Haldex failure thread

[liljonny16]

Pretty confident my Haldex is fine...



https://youtu.be/GQ9Dzszusi0

Very nice!

- - - Updated - - -


im curious what the offer was on the new car and what exactly was the new car?

New loaded A4. They were offering $10K off.

[ralphie_43]

Has anyone done a diy replay of the haldex controller unit?

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[rex_racer]

Has anyone done a diy replay of the haldex controller unit?

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Some people have had luck performing basic settings. Have you attempted to do this on your own with VCDS?

[ralphie_43]

Some people have had luck performing basic settings. Have you attempted to do this on your own with VCDS?I purchased an entire new controller off the forums on here. I haven't tried vcds since I don't own it out obd11

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[liljonny16]

I don't have a diy but it's very easy to do. There's going to be two Torx 30 screws that you have need to take out and two cables that you need to unplug. Now, those plugs might be a little more difficult than others because they have rubber gaskets on the inside. But it's still an easy job.

[ralphie_43]

I don't have a diy but it's very easy to do. There's going to be two Torx 30 screws that you have need to take out and two cables that you need to unplug. Now, those plugs might be a little more difficult than others because they have rubber gaskets on the inside. But it's still an easy job.Thanks man I appreciate it! Hopefully this fixes my problem


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[ralphie_43]

I don't have a diy but it's very easy to do. There's going to be two Torx 30 screws that you have need to take out and two cables that you need to unplug. Now, those plugs might be a little more difficult than others because they have rubber gaskets on the inside. But it's still an easy job.Did you have to run any vagcom adaptations?

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[liljonny16]

I did not. Just installed it and went for a test drive.

[ralphie_43]

I did not. Just installed it and went for a test drive.[emoji1360] thanks for the help

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[ralphie_43]

I don't have a diy but it's very easy to do. There's going to be two Torx 30 screws that you have need to take out and two cables that you need to unplug. Now, those plugs might be a little more difficult than others because they have rubber gaskets on the inside. But it's still an easy job.Hey man just got the controller where are the bolts located that I need to remove?826438264482645

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[MikTip]

Over on the Ross-Tech forums...its stated the pump is a know issue. It has a lifetime filter which clogs. Pump change is recommended...

[Dubfound]

Over on the Ross-Tech forums...its stated the pump is a know issue. It has a lifetime filter which clogs. Pump change is recommended...

Yup! The dealer just replaced my pump under warranty. No more FWD burnouts. Haha

[liljonny16]

Hey man just got the controller where are the bolts located that I need to remove?826438264482645

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Those two holes in your first pic are where the bolts are going to be located. That's how it's attached to the Haldex unit.

[liljonny16]

Over on the Ross-Tech forums...its stated the pump is a know issue. It has a lifetime filter which clogs. Pump change is recommended...

That is the issue for some people. Others, such as myself it has been the Haldex controller. I've seen someone post a specific code that pops up for the pump. I do wonder though, how many people actually cleaned the filter on the their pump before they let the dealer replace it. Because, yes, the screen does become clogged preventing proper pressure. After you clean the screen, I can't see why the pump wouldn't work. Anyone have any first hand experience with cleaning the pump and your AWD return to normal?

Either way, the two items failing are the pumps and the Haldex controller. Which both can be purchased for significantly less than an entire new rear differential. Glad we're all coming together to figure this out to prevent as many r@pes as possible from the dealerships.

[ralphie_43]

That is the issue for some people. Others, such as myself it has been the Haldex controller. I've seen someone post a specific code that pops up for the pump. I do wonder though, how many people actually cleaned the filter on the their pump before they let the dealer replace it. Because, yes, the screen does become clogged preventing proper pressure. After you clean the screen, I can't see why the pump wouldn't work. Anyone have any first hand experience with cleaning the pump and your AWD return to normal?

Either way, the two items failing are the pumps and the Haldex controller. Which both can be purchased for significantly less than an entire new rear differential. Glad we're all coming together to figure this out to prevent as many r@pes as possible from the dealerships.Confirming here that my awd works again! I'm very happy definitely beats spending the stupid amount I was quoted. The controller swap worked for me so add one more point for haldex controller replacement [emoji1363]

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[liljonny16]

Confirming here that my awd works again! I'm very happy definitely beats spending the stupid amount I was quoted. The controller swap worked for me so add one more point for haldex controller replacement [emoji1363]

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Awesome!! Good to hear!

[MikTip]

Yup! The dealer just replaced my pump under warranty. No more FWD burnouts. Haha

Nice[wrench]

[MikTip]

That is the issue for some people. Others, such as myself it has been the Haldex controller. I've seen someone post a specific code that pops up for the pump. I do wonder though, how many people actually cleaned the filter on the their pump before they let the dealer replace it. Because, yes, the screen does become clogged preventing proper pressure. After you clean the screen, I can't see why the pump wouldn't work. Anyone have any first hand experience with cleaning the pump and your AWD return to normal?

Either way, the two items failing are the pumps and the Haldex controller. Which both can be purchased for significantly less than an entire new rear differential. Glad we're all coming together to figure this out to prevent as many r@pes as possible from the dealerships.

Good to know! Thanks

[MikTip]

Looking at the pump and its R&R proceedure....

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/TNkAAOSw~JRaoaya/s-l1600.jpg

Removing it to see if filter/screen is clogged....doesnt look too difficult....[wrench]

[MikTip]

Found this:

https://www.jimellisvwparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=740527&ukey_product=5178238

[MikTip]

The pump, new from Audi...

https://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/Volkswagen-VW/Passat/Repair-kit-for-primer-pump-REPARATURSATZ-FUER-VORLADEPUMPE/5178238/0AY598549A.html

Obviously VWOA knows there is an issue, and offers a repair set for the Haldex. Amazing!

[MikTip]

ECS

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/haldex-pump-repair-kit/0cq598549/


Jim Ellis

https://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/REPKIT/11476002/0CQ598549.html

[rex_racer]

Looking at the pump and its R&R proceedure....

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/TNkAAOSw~JRaoaya/s-l1600.jpg

Removing it to see if filter/screen is clogged....doesnt look too difficult....[wrench]

If that is indeed the newest revision, then that is yet another filter screen material that was previously unused. The original was a cotton type material. The revision was a metallic screen. This newest one is a flat screen.

[bakedcorn]

Hey guys question.....this Haldex issue is weighing on me as my wife and I have both an A3 and S3 with under 40k kilometres. I personally have not had chance to test the system besides in winter weather however is there anything that I or we can do in the interim to help maintain the system? Is there an actual walk through on how to drain and replace the filter etc.
Warranty is up same time next year so trying to avoid an unexpected repair.
Thanks


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[MikTip]

Hey guys question.....this Haldex issue is weighing on me as my wife and I have both an A3 and S3 with under 40k kilometres. I personally have not had chance to test the system besides in winter weather however is there anything that I or we can do in the interim to help maintain the system? Is there an actual walk through on how to drain and replace the filter etc.
Warranty is up same time next year so trying to avoid an unexpected repair.
Thanks


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Haldex

Oil change at 40K

Google Haldex oil change...tons of info!

The A3/S3 filter is on the end of the pump.

We are posting here the pump and possible removal of the pump to check and see if pump filter on the end of the pump maybe blocked, causing issues.

If your Haldex is functioning fine there is no need to pull the pump.

DIY of the Haldex oil is pretty easy, just make sure the car is level.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/6u6e7u4a.jpg HF=haldex fill PF=haldex Drain. Hold 3/4 of a liter...

The "drain" is the gear oil for the diff. dont mix'm.

The electronic controller and the pump(both electrical) look to be the 2 main items that can cause issues....

The controller has really no way for us to "test" it to predetermine possible failure....

Audi and VW both offer new replacement controller and pump if one fails.

Both look simple enough to DIY and adapt with VCDS

[MikTip]

If that is indeed the newest revision, then that is yet another filter screen material that was previously unused. The original was a cotton type material. The revision was a metallic screen. This newest one is a flat screen.

Looks to be this version:

https://www.jimellisvwparts.com/images/uploads/SimplePart%20-%20Audi/fullsize/a_20170718_0804547188.png

[quickslvr624]

Just got back from the dealership. Advisor told me nothing was wrong with the AWD system, this is normal operation for this car because they are FWD biased. I even showed him both TSB's for this issue and he said they did not apply because there were no fault codes stored.


https://youtu.be/xyNXlA9vyFY

I'm very frustrated to say the least

[ralphie_43]

Just got back from the dealership. Advisor told me nothing was wrong with the AWD system, this is normal operation for this car because they are FWD biased. I even showed him both TSB's for this issue and he said they did not apply because there were no fault codes stored.


https://youtu.be/xyNXlA9vyFY

I'm very frustrated to say the leastHappend to me too. I solved my issue by replacing the haldex controller and it worked for me and a couple others on this thread. The most important questions are you modified and are tpu still in warranty

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[quickslvr624]

Happend to me too. I solved my issue by replacing the haldex controller and it worked for me and a couple others on this thread. The most important questions are you modified and are tpu still in warranty

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I just bought it a few weeks ago as a CPO from Audi. It's not modified.

[ralphie_43]

I just bought it a few weeks ago as a CPO from Audi. It's not modified.Ohh ok I would call Audi Of America if I were you this definitely not normal operating

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[yeedub]

When I had this issue, the AWD fault code would be logged after every burn out from launch control

[Makersmark]

Discovered Haldex issues from burnout on launch control and wheel spin under heavy acceleration in first. 2015 with 39k. I purchased CPO a little under two months ago. I took it to two different Audi dealerships, both of them saying nothing was wrong. Both techs talked about how experienced they were driving 600 hp racecars so they know what they're talking about, and that there's no way to avoid wheelspin. I sat with one of them during the diag test drive and watched the TC light up while accelerating in 2nd, still normal according to them. Luckily all mine took was a OBD11 fix. [22] AWD ->Basic Settings -> Pump Motor. I haven't had a chance to try launch control again but the spin under heavy acceleration is gone.

[GreyA3]

I have a 2015 A3 with haldex, there isn't enough power for an AWD burnout.

My launches only had excessive wheelspin when my haldex unit was broken.

My dealer covered it under warranty. If I were you, I'd just attempt to return it and look up lemon laws in your area.

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[Makersmark]

Mine is s3. And if it was an awd burnout wouldn't that imply that the rear wheels are engaging? Mine was just spinning front but it's fixed now.

[DeadxDawn]

Well, I've been a long time VW owner (18 to date), and had an Audi about 10 years ago, but was so frustrated with the repairs and dealerships, that I stuck to VW.

Bought my 16' S3 this summer up here in Canada, not even half way through it's bumper to bumper warranty, traded in my very clean 15' GLI. within weeks of buying the S3 I noticed front wheel spin, which is exactly why I wanted an S3 - to have awd/traction.

Did a bunch of mild mods, stage 2 tcu/ecu tunes, ended up getting worse, got a code, and was basically no awd at all, only fwd. When we did the DP, I noticed the rear coupler was warped and chewed up, so I booked it into Audi.

Long story short, the audi dealership flagged it TD1, and refused to fix any of the issues I had with the haldex , as they diagnosed not only a clutch assembly failure, but pump and controller as well.

To make things better, the service advisor refused to fix my auto headlight issue, stating 'once a car is chipped, you basically have no warranty'. This infuriated me, as I have worked for VW twice, and know that your warranty isn't completely gone from a damn air/fuel tune. Oh, and they tried to sucker me into a full tire mount and balance. didn't even diagnose my loose exhaust valve.

My car has a K code dif. I used launch control 2 times in the 4000km I've owned it. Im writing Audi Canada to see if theres something that can be done, because an electric controller and pump failing seems to be pretty coincidental. I'm not getting my hopes up that they'll care. It's killed the very short honeymoon I had with this car, and Ill probably trade it off at a loss once its fixed, go back to VW (at least the dealership I normally deal with will back a customer with a mild tuned car ffs)

Its more frustrating there's no upgrade for these parts. Ugh!

1. Since purchasing it (used) noticed front wheel spin, after tune, was excessive and threw AWD Mechanical Malfunction (C111307)
2. 40,000km
3. 2016 S3 PP
4. C111307
5. Nothing fixed to date.

[yeedub]

If it was stock and you showed the code they would have fixed it for you

[DeadxDawn]

If it was stock and you showed the code they would have fixed it for you

Um, ya, I know.

[PhilS3]

Discovered Haldex issues from burnout on launch control and wheel spin under heavy acceleration in first. 2015 with 39k. I purchased CPO a little under two months ago. I took it to two different Audi dealerships, both of them saying nothing was wrong. Both techs talked about how experienced they were driving 600 hp racecars so they know what they're talking about, and that there's no way to avoid wheelspin. I sat with one of them during the diag test drive and watched the TC light up while accelerating in 2nd, still normal according to them. Luckily all mine took was a OBD11 fix. [22] AWD ->Basic Settings -> Pump Motor. I haven't had a chance to try launch control again but the spin under heavy acceleration is gone.

Sounds a lot like my experience from the first dealership I went to. The TC light was on while accelerating and the tech was saying it was normal due to having 300hp. The second dealership I went to fixed the problem.

[sersanli]

1. I was turning from a corner and when the torque was transferred to rear wheels I heard a little punching noise from the rear bottom of the car. It was interesting but didn't feel any torque loss on the rear axle. However couple of days later I heard a terrible metal grinding noise whenever I hit the gas pedal in dynamic mode. It continued every single time I did it. Rear wheels lost torque as well.
2. 18.000 km
3. 2016/April S3 Sedan (Last series of non facelift)
4. There wasn't any error codes
5. My car is still under warranty. I took it to the AD. While examining, in the first day they found a water coolant leakage. Replaced that part under warranty. Afterwards it took a week to diagnose the Haldex problem. They said it was the Haldex coupling (Part #5Q0521307). Now we are waiting for that part to be delivered from Germany, 10 more days!

When I checked under the car, they showed me the coupling. Yes it was broken, the ring shaped metal cover was all shaky and the inside was literally chewed. However they said they are not %100 sure if this is the only problem. They believe it will fix all the problems regarding traction and the noise but "there is always" a chance that could also be something else besides the broken coupling.

I uploaded the live image photo that shows the broken part.


https://youtu.be/TVEBezZimJM

I will keep it updated after I get the car back.

I would really appreciate the comments if this broken coupling would really cause that grinding noise and traction loss. I hope this doesn't last with a Haldex change.

[Hites]

I don't know if this has been said before, but it seems like the "pump failures" are likely caused by the filter blinding and then cavitating the pump. Has anybody had the symptoms of a failed pump, removed their pump, cleaned the filter, and then reinstalled the suspect pump?
I'm curious if the pumps are failing due to cavitation or if they just seem to have failed.

[VDubLove]

Just got my 2015 CPO S3 back from the dealer with a Haldex traction concern. The traction control lights up every time the car is driven hard from a stand still and when ESC is off it appears as though the rear is not engaging at all. The car has new Continental summer tires on it and every time I have driven it hard has been in the dry.

My SA tells me that they test drove it numerous times and were unable to "replicate" my concern. I have a pretty good relationship with my SA, as this is the second Audi I have taken to this dealer for service. I would like to believe that she is being honest with me and not trying to get out of a warranty repair somehow.

The car has 29,xxx miles on it and is, according to them, not throwing any codes when scanned. I think the next step is to have a tech drive or ride along with me so he can experience what I am experiencing. Judging by what I've read on here, most people seem to have a similar experience to mine.

All I know for sure is that something is definitely wrong.

[a4000]

Just got my 2015 CPO S3 back from the dealer with a Haldex traction concern. The traction control lights up every time the car is driven hard from a stand still and when ESC is off it appears as though the rear is not engaging at all. The car has new Continental summer tires on it and every time I have driven it hard has been in the dry.

My SA tells me that they test drove it numerous times and were unable to "replicate" my concern. I have a pretty good relationship with my SA, as this is the second Audi I have taken to this dealer for service. I would like to believe that she is being honest with me and not trying to get out of a warranty repair somehow.

The car has 29,xxx miles on it and is, according to them, not throwing any codes when scanned. I think the next step is to have a tech drive or ride along with me so he can experience what I am experiencing. Judging by what I've read on here, most people seem to have a similar experience to mine.

All I know for sure is that something is definitely wrong.

Dealers are idiots. Do a launch and show them you are fwd.

[sersanli]

So my Haldex Coupling is replaced under warranty but there is still no traction on the rear axle. I'm going to leave the car to the service tomorrow. It'll be good to hear your suggestions in order to confirm the actions of the service. Thanks everyone.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bo7WvL2Xmlg

[maskari_gti]

So my Haldex Coupling is replaced under warranty but there is still no traction on the rear axle. I'm going to leave the car to the service tomorrow. It'll be good to hear your suggestions in order to confirm the actions of the service. Thanks everyone.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bo7WvL2Xmlg

May sound stupid, but did the dealer confirm that the pump is functional?


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[sersanli]

May sound stupid, but did the dealer confirm that the pump is functional?


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Nope, still not. Is it normal to face this issue when car is 2 years old and only on 18k km?


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[maskari_gti]

Nope, still not. Is it normal to face this issue when car is 2 years old and only on 18k km?


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I discovered this issue on my car right after I bought it (used). It had done at that time around 24k miles. So I’d say yes.

I think it’s about how often you engage the Quattro. So it’s always on your driving style. All or most issues starts with a clogged oil filter. They look terrible.


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[DeadxDawn]

So my Haldex Coupling is replaced under warranty but there is still no traction on the rear axle. I'm going to leave the car to the service tomorrow. It'll be good to hear your suggestions in order to confirm the actions of the service. Thanks everyone.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bo7WvL2Xmlg

This is pretty much exactly what my coupler looked/felt like, that led me to bringing in the car.

All warranty denied from being flagged td1, and was told my clutch assembly was fried, and needed to be replaced. Quote for everything, was $6800 cdn.

I wrote Audi Canada 2 weeks ago, to voice my concerns that these parts are known for failure, regardless , how could the dealership tell me ALL of my warranty was void on a 2 year old car with 40k left of warranty...

No reply from Audi yet. On Monday I will be calling them.

[Hites]

I discovered this issue on my car right after I bought it (used). It had done at that time around 24k miles. So I’d say yes.

I think it’s about how often you engage the Quattro. So it’s always on your driving style. All or most issues starts with a clogged oil filter. They look terrible.


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Please confirm that what you're saying is that the root cause of these haldex issues could be the pump filter blinding.
Thank you.

[maskari_gti]

Pictures aren’t mine.


I can’t say it’s 100% the cause but see how nasty the filter could get.


90791

90792


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[bakedcorn]

Really dumb question on my part and I’m prepared to be pummelled with tomatoes however if the Haldex unit fails does that mean the stability control no longer works?
I don’t believe we have the Haldex issue in both vehicles however I’ll be requesting if they can inspect the filter and drain and replace given the fact my car is due for its scheduled maintenance in the next few days.


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[sersanli]

This is pretty much exactly what my coupler looked/felt like, that led me to bringing in the car.

All warranty denied from being flagged td1, and was told my clutch assembly was fried, and needed to be replaced. Quote for everything, was $6800 cdn.

I wrote Audi Canada 2 weeks ago, to voice my concerns that these parts are known for failure, regardless , how could the dealership tell me ALL of my warranty was void on a 2 year old car with 40k left of warranty...

No reply from Audi yet. On Monday I will be calling them.

Here is my update!

My authorized Audi service told me that my whole haldex unit was faulty and needed to be replaced (over $5,000). I requested the fault code but they didn't tell me any code and I decided to take the car to another service. Looks like there wasn't anything wrong with my haldex, it was only front bevel box which transfers the power to the shaft. I'm shocked how they detected it wrong but its fixed now.

Always keep in mind that front bevel box can be broken easily, unfortunately this is mostly caused by launch controls.

So its not always your haldex that gets broken... I hope this helps people that have rear traction issues.

[TCHUN003]

Read this on facebook, but maybe you guys can give this a try. Use a vagcom or OBD11:

(22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Pump motor

Run the test with the engine on and let it run until it says done.

[BJustinR]

Purchased a 2015 S3 prestige @ 27k Miles. Brought it in to my Audi dealership just to do an inspection. Love my SA, I stated the haldex issue from this forum. They said they heard of it on their Audi Forum. I said I Never performed a launch but I only wanted the haldex to get inspected. I told them I smell coolant as well.

About three hours later, he called me back and said the haldex pump will be replaced and the radiator was leaking so that’ll get replaced all under warranty. SA said I can get my car back tomorrow since I’ll parts are in stock.

[TwoLeftFeetMatt]

Sorry to hijack the post with a personal question, but would you all even consider buying a used 2015 S3 with 50k miles on it, or is the Haldex issue really that prevalent? As far as I know, I cannot check how many times the original owner used LC. I do plan on getting an ECU tune and possible a TCU tune as well. I would be purchasing it through a used dealer and not Audi themselves. Considering the extended warranty too. Thoughts?

[George@BMS]

Sorry to hijack the post with a personal question, but would you all even consider buying a used 2015 S3 with 50k miles on it, or is the Haldex issue really that prevalent? As far as I know, I cannot check how many times the original owner used LC. I do plan on getting an ECU tune and possible a TCU tune as well. I would be purchasing it through a used dealer and not Audi themselves. Considering the extended warranty too. Thoughts?

I don't think the failures relate to how many times its used LC. On our R we have done 1000's of launches and didn't have issues.

[skevovr6]

Well looks like my haldex is shot on my 15 A3 at 41k. Replaced the haldex pump and all since it was fairly cheap along with the fluid. The excessive wheel spin still persists, and the C1113 07 code is showing on vag com. Car is Uni stage 2 debating on whether to bother with the dealer or just buy a used diff.

[949]

Read this on facebook, but maybe you guys can give this a try. Use a vagcom or OBD11:

(22) AWD -> Basic Settings -> Pump motor

Run the test with the engine on and let it run until it says done.

what are you looking for after its done?

[2010A6]

Just had my first experience with some crazy front axel wheel spin. Launched and it didn't catch for over a whole second. The car only has 6,600 miles on it but it was raining out too so I'm not sure what to think here.

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[Bkemps12]

My haldex stopped working at around 50k miles. I replaced the haldex pump and fluid (very easy job for any DIYer's) and the problem persisted. Took it to the dealership, explained what happened and what I did to resolve the issue. The transmission ended up having to be reflashed and reprogrammed (my car is completely stock), totaling $147. At 79k miles now and still working like a champ.

[ccoop6]

Thanks for this thread. I’ve only had my 2015 S3 for 45 days. What is the best way to test for a Haldex issue? I floored it from a slit roll goi g up a slight incline and got a decent amount of wheel spin. Should this happen in any condition or setting? It was 25 degrees outside. Any advice for testing is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Thanks for this thread. I’ve only had my 2015 S3 for 45 days. What is the best way to test for a Haldex issue? I floored it from a slit roll goi g up a slight incline and got a decent amount of wheel spin. Should this happen in any condition or setting? It was 25 degrees outside. Any advice for testing is greatly appreciated.

ThanksYou should get zero wheel spin, unless your making at least 600 wheelhorsepower and 600 wheel torque.

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[ccoop6]

You should get zero wheel spin, unless your making at least 600 wheelhorsepower and 600 wheel torque.

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Thanks so much! I believe there are a few months left on my warranty. I’ll bring it in. Any advice for dealing with the dealership?

[GreyA3]

Thanks for this thread. I’ve only had my 2015 S3 for 45 days. What is the best way to test for a Haldex issue? I floored it from a slit roll goi g up a slight incline and got a decent amount of wheel spin. Should this happen in any condition or setting? It was 25 degrees outside. Any advice for testing is greatly appreciated.

ThanksIf there is a wet patch you could set your tires in, launch it out of there with launch control. If your tires slip more than a second or two, I'd have someone record the wheel spin from the out side of the vehicle.


Best of luck bud

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Thanks so much! I believe there are a few months left on my warranty. I’ll bring it in. Any advice for dealing with the dealership?Go in and let them you that your AWD car should not be exhibiting wheel spin at any speed, you looked into it and through the forums there seems to be documented evidence of the issue with S3s and a technical service bulletin to replace parts to alleviate the wheelspin problem.

My advice would be to ask for a tech to do a ride along with you so you dont get the "unable to duplicate customer's concern", meaning that they cant seem to find the issue.

This way you can show them the wheel spin issue yourself. Also, if they try to say its normal, let them take out another S3, preferebly a facelift model that does not have the issue and let them prove to you that its normal.

Good luck.

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[ccoop6]

If there is a wet patch you could set your tires in, launch it out of there with launch control. If your tires slip more than a second or two, I'd have someone record the wheel spin from the out side of the vehicle.


Best of luck bud

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Thanks so much! I’ll try launching the car with TC on. I’ll also try the LC with the TC completely OFF and see what happens.



Go in and let them you that your AWD car should not be exhibiting wheel spin at any speed, you looked into it and through the forums there seems to be documented evidence of the issue with S3s and a technical service bulletin to replace parts to alleviate the wheelspin problem.

My advice would be to ask for a tech to do a ride along with you so you dont get the "unable to duplicate customer's concern", meaning that they cant seem to find the issue.

This way you can show them the wheel spin issue yourself. Also, if they try to say its normal, let them take out another S3, preferebly a facelift model that does not have the issue and let them prove to you that its normal.

Good luck.

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That makes complete sense. I’m going to make sure it’s a for sure issue first but I feel like there is an issue. I’ll come back after further investigation.

Thanks!

[ccoop6]

Today was the perfect morning to try the haldex. It was wet outside, I turn traction control off, launch the car and the front wheels spun like crazy with minimal push from the rear. Time to go to the dealership.

[GreyA3]

Today was the perfect morning to try the haldex. It was wet outside, I turn traction control off, launch the car and the front wheels spun like crazy with minimal push from the rear. Time to go to the dealership.Sorry to hear that. I'd suggest a video for easy viewing evidence at the dealership.

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[ccoop6]

I’ll try to get one. After watching people drive in the snow and launch in the rain, something definitely isn’t right. Thanks!

[Makersmark]

I’ll try to get one. After watching people drive in the snow and launch in the rain, something definitely isn’t right. Thanks!Good luck. I took mine to two dealerships with the same issue. Both refused to acknowledge there was an issue. Luckily the obdeleven pump reset fixed mine.

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[sersanli]

Stay away from ADs, get yourself a pro service ;) ADs have never fixed my issues.

[ccoop6]

Stay away from ADs, get yourself a pro service ;) ADs have never fixed my issues.

Wouldn’t they have to fix it to be repaired under warranty?

[sersanli]

Wouldn’t they have to fix it to be repaired under warranty?

I had a grinding noise under the car. I left my car to the AD and expected it to get fixed. They replaced rear coupling and gave me the car a month later, the noise was gone but it was %100 fwd. Only a day later, I left the car back to the AD. They didn't do anything for another 10 days and called me to say that my car got flagged as TD1. I said OK, then what? They told me that they need to replace the rear differential for $6k. Also they wanted to charge me the price of coupling ($ 1k) even if the car was flagged after it was replaced under warranty. I told them that I don't care if it is flagged as TD1 or whatever, the car was delivered faulty and it wasn't fwd when I left them the car. A little bit of arguing etc... I took the car to a well known private service.

Only in 20 mins they found out that it was the bevel box which got broken. And I can honestly say that it was working perfectly when I left the car to the AD. Asked what causes this fault and they told me it could be excessive amounts of launch control in a row or it could be the usage of emergency brake at a speed over 50 kps (in order to save haldex bevel box slips the gear).

I called the AD and told them what happened and asked them how it happened. No reply - and got blocked by the formen's mobile phone.

I got the car back only in 22 hours after leaving it to them. All fixed and working perfectly. They had the bevel box in stock and replaced it for a very good price . Unlike the AD, there wasn't anything wrong with the rear diff. What would have happened if I left the car at the AD and pay 6k for the replacement of the rear diff? It would be still fwd and I would probably hear that they couldn't fix it because it's a TD1 case.... They are pathetic and careless.

So that's my story and why I stay away from the AD :)

[ccoop6]

I
I had a grinding noise under the car. I left my car to the AD and expected it to get fixed. They replaced rear coupling and gave me the car a month later, the noise was gone but it was %100 fwd. Only a day later, I left the car back to the AD. They didn't do anything for another 10 days and called me to say that my car got flagged as TD1. I said OK, then what? They told me that they need to replace the rear differential for $6k. Also they wanted to charge me the price of coupling ($ 1k) even if the car was flagged after it was replaced under warranty. I told them that I don't care if it is flagged as TD1 or whatever, the car was delivered faulty and it wasn't fwd when I left them the car. A little bit of arguing etc... I took the car to a well known private service.

Only in 20 mins they found out that it was the bevel box which got broken. And I can honestly say that it was working perfectly when I left the car to the AD. Asked what causes this fault and they told me it could be excessive amounts of launch control in a row or it could be the usage of emergency brake at a speed over 50 kps (in order to save haldex bevel box slips the gear).

I called the AD and told them what happened and asked them how it happened. No reply - and got blocked by the formen's mobile phone.

I got the car back only in 22 hours after leaving it to them. All fixed and working perfectly. They had the bevel box in stock and replaced it for a very good price . Unlike the AD, there wasn't anything wrong with the rear diff. What would have happened if I left the car at the AD and pay 6k for the replacement of the rear diff? It would be still fwd and I would probably hear that they couldn't fix it because it's a TD1 case.... They are pathetic and careless.

So that's my story and why I stay away from the AD :)

I completely understand. I’m going to drop it off and expect an answer on what’s wrong the same day. We shall see what happens! I’ve had great experience with AD so far.

[mr gee]

I got a 2015 S3

Last month, Traction Control would light up under hard acceleration including steering wheel tugging. The car had only 42,000 kms since new and had never been launched.

Took it to an independant VAG service centre who diagnosed it as the Haldex pump (they say the 2015 model haldex pump was prone to failure) Replaced said pump with a later version. So far so good.

[ravi155]

I bought S3 2015 last month.

Tried LC, ended with front axle wheelspin like in my previous Leon Cupra FWD.
Took it to Authorised Service, they uploaded new software to haldex, everything works fine now.

[ccoop6]

I got a 2015 S3

Last month, Traction Control would light up under hard acceleration including steering wheel tugging. The car had only 42,000 kms since new and had never been launched.

Took it to an independant VAG service centre who diagnosed it as the Haldex pump (they say the 2015 model haldex pump was prone to failure) Replaced said pump with a later version. So far so good.


I bought S3 2015 last month.

Tried LC, ended with front axle wheelspin like in my previous Leon Cupra FWD.
Took it to Authorised Service, they uploaded new software to haldex, everything works fine now.

Thank you both. I’ll mention this to the service department. I tried a launch with TCS OFF and front wheels spun hard.

[ccoop6]

I took the car to Audi Atlanta yesterday. From Audi: I just got the update from my tech. We found a fault Haladex Clutch Pump and have ordered the part and some needed hardware. The part will arrive tomorrow and should have the work done my EOD tomorrow or early the next day.

This all occurred yesterday morning. I went on a ride with the shop foreman that has been there 28 years. He did a mild pull at a yield and could tell immediately the rears were not pushing. It was 40 out and wet. I must say the dealership thus far has been extremely easy to work with and very professional. Thanks again for all your help and direction.

[S3_Miles]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/837624-JHM-DIY-MQB-Haldex-Pump-Replacement-or-Screen-Cleaning-Haldex-Fluid-Change

and moreso -




Hey Guys!

Here is a quick tutorial on how to replace your failing Haldex Pump (or clean the screen) and replace the Haldex Fluid in your MQB.


https://youtu.be/LbDij9nQGx4


We have the parts available here:

Haldex Pump: https://jhmotorsports.com/haldex-pump...

Haldex Fluid: https://jhmotorsports.com/haldex-flui...


If you have any questions or need any help contact us:

209-968-0077 or [email protected]

[firemanjust1]

Well I finally got the haldex today fixed today. I had recently noticed a ton of wheel spin after getting a UM ECU & DSG tune and downpipe installed in August this year. I have the adjustable UM launch control which was useless under any conditions w brand new conti dws. After reading about failure after failure I was sure I had a issue.

Mileage is at around 55000 and noticed the problem right after getting tuned about 50k.

The car is 2015 S3

I continued to scan for codes over the past couple months with OBDeleven but no error ever came up for the awd system.

Warranty is up plus tuned so I decided to just buy the pump from ecs since it was only 150.00 along with new fluid another 30.00. I had my local indy shop install it when I called to pick it up he said it still spins a bit with launch control and still had the issue and some metal shavings in the fluid. I was fully expecting the worse when I drove it away. After paying and talking about the cost of a used diff I was on my way. I was pleasantly surprised when I rolled into 3rd gear no tc light , 2nd no tc light finally gave it the boot in 1st nothing but traction this is in 34 degree weather w all-seasons before would spin til 4th . I am concerned about the metal shavings and not sure what to think about it possible break in material ? But for now It is nice to be able to back in a proper AWD car again.

[TCHUN003]

Well I finally got the haldex today fixed today. I had recently noticed a ton of wheel spin after getting a UM ECU & DSG tune and downpipe installed in August this year. I have the adjustable UM launch control which was useless under any conditions w brand new conti dws. After reading about failure after failure I was sure I had a issue.

Mileage is at around 55000 and noticed the problem right after getting tuned about 50k.

The car is 2015 S3

I continued to scan for codes over the past couple months with OBDeleven but no error ever came up for the awd system.

Warranty is up plus tuned so I decided to just buy the pump from ecs since it was only 150.00 along with new fluid another 30.00. I had my local indy shop install it when I called to pick it up he said it still spins a bit with launch control and still had the issue and some metal shavings in the fluid. I was fully expecting the worse when I drove it away. After paying and talking about the cost of a used diff I was on my way. I was pleasantly surprised when I rolled into 3rd gear no tc light , 2nd no tc light finally gave it the boot in 1st nothing but traction this is in 34 degree weather w all-seasons before would spin til 4th . I am concerned about the metal shavings and not sure what to think about it possible break in material ? But for now It is nice to be able to back in a proper AWD car again.

Use OBD11 to run the following test:
Run the test with the engine on and let it run until it says done.

(22) AWD -> Basic Setting -> Pump Motor

[ccoop6]

The dealership replaced the clutch pack and replaced the fluid. The car works like a dream.

[A20V200]

My Haldex clutch pump gave up the ghost about a week ago in the snow. At the dealership getting fixed. Out of warranty by about 4 months, but I talked to AoA and filed a claim due to having the same issue about 1 year ago and the dealership "couldn't replicate the issue" and also it being a "known issue" on and having the TSB# .

We shall see what happens?

Update: Flashed back to stock from UM and got it fixed by the dealer so the parts and repair are warranteed by dealer. Picked up the car from the dealer and they said everything was fine, paid out of pocket. Went back to my tuner and flashed back to UM and came home about 1.5 hours away.

Message was on VM...Called the AoA rep and the case was closed due to "having an ECM tune and visual inspection of modifications on the car."

So watch out boys and girls...they are getting more stringent on their service protocols and physically looking for modifications. I took my S3 in a year ago as stated did the same flash/reflash and no TD1, only TD1 this time so something must have some new diagnostic program to check on tunes

At Least I got of cheap and not the clutch packs or the Haldex Diff..?

[Jake@JHM]

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/837624-JHM-DIY-MQB-Haldex-Pump-Replacement-or-Screen-Cleaning-Haldex-Fluid-Change

and moreso -

Thanks [up]

[RM-A3]

I have a 2015 A3 Quattro and just had my haldex pump replaced under CPO warranty at 37K miles. Had same issue, front wheel spin on launch. This thread was very helpful!
I have Uni stage 1 ECU software, flashed back to stock before taking it to dealer and didn't hear anything about it, no TD1, nothing.... but I'm not sure if the ECU was scanned at dealer.

[bakedcorn]

Hey guys looking for some input on something I noticed a day a go when have a bit of fun in the snow here in Ontario. I noticed under acceleration that there is a moaning or groaning sound from the rear when I guess rear wheels are called upon for traction. The car gets moving really good in the snow and I noticed the TCS Light is flashing but that’s go to be due to the constant acceleration in the snow/ice. But what’s got me concerned is that rear groaning sound for lack of a better word. It’s like the rear wheels are trying to catch grip or something so not sure if this is normal. The wife’s A3 does not exhibit this same sound but then again I haven’t frolicked in the A3 as I have in the S3.

Thanks for the feedback.


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[will13k7]

Mine is done for. Way too easy to spin the front wheels now. 22k miles. No codes. Car is TD1 so I’m doubtful about getting it fixed under warranty.

For those who got their’s fixed with just the pump replacement, was there anyone who also didn’t have codes?

Looks like it’s either clutches, pump, controller, or the whole thing needs replaced?

[MikTip]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmmg0zL64Hs

[MikTip]

Mine is done for. Way too easy to spin the front wheels now. 22k miles. No codes. Car is TD1 so I’m doubtful about getting it fixed under warranty.

For those who got their’s fixed with just the pump replacement, was there anyone who also didn’t have codes?

Looks like it’s either clutches, pump, controller, or the whole thing needs replaced?


The motor and controller can be output tested with VCDS

Pulling the haldex pump motor and see if its filter screen is clogged is a fast way to see how the Haldex is doing...

The debris clogging the pump is the material off of the haldex clutch disks.

[will13k7]

The motor and controller can be output tested with VCDS
thanks! I don't seem to have the same tests in vcds as that video shows for awd. It does make me wonder if audi forgot to do the adaptation step, they just changed the fluids two weeks ago and I haven't drove hard or much at all since then.

[rex_racer]

thanks! I don't seem to have the same tests in vcds as that video shows for awd. It does make me wonder if audi forgot to do the adaptation step, they just changed the fluids two weeks ago and I haven't drove hard or much at all since then.

The video lists above is for the Gen 1 controller. We're on Gen 5, so a number of things have changed. To prime the pump do the following: with car running, [22] AWD => Basic Settings => Pump Motor. Some have stated they had to pump the motor a number of times before the AWD unit was working correctly. I'd start here first, before losing fluid checking the pump screen.

[will13k7]

The video lists above is for the Gen 1 controller. We're on Gen 5, so a number of things have changed. To prime the pump do the following: with car running, [22] AWD => Basic Settings => Pump Motor. Some have stated they had to pump the motor a number of times before the AWD unit was working correctly. I'd start here first, before losing fluid checking the pump screen.

My man! Thanks, I’ll give this a shot. Kind of fun spinning the wheels on boost, but rather have Quattro.

[MikTip]

The video lists above is for the Gen 1 controller. We're on Gen 5, so a number of things have changed. To prime the pump do the following: with car running, [22] AWD => Basic Settings => Pump Motor. Some have stated they had to pump the motor a number of times before the AWD unit was working correctly. I'd start here first, before losing fluid checking the pump screen.

Guess you missed my other post...

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/763278-Haldex-failure-thread?p=13521474&viewfull=1#post13521474

Allot of people here dont have VCDS...the ones who do, know how valuable it is! [hail]

[will13k7]

To prime the pump do the following: with car running, [22] AWD => Basic Settings => Pump Motor. Some have stated they had to pump the motor a number of times before the AWD unit was working correctly. I'd start here first, before losing fluid checking the pump screen.
That worked! I owe you beer. [emoji481] found a puddle and launched it. No more front wheel burnouts.

[VDubLove]

Just got my 2015 CPO S3 back from the dealer with a Haldex traction concern. The traction control lights up every time the car is driven hard from a stand still and when ESC is off it appears as though the rear is not engaging at all. The car has new Continental summer tires on it and every time I have driven it hard has been in the dry.

My SA tells me that they test drove it numerous times and were unable to "replicate" my concern. I have a pretty good relationship with my SA, as this is the second Audi I have taken to this dealer for service. I would like to believe that she is being honest with me and not trying to get out of a warranty repair somehow.

The car has 29,xxx miles on it and is, according to them, not throwing any codes when scanned. I think the next step is to have a tech drive or ride along with me so he can experience what I am experiencing. Judging by what I've read on here, most people seem to have a similar experience to mine.

All I know for sure is that something is definitely wrong.

Update: Had the car at the dealer on Saturday and the shop foreman drove it with me in the passenger seat. He says the coupler doesn’t seem to be the problem because that normally shows when taking turns and going “side to side”. Car was scanned again and was not throwing any codes. To ease my mind, he suggested bringing the car back and drawing samples from the Haldex fluid and from the diff (I might have that part wrong??).

Is there anything else I should tell them to check and provide evidence of while it is there??


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[MikTip]

Update: Had the car at the dealer on Saturday and the shop foreman drove it with me in the passenger seat. He says the coupler doesn’t seem to be the problem because that normally shows when taking turns and going “side to side”. Car was scanned again and was not throwing any codes. To ease my mind, he suggested bringing the car back and drawing samples from the Haldex fluid and from the diff (I might have that part wrong??).

Is there anything else I should tell them to check and provide evidence of while it is there??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its the dealership acting stupid...

Their electronic "factory repair manual" tells them exactly what to do and how to check the haldex...

It has a electronic box that controls the motor.

Either the motors bad/clogged...the electronic box is bad...or both....

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/763278-Haldex-failure-thread?p=13522061&viewfull=1#post13522061

They hook up their computer and ops check the motor (22)

Amazing we here can do this and a dealership cant...

[mtarr07]

2015 S3 with intake, downpipe, turbo muffler delete, turbo inlet and tune (so stage 2).

Using launch control and upon release it spins a bit but dont get me wrong it is accelerating quickly, gets close to redline in first kind of spinning, bogs down to ~4500rpms as if traction control comes on and it grabs traction again and pulls to redline. No spinning in any gears after that.

Is this little bog to be expected especially since I'm making significantly more power over stock? Is something wrong? It IS ~40 degrees here in virginia so not exactly warm. It didn't do this when I was stock ~4 months ago but again, a lot less power.

If I use launch control in the rain it spins but isn't that kind of expected? Its wet out, you're gonna spin.

[zhanghua92]

I have the "F" rear

And now I have the UM Haldex tune and I still get some wheel spin not as much as before, but I am stage-2+ ECU / Stage-2 TCU w/Meth.

Did the tune completely fix it, no. But it did make it feel more planted and more of a push then a pull.

I have replaced:

Pump
Haldex Controller with latest revision and software
Rear transaxle w/used low mileage unit (19K).

Is it possible that the used rear had the same issue as my first one maybe. Looking for a L or M version now.

did you fixed the car? im same as you...

[zhanghua92]

I had a grinding noise under the car. I left my car to the AD and expected it to get fixed. They replaced rear coupling and gave me the car a month later, the noise was gone but it was %100 fwd. Only a day later, I left the car back to the AD. They didn't do anything for another 10 days and called me to say that my car got flagged as TD1. I said OK, then what? They told me that they need to replace the rear differential for $6k. Also they wanted to charge me the price of coupling ($ 1k) even if the car was flagged after it was replaced under warranty. I told them that I don't care if it is flagged as TD1 or whatever, the car was delivered faulty and it wasn't fwd when I left them the car. A little bit of arguing etc... I took the car to a well known private service.

Only in 20 mins they found out that it was the bevel box which got broken. And I can honestly say that it was working perfectly when I left the car to the AD. Asked what causes this fault and they told me it could be excessive amounts of launch control in a row or it could be the usage of emergency brake at a speed over 50 kps (in order to save haldex bevel box slips the gear).

I called the AD and told them what happened and asked them how it happened. No reply - and got blocked by the formen's mobile phone.

I got the car back only in 22 hours after leaving it to them. All fixed and working perfectly. They had the bevel box in stock and replaced it for a very good price . Unlike the AD, there wasn't anything wrong with the rear diff. What would have happened if I left the car at the AD and pay 6k for the replacement of the rear diff? It would be still fwd and I would probably hear that they couldn't fix it because it's a TD1 case.... They are pathetic and careless.

So that's my story and why I stay away from the AD :)

how them found out that is front bevel box? any fault code or weird sound?

[mkbss89]

Well I can add mine to the list
2016 A3 2.0T
28,000 miles
Uncontrollable spinning at anything more than 75% throttle in dry, wet. In snow car pushed the front tires and wouldn’t rotate at all. Waited for snow to be gone and took to dealership. Just called and replacing the haldex pump to fix the issue. Luckily it failed before I put the ECU and TCU tune on lol.


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[eurojunkjon]

2016 a3 2.0t
35k miles
Excessive wheel spin and haldex slow to engage.
Pump replaced under factory warranty.

[Spinnetti]

2015 S3 with intake, downpipe, turbo muffler delete, turbo inlet and tune (so stage 2).

Using launch control and upon release it spins a bit but dont get me wrong it is accelerating quickly, gets close to redline in first kind of spinning, bogs down to ~4500rpms as if traction control comes on and it grabs traction again and pulls to redline. No spinning in any gears after that.

Is this little bog to be expected especially since I'm making significantly more power over stock? Is something wrong? It IS ~40 degrees here in virginia so not exactly warm. It didn't do this when I was stock ~4 months ago but again, a lot less power.

If I use launch control in the rain it spins but isn't that kind of expected? Its wet out, you're gonna spin.

Are you fully deactivating everything by holding the traction control button for like 5 seconds? Should just rocket off if everything is shut off, but if only partially shut off I think it will do a torque intervention on spin like you mention (I'm stage II also)

[eurojunkjon]

2016 a3 2.0t
35k miles
Excessive wheel spin and haldex slow to engage.
Pump replaced under factory warranty.

Pump didn’t fix the issue haldex clutch was replaced also and fixed the issue

[VDubLove]

[QUOTE=VDubLove;13527515]Update: Had the car at the dealer on Saturday and the shop foreman drove it with me in the passenger seat. He says the coupler doesn’t seem to be the problem because that normally shows when taking turns and going “side to side”. Car was scanned again and was not throwing any codes. To ease my mind, he suggested bringing the car back and drawing samples from the Haldex fluid and from the diff (I might have that part wrong??).

Is there anything else I should tell them to check and provide evidence of while it is there??


Picked up the car today from the dealer. The pump was replaced under warranty per TSB 2049498/3. What a difference! The car feels alive again and is a proper Audi.


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[MikTip]

Im just gonna leave these here....

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/haldex-controller/0cq907554j/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/haldex-pump-repair-kit/0cq598549/

[Benboxs3]

Did you ever manage to sort this i’m getting the same😭

[Benboxs3]

When I had this issue, the AWD fault code would be logged after every burn out from launch control

I’m having same issue throws a code every time
I use launch control

[Benboxs3]

Sorry to start this up again guys! But i’m dying and almost coming to the conclusion of setting the car on fire!

All wheel drive
C1113 07 (008) mechanical failure
Intermittent

I’ve replaced the rear diff, haldex controller and pump still no luck. So I then went to Audi and updated the haldex controller and still no different!

I then yesterday replaced the bevel box as I’ve seen a few people had a problem with that! And guess what?!

STILL NO LUCK 😭

Throws a code every time I use launch control but you can tell it’s not the same as it should be. Thanks guys

[S3_Miles]

I know this is the "FAILURE" thread, but to help counterbalance the belief that ALL are doomed, I had my wife's 2016 A3 Quattro in for service at Audi Burlingame. She works there so I got a discount on a Haldex service. It has 35K on it and was in for the 35k service. I asked "While your in there, can you pull the pump - check the screen - replace the fluid, etc.

Was clean when the pump came out. No debris. They refilled with new fluid and all is good.

Will be doing my 2015 S3 next which also has 35k and will report back

[eurojunkjon]

I know this is the "FAILURE" thread, but to help counterbalance the belief that ALL are doomed, I had my wife's 2016 A3 Quattro in for service at Audi Burlingame. She works there so I got a discount on a Haldex service. It has 35K on it and was in for the 35k service. I asked "While your in there, can you pull the pump - check the screen - replace the fluid, etc.

Was clean when the pump came out. No debris. They refilled with new fluid and all is good.

Will be doing my 2015 S3 next which also has 35k and will report back


My pump actually wasn’t clogged at all it was still replaced per the tsb it was my haldex clutch that failed and was replaced to fix the issue

[Coolrunning]

Just dropped off my 15’ S3 with 20,800 miles on it. Never had an issue and it’s just time to get new fluids and clean the screen filter. I asked them to take pictures of the screen so I can share it with everyone. I’ll keep y’all posted as to what it looks like.

[MikTip]

Just dropped off my 15’ S3 with 20,800 miles on it. Never had an issue and it’s just time to get new fluids and clean the screen filter. I asked them to take pictures of the screen so I can share it with everyone. I’ll keep y’all posted as to what it looks like.

My 2015 S3 has 85,000 miles...I have DIY changed the fluid and checked the screen at 40 & 80K. The Haldex oil was little darker than new...but all is well so far. [hail]

[Coolrunning]

My 2015 S3 has 85,000 miles...I have DIY changed the fluid and checked the screen at 40 & 80K. The Haldex oil was little darker than new...but all is well so far. [hail]

That's awesome to hear man! I've followed this thread for some time and it sucks to hear that some folks just have issues, even with lite tuning and modifications done. My car(knock on wood) has been bulletproof with original haldex parts, original IS38 and more while running an MPI kit and E85.

Stoked for all new fluids and a RSB when I get it back later today!

[Coolrunning]

114625114626

2015 S3 P+ with 20,910 miles.

Pretty gunky but all cleaned up now with fresh fluids.

[iSeaUM]

1. Wheelspin during medium-to-hard launch, even when dry.
2. Discovered at aroung 20k miles.
3. 2015
4. Once plugged into the dealership service computer, an error code for the haldex pump was found.
5. Replaced haldex pump under warranty and the issue was fixed.

Literally exact situation for me, 28k miles.

[2puttBirdie]

I'm looking at buying a 2016 S3. Dealer recently sold it but it came back due to Haldex problem. Eventually they replaced the pump and clutch pack. Does that mean it's "all set", and the faulty one is taken care of? It has about 40K miles and the previous owner did maintenance on time.

[markn1689]

114625114626

2015 S3 P+ with 20,910 miles.

Pretty gunky but all cleaned up now with fresh fluids.

Hmm wow. Only 20k on a 2015. Same as me. And I am curious if it is time to perform this service. I run the car hard but I am not tuned. Will need to get this done sooner now after seeing these pics.

[S3_Miles]

Hmm wow. Only 20k on a 2015. Same as me. And I am curious if it is time to perform this service. I run the car hard but I am not tuned. Will need to get this done sooner now after seeing these pics.

If it gives you any solace, just had my 35k done on my 2015 PP S3 AND had them pull the pump/check/replace fluid. The screen was clean. That was a day ago. All good here. Last month had my wife’s 2016 A3 Quattro also in for its 35k, and same story. Seems hit and miss. Always safe to check

[RBZPierre]

1. Had a bad feeling after "CPO" purchase / LC with 2 independent mechanics watching
2. 51,000
3. 2016 S3
4. Didn't check
5. TBD and, yes, under CPO warranty

Apologies in advance for length, but I want to list all the pertinent details.

I purchased a CPO 2016 S3 on Saturday. This is in the US.

Although I absolutely love the car, my initial instinct after the test drive was to pass on it, for two reasons.

1) The driver-side visor clip was broken.

2) One of the passenger-side floor mat grommets was missing.

Although they're very, very minor issues, it made me wonder what else was missed on the CPO inspection.

The dealer promised to fix the minor issues, and pay for the next Major Maintenance, so I purchased. The lender is Audi Financial Services. I got a better rate because CPO.

Here are the major issues:

1) My kids saw Launch Control on YouTube and wanted to see one. I obliged and was rewarded with clouds of tire smoke. "That's not right," I thought. Then I found this thread. After taking it to an independent mechanic today, it was confirmed there's no quattro.

2) The car pulls slightly, but noticeably, left.

3) The "Every 3 years regardless of mileage" "Haldex clutch - replace oil" service was missed, though they made it a point to include it with the upcoming 55K Major Maintenance they're paying for.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this car never should have been CPO to begin with.

If I'm not, I feel I should void the deal and move on to another S3 from a different dealer.

If that's not possible, or extremely difficult to pull off, what should I ask for other than the obvious repairs?

I have no idea how long this S3 has been exclusively FWD. Does operating it like that cause damage beyond the Haldex issue(s) they'll fix?

This dealer, unknowingly or not, defrauded me. By sending fraudulent CPO paperwork to Audi USA and fraudulent paperwork to Audi Financial Services, they committed wire fraud, a federal crime.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[TreizeRXH]

If it gives you any solace, just had my 35k done on my 2015 PP S3 AND had them pull the pump/check/replace fluid. The screen was clean. That was a day ago. All good here. Last month had my wife’s 2016 A3 Quattro also in for its 35k, and same story. Seems hit and miss. Always safe to check

After reading this thread, it seems to me that more often than not, haldex failures are occurring in tuned vehicles.


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[Davethaboss]

After reading this thread, it seems to me that more often than not, haldex failures are occurring in tuned vehicles.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHow tuned though?
I was thinking about going stage 1 and calling it a day. Maybe a TCU tune just maybe*.

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[MikTip]

This dealer, unknowingly or not, defrauded me. By sending fraudulent CPO paperwork to Audi USA and fraudulent paperwork to Audi Financial Services, they committed wire fraud, a federal crime.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.


Speak with a lawyer

[TreizeRXH]

How tuned though?
I was thinking about going stage 1 and calling it a day. Maybe a TCU tune just maybe*.

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It's tough to say. Honestly you'd have to read through every response to get the specific details of each person's setup. But tunes are definitely popping up a lot on this thread


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[PaperLion]

This dealer, unknowingly or not, defrauded me. By sending fraudulent CPO paperwork to Audi USA and fraudulent paperwork to Audi Financial Services, they committed wire fraud, a federal crime.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

It's under warranty... have them fix it, no?

As long as they make every effort to repair the awd, I'd save the time and effort on speaking with a lawyer yet.

Honey/vinegar. Is there much else wrong with the car they can't fix? I can definitely understand feeling scammed here, but getting out of the purchase is almost always costly in some way or another (I've lost big money changing my mind on a car purchase recently). Driving a loaner while they fix stuff is pretty low impact.

Edit: also, have a look at a refinance if you end up keeping the car. VW credit is not exactly known for giving out the best interest rates to first time or buyers with less than excellent credit.

[Gusts]

Hello there,
About 6000 miles ago i bite the bullet and aquired an S3 with 22K on the odometer.
6000 miles, two haldex pump,s and a clutch pack unit later with 28K on the odo and i am here.

1. How you discovered you had the issue:

Wheel hop with traction light blinking from standstill under full acceleration (gas pedal all the way down)
Wheel hop occurred in all driving modes and Launch control

2. Mileage:

28,000

3. Model year:

2015

4. Any error codes

C111307 - All Wheel Drive (AWD) mechanical malfunction

5. What was done to fix it, and was it under warranty?

10 days before warranty expiration

FIRST attempt by dealer and a new Haldex oil pump later

Dealer went for a test drive and stated the error code did not return and i drove home accompanied by twenty thousand other cars in rush hour traffic

Haldex oil pump installed and diff. oil changed. All under warranty
All under warranty

Did a few test on a dark rainy day in an empty lot

From stand still in ALL driving modes under full accel., wheel-hop was there but noticeably less and traction light was blinking like before
When launched all all wheels appeared to be spinning with no wheel hop
I thought all was fix. This is an S3 wheel hop is normal for this much torque.





1 Day before warranty expiration and one last OBDEleven scan after a few more launchings...Same AWD error

0 Day warranty expires today

SECOND attempt by dealer and a new clutch pack later

Dealer went for a test drive and stated the car is now operating as designed

New clutch pack, apparently this includes a new ECM and pump too
Car washed
All under warranty

Did a few test on a dark rainy day in an empty lot. It was rainy all week.

From stand still in ALL driving modes under full accel., not a single chirp or buck the car just went
When launched the car just WENT! The only sound i heard
I thought...so THIS IS QUATTRO! That was FWD all this time!

[markn1689]

I just had my DSG serviced this week and ask them to take a picture. I only has 22k miles but the car is 4 years old. It was dirty for sure. But not as bad as the pic posted... In the end I was very glad I had the work done.

[DeadxDawn]

So, Im still dealing with my f*ckered rear end on my 16 S3.

Im wondering if anyone has the rear clutch assembly part number, newest haldex pump part #, and controller.

Also, if there is any vw/audi parts tech, it would be AWESOME to know what the part numbers are for the pump and clutch assembly on the FL rs3!

Im wondering if theres any change in the FL rs3. I figure if I have to buy everything out of pocket, might as well try to find some kind of upgrade, even if it is oem +

[eurojunkjon]

So, Im still dealing with my f*ckered rear end on my 16 S3.

Im wondering if anyone has the rear clutch assembly part number, newest haldex pump part #, and controller.

Also, if there is any vw/audi parts tech, it would be AWESOME to know what the part numbers are for the pump and clutch assembly on the FL rs3!

Im wondering if theres any change in the FL rs3. I figure if I have to buy everything out of pocket, might as well try to find some kind of upgrade, even if it is oem +


I’m at work right now but I have the work order with part numbers at home I can post when I get off.

[eurojunkjon]

https://imgur.com/8fEplkO.jpeg

[Gusts]

So, Im still dealing with my f*ckered rear end on my 16 S3.

Im wondering if anyone has the rear clutch assembly part number, newest haldex pump part #, and controller.

Also, if there is any vw/audi parts tech, it would be AWESOME to know what the part numbers are for the pump and clutch assembly on the FL rs3!

Im wondering if theres any change in the FL rs3. I figure if I have to buy everything out of pocket, might as well try to find some kind of upgrade, even if it is oem +

Here you go!

121379

121380

[bakedcorn]

Here you go!

121379

121380

When they say they replaced the clutch assembly are they referring to the whole kit and kabuddle - the haldex unit including the controller and pump?


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[VWVW]

Did anyone experience less wheelspin after cleaning the pump screen and replacing the oil?

Like, is it a fix or a preventative measure?

[Gusts]

When they say they replaced the clutch assembly are they referring to the whole kit and kabuddle - the haldex unit including the controller and pump?


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When i googled part# the picture showed a new controller and pump. The controller is definitely new but i am not sure about the pump as the dealer replaced my pump prior to replacing the clutch unit.

[sersanli]

how them found out that is front bevel box? any fault code or weird sound?

Late reply: Very easy, shaft wasn't turning. If shaft turns but the rear wheels don't it means it's the rear diff, if shaft is not turning, it's the front box. It's funny that AD diagnosed it wrong and couldn't find this out :D

No fault code or sound.

[bakedcorn]

Late reply: Very easy, shaft wasn't turning. If shaft turns but the rear wheels don't it means it's the rear diff, if shaft is not turning, it's the front box. It's funny that AD diagnosed it wrong and couldn't find this out :D

No fault code or sound.

Ok dumb ass question, how did they check if the shaft was actually rotating?
[emoji848]


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[DeadxDawn]

eurojunkjon, Gusts, thanks for that! I couldn't find that part #!

Now I can see how much this is gonna cost me in total oof.

[DeadxDawn]

For those clutch assy replacements, did the shop(s) tell you how many labour hours it took?

a front counter person at Audi told me they have to drop the entire rear subframe down to replace it, but that seems off. When I was putting in my exhaust, there's oodles of room with the drive shaft removed.

[MikTip]

https://imgur.com/8fEplkO.jpeg

Interesting to see "Repaired per TSB 2049498/3"

Plus "repair kit" 0CQ-598-549

[eurojunkjon]

For those clutch assy replacements, did the shop(s) tell you how many labour hours it took?

a front counter person at Audi told me they have to drop the entire rear subframe down to replace it, but that seems off. When I was putting in my exhaust, there's oodles of room with the drive shaft removed.

My buddy is the tech that did my car, I shot him a text and he said it took him about 2.5 hrs

[yakev724]

I just purchased a high mileage 2015 S3 and noticed it isn't sending power to the rear wheels.

I'm looking at replacing the entire rear carrier since low-mileage FL examples are only 2-3x the cost of a new pump (and include pump, ECM, etc.) Is there any risk that sourcing one off an A3 will have some hardcoded ECM settings specific to the A3?

If I do replace my entire unit with an A3 carrier, what's the proper procedure after physical replacement? Adaptation/pump priming in VCDS? Take it to Audi and have them run 'basic settings'?

Thanks


Little Update had the car for two weeks at an Audi shop.

Apparently there are four (4) adaptation that need to be run once a controller or rear is replaced none of which can be done on VCDS. The shop had to borrow the ODI computer from Audi to reset the (SVN code) & adaptations and make the newest controller work with the system.

Supposedly all this fixed the problem and I now have AWD again. We will see tonight when I try to launch the car LOL!


I had this same code and here is what the dealer did. My SA and I did the same test prior to the fix and this time the wheels didn’t spin like a FWD Corolla.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=56407&d=1520805412

You might want to try to run the basic settings before any repairs.


My haldex stopped working at around 50k miles. I replaced the haldex pump and fluid (very easy job for any DIYer's) and the problem persisted. Took it to the dealership, explained what happened and what I did to resolve the issue. The transmission ended up having to be reflashed and reprogrammed (my car is completely stock), totaling $147. At 79k miles now and still working like a champ.


I bought S3 2015 last month.

Tried LC, ended with front axle wheelspin like in my previous Leon Cupra FWD.
Took it to Authorised Service, they uploaded new software to haldex, everything works fine now.

[CronicPAIN]

Just got this code on my A3 after i did a launch control no check engine light on but scan with carista and getting this I clear them and they came back

Audi A3 2015 2.0t 53k miles

Any help is this Haldex failure 135104135105

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[MikTip]

Just got this code on my A3 after i did a launch control no check engine light on but scan with carista and getting this I clear them and they came back

Audi A3 2015 2.0t 53k miles

Any help is this Haldex failure 135104135105

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This:

https://imgur.com/8fEplkO.jpeg

Repaired per TSB 2049498/33994190

[CronicPAIN]

This:

https://imgur.com/8fEplkO.jpeg

Repaired per TSB 2049498/33994190But my vehicle is CPO still under warranty for 100k miles it should be covered right I dint have any tune only turbo back and intake and suspension what should i tell the dealer?

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[MikTip]

But my vehicle is CPO still under warranty for 100k miles it should be covered right I dint have any tune only turbo back and intake and suspension what should i tell the dealer?

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Depends on the dealership...some are mod friendly, especially if they provide the mod...many are not...

The dealers who are not will use any mod as a reason to not honor a warranty claim...as it changes the car from its "stock" form...

Idealy...return the car to stock and take to dealership to avoid any issues...

Know any DIY repair Audi guys in your area?

[ns156]

I bought a 2015 A3 from Carmax that had full dealer maintenance records, including the expensive 35,000 mile service, with 34,000 miles. Within a few days, I noticed:

1. Wheelspin during launches, as well as during moderate to hard acceleration while turning. Traction control light flashed with this; turning traction control off and launching produced front wheel slip for 20 yards or so on dry pavement and 30-40 yards on wet pavement. The rear wheels never engaged during high torque applications, but would engage when rolling more gradually on the throttle.
2. Discovered at 34,000 miles
3. 2015 A3 2.0T
4. Independent Audi shop scanned for codes and the haldex pump failure code was found (C111204)
5. CarMax is paying to replace the pump under their warranty

Update a few weeks later: AWD module was throwing a C111307 mechanical malfunction code and spinning the fronts still from launch control. Dealer is now replacing the entire clutch assembly (and possibly the entire Haldex unit, though I'm not sure yet). Total cost is now at $3800 between the two visits, all billed to CarMax.

[Allen254]

recently I noticed my tires would spin out during a hard launch.
took it to Audi still under warranty and well they didn't find any codes but there was a TSB for Haldex pump going out
they replaced it and changed the fluid. something repair kit on the work order.

today it started acting up again, tires burning out during medium or hard launch. Funny thing is it was working for about 2 days the car felt great agin.

what could it be?? has anyone had the same issue after they replaced pump.

[TreizeRXH]

recently I noticed my tires would spin out during a hard launch.
took it to Audi still under warranty and well they didn't find any codes but there was a TSB for Haldex pump going out
they replaced it and changed the fluid. something repair kit on the work order.

today it started acting up again, tires burning out during medium or hard launch. Funny thing is it was working for about 2 days the car felt great agin.

what could it be?? has anyone had the same issue after they replaced pump.

Are you tuned?


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[Allen254]

No stock never tuned.

[Dubfound]

2015
Audi S3
15k miles and 45k miles

Well I have had this issue before and Audi fixed it around 15k miles a yr and half ago on my car. Now at 45k miles only FWD again... They replaced the pump first time. So I will post what the issue is this time. I'm still under CPO so that's good at least.

This is ironically my 2nd 2015 Audi S3 and the other one had no issues with the AWD and I put almost 80k miles on that one.

[Kevin quattro]

Alright now I'm scared. I had no problem with launch control over the summer. The first time I lost traction when I wasn't expecting it was when temps first dropped to about 40 and it was raining. I switched to Michelin alpin pa4s and don't lose traction on regular mashing the throttle. My car is stage 2, w/ tcu tune. I have launch set to 3800 rpms and when it was warm with my summer tires, I would lose a little traction for less than a second then id go. I know I need to lower it to 3600rpm so I can try to get grip. ATM it's burning out in the dry through second gear. I can not do launch control at all. Does this mean my pumps are bad or is it just too much power for cold roads? These tires are supposed to be the best winter performance tires money can buy and they can't handle launch at all. I also just found out the original owner didn't do a haldex flush, so I'm at 51,000 miles on original fluid.

[TreizeRXH]

Best case scenario: Could be a clogged filter on the haldex unit. Start with that first.


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[Kevin quattro]

Best case scenario: Could be a clogged filter on the haldex unit. Start with that first.


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Cool thanks man. I will. I need to take it in for a flush anyway. Just found out the previous owner more than likely did not do it at 35k so fingers crossed. Whatever it is coincided with going stage 2 and cold weather, so it's hard to say until I get someone under there to investigate.

[Dubfound]

2015
Audi S3
15k miles and 45k miles

Well I have had this issue before and Audi fixed it around 15k miles a yr and half ago on my car. Now at 45k miles only FWD again... They replaced the pump first time. So I will post what the issue is this time. I'm still under CPO so that's good at least.

This is ironically my 2nd 2015 Audi S3 and the other one had no issues with the AWD and I put almost 80k miles on that one.

Update they are replacing the pump. Again.

[ENV²]

Curious as to if this happens to RS3 also?

[TreizeRXH]

Curious as to if this happens to RS3 also?

I truly believe this is an issue with tunes. I think the haldex is the weak link in the modding game


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[Hard-Knocks]

I truly believe this is an issue with tunes. I think the haldex is the weak link in the modding game


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Mods may accelerate the occurrence of the haldex issue but I had no mods on my 2015 S3 and had the haldex pump fail.

Fortunately thanks to this forum I was aware of this issue and the symptoms, and mine went out 3 weeks before my warranty expired. Had approximately 45k miles on the car with regular driving. Mine was repaired under warranty. In my opinion, Audi should extend the warranty on this equipment because there obviously is a problem with the design.


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[eurojunkjon]

I truly believe this is an issue with tunes. I think the haldex is the weak link in the modding game


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My haldex clutch failed at 37k and it was completely stock.

[DaHonga]

1. How you discovered you had the issue

Car started up last week and immediately displayed on the dash that "ESC (Stabilization control) was off" and "Hill Assist Unavailable".

2. Mileage

135k km

3. Model year

2015 A3 Technik S-Line

4. Any error codes

I posted the Carista faults below, but the mechanic told me it was a Haldex failure.

5. What was done to fix it, and was it under warranty?

Out of warranty and I posted the quote below (in CAD). Am I being ripped off? Seems like I can get the entire Haldex Pump Repair Kit, Seals and Haldex Fluid from ECS Tuning for under $200 USD.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49092924178_d69e7e1122_c.jpghttps://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49092924138_5d1418892b_c.jpg

[firemanjust1]

1. How you discovered you had the issue

Car started up last week and immediately displayed on the dash that "ESC (Stabilization control) was off" and "Hill Assist Unavailable".

2. Mileage

135k km

3. Model year

2015 A3 Technik S-Line

4. Any error codes

I posted the Carista faults below, but the mechanic told me it was a Haldex failure.

5. What was done to fix it, and was it under warranty?

Out of warranty and I posted the quote below (in CAD). Am I being ripped off? Seems like I can get the entire Haldex Pump Repair Kit, Seals and Haldex Fluid from ECS Tuning for under $200 USD.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49092924178_d69e7e1122_c.jpghttps://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49092924138_5d1418892b_c.jpg

Not sure about the other issues you are having but the only way the pump cost that much is if he is getting it from a Audi dealer and then upcharging. I would ask the shop if you can source the pump directly and save 400.00 $ or go some where else and supply them with the Ecs kit and have them install it. The shop will have to also prime the pump once it is installed so I would make sure they have Vagcom to do the job correctly.

[Serzyfritz]

Those prices for parts seem crazy... Even the Haldex Fluid... OEM for 1 quart is no more then $40 USD which is $53 CAD

ECS has the N82 valve that I assume they are replacing at https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/valve/4h0121671d/ $146.39 which is $194 CAD

[oharao2]

i had mine repaired last month on my 16 s3 with 35k miles after no lights no alerts just front wheel drive symptoms and it had to do with the chip in the rear clutch packs not talking to the rest of the system. the dealership first replaced the pump which didnt fix the symptoms but the rear diff clutch packs replacement solved the problem. My real concern is how long will the darn fix last.

[ns156]

recently I noticed my tires would spin out during a hard launch.
took it to Audi still under warranty and well they didn't find any codes but there was a TSB for Haldex pump going out
they replaced it and changed the fluid. something repair kit on the work order.

today it started acting up again, tires burning out during medium or hard launch. Funny thing is it was working for about 2 days the car felt great agin.

what could it be?? has anyone had the same issue after they replaced pump.

I'm 99% sure what is happening to you is what happened to mine: the pump filter was already blocked with debris long enough that fluid wasn't circulating properly, causing the pump to eventually fail, and the Haldex clutch assembly was then fried from overheating/lack of fluid (it's a wet clutch; poor or no fluid circulation=clutch eats itself).

In my case, they tried replacing the pump first, but the wheelspin and traction control light flashing were still happening. The car was then throwing an error code for a mechanical failure in the AWD system, meaning the clutch had to be replaced. If you have OBDeleven you can look for stored error codes yourself, otherwise you'll have to have the dealer or a shop with VCDS scan for it.

It's like $3500 out of warranty to replace the entire clutch. Fortunately for me, I bought my car from Carmax and they paid for all of it.

[ns156]

I truly believe this is an issue with tunes. I think the haldex is the weak link in the modding game



Wrong. My car was a lease and completely unmodified, and the Haldex pump filter clogged eventually resulting in pump failure and then clutch failure. The problem is Audi didn't make cleaning the pump filter screen part of maintenance, so dealers aren't cleaning this screen when replacing Haldex fluid. The pump eventually clogs entirely and fails. If caught soon enough, the pump can be replaced before the clutch also fails. Most often though, people don't realize there is a problem until the entire Haldex unit has shat itself.

It's idiotic maintenance instructions from VW/Audi that is problem. They mistakenly labeled the pump filter screen as a "lifetime" thing when it isn't at all. Previous generations of Haldex had filters that were replaced when the fluid was changed.

This same problem is happening on the Golf R and S3, which use the same Haldex system as the A3, and similarly did not have cleaning the filter screen listed as part of required maintenance.

[ns156]

Mods may accelerate the occurrence of the haldex issue but I had no mods on my 2015 S3 and had the haldex pump fail.

Fortunately thanks to this forum I was aware of this issue and the symptoms, and mine went out 3 weeks before my warranty expired. Had approximately 45k miles on the car with regular driving. Mine was repaired under warranty. In my opinion, Audi should extend the warranty on this equipment because there obviously is a problem with the design.


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Audi/VW definitely should. They failed to instruct anyone to clear debris from the Haldex pump filter screen/mesh when changing fluid, which eventually becomes clogged if not cleaned. They completely overlooked this step. I can't imagine being told I have to spend $3500-4000 replacing the Haldex unit on a 2-4 year old car because the factory service manual was wrong. It's entirely on them.

[sj9ninety]

Well....it happened.

I started noticing my car lose traction here and there while under sudden, heavy acceleration. I attributed this to wet/cold driving conditions.

I decided to do a test today and the first launch I did spun the front tires. Zero traction. No fault codes.

I know this is irregular as I have a video of my car performing a launch from last summer where there is ZERO spin from the tires.

2016 S3 with 37,500mi (Stock, never tuned)

My car is still under the CPO warranty, and I’ve scheduled an appointment with Audi for 12/30.

I will update after appointment.


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[TreizeRXH]

Well....it happened.

I started noticing my car lose traction here and there while under sudden, heavy acceleration. I attributed this to wet/cold driving conditions.

I decided to do a test today and the first launch I did spun the front tires. Zero traction. No fault codes.

I know this is irregular as I have a video of my car performing a launch from last summer where there is ZERO spin from the tires.

2016 S3 with 37,500mi (Stock, never tuned)

My car is still under the CPO warranty, and I’ve scheduled an appointment with Audi for 12/30.

I will update after appointment.


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Curious if the filter is clogged to hell


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[sj9ninety]

Curious if the filter is clogged to hell


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I had the Haldex serviced at 31,000mi, and the pictures provided by the service tech showed a perfectly clean filter screen.


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[eurojunkjon]

Curious if the filter is clogged to hell


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Mine was also clean when the clutch pack failed

[sj9ninety]

Update: Service advisor has informed me that they have updated the fluid that is used in the Haldex. Therefore, they will flush, clean pump a screen, and refill using new fluid.

Im very skeptical that this will yield any type of positive result. However, I will allow them to go through their necessary process.


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[CJ_008]

Update: Service advisor has informed me that they have updated the fluid that is used in the Haldex. Therefore, they will flush, clean pump a screen, and refill using new fluid.

Im very skeptical that this will yield any type of positive result. However, I will allow them to go through their necessary process.

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You might have considered this, maybe request they complete the service by running basic settings? Here's an earlier post on that:


To prime the pump do the following: with car running, [22] AWD => Basic Settings => Pump Motor. Some have stated they had to pump the motor a number of times before the AWD unit was working correctly. I'd start here first, before losing fluid checking the pump screen.

[sj9ninety]

The car is at the Audi Service Center. Therefore, I will allow them to do their due diligence. They will not return my vehicle to me without successfully repairing the haldex as the vehicle is still under manufacturer's warranty. Thanks for the suggestion!



You might have considered this, maybe request they complete the service by running basic settings? Here's an earlier post on that:

[sj9ninety]

Final update: The Haldex Pump was replaced under warranty.

Performed launch to test awd system and the car rips off the line with zero wheel hop or spin. I can provide the service invoice for anyone who needs.


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[S3_Miles]

Final update: The Haldex Pump was replaced under warranty.

Performed launch to test awd system and the car rips off the line with zero wheel hop or spin. I can provide the service invoice for anyone who needs.


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Can you please send to me so I can see what was performed? I feel like this really needs to be an NHTSA thing at this point

EDIT - Looks like someone has reported it but I think we ALL need to report it to get action - https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2015/AUDI/S3/4%252520DR/AWD#complaints (This happened to be a 2015 Audi S3...my year/make/model)

Submit HERE: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

[sj9ninety]

Can you please send to me so I can see what was performed? I feel like this really needs to be an NHTSA thing at this point

EDIT - Looks like someone has reported it but I think we ALL need to report it to get action - https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2015/AUDI/S3/4%252520DR/AWD#complaints (This happened to be a 2015 Audi S3...my year/make/model)

Submit HERE: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/

Here you go:

160734


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[rdf5186]

Made a appointment at Audi Hunt Valley to have my 15 S3 checked.

Getting wheel spin under launch.... feeling the rear spin more than front but definitely out of the norm.


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[DarthDbo]

**update on my haldax situation **
Okay so... I has having all the normal traction issues stated in this thread. Brought the car into Audi they pretty much blew me off completely, blaming tune, cold weather, and tires.. Said they pulled pump inspected and performed haldax service. So I looked for someone who would help me out. XLR8 performance !! Brought the car to these guys who were absolutely wonderful... pulled everything apart and put it back together.. Turns out Audi broke a clip of some sort and glued it back together, never told me. Not only that they might have very well put the wrong gear oil in the haldax.. causing the clutch not to engage properly or not at all. Car has performed perfectly since it’s visit to XLR8, even in wet conditions and using launch control.

[Kevin quattro]

So my car is at the Audi dealership being checked out right now. When the car is flashed back to stock I don't seem to have the front wheel spin issue. Launch control actually works. I do have very good brand new tires fyi. My car is stage 2 so it's pushing out around 100hp+ over stock. Could it just be I have too much power for the haldex to keep up? They're scanning it now, so I still don't know for sure if there's a problem or not, but if I never went stage 2 I don't think I would've noticed it. I've seen s3's pushing at least this much power using launch control though.

So my question is, are others here able to successfully do launch control at stage 2+? And those that had the issue stock, were you getting front wheel burnouts during launch?

edit: just got the report back. There are no fault codes. Everything is performing as should at stock. That was a surprise to me. Anyone else not able to do full launches at stage 2 with a working haldex and rear diff?

[rbish56]

youre in Michigan its cold and youre running winter performance tires. wait until it gets warmer

[RUIZRUIZDIEGO]

I used to see smoke coming front front tires when using launch control, I remember the needle bouncing of redline once or twice befor shifting in to 2nd and it would feel like ages to get going.

[15S3]

2015 S3 at 66,xxx miles. I'm getting the traction control light flashing when I get on it hard so I'm pretty sure I've got the dreaded failure. Haldex worked fine up until fairly recently. I'm on a Eurodyne stage II tune but I haven't done a full launch since I was running a JB4 though. I changed my haldex fluid at 30,xxx and the screen was perfectly clean so there are other issues going on with some of these haldex units.

[hev702]

2015 S3, 35k miles.
APR Stage 1 ECU and TCU.
Wheel spin under moderate to hard acceleration until 3rd gear.
Launch control seems to be more of a burnout. Car does not move for a second or so and can smell burnt rubber after.
Car is out of warranty so I will have my normal shop take a look.

[15S3]

2015 S3 at 66,xxx miles. I'm getting the traction control light flashing when I get on it hard so I'm pretty sure I've got the dreaded failure. Haldex worked fine up until fairly recently. I'm on a Eurodyne stage II tune but I haven't done a full launch since I was running a JB4 though. I changed my haldex fluid at 30,xxx and the screen was perfectly clean so there are other issues going on with some of these haldex units.
Update, I was unaware that after performing a Haldex service/fluid change you need to re calibrate the pump through VCDS/OBD11. I gave it a shot and voila, it seems to be back to normal. I still need to do a full launch to confirm but it's worth a shot before spending big bucks to get something replaced.

[espo92]

Just wanted to add. I have an A3 Quattro, buddy has a S3. His haldex had issues and he would constantly break traction. He brought it to Audi and it showed no problems, but after getting an idea of replacement cost, we decided to try the OBDeleven test/prime of the pump. We put it up on ramps, and tried it. After 2 of those, and a full clear of the AWD controller codes. Since then, his has been working great. Just something to try for anyone else who may have these issues.

[15S3]

Just wanted to add. I have an A3 Quattro, buddy has a S3. His haldex had issues and he would constantly break traction. He brought it to Audi and it showed no problems, but after getting an idea of replacement cost, we decided to try the OBDeleven test/prime of the pump. We put it up on ramps, and tried it. After 2 of those, and a full clear of the AWD controller codes. Since then, his has been working great. Just something to try for anyone else who may have these issues.

I tried to test/prime the pump with OBDeleven and didn't have any luck. VCDS worked like a charm, ymmv.

[hev702]

Not sure if I overpaid and/or had too much work done.

Had all fluids replaced, haldex pump and rear differential replaced. A bit over $2,000 later and the car is finally fixed.

[JimmyS3]

1. How you discovered you had the issue

started to get more wheel spin in wet tried to just replace pump and fluid. On drain found debris in the oil.

2. Mileage
38,700

3. Model year
2015 Audi S3

4. Any error codes
C111307

5. What was done to fix it, and was it under warranty? I hear they are replacing the units with the ones from 2017's?
found used rear getting replaced

[cdavis3]

I am looking to buy a used 16 s3 with around 26,000 miles on it. Anyway I can make sure I don't get screwed buying one with this issue or is there anything I can do to prevent this?

[TreizeRXH]

I am looking to buy a used 16 s3 with around 26,000 miles on it. Anyway I can make sure I don't get screwed buying one with this issue or is there anything I can do to prevent this?

3 words: PRE PURCHASE INSPECTION


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[ralphie_43]

I am looking to buy a used 16 s3 with around 26,000 miles on it. Anyway I can make sure I don't get screwed buying one with this issue or is there anything I can do to prevent this?

What I did was launch the car and if it spins it’s bad I told themI want the car and I’d go through with the deal as long as they replaced the pump and I test drove it to make sure it was fixed before I took it home. My dealer complied and I got the Haldex fixed


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[TheExile]

I remember I started to have this issue on my 15 A3 before I sold it. Anyone with 17+ A3's having this issue? Doubt there was a pump revision with the facelift unless I missed it when I was reading through. Curious since I'm fueling the idea of buying another A3 but the facelift MY17+

[XMetal]

Just wanted to add. I have an A3 Quattro, buddy has a S3. His haldex had issues and he would constantly break traction. He brought it to Audi and it showed no problems, but after getting an idea of replacement cost, we decided to try the OBDeleven test/prime of the pump. We put it up on ramps, and tried it. After 2 of those, and a full clear of the AWD controller codes. Since then, his has been working great. Just something to try for anyone else who may have these issues.


I tried to test/prime the pump with OBDeleven and didn't have any luck. VCDS worked like a charm, ymmv.

What's the procedure for test/prime the pump with OBDeleven? Thanks.

[hman991]

For anyone that replaced the Haldex pump did that fix the traction issue when putting down power immediately or did it take a couple days after putting the new one in?

[hman991]

Did you replace the Halex or the rear diff?

[hev702]

For most, the Haldex alone fixed the traction issue. I replaced both haldex and rear diff. I had a lot of metal flakes in the fluid though.

[rex_racer]

For anyone that replaced the Haldex pump did that fix the traction issue when putting down power immediately or did it take a couple days after putting the new one in?

When replacing the pump, the pump needs to be primed before it can be expected to activate normally. This requires the use of the OEM ODIS tool, VCDS, or the other mobile scanner tool.

[Davethaboss]

When replacing the pump, the pump needs to be primed before it can be expected to activate normally. This requires the use of the OEM ODIS tool, VCDS, or the other mobile scanner tool.I have a question. I have done a whole host of operations.

I know for a fact my haldex is working properly because I can see its current draw and degree of blockage.

Here's my very dumb and simple question.

When I launch the car I get a very brief and split second moment of my tires spinning. Is something wrong with my haldex? Shouldn't every launch have 0 wheel spin?

I changed my haldex fluid, cleaned filter, cleaned inside of housing, and primed the pump like twice.

I am stage 1+ and put brand new pilot sport 4 s on the car.

Does this same thing happen to everyone else as well?



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[firemanjust1]

Even with new tires when I launch I get about 1-2 revolutions of wheel spin its normal. I had a issue with my haldex pump around 20k ago and you will def know when your haldex is not working it's spin city from 1-2 and even 3rd gear roll. That is how I understand haldex works fronts spin rear engage I would not worry about it tuned. Now if you were stock and having wheelspin that's totally different.

[XMetal]

Damn...add me to the list of Haldex failure [wrench] Looks like I'll be needing a pump replacement on my next dealer warranty visit. Noticed a lot of traction issues recently, even just getting moving from a stoplight and did a scan only to find this [headbang] Car's only got about 21k easy miles [facepalm]

184914

[rex_racer]

I have a question. I have done a whole host of operations.

I know for a fact my haldex is working properly because I can see its current draw and degree of blockage.

Here's my very dumb and simple question.

When I launch the car I get a very brief and split second moment of my tires spinning. Is something wrong with my haldex? Shouldn't every launch have 0 wheel spin?

I changed my haldex fluid, cleaned filter, cleaned inside of housing, and primed the pump like twice.

I am stage 1+ and put brand new pilot sport 4 s on the car.

Does this same thing happen to everyone else as well?



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Sounds normal. You'll get a touch of spin before the rears really kick in and take over. Keep in mind this is also saving your drivetrain by letting a little wheel slip occur.

[MikTip]

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9359341-Who-s-had-VW-quot-update-their-Haldex-software&p=114315343&viewfull=1#post114315343

[Davethaboss]

Sounds normal. You'll get a touch of spin before the rears really kick in and take over. Keep in mind this is also saving your drivetrain by letting a little wheel slip occur.Let me also add that after installing the 034 Dogbone mount insert that the car now launches extremely smoothly.

It is amazing how much of a difference it has made. I launched it 5 times that day and the difference was night and day.

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[JOaks24]

I have a 15 S3. I started noticing the traction light come on recently as i accelerated, i just moved and the roads aren't great and always have dirt and gravel. I decided to test launch mode, talk about a smoke show. Rears never kicked on. I have a toddler with me 75% of the time so i really don't drive the car as i intended when i first purchased. I am out of the standard warranty just barely, but have the CPO still. The dealership i went to told me the CPO is at their discretion, and it would depend on how many times i have launched and other factors when they scan ecu. They ultimately said they would not fix, and quoted me $5600. Does this sound right? CPO doesnt cover when they dont want to. Im stock except for intake and DP. Have only launched the car maybe 10 times in 5 years.

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[hev702]

I have a 15 S3. I started noticing the traction light come on recently as i accelerated, i just moved and the roads aren't great and always have dirt and gravel. I decided to test launch mode, talk about a smoke show. Rears never kicked on. I have a toddler with me 75% of the time so i really don't drive the car as i intended when i first purchased. I am out of the standard warranty just barely, but have the CPO still. The dealership i went to told me the CPO is at their discretion, and it would depend on how many times i have launched and other factors when they scan ecu. They ultimately said they would not fix, and quoted me $5600. Does this sound right? CPO doesnt cover when they dont want to. Im stock except for intake and DP. Have only launched the car maybe 10 times in 5 years.

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$5600? Definitely not. What did they say was wrong with it? I would also check all the details of your CPO contract. I haven’t purchased a car from an Audi dealer, but the AWD system on an AWD car is a pretty big deal, especially for such a small amount of launches.

[JimmyS3]

When I had to replace the whole rear we called Audi they have me a quote of $3200 for the whole rear...

I found a low mileage used one and got a 12 month/ 12k mile warranty on it for $600.

My pump stopped working and everything inside died. Fluid had metal/ debris in it.

Good luck.

[hev702]

I had the rear differential and pump replaced for around $2k. Same as above, Metal and debris in the fluid.

[JOaks24]

I thought that seemed high. I'm gonna try another dealership this week and see what they say. Second question i have though. If I choose not to fix, will it do any additional damage to car, or is it basically just a fwd car now? Seems like a lot of people have been posting they've bought cars with this issue. I'm not planning on having too much longer, i need something bigger.

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[hev702]

I thought that seemed high. I'm gonna try another dealership this week and see what they say. Second question i have though. If I choose not to fix, will it do any additional damage to car, or is it basically just a fwd car now? Seems like a lot of people have been posting they've bought cars with this issue. I'm not planning on having too much longer, i need something bigger.

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If you aren't going to have it for much longer, I wouldn't bother fixing it. I don't believe it would cause any further damage, like you said, just FWD. Unless you have a ton of shavings in your fluid

[da3id]

1. Honestly noticed a ton of wheelspin/wheel hop for the past 1-2 years but never really thought much of it. Until I raced a buddy in a GTI and he beat me off the line lol
2. Car currently has 104,000km but problem was probably noticed around 75,000km
3. 2015 A3 2.0T S-Line
4. After doing a lauch with LC, I scanned the car and got a AWD code 16670 which is different from the pump failure code 16671
5. Didnt want to buy new pump because car wasnt under warranty, so I found a solution which was to use VAG-COM and do a Haldex Pump "Pump Motor" test and reset. I guess when there is blockage in the haldex filter the system automatically reduces the voltage and pressure of the unit, causing it to not engage. After getting a well needed fluid change and playing around with the VAG-COM, I did the test and BOOM, AWD was kicking in perfectly. Feels amazing to finally have quattro and thank goodness it didnt cost me big bucks.

[KitS3]

Thank you for the thread. Purchased a 2016 S3 last year and did notice that no power was going to the rear.

Did not have time until a year after (made sure to have it checked before my extended warranty was over) to have it checked. At first the dealer said it was normal but again , with the info I got from here , explained the whole situation to them and did a few test with their lead tech.

He was still unsure of the issue and at first tried to blame the tires but after leaving the car for two days, they got back to me and told me they will be replacing the rear differential and propeller shaft under warranty.

Oddly enough, they told me that when the parts arrive, they will replace these two parts and if it doesn’t fix the issue “the at least you get a new differential”.

I based in the Middle East and the service manager was proud to say that we are spending 10k usd for you to fix this and you should be happy regardless.

Anyway , hope it fixes the issue.

If they do replace the whole differential, does this come with a new haldex pump ?

[XMetal]

Damn...add me to the list of Haldex failure [wrench] Looks like I'll be needing a pump replacement on my next dealer warranty visit. Noticed a lot of traction issues recently, even just getting moving from a stoplight and did a scan only to find this [headbang] Car's only got about 21k easy miles [facepalm]

184914

Got my faulty Haldex pump replaced under TSB #2043144/7 and coincidentally found a good AWD heath indicator! I started a thread about my G-Meter working intermittently and ultimately completely nonoperational at the same time that my AWD was acting up => https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/898952-G-Meter-is-intermittent?p=14234023#post14234023

After getting the Haldex pump replaced and got my AWD working again, coincidentally, the G-Meter started being fully functional again. The G-Meter appeared to be tied to the AWD system - So, if are able to get your G-Meter to be displayed on your VC and it's non-functional, then it's a good chance that you are only operating in FWD.

[949]

2015 s3
im starting to notice the front wheel spin.

im curious if my dsg tune has something to do with it?
scan shows nothing wrong with the awd.

[949]

So my car is at the Audi dealership being checked out right now. When the car is flashed back to stock I don't seem to have the front wheel spin issue. Launch control actually works. I do have very good brand new tires fyi. My car is stage 2 so it's pushing out around 100hp+ over stock. Could it just be I have too much power for the haldex to keep up? They're scanning it now, so I still don't know for sure if there's a problem or not, but if I never went stage 2 I don't think I would've noticed it. I've seen s3's pushing at least this much power using launch control though.

So my question is, are others here able to successfully do launch control at stage 2+? And those that had the issue stock, were you getting front wheel burnouts during launch?

edit: just got the report back. There are no fault codes. Everything is performing as should at stock. That was a surprise to me. Anyone else not able to do full launches at stage 2 with a working haldex and rear diff?

do you have the dsg tune?

[VWVW]

Just to also add this info to this compiled thread from another thread...


I have had my Haldex pump replaced twice in 5 years of ownership.

The first time under warranty with a fault during a diagnostic scan.

The second time out of pocket without a fault during a diagnostic scan. Prior to replacement, I have had oil change and filter cleaned to see if they would help, but they didn't. I then sent the car in for inspection and they did a scan (no fault) and thorough inspection and pinpointed that the pump was only working intermittently (the explanation given was that pump wasn't completely dead so no fault code, but not functional anymore). After the replacement, the car is AWD again. BTW, Audi has an official technical bulletin to replace the original Haldex oil with an improved oil and it contains the diagnostic methods. I recommend you ask the Audi shop to follow that.

Hope this helps.

[Auditude437]

Just to also add this info to this compiled thread from another thread...


I have had my Haldex pump replaced twice in 5 years of ownership.

The first time under warranty with a fault during a diagnostic scan.

The second time out of pocket without a fault during a diagnostic scan. Prior to replacement, I have had oil change and filter cleaned to see if they would help, but they didn't. I then sent the car in for inspection and they did a scan (no fault) and thorough inspection and pinpointed that the pump was only working intermittently (the explanation given was that pump wasn't completely dead so no fault code, but not functional anymore). After the replacement, the car is AWD again. BTW, Audi has an official technical bulletin to replace the original Haldex oil with an improved oil and it contains the diagnostic methods. I recommend you ask the Audi shop to follow that.

Hope this helps.


Dang, I'm so bummed to hear all of this. I was thinking about picking up a 2017+ A3 as a daily. I have a weekend S5 car so I don't think I really need AWD for DD purposes, but it would've definitely been nice to have the power bump and AWD. If you were in my position, would it be worth to just get the FWD to avoid these headaches?

[Davethaboss]

Got my faulty Haldex pump replaced under TSB #2043144/7 and coincidentally found a good AWD heath indicator! I started a thread about my G-Meter working intermittently and ultimately completely nonoperational at the same time that my AWD was acting up => https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/898952-G-Meter-is-intermittent?p=14234023#post14234023

After getting the Haldex pump replaced and got my AWD working again, coincidentally, the G-Meter started being fully functional again. The G-Meter appeared to be tied to the AWD system - So, if are able to get your G-Meter to be displayed on your VC and it's non-functional, then it's a good chance that you are only operating in FWD.Hello.

I just had the same error come up. No idea why. When I replaced my haldex fluid the filter looked REALLY good. I even cleaned the inside of the pump housing.

I can clear the fault when the battery is on. Turn the car on and I can still see live data from the pump and clutch. For some reason after like 15 seconds everything goes to 0 and I can not read the data off the pump anymore. It's not even long enough for me to get out of my driveway and start driving to see if I am getting any values.

I also tried pumping the motor. I was met with error 22 marginal conditions not met and then I tried resetting all adaptation values and tried doing the same procedure to no effect.

Does anyone know of a way to pump the motor despite faults? I can not find a way to do it for some reason. I have tried what feels like everything and I find it hard to believe the pump failed seeing as I literally did the fluid change back on June 23rd of this year.

Only things worth mentioning are that my XDS interaction is set to Medium (done a couple months ago), I have a Stage 1TCU tune (done back on November 2019), and a Stage 1+ ECU tune.

Any ideas? I do not think anyone here had a pump fail after 3 months of changing it's fluid, filter, and housing LOL.

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[MnHotrod]

Hello, I've been experiencing an issue, and I'm not sure I can nail it down to the Haldex yet. Whatever is the issue, it is causing the Haldex to act up.

Whenever my car is started from being shutoff for five minutes or more, I experience a chattering vibration for a a second or two when I hit speeds above 40mph. The vibration is amplified if I pull onto the highway within 1/8th mile of start up. The vibration is short, maybe 1-2 seconds. When the car vibrates, it usually pulls to the right. If the roads are wet, the car becomes quite lose when the vibration occurs. At lower speeds, with corners involved, the issue twice. The issue is most apparent on the highway. It consistantly has the issue four times over the course of two miles, then goes away until the next start up.

I purchased a VCDS from Ross-Tech to log the issue. For now I am logging HALDEX CLUTCH STATUS-DEGREE OF BLOCKAGE, HALDEX CLUTCH PUMP CURRENT, HALDEX CLUTCH PUMP PWM SIGNAL and HALDEX CLUTCH PUMP VOLTAGE. I will attach a graph below.

https://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/rs3-log.PNG (https://www.audizine.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=97083&title=rs3-haldex-log&cat=500)

There may be other things I should be logging. If anyone has suggestions on what to log, please feel free to express your ideas.

[MrZeeMan]

Augh. I bought my S3 used with 41k miles 37 days ago w/ a third-party warranty. I suspected that the car wasn't working as intended (front tires spin a lot when gassing it). So I tried launch control for the first time and all it did was spin the front tires and went nowhere. I took the car to the dealership and was quoted $8925 for a new rear differential repair. The third-party warranty is denying this claim because they blame the dealership... I hope this gets resolved without me spending any money. :(

[Auditude437]

Augh. I bought my S3 used with 41k miles 37 days ago w/ a third-party warranty. I suspected that the car wasn't working as intended (front tires spin a lot when gassing it). So I tried launch control for the first time and all it did was spin the front tires and went nowhere. I took the car to the dealership and was quoted $8925 for a new rear differential repair. The third-party warranty is denying this claim because they blame the dealership... I hope this gets resolved without me spending any money. :(

Holy S$%T. Sorry to hear that man. What year is your S3? Doesn't the the manufacturer warranty last until 50,000 miles?

[XMetal]

Hello.

I just had the same error come up. No idea why. When I replaced my haldex fluid the filter looked REALLY good. I even cleaned the inside of the pump housing.

I can clear the fault when the battery is on. Turn the car on and I can still see live data from the pump and clutch. For some reason after like 15 seconds everything goes to 0 and I can not read the data off the pump anymore. It's not even long enough for me to get out of my driveway and start driving to see if I am getting any values.

I also tried pumping the motor. I was met with error 22 marginal conditions not met and then I tried resetting all adaptation values and tried doing the same procedure to no effect.

Does anyone know of a way to pump the motor despite faults? I can not find a way to do it for some reason. I have tried what feels like everything and I find it hard to believe the pump failed seeing as I literally did the fluid change back on June 23rd of this year.

Only things worth mentioning are that my XDS interaction is set to Medium (done a couple months ago), I have a Stage 1TCU tune (done back on November 2019), and a Stage 1+ ECU tune.

Any ideas? I do not think anyone here had a pump fail after 3 months of changing it's fluid, filter, and housing LOL.

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If you got the same error, then 99.9% is a faulty pump.

[Davethaboss]

If you got the same error, then 99.9% is a faulty pump.I hear you man it just seems insane to me it would break after intensive cleaning that I did 3 months ago. I am really against waste and I hate replacing parts that can be fixed in unorthodox ways.

I have seen on this thread people were running the basic setting [pump motor] in 22 - AWD despite having faults. Do you know what criteria I have to meet to do the same? Some folks here and over in the UK have fixed their problems by doing this. For some reason, even after the fault is cleared and does not come back after 10 tries of me refreshing the OBDEleven Control Units page, it still hit me with the error [22] marginal conditions not met. I also foolishly (is it idk? I started getting annoyed haha) hit the [resetting of all adaptation values] in the hopes of running the pump motor basic setting.

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[VWVW]

Dang, I'm so bummed to hear all of this. I was thinking about picking up a 2017+ A3 as a daily. I have a weekend S5 car so I don't think I really need AWD for DD purposes, but it would've definitely been nice to have the power bump and AWD. If you were in my position, would it be worth to just get the FWD to avoid these headaches?

If I were you, I would still get the AWD. The difference between AWD and FWD is huge. If it fails, you will get a FWD A3 with more power and you can judget at that point, whether to fix it to get your AWD back. :)

[TreizeRXH]

If I were you, I would still get the AWD. The difference between AWD and FWD is huge. If it fails, you will get a FWD A3 with more power and you can judget at that point, whether to fix it to get your AWD back. :)


If I were you, I would still get the AWD. The difference between AWD and FWD is huge. If it fails, you will get a FWD A3 with more power and you can judget at that point, whether to fix it to get your AWD back. :)

Like he said, AWD or nothing

I’ve owned 3 MQB A3’s now
1.) wife’s black 1.8tA3 S-line with 19’ rims and sport suspension
2.) My monsoon grey A3 2.0t quattro
3.) My current Ara Blue S3

Her 1.8t was a great handling car but always just felt a little anemic and underpowered (we live in south Florida where it’s mostly highway driving at speeds of 75+). But it always did look good in that black paint job

My 2.0t quattro fixed all the complaints I had about her car and exposed me to just how incredible a vehicle with an awd system could handle. I actually planned on keeping it because I always felt it was the perfect balance of performance and practicality

Then enter the S3 lol.... this thing is a god damn riot and I absolutely love it. It’s everything the 2.0t quattro is but on steroids. I pulled the trigger on this because it was my dream car and the deal was too good to pass up but I was completely content with my monsoon grey quattro 2.0t setup.

So yeah, go for the awd; it’s what Audi is famous for and it really makes difference.

Here they are for your viewing pleasure
First, wife’s A3 in front of my then GLI (Great car btw)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201002/4ca09d27563224047dbe111798e882e9.jpg
Now, in the interest of expediency, here’s my now old monsoon grey A3 quattro next to my new(ish) S3[emoji51]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201002/547cd55a676f0ba0ea156327770c0605.jpg


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[Davethaboss]

Quick question for everyone.

I just installed a new pump. Ran the pump via basic settings. Drove it around and it felt good. Plenty of power being sent to the rear wheels. I did this two days ago.

I got in the car today and I instantly noticed the rear wheels felt like they were dragging. It made this thump, thump, thump sound when turning the wheel all the way to the right or left.

I open the haldex clutch via output test and start driving and the sound is completely gone. The drive is very smooth. It is almost as if the clutch is locking when I go all the way to the left or right in any given direction. A unique observation is that when the steering wheel is turned ALL the way to the left/right the rear wheels move a tiny bit which results in that really weird noise as if metal is being stretched or something. This problem does not occur AT ALL when driving straight or even slightly left or slightly right.

Does this pump need additional programming to work? Is my rear differential completely screwed? What am I missing here?

Also worth noting, I have 0 error codes or fault codes.

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[VWVW]

Like he said, AWD or nothing

I’ve owned 3 MQB A3’s now
1.) wife’s black 1.8tA3 S-line with 19’ rims and sport suspension
2.) My monsoon grey A3 2.0t quattro
3.) My current Ara Blue S3

Her 1.8t was a great handling car but always just felt a little anemic and underpowered (we live in south Florida where it’s mostly highway driving at speeds of 75+). But it always did look good in that black paint job

My 2.0t quattro fixed all the complaints I had about her car and exposed me to just how incredible a vehicle with an awd system could handle. I actually planned on keeping it because I always felt it was the perfect balance of performance and practicality

Then enter the S3 lol.... this thing is a god damn riot and I absolutely love it. It’s everything the 2.0t quattro is but on steroids. I pulled the trigger on this because it was my dream car and the deal was too good to pass up but I was completely content with my monsoon grey quattro 2.0t setup.

So yeah, go for the awd; it’s what Audi is famous for and it really makes difference.

Here they are for your viewing pleasure
First, wife’s A3 in front of my then GLI (Great car btw)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201002/4ca09d27563224047dbe111798e882e9.jpg
Now, in the interest of expediency, here’s my now old monsoon grey A3 quattro next to my new(ish) S3[emoji51]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201002/547cd55a676f0ba0ea156327770c0605.jpg


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Nice collection!

Just curious, why didn't you give your wife the A3 2.0T Quattro and trade in the 1.8T to your S3 instead?

[xander3zero]

Not a lot of ppl posting what year their car is, I have heard facelift ('17+) have less issues - any truth to this?

Also are all these haldex issues covered by original factory warranty, and CPO warranty as well?

I have a '17 S3 with 22k miles coming to me - approx 1 year left on factory warranty and then an additional 1 year from the CPO. Hoping I got a good one.

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[XMetal]

Not a lot of ppl posting what year their car is, I have heard facelift ('17+) have less issues - any truth to this?

Also are all these haldex issues covered by original factory warranty, and CPO warranty as well?

I have a '17 S3 with 22k miles coming to me - approx 1 year left on factory warranty and then an additional 1 year from the CPO. Hoping I got a good one.

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Mine is 2018 and the pump failed at approx. 20k miles. The original warranty covered it. Not sure about CPO - you'll need to read that fine print.

[xander3zero]

Mine is 2018 and the pump failed at approx. 20k miles. The original warranty covered it. Not sure about CPO - you'll need to read that fine print.Thanks for the info. CPO is just a factory extension so I can't imagine it wouldn't cover that but who knows.

I guess there's no reason for me to prematurely worry about it.

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[tewill]

1. Dealership discovered it at 30K service. I had noticed occasional wheel spin from a standstill, but I thought it was because all four tires need to be replaced.
2. 22,477
3. 2018 S3
4. C111204: Haldex clutch pump faulty
5. Pump replaced under original warranty

I’m the original owner and for the most part drive my S3 pretty conservatively; I haven’t launched it. The car is completely stock.

Is the only way to know if the replaced pump has fixed any issues with my Haldex to launch and see how much front wheel spin I get? From reading through this thread, it seems some have had issues with their rear differential but there weren’t error codes? I’m now concerned there could be more issues that the dealership didn’t discover. Thx!

[hev702]

My rear dif was part of the issue. There was metal shavings in the fluid and very loud thud noise on launches. Forgot the exact code but it was AWD malfunction code. I just did a launch to see if it was fixed and it was a night and day difference. Haven’t checked fluid since but also haven’t had any traction issues either.

[Burton089]

2015 Audi A3 2.0T 47k miles currently
1. Noticed wheel spin during launch control or when flooring it in 2nd gear
2. Noticed first around 37k miles
3. 2015
4. AWD Mechanical error showed on obd11
5. At 37k miles the changed haldex fluid for second time and this rough awd back to life for 3 weeks to a month. Turned car stage 1 APR ECU and TCU thinking all was well but no. Awd worked for a little while then quit entirely. Took car back into dealership last week to fix and turns out metal shavings in haldex fluid and car needed a new entire rear differential.

$3,400 total for rear differential replacement out of pocket warranty expired. Car is working phenomenally now.


Does anyone know if there is something that abuses the haldex clutch? Is this a defective part situation? Or aside from cleaning the filter during haldex fluid changes is there something that damages these clutches? No way I’m coughing up this kinda of money a second time down the road. So just want to do whatever I can to ensure the longevity of the new rear differential.

[JimmyS3]

It's definitely alot of money, I was lucky to find a good used one low miles and a warranty on. Still was $1500.

[Burton089]

1. Dealership discovered it at 30K service. I had noticed occasional wheel spin from a standstill, but I thought it was because all four tires need to be replaced.
2. 22,477
3. 2018 S3
4. C111204: Haldex clutch pump faulty
5. Pump replaced under original warranty

I’m the original owner and for the most part drive my S3 pretty conservatively; I haven’t launched it. The car is completely stock.

Is the only way to know if the replaced pump has fixed any issues with my Haldex to launch and see how much front wheel spin I get? From reading through this thread, it seems some have had issues with their rear differential but there weren’t error codes? I’m now concerned there could be more issues that the dealership didn’t discover. Thx!


From experience you will absolutely be able to tell if you launch the car. If the haldex is working properly, you’ll hear no very little, like two revolutions of wheel spin or non at all. If it’s not working you’ll know. It will be burnout city. All the way through if on second gear some of third even if it’s not a great surface. Good luck brother

[MrZeeMan]

I bought my car at 40k miles and had a feeling a few weeks after I purchased it that the rear wheels were not working. Even accelerating at a stop hard chirps the tires. I tried launched control once and all it did was spin and went no where. Took it to the dealership and said it needed a new rear diff @ $9k. Since I had a 3rd party warranty, they didn't want to cover it and asked that I bring it to the independent dealership that I bought it from. Independent dealership found nothing wrong with it but cleaned out the pump and filter. 31 days later I got my car back but nothing was changed. Launch control still spun and I spin tires from a stop.

Tried the ODB11 pump motor and reset adaptations method and voila, no more chirping and the far feels much faster off the line.

Internet knowledge > dealerships.

[XMetal]

I bought my car at 40k miles and had a feeling a few weeks after I purchased it that the rear wheels were not working. Even accelerating at a stop hard chirps the tires. I tried launched control once and all it did was spin and went no where. Took it to the dealership and said it needed a new rear diff @ $9k. Since I had a 3rd party warranty, they didn't want to cover it and asked that I bring it to the independent dealership that I bought it from. Independent dealership found nothing wrong with it but cleaned out the pump and filter. 31 days later I got my car back but nothing was changed. Launch control still spun and I spin tires from a stop.

Tried the ODB11 pump motor and reset adaptations method and voila, no more chirping and the far feels much faster off the line.

Internet knowledge > dealerships.

If you don't mind, can you please summarize and provide details as what/how you did with OBD11 pump motor and reset adaptations method? Thanks.

[Davethaboss]

If you don't mind, can you please summarize and provide details as what/how you did with OBD11 pump motor and reset adaptations method? Thanks.I love how no one asks me this question after changing my pump 3 times and learning you can force a faulty pump to prime by halting the procedure by spinning one of the rear tires when it's on jacks and dropping it down and running the pump afterwards.

Are you on VCDS or OBDEleven?

"OBD11" can mean Carista, normal scan tool, etc...

The procedure in VCDS compared to OBDEleven is different. That's why I am asking.

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[XMetal]

I love how no one asks me this question after changing my pump 3 times and learning you can force a faulty pump to prime by halting the procedure by spinning one of the rear tires when it's on jacks and dropping it down and running the pump afterwards.

Are you on VCDS or OBDEleven?

"OBD11" can mean Carista, normal scan tool, etc...

The procedure in VCDS compared to OBDEleven is different. That's why I am asking.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

I thought OBD11 = OBDEleven? It's OBDII that can mean anything. Anyway - OBDEleven pump reset procedure would greatly be appreciated - for my future reference when my pump does fail again. Thanks.

[Davethaboss]

I thought OBD11 = OBDEleven? It's OBDII that can mean anything. Anyway - OBDEleven pump reset procedure would greatly be appreciated - for my future reference when my pump does fail again. Thanks.I've seen people write OBD11 and mean OBDII and then they say I gave them wrong instructions because Carista does not let them do what VCDS can.

Anyways.

First things first.

If you enable GMeter is it frozen? If the GMeter is frozen and not working that implies Haldex Controller has detected a fault. Using GMeter is the easiest visual way of seeing if you have a faulty pump.

I assume you are past this stage now.

Make sure the car is level. (This sounds silly but, during my trial and error I learned if the car isn't level that the haldex clutch will not actuate fast enough or it will not apply enough pressure resulting in the rear wheels dragging. This would make sense because, it's probably taking a measurement of different sensors during the re-learn process.)

Please go to [22] - AWD and then go to basic settings and hit "Pump Motor." Then go to the "pump motor" section and select "all adaptations values." Make sure to press and hold the check mark at the bottom right. You MUST wait at least 30 seconds. I promise you that you will hear the motor run and it will purge the system a couple times during the re-learn process.

OBDEleven takes more time than VCDS for some reason. Not sure why but, I think it has do with VCDS' specific output sequence which involves closing and opening the diff, resetting adaptations, pumping the motor, etc... in a short period of time.

I do not know the procedure perfectly but, I have kind of guessed what it is through trial and error. The automotive industry is a fucking joke and they are by far the biggest gatekeepers around.

If you have further problems or the motor does not run let me know.

There are next steps after that.

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[XMetal]

Thanks for the detailed response - very much appreciated!


I've seen people write OBD11 and mean OBDII and then they say I gave them wrong instructions because Carista does not let them do what VCDS can.

Anyways.

First things first.

If you enable GMeter is it frozen? If the GMeter is frozen and not working that implies Haldex Controller has detected a fault. Using GMeter is the easiest visual way of seeing if you have a faulty pump.

I assume you are past this stage now.

Make sure the car is level. (This sounds silly but, during my trial and error I learned if the car isn't level that the haldex clutch will not actuate fast enough or it will not apply enough pressure resulting in the rear wheels dragging. This would make sense because, it's probably taking a measurement of different sensors during the re-learn process.)

Please go to [22] - AWD and then go to basic settings and hit "Pump Motor." Then go to the "pump motor" section and select "all adaptations values." Make sure to press and hold the check mark at the bottom right. You MUST wait at least 30 seconds. I promise you that you will hear the motor run and it will purge the system a couple times during the re-learn process.

OBDEleven takes more time than VCDS for some reason. Not sure why but, I think it has do with VCDS' specific output sequence which involves closing and opening the diff, resetting adaptations, pumping the motor, etc... in a short period of time.

I do not know the procedure perfectly but, I have kind of guessed what it is through trial and error. The automotive industry is a fucking joke and they are by far the biggest gatekeepers around.

If you have further problems or the motor does not run let me know.

There are next steps after that.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

[MrZeeMan]

I've seen people write OBD11 and mean OBDII and then they say I gave them wrong instructions because Carista does not let them do what VCDS can.

Anyways.

First things first.

If you enable GMeter is it frozen? If the GMeter is frozen and not working that implies Haldex Controller has detected a fault. Using GMeter is the easiest visual way of seeing if you have a faulty pump.

I assume you are past this stage now.

Make sure the car is level. (This sounds silly but, during my trial and error I learned if the car isn't level that the haldex clutch will not actuate fast enough or it will not apply enough pressure resulting in the rear wheels dragging. This would make sense because, it's probably taking a measurement of different sensors during the re-learn process.)

Please go to [22] - AWD and then go to basic settings and hit "Pump Motor." Then go to the "pump motor" section and select "all adaptations values." Make sure to press and hold the check mark at the bottom right. You MUST wait at least 30 seconds. I promise you that you will hear the motor run and it will purge the system a couple times during the re-learn process.

OBDEleven takes more time than VCDS for some reason. Not sure why but, I think it has do with VCDS' specific output sequence which involves closing and opening the diff, resetting adaptations, pumping the motor, etc... in a short period of time.

I do not know the procedure perfectly but, I have kind of guessed what it is through trial and error. The automotive industry is a fucking joke and they are by far the biggest gatekeepers around.

If you have further problems or the motor does not run let me know.

There are next steps after that.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

What he has stated is absolutely true. After 2 months of battling with the audi dealership, 3rd party warranty, and the independent shop that I fought with, I've learned my lesson and I'm going to trust my knowledge of the true experts: people here who have collective knowledge of this car.

[steve111b]

So my G meter was frozen and the Haldex did not work. I have read a lot of information about the Haldex and I have never heard about a frozen G meter pointing to a failed Haldex. The technician discovered a poor connection to the pump and ran the rear wheels with the car on the lift after repairing the connection. I asked about doing a pump relearn/adaptation and he said he could not find this feature in VCDS. Maybe disconnecting and reconnecting the pump forced a relearn procedure on the pump. The Haldex was serviced (clean screen) a couple of weeks prior and did work for a few days.

[XMetal]

I didn't know the G meter was related to Haldex until it happened to me a few months ago => https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/898952-G-Meter-is-intermittent


So my G meter was frozen and the Haldex did not work. I have read a lot of information about the Haldex and I have never heard about a frozen G meter pointing to a failed Haldex. The technician discovered a poor connection to the pump and ran the rear wheels with the car on the lift after repairing the connection. I asked about doing a pump relearn/adaptation and he said he could not find this feature in VCDS. Maybe disconnecting and reconnecting the pump forced a relearn procedure on the pump. The Haldex was serviced (clean screen) a couple of weeks prior and did work for a few days.

[Davethaboss]

So my G meter was frozen and the Haldex did not work. I have read a lot of information about the Haldex and I have never heard about a frozen G meter pointing to a failed Haldex. The technician discovered a poor connection to the pump and ran the rear wheels with the car on the lift after repairing the connection. I asked about doing a pump relearn/adaptation and he said he could not find this feature in VCDS. Maybe disconnecting and reconnecting the pump forced a relearn procedure on the pump. The Haldex was serviced (clean screen) a couple of weeks prior and did work for a few days.VCDS has a specific output sequence from my understanding.

The G Meter was a weird observation I made when it happened to me. Funny part is if I did a pump relearn, actuated the haldex clutch to stay open fully, the G Meter would function just fine.

The minute the basic setting "ran out", lost memory, or abandoned the function due to safety concerns the G Meter would freeze indicating faulty pump or something related to the haldex system. It's pretty neat actually.

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[sleepingSG]

Good evening,

16 with 61k miles. 375 whp tune on DCT and Haldex.

Traction control lights op on moderate to heavy acceleration. So I was suspecting trouble with AWD.

Took it to a local indie VAG shop. They ran a VAGCOM and there were no codes at all from the AWD system. However the TCU did have errors ‘could not find gear’ etc.

However, I’ve had no issues shifting.

Today I had some fresh snow and some ice so I decided to test it out and threw down some heavy throttle.

The fronts slipped but then the car carried on no issue threw the snow.

When I check the tracks I can clearly see the front wheel patch but the rears have left no evidence of slipping on the same snow.

Does this sound like
a. Everything is working, the front slip and the rears activate and catch after about .5 seconds and thus no rear slip pattern
B. Haldex is not working the fronts slip and find traction after kicking up snow and the car is remaining fwd.

Should I be concerned about the TCU?


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[Davethaboss]

Good evening,

16 with 61k miles. 375 whp tune on DCT and Haldex.

Traction control lights op on moderate to heavy acceleration. So I was suspecting trouble with AWD.

Took it to a local indie VAG shop. They ran a VAGCOM and there were no codes at all from the AWD system. However the TCU did have errors ‘could not find gear’ etc.

However, I’ve had no issues shifting.

Today I had some fresh snow and some ice so I decided to test it out and threw down some heavy throttle.

The fronts slipped but then the car carried on no issue threw the snow.

When I check the tracks I can clearly see the front wheel patch but the rears have left no evidence of slipping on the same snow.

Does this sound like
a. Everything is working, the front slip and the rears activate and catch after about .5 seconds and thus no rear slip pattern
B. Haldex is not working the fronts slip and find traction after kicking up snow and the car is remaining fwd.

Should I be concerned about the TCU?


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Use the G Meter as a reference. I had "no faults" with my pump too and it turns out the pump was still faulty. [I went through 3 at the end of the day.]

I was able to figure it out based off the G Meter. My G Meter was frozen which indicated an error. You can even open the haldex clutch manually (through OBD Eleven) and then have it go back to normal and see if it has changed and if the car feels different.

You may just have to do a pump relearn to be honest.

I had a similar error related to the TCU and cleared it and everything was fine. However my case might be different to yours.

Do yourself a favor and monitor the live data values. Look at degree of blockage specifically as well.

Show us a screenshot and we cna help you further from there.

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[XMetal]

Use the G Meter as a reference. I had "no faults" with my pump too and it turns out the pump was still faulty. [I went through 3 at the end of the day.]

I was able to figure it out based off the G Meter. My G Meter was frozen which indicated an error. You can even open the haldex clutch manually (through OBD Eleven) and then have it go back to normal and see if it has changed and if the car feels different.

You may just have to do a pump relearn to be honest.

I had a similar error related to the TCU and cleared it and everything was fine. However my case might be different to yours.

Do yourself a favor and monitor the live data values. Look at degree of blockage specifically as well.

Show us a screenshot and we cna help you further from there.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

FYI - there's no Virtual Cockpit on 2016, and thus, no G Meter.

[Davethaboss]

FYI - there's no Virtual Cockpit on 2016, and thus, no G Meter.Oops. Completely forgot.

Well then, all you have is live data then. I don't know what else you could use...

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[xander3zero]

Is G Meter available on S3 or just RS3? I didn't think my S3 had it.

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[XMetal]

Is G Meter available on S3 or just RS3? I didn't think my S3 had it.

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G Meter is officially only available on the RS3, but you can turn (and it works, unlike the power meters) with either OBD11 or VCDS

[xander3zero]

G Meter is officially only available on the RS3, but you can turn (and it works, unlike the power meters) with either OBD11 or VCDSWow it can be enabled with OBD11? I didn't see it in the apps on there, is there a specific process or coding?

NVM looks like plenty of threads on the topic come up with a search.

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[Davethaboss]

Wow it can be enabled with OBD11? I didn't see it in the apps on there, is there a specific process or coding?

NVM looks like plenty of threads on the topic come up with a search.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Audizine Forum mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)It can be. The "power" gauge doesn't work because it's missing a module that the RS3 has. I forgot exactly which one but, it's not worth the effort seeing as it's hardware related and not software unfortunately...

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[xander3zero]

It can be. The "power" gauge doesn't work because it's missing a module that the RS3 has. I forgot exactly which one but, it's not worth the effort seeing as it's hardware related and not software unfortunately...

Sent from my LM-G710VM using TapatalkFigured it out, thanks!213338

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