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SiRay6
12-16-2017, 12:19 AM
Hi, sorry if this is not the appropriate place to share this. This is my first Audi and I could not for the life of me find anything for the B9. I took some pics and hope this can help others who prefer to see images before tackling an install. Personally, I prefer to know what I'm getting into before starting an install but obviously that didn't happen this time around.

With my busy schedule and the fact that we just had our second child 3-4 months ago, I only installed the fronts last night. I will try to finish the rears this weekend and update the thread. I did not do this install because of budget reasons, I enjoy working on cars and I'm picky about adjusting my coilovers (example: I orient the set screw at the same spot for both sides, I spend a lot of time measuring the height making sure the two sides match exactly).

This is more to share information for those curious, I am not responsible for any damage you do to your cars, if you don't have the experience or confidence, pay to have a professional do it for you. With that said, this was one of the easiest installs I have done. Nothing was overly tight, no nuts/bolts were stripped, everything went smoothly and everything was done with only hand tools. Now that I have done this and know which nuts/bolts were removed, I will go to the dealer to identify which hardware needs to be replaced with new (stretch bolts?).

Below is the order which I personally feel is the easiest so that the install flows well; each step helps with the next step. The goal is the remove the shock/spring assembly from the car so it can be broken down for spring install or to install a complete coilover setup. Get the car up on jack stands and remove the wheels before you begin.

1. Loosen the top three bolts from the upper shock tower area. I used 13mm sockets and a wrench for the one closest to the strut tower brace.

https://i.imgur.com/ez5UN2lh.jpg

2. Remove the upper cap that covers the plug which controls the different damper settings (comfort, auto, dynamic, individual...forget what Audi calls this). You just lift up on the black cap.

https://i.imgur.com/JiLY2Alh.jpg

3. Unplug the wire connector by pulling up on the light colored "clip" first and then carefully unplug the wire connector by wiggling and pulling it up. If you struggle with pulling this off with your fingers, I gently used a box wrench of the appropriate size to help lift up the connect AFTER i lift up the light beige colored "clip" which secures/locks the wire connect down. sorry this is difficult to explain but you will understand when you are doing it.

https://i.imgur.com/0RwWJSVh.jpg

4. Now go to the lower control arm and find the headlight auto leveler arm. Unbolt the nut and swing this aside in a safe location so you don't damage this.

Rear view of the auto leveling arm, the nut is on the front side of the lower control arm.

https://i.imgur.com/J5DJTprh.jpg

Front View - the nut that needs to be removed.

https://i.imgur.com/jxQY9hFh.jpg

6. Find the sway bar endlink (plastic piece that looks like a dog bone and connects the sway bar to the lower shock support). You will need to loosen and remove the upper endlink nut but you don't have to completely remove the bolt until after step 7 since it will be easier after step 7. You will also need to loosen the bottom endlink nut, but you don't have to remove the nut, just loosen it.

https://i.imgur.com/I1In2qhh.jpg

View of endlink disconnected from lower shock support. Notice only the top nut is removed and the bottom part of the endlink is still attached to the sway bar

https://i.imgur.com/FbAlGzPh.jpg

7. Loosen and remove the nut/bolt that connects the lower shock support to the lower control arm. Since you loosened the three upper shock bolts in step 1, and the endlink in step 6, this will allow you to move the suspension up/down to easily pull out the bolt without damaging the threads. I pushed/lifted on the brake rotor hub part. You should not need to use much effort to pull this bolt out.

https://i.imgur.com/GRgBWzPh.jpg

View once the nut/bolt is complete removed.

https://i.imgur.com/LGamRzlh.jpg

8. Loosen and remove the pinch bolt that clamps the lower shock support to the shock. This is located to the rear of the shock.

https://i.imgur.com/Vxvr89lh.jpg

9. In this next step we need to pry the lower shock support wider apart because despite removing the pinch bolt in step 8, there is still a lot of force on the shock where you are unable to remove the shock from the lower shock support. There is a tool you can buy or what I did was use a 1/4" ratcheting wrench and placed it in the opening and turned it half way to pry the opening just enough to remove/separate the shock from the lower shock support.

https://i.imgur.com/2BMQ0UQh.jpg

10. We are almost able to pull the shock/spring assembly out of the car. Loosen and remove the long bolt that secures the two upper arms. My terminology is not accurate so refer to the picture below.

https://i.imgur.com/luOmWMCh.jpg

This is what it looks like once the nut/bolt is pulled out. The entire hub drops down and separates itself from the two upper arms.

https://i.imgur.com/YpLOPT4h.jpg

11. Now you can completely remove the three upper shock bolts which you loosened in step 1 and the shock/spring can be removed from the car.

12. Pull off the plastic cap that is on top of the upper shock mount.

https://i.imgur.com/xLTzIyTh.jpg

13. Compress the spring to unload the shock before loosening and removing the top nut.

https://i.imgur.com/BmKYWCUh.jpg

14. I struggled to remove the upper shock nut because I didn't have the right tools, I still got the job done, but you will need a 21mm offset wrench and a M9 triple square bit.

https://i.imgur.com/njFGUrHh.jpg

For those curious how I did it, I normally use a socket and a vice grip wrench and an allen/triple square bit, but my triple square set was too short so it didn't work. I ended up using a box wrench of the perfect size/width to hold the nut securely in place while i use the M9 triple square socket to turn the shaft. Normally the approach is the hold the shock shaft (m9 triple square socket) secure and turn the nut, I just reversed it by holding the nut secured and turning the shock shaft (m9 triple square socket) in the opposite direction. I obviously don't recommend this way, I simply didn't have the right tools.

https://i.imgur.com/CYRvWqlh.jpg

15. Separate the top hat from the shock.

https://i.imgur.com/MF2eiNyh.jpg

16. Install your springs and reverse the removal process to reinstall the shock. Please don't forget to put the plastic cap onto the shock before installing it back into the car...I forgot this step and the cap cannot be put on once the shock is installed in the car.

https://i.imgur.com/xLTzIyTh.jpg

17. Please note the orientation when reinstalling the shock, the tab circled faces toward the engine and there is a hole in the shock tower that accommodates this tab.

https://i.imgur.com/6vLevEJh.jpg

electron bom
12-17-2017, 04:46 AM
Thanks for posting, really great pics.
Do you happen to have any of the torque specs?

-LoneStar-
12-19-2017, 03:17 PM
Excellent write up. I will use this if I ever choose to do a spring swap. Torque specs would be nice to have and maybe someone will ad them in the future [up]

SiRay6
12-22-2017, 11:22 PM
Sorry guys, i dont know torque specs. But i did come across an ECS tuning install writeup for an older gen that listed tq specs by bolt size.

Im really bummed but i never completed the rears. I struggled with compressing the rear springs and i was unable to drop the lower control arm with the tools i had. Im going to spend the $100 and get the rears done (Emmunuele Design). But if i learn the best way to do it ill post up. I do know that compressing the springs probably wont work since the rear springs are under a lot of tension.

electron bom
04-17-2018, 09:45 AM
Anyone find any torque specs? Perhaps using the B8 torque specs is better than nothing?

electron bom
05-22-2018, 05:19 AM
I found a list of torque specs in the B8 forums. I figured I'd post it here in the event another member is wanting some guidance on their install. I know these are not the torque specs for the B9, but I assume it's better to have a data point from an earlier model than nothing at all.

For reference here are some torque values for the suspension pieces,
from two different sources (first column - S , second column - A)

B8 A4/S4 TORQUE VALUES Suspension and Wheels

.................................................. .....Source "S"............... Source "A"

Front damper to upper mount ............ 37 ft-lbs ..........,.... (37 ft-lbs) 50NM

Front damper upper mount to body .....xx ft-lbs ..........,.... (30 ft-lbs) 40NM + 90deg

Front damper fork pinch bolt .......... .. 30 ft-lbs + 180º ......(30 ft-lbs) 40NM + 180deg

Front damper fork to lower link .......... 66 ft-lbs ............... (66 ft-lbs) 90NM + 90deg

Upper link pinch bolt ........................ 29 ft-lbs ................ (30 ft-lbs) 40NM

Rear damper to upper mount ............ 26 ft-lbs ................. (26 ft-lbs) 35NM

Rear damper upper mount to body .... 37 ft-lbs ................. (37 ft-lbs) 50NM + 45deg

Rear damper to upright .................. 111 ft-lbs ................. (111 ft-lbs) 150NM + 180deg

Rear sway bar link to sway bar ......... 30 ft-lbs

Rear sway bar mounts .................... 19 ft-lbs

Wheel lug bolts .............................. 90 ft-lbs

Jezek
03-21-2019, 09:44 AM
Nice write up 👍🏼 Does anyone know the part numbers for the TTY (stretch bolts) that need to be replaced?

Nox05
03-21-2019, 11:37 AM
Nice job, Yabi you got some competition now. [:D]

ywang98
03-21-2019, 12:53 PM
Thanks for the post!

I think this tool from ECS can do the rear spring without disconnecting the control arms, but I don't know. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-strut-spring-compressor-set/013845sch01a~sch/

When I did the suspension on my R32, I only had the cheap spring compressors. And I almost couldn't put the rear springs out. That job nearly killed me... The front only took an hour, but I struggled with the back for 5 hours. The ECS Schwaben tool, I once saw it used by Eurocode to compress the front and the back springs. It really made the job easier.

Jezek
03-21-2019, 01:29 PM
Nice write up 👍🏼 Does anyone know the part numbers for the TTY (stretch bolts) that need to be replaced?
Did some research and dug them up. The following are the bolts and nuts for front & rear suspension components.

N-106-883-01
N-102-723-02
N-107-847-02
WHT-001-987
N-912-364-01
N-101-064-02

Yabi
03-22-2019, 05:06 AM
Fantastic write up! Thanks for sharing and strengthen the knowledge within our community. I'm looking forward to seeing part 2 when you have a chance to do the rears. [drool] [up]

SleeperCar
04-23-2019, 08:40 AM
ill be installing my ABT springs soon, ill definitely be referencing this!

Ill do my best to catalog the install as ill be doing the fronts and the rears

OverBoosted
05-03-2019, 04:31 AM
Great write up, how long did the front take to complete?

jkeith72
05-04-2019, 03:56 PM
This is VERY helpful! SO has anyone found a good DIY on the rears? Same as the B8.5? If so, Paul at DAP has a video on youtube...

nicklacoste
05-04-2019, 05:22 PM
Awesome write up!
I will be installing EMD springs and rear sway bar on my B9 A4 non-sport suspension next week-end. I would love a write up on the rear install as well, not much out there in terms of videos or literature.
I will post before and after pics as well!


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mobE
05-06-2019, 07:18 AM
Ffffffff, my spring compressor came in and I was about to get the project started when I realized I never ordered the replacement bolts.... oh well.... I guess I'll have to wait a few more day's 🤦*♂️
Before I order does anyone know the quantity needed of each?

SleeperCar
05-06-2019, 08:52 AM
me and some buddies did the full install (front and rears) of the ABT springs and it was relatively easy, rears took less time than the fronts actually. also, no need for a spring compressor. ill be doing a write up on my thread within the next few days. THe whole install took about 3 hrs excluding the time spent eating, drinking, and messing around.

the biggest hurdle was the bump stops with the rear shocks. ABT supplies shorter ones, but there is no way to remove the plug for the EDC module without depinning the actual connector. That was a strange situation. We ended up just not using the shorter bump stops.

nicklacoste
05-06-2019, 10:27 AM
Thanks SleeperCar!
Good to know about the rear bump stops. I need to trim mine for the non-sport A4 or else I will be riding on the bump stops.
Do you think I can trim them while still on the shock assembly?
I was planning on doing the job tomorrow so hoping for your write up when you have a sec.
Thanks again


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SleeperCar
05-06-2019, 11:56 AM
Thanks SleeperCar!
Good to know about the rear bump stops. I need to trim mine for the non-sport A4 or else I will be riding on the bump stops.
Do you think I can trim them while still on the shock assembly?
I was planning on doing the job tomorrow so hoping for your write up when you have a sec.
Thanks again


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if you dont have EDC, you can just remove the top bolt off the shock and then slide off the bump stop, EDC adds an electrical connection that is only removed by depinning the connector.

however, you can just cut the stock bump stop shorter as another alternative measure. in my case, ABT provided shorter bump stops

nicklacoste
05-06-2019, 02:34 PM
No EDC so should be good to go.
For the rears, you compressed the spring with your jack? How was it to get the new spring compressed upon install?
Let me know if you have any other tips as well. I have done suspension work before but not on Audi. Should be able to figure it all out.
Thanks again


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SleeperCar
05-06-2019, 04:33 PM
No EDC so should be good to go.
For the rears, you compressed the spring with your jack? How was it to get the new spring compressed upon install?
Let me know if you have any other tips as well. I have done suspension work before but not on Audi. Should be able to figure it all out.
Thanks again


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I have to get pics together and ill post a DIY...but there was no compression needed for either fronts or rears.

nicklacoste
05-06-2019, 07:36 PM
Cool, I look forward to your DIY write up with pictures. I know it will be helpful for everyone.
So you didn’t use a compressor to remove the front springs from the shocks?


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Jezek
05-06-2019, 08:03 PM
Ffffffff, my spring compressor came in and I was about to get the project started when I realized I never ordered the replacement bolts.... oh well.... I guess I'll have to wait a few more day's 🤦*♂️
Before I order does anyone know the quantity needed of each?
Left and right for each individual part number - so basically just 2 of each unless you have ocd like me and want L & R part numbers. Lol you should basically have 12 items in your cart when you’re ready to place the order.

mobE
05-07-2019, 01:27 PM
Left and right for each individual part number - so basically just 2 of each unless you have ocd like me and want L & R part numbers. Lol you should basically have 12 items in your cart when you’re ready to place the order.

Thanks mannn 🤙🤙

mobE
05-07-2019, 01:33 PM
Did some research and dug them up. The following are the bolts and nuts for front & rear suspension components.

N-106-883-01
N-102-723-02
N-107-847-02
WHT-001-987
N-912-364-01
N-101-064-02

Incase anyone is curious two of each cost $55 on ecs... well worth the piece of mind to me!

Jezek
05-07-2019, 02:31 PM
No problem! I ordered mine from GAP and believe it was right around $45 shipped. Most definitely worth peace of mind. Why risk it!

Diokhan
05-08-2019, 03:25 AM
me and some buddies did the full install (front and rears) of the ABT springs and it was relatively easy, rears took less time than the fronts actually. also, no need for a spring compressor. ill be doing a write up on my thread within the next few days. THe whole install took about 3 hrs excluding the time spent eating, drinking, and messing around.

the biggest hurdle was the bump stops with the rear shocks. ABT supplies shorter ones, but there is no way to remove the plug for the EDC module without depinning the actual connector. That was a strange situation. We ended up just not using the shorter bump stops.

Looking forward to your write up! Maybe it will be something I'll feel I'll be able to do on my own. When I had mine installed, I called 5 - 6 shops and they were all around $700. At some point I'm going to have to go back to stock, so your write up might save me some cash later on.

SleeperCar
05-09-2019, 09:26 AM
I have put my rear spring DIY in my thread, just so others searching can find it as well...

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/846987-a-build-thread-thread?p=13662264#post13662264

nicklacoste
05-09-2019, 06:46 PM
Thanks Sleeper!!!
I used your DIY today for the rears and it went very well. Your write up was great! Much easier than the fronts. They were a pain in the ass at first but once figured out not so bad.
I was able to trim the rear bump stops while on the shocks with a small hacksaw. Worked great.
I am only a weekend mechanic and did this no problem so I suggest that any mechanically inclined person will be able to do this job. Just give yourself a lot of time and be patient especially with the fronts.
Cheers


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SleeperCar
05-09-2019, 08:12 PM
Thanks Sleeper!!!
I used your DIY today for the rears and it went very well. Your write up was great! Much easier than the fronts. They were a pain in the ass at first but once figured out not so bad.
I was able to trim the rear bump stops while on the shocks with a small hacksaw. Worked great.
I am only a weekend mechanic and did this no problem so I suggest that any mechanically inclined person will be able to do this job. Just give yourself a lot of time and be patient especially with the fronts.
Cheers


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Absolutely, glad it helped man!

mobE
05-22-2019, 04:43 PM
Thanks OP! I used your walkthrough for my install!

scrapin240
02-20-2020, 12:22 PM
Thanks for this @SiRay6 !!! This was a life saver.

Also @SleeperCar for the rears!!

and @electron bom for the specs!!

Great team effort all! This is why forums are better than the book of faces!

Bilstein PSS10 are yummy :)



Some other pointers are to help put back in the upper sway bar bolt link, remove the 2 10mm plastic nuts and remove that little splash shield, and remove the T25 black screw that holds part of the inner fender liner, which is right under one of the 10mm plastic nuts. Makes for a much easier time placing that bolt back in.

Also, may want to pick up a front install bolt kit from ECS. Definitely helpful for an install.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/front-suspension-installation-kit/8w0412377akt/

Also if you order the rubber isolators along with the above you don't even have to take apart your OEM setup and don't need a spring compressor as you can wind the spring all the way down and no pressure on the mount on install.

dkmesa
04-21-2020, 11:17 AM
Thanks for the writeup. My offset wrench set skips 21mm and my triple square bit set skips M9. Awesome!

SHCKR
10-12-2020, 11:01 AM
Did my install today, and one of the rears (passenger side) is about 1/2 inch higher than the other. Have no idea why, all the parts are identical, springs fully seated into the lower perch, etc. Anyone else have experienced something similar? Different stiffness spring perhaps?
Passenger rear is at 26 1/4 from the ground on full low, and the rest of the wheels are adjusted to be about the same, however every time I try to make them perfectly the same, and go on a test drive, I come back and they're different again. I think it may be some settling.
I'm thinking I'll drive it for a day or two, let it fully settle, then adjust to same height on all 4 wheels, and get it aligned. Any thoughts on that?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/1ab1cb4b7711d1c3f4b57b2b68cb2253.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/2991cbbd8c7d646262f2f9798f69106b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/269514d31196b0b663a926a90eb2018b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/6fcbbc2d2679544ecc165a79d22c10c3.jpg

Auddiss
10-13-2020, 06:11 AM
Did my install today, and one of the rears (passenger side) is about 1/2 inch higher than the other. Have no idea why, all the parts are identical, springs fully seated into the lower perch, etc. Anyone else have experienced something similar? Different stiffness spring perhaps?
Passenger rear is at 26 1/4 from the ground on full low, and the rest of the wheels are adjusted to be about the same, however every time I try to make them perfectly the same, and go on a test drive, I come back and they're different again. I think it may be some settling.
I'm thinking I'll drive it for a day or two, let it fully settle, then adjust to same height on all 4 wheels, and get it aligned. Any thoughts on that?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/1ab1cb4b7711d1c3f4b57b2b68cb2253.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/2991cbbd8c7d646262f2f9798f69106b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/269514d31196b0b663a926a90eb2018b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/6fcbbc2d2679544ecc165a79d22c10c3.jpg

Set everything up mechanically the same. To many factors could throw off ground to fender measurement, ground uneven etc. I had a similar issue was going in circles for a while. Getting an alignment will help too. I would suggest adjustable upper control arms for the front too. No camber adjustment with factory arms

SHCKR
10-13-2020, 06:57 AM
My garage is level, and I measured on different surfaces. If I set everything mechanically the same passenger rear is 1/2 " higher then the rest

BrockDM
10-13-2020, 07:18 AM
Adjustable control arms aren't needed. As long as the toe is correct the additional camber is very minimal and wont chew tires.

SHCKR
10-13-2020, 12:40 PM
I adjusted it a bit more, and got the most consistent measurements all around I could. Now gonna go get it aligned, but here's a (dirty) picture.
That rear passenger is as low as it goes, so the rest is set up to match FTG on that wheel. (About 26 3/16)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/019609129e595d7f5f487842e838f1ea.jpg

BrockDM
10-13-2020, 01:08 PM
Looks so good man! You can still get up the drive right?! [emoji23]


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SHCKR
10-13-2020, 01:23 PM
Looks so good man! You can still get up the drive right?! [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Might leave a few more marks on the way in, but I can't hear anything scraping, must be a good sign...

SHCKR
10-13-2020, 04:06 PM
Ok I need some help. Took it to Big O Tires for an alignment, which is where it has been aligned before. After they fucked with the computer to reset the steering back to zero, all these errors started coming up, and they are clueless... They are going to try to unplug the battery for a few hours, reset to factory, then if that doesn't work, take it to Audi.
No errors driving it to alignment shop.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/5b36b16fdd78e7e3916b30baf8c9a58f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/3a2c4624c8aab939fd4ee4b1d3e0ee38.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/3b798e7033ba6995714bedec94becbc2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/7177ca12d8dac7dc3e6b71d98cb095ce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/aed942e2669dac4fc5ea8ccf0c3d4807.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/2fb42cd9fcb5ecf0caf97307ca985b00.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/624ff44f80d7c6b75cd6973c2bdb59a0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/c6031a9dd1bd3fa9743e11a7745d4bc8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/6ff7e14bd1b92fa791963fade779328e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/96ffc96a54804406e763c9fda6b483ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/d3909f0e79daf140d4a39f22080034af.jpg

alshafi
10-14-2020, 10:34 PM
That sucks. Any udpates? Did they figure it out? Let us know.

SHCKR
10-18-2020, 11:12 AM
Yup, Big O Tires went to reset the steering sensor, and somehow in the process reset/erased the programming for all the assistance systems.
It went to Audi, got a full recalibration, and all the errors are gone now.
I've only put about 20 miles on the car since I got it back, can't speak for whether it's fixed for good or if the errors will come back.
Ironically, about two months ago, it went to the same shop for an alignment (the only reason I took it there this time to begin with), and they reset the steering sensor at that time with no errors.
Audi says that because it's lowered, it caused all those issues, however Big O says it's because I have swapped steering wheels to the flat bottom, giving me a steering wheel error during start. Either way, driving it for a day or two after lowering, before alignment, no errors whatsoever, and they have aligned it before with the same steering wheel....
I think honestly, their tech, when he went to zero the steering sensor, messed something up, unlike the tech who did it last time.
I do have to give Big O the credit for making things right at zero cost to me. (Minus the rental that I had to get in the meanwhile).

SHCKR
11-05-2020, 12:53 PM
A little update: all four wheels settled about 1/4" over the last few weeks. The rear passenger side settled MORE than the rest, reinforcing my theory that something is up with that spring.
All wheels started at about 26 1/4 FTG, and all settled to right about 26, with the rear passenger going to about 25 13/16. I raised that spring 1/4" while adding spacers, and that brought it up to 26" FTG, making all 4 wheels about even.
I'm going to monitor it over the next few weeks, and probably drop the front a bit to add some rake.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201105/1c2454c1416323b626120ee9cd16caf7.jpg