C5 Allroad 4.2 V8 Swap Info

[Bordom]

**This thread will contain information regarding a 4.2 swap be it a 077 (belt) motor or a 079 (chain) motor. It will tend to focus more on the Belt driven 077 simply for reliability and availability of the engine**



079 Chain V8

Forum user swamper8 V8 swapped his 04 Allroad with a 079 4.2 about 6 years ago. It's a plug and play swap in terms of getting the motor running, but there's more wiring inside that needs attention for completeness. Here's what he had to say regarding the swap:


My car was originally a 2.7T BEL 6MT as well. I swapped the 4.2L chain in there, I didn't do a 6MT swap to a factory 4.2 AR. I can only speak to what it took to put the chain motor in but I believe the belt will be very similar. Obviously since the (chain) 4.2 came in 04-05 allroads, it physically fit. I got a complete 4.2 parts car that provided all the brackets/clips/hoses/do-dads etc. I highly highly highly recommend getting a parts car. You'll need so many parts to go along with the motor it's the only way to do a swap like this without going broke. I spent two full weekends comparing wiring diagrams. The good news is that between the 2.7 and 4.2, 90%+ of the ECM connections were identical. Everything needed to actually make the motor run was plug and play. The bad news is that the remaining 10% was a bitch to sort out. Specifically these areas:

1.) Cooling fans. 2.7T cars use a fan control module; two (small) electric fans and one mechanical fan. The 4.2L allroad used two electric fans only and they're controlled directly by the ECU. (PWM) The 4.2L A6 I have is back to one mechanical and two electric. The fan wiring is part of the body harness, not engine harness, so the wiring for them has to be surgically extracted from under the dash.

2.) There were differences in the HVAC between the 2.7 and 4.2. The 4.2 uses a evaporator outlet temp sensor, the 2.7T does not. That had to be swapped over. The chain 4.2 uses a compressor with a regulator valve, not a magnetic clutch. The factory AC clutch relay had to be bypassed and the feedback circuit to the HVAC also had to be jumped. HVAC head had to be recoded via VCDS.

3.) I had to add a couple wires to the ECM connectors in the plenum ECU enclosure. (car side) They are an unbelievable bitch to get to but I wanted my swap to be as close to factory as possible.

4.) You have to consider the ECU coding aspect. I learned how to recode the ECU for the SKC/cluster ID/VIN etc. I enlisted the help of someone else to sort out the actual tune and related issues.

There are other misc. items you have to keep in mind like if you take a 4.2 (any variety) out of an automatic car, you won't have the wires in the engine harness for the 01E reverse switch. So you will need to extract those two wires from your BEL harness and transfer them to the 4.2 harness. If the car is your DD, plan to have another vehicle to drive for a month+ so you can peacefully do the swap without the pressure of having to get your DD back on the road.

Basically you need well developed mechanical/electrical/electronic skills to pull it off. It's not hard per-say, but very time consuming. You have to think your way through a lot of issues as they arise.

I just found this thread a week ago. It's an interesting read. I like "OEM/FACTORY" installations, so I'm not interested in cutting up my lock carrier to fit some misc. radiator. But this guy regularly is fitting 4.2 Belt motors into B5 cars which have the same short nose as the C5 Allroad. So it's possible to do the swap without even modifying the nose of the car.



Wiring Diagrams

You can find free wiring diagrams here: **Site is in Russian but the provided links should send you straight to the PDF files**

04 Allroad Wiring Diagrams: http://mitchell-auto.ru/wiring-diagrams/audi-wd/2004-audi-allroad-quattro-wd.html

00 A6 Wiring Diagrams: http://mitchell-auto.ru/wiring-diagrams/audi-wd/2000-audi-a6-wd.html



077 Belt V8

The 4.2 077 (ART/AWN/BBD) will need some more finesse than the aforementioned 079 motor both in terms of wiring and fitment, however there should not be any significant modification required to the core support to get it to fit. I'm currently tracing out all the pins in the 2.7T BEL diagram and comparing them to the 4.2 AWN. The only issue is that I have not been able to find an easy to understand diagram for the AWN, as the PDF linked above for the 00 A6 may only be for the ART in 00. Can some one confirm?

Nollywood has provided ECU pinouts for the ME7.1 and ME7.1.1 ECU's in the S6, but so far I have not been able to confirm whether or not the wiring is the same for all C5 V8's. More experienced people please chime in. Here's what Nollywood has done for us:


Audi S6 4.2 V8 40V (AQJ) - Bosch Motronic ME7.1 ECU Pinouts.

001 - Earth (Brown).
002 - Earth (Brown).
003 - D131, connection 15 via fuse 232 (Black / Blue).
004 - Z28, Lambda probe 2 heater, pin 2 of connector T4v (Yellow / Blue).
005 - Z19, Lambda probe heater, pin 2 of connector T4u (Yellow / Green).
006 -
007 - N128, ignition coil 2, pin 3 (White / Black).
008 - N190, ignition coil 7, pin 3 (Blue / Red).
009 -
010 -
011 -
012 - G108, Lambda probe 2, pin 3 of connector T4v (Yellow)
013 - G108, Lambda probe 2, pin 4 of connector T4v (Green).
014 -
015 -
016 -
017 -
018 -
019 - A79, climate control panel in dash wiring harness, via T10n/10 (Blue / Lilac).
020 -
021 -
022 -
023 - N31, injector cylinder 2, pin 2 (Green).
024 - N85, injector cylinder 7, pin 2 (Green / White).
025 -
026 -
027 - G70, air mass meter, pin 3 (Black / Green).
028 -
029 - G70, air mass meter, pin 5 (Green).
030 - G5, rev counter, pin 6 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T15u/5 (Black / Lilac).
031 -
032 - Earth connection (screening) in engine compartment wiring harness.
033 - G185, accelerator pedal position sender 2, pin 4/-- via T15e/4 (Grey / Yellow).
034 - G185, accelerator pedal position sender 2, pin 6/S2 via T15e/6 (Brown / Green).
035 - G79, accelerator pedal position sender, pin 1/S1 via T15e/1 (Yellow / Blue).
036 - G79, accelerator pedal position sender, pin 3/-- via T15e/3 (Brown / Red).
037 - G5, rev counter, pin 11 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T10p/2 (Green / Blue).
038 - A16, cruise control connection in dash panel wiring harness via T15e/10 (Black / White).
039 - F36, clutch pedal switch, pin 1 via T15e/13 (Red / Green).
040 - E87, climate control panel, pin A7 via T15u/2 (Black / Yellow).
041 - E87, climate control panel, pin C15 viaT15u/3 (Black / Grey).
042 -
043 - OBD communication, track 193 via T10o/1 (Green / Black).
044 - N112, secondary air inlet valve, pin 2 (Lilac / Yellow).
045 - N261, intake manifold change over valve 2, pin 2 (Green / Red).
046 - J299, secondary air pump relay, pin 6/85 (Blue / Grey).
047 - K83, check engine lamp, pin 14 of connector T32a behind instrument cluster, via T10o/2 (White / Red)
048 - K83, check engine lamp, pin 13 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T10n/2 (Yellow / Brown).
049 - .
050 -
051 - G39, Lambda probe, pin 3 of connector T4u (Red).
052 -
053 - G70, air mass meter, pin 4 (Blue / Green).
054 - Speed signal, Pin 3 of connector T32, behind instrument cluster, via T10o/3 in ECU box (White / Blue).
055 - F47, cruise control brake pedal switch, pin 4 via T15e/12 (White / Red).
056 - F, brake lamp switch, pin 2 via T15e/11 (Red / Black).
057 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 3 via T15e/9 (Red / Yellow).
058 - CAN-Low, via T15u/14--->A122 (low bus) dash wiring harness--->TCU (Orange / Brown).
059 -
060 - CAN-hi, via T15u/15--->A121 (high bus) in dash wiring harness--->TCU (Orange / Black).
061 -
062 - Constant 12V+ via T10p/4 (Red).
063 -
064 - N80, activated charcoal system solenoid valve 1, pin 2 (Lilac / White).
065 - J17, fuel pump relay, pin 16/85 via T10p/8 (Red / Blue).
066 -
067 - E3, hazard warning light switch, pin 8 via pin 2 of connector T3au (Lilac / Blue).
068 -
069 -
070 - G39, Lambda probe, pin 4 of connector T4u (Lilac).
071 -
072 - G185, accelerator pedal position sender 2, pin 5/+ via T15e/5 (Green).
073 - G79, accelerator pedal position sender, pin 2/+ via T15e/2 (Yellow / Lilac).
074 -
075 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 2 via T15e/8 (Blue).
076 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 5 via T15e/7 (Red / Grey).
077 -
078 -
079 -
080 -
081 - Pin 25 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T10o/10 (Yellow).

082 - G28, engine speed sender, pin 3 of connector T3k (Grey).
083 - G188, throttle valve drive angle sender 2, pin #2 (Brown / Red).
084 - G188, throttle valve drive angle sender 2, pin #4 (Black / Brown).
085 - G70, air mass meter, pin 1 (Grey / Lilac).
086 - G40, Hall sender, pin 2 (Green / Lilac).
087 - G163, Hall sender 2, pin 2 (Blue / Lilac).
088 - N33, injector cylinder 4, pin 2 (Brown / Lilac).
089 - N86, injector cylinder 8, pin 2 (White / Yellow).
090 - G28, engine speed sender, pin 2 of connector T3k (Blue).
091 - G187, throttle valve drive angle sender 1, pin 6 (Blue / Brown).
092 - G187, throttle valve drive angle sender 1, pin 1 (Black / Grey).
093 - G2, coolant temperature sender, pin 4 (Grey / Red).
094 - N163, ignition coil 4, pin 3 (Grey / Yellow).
095 - N191, ignition coil 5, pin 3 Grey / Brown).
096 - N30, injector cylinder 1, pin 2 (Brown / Black).
097 - N83, injector cylinder 5, pin 2 (Brown / Green).
098 - G40, Hall sender, pin 1/+ (Green / Black).
099 - G61, knock sensor 1, pin 1 of connector T3bc (white).
100 -
101 -
102 - N, ignition coil 1, pin 3 (White / Green).
103 - N164, ignition coil 5, pin 3 (Brown / Green).
104 - N156, intake manifold change over valve, pin 2 (Green / Yellow).
105 - N145, electro / hydro engine mount solenoid valve, right, pin 2 (Blue / Red).
106 - G61, knock sensor 1, pin 2 of connector T3bc (brown).
107 - G66, knock sensor 2, pin 2 of connector T3bd (green).
108 - G2, coolant temperature sender, pin 3 (Brown / Grey).
109 -
110 - N189, ignition coil 6, pin 3 (Green / Grey).
111 - N158, ignition coil 2, pin 3 (Green / Brown).
112 - N84, injector cylinder 6, pin 2 (Brown / Blue).
113 - N32, injector cylinder 3 pin 2 (Brown / Grey).
114 -
115 - N205 / N208, inlet camshaft timing adjustment valves 1 / 2, pin 2 (Brown / Green).
116 - N144, electro / hydro engine mount solenoid valve, left, pin 2 (Blue / Red).
117 - G186, throttle valve drive, pin 3/M+ (Red / Lilac).
118 - G186, throttle valve drive, pin 5/M- (Brown / Lilac).
119 -
120 -
121 -


Audi S6 4.2 V8 40V (ANK) - Bosch Motronic ME7.1.1 ECU Pinouts.

001 - Earth (Brown).
002 - Earth (Brown).
003 -
004 -
005 - 005 - Z19, Lambda probe heater, pin 2 of connector T4u (Yellow).
006 - Z30, Lambda probe 2 heater, downstream of catalyst, pin 2 of connector T4t (Yellow / White).
007 - N127, ignition coil 2, pin 3 (White / Blue).
008 - N325, ignition coil 7, pin 3 (Blue / Yellow).
009 -
010 - G131, Lambda probe 2 downstream of catalyst, pin 3 of connector T4t (Green).
011 - G131, Lambda probe 2 downstream of catalyst, pin 4 of connector T4t (Yellow).
012 - G108, Lambda probe 2, pin 3 of connector T4v (White).
013 - G108, Lambda probe 2, pin 4 of connector T4v (Brown).
014 -
015 -
016 -
017 -
018 -
019 - N31, injector 2, pin 2 (Green).
020 -
021 - ABS connection (15a), T10n/4 via 10A fuse S7 (White).
022 -
023 - J271, Motronic current supply relay, pin 4/86 (White / Black).
024 - N85, injector cylinder 7, pin 2 (Green / White).
025 -
026 - G70, air mass meter, pin 1 (Grey).
027 - G70, air mass meter, pin 3 (Black / Green).
028 -
029 - G70, air mass meter, pin 5 (Green).
030 -
031 -
032 -
033 -
034 -
035 -
036 -
037 - G5, rev counter, pin 11 of connector T32 behind instrument cluster, via T10p/2 (Green / Blue).
038 - A16, cruise control connection in dash panel wiring harness via T17i//10 (Black / White).
039 - F36, clutch pedal switch, pin 1 via T17i/13 (Red / Green).
040 - E87, climate control panel, pin A7 via T17k/2 (Black / Yellow).
041 - 041 - E87, climate control panel, pin C15 viaT15u/3 (Black / Grey).
042 -
043 - OBD communication, track 193 via T10o/1 (Green / Black).
044 - N112, secondary air inlet valve, pin 2 (Lilac / Yellow).
045 - N261, intake manifold change-over valve 2, pin 2 (Green / Black). ** ASG (A6 models).
045 - N335, variable intake manifold change-over valve, pin 2 (Green / Black). *** ANK (S6 models).
046 - J299, secondary air pump relay, pin 6/85 (Blue / Grey).
047 -
048 - N156, intake manifold change-over valve, pin 2 (Blue / Black).
049 - .
050 -
051 - G39, Lambda probe, pin 3 of connector T4u (Red).
052 -
053 - G70, air mass meter, pin 4 (Blue / Green).
054 -
055 - F47, cruise control brake pedal switch, pin 4 via T17i/12 (White / Red).
056 - F, brake lamp switch, pin 2 via T17i/11 (Red / Black).
057 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 3 via T17i/9 (Red / Yellow).
058 - CAN-Low, via T17k/13--->A122 (low bus) dash wiring harness--->TCU (Orange / Brown).
059 -
060 - CAN-hi, via T17k/14--->A121 (high bus) in dash wiring harness--->TCU (Orange / Black).
061 -
062 - Constant 12V+ via T10p/4 (Red).
063 - Z29, Lambda probe 1 heater, downstream of catalyst, pin 2 of connector T4s (Yellow / Red).
064 - N80, activated charcoal system solenoid valve 1, pin 2 (Lilac / White).
065 - J17, fuel pump relay, pin 16/85 via T10p/8 (Red / Blue).
066 -
067 - E3, hazard warning light switch, T17k/16 (Lilac / Blue).
068 - G130, Lambda probe downstream of catalyst, pin 3 of connector T4s (Grey).
069 - G130, Lambda probe downstream of catalyst, pin 4 of connector T4s (Blue).
070 - G39, Lambda probe, pin 4 of connector T4u (Lilac).
071 -
072 -
073 -
074 -
075 -
076 - E45, cruise control system switch, pin 5 via T17i/7 (Red / Grey).
077 -
078 -
079 -
080 -
081 -

082 - G28, engine speed sender, pin 3 of connector T3k (Grey).
083 - G188, throttle valve drive angle sender 2, pin 2 (Brown / White).
084 - G188, throttle valve drive angle sender 2, pin 4 (Black / Brown).
085 -
086 - G163, Hall sender 2, pin 2 (Green / Lilac).
087 - G40, Hall sender, pin 2 (Blue / Lilac).
088 - N33, injector cylinder 4, pin 2 (Lilac).
089 - N86, injector 8, pin 2 (White / Lilac).
090 - G28, engine speed sender, pin 2 of connector T3k (Blue).
091 - G187, throttle valve drive angle sender 1, pin 6 (Yellow / Black).
092 - G187, throttle valve drive angle sender, pin 1 (Black / Blue).
093 - G2, coolant temperature sender, pin 4 (Grey / Red).
094 - N292, ignition coil 4, pin 3 (Grey / White).
095 - N326, ignition coil 8, pin 3 (Grey / Black)
096 - N30, injector cylinder 1, pin 2 (Black / Red).
097 - N83, injector cylinder 5, pin 2 (Brown / Yellow).
098 - G163, Hall sender 2, pin 1/+ (Green / Black).
099 - G61, knock sensor 1, pin 1 of connector T3bc (white).
100 -
101 -
102 - N70, ignition coil 1, pin 3 (White / Green).
103 - N323, ignition coil 5, pin 3 (White / Brown).
104 -
105 - N144, electro / hydro engine mount solenoid valve, left, pin 2 (Blue / Red).
106 - G61, knock sensor 1, pin 2 of connector T3bc (brown).
107 - G66, knock sensor 2, pin 2 of connector T3bd (green).
108 - G2, coolant temperature sender, pin 3 (Brown / Grey).
109 -
110 - N324, ignition coil 6, pin 3 (Green / Grey).
111 - N291, ignition coil 3, pin 3 (Green / Brown).
112 - N84, injector cylinder 6, pin 2 (Brown / Blue).
113 - N32, injector cylinder 3, pin 2 (Grey / Green).
114 -
115 - N205, inlet camshaft timing adjustment valve, pin 2 (Brown / Grey).
116 - N145, electro / hydro engine mount solenoid valve, right, pin 2 (Blue / Red).
117 - G186, throttle valve drive, pin 3/M+ (Red / Lilac).
118 - G186, throttle valve drive, pin 5/M-- (Brown / Lilac).
119 -
120 - N208, inlet camshaft timing adjustment valve, pin 2 (Brown / Yellow).
121 -

A link to Nollywood's original thread: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/701197-Audi-C5-A6-S6-4-2-V8-40V-ECU-Pin-Outs

I will update the main post with the differences in wiring from the 2.7t BEL and AWN as soon as I have mapped it out, along with any other relevant information that needs to be posted (physical fitment, radiator selection, which pins to move, etc)

077 required parts:

ENGINE
-V8 lower away bar brackets, or 4.2 allroad sway bar brackets. Lowers need spacers if using regular V8 brackets.
-4.2 engine (complete)
-4.2/2.8 downpipes
-vacuum reservoirs(located in fenders of 4.2 cars)

TRANSMISSION
-2.7T clutch/flywheel (retaining spacer plate) (Can also use TTV 2.7t flywheel machined for B7 RS4 clutch kit PN:3509)
-TTV V8 to 01E Flywheel PN:4646(not using spacer plate)(Use B7 RS4 clutch kit and flywheel bolts N90665001)
-If converting from 4.375 to 4.11 final drive, axle cups must be swapped in rear diff and transmission to retain Allroad axles.

POWER STEERING
-4.2 high pressure line/1.8t high pressure line will also work but routing is not the best.
-use stock 4.2 low pressure feed line to res.

COOLING
-V8 expansion tank
-1.8T radiator - Lower outlet will need to be moved 90° to be straight with core. Upper inlet needs to be moved 45° up and 45° left(facing front of car)
Must make custom mounts for the radiator.
-4.2 heater core hoses

CORE SUPPORT
-used my stock 2.7T core support. Much of it was hacked to make room. Highly recommend finding a 1.8T support if you want a more OEM look.

ELECTRICAL
-4.2 battery positive cable run from starter/alternator to battery
-cluster will read RPM without recode.
-defeat immobilizer on ECU
-EFK is a must. I ditched the inner aux fan and replaced with a slimmer aftermarket one for wash of mounting, as well as slimmer profile. Simply cut wires and connect to factory harness.

*POINT TO NOTE*
My Allroad was a plug and play affair with this 03 S6 BBD. I am confident that the S6 and 03 Allroad uses the same engine/body wiring. +03.5 Allroad use different wiring on the body side (evidenced by swamperv8) so repinning the connectors is a must.

[SteelyS6]

Cant wait to see where this leads!

[swamper8]

Here's the link I was referring to at the bottom of my post which was copied above. This shows what's needed to go with a belt V8 into a B5 chassis which will basically be the same as the C5 Allroad:
http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50232

I'd be happy to answer any questions related to the BAS/BHF swap into the C5. I am also just starting to delve into a possible belt motor swap.

[Bordom]

I've completed mapping out the wiring for the 00 4.2. After comparing them with what Nollywood put down, It's different enough to cause some worry as it doesn't match the ME7.1 or ME7.1.1 wiring that he mapped out. Hopefully it's just a function of the ART motor, and not the AWN/BBD

Wiring as mapped from the free links above for 00 A6:
001-Earth (Brown)
002-Earth (Brown)
003-
004-Left Primary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Blue)
005-Right Primary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Green)
006-Left Secondary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/White)
007-Cyl. 2 Ignition Coil, Pin 3(White/Black)
008-Cyl. 7 Ignition Coil, Pin 3(Blue/Red)
009-
010-Left Secondary O2, Pin 3 (Brown, grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Yellow pin 4)
011-Left Secondary O2, Pin 4 (Yellow, grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Brown pin 3)
012-Left Primary O2, Pin 3 (Yellow, grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Green pin 4)
013-Left Primary O2, Pin 4 (Green, grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Yellow pin 3)
014-
015-
016-
017-
018-
019-A/C & Intrument cluster Systems (Blue/Violet)
020-
021-
022-
023-
024-
025-Leak Detection Pump, Pin 2 (Yellow/Red)
026-
027-MAF Sensor, Pin 3 (Black/Green)
028-
029-MAF Sensor, Pin 5 (Green)
030-MIL T32/6, Back of Instrument Cluster (Black/Violet)
031-
032-O2/MAF Input?? (Brown/Green)
033-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 5 (Grey/Yellow)
034-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 6 (Brown/Green)
035-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 1 (Yellow/Blue)
036-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 3 (Brown/Red)
037-MIL T32/11, Back of Instrument Cluster (Green/Blue)
038-Cruise Control (Black/White)
039-Clutch Switch (Red/Green)
040-A/C System (Black/Yellow)
041-A/C System (Black/Grey)
042-
043-Green/Black -> Green/Red
044-SAI Solenoid Valve, Pin 2 (Violet/Yellow)
045-Intake Mani. Tuning Valve, Pin 2 (Green/Red)
046-SAI Relay, Pin 6 (Blue/Grey)
047-MIL T32a/14, Back of Instrument Cluster (White/Red->Yellow/Brown)
048-MIL T32/13, Back of Instrument Cluster (Yellow/Brown->Red/Brown)
049-
050-
051-Right Primary O2, Pin 3 (Red)Grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Violet Pin 4
052-
053-MAF Sensor, Pin 4 (Blue/Green)
054-MIL T32/3, Back of Instrument Cluster(White/Blue) and connected to A/C System (Green/Blue)
055-Cruise Control (White/Red)
056-Brake Light Switch (Red/Black)
057-Cruise Control (Red/Yellow)
058-ABS/Trans/Instr. Clstr (Orange/Brown)
059-
060-ABS/Trans/Instr. Clstr (Orange/Black)
061-
062-Battery Pos. Terminal (Red) 30* to Fuel Pump Relay 17*
063-Right Secondary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Red)
064-EVAP Purge Valve, Pin 2 (Violet/White)
065-S* to 16*, ECU Box (Red/Blue)
066-
067-Emergency Flasher & Airbag Control Module (Violet/Blue)
068-Right Secondary O2, Pin 3 (Grey)Grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Blue Pin 4
069-Right Secondary O2, Pin 4 (Blue)Grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Grey Pin 3
070-Right Primary O2, Pin 4 (Violet) Grounded @32 BLK>RD/GN and tied with Red Pin 3
071-
072-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 2/4 (Grey)
073-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 2/4 (Yellow/Violet)
074-
075-Cruise Control (Blue)
076-Cruise Control (Red/Grey)
077-
078-
079-
080-Leak Detection Pump, Pin 1 (White/Yellow)
081-MIL T32/25, Back of Instrument Cluster (Yellow)
082-Engine Speed Sensor, Pin 3 (Grey)
083-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 2 (Brown/Red)
084-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 4 (Black/Brown)
085-MAF Sensor, Pin 1 (Grey/Violet)
086-Cam Position Sensor 1, Pin 2 (Green/Violet)
087-Cam Position Sensor 2, Pin 2 (Blue/Violet)
088-Cyl. 4 Fuel Injector, Pin2 (Brown/Violet)
089-Cyl. 8 Fuel Injector, Pin2 (White/Yellow)
090-Engine Speed Sensor, Pin 2 (Blue)
091-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 6 (Blue/Brown)
092-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 1 (Black/Grey)
093-Coolant Temp. Sensor, Pin 4 (Grey/Red)
094-Cyl. 4 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Grey/Yellow)
095-Cyl. 8 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Grey/Brown)
096-Cyl. 1 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Black)
097-Cyl. 5 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Green)
098-Cam Position Sensor 1+2, Pin 1 (Green/Black)
099-Right Knock Sensor, Pin 1 (White) - Left Knock Sensor, Pin2 (Yellow)
100-
101-
102-Cyl. 1 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (White/Green)
103-Cyl. 5 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (White/Brown)
104-Intake Manifold Change-over, Pin 2 (Green/Yellow)
105-Right Engine Mount Solenoid, Pin 2 (Blue/Red)
106-Right Knock Sensor, Pin 2 (Brown)
107-Left Knock Sensor, Pin 1 (Green)
108-Right/Left Knock Sensor (Pin 3), Engine Speed sensor (Pin 1), Engine Coolant Sensor (Pin 3), Left/Right Cam Pos. Sensor (Pin 3)
109-
110-Cyl. 6 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Green/Grey)
111-Cyl. 3 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Green/Brown)
112-Cyl. 6 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Blue)
113-Cyl. 3 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
114-
115-Left/Right Cam Chain Tensioner, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
116-Left Engine Mount, Pin 2 (Blue/Red)
117-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 3 (Red/Violet)
118-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 5 (Brown/Violet)

If anyone has any questions, then feel free to ask. I certainly know there's more to be learned reading these damned diagrams lol

[Bordom]

Just finished the 2.7T BEL pinout. Most stuff looks to be the same between the 2 motors. Should drop in and turn over without issue:

03+ 2.7T BEL
001-Earth (Brown)
002-Earth (Brown)
003-Ignition Coil Power, Pin 1 (Red/Green)
004-Left Primary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Blue)
005-Right Primary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Green)
006-Left Secondary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/White)
007-
008-
009-Idle Air Control Valve, Pin 2 (Green/Yellow)
010-Left Secondary O2, Pin 3 (Violet, grounded @G12 BLK and tied with Red pin 4)
011-Left Secondary O2, Pin 4 (Red, grounded @G12 BLK and tied with Violet pin 3)
012-Left Primary O2, Pin 3 (Brown, grounded @G12 BLK and tied with White pin 4)
013-Left Primary O2, Pin 4 (White, grounded @G12 BLK and tied with Brown pin 3)
014-
015-
016-
017-
018-Left Cam Chain Tensioner, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
019-
020-Left EGT, Pin 1 (Blue/Red)
021-Blue/Red to White > Brake Switch Pin 3, Clutch Switch Pin 1, Fuse 7 (10a)
022-Right Cam Chain Tensioner, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
023-ECM Power Relay, Pin 4 (White/Black)
024-
025-Leak Detection Pump, Pin 2 (Yellow/Red)
026-Intake Air Temp. Sensor, Pin 1 (Green/White)
027-MAF Sensor, Pin 3 (Black/Green)
028-
029-MAF Sensor, Pin 4 (Green)
030-
031-
032-
033-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 5 (Grey/Yellow)
034-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 6 (Brown/Green->Blue)
035-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 4 (Yellow/Blue)
036-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 3 (Brown/Red)
037-MIL T32/11 (Green/Blue) Branches to A/C Control Head (A2)
038-Cruise Control (Black/White)
039-Clutch Switch, Pin 2 (Red/Green)
040-A/C System, A7 (Black/Yellow)
041-A/C System, C15 (Black/Grey)
042-
043-MIL T32a/28, (Green/Black -> Green/Red)
044-SAI Solenoid Valve, Pin 2 (Yellow/Green)
045-
046-SAI Relay, Pin 6 (Blue/Grey)
047-
048-
049-
050-Intake Air Temp. Sensor, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
051-Right Primary O2, Pin 3 (Yellow)Grounded @G12 Black and tied with Green Pin 4
052-
053-MAF Sensor, Pin 1 (Violet/Grey)
054-
055-Brake Switch, Pin 2 (White/Red)
056-Brake Switch, Pin 4 (Red/Black)
057-Cruise Control (Red/Yellow)
058-Computer Data Lines (Orange/Brown)
059-
060-Computer Data Lines (Orange/Black)
061-Right EGT, Pin 1 (Blue/Brown)
062-Fuel Pump Relay 30* to 17*, ECM Power Supply Mod Pin 1+2
063-Right Secondary O2, Pin 2 (Yellow/Red)
064-EVAP Purge Valve, Pin 2 (Violet/White)
065-S* to 16*, ECU Box (Red/Blue)
066-
067-Emergency Flasher & Airbag Control Module (Violet/Blue)
068-Right Secondary O2, Pin 3 (Grey)Grounded @G12 Black and tied with Blue Pin 4
069-Right Secondary O2, Pin 4 (Blue)Grounded @G12 Black and tied with Grey Pin 3
070-Right Primary O2, Pin 4 (Green) Grounded @G12 Black and tied with Yellow Pin 3
071-
072-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 1 (Grey->Brown/Green)
073-Throttle Position Sensor, Pin 2 (Yellow/Violet)
074-
075-Cruise Control (Blue)
076-Cruise Control (Red/Grey)
077-
078-
079-
080-Leak Detection Pump, Pin 1 (White/Yellow)
081-
082-Engine Speed Sensor, Pin 3 (Grey)
083-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 2 (Brown/Red)
084-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 4 (Black/Brown)
085-Brake Booster Pressure Sensor, Pin 4 (Grey/Yellow)
086-Cam Position Sensor 2, Pin 2 (Green/Violet)
087-Cam Position Sensor 1, Pin 2 (Blue/Violet)
088-Cyl. 3 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Violet)
089-Cyl. 6 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (White/Yellow)
090-Engine Speed Sensor, Pin 2 (Blue)
091-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 6 (Green/Red)
092-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 1 (Black/Grey)
093-Coolant Temp. Sensor, Pin 4 (Grey/Red)
094-Cyl. 3 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Grey/Yellow)
095-Cyl. 6 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Grey/Brown)
096-Cyl. 1 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Black)
097-Cyl. 4 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Green)
098-Air Temp. Sensor Pin 3, Left/Right Cam Pos. Sensor Pin 1, Brake Booster Sensor Pin 3 (Green/White)
099-Right Knock Sensor, Pin 1 (White) - Left Knock Sensor, Pin2 (Yellow)
100-
101-Charge Air Temp. Sensor, Pin 4 (Blue/Grey)
102-Cyl. 1 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (White/Green)
103-Cyl. 4 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (White/Brown)
104-
105-
106-Right Knock Sensor, Pin 2 (Brown)
107-Left Knock Sensor, Pin 1 (Green)
108-Right/Left Knock Sensor Pin 3, Engine Speed sensor Pin 1, Engine Coolant Sensor Pin 3, Left/Right 109-Cam Pos. Sensor Pin 3, Brake Booster Sensor Pin 1 (Brown/Grey)
109-
110-Cyl. 2 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Green/Grey)
111-Cyl. 5 Ignition Coil, Pin 3 (Green/Brown)
112-Cyl. 2 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Blue)
113-Cyl. 5 Fuel Injector, Pin 2 (Brown/Grey)
114-Brake Booster Relay, Pin 6 (White/Yellow)
115-
116-Wastegate Bypass Valve (Blue/Green)
117-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 3 (Red/Violet)
118-Throttle Valve Control Mod, Pin 5 (Brown/Violet)

[csosnowski]

I like this.

[8520]

Pinning the ecu doesn't really matter in my opinion. It's the wiring at the cabin harness that does.

The ecu is it's own system and needs very little to run the engine.

If you match engine harness by year to your car, it will greatly simplify the wiring and will be mostly plug and play.

[Bordom]

Pinning the ecu doesn't really matter in my opinion. It's the wiring at the cabin harness that does.

The ecu is it's own system and needs very little to run the engine.

If you match engine harness by year to your car, it will greatly simplify the wiring and will be mostly plug and play.
I think this is what you posted before. Because it's an 02 S6, it should be closer to my 03 Allroad right?

I've no idea where to find chassis wiring diagrams so if you got them, please share
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170530/0c142de4daeffee59b95dcf2663d354e.jpg

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[swamper8]

One thing you want to pay attention to is fuse sizes. Example: yes all the fuel injector and ignition coil wires are plug and play between motors but do they have the same fuse ratings? If you're running 8 coils off a 5A fuse that used to power 6 coils, you could start popping that fuse, overheat wires etc. That's just an example, but should be part of your research. There are subtle differences between the motors as far as what fuse powers what circuit(s).
My 2000-2004 A6/RS6/Allroad Bentley manual got me about 95% of the way to where I needed to be as far as wiring went. The other document which was linked to above helped me with some misc. items, though the colors not always accurate on that.

[8520]

I think this is what you posted before. Because it's an 02 S6, it should be closer to my 03 Allroad right?

I've no idea where to find chassis wiring diagrams so if you got them, please share
[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170530/0c142de4daeffee59b95dcf2663d354e.jpg[IMG]

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk


I manually pulled all my info from a hardcover bentley. Anything I have is posted in my build thread.

The main issue is the underhood relay that powers the coil packs etc on the can based cars. If you swap year for year, the wiring should be a breeze.

[Bordom]

I manually pulled all my info from a hardcover bentley. Anything I have is posted in my build thread.

The main issue is the underhood relay that powers the coil packs etc on the can based cars. If you swap year for year, the wiring should be a breeze.

I sealed a deal for an S6 motor with all brackets, downpipes, wiring harness and ECU for a hella steal. Wiring between that and the Allroad should be fairly simple.

Now with that photo above, all I have to do is make sure the body plugs in my Allroad are the same (Or close) and the swap should be a breeze.


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[8520]

I sealed a deal for an S6 motor with all brackets, downpipes, wiring harness and ECU for a hella steal. Wiring between that and the Allroad should be fairly simple.

Now with that photo above, all I have to do is make sure the body plugs in my Allroad are the same (Or close) and the swap should be a breeze.


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One thing you'll want to keep in mind is that some cabin plugs might not be pinned.

Same year harness, mostly plug and play. Different year? Better hope you're good with a bentley.

[Bordom]

One thing you'll want to keep in mind is that some cabin plugs might not be pinned.

Same year harness, mostly plug and play. Different year? Better hope you're good with a bentley.
If you can get me scans of those pages for an 03 Allroad and an 03 S6, it's be greatly appreciated

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[Bordom]

Don't worry guys, this thread isn't forgotten. Should be taking delivery the motor sometime soon (3-6weeks ish)

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[Bordom]

So no motor yet, but I'm making some progress on the wiring side of things.

I got SteelyS6 to send me some pictures of the body plugs he has for his spare 4.2 BBD. The pics he sent are here:


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/d576472f4b0af1c1a29204e9c4796c95.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/f8d260de24d6db2dc13dc04c5b288cc5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/a9fd0117158375a0345f42cbab7712e7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/45cbe5190afe1d9126a33893435f3e3b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/ef3622d3cc2e48b2e36ec9b975a1607e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/3071032467da8cfd59e3b016fb576e8e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/f3b0e4a902b62d5f5edfc6785fe2f985.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/2dcbf5bf88c4352f1dbfdff06f21187f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/f904607781aa7bf6ba4fcb1f6d4ab1e7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/33e40901abd9b76abd85f9ba1713cc96.jpg

These are plugs from my 03 BEL which show wiring colours for each side of the connectors:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/5378bc339021d849663797530475abdc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/87bb63cb3078b673d5ad2d229062de46.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/a5211433cfe7ede1145c2229dc799663.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/14aa436100c1a970688513ad7a785edb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/97e2949441ef03b770d4ddf88a0e52f5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/b08c451bf12790389c1fc4125643aff5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/c0b7b94c422c8172e8b51db48ad6b738.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/c0cc2cdec21a72d80a3e060ee648b168.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/5244958889ca66a112b8121419d10fbd.jpg

All of the connectors between the BEL 2.7t and the BBD 4.2 are the same shape and size. I referenced the chart below to make sure that my body plugs somewhat matched the body plugs in the AR, and I found that the motor should electrically plug and play. The issue will be re-pinning the engine harness to match the correct orientation of the plugs in the chassis to take care of whatever lights are left on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/e787423842afc854ef8652eceabb086a.jpg

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[swamper8]

I can tell you that when I did my AWN swap, the connectors were not the same. They were the same color and quantity, but there was extremely subtle differences in keying between the two. I didnt notice it until I tried to plug them in to the car and they wouldn't snap in place. Not only did I have to swap over my BEL harness housings but some of the contacts are different too. I tracked down the correct family of electrical contacts and bought them at mouser. BBD and AWN are near identical motors so I'm giving you a heads up to hope for the best but expect the worse. Also, If you haven't already, purchase a kit of electrical contact tools. They have them on Amazon for under $100. Since I had to remove every wire on my harness the right tools made all the difference. Paper clips and tweezers just get to be too cumbersome with that many wires.
It's relatively close pin for pin. Not exact. As stated above, everything needed to get the motor running is the same. The other differences (for me) were misc signals.
I have no idea why Audi would have made such a meaningless change. My 2001 AWN 4.2 is ME7.1.1 as is my 2004 BEL 2.7T. The B6S4, which is a completely different vehicle (B6 vs C5) also shares identical plenum connectors/contacts to my Allroad. The C5A6 which was my motor donor car was the only one that was different. It was frustrating. If you're purchasing a BBD that's a C5S6 motor which is why I have my concerns.

[Bordom]

Hmm, I'll spend the 10 mins and dig into the ecu box again to find out if the keying is the same. What a stupid difference to make on the connectors if the key is different.

That, or I can modify the connector to accept the car keying

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[Bordom]

And here's the verdict:

Keying is the same.

Allroad black plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/67a5d83e5f6300f31c1b3aa4fcf49dc5.jpg

S6 black plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/b1876c75d0303e4d2dfe622ce3ede796.jpg

Allroad tan plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/4f0cb87b238afd76f031a7c5104d60b4.jpg

S6 tan plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/f6050b362535609e6efad34423ab1bd6.jpg

Allroad red plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/f0e7a3c22d61e1de278be89eba614466.jpg

S6 red plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/f9963469b23ab88409fc09e888cb74cb.jpg

Allroad orange plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/735a2da2bfef6309d59f9d94c99674a8.jpg

S6 orange plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/884ab9522f9d2c2eedcde3057605a6cc.jpg

Allroad white plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/22b191b04e3b9d168380aaa329a4457b.jpg

S6 white plug
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170915/e343be1a66097d3e66b8356803ed4af6.jpg

All the keys are the same as far as I can tell so I should be good to go

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[swamper8]

That's awesome! You lucked out. Its even more of a mystery why only my engine and harness were different. My red connector was actually two pieces. One slid into the other.....*shrugs*

[Bordom]

Coming up on time to swap the motor and it's time to look for a radiator that will work.

Surfing Rockauto I was able to find the dimensions of the stock 2.7T radiator used in the Allroad. Picture below.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171005/0ea01a043099f170d2b61e442e4724c1.jpg

Then I had the brilliant idea of using the 4.2 Allroad radiator. Narrow body C5, V8, what could go wrong!? Lots lol
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171005/38b1eb86163cdea949e84a497ca079cc.jpg

Looking at the above, the 4.2 Allroad rad is 2 1/8" bigger than the 2.7T. Connections are 1/4" bigger, its 1/2" thicker and the trans cooler is slightly larger as well. Obviously beefier to cool that monster.

My next thought was to use a B6/B7 1.8T/2.0T rad because everyone uses 1.8T rads for the swaps, and they're found in many a VAG product. Similar in width, bit thinner but not as high.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171005/8ec791c9f4d8656c82200fca09e3c9aa.jpg

I then compared the B6/B7 rad to the B5 1.8T one, and hot damn is it small.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171006/70a5aa4dfa149b5c128a51467aacd390.jpg

The better option might be to use the B6 1.8T rad as it's a better fit and use some silicon couplers to ease the transition from the rad to the engine coolant hoses.

I could use the 4.2 rad, but it depends on how much I want to sacrifice of the headlights lol

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[Bordom]

More related to the Radiator:

Taken from another thread I made to try and solve questions related to the swap:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?p=12714141

Regarding Allroad radiators
4.2 radiator

http://www.rockauto.com/info/420/8012639__ra_p.jpg

2.7T radiator

http://www.rockauto.com/info/420/8012974__ra_p.jpg

Upon further inspection of the pictured radiators, you'll notice that the 4.2 radiator is noticeably thinner on the right side of the rad compared to the 2.7T unit.

It also looks like the left side is also somewhat smaller. I'm gonna go on a hunch and say that the 4.2 Allroad core support is the same between Allroads.

Same part number, but different revisions.


ETKA gives 2 different part numbers: 4Z7805588 for V6 and 4Z7805588D for V8. Looking at pictures they're very similar but not identical, biggest differences I saw are the threaded mounts for what I assume are electric fans (missing on v6), and different cutouts for the rad inlets/outlets. Rad mounting looks the same though, so you should be able to make it work with some modifications.


So, this swap is postponed until after winter since I'll be working outside and I still have yet to receive the motor and everything related to it.

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[8520]

I ended up using my s6 radiator with my 2.7 swap as it was what fit the core support. I think you should use the right radiator for your core support. Making hoses fit is a lot easier than making a radiator fit.

Don't know if you have a napa near you but they have tons of hoses in stock, so just get a general idea of what you need and walk in to compare.

[Bordom]

I ended up using my s6 radiator with my 2.7 swap as it was what fit the core support. I think you should use the right radiator for your core support. Making hoses fit is a lot easier than making a radiator fit.

Don't know if you have a napa near you but they have tons of hoses in stock, so just get a general idea of what you need and walk in to compare.Good point. It keeps the swap budget friendly and there's a football field's worth of room to move the radiator forward.

I've played around with the idea, but we'll see how the finances are after winter

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[Bordom]

So you guys know this swap isn't forgotten, here's the headers I grabbed for this swap:

B6 S4 SSAC Longtubes for this application. They should fit without much (if any) modification.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/60558f02329eccefcdd86caf714642aa.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/470ad45dad9452e96b9df8ac4b022100.jpg

The collectors do need a bunch of work, so I'm thinking of having them modified so the collector is more efficient. I.e. elongating the part where the tubes have already merged before going 2.5"
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180216/ebf765382eb326e126a18037e0b02080.jpg

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[8520]

Glad to see you still working on this.

[Bordom]

Glad to see you still working on this.Slow and painful haha. Someone has to advance the platform

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[8520]

Slow and painful haha. Someone has to advance the platform

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I've done my share of advancing [:p]

That being said, I'm looking to start producing some interior bits for the c5 chassis this year. We'll see how time treats me.

[Bordom]

This is gonna be an update from when I started last week to now:

It's been a while but finally ready to start working on the Allroad. Area is prepped and ready to start using.

I got my flywheel from TTV. 18lb billet 4.2 8 bolt Flywheel, 11.2mm shorter so no need to use the trans spacer, and machined to accept the B7 RS4 flywheel.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/15e272108db86bebd8efa7ada6fdf78d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/21d60a7f63bb0857796effa1ceab9741.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/540e65dd3c177ff953e0dea999f5ff5d.jpg

Area ready to go. I'm also swapping trans from the 4.375 final drive to 4.11, rear diff to match
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/df8b434ede74a2c65ca11ef7d8961ec4.jpg

I started work on the 4.2 first. I wanted to be sure I could remove the exhaust manifolds without snapping all the studs. Here's what they looked like before:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/e6a2b10459cb44ce842afe6cfe9e1c9f.jpg

All crusty and looking mighty seized.

I put map gas and candle wax to work (since I didn't have penetrating fluid), so I finally got the driver side manifold free.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/dd44aeb5b7770e712946dfb0dd3e381f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/2e5ad00f38ef56f3c2e53dbd3951b393.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/5deeac416e35f1429ef86f6617444158.jpg

Moving to the passenger side, I got every nut free except the last really long one. She decided to shear right off and I was in disbelief.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/1055ffc46e76166b85c9eae00e03646e.jpg

Multiple cycles of heat and candle wax later, and I was able to get the stud out with some channel locks. Hopefully I can get some new exhaust studs and nuts at the local parts store.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/e76bdee6b670965e5347c1d44e95a402.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/3e5fd2ea3afe4309eb7ab6f64163b950.jpg

I'm removing the manifolds because I didn't receive the downpipes to go with them. I'll also need to swap my alternator over from the 2.7T, as well as buy a starter and MAF. Also, the studs looked like this, so no bueno.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/e2a131e84ee82686e292ec722498a0a8.jpg

Moving on after that obstacle, I found the rear main seal to be leaking. More specifically, the bottom of the cover as opposed to the seal itself. I went to the dealer and ordered the flange gasket to replace the destroyed one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/ea5d1c28d40049a572bea9461a3ac5ad.jpg

Also noticed these dowel pins are bent. Will this cause any issues?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/8d842be39924b452e582e2dae624f510.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/5983bd37e24e4a28b80831f52c672c98.jpg


Finished off the day with the motor almost ready to pull. Hopefully it goes smoothly.

Spent most of my time fighting seized bolts in the driveline (axle bolts/driveshaft). Exhaust was dropped and out of the way. Rear diff is less than 10 bolts away from coming right out and being swapped. I feel like I need to change all the fluids before sending them back in there.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/752f221ee9b9eb58a597241006b59066.jpg

Also, found what looks to be some sort of bag in the frame rail. With the amount of things I've been finding in this wagon, I wouldn't be surprised if it's something illegal lol. Does anyone have an idea? I can't reach it with my hand
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/c86910e9e89a489cb436ee91ab3b8a48.jpg


And the motor is finally out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/074b312e548016d4ee9fc757fa553003.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/361c0163098e073905e0a3daf532a348.jpg

Tomorrow I will be splitting the engine/trans and mocking up the 4.2 and checking fitment of those longtubes.

I could not for the life of me get the motor/trans to lift over my axles, so I ended up taking them out. More detailed pictures tomorrow


I was trying to install the motor for mock up with the headers, but the headers are far too long for a narrow body C5. The contact where the frame rails meet the floor. Looking at how they're setup with the trans, it just barely makes it over the mount.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180611/5ed864edcdf3f6b97e977fcd701175c4.jpg

I'll have to have it shortened approx 8inches and then rebuilt from there. However, I don't have the resources to bring a motor to them to mock up.

I also clearances the oil filter housing with the tubes because it interfered.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180611/9880f8da22db2a768f697d50c56654bf.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180611/68a33abb0fa5ba3c6594e1bde48bf892.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[chris86vw]

bag in the frame rail is normal/stock.. weird I know, but they come like that not sure why.

[b7_Andy]

When my buddy and I first pulled the motor in his Allroad and looked through the frame rails I thought his car was owned by a cocaine smuggler [emoji23]

[Bordom]

Today I got some more work done. Went and picked up a starter and 1.8T radiator.

Immediately took the starter and sent it off to get rebuilt locally.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180614/fe7267310bf23fbcdc44d94efb76599e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180614/dd1b364972fa363a77d344d13fc8e36c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180614/76ba1f44e9694d734bfe84ed89cefd72.jpg

I haven't looked over the harness yet, but I think I'll be missing some grounds. I'll have to transfer over the ground strap from the 2.7T for the positive battery terminal.

The radiator is totally mint as well. No bent fins anywhere, other than being a bit dusty.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180614/8bd89038816047442a9aeacbe1ee8292.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180614/92f735dc28e9f713cdba28e5d8f0bbb9.jpg

Also ran to the parts store and got new bolts for the header to downpipe. I was able to reuse the retainers after knocking out the disgusting old bolts. Copper anti-sieze will be going on those.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180614/9b7bd68b1d1ef2a4a01b5f432eee5c6b.jpg

The worst part of these v8 brackets is the 7/8" gap between the chassis rails and bracket. I went out and got 28 12mm spacers, and 4 thinner ones to use and take up space, however I only ended up using 4 12mm spacers on the outside (towards fenders), and 5 12mm spacers on the inside (towards the bay).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180614/92b83cb062238f1b8c91682a78e98bd0.jpg

Got the rear diff out and the flanges swapped. That should be reinstalled relatively quickly, then on to making sure the motor fits in the bay before installing the clutch and flywheel.

I did the rear main seal before stopping for the night. Scraped off the old gasket, brake clean and sanded down the sealing surface. Installed the new paper gasket and applied RTV to the bottom of the flange. I'll snug up the bottom 2 bolts tomorrow.

To do list thus far:
-reinstall rear diff
-swap trans linkages
-swap trans axle cups
-tighten bottom RMS bolts
-install headers
-mock up motor in the bay
-change gear oil?
-install flywheel
-install clutch
-mate motor/trans
-install V8 power steering lines to rack
-general reassembly


Delete A.C.? Mine is empty and didn't work before. I guess having it later would be nice, but depends how much of a pain it's going to be to delete.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[Bordom]

Yesterday I was able to get the clutch and flywheel installed. Took a while to find the right orientation of the flywheel before I was able to get the bolts in.

I stupidly ordered the 2.7T flywheel bolts and they were about double the required length. I had to go and order B7 RS4 flywheel bolts from the dealer. *TTV 4646 flywheel requires RS4 flywheel bolts
N90665001*
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/932e4a1f51a3d9ba3ef2f8de75ea55a5.jpg

From there I tried to install the clutch. The dowels provided on the flywheel were much too large to install. I ended up drilling out the dowel holes to fit it. Notice the holes beside are much smaller
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/7590bd0d469dc904aac223fbdf8eb7ae.jpg

Just barely fits in
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/6e3f8b84065f6c3b30d03d7ebd3fcf82.jpg

B7 RS4 clutch installed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/f40be54e7120697ccec685ecc25ec409.jpg

Next was tackling the sheared off slave bolt. Ended up buying cobalt bits and spending 30mins drilling it out and trying to save the threads.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/af8c081f876d645168308e19c198678b.jpg

I am actually able to thread the slave bolt in. So that's a great relief from some of the horror stories I've heard with drilling out the bolt.

I tried to put the starter in at the end of the day and it wouldn't fit. I ended up pulling the one off my 2.7T and realised it was the same. I ended up figuring out that the wrecked gave me the wrong one. I took it back and they gave me the correct one. I went home and made sure it fit in the block first before having it rebuilt lol
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/9f4659c50b804df165cf9e6e2d443c76.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180616/2b9bed5ac686dd34dcfa988daa60eb89.jpg

I figured out the V8 downpipes don't fit. They need to be chopped as the portion that moves down comes into contact with the transmission bracket. They also spread way out so I'll have to chop them right after the precat and have a straight section of pipe welded to it to dump right to the floor. I won't be able to attach my catback because it has V-band flanges

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[Bordom]

An amendment to the V8 downpipes they do in fact fit. Idk what I was doing yesterday but it certainly wasn't putting it in right lol.

I don't need to notch the subframe because there's all this room here. Another plus for Allroad owners

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/db1c2f28f001d8942c09fe14706716da.jpg

It comes really close to the heat shield so a little bending should set that right but I'm not concerned right now.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/5e6ec4ceab753eb10fefe550acd961d2.jpg

Sitting in the bay. I was so happy to see it sitting there.

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[8520]

Lots of good progress. Love it.

Please don’t delete your a/c. Don’t be that guy [:/]

[Bordom]

Lots of good progress. Love it.

Please don’t delete your a/c. Don’t be that guy [:/]Figured I may as well keep it to have something to zip tie the fan to lol

Gonna go on Tuesday to pick up misc cooling hoses, some electrical cables and vacuum reservoirs from a kid I got the downpipes from. Really nice guy, and I may end up picking his parts car to death before he scraps it lol

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[AudiA4_20T]

This is awesome.

[8520]

Been rereading this.

You should only have to swap out one power steering line, removing the one the goes to the back side of the engine on the 2.7 and replacing it will one that runs along the frame rail if memory serves.

Alre Allroad engine mounts taller than other c5 mounts due to subframe spacers? I wouldn’t think you’d have to space the engine in any way.

[Bordom]

Been rereading this.

You should only have to swap out one power steering line, removing the one the goes to the back side of the engine on the 2.7 and replacing it will one that runs along the frame rail if memory serves.

Alre Allroad engine mounts taller than other c5 mounts due to subframe spacers? I wouldn’t think you’d have to space the engine in any way.

The Allroad 2.7T brackets are indeed taller because of the subframe spacers. I bolted in the V8 mounts and they were too short by 25mm, exactly the length of the spacers. That's why I used washers to take up the slack space for the lower mount brackets.

In terms of the power steering line, I removed the one from the V8 that goes to the rack, and the low pressure line from reservoir to pump. I was going to remove the same high pressure line in my Allroad, but there was so much crusted mud there I didn't want to risk contamination of the rack. I instead bent the original line going to the back of the firewall to the side along the frame rail. It's currently slotted next to the reservoir and connected to the V8 line by way of a union.

The line is insanely long and its going to be interesting stuffing the headlight back in lol

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[Bordom]

I updated the first post with required parts and whatnot. Obviously not complete but I'll update it as I go along

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[AudiA4_20T]

BTW, just noticed that you were mapping out the entire engine harness. This is completely unnecessary and will only confuse you.

I wrote THIS (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/543111-DIY-How-to-wire-any-other-ME-7x-Engine-into-your-B6-chassis-(2-7T-VR6-4-2)) thread awhile ago. The references to the B6 are generally the same for the C5/B5 since they all share ME7.x


Now you're saying, "OK so how do I wire everything? What about the cluster? What about it talking to all my electronics? That's a mess right?"

Nope. The engine connects to the whole car with 4 Body Plugs on the B6. The ECU is an "Engine Manager" per say. It doesn't like being Micro-managed and can handle everything on it's own. All it needs is Power and Throttle input. It will make sure to report it's issues to the cluster to let you know if something isn't working right.

Here's a picture to better understand this:

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/AudiA4_18T/ecu_zps545bd3bc.jpg

Ok so you now realize "hey, this wiring thing isn't so bad. I don't have to worry about N75s or 02 sensors or Coilpack types or anything!"

[Bordom]

BTW, just noticed that you were mapping out the entire engine harness. This is completely unnecessary and will only confuse you.

I wrote THIS (https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/543111-DIY-How-to-wire-any-other-ME-7x-Engine-into-your-B6-chassis-(2-7T-VR6-4-2)) thread awhile ago. The references to the B6 are generally the same for the C5/B5 since they all share ME7.xI did it for my own understanding as it also tells you what's going on with the body plugs from the ECU side. There's some differences but I won't know for sure until I plug it in and attempt to turn over the motor and have it idle.

I'm more concerned with how I'm going to figure out the vacuum system as this pic here shows I'm potentially missing things. Big things are the vacuum reservoirs, EVAP system and leak detection pump.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180620/1d1b9e7b97b707f7772e1d68c644b0bf.jpg

Can Vac reservoirs be deleted?

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[Bordom]

Picked up Redline MT-85 to fill the trans. Dumped the old fluid and filled with this. 5 bottles of performance GL-4.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/b531c04f9a6878de830df7466e4d86ae.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/717dc72a0752287dfce7bf75e4df07e6.jpg

Almost stripped the fill plug on the new trans, then changed the flanges over for the Allroad axles.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/d2ac861b47eac0dd408691dc91a7b446.jpg

Next I punched the pre-cats and collected everything in a pitcher. Will be turning these in along with the main cats at a later date.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/120ea2d211adb36e6e04b2d1f76fa2bd.jpg

I moved on to installing the V8 positive battery cable, hooking up to the starter/alternator. I was missing one connection, so I ended up adding it with some spare stuff in the garage.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/a6ae3652a89939f2cd3d076076140419.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/66f2b8248ff12c6513085000536aa5e7.jpg

With this, I've read of RS6 owners deleting the Aux rad by looping it out, so I'll be attempting the same thing here since I went be running an Aux rad.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/aa8177ff281f6d67a1b8107ce7dfab42.jpg

Last time I mounted the motor, I didn't mount the passenger side downpipe. Turns out it hangs much lower than the driver side does. Upon installation, the downpipe hits where the trans mount is on the subframe preventing me from installing the motor.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/d65b9627d7170484bbf0f23d34f30aa4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180624/0ff493f1c7a93c5c0bb2bdcd970c112f.jpg

It needs to be bent about 30° to the right and brought upwards 3" to be about the same with the other side. I'm going to try installing this with the downpipe bolts loose and see if I can pry it up over the trans mount. If not, I'll have to find a place to make a single bend in the pipe to allow me to install.

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[moclakens]

I’ll grab a picture tomorrow, but I bought a silicone u-bend heater hose of amazon for $10 and just “looped” the system. I’ve done 1000 miles now and the oil temps seem normal.

[8520]

Look up engine masters - dented headers

[Bordom]

I’ll grab a picture tomorrow, but I bought a silicone u-bend heater hose of amazon for $10 and just “looped” the system. I’ve done 1000 miles now and the oil temps seem normal.Sounds good. I'm glad I don't have to do anything crazy.
Look up engine masters - dented headersI've seen the episode. I've also put a huge dent into the pre-cat when I was tightening it down in the vice to try and smash the pipe. It's much harder than it seems lol

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[moclakens]

This is what I did for the aux radiator bypass, and the part I used. I had to cut allot out of it, but was able to use one of the pieces I cut for the hoses behind the passenger head that was starting to swell.

https://www.amazon.com/HPS-HTSEC180-062-BLK-Silicone-Temperature-Reinforced/dp/B01M0AAPUG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1530132711&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=hp+htsec180-062-blk

https://i.imgur.com/dJ2bpBl.jpg

[Bordom]

I've not done very much as I'm being stopped by the passenger downpipe. No one wants to bend it for me as they fear it'll crack, or they want me to bring it to them on the car and have a custom on built.

I don't understand how this downpipe is not going in as every other thread I've seen has used the stock V8 downpipes.

The issue I'm having is the downpipe is contacting the passenger tranny mount on the subframe, not allowing the motor to swing into the other motor mount. I should probably find an engine balance tool to use to help me out.

Any ideas?

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[Nollywood]

I have not attempted to run the V8 downpipes in any of my swaps.

I have used the stock V6 downpipes, or in the case of my last swap, I used Miltek B6 S4 manual downpipes, with B6 S4 manifolds in place of the 077 V8 items. Different flange fittings, as well as a slight angle difference.

This could be your problem, Bordom.

[Bordom]

I have not attempted to run the V8 downpipes in any of my swaps.

I have used the stock V6 downpipes, or in the case of my last swap, I used Miltek B6 S4 manual downpipes, with B6 S4 manifolds in place of the 077 V8 items. Different flange fittings, as well as a slight angle difference.

This could be your problem, Bordom.I'll be picking up V6 downpipes come Thursday. I guess I'll take them and have the left side rebuilt to fit properly as I don't want to downgrade to 2.25" pipes.

However, I'm in a time pinch so I may just use the V6 downpipes and do 2.5" downpipes later

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[Nollywood]

What size are the stock Allroad V8 downpipes?

[Bordom]

What size are the stock Allroad V8 downpipes?I have no idea. I would assume they'd be 2 5", but also the same as the B6/7 S4 regarding the flange.

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[Nollywood]

I only ask, as I believe they are the same diameter as those of the V6. The Milltek items are 2.5”, and advertised as larger than the stock items.

[b7_Andy]

I believe the stock Allroad V8 downpipes are the same diameter as the V6 ones, 55 mm or 2 1/8”. How badly is it contacting that passenger side trans mount? When I put 3” XS-downpipes on my buddy’s 2.7 Allroad they were contacting the passenger trans mount just barely so I just cut out a little section of the mount bracket to increase clearance.

[Bordom]

I only ask, as I believe they are the same diameter as those of the V6. The Milltek items are 2.5”, and advertised as larger than the stock items.Looks like I'll have something custom made.
I believe the stock Allroad V8 downpipes are the same diameter as the V6 ones, 55 mm or 2 1/8”. How badly is it contacting that passenger side trans mount? When I put 3” XS-downpipes on my buddy’s 2.7 Allroad they were contacting the passenger trans mount just barely so I just cut out a little section of the mount bracket to increase clearance.The passenger downpipe hangs stupid low compared to the driver side. Approx 2-3" lower in fact. It contacts the trans mount mounting point before going in. It's awful.

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[b7_Andy]

Looks like I'll have something custom made.The passenger downpipe hangs stupid low compared to the driver side. Approx 2-3" lower in fact. It contacts the trans mount mounting point before going in. It's awful.

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Wow that’s a lot, can you cut out a couple inches of the downhill section of the downpipe and re-weld it?

[Mad Cow]

Sounds like what happened when I tried to install late downpipes on early manifolds, the early/s6 manifolds have the outlet at a different angle. Ended up getting a pair of s6 downpipes and all was good.

Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

[Bordom]

Wow that’s a lot, can you cut out a couple inches of the downhill section of the downpipe and re-weld it?If I had a welder lol
Sounds like what happened when I tried to install late downpipes on early manifolds, the early/s6 manifolds have the outlet at a different angle. Ended up getting a pair of s6 downpipes and all was good.

Sent from my MI 5 using TapatalkThese downpipes are off an 01 A6, but I guess that counts as the facelift since it's not 00/ART. If only the motor came with its factory downpipes, I wouldn't be in this mess.

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[Bordom]

I only ask, as I believe they are the same diameter as those of the V6. The Milltek items are 2.5”, and advertised as larger than the stock items.Can auto V6 downpipes be used?

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[Nollywood]

Can auto V6 downpipes be used?

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They will certainly clear the manual 01A/E, as they are designed to clear the much wider ZF5-HP-19/24, but they will hang lower.

The support tabs also won’t line up with the brackets on a manual gearbox, and they’ll be pretty close to the frame rails / transmission tunnel, which is wider in an automatic car.

[Bordom]

Update:

The guy I was supposed to grab the V6 downpipes from ghosted me. Called and texted but no replies. Likewise with anyone else around here. I ended up chopping the left downpipe in half to clear it, so it currently exits into the subframe. I chopped it more after this mock up
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180710/ab30855a74a1ff8c1061560c3ef1aee7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180710/f1c94e86209e08f18eb05eafc972269c.jpg

Once that was installed, I got to putting in the 1.8T power steering line. The line ended up being a much different shape and difficult to get in. I had to bend the end which goes into the rack but the banjo doesn't thread.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180710/ab586d9ce958445fe674bff3b672db81.jpg

The line is also so much longer. How did everyone route this?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180710/c2cd907224864cb8c8acb924741c7c05.jpg

My motor sits back 11mm fyi. I will also be plugging everything in to see if it'll fire on Friday. Hopefully it will, so then I can use that as some motivation to finish

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[Nollywood]

I used the 1.8T power steering line on my first 3 swaps. They fit fine, though not comparable to your set-up, being RHD.

My last swap used a genuine C5 S6 line.

[Bordom]

I used the 1.8T power steering line on my first 3 swaps. They fit fine, though not comparable to your set-up, being RHD.

My last swap used a genuine C5 S6 line.I'm short on A6 that are being parted here which are 4.2. Guess I'll have to struggle more and somehow get the banjo to thread

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[8520]

I think the least favorite part of my entire 2.7 swap in to my s6 was swapping that damn power steering line. I cursed a lot.

[Nollywood]

You’ll have to cut and extend the hard end of the line (banjo end).

As it stands, if you get the bolt to thread into the rack, it’ll be under too much tension,mane could fracture the rack under engine movement.

[Bordom]

Need some help. I'm trying to plug in my V8 swap into my Allroad to see if it'll start up without any changes to the wiring.

I acquired an A6 6spd kit to swap out my Allroad 4.375 final drive for the 4.11. Like a dummy I put both ECU into the same box and I'm having trouble.

The one ECU has a scratched out Allroad part number and written on it is another one. On the back is written BEL Allroad.

I assumed the one that just has 01E written on it was correct, but the keying is different and won't allow the larger part to plug in. The ECU labeled BEL plugs in without issue.

One ECU came with the manual swap, and one came with the motor.

Can anyone tell me which is correct based on part numbers? I really hope it's not the ECU I got with the motor

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180714/ff7110d7837285b662789edd26bf1663.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180714/b52cc8ba90e8201b811b7561478dffd5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180714/3e28537e60249557dcdfba2a45c62332.jpg

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[Mad Cow]

4D0907559E is the part number for a late (ME7.1.1) euro s6, so that should be the one you need. I'm guessing it was flashed with that bin so whoever did it crossed out the original part number. If your harness doesn't plug into it then you may have an ME7.1 harness, which is slightly different. You can make it work, there should be a little tab inside the connector you can break off to make it fit but you still need to modify the harness. The biggest difference is ME7.1.1 has the vvt adjusters wired separately, while ME7.1 has them wired together. There's more but that's all I remember off the top of my head.

Edit: Forget all that, why is that part number written on a BEL ECU? That makes no sense.

[Bordom]

Lol no clue, but you pushed me to just put it together and start it up.

https://youtu.be/jEqJytpSuQ0

No MAF, open downpipes, and a ton of open vacuum lines. Yeah it sounds off but at least there's no codes that are terrible.

I scanned the ECU and only got these codes. Keep in mind the serpentine belt was off, so I attribute low voltage to that.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/ad9cfd8be39e36726849c8b1ad774844.jpg

Scanned ABS
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/ebfc0d1953595be9b006762576f2a115.jpg

Air Suspension
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/fd42ff88027a4782d8fb052c5eb110a9.jpg

It seems that the air ride thinks the suspension is at level 1, when in actuality its locked in level 4. I'm hoping this is simply a software issue I can get a tuner to do to reactivate the suspension. Hopefully it's as simple as copying some code from the Allroad ECU to get it to function, otherwise I'll have to convert to aftermarket management earlier than I wanted to.

Also, in search of 4.2 Allroad sway bar brackets. I would rather pay one of you than buy from a wrecker who wants over $200 for them.

The original 4.2 brackets I got aren't good enough as they cock eyed the motor on install
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/6f3c3c499b7b0d12453a79f09c8e647f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/673f9932bcb76a9bf51dd97d75804ad0.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[Bordom]

Finally got the power steering bolt at the rack threaded in. Damn what a PITA. 5 total hrs over 2 weekends.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180721/56ad4d15349698360a9511492619600e.jpg

The way this power steering line is positioned doesn't give me great confidence. I don't know how other people using the 1.8T line have done it, but I don't particularly like the way this is run. I'll have to find A6/S6 4.2 specific high pressure lines later on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180721/e849a78314758e0b25c706f0f2d62661.jpg

Tackled the crank pulley next and was expecting this to be much more difficult. Luckily, they came out without much fight.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180721/a5cee764f76b81973fb799c6482348c5.jpg

Finally popped the timing covers and other stuff off the front of the motor. Everything except the two idler rollers looks to be brand new. Some discoloration on the tensioner and adjacent idler, but I almost done want to touch it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180721/e55cf96f0fca6d566ddc08ee88b1a0b6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180721/e4d39a549a79684ca4f66503498f2acc.jpg

I forgot to get pics of the rollers but I'll get them by tomorrow. Suggestions?

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[Bordom]

Pictures of timing components. Seems like a couple years and only a few thousand km
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180722/1474842196fad2e6b6b21fca58105060.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180722/51b1be951a1d72aba6718aa316fafa52.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180722/3a07795885dd847bbe12b4ebe224506c.jpg

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[8520]

I don’t risk it on motors I don’t know the history of. I’d do timing belt/water pump service.

[Nollywood]

Are you assuming that timing belt kit was replaced a couple of years / few thousand miles ago, because that’s what you feel, or you simply don’t want to spend a load of the green stuff?

Considering the amount of work that went into this swap, I personally wouldn’t take the chance. All that unknown history? Not me.

[Mad Cow]

I wouldn't risk it. I can see the angle of the lever on the tensioner is off, the faces of the lever pad and tensioner piston should be pretty much parallel at rest. You have to set the correct preload with the eccentric pulley before you pull the tensioner pin, whoever did your belt probably cranked it down fully before pulling the pin. Mine was like that too, the lever was almost resting on the tensioner body.

Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

[b7_Andy]

And those rollers look exactly like the one’s in my buddy’s engine when they seized up and snapped the belt destroying the whole motor

[audinutt]

And those rollers look exactly like the one’s in my buddy’s engine when they seized up and snapped the belt destroying the whole motorThose are cheap components and the Belt is over tightened as previously pointed out. Get INA rollers and do the job right

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk

[Bordom]

Thanks all. I've never done a belt before myself, but having watched jballou's videos it doesn't seem so hard.

I bought a timing belt kit for this already. It's a continental/contitech kit.

The hydraulic tensioner is indeed all the way compressed, and the tensioner itself is resting on top. I'll be continuing this next weekend and hopefully have the timing all done by the end of the weekend.

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[Bordom]

Only had one day and about 4hrs to work on the car, so here's the progress:

I loosened the camshaft sprockets and then was able to pop them with a piece of wood and a mallet. Got the belt off and removed everything. Got to approximately this point and then heard a loud click. The right cam moved and ended up in this position.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/84a79af38106db6090d733bc86632478.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/522ae83842960852c49dcb6eb81494f6.jpg

I was able to bring it back with the cam lock bar but it now appears reverts back to that position so I left it.

The motor was also caked in dirty so I took the time to clean it up a bit.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/8ff78bacb922307141803f0ec45d7a6c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/54a76a40bf14d9e1610eb8230083a661.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/872d7b28178bb0117a6e3e4d2f863394.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/fc0b736dc645656ad6630509713c0f8d.jpg

After I cleaned it I got to installing the water pump and thermostat. The final thing I got was the two rollers on top before I had to go. The originals were definitely factory.

Old
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/04e26e771da111fc6497cb8a95f38e33.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/189d1f3f4b3b1b527c4c35ee41e61ea9.jpg

New
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/7a82d597e02badcdc29156a07ee10fde.jpg

As it sits until next week
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/caff3b808ddc7d08bfda270b9f5dbee4.jpg

Any tips regarding the right sprocket?

BONUS
Action shot my lady got
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/5fcb3bd94e139cac998c14a38c9b033f.jpg

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[8520]

Where’s your cam lock bar? You need that to get the key back in the right spot.

[Bordom]

Where’s your cam lock bar? You need that to get the key back in the right spot.I had it on to bring it back, however everytime I took the bar off the sprocket would flip back to it's original position. It only turned right so I'll bring it back left and it should be ok

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[Mad Cow]

I had the same issue with the cam that won't stay still, the valve springs don't hold it in equilibrium when it's in the right position. Makes things a lot more difficult without a cam bar, but you'll be fine since you have one.

Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

[Bordom]

Got the timing done this weekend as well as a few other things.

I was having a hard time getting the timing belt on when I realised the idler pulley beside the tensioner was in the wrong position. I had installed it hanging downwards which made putting the belt on a giant pain.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/2f348127e9dcf577934c0b51303863f9.jpg

I loosed the bolt holding the idler and then installed the belt, and re-tightened it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/bc2b802dda3a63b2cd91762e6a8d746c.jpg

The tensioner also looks so much better than before. I realise the shop that did the timing prior had probably done what I had down when trying to install the belt.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/1e63d2482163a62bf7be13f421fceffa.jpg

I fired up the car and had it idle. Timing was fine as well as everything else. I turned it off and my grandfather noted the top of the timing belt was slack - it could be pushed down enough that the belt didn't touch the water pump. I checked the bottom and it seemed to be very taught. I spun the motor around twice by hand and the belt was again tight all around. Perhaps I should go back in and re-position the idler?

Pretty much my finished product here.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/3deee898437827cee31ce02bbe60f0f3.jpg

I installed my 4.2 Allroad sway bar brackets but I still had issues with the passenger side lining up at all. I ended up with a Frankenstein 4.2 Allroad sway bar bracket, and a regular A6 4.2 passenger side bracket with washers to take up the space. The car is now in the correct holes and the motor is straight, except for the slight tilt of the motor as pictured below.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/b837411b51750054f287b6baf95eedf2.jpg

I finally started moving on to sorting out the cooling system. Removed my factory rad and was going to put in the 1.8T rad. Unfortunately today is a holiday so nothing is open and I can't get zip ties to hold things in place.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/f168b7fc9d4090997485acec042c726d.jpg

Old rad
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/bced73984536ec2abb5e875a025db2e1.jpg

I took the 4.2 coolant hoses and carefully cut off the metal bands holding the quick connects on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/a2151b82b04ee26a8a0bee5825cd4d50.jpg

Since the 1.8T rad has smaller 1.25" hose terminals, they wouldn't have fit on the 1.5" quick connect hoses. If anything, I can always go back and put them on if I decide to use my factory rad.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/6915bb0a190aa9570727ef1b333c9389.jpg

I bought a 16" slim fan a while ago to put in my B5 S4 as an EFK. I figure I can wire this in to my factory wiring provisions and run the main 16" fan, the Aux fan beside it, and the front warm weather fan.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/ccab17e8a4fd0bada68f5ebe839ff076.jpg

Lastly I looped the coolant hose for the aux rad. No pretty, but it'll work until I can get something a little more fancy later on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/159dd772b7d445d374a74074cc8c610d.jpg



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[8520]

Did you pretension your belt with a 5mm Allen key and pop the cam gear sprockets?

[Bordom]

Did you pretension your belt with a 5mm Allen key and pop the cam gear sprockets?Yes, when I put the belt on I had the sprockets popped and I was tensioning the belt with an 8mm Allen. Its tight now, however after running the motor that first time the belt was super slack up top

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[8520]

8mm? Pretty sure spec is 5mm

[02 A6 2.7T]

8mm? Pretty sure spec is 5mm
The 4.2 uses a different belt procedure ... you'll also need a 2-pin wrench tool T40009 and 1/4" drive torque wrench to adjust the belt preload on the driver's side idler pulley :

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/bc2b802dda3a63b2cd91762e6a8d746c.jpg
https://www.toolsource.com/images/prod_images/110181.JPG

[Nollywood]

I use an angled pair of needle-nose pliers. Just like older EA827-series 4 cylinder motors.

[Bordom]

The 4.2 uses a different belt procedure ... you'll also need a 2-pin wrench tool T40009 and 1/4" drive torque wrench to adjust the belt preload on the driver's side idler pulley :

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/bc2b802dda3a63b2cd91762e6a8d746c.jpg
https://www.toolsource.com/images/prod_images/110181.JPG
I use an angled pair of needle-nose pliers. Just like older EA827-series 4 cylinder motors.Alright, guess I'll go back in there and adjust the idler some more. Thankfully it's only a few things to remove

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[Bordom]

I went back in and adjusted the belt. Its tighter than it was before.

Once I broke the sprockets loose I went to loosen the tensioner. I used my half inch breaker bar and an 8mm Allen socket only to end up with this.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/f2ea8a58deb842ab5f8cbd67e04e5961.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/bd37f45c8ff66aef2d2e58c7fe0ddb70.jpg

The tensioner doesn't budge at all. I moved on to loosening the idler and adjusted with a pair of needle nose pliers as Nolly suggested.

I think I'm gonna tighten it a little more just because the tensioner is almost all the way out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/1f8865f8030b3ede58d3add1a85b2c07.jpg

Before
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/32a8f38428d71cf55d4420904d84af47.jpg

After
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/5e57beb11c78be491661a51f25655533.jpg

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[Bordom]

Tightened just a little bit more. I think it should be good now.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180806/afb0ffe0f6180186b04c019fa7cdeb70.jpg

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[Mad Cow]

Yep that looks about right, I figure it doesn't have to be perfect since probably half the cars on the road with this motor have it installed wrong.

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[Bordom]

From my last update:

- I managed to attach the induction system
- tightened up the power steering lines
- attached AC lines
- swapped my brand new slave out for the old one because the new slave's bleed screw stripped something fierce when trying to bleed it
- installed power steering reservoir and hooked up the cooler
- installed the serpentine belt

While under the car doing the slave I noticed the exhaust manifold had a loose bolt (one going through the manifold). https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180807/b40e532e8cdc0c502b567c9235f62674.jpg

Went to tighten it and it sheared right off
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180807/ffa5323b16cceec01e15b1439f520438.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180807/2dd4d99aeaa90d4126730e9a76a4a939.jpg

I tried to move the manifold and I can see no deflection in the flange, so I'm going to attempt to tack it back together.

After that fiasco I went to go start it up and I got nothing. The car turned on, heard the fuel pump prime, multiple relays click, and when I turned the key I didn't even get a click.

Went and double checked all my connections, reconnected the oil pressure sensor connector, verified my grounds and tried again. Still nothing.

I ran out of time to diagnose, but I'm sure it has something to do with the neutral safety switch. One friend said to start at the starter trigger wire and work my way back.

I may have also crushed some wires somewhere in bay when swapping the sway bar brackets out. Really hoping I didn't.

Thoughts?

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[Mad Cow]

Damn, can't catch a break eh? I would start with the clutch switch first and move to the interlock relay. If those are all good check the starter connections, maybe you unplugged the trigger wire and forgot to plug it back in, I've done that way too often.

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[Bordom]

Damn, can't catch a break eh? I would start with the clutch switch first and move to the interlock relay. If those are all good check the starter connections, maybe you unplugged the trigger wire and forgot to plug it back in, I've done that way too often.

Sent from my MI 5 using TapatalkBetween all the setbacks, broken/stripped bolts/nuts, running around to tens of part outs to get what I need, and my grandparents selling, I'm very mentally stressed out. Just doing turbos on the 2.7T probably would have been enough for me, but noooo I wanted a V8 and blissful v8 soundtrack.

I'm going to check the starter wire when I get back, and if its plugged in I'll look elsewhere. Bypassing the clutch switch shouldn't be hard, but I've never done it before so idk.

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[8520]

There are 2 pins on a 4.2 starter that you can plug the trigger wire in to. If it’s the wrong one, the car won’t start.

Did you bypass the clutch interlock relay? I don’t remember if this car was originally a 6 speed car.

[Bordom]

There are 2 pins on a 4.2 starter that you can plug the trigger wire in to. If it’s the wrong one, the car won’t start.

Did you bypass the clutch interlock relay? I don’t remember if this car was originally a 6 speed car.The car was originally 6spd swapped.

I have changed nothing regarding the starter or wiring around there. It started fine the first two times. Once before the timing and once after the timing was done. However, I started the motor before I went in and tightened the belt weeks prior.

All I've done since last starting it is:
-tightened timing belt
-swapped slave + bled it
-swapped around sway bar brackets
-installed induction system
-bolted in shifter box
-tightened power steering lines
-attached AC lines
-fixed heater core hoses

I moved the motor out only a few inches when swapping the sway bar brackets and realigning the heater core hoses. One difference I had this time putting the motor in was it almost "popped" into place rather than fighting it in like all the other times.

Other than the above listed, I have done nothing else to the car between the last start to when I tried to start it yesterday.

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[8520]

Sounds like it’s time to verify you’re getting voltage at the starter and work backwards.

[Bordom]

Sounds like it’s time to verify you’re getting voltage at the starter and work backwards.Yup. I only have 1 day before I'm deployed to the field for 10 days to figure it out. I'm so close to driving it, that's the only thing I'm looking forward to

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[Bordom]

About 5hrs of diagnosing:

1. I tried jumping the clutch safety switch - nothing.

2. Tried jumping the starter interlock - nothing.

3. Swapped a known good relay with another in the fuse panel that was the same - nothing

4. Moved over and tried getting at the J219 relay as well - nothing.

5. Swapped both relays in the ECU box with the ones from the 2.7T which were marked the same - nothing.

6. Removed negative cable and went around to the starter and attempted to jump power with my battery charger to the trigger post - nothing.

7. Watched a youtube video on how to jump power to the starter and tried again. Negative on the lower bolt for the starter, and wire attached to trigger post with the positive on battery charger - confirmed solenoid good.

8. Removed test wire and put positive directly on the copper wire going to starter motor - motor does not actuate.

I fumbled around a while trying to figure out if I was getting power without a multimeter. I initially thought the starter motor was working as it was emitting a low buzzing sound, but I later realized it was just the battery charger making those noises.

By this time the place I got it rebuilt at was closed so I couldn't do a thing about it. Itll have to be done when I come back from this field exercise.

As for downpipes, SteelyS6 came through and got me a set of S6 downpipes to help me along. Thank you very much sir.

Doing them by myself and trying to get them mounted on the manifold is pretty difficult doing it on my own. The studs move around and so does the flange, which made it difficult to install. I got a single nut on and left it because I had to get back to base and administer to my troops.

Next time I'll be pulling the starter and running around like a chicken with my head cut off trying to get it rebuilt the same day.

If for some reason I take it back and it works, I'll have to replace the ignition switch which I don't really want to do.



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[8520]

Keep pushing!

If you need some motivation, read through my 2.7 s6 swap thread. So many setbacks!

[Nollywood]

Get a replacement starter motor.

V6 ones work.

[Bordom]

I got the starter working again with the help of my grandfather.

I took the starter motor out again and tested it outside the car. Solenoid worked and the starter motor actually worked as well. I was super confused at this point so I put it back in and put things back together.

I forgot the trigger wire, and the ground to the block, so ai out those back in and nothing.

My grandfather comes out and then says to take all my stuff apart and try again. Removed and re-tightened battery terminals, removed and reinstalled all starter connections and the ground.

After much complaining that none of this was gonna work and I needed to change my ignition switch, he simply said "get in and start it." I got in, not believing that I would hear this motor roar to life. I turned the key expecting the worst and this engine turned over and started up.

I shut it off and we tried to turn it over again and again. Each time the starter would actuate and I was surprised. I went over to my grandfather and thanked him for helping me. As much as I want to believe I know it all and I covered all my bases, it's still good to know there's more things to learn and stay humble.

Time to move on to getting the motor moved back in, trans mounts put in place, a d cooling system put together. Then it'll be ready for a first drive

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[eljay]

Schweet! Great to hear.

[Bordom]

Spoke too soon. Problem reappeared today and I changed nothing from last night. I'm now severely leaning towards the ignition switch as the problem, however when turning the key the appropriate lights do go out and the clutch switch turns the battery light on and off with the key turned.

Damn electrical issues.

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[Bordom]

I forgot to put up these photos I took with mocking up the core support.

My intention was to keep my stock rad support but I'm going to have to do some trimming to get things to fit and align properly. If I have to trim too much I'll find a 1.8T rad support from the yard and throw that on, or just go full custom with how I'm going to mount it.

Rad support hanging
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/62fa172b75ee0a7b0a3d2c6361ff3d58.jpg

Space left before the core support meets the frame rails. Approx. 1-2" gap
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/593bf9add3fb1f7a4312e805b9a36561.jpg

Places that already need to be trimmed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/ea3585269f5ead417468e0a9d025e19e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/644d9a2c75bd40baa12e3a435bba4524.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/c4a646763fdad8a6c0a5f6483aec6912.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/d3ebe5a379de9534bbaaecf981960ff7.jpg

I plan to move the rad out as far as possible so as to give myself enough room in front of the motor to stuff the 16" fan I have, as well as mount the auxiliary fan in its proper slot.

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[Nollywood]

Change the starter motor, and get to drive your car.

Don’t waste time replacing an ignition switch that’s fine. Your tests #6 and #8 have already confirmed the switch isn’t at fault.

[Bordom]

In a turn of events I purchased an ignition switch and spent the 20 mins replacing it. Went to start the car and still had the same problem.

Running out of options I spent the next 30 mins trying to figure out wtf was going on in the engine bay. Went back and also jumped relays and switches to no avail.

The problem revealed itself when I was reattaching the ground to the engine. I remembered that there was another end to that ground and followed it to the frame rail. Hoping I was about to find the issue I reached for the nut and it was loose. I immediately tightened it finger tight and went to go start the car.

What do you know? I'm a dummy. Tightened it down properly with a wrench so hopefully I'll never have this problem again with improper grounds.

With that out of the way, I moved on the attaching the driveshaft to the transmission. The joint is actually a little way out there from stock position because I have to move back to motor/trans a little more.

I drilled out the motor mount bracket on the driver side approx 10mm to allow it to slide back some more. Then using a pry bar, I moved the passenger side back enough where I could drop in the transmission mount bolt through the bracket into the bolt. One side is connected properly, but I ran out of time and there was someone coming to look at the house.

Before I packed up and left, I took a photo to illustrate how far back the motor is. By the end of this, it'll sit just behind the rolled edges of the frame rail.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180826/a1866f814218415bd242d459ce6ba662.jpg

The worst issue is going to be how to plumb in the rad. There's absolutely no room on the bottom to plumb it

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[8520]

What do b5 guys do for radiator plumbling. I have to imagine it’s pretty similar.

Also I wonder if you need different subframe mounts. When I did my 2.7 swap I went to put the engine in and the trans mounts lined up but the engine mounts were off By a bit. Don’t remember how much. Got some from a b5 in a junk yard and it bolted right up.

[Bordom]

What do b5 guys do for radiator plumbling. I have to imagine it’s pretty similar.

Also I wonder if you need different subframe mounts. When I did my 2.7 swap I went to put the engine in and the trans mounts lined up but the engine mounts were off By a bit. Don’t remember how much. Got some from a b5 in a junk yard and it bolted right up.The mounts all line up, but because I have a shorter 11.2mm flywheel everything has to get moved back. There's no engine mount brackets made by Audi that would accommodate this, so I had to modify all of them.

As for rad plumbing, they've all cut and welded the rad outlets so they're 45° instead of straight. I'll probably cut more of the rad support to be able to fit it properly.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[Bordom]

With a week of leave I'm going to bang out this project as much as possible. I want to be test driving it by the end of the week.

I continued to work on the core support today with the help of my mom, who took it upon herself to motivate me to finish lol.

I took off the metal support on the bottom to begin trimming it so it would fit snug with the oil pan. I ended up trimming more than the picture below shows. It's also quite weak now, so I'll see if my brothers girlfriend (who studies welding) will have a crack at closing it up and giving it some strength.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/d20db69a6ff9322246dfedd13c0a08b5.jpg

Core support fitted.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/7bfdb2997f68d7ae5fe34ef4e0034bf0.jpg

Still have to trim around the AC compressor.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/71159bfb7b1c3bef271a6b85cfc24b94.jpg

The serpentine belt was still contacting the plastic of the core support, so I went in and completely removed the old snub mount plastic. This gave it much more room.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/ab32b8ef429600e4133cd2f450e319ba.jpg

Moved on to drilling out more space for the driver side motor mount and then tapping the mount into place, I did the same for the passenger side and sat the motor down in position. Some prying allowed me to install the trans mounts, which will require spacers to not have the back of the trans drooping down.

I took another look and the motor is successfully back another 5-8mm or so from previous, or half the power steering pulley

Before
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/755614dd2ff1205931df298dae4f9f45.jpg

After
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/2767ad92d3912662c877e13879f6333c.jpg

Finally, I'm still undecided with these AC lines. They're so far down it's actually the lowest part of the vehicle now. I'm going to apply heat to the pipes and bend them towards the front of the car so as to not have them in the way of anything.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/c38548f55f114ba2009b2dfb7964bac1.jpg

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[audinutt]

I'm thinking you need to shorten your AC hoses, you need them as close to that engine block as you can get. there is way too much excess length on those lines...

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk

[Nollywood]

I'm thinking you need to shorten your AC hoses, you need them as close to that engine block as you can get. there is way too much excess length on those lines...

This are my thoughts too.

[Nollywood]

Take care when forcing the engine and transmission further back in the chassis. If it is reluctant to move back, and returns to it’s favoured forward position when you release it (with the mount bolts loose) then that’s it’s neutral position.

If it’s forced back and tightened, you run the risk of the driveshaft binding in the rear of the transmission. Make sure it’s got enough “plunge”, that is in and out movement when moved by hand. Another attribute of the engine being tight against its neutral position is vibration. The engine must have a certain degree of movement to absorb vibration and harshness.

[Bordom]

I'm thinking you need to shorten your AC hoses, you need them as close to that engine block as you can get. there is way too much excess length on those lines...

Sent from my SM-G935U using TapatalkI would not know how to shorten them, or make new ones. The only solution I have is heating the pipe and bending them forward so they're out of the way. If you can tell me how to fix them, I'll do it.
Take care when forcing the engine and transmission further back in the chassis. If it is reluctant to move back, and returns to it’s favoured forward position when you release it (with the mount bolts loose) then that’s it’s neutral position.

If it’s forced back and tightened, you run the risk of the driveshaft binding in the rear of the transmission. Make sure it’s got enough “plunge”, that is in and out movement when moved by hand. Another attribute of the engine being tight against its neutral position is vibration. The engine must have a certain degree of movement to absorb vibration and harshness.The one mount that gave me issue is the driver trans mount. That's where I used the pry bar to get it in.

As for the driveshaft CV, it is already extended quite far from its stock position to meet the tail shaft of the transmission. I needed to move the engine/trans back regardless so that I wouldn't run the risk of popping the CV and proceeding to grind everything smooth. It happened in my B5 S4, if you remember. I'd rather not have that happen again.

I'm happy where everything is as its sitting in all the stock locations, so it should be ok, as long as I can get washers to move the tail end of the trans back up

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[Bordom]

Got the radiator modified today. Cut the end off with a hack saw and then used a grinder to grind away some plastic on the outboard side so I could attach it to the new position for where I'll be running the coolant lines.

Cut off end
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180829/6606738df637689e98edec38a56d177f.jpg

Ground away portion of the rad.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180829/ca027c38b408bd1da62e3e47f471d8eb.jpg

I attached a portion of the cut core support plastic to the old open end, made some JB weld and put it in place and made sure it'd stick with a rubber band
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180829/9962660bd7e06cd156e81018f8e584ba.jpg

I stood the rad up and then attached the outlet to the ground out position. I set it aside so nobody would accidentally destroy it lol
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180829/195a6b329248082de220b561f575541d.jpg

I moved on to attaching and aligning the shifter as well as putting the interior back together. I had some issues with 4th gear until I realised the linkage cross rod wasn't properly connected.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180829/80386a73e94c9a1479b54fbd27e0dc7e.jpg

The list was 31, now it's almost there.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180829/e603a89ab0bda106f3b6bf458b12d786.jpg

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[SteelyS6]

I admire your determination, almost there!

[Bordom]

I admire your determination, almost there!Thanks Geoff! I want to at least test drive this car by the end of the week.

I really miss this car

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[Bordom]

Late update from yesterday's progress:

I ended up getting much accomplished today, including cleaning up the garage floor so I'm not rolling around in metal shavings and dirt lol.

I inserted the spacers for the transmission mounts, as well as installed the axles. I'm somehow missing 2 axle bolts for the inner flange, and all of my exhaust brackets bolts. I can't remember where I put them, so I'll take a nice long walk to the dealer and place an order for them.

In the meantime, I got to cleaning the bolts up before reinstalling. These were for the factory DTS that bolts into rear subframe brackets. Rusty trash.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180830/a781d3d72fcfbbe5ce429a33c03d99b4.jpg

Cleaner.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180830/6ba7630f0df5150a1ecd8d31f1b13153.jpg

Axle flange bolts. There were all varying degrees of disgusting.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180830/b3823e9e912e0274543d55774a214ce9.jpg

I went ahead and reinstalled the cross rod to the shift linkage and went about aligning the shifter. Gears 1/3/5/R are all in their regular spots, however 2/4/6 are slanted to the right. Shifting is strange but it goes into all gears, if a little finicky.

Next I worked the issue with finding appropriate hoses and plumbing in the cooling system. The top hose to the rad isn't bad. I used the original line but stretched it out to fit. The bottom one got a little more creative. I had bought a flexible coolant hose with a 90° end from Partsource. I plugged the straight end into the thermostat housing and ran the 90° end out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180830/61d64a08b41314ed5a096249b1138305.jpg

From there I cut open the 2.7T coolant temp sensor housing. Cutting off the fixed plastic quick connect end, then removing the plastic locking ring and freeing the rubber hose. This left me with a housing that was 1.5" O.D to the 1.5" I.D 90° coolant hose. I attached the hose to the housing and ran the curved 4.2 lower rad hose from the radiator to the smaller barbed 1.25" plastic barbed fitting of the rad. This now leaves me with a decent place to store the coolant temp sensor.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180830/d47cd83d6e05eceec505778039fcc0d7.jpg

Finally, I'm still concerned with the air suspension. I've tried researching the 01575 error code but I just get hits for newer generation vehicles. My air suspension does not display correct height (currently level 4 jack mode, but car thinks its level 1 jack mode). It will flash for approx. 10-20sec and then the level lights will turn off. Everything was working correctly before starting work on the car. One friend has said that there's code in the ECU that needs to be changed but he didn't elaborate.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180830/1b73be9b4f0990f68b8c0d8d6e46518a.jpg

If anyone knows, please let me know

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[Bordom]

Couldn't do much work today because of house showings. Mounted the main fan on the rad, just have to figure out how to wire it in. 10 gauge wire, a relay, and a 30 amp fuse? Maybe a manual switch for now, or tie it in with the Aux fan to run with HVAC?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180831/675b69e5ceafe0deac9d8037455a9292.jpg

Also added this piece of aluminum down the center to strengthen the center of the core support and also be able to add mounting brackets to it for both the Aux and main fans.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180831/6ffb017e4fe5430e24427b7f717b6989.jpg

Last things are the radiator mounts and it should be good for a test drive once I zip tie all the wiring out of the way.

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[Bordom]

I spent the day shopping around and looking for materials to install my fan. I was looking at the JHM instructions and shopping around Princess Auto and Partsource. I picked up a 40 amp relay, heavy duty fuse holder from Partsource.

I picked up male/female bullet connectors to match the fan, spade connectors and T-splice connectors. I was even able to find the entire JHM relay and wires for $10 lol. Wired in the fuse holder
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/362430da981364e51caa3fce772d31f9.jpg

Ran it under the engine loom wiring, and beside the hood latch.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/c5d343aed5a253f45c0f2df11ba6b76c.jpg

Relay and all other wiring is located here in this convenient space. Wires ran out the bottom.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/2f5e0c7ba7ae15c055608c13965be40f.jpg

Spliced into the AC line for the Aux fan.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/3e7ff821329c1dbf8a68c5b704f5f81f.jpg

Fan power wire run through a hole in the support.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/e202e21d00245b9be9090f4ea492759d.jpg

Fan grounded at the passenger frame rail with the starter wire.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/8d5962d1589133534f573fc2261ca983.jpg

Wire run through another hole in the passenger side.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/5594098f373b0a9022e15fd6fb15b948.jpg

With the top rad hose connected, this is how the radiator sits. Theres enough room to make some "L" or "U" brackets and bolt the rad down through the core support.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/334b394ad3a8c1f5f3425936d690c800.jpg

The lower left portion here has a 3" gap. My father suggested putting a rad hose here and JB welding it to the bottom. This would just be so that the rad has something to sit on when bolted down from up top. Using a metal piece would wear into the plastic and aluminum, which would make life terribly difficult later on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/2a96ca00d835e591502cbe6e398a6a83.jpg

The right of the rad will be much easier to do the coolant hose mod to, since this side still retains the rubber isolator.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/a1789fb473f0d98b27d0be293461d18a.jpg

Hopefully tilting the other side of the rad up will give me more room here on the outlet.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/73268785ff6a3b0dfb9c19ab183e639b.jpg

With the hood almost closed, we see that there's a lot of room to spare between the rad and the hood.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180901/2a72c607335a90ae99c630ffd659176e.jpg

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[Nollywood]

That bonded radiator outlet won’t hold up.

I’m speaking from experience buddy. [:)]

[Bordom]

That bonded radiator outlet won’t hold up.

I’m speaking from experience buddy. [:)]Assuming it won't be stressed it should be fine for the short term. I want to have one custom made so mounting it will be much easier, having increased cooling ability, as well as not having something that looks ghetto lol

Did the JB weld deteriorate on you, or was it broken off by some kind of impact?

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[audinutt]

It's the heat Cycles that's going to cause a failure

Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk

[Nollywood]

Mine simply cracked from normal use, twice.

[Bordom]

Well, if it's the heat cycles I'll try building up the area with JB weld to get it solid. Hopefully that'll be better than 2 drive cycles lol.

I'm in talks with a shop about 45mins from me that does custom work. They do everything from intercoolers to exhaust, manifolds, and radiators. They've been in business since 1948, so they must be doing things right.

Once we have a rough estimate come Tuesday, I'll hopefully have a 3 core radiator with mounts for the Aux and main fan, as well as more mounts for the front fan and AC condenser.

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[Bordom]

The last two days has been stressful. I had wanted to test drive the car 2 days ago, but time fell short and it was late at night.

I re-mounted the fans, wired them up and set everything in place. Fit the rad back into the core support with the brackets I made and left it at that.

Today I made room for the car to drive out of the garage so I could bleed the coolant outside. Even made a little video.
https://youtu.be/hjn5gYpYvbo

Bled the coolant but had an issue with no coolant flow through the rad, the heater core, or any of the fans turning on. I spent much time diagnosing the fans. Pulled the FCM fuses, tested the fans through their installed wiring, put power directly from the battery to the Aux fan, shorted the coolant plug wires, and concluded I somehow need a fan control module; the car has only sat 3 months.

I changed the wiring to my 16" fan so that it would at least run with the key turned. I tried following the JHM instructions but connecting the fan to a keyed post would just make it turn on when the key was off. Scouring around Google, I came upon this: instructions for the relay I'm using.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180905/cb958e059e9916a44f13a5850bc5c094.jpg

Using those, I swapped wiring around and wired to the 75x post, and grounded to the ABS bolt. The fan now works with the key! It is for the most part now driveable.

While bleeding the coolant, I noticed a loud hissing sound and found a port on the front of the I take was missing a line. I taped it up for now until I could find a suitable cap or vacuum line to. Coincidently, this smoothed out the idle, so it no longer sounds like a big block at idle lol.

I took the car for a short trip up and down the street and the car takes off with only half throttle input. The clutch and flywheel are super light, and shifting is a breeze. Vast improvements from the stock setups on my Allroad and old S4.

There's also a tube between the kombi valves I need to replace to prevent exhaust gasses from going where they please within the bay. Otherwise, the to do list is short. Hopefully fully buttoned up by the end of the week.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180905/742c6d6332e70320d6d47ef8b9784305.jpg

Anything I'm missing?

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[8520]

Yes. Smokey burnouts.

[Bordom]

I only got about 4hrs of work done today, but the car is mostly together save for a single wheel.

I put the car back up on stands to install the exhaust, but calling my preferred shop they didn't have an opening until 22 Sep. So, I'll roll around without a catback for the time being. Axle shields installed, and then I went to the bumper.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180906/e722dfd2ffe95795e26205b6ea190a13.jpg

Headlights were next after dinner.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180906/93301f5ce3b5aaa0f02e2e7ed65f02bf.jpg

Everything else went pretty smoothly
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180906/23013505cccc28b603637c015ea7407e.jpg

Put together and waiting for final drive into the sunset.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180906/fb2321b0b9bc74e80e77003fcc96e111.jpg

Besides that I've been trying to find out what this port is. Finally have a picture, but does anyone know where it goes?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180906/f65f55698f302254cfc7fbe797be68dd.jpg

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[Nollywood]

You’re pretty much there with the swap.

I would leave the plastic covers off though, they just make the engine look really ancient. They also make the engine run hotter, and this is what you don’t want.

[Bordom]

Updated the first page with required items, as well as some notes for those looking to swap.

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[Bordom]

PSA: When you have the engine out, take time to replace all the little switches and sensors that are easy to access. These few dollar switches/sensors will cause a world of headache having to do them in the car, or better yet, have to remove the engine.

Refresh it while you have it apart, you'll thank yourself in the long run.

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[8520]

PSA: When you have the engine out, take time to replace all the little switches and sensors that are easy to access. These few dollar switches/sensors will cause a world of headache having to do them in the car, or better yet, have to remove the engine.

Refresh it while you have it apart, you'll thank yourself in the long run.

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"While you're in there......"

[Bordom]

"While you're in there......"Yes, I regret it lol.

Looking on the positive side, I now get to gather experience performing these repairs in situ.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[Bordom]

I now get to experience the oil cooler tube in car. I didn't replace it and now I'm kicking myself and preparing for a 10hr job

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[Bordom]

1000km update:

I've so far driven the car approximately 1000km and it's been decently reliable for a backyard hooligan build.

The car is very smooth now, and I've been driving this as they come up. The main problems are the radiator hoses blowing off, and the one failure of the JB weld holding the rad. The first iteration held for 200km, and the second revision had over 800km.

I roughed up the area's with a file and 80 grit sand paper and then used this plastic weld first. Smells awful and waited 15 mins.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/52699d8f5448a2c2a1462d9b877dfc71.jpg

Built up the area around it and then used this high heat JB weld. I ended up using the entire tube to secure the end and make it rock hard.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/fa571aa91453976d85859d111e05a501.jpg

I'll put a picture of this up when the new rad comes in

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[Bordom]

In the meantime, I've taken a little video. I always thought the car sounded too quiet for my taste, but this actually rivals my S4 well.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BoYEK1gHuhi/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=4bnyk9r6g8du

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[eljay]

Wow! I need that soundtrack! Fantastic.

[Bordom]

2500km update:

Having done the oil cooler tube this past weekend, I noticed the JB-Weld mod (V2) was starting to lift from the outside. I hoped it would hold a while longer, but it left a puddle under the car when I got into work this morning. It ended up leaking from underneath the JB-Weld. It probably would have lasted the rest of the week, but I didn't want to take the chance of having it blow off in the middle of a 60min commute.

So, when I got home 90 mins ago, I tore the car apart and was going to do the same repair. The only difference was I didn't have the plastic weld epoxy I used before, so I substituted the quick setting JB-Weld with the same high temp putty. Here goes V3.

I filed up the edges again, cleaned with brake cleaner and then applied the quick setting epoxy. I attached the hose end and the cap as such.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181010/2217728e25ecb1c362e460a1f95cedd1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181010/7a2ee47d9cac6793fa32918860fa4ae7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181010/c82be440d8aa80f6f4ce31c04ae03a7e.jpg

It looks pretty ghetto, but I used all the epoxy to get it to stick as well as possible. After letting it harden over 30 mins, I applied the high temp putty and used approx 90% of the stick.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181010/5bfeb1de901c0d02bd6316a8306f7de0.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181010/736237894803d4162c8f58394952e1ef.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181010/c21eea6634fe40dcc937cda9698a0fd3.jpg

This is still temporary until my aluminum radiator gets sorted out. The shop I took it to had to order parts for barb fittings and they were stacked up with work. I ended up taking it to my brothers girlfriend who's studying to be a welder, and she works at a metal fab shop, so hopefully they can just move the outlet over and I'll work something out with the factory 2.7T 1.25" quick connect coolant lines for the bottom outlet. My upper 45° coupler on the inlet has been wonder full, so I'm not so inclined on changing that setup

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[Bordom]

10k km update:

I've successfully driven this swap 10k km. Did my first oil change at 7500k, which was a PITA to try and get tools in there to spin the filter off. Luckily, I wasn't a dumbass and muscle the filter on.

I've so far replaced my radiator with the aftermarket aluminum one modified to fit my application. Mounted 14" fans front and rear as well as a thermostat to control the heat. That setup works pretty well.

I've had to replace the alternator, and that was not fun. Getting it in/out in situ is a challenge. I took out the front bumper and slid the core support forward enough to get in there. Spent most of my time trying to get it back into place correctly.

Emissions in my province is getting scrapped, so I've been thinking about going aftermarket standalone to accomplish my future goals.

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[hoganalley]

Emissions in my province is getting scrapped, so I've been thinking about going aftermarket standalone to accomplish my future goals.

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Did I know this? I know Ford is an idiot but I don't recall hearing the end of Drive Clean.....

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[hoganalley]

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.thestar.com/amp/news/queenspark/2018/09/27/premier-doug-ford-ending-drive-clean-plan.html

Well f me.

I just stop listening when he is involved but I guess it's happening!

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Edit: I voted Conservative, but not for the leader

[Bordom]

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.thestar.com/amp/news/queenspark/2018/09/27/premier-doug-ford-ending-drive-clean-plan.html

Well f me.

I just stop listening when he is involved but I guess it's happening!

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Edit: I voted Conservative, but not for the leaderYou're welcome lol

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[kompressorrado]

Hi all!
I've been collecting bits to basically do this same swap for a couple years now and when my passenger turbo finally went in my 01 manual Allroad last month, I got serious and started digging into this swap. This thread wasn't around last time I was researching and I'm really happy to find someone who has gotten a 077 type 4.2 into a narrow body C5 and gotten it working!
Big thanks to Bordom, Nollywood, 8520, Swamper, Madcow, Audinutt and anyone else who helped make this thread so informative!

This project began when I got a D2 S8 motor in excellent shape for a good price. Little did I know how many C5 4.2/S6 bits I would need to make this work. I already have C5 S6 mount brackets/oil cooler and engine harness installed and am hoping that I have the rest of what I need on order. As I'm waiting on PS and cooling lines/hoses and reservoirs from a C5 4.2 part out to arrive in the mail, I re-read this thread and took notes. I do have a few questions that I'm hoping some of you experts can help me clarify-

Fitment
-I am using a B5 RS4 clutch set up with a SMFW which requires the oem trans spacer. This will make my fitment even tighter than your swap, but I'm hoping that it will allow better alignment with the Allroad 4.2 sway bar brackets I have on the way. Was your need to run a C5 4.2 sway bar bracket on the driver side due to the lack of a trans spacer on your car effectively changing the mounting point locations? Just trying to figure out what I'm in for when I slide this in place..

- I see you mentioned that the B5 1.8t core support is an option that allows for more space. What parts are interchangeable with C5?? I'll gladly go get a B5 1.8t support from a part out if it will buy me space and allow for less cutting. I have clutched fan removed and plan to go EFK and have the DTS installed so I can get rid of the snub mount.

-Which EFK did you use? I'll be looking for the lowest profile possible. You settled on one in front and one in back? I was going to keep stock front EF and had a single (or dual?) EFK puller.

Electrical
I have a C5 S6 starter harness. Am I correct in thinking that the allroad starter harness will need to come out and be replaced by this?


Misc
- What did you end up doing with the vacuum lines? Did you put in vacuum reservoirs? If needed, I can probably get them from the part out I got other bits from..

Cooling
-Previously, I only had B5 4.2 build threads to go off of, and they suggested an aluminum MK4 rad upside down with upper pipe at 45 and lower at 90 degrees. Is this effectively what you did with your custom setup? I know you did 90 on the bottom, was 45 degrees required on top?
I was going to purchase an ebay aluminum MK4 rad and have it modded, but before that, I'm curious what you did with your custom rad set up, how much it cost and whether the shop would build another one?

-Your EFK was wired to AC switch originally, I'm curious what your final set up ended up being.


I appreciate answers to any of these questions. I'm at the point where the number of issues to solve/parts still needed seems overwhelming but I'm trying to work through it..

And seriously, thanks again for an amazing, inspiring home build! This thread has given me the motivation to make the AR I've been talking about having for several years now and knowing that someone else has done it gives me the confidence to know it's not impossible!!

[Bordom]

Fitment
-I am using a B5 RS4 clutch set up with a SMFW which requires the oem trans spacer. This will make my fitment even tighter than your swap, but I'm hoping that it will allow better alignment with the Allroad 4.2 sway bar brackets I have on the way. Was your need to run a C5 4.2 sway bar bracket on the driver side due to the lack of a trans spacer on your car effectively changing the mounting point locations? Just trying to figure out what I'm in for when I slide this in place..
I run the 4.2 Allroad front sway bracket on the driver side and the C5 4.2 passenger bracket. It's just the way I could get it to work. For the hole spacing on the mounts, I actually drilled them 10mm longer to account for the lack of spacer. The transmission is still bolted to the factory locations, it's just the sway bar brackets have had the holes elongated to accommodate moving the motor back. I do have the other 4.2 Allroad sway bar bracket laying around in the car but I have not yet drilled it or test fitted it to confirm fitment.

- I see you mentioned that the B5 1.8t core support is an option that allows for more space. What parts are interchangeable with C5?? I'll gladly go get a B5 1.8t support from a part out if it will buy me space and allow for less cutting. I have clutched fan removed and plan to go EFK and have the DTS installed so I can get rid of the snub mount.
I didn't want to mess around with the 1.8T core support for a potential fit. It would allow for a more OEM look, however I wanted something guaranteed to fit with little modifications. That's why I opted to cut my core support. If a 1.8T core support fits, then I'll add it in to this thread.

-Which EFK did you use? I'll be looking for the lowest profile possible. You settled on one in front and one in back? I was going to keep stock front EF and had a single (or dual?) EFK puller.
I bought an amazon EFK kit that also included an adjustable temperature guage. The final setup is power running to a relay, then the adjustable thermostat is wired into that for the dual fans to kick on. The whole setup actually draws less amps than the factory setup does I'm thinking of going to either 1 giant 16" fan, or dual front/rear 16" fans just so they pull more air. The car gets kinda hot in summer stop and go traffic and the oil temps will be around 120°C, which is not good lol

Electrical
I have a C5 S6 starter harness. Am I correct in thinking that the allroad starter harness will need to come out and be replaced by this?
Yes, Allroad harness comes out. C5 4.2 harness goes in. Should run along the same factory location

Cooling
-Previously, I only had B5 4.2 build threads to go off of, and they suggested an aluminum MK4 rad upside down with upper pipe at 45 and lower at 90 degrees. Is this effectively what you did with your custom setup? I know you did 90 on the bottom, was 45 degrees required on top?
I was going to purchase an ebay aluminum MK4 rad and have it modded, but before that, I'm curious what you did with your custom rad set up, how much it cost and whether the shop would build another one?
I bought an expensive CSF 2.0T B7 rad that's 2" thick and dual pass. $650 for the rad and $100 to move the bottom coolant port 90°. Its also flipped upside down. I have yet to make permanent brackets for it because it's just not on my list as of now.

-Your EFK was wired to AC switch originally, I'm curious what your final set up ended up being.
Explained above. It's only an aftermarket adjustable thermostat wired to dual fans. My AC switch didnt end up working, nor did my FCM so I gave up and went custom.

I appreciate answers to any of these questions. I'm at the point where the number of issues to solve/parts still needed seems overwhelming but I'm trying to work through it..

And seriously, thanks again for an amazing, inspiring home build! This thread has given me the motivation to make the AR I've been talking about having for several years now and knowing that someone else has done it gives me the confidence to know it's not impossible!!

Answers in yellow. Ask anytime and I'll be happy to help.

P.S. it's easier to out the motor in without the alternator pre-installed. Had some issues trying to drop it in because if it.

Sent from my SM-G9600 using Tapatalk

[Bordom]

For those curious, 20k km update:

I've had bad luck with the car thus far. Tried to rebuild my injectors (replace pintle caps, o-rings, micro filters) but one of the injectors ended up going south and staying wide open. It dumped all of the fuel straight into the cylinder and I thought I killed it.

Stock 200k-ish injectors. Micro filters are just crusty
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190716/1e973bc73d94beda197e54f867d8a222.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190716/9353c983f7ace464f7039a95a0a630f1.jpg

Small lake I ended up finding in one cylinder.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190716/0f89f07245e9e6a2aafae7e354657960.jpg

Replacement injectors to fix these up. Bought a second one just in case.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190716/637cd9dc10d4c835a54625aadd2518b1.jpg

Once I replaced injectors, my starter sounded like it was eating itself alive. I pulled it and had it rebuilt by the same shop under warranty. They replaced the clutch pack under the starter gear and it was noticeably smoother.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190716/e58f1ec2b8fd1011116f5c7ad1b09c42.jpg

Going back I decided to look at the starter teeth to ensure nothing was damaged. My heart sank with this one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190716/16fcdaee2389b094515a6ee4891c0a02.jpg

Chipped tooth must be causing my awful grinding noises, unless this now requires a shim. My father keeps telling me to shim it, but idk where ti start with that.

After all that was said and done, I tried to do the aero wiper conversion but instead ended up busting the windshield. Yay me
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190716/11eb92910070183778ed2d4fc9cf2249.jpg

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[kompressorrado]

Man, that is a serious run of bad luck.. I hope you're able to work through everything. Was the engine unharmed after the injector stuck? I had it happen to me on an old MK2 Jetta years ago. Big mess, but engine survived..

Thanks for such a quick response answering the questions..

One thing I forgot to ask- did you end up using the C5 4.2 vacuum reservoirs?


So, Ive been radiator shopping on ebay and will be pulling the trigger soon but am hoping for some feedback.
Requirements are all aluminum with inlet and outlet on same side. I know you've already covered it, but just wanted to put all options found in same place.
Here's the specs I've gathered from the options currently available:



Radiator----------------------------Core dimensions ----------------------Core volume------------------- Overall Dimensions-------------------------Inlet/Outlet Diameter

Stock 2.7t (for comparison)-----635mm x 418mm x 36mm------------9555 cu. cm--------------------748mm x 463mm x 125mm----------------1.25" (32mm)

B6/B7 2.0TFSI---------------------615mm x 420mm x 40mm-----------10,332 cu. cm------------------775mm x 435mm x 130mm-----------------1.25" (32mm)
$340

AUDI V8 ('88 - '94)--------------620mm x 388mm x 50mm------------12,028 cu. cm------------------740mm x 405mm x 110mm----------------1.375" (35mm)
$300

MK4 1.8T---------------------------650mm x 398mm x 50mm------------12,935 cu. cm------------------724mm x 416mm x 123mm----------------1.25" (32mm)
$120 (!!) Best price by a mile, but the end cap shape will make it much trickier to relocate and weld the inlet pipe 90 degrees

B5/C5 1.8t/1.9TDI----------------630mm x 400mm x 56mm------------14,112 cu. cm-----------------------------????????-----------------------------1.25" (32mm)
$285 from winner racing on ebay. If this fits (overall dimensions NOT available), it seems like my best choice. Most core volume, square end cap for easier inlet re-location and same diameter inlet/outlet as stock


Thoughts?

Thanks again for your help and I hope your repairs go smoothly and we can hear more sound clips of that sweet Allroad soon!

[Bordom]

Man, that is a serious run of bad luck.. I hope you're able to work through everything. Was the engine unharmed after the injector stuck? I had it happen to me on an old MK2 Jetta years ago. Big mess, but engine survived..

Thanks for such a quick response answering the questions..

One thing I forgot to ask- did you end up using the C5 4.2 vacuum reservoirs?


So, Ive been radiator shopping on ebay and will be pulling the trigger soon but am hoping for some feedback.
Requirements are all aluminum with inlet and outlet on same side. I know you've already covered it, but just wanted to put all options found in same place.
Here's the specs I've gathered from the options currently available:



Radiator----------------------------Core dimensions ----------------------Core volume------------------- Overall Dimensions-------------------------Inlet/Outlet Diameter

Stock 2.7t (for comparison)-----635mm x 418mm x 36mm------------9555 cu. cm--------------------748mm x 463mm x 125mm----------------1.25" (32mm)

B6/B7 2.0TFSI---------------------615mm x 420mm x 40mm-----------10,332 cu. cm------------------775mm x 435mm x 130mm-----------------1.25" (32mm)
$340

AUDI V8 ('88 - '94)--------------620mm x 388mm x 50mm------------12,028 cu. cm------------------740mm x 405mm x 110mm----------------1.375" (35mm)
$300

MK4 1.8T---------------------------650mm x 398mm x 50mm------------12,935 cu. cm------------------724mm x 416mm x 123mm----------------1.25" (32mm)
$120 (!!) Best price by a mile, but the end cap shape will make it much trickier to relocate and weld the inlet pipe 90 degrees

B5/C5 1.8t/1.9TDI----------------630mm x 400mm x 56mm------------14,112 cu. cm-----------------------------????????-----------------------------1.25" (32mm)
$285 from winner racing on ebay. If this fits (overall dimensions NOT available), it seems like my best choice. Most core volume, square end cap for easier inlet re-location and same diameter inlet/outlet as stock


Thoughts?

Thanks again for your help and I hope your repairs go smoothly and we can hear more sound clips of that sweet Allroad soon!

I ended up using 1 4.2 vac reservoir. It's the one that branches off to the passenger side.

I haven't looked at those rads, but if they're aluminum you should be fine.

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[chris86vw]

Man, that is a serious run of bad luck.. I hope you're able to work through everything. Was the engine unharmed after the injector stuck? I had it happen to me on an old MK2 Jetta years ago. Big mess, but engine survived..

Thanks for such a quick response answering the questions..

One thing I forgot to ask- did you end up using the C5 4.2 vacuum reservoirs?


So, Ive been radiator shopping on ebay and will be pulling the trigger soon but am hoping for some feedback.
Requirements are all aluminum with inlet and outlet on same side. I know you've already covered it, but just wanted to put all options found in same place.
Here's the specs I've gathered from the options currently available:



Radiator----------------------------Core dimensions ----------------------Core volume------------------- Overall Dimensions-------------------------Inlet/Outlet Diameter

Stock 2.7t (for comparison)-----635mm x 418mm x 36mm------------9555 cu. cm--------------------748mm x 463mm x 125mm----------------1.25" (32mm)

B6/B7 2.0TFSI---------------------615mm x 420mm x 40mm-----------10,332 cu. cm------------------775mm x 435mm x 130mm-----------------1.25" (32mm)
$340

AUDI V8 ('88 - '94)--------------620mm x 388mm x 50mm------------12,028 cu. cm------------------740mm x 405mm x 110mm----------------1.375" (35mm)
$300

MK4 1.8T---------------------------650mm x 398mm x 50mm------------12,935 cu. cm------------------724mm x 416mm x 123mm----------------1.25" (32mm)
$120 (!!) Best price by a mile, but the end cap shape will make it much trickier to relocate and weld the inlet pipe 90 degrees

B5/C5 1.8t/1.9TDI----------------630mm x 400mm x 56mm------------14,112 cu. cm-----------------------------????????-----------------------------1.25" (32mm)
$285 from winner racing on ebay. If this fits (overall dimensions NOT available), it seems like my best choice. Most core volume, square end cap for easier inlet re-location and same diameter inlet/outlet as stock


Thoughts?

Thanks again for your help and I hope your repairs go smoothly and we can hear more sound clips of that sweet Allroad soon!


Bolded is also the dimensions of the automatic 2.7T radiators possibly other autos since they have the cooler built into them. But those are basically dimensions out of my allroad stock so there is little reason it would not fit.


What you need to be careful with on the aluminum ones is that many are multi pass (I'm actually going to just assume they are all made in the same factory in china and relabeled so probably all multi pass). Which means if you just block off the inlet and or outlet and move it to the other side you might end up only using 2/3 of the radiator seeing coolant flow.

[Bordom]

Bolded is also the dimensions of the automatic 2.7T radiators possibly other autos since they have the cooler built into them. But those are basically dimensions out of my allroad stock so there is little reason it would not fit.


What you need to be careful with on the aluminum ones is that many are multi pass (I'm actually going to just assume they are all made in the same factory in china and relabeled so probably all multi pass). Which means if you just block off the inlet and or outlet and move it to the other side you might end up only using 2/3 of the radiator seeing coolant flow.Can you elaborate more on what you mean by "moving it to the other side"?

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[chris86vw]

Can you elaborate more on what you mean by "moving it to the other side"?


Just going off what he said:
"Requirements are all aluminum with inlet and outlet on same side."
"If this fits (overall dimensions NOT available), it seems like my best choice. Most core volume, square end cap for easier inlet re-location and same diameter inlet/outlet as stock"

It sounds like that is a normal upper driver/left side in lower passenger/right out that he plans to modify.

If you move the inlet on a 3 pass cross flow to the same side as the outlet you get a 2 pass and 2/3 the capacity. (well full capacity just 1/3 sits doing nothing and possibly trapping air.

[kompressorrado]

Alright, sorry to be thread jacking with problems, but seems the best place-

2001 allroad 6mt (factory, not manual swapped)
2003 S8 4.2 motor and ECU with immo defeated
2002 S6 engine harness and starter harness

Currently a no crank, no start.

I then followed threads for C5 manual swaps and installed wire into ecu pin 39 and ran to front clutch switch, then white wire tapped to brake switch, then took brwn/wht wire from starter relay and ran it to clutch switch and ground other side.
I followed the instructions in this post for wiring it to start
https://forums.quattroworld.com/allroad/msgs/251501.phtml

Tried it, still no crank no start, and warning on cluster still says depress clutch when it’s already depressed..
I’m thinking I should have only done the pin 39, but am unsure.

I’ll be making very good friends with the wiring diagrams tonight and will hopefully see what I’m missing, and if it’s not too cold I’ll be trying to manual trigger my starter to make sure it’s good and that starter power and ground are right.

In the meantime, the experts that roam these threads are welcome to jump in and point out anything I missed. Or if you think this should be it’s own thread elsewhere like V8 tech, I can delete and move it..
I could use a win right now, and hearing it run would more than suffice!!
Thanks all..

[Bordom]

Alright, sorry to be thread jacking with problems, but seems the best place-

2001 allroad 6mt (factory, not manual swapped)
2003 S8 4.2 motor and ECU with immo defeated
2002 S6 engine harness and starter harness

Currently a no crank, no start.

I then followed threads for C5 manual swaps and installed wire into ecu pin 39 and ran to front clutch switch, then white wire tapped to brake switch, then took brwn/wht wire from starter relay and ran it to clutch switch and ground other side.
I followed the instructions in this post for wiring it to start
https://forums.quattroworld.com/allroad/msgs/251501.phtml

Tried it, still no crank no start, and warning on cluster still says depress clutch when it’s already depressed..
I’m thinking I should have only done the pin 39, but am unsure.

I’ll be making very good friends with the wiring diagrams tonight and will hopefully see what I’m missing, and if it’s not too cold I’ll be trying to manual trigger my starter to make sure it’s good and that starter power and ground are right.

In the meantime, the experts that roam these threads are welcome to jump in and point out anything i missed.
I could use a win right now, and hearing it run would more than suffice!!
Thanks all..As I understand, you can't use a D2 ECU with a C5 harness. There's a bunch of wiring that has to happen with the chassis plugs as well. I'm not familiar with it though.

I would personally find a C5 ECU to use with that harness. Also, that Allroad uses an APB 2.7T, so you should be following the B5 4.2 swap procedures for it.

Also, for job crank situation, triple check your grounds and bypass the clutch switch. I chased a no crank for almost 3 weeks before I triple checked my grounds and found my engine block ground was my problem

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[8520]

Alright, sorry to be thread jacking with problems, but seems the best place-

2001 allroad 6mt (factory, not manual swapped)
2003 S8 4.2 motor and ECU with immo defeated
2002 S6 engine harness and starter harness

Currently a no crank, no start.

I then followed threads for C5 manual swaps and installed wire into ecu pin 39 and ran to front clutch switch, then white wire tapped to brake switch, then took brwn/wht wire from starter relay and ran it to clutch switch and ground other side.
I followed the instructions in this post for wiring it to start
https://forums.quattroworld.com/allroad/msgs/251501.phtml

Tried it, still no crank no start, and warning on cluster still says depress clutch when it’s already depressed..
I’m thinking I should have only done the pin 39, but am unsure.

I’ll be making very good friends with the wiring diagrams tonight and will hopefully see what I’m missing, and if it’s not too cold I’ll be trying to manual trigger my starter to make sure it’s good and that starter power and ground are right.

In the meantime, the experts that roam these threads are welcome to jump in and point out anything I missed. Or if you think this should be it’s own thread elsewhere like V8 tech, I can delete and move it..
I could use a win right now, and hearing it run would more than suffice!!
Thanks all..

You have multiple things going on, and I hope you have a multimeter and understand basic 12v wiring.

1. Starter could be simple. You might have plugged in the trigger wire to the wrong pin, 4.2 starters have two, and only one triggers the starter. With a multimeter test for 12v at the trigger wire, if it isn’t there then you need to work backwards. Ecu won’t stop the car from cranking. I would also bypass the clutch interlock relay completely with a jumper wire for now. Also verify you have 12v at the heavy gauge starter wire.

2. You’re basically doing the opposite of what I did in my 2.7 s6 swap. I put a 2001 2.7 engine harness in a 2002 s6, and it was a huge hassle. The basic problem is that coil packs and other engine items are powered differently. In basic terms a 2001 2.7 powers coil packs etc by ignition power directly. Key switch feeds power through the fusebox directly to coil packs, whereas a 2002, the coil packs etc’s power is triggered by a relay in the plenum box that is controlled by the ecu. Rewiring might be as simple as triggering that relay with ignition power, but you might need to rewire plenum plugs and the fusebox like I did. I believe I have an excel sheet posted in this thread with both plenum pinouts. Those would be your friend right now.

3. I don’t think a d2 s8 ecu will work. I would speculate that are differences that will cause you issues. Your best bet is to use a c5 s6 ecu. If you decide you need one, I have a couple of them I’d sell pretty cheap ($100)

[Dirtyb5]

Hey there. I’m running a d2 s8 ecu in my 3.0-4.2 swap. Harness is from a 2002 a6 4.2. I did no additional wiring beyond the manual swap stuff and it runs great.


My engine is an ays from an s8 if that makes any difference

[kompressorrado]

So after a month or so of no garage time, I finally got in there today and took advantage of warm weather and wife/kids being gone for the afternoon...

I solved the starter issue- I did indeed have the starter trigger on the wrong contact.
I now have a good crank, but no fuel/ignition power, and my obd2 reader isn't speaking to ecu with ignition on.
I can see from the link below that I have a couple wires to jump for my combo (01 AR 2.7t with 02 S8 40v), but the image is blurred out and I'm having a helluva time figuring out what to jump. https://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?t=50232 If anyone can help clarify, it would be appreciated. In the meantime, I'll be comparing wiring diagrams to see if I can track them down.

Thanks to all for the help! Getting closer...
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/iammrfancypants/954402_10153545673580227_1148256543_n_zps39ak7ppa. jpg

[Bordom]

Looks pretty simple. Do any of those wires match up to what you have in your fuse box?

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[kompressorrado]

They match up partially. I have FP pressurizing, but no power to ignition coils. Working through it with the diagrams..