josh, the TTlink ECU requires a custom setup for the B6 ECU Controlled thermostat and a few other things, so it is not Plug N Play either.
.

Not really. The ECU can (and will) control everything needed.

A 'traditional' thermostat can be retrofitted to remove the heater element.

[Dmnted]

Not really. The ECU can (and will) control everything needed.

A 'traditional' thermostat can be retrofitted to remove the heater element.

Correct, but it is not a plug and play for the car as it stands.
Is the manual conversion for the thermostat that i mentioned earlier in the thread, the only thing required to run the TTLink ?

[B6A4GT3076R]

Correct, but it is not a plug and play for the car as it stands.
Is the manual conversion for the thermostat that i mentioned earlier in the thread, the only thing required to run the TTLink ?

Nothing on these cars is truly PnP.

(1) You'd need to setup a PWM for the radiator fans x2 (1x main, 1x supplementary for AC) or remove this system and revert to a traditional relay-type switch controlled by the ECU. I went with the latter, removing the failure prone PWM controller for the fans in the B6.
(2) You'd want to install a wideband O2 separate from the factory one. Reason? None of the "supposed" PnP ECU's have the factory O2 sensor(s) wired in. The downstream (narrowband) O2 sensor is useless. Remove this. The Upstream (downpipe) wideband is useless when you install your own aftermarket wideband O2 with controller.

None is truly PnP. There's always an element of wiring (additional) to make use of the available functions for both Link & Haltech...

The Haltech unit is a patch-between style setup (loom converter between ECU and actual car loom), whereby the Link is directly plugin to the existing car loom.

Either option should have CANBUS signals sorted. I know with experience that the Link unit has 2x types of VWAG CANBUS signals available.

[EuroxS4]

Depending on what your budget is . I think this is the best way to go without having to run a all new harness. So this adapter harness and their ecu.


https://www.maxxecu.com/products/pluginecu/audi_me75

[J_L]

Depending on what your budget is . I think this is the best way to go without having to run a all new harness. So this adapter harness and their ecu.


https://www.maxxecu.com/products/pluginecu/audi_me75

That thing look plug and play to me, no need to modify the coolant system

[BARRY]

MaxxECU doesn't list that it controls thermostat heater element.

if it does, this maybe a viable solution as it does support Flex Fuel as well. I really am a person who needs real time map editing.

[Dmnted]

When I have time to progress this, I will pass all these comments onto Haltech to see what they can do.
I am guessing they have the ability to run all the standard sensors and thermostat and the only change needed would be to tapp their air temps sensor in.

[BARRY]

Haltech has the ability to utilize factory temperature sensors. Calibration will need to be completed to ensure appropriate functionality.


Yeah, the IAT sensor is located just after the throttle body on the manifold on our 1.8Ts.

[J_L]

MaxxECU doesn't list that it controls thermostat heater element.

if it does, this maybe a viable solution as it does support Flex Fuel as well. I really am a person who needs real time map editing.

voilà

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Hl94Ms0bgDyuOlsrEXgW2pNKvdyXRiu4nlZzyImAyvQ5pebgE3 Kh5Tqh3WmUB86YHLr3s4Ne94pnF_sSY_uflEG7US9NB19qaHIt tfWIX0zQkGL03Qou7kWF5b5mweDzQ_UKoBwScJudAxX_oa7Mun jGl5FE0pE6p6ZH7XUUFbzvgl5_qr8W_Y4q131EVYer530m-IgIrrzuxDVtERmpc963ZprxrYz6wfXezQLx4Yw9FsfrBYvtjgO 5FWEjHpwyr-RKD_nVDH6StHAQDdmzTo3FTrw2D7rbAetZb2KH2cFGCuJ9Itqf CXw2agDiDZiARiM3bluchxbq-RNUOgp9ZXmUL3Rdmns3G5hX58NTyEWv6yVEz_3AeItXdbhmNr3 kgiwE0O3JNsEUqzwwVkt4gSQGv_lKJIEhuWkqeLqFRq4swlBxu ZAMUZxjzRz-eKo1L3NZT53MnbIQtKm3eYDVkvPKll_pM9gk9Ct28JrchqZgjh kzs8jXUNG_lxjaKv_BDp45VvqaRYC5RlcekO4GCAbSfdLOMA1x XudTQ5rzHzipylE04d5vLS2CaqZUw9j2JqvXyR80yfTJ8FA9Qz-kmHkDgU3CD4UgCewwfmHiSEgeixicPTRuSeoIV171FMcKTUHyC Foxjd_g4fD2qHAjZVYIMPgyaCEOoXihn1_-PnsUqo3Hd1CDYg=w1186-h632-no?.jpg

[BARRY]

photo doesn't show.

[BARRY]

well...in 6 months or so...if Haltech is working fully...It would sway me to possibly move away from Maestro. If not, I'd be interested in a group buy for the MaxxECU.

don't really enjoy the mystery tuning of Maestro. you map things hoping the computer calculates what you want, but doesn't always.

[Wet0willy01]

I just hate my throttle body limp mode that doesn’t allow me to keep boost between shifts.

[Wet0willy01]

MaxxECU doesn't list that it controls thermostat heater element.



http://www.maxxecu.com/webhelp/wirings-pluginecu-audi_me_75.html

Thermostat control, PWM fan outputs... looks like it’s all covered.

[joshkntz]

http://www.maxxecu.com/webhelp/wirings-pluginecu-audi_me_75.html

Thermostat control, PWM fan outputs... looks like it’s all covered.

What's the difference between the BEX and AMB motor because this seems like it could be the way to go.

[EuroxS4]

What's the difference between the BEX and AMB motor because this seems like it could be the way to go.

everything you need to know about BEX:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/509903-BEX-Engine-Information-Thread


It looks like its just software differences in ecu and bigger injectors and turbo. More or less a 225hp tt engine just in a a4 .

[Wet0willy01]

still investigating the MaxxECU. Found this listed on their website-

"•Audi A4 (EU spec), (ECU number 8E0 909 518 AS/0261 208 500) <-- AC fan might not work, under investigation."

http://maxxecu.com/webhelp/can-oem_audi_s3_1_8t_me75.html

[Stroked1.8t]

For 2 years my setup is no maf, gm map sensor, no N249, no n75, no cat, no rear O2 sensor, OE thermostat housing, OE fans and controller, retained cruise control, retained CAN communication, gained 2 step, launch controll, edit everything. Every light on my dash board is off.
http://www.ignitronecu.com/

[BARRY]

For 2 years my setup is no maf, gm map sensor, no N249, no n75, no cat, no rear O2 sensor, OE thermostat housing, OE fans and controller, retained cruise control, retained CAN communication, gained 2 step, launch controll, edit everything. Every light on my dash board is off.
http://www.ignitronecu.com/

wow...how have you not shared this with any of us before. seems like the best option for us as it is purpose built for the 1.8t. i really wished this was available way way back then as so i didn't have to purchase Maestro. tuning actual standalones are so much faster and easier for me. i do have to say though, these last few weeks I have learned lots about Maestro. it still isn't my first choice, but i could tune it really well as of now. i'm currently working on lean burn tuning on my vehicle to see if there is any benefit.

[drool]

AUXILIARY DEVICES
Fuel tank ventilation (EVAP)
Secondary air injection
Continued coolant circulation pump drive
Coolant fan control
Electronic thermostat control

[Stroked1.8t]

wow...how have you not shared this with any of us before. seems like the best option for us as it is purpose built for the 1.8t. i really wished this was available way way back then as so i didn't have to purchase Maestro. tuning actual standalones are so much faster and easier for me. i do have to say though, these last few weeks I have learned lots about Maestro. it still isn't my first choice, but i could tune it really well as of now. i'm currently working on lean burn tuning on my vehicle to see if there is any benefit.

[drool]

honestly, I havent been on this forum in years. Only recently have I been on to sell a fuel rail.

[Stroked1.8t]

it works really well right out of the gate, base tune, you can rip it. The ecu will comp up to 25% + or - as it dials in the trims, then after a little driving it populates a correction map, apply map to VE table. Majority of the tuning is done that way. You can also make logs and adjust VE table on your own, but the ECU is very good at doing it on its on, you just have to apply the corrections. E85 compatible with a flex sensor, blends from 0-100 ethanol, gas timing map and ethanol timing map. gas boost map and ethanol boost map.

if you want to know anything specific, I can answer, or you can get in touch with Ignitron.

[BARRY]

sold sold sold!...if i decide to ditch the Maestro I'll definitely be reaching out to you! Thanks! [wrench]

[Stroked1.8t]

I was also a Maestro user, could never get my car running how I wanted. Sold that ish

[BARRY]

yeah...i've had mine installed for 2 years. spent 3 months trying to learn to map that shit and gave up. switched over to e85 earlier this month and on this 2nd stint got back on figuring this out. so far i've learned how to map Maestro aside from a few items...sometimes my RPM's hunt/bounce when stationary. not always. its not timing, fueling, or idle control mapping causing this. i did realize that per the internet folks state "do not touch that map"...was entirely wrong. I had to modify all maps aside from optimum engine torque map and target filling. touching that today as i really am annoyed that the the RPM's hunt. we'll see where that takes me, but so far i've had to modify most if not all maps. idle torque was the biggest...i really HATE how factory and flash tunes upon clutch out the engine becomes jerky. after setting all values within idle torque to the same value, now clutch out and throttle tip in is like a normal car...not jerky. its very smooth now.

again...tuning a standalone is A LOT easier, and you're not fighting with the ECU calculating values to the fuel or timing based of what it feels is correct versus, what you've defined.

my tune now...besides the occasional stationary idle hunting, drive ability is spectacular. this little K03 feels like a V8 with e85 tuned. i'm now working on a lean burn tune to try to get more than 28-30mpg.

[Stroked1.8t]

you get 28-30mpg on e85?

have you mess with injection timing with Maestro? Curious to know what you went with.

[BARRY]

oops....sorry....on gasoline. so e85 would be 30% less of that. when i think MPG i usually think in terms of gasoline. my car before all of the tuning the way i drive really gets 25mpg on 91 octane. with another driver 28-30mpg. i'm testing out lean burn to get that mpg even higher.

planning to test the map later day. essentially, some regions of the map are set to 16.5 afr if gasoline...and others 23 afr. lots of ignition timing as well as ensuring these fields are in the very low load cells are how this is accomplished. at least that's the thought. will report back once i get this map loaded and tested tonight. i have 2 spare motors so its now the time to test things out.

[Stroked1.8t]

oops....sorry....on gasoline. so e85 would be 30% less of that. when i think MPG i usually think in terms of gasoline. my car before all of the tuning the way i drive really gets 25mpg on 91 octane. with another driver 28-30mpg. i'm testing out lean burn to get that mpg even higher.

planning to test the map later day. essentially, some regions of the map are set to 16.5 afr if gasoline...and others 23 afr. lots of ignition timing as well as ensuring these fields are in the very low load cells are how this is accomplished. at least that's the thought. will report back once i get this map loaded and tested tonight. i have 2 spare motors so its now the time to test things out.

haha, for a minute i thought I was doing something wrong, I get 20-21mpg on E75 when I behave and lots of highway driving. 17-18 mixed driving. and I have achieved 9mpg when I misbehave lol.
I'm interested in those lean burn map results. what fuel will you try first?

[BARRY]

currently i'm at ethanol content 78%...upon next fill up i'll probably be closer to 80%. once i get my idle issue fixed and lean burn finalized, i'll rebuild my map for 91 octane. should be fairly simple... just subtract 10 degree's of timing across the board and fine tune. [drive]

[Stroked1.8t]

80% E is good, I would pay extra for 80. 72 is the highest I have got from any pump. Usually getting E from grocery store has stations, maybe I need to try Sunoco.

[BARRY]

ethanol content is the same per region. all are produced by the same local vendor and sold directly to gas stations unaltered. so far in California Northern and Southern I've hit e80 every time since the start of summer. hopefully we don't see any winter blends.

on the topic of lean burn tune... absolute failure. I attempted to force another map to do what I want which would have worked...but...the Motronic ECU prevents anything leaner than lambda 1.01 from being called. it is hard coded into the software.

also the engine or ECU seems to be fighting the large amounts of timing I'm throwing at it at the low low RPM's...the silky smooth driveability was tarnished a tad.

[EuroxS4]

For 2 years my setup is no maf, gm map sensor, no N249, no n75, no cat, no rear O2 sensor, OE thermostat housing, OE fans and controller, retained cruise control, retained CAN communication, gained 2 step, launch controll, edit everything. Every light on my dash board is off.
http://www.ignitronecu.com/

Looks like a good setup!!

[Stroked1.8t]

I don't see pricing or pics of their ecu anywhere. I am now also considering this route. Any idea on pricing???

$1000

[EuroxS4]

$1000

Looks legit for the money. Is it a modified Motronic ecu with their software?? Curious about retaining immobilizer.

[Stroked1.8t]

I could be wrong but I believe it is an all new ecu.

[BARRY]

looks like an all new ECU.

is vehicle theft a big thing in your area? i've rarely seen audi break ins in general.

[Stroked1.8t]

before immobilizers there were kill switches, ecu with no power makes it difficult to drive lol

[EuroxS4]

before immobilizers there were kill switches, ecu with no power makes it difficult to drive lol

Not saying its a must,but with Immo off or not present even in stock ecu. MIL may be on or immo light will be illuminated as ECU is the immobilizer master in that system. Physically coding immo out of a cryptomask cluster is a total bitch. Would like to avoid that.

[BARRY]

Ignitron ECU also communicates with the factory ABS/ESP module, instrument cluster (and haldex controller if exists) via CAN.

does that mean that it properly communicates so there will not be a immobilizer/MIL cluster illumination? Stroked1.8t how does your dash look?

[Stroked1.8t]

does that mean that it properly communicates so there will not be a immobilizer/MIL cluster illumination? Stroked1.8t how does your dash look?

Like it rolled off the showroom floor.

EDIT: Well that's a little inaccurate. The windsheild washer and fog light are displaying in the center, but that has nothing to do with the ECU.

When I first got the ecu I had plenty of lights on. Balazs got it all resolved. He sent me a file that I could use to capture something he needed to get all communications working. A couple different captures and giving him some time he fixed everything. Now all this information is in the firmware, your welcome lol.

[Stroked1.8t]

I will upload a video in a bit

[BARRY]

that is awesome! that means his ECU can log CANBUS therefore he can add logic to his computer which will interact with CANBUS. many of the top standalones have this feature, but aren't as easy to get customized as quickly or without an additional fee associated.

[Stroked1.8t]

that is awesome! that means his ECU can log CANBUS therefore he can add logic to his computer which will interact with CANBUS. many of the top standalones have this feature, but aren't as easy to get customized as quickly or without an additional fee associated.

Everything I have needed was done and I didn't pay additional. Also if enough people request a feature he will add it.

- - - Updated - - -

https://drive.google.com/file/d/148z9-zyvrn720iwrpEJeTcE7Tc5WRUoX/view?usp=sharing

[Stroked1.8t]

that is awesome! that means his ECU can log CANBUS therefore he can add logic to his computer which will interact with CANBUS. many of the top standalones have this feature, but aren't as easy to get customized as quickly or without an additional fee associated.

when you make a log, it logs everything, its a big list.

[BARRY]

hey Stroked1.8t, have you hooked up any gauges to your OBD2 port? how fast is the response. our factory ECU is REALLY slow as it utilizes KLine from ECU to CANBUS. If I could continue use of my UltraGauge to monitor engine parameters but in real time, this would be a huge plus for me. ignitronecu would have to support a standard though. I'll email the guys just in case you are unsure.

[Stroked1.8t]

hey Stroked1.8t, have you hooked up any gauges to your OBD2 port? how fast is the response. our factory ECU is REALLY slow as it utilizes KLine from ECU to CANBUS. If I could continue use of my UltraGauge to monitor engine parameters but in real time, this would be a huge plus for me. ignitronecu would have to support a standard though. I'll email the guys just in case you are unsure.

Honestly I have no idea. I have not desire to connect any additional gauges in my car. I don't even have a boost gauge.
The ecu is very quick, I would imagine it can be done.

[BARRY]

got a response! this guy really cares about his product! i'm sold. once i get the 2.0L in next year and have it running i'll be looking to purchase Ignitron!


Hi Barry!

Thanks for your message and interest!

2019.10.28. 21:53 keltezéssel, írta:
> Hello,
> I did notice your ECU mentions "OBD-II compatible (ISO 15765-4 CAN 11/500kbit)" does this mean, for my UltraGauge when it scans for available data points, there is a standard of which it can display engine outputs as well as sensor readings?

Yes, if the UltraGauge can read via the OBD2 protocol you can access the
following data:

PID #0x01 - Monitor status since DTCs cleared
PID #0x03 - Fuel system status
PID #0x04 - Calculated engine load
PID #0x05 - Engine coolant temperature
PID #0x06 - Short term fuel trim (bank 1)
PID #0x07 - Long term fuel trim (bank 1)
PID #0x0A - Fuel pressure
PID #0x0B - Intake manifold absolute pressure
PID #0x0C - Engine RPM
PID #0x0D - Vehicle speed
PID #0x0E - Timing advance
PID #0x0F - Intake air temperature
PID #0x10 - MAF air flow rate
PID #0x11 - Throttle position
PID #0x12 - Secondary air status
PID #0x15 - Bank 1 sensor 2 status
PID #0x1C - OBD standarts this vehicle conforms to
PID #0x1D - Oxygen sensors present (in 4 banks)
PID #0x21 - Distance traveled with MIL on
PID #0x24 - O2S1 Fuel-air equivalence ratio (with voltage)
PID #0x34 - O2S1 Fuel-air equivalence ratio (with current)
PID #0x42 - Control module voltage
PID #0x44 - Fuel-air commanded equivalence ratio
PID #0x51 - Fuel type coding
PID #0x5C - Engine oil temperature

> One other question, would you be able to map non standard for the 1.8t items to predefined display items, for example custom calculations to output to OBD2 external digital outputs? Something like, ethanol content from flex fuel sensor, lambda to gasoline air fuel, lambda to alcohol air fuel, lambda to ethanol air fuel, etc?

Current firmware does not allow you to map custom OBD2 PIDs, but it can
be done in a future release.
Sadly i cannot make you any promise that this will be implemented in the
near future. We are working on the DSG and dual wideband lambda support
at the moment.

Regards,
Balazs

[EuroxS4]

I am curious if there is more options for bigger throttle body and hardware. I only see 65mm tb listed wonder if anything bigger can be added.Also different gearboxes as well.

[Stroked1.8t]

Options for a bigger throttle body. The ECU doesn't care what throttle body you have connected, its up to you to define transients to get it to work. Anything will work if you put the time into the tune.