The definitive stereo and subwoofer upgrade thread

[Drunktank]

Hey all. Since the question threads keep popping up, I’m going to start the B8 audio and subwoofer upgrade thread where everyone should be able to get most of the info they need in one place. I will update as needed, and please let me know if you’d like to see anything added.

- 4/6/17: Added subwoofer box options

- 4/6/17: Added head unit options

- 4/12/17: Added "getting signal" section. Thanks to Doug97GXE for the input

- 5/25/18 Added new gear available

**More coming soon**



Subwoofer Box Options

We all agree the B8 is a great car. Unfortunately, it’s free-air subwoofer in the back deck is severely lacking when it comes to bass. That’s probably why a new subwoofer is the most popular upgrade for stereo fans. Let’s start there.



Custom Fiberglass Box
Mr. Spectacular has done a couple runs of right and left side trunk cubby fiberglasss boxes in 8” and 10”. These are available here: https://www.akrucarbon.com/product-page/audi-b8-5-a-s-rs-4-5-10-driver-side-sub-box Trunk pockets will need to be cut out from whichever side you install into.

QuattroRocket's box
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2932/33711935622_e673c50cef_z.jpg


SteveYem's box
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2819/33711936302_89c9cb53fa_z.jpg





B8 Subwoofer Shop
A new addition to the fold is the B8 Custom Subwoofer Shop located here: https://etsy.com/shop/customsubwoofershop
These come in 8” or 10” and utilize the passenger side trunk pocket. These don’t require any cutting of the carpet doors or relocating equipment to be able to go back to stock easily, but don’t sit as flush to the trunk wall due to having less room to work with. Many finishes and materials are available.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3946/33738976841_606cc3b309_z.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2907/33827191816_4931fdbb96_z.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3943/33827202206_902f21a046_z.jpg






Stock Location Replacement
If you’re not a basshead and just want a bit better low end response than you’re getting now, replacing the factory sub with a better free air unit could be the answer. For this install, you may need to fight rattles on the back deck with sound dampener. Popular drivers for this install have been the free-air subs from Pioneer, such as the TS-SW841D. Some people have been able to use the factory amp to power these, and some have used aftermarket amps.


Jnicho1's setup
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3842/33827168576_58c6d44d7f_z.jpg

Hatchman's sub install
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2938/33827168676_ca4f0f6aac_z.jpg





Head Units

With the B8, Audi integrated some non-audio OEM functions into the stereo and display unit, which made it more difficult to swap out head units.

Alpine
Alpine has a line of head units called "restyle" units, meaning they are made to go into a specific vehicle with OEM integrated functions maintained or even improved for said vehicle. The good news: Alpine makes one for the A4/S4/Q5. The bad news: they only make it for Europe. So what is a Concert stereo owner in the US to do?
You can install this in North America spec cars, and here's the tradeoffs:

Pros: 3 sets of 4v pre-outs, EQ, bluetooth phone and audio, NAV, HDMI input, high-res touchscreen, and previously unworking buttons being activated such as nav and talk commands. All OEM functions work correctly. Alpine also has a great install video on Youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwiPIYcLQ9Q

Cons: Head unit, left hand drive kit, rear camera and camera trunk handle mount, and updated US maps may run you $1500+ USD. You will also lose AM frequencies and the optional DVD player is coded to region 2 (Europe). There may be an optional region 1 unit that could work in this Euro head unit, but I would need confirmation from someone who has done it. If you plan on keeping the B&O amp, you'll also need to call Alpine Europe to get an extra part to adjust the signal level. Otherwise you will have a slight hiss over your audio.

Compatibility with different OEM stereo levels: This head unit is primarily made for Concert stereo with no nav or bluetooth audio, as they will see the most value. This unit is not compatible with Nav and MMI cars due to the optical connection between the head unit and amp. With that said, if you have nav but not MMI (does that exist?) and also changed out the amp to use the preouts from the Alpine, I don't see why this setup wouldn't work for you. If someone has done this head unit and aftermarket amp install with MMI, I would just want confirmation that this setup works before posting it here.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3938/33064979553_14d09d539d.jpg



Chinese Models
There are various Chinese models that are "similar" to the Alpine, or just add certain components, such as bluetooth or HDMI, but there is little info in the forums about experiences using these. Please feel free to verify if you've used any of these successfully and we'll get it added to the thread. Some examples are:

http://www.carnaviplayer.com/audi-a4s4rs4b8-2009-2015-gps-navigation-head-unit-p-1091

www.auto-electronics.com/index.php/dynavin-n6-a5.html



Getting signal with the factory head unit

For those of you who want to retain the factory head unit, but use aftermarket speakers and amp, how do we get that signal to the new amp?

Line-out convertors
When planning on upgrading just the subwoofer, the stock B&O subwoofer output is said to put out up to 80 watts. This is not a power level a typical LOC is used to seeing, and cheaper ones will not be able to handle this power level. The same goes for high-level inputs on amplifiers. Some have been able to deal with input power level, and some haven’t.
To stay with the “you get what you pay for” theme, the reigning LOC king is the AudioControl LC2i. This is a high-end converter with level controls and a processor for restoring low bass levels that a head unit may cut levels to, to try and protect OEM speakers.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2831/33838031602_d97a79cdde.jpg



Let’s say you’ve decided you to upgrade more than just your subwoofer. Things get a little complicated here. Let’s dive into it.
If you have B&O, here’s your wiring diagram.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2892/33838026562_c1abe86c65_o.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3947/33182930013_cd518aaaa3_o.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2839/33954153786_483abc0c98_o.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3931/33182930183_f7f7d2d552_o.jpg


Using this diagram, you *should* be able to tap into the correct wires for your high level inputs. I say *should* because as you can see, Audi decided to use the same color wires twice, once for the woofer/tweeter combination wire, and once for the midrange. I personally, don’t know how/if the midrange is crossed over, but deduction tells me that the other set that goes to woofer/tweeter is a full range signal.

Finally, for you MMI/Nav guys, you can tap right into the optical cable that goes to your amp for a clean, full range signal. The most popular of these are the Audison “Bit” line. Not for the faint of heart, these are very powerful DSP’s with a plethora of inputs and outputs, auto and manual EQ’s, multiple crossover types for each channel, remote control, etc, etc. etc…

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2929/33866025381_e8662a4c79.jpg


If you’re going for that great sounding system, you need to be able to EQ your setup to eliminate those frequency peaks and valleys. Three of the most common ways to do that currently for your Audi is the Audison Bit line, the JL Audio Fix, and the Alpine X701D head unit.





UPDATE 5-25-18


Updating the thread with new gear!


Alpine X702D

Alpine has released their next revision of their OEM integrated head unit for the B8 and Q5. This version includes Apple CarPlay and Android integration.
https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/headunits-for-audi/x702d-a4r

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/42336875631_73d00f31eb_b.jpg



AudioControl ACM-1.300

AudioControl has come out with a mini class D single channel amp with a built-in LC2i for higher power high-level inputs and factory system bass correction. This thing is only 9" x 3" and perfect for a subwoofer upgrade. Rated for 300 watts at 2 ohms.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/acm-1300/

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1736/42336875741_f89f70564b_k.jpg



12" Subwoofer corner box

The Audi B8 Custom Subwoofer shop is now carrying 12" corner boxes.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/CustomSubwooferShop

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/873/41434990305_cab6f7ce7f_k.jpg

***reserved for future content***

[waxxonMTL]

good idea !

[JD S4]

Great thread... THank you

[USAF_Danny]

Definitely going to be doing one of these upgrades. Contemplating on doing the OEM replacement, but I've just been so used to having a sub box in my trunks that it's really no issue. Thanks for the informative thread, I'll probably be doing one of those custom boxes for my install. The battery being in the trunk makes running wires too easy. I did it previously on my A4 before I upgraded to the S4.

[whiped]

Awesome thread.

Here is the biggest contribution I can make:
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa435/LaxerTech/Mobile%20Uploads/20160720_212213_zpshwf5o4vj.jpg

Thank me later [;)]

[USAF_Danny]

Awesome thread.

Here is the biggest contribution I can make:
http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa435/LaxerTech/Mobile%20Uploads/20160720_212213_zpshwf5o4vj.jpg

Thank me later [;)]

I don't even know what's going on here haha


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[Joker S4]

I don't even know what's going on here haha

Nor do I, however, I'd like to get to the bottom of this.

[whiped]

Guess you guys have never removed the C-pillar trim.

If you do, remember this picture to save yourself an hour of frustration and some blood blisters on your fingers. [rolleyes]

[KRp220]

great thread. i'll be tackling my sound system at some point... came from having B&O which was sufficient for me, and now i just have the stock system, which sucks.

i know nothing about sound systems but it seems like the stock system is kinda "boomy" and does has a very "hollow" sound like i've cranked the bass up on a boom box from 2002. does anybody have any suggestions for brands and specific products/models for a modest upgrade. i don;t need anything crazy, just something thats on par with B&O (or a smidge better [:D] )

[Drunktank]

4/6/17 - Added head units

[jnicho1]

Good stuff! Thanks for adding. I was scrolling through and was thinking someone did exactly what I did - haha. I'm an idiot.

[B18b1ex]

We need to add the speakers and speaker adapter info from the other thread. :)

[rubicant5x]

For the left side trunk cubby, the JL Audio shallow Subwoofer is the perfect fit

http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92184

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/product_image/thm/t328_fb7b8d191a7871fe990d42db9c57f318.jpg?14914405 31

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/product_image/thm/t286_x5_fb7b8d191a7871fe990d42db9c57f318.jpg?14914 40531

The box has a sealed CF of .52 and the subwoofer is .5 on the dot.

[Doggiefresh241]

Great idea

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[Dirt]

For the left side trunk cubby, the JL Audio shallow Subwoofer is the perfect fit

http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92184

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/product_image/thm/t328_fb7b8d191a7871fe990d42db9c57f318.jpg?14914405 31

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/product_image/thm/t286_x5_fb7b8d191a7871fe990d42db9c57f318.jpg?14914 40531

The box has a sealed CF of .52 and the subwoofer is .5 on the dot.


+1

The 8 ohm DVC version is going in my B8 on Monday.

[darkstarghost]

Ill try to find my Wire diagram for the B&O system i drew out and tested when i did my sub install!

[darksurfer11]

Dynavin is another option for an "add-on". I just recently installed mine and while it isn't perfect, it gives me what I wanted (A2DP, Nav, ability to add back-up cam, and capability to add DVD player for the kiddos). I'll see if I can't get some pictures posted later.

[doug97gxe]

Ill try to find my Wire diagram for the B&O system i drew out and tested when i did my sub install!

...


Well... I knew it wouldn't be long before I got the car audio itch. The B&O system just isn't cutting it for me. Good news for people looking to upgrade, I'm likely going to sell all the old B&O speakers. Bad news for me, I think I'm going to be spending some $$.

Anyhow, has anyone tackled this yet? I've compiled a list of the wiring I may possibly need using the B8 A5/S5 B&O diagram.



Connection From Amp - J525
BitOne Input
Speaker
Connector
Pin
Color
Notes


Center Speaker +
CH1 +
R158
T32h
5
Blue/White
Changes to Blue/White at T17c, Pin 15


Center Speaker -
CH1 -
R158
T32h
17
Black/White
Changes to Black/White at T17c, Pin 17


Front Left Tweeter +
Use Combined
R20
T27a
11
Red/Blue
B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne


Front Left Tweeter -
Use Combined
R20
T27a
24
Brown/Blue
B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne


Front Left Midrange +
Use Combined
R103
T17d
15
Red/Green
B101, Positive Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne


Front Left Midrange -
Use Combined
R103
T17d
17
Brown/Green
B102, Negative Front Left Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne


Front Left Tweeter/Midrange +
CH2 +
R20/R103
T32h
6
Red/Blue
Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal


Front Left Tweeter/Midrange -
CH2 -
R20/R103
T32h
18
Brown/Blue
Shared with R20, R103, contains combined signal


Front Left Midbass +
CH3 +
R21
T32h
23
Red/Blue
Changes to Red /Blue at T27a, Pin 20 (Main Harness)


Front Left Midbass -
CH3 -
R21
T32h
28
Brown/Blue
Changes to Brown/Blue at T27a, Pin 22 (Main Harness)


Front Right Tweeter +
Use Combined
R22
T27c
11
Blue/White
B103, Positive Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne


Front Right Tweeter -
Use Combined
R22
T27c
24
Black/White
B104, Negative Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not neeeded for BitOne


Front Right Midrange +
Use Combined
R104
T17f
15
Red/White
B103, Positive Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not needed for BitOne


Front Right Midrange -
Use Combined
R104
T17f
17
Brown/White
B104, Negative Front Right Speaker (Main Harness), not neeeded for BitOne


Front Right Tweeter/Midrange +
CH4 +
R22/R104
T32h
5
Red/Yellow
Shared with R22, R104, contains combined signal


Front Right Tweeter/Midrange -
CH4 -
R22/R104
T32h
19
Brown/Yellow
Shared with R22, R104, contains combined signal


Front Right Midbass +
CH5 +
R23
T32h
10
Red/Yellow
Changes to Red/Blue at T27c, Pin 20 (Main Harness)


Front Right Midbass -
CH5 -
R23
T32h
22
Brown/Yellow
Changes to Brown/Blue at T27c, Pin 22 (Main Harness)


Rear Left Tweeter +
Use Combined
R14
B487
23
Red/Violet
Shared with R159, not needed for BitOne


Rear Left Tweeter -
Use Combined
R14
B486
22
Brown/Violet
Shared with R159, not needed for BitOne


Rear Left Midrange +
x
R105
T32h
8
Red/Gray



Rear Left Midrange -
x
R105
T32h
20
Brown/Gray



Rear Left Midbass +
CH6 +
R159
T32h
3
Red/Violet
Shared with R14, contains full signal


Rear Left Midbass -
CH6 -
R159
T32h
15
Brown/Violet
Shared with R14, contains full signal


Rear Right Tweeter +
Use Combined
R16
B485
21
White/Green
Shared with R160, not needed for BitOne


Rear Right Tweeter -
Use Combined
R16
B484
20
Blue/Green
Shared with R160, not needed for BitOne


Rear Right Midrange +
x
R106
T32h
9
Red/Gray



Rear Right Midrange -
x
R106
T32h
21
Brown/Gray



Rear Right Midbass +
CH7 +
R160
T32h
4
White/Green
Shared with R16, contains full signal


Rear Right Midbass -
CH7 -
R160
T32h
16
Blue/Green
Shared with R16, contains full signal


Subwoofer +
CH8 +
R157
T32h
25
White/Yellow



Subwoofer -
CH8 -
R157
T32h
30
Blue/Yellow




Man does the table function suck! Next time I'm posting a PDF.....

If my theory and wiring chart is correct, you should be able to use this to wire up other processors (MS8) or LOC for your subwoofer, etc. You will want to use the "full" or "combined" signals wherever possible. After looking at the B&O schematic, it looks like there are things like microphone and telephone mute that go through the amp, so it doesn't look like it's a great idea to remove the amp completely in favor of a device like the Mobridge (though straight digital to digital sounds AWESOME!)

I realize I'm not 100% experienced in the Audi realm of car audio yet, so please forgive me if I've made an error above. I won't be able to confirm anything until I actually begin install. However, I hope to be building an awesome SQ install that gets plenty loud.

I will be using the factory locations for most speakers in the car and I will be removing the additional midranges and tweeters in the rear. I will be utilizing the rear midbass locations for some full range 6", removing the stock B&O sub to replace with some sort of sub stage, replacing the front midbasses with 7 or 8" speakers (based on depth), 1" tweets in the sails, 3" midrange on dash, and a 3" midrange in center. As I'm out of speaker outputs for the rear speakers, I might just run them from the factory amp, or run an Audio Authority 3xs to split up the front stage further and give me a couple more outputs for those rears.

Confused yet? [:p]

Stay tuned....The B8 would be the second OEM integrated install I've done, so we'll see where it takes me.

[doug97gxe]

OP You can add LOC to the list .. i've tried 3 so far


LOC (Line Output Converter) - essential when adding a subwoofer to convert the Digital Signals to analog

Official Definition
Line output converters (LOCs) are used to convert a head unit's speaker outputs or the outputs of an OEM amplifier into a signal suitable to drive the preamp inputs of an amplifier. ... When the head unit is off, the voltage on the output wires is 0 volts DC.


PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter (https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W)

the cheap alternative

Cost: $8 - $30

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61pxdO6GGuL._SL1000_.jpg

Impressions: Worked ok.. bass notes were delayed.. couldn't get the phase to work accurately. However i used to DJ and can play multiple instruments so certain transitions and notes missing i can tell it may not bother you. Also the amount of power i was pushing would make this more noticable

AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter Wwith AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control (https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0)

the top choice when adding a Subwoofer to this platform

Cost: $70

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81gE5DgfIJL._SL1500_.jpg

Impressions: Workfs perfectly, it maybe out of some peoples price range but its worth the money.. and after it being my 3rd choice i should have listened to the forum and got it in the first place.


JL Audio FiX™ 82 (https://www.crutchfield.com/S-PoSoVDqJJsw/p_13698100/JL-Audio-FiX-82.html)

The expensive choice and NOT for using when just adding a subwoofer

Cost: $350

https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/620/378/products/2015/43/136/g13698100-F.jpg

Impressions: don't use this product if you're only adding a subwoofer.. its for if you want to replace all your speakers. I made this mistake and after the headache of trying to get it to work i made the switch to the audio control. Now it is collecting dust in my closet

[darkstarghost]

...

Man where was this when i did my subs!

[Dirt]

Doug - you should go buy some speakers so you can use that FIX 82.

[doug97gxe]

Doug - you should go buy some speakers so you can use that FIX 82.

Or another car with shitty speakers.. I also have a Rainbow 2 channel amp and 2 morel ultimo sc subs collecting dust too


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[Drunktank]

i know nothing about sound systems but it seems like the stock system is kinda "boomy" and does has a very "hollow" sound like i've cranked the bass up on a boom box from 2002. does anybody have any suggestions for brands and specific products/models for a modest upgrade. i don;t need anything crazy, just something thats on par with B&O (or a smidge better )


In my opinion, it doesn't take very much to blow away the B&O sub. A JL 8" in a proper box will murder it, and it's inexpensive and hardly takes up any room. Like a lot of people on here, I was in the "bigger is better" camp, but man does the 8w3 continue to surprise me. My first car was two JL 12w1's, typical kid taking up his whole trunk with a box. Then when I got the FR-S, all I could fit was a 10" in the corner. I didn't want to go that small based of of old beliefs, but that 10W3 pounded and surprised me. Fast forward a couple years to the S4, and I went through the same thing with the 8w3. I didn't want to cut out the trunk pocket to be able to fit a 10", but I didn't think an 8" would ever do it for me. I was wrong again.

To come full circle, what I was just talking about isn't even in the same universe as that piece of crap mounted in your back deck. You'd be happy with a JL 8", no doubt.

[doug97gxe]

In my opinion, it doesn't take very much to blow away the B&O sub. A JL 8" in a proper box will murder it, and it's inexpensive and hardly takes up any room. Like a lot of people on here, I was in the "bigger is better" camp, but man does the 8w3 continue to surprise me. My first car was two JL 12w1's, typical kid taking up his whole trunk with a box. Then when I got the FR-S, all I could fit was a 10" in the corner. I didn't want to go that small based of of old beliefs, but that 10W3 pounded and surprised me. Fast forward a couple years to the S4, and I went through the same thing with the 8w3. I didn't want to cut out the trunk pocket to be able to fit a 10", but I didn't think an 8" would ever do it for me. I was wrong again.

To come full circle, what I was just talking about isn't even in the same universe as that piece of crap mounted in your back deck. You'd be happy with a JL 8", no doubt.

The world gets even more amazing when u step away from the JL brand .. it's like Jim Carrey in the Truman Show


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[Drunktank]

There's always something better, but JL has good combination of price, quality, and volume required. As he said, he's looking for a "modest upgrade", not a SQ competition.

[doug97gxe]

There's always something better, but JL has good combination of price, quality, and volume required. As he said, he's looking for a "modest upgrade", not a SQ competition.

That's the thing it's a lot much better at the same price and better quality but I digress


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[miztahsparklez]

Man where was this when i did my subs!

It was there when you used the search button ;)

Also, I've been competing in SQ competitions with this car [emoji16]


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[white fish]

so what would be better a 8" in the cubby or a 10" free air in the deck?

[Andrew Lane]

A 10" in either a sealed box or in the cubby would be the best option in my opinion. I would also recommend an amp that has speaker level inputs instead of adding a line out converter. It saves a bit of messing around! Here is a link to a write up that I did for my sub and amp installation on my non B&O system. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/audio-video-security-discussion-15/2014-s4-non-b-o-aftermarket-subwoofer-amp-install-2906554/
It's a bit lengthy, but I think that I pretty well covered everything!

[miztahsparklez]

so what would be better a 8" in the cubby or a 10" free air in the deck?

Larger cone area wins. However, your performance will suffer if you can't separate the front and rear waves of the speaker completely, as you will get cancellation.

I'm actually running two 10s in the rear deck, with a reinforced baffle that seals the subs from the cabin and prevents the deck from flexing as much.

You might see better performance out of a sealed box only if you are not able to completely seal the trunk off.

Free air will use less power demands as well, as it will take less power to move the speaker.


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[mcintoshi]

Great thread. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the NON B&O cars?

[cspcrx]

Anyone have one of those Etsy boxes? They sure look nice and come with the speaker.

[doug97gxe]

Anyone have one of those Etsy boxes? They sure look nice and come with the speaker.

I would get it without the speaker because the box itself looks pretty nice but you're paying JL tax at that price


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[Drunktank]

There's Hertz and Audison drivers on there also. Instead of bashing JL in every thread, I would love to hear why you have this disdain for the brand. I'm not being sarcastic, I would love to learn from your experience because there's a lot of people that disagree with you on that.

[doug97gxe]

There's Hertz and Audison drivers on there also. Instead of bashing JL in every thread, I would love to hear why you have this disdain for the brand. I'm not being sarcastic, I would love to learn from your experience because there's a lot of people that disagree with you on that.

Where did I bash JL? You don't want me to bash JL I could go on for days

JL makes a mediocre product at a premium price .. people who have been around car audio for a while know this.. JL is basically paying $40k for a maxima when an A4 is cheaper


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[Drunktank]

Right, but that's easy to say without ever backing it up. I've been using JL since the 90's and it's always treated me well, decent price, lots of compliments. I know it's not the highest quality pinnacle brand, but I also don't feel like everyone who uses JL has no idea what good sounds like. Why don't you educate us on your experience?

[Drunktank]

Added "getting signal" section.

[doug97gxe]

Right, but that's easy to say without ever backing it up. I've been using JL since the 90's and it's always treated me well, decent price, lots of compliments. I know it's not the highest quality pinnacle brand, but I also don't feel like everyone who uses JL has no idea what good sounds like. Why don't you educate us on your experience?

I've had setup's JL, MB Quartz, Diamond Audio, Rainbow Audio, Image Dynamics, Resonant Engineering and Morel as far as speakers

- JL was ok .. decent drivers.. not as clear and a high price tag
- MB Quartz was also ok .. along the same quality as JL but the Tweeters were muddy
- Diamond Audio .. excellent for the price tag and better clarity than JL
- Rainbow Audio .. by far my favorite of all for components .. quality materials .. excellent sound clarity .. Subwoofers were ok.. more SQ focused didn't go loud enough
- Image Dynamics .. my fav subwoofer .. blows away all competition .. even 1 10" sounded better than 2 12w6's a friend had
- Resonant Engineering .. loved this subwoofer .. not as great as Image Dynamics but my second fav
- Morel ... loved this subwoofer as well.. excellent sound quality .. could be a bit louder

Amplifiers .. i've had JL, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Rainbow Audio, US Amps and Kenwood

- JL decent product .. but at a slightly lower price my friends Zapco amp performed much better
- Kicker .. worked great when i had it.. but soon as it got hot the amp would shut down
- Rockford Fosgate .. the older equipment was great.. new stuff is not as good
- Rainbow Audio.. my fav amp.. super clean.. doesn't run hot and puts out watts as advertised
- US Amps .. this worked great for the application i had.. SQ not as good.. but it did work very good
- Kenwood was ok


I've found a lot of JL Owners i have met got sold into buying it from the Car Audio shop as the best thing since sliced bread and have never actually tried various set ups.. so they don't know any better..

If you've dealt with Car Audio shops for a while you know they like to push whatever they feel like pushing based on which manufacturer is giving them the discount at that point.. those guys are worse than used car salesmen

[doug97gxe]

Remember when people were paying $100 for monster HDMI cables then monoprice came in selling them for $10 .. then you had people saying the monster cable was clearer even though the cables were digital so it was either it worked or didn't .. that's my feeling on JL Audio

Ironically i feel the same about Beats headphones which are also made by monster


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[Doggiefresh241]

Right, but that's easy to say without ever backing it up. I've been using JL since the 90's and it's always treated me well, decent price, lots of compliments. I know it's not the highest quality pinnacle brand, but I also don't feel like everyone who uses JL has no idea what good sounds like. Why don't you educate us on your experience?
JL speakers are trash. Their sub are ok. Hertz is way better quality. And their JL Amps are way over priced.

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[doug97gxe]

We are not the same doug btw [emoji23]


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[Drunktank]

Lol, thanks guys. I'll check out the recommendations.

[Silverbullet S4]

Came here to recommend Focal speakers. Went with a full component set of their "Flax" line and couldn't be happier. Adding the JBL MS-8 sure didn't hurt either though. Using that almost feels like cheating...

[Drunktank]

Great set, I agree and use them too. I have the Focal PS 165 F3's in the front. The best part was the mid was an absolutely perfect fit. It squeezed in so well, I didn't even need any mounting hardware/screws.

[Oloung1]

- Image Dynamics .. my fav subwoofer .. blows away all competition .. even 1 10" sounded better than 2 12w6's a friend had

as a previous owner of 2 12v6's this is relevant to my interests [drool] which amp ran cleanest with the ID10?

[doug97gxe]

as a previous owner of 2 12v6's this is relevant to my interests [drool] which amp ran cleanest with the ID10?

Rainbow IPaul DM2000


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[audis4culver]

HOLY HELL... My IDMAX 10" Sub just arrived.. the damn thing weighs a TON !! My stage 2 tune might feel like going back to stage 1 !! Do you all know how much this thing weighs compared to the stock B&O sub? I might just be freaking and they weigh the same but damn I couldnt believe how much a sub weighs they days. I remember the days when a speaker weighed less than a small stack of paper. Will do the install this weekend....

[doug97gxe]

HOLY HELL... My IDMAX 10" Sub just arrived.. the damn thing weighs a TON !! My stage 2 tune might feel like going back to stage 1 !! Do you all know how much this thing weighs compared to the stock B&O sub? I might just be freaking and they weigh the same but damn I couldnt believe how much a sub weighs they days. I remember the days when a speaker weighed less than a small stack of paper. Will do the install this weekend....

lol yes yes she is.. but she performs like a beauty.. think of it more of getting 50/50 weight ratio.. did you get a box already? because she won't fit in the rear deck

vs stock BO Subwoofer

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161029/6c33f953a5bfda8ce28598fc83194575.jpg

[audis4culver]

holy shit !! I had no idea !!! After all the reading up on it.. I thought she would fit right into the existing holes since they supposedly were both 10" diameter speakers. I am an idiot. A "box" ... i assume the speaker would mount in the box and the box to the car? What if I cut out a larger hole and just drill in new screws? This is starting to look alot more complicated. I took my entire front end off and installed a cold front system myself.. pretty easy.. but this is starting to look a little more complex.
lol yes yes she is.. but she performs like a beauty.. think of it more of getting 50/50 weight ratio.. did you get a box already? because she won't fit in the rear deck

vs stock BO Subwoofer

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161029/6c33f953a5bfda8ce28598fc83194575.jpg

[doug97gxe]

holy shit !! I had no idea !!! After all the reading up on it.. I thought she would fit right into the existing holes since they supposedly were both 10" diameter speakers. I am an idiot. A "box" ... i assume the speaker would mount in the box and the box to the car? What if I cut out a larger hole and just drill in new screws? This is starting to look alot more complicated. I took my entire front end off and installed a cold front system myself.. pretty easy.. but this is starting to look a little more complex.

I took my whole deck apart the magnet wouldn't clear the back glass.. this is an S5 thought not sure if the S4 will clear

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/42609ace3c14d1dd15700772e8644e2b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/907c4a208667024a46880096d2e23d84.jpg


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[audis4culver]

damn.. I'm already thinking I might have to completely re-do the rear deck.. I would want to mount this bitch in the center ... not sure I could mentally handle the listing this thing might create. tire- rebalancing... steering wheel compensation...new springs on one side...
I will take it apart and see what I get into but thinking I could mount it from the bottom and install spacers and then seal it off.
I took my whole deck apart the magnet wouldn't clear the back glass.. this is an S5 thought not sure if the S4 will clear

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/42609ace3c14d1dd15700772e8644e2b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/907c4a208667024a46880096d2e23d84.jpg


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[miztahsparklez]

damn.. I'm already thinking I might have to completely re-do the rear deck.. I would want to mount this bitch in the center ... not sure I could mentally handle the listing this thing might create. tire- rebalancing... steering wheel compensation...new springs on one side...
I will take it apart and see what I get into but thinking I could mount it from the bottom and install spacers and then seal it off.

That's what I did. I have two 10s [emoji23]


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[jnicho1]

It's somewhat embarrassing that Audi would put that pathetic sub in with the upgraded B&O system. I was shocked when I took it out. No wonder there's no bass!

[Drunktank]

That's a pretty pathetic comparison picture. By the way, does ID make any kind of grilles for their drivers? I would need one that integrates with the speaker, either going into it like a JL, or using the same bolt holes like most others. The problem is the box is fiberglass, and the only wood for mounting is the ring directly below the speaker mounting holes. Thanks.

[doug97gxe]

That's a pretty pathetic comparison picture. By the way, does ID make any kind of grills for their drivers? I would need one that integrates with the speaker, either going into it like a JL, or using the same bolt holes like most others. The problem is the box is fiberglass, and the only wood for mounting is the ring directly below the speaker mounting holes. Thanks.

this is the grill i used in my 350z https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ7SCC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

actually bought them for my S5 but yet to install them.. shit come to think of it i dont know where my wife moved it.. i just recently found a plate holder i bought ... soon as i leave something on kitchen island for a day it disappears in the house

[Drunktank]

Yeah, that won't work unfortunately. I need it to integrated with the speaker. I'll probably just end up using the Audison. Thanks.

[doug97gxe]

Yeah, that won't work unfortunately. I need it to integrated with the speaker. I'll probably just end up using the Audison. Thanks.

Ok I get what you're saying now.. my morels came with those they sit in top of the sub




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[mcintoshi]

The AudioControl Epicenter 600 is a perfect amp for those wanting to just add a sub. It has a built in LC2i, plenty of power, and their Epicenter Bass Restoration system. Just be sure to use a full range signal (like the rear speakers wires rather than the factory sub wires) so that the Epicenter functionality will work. Also no need for a remote turn on wire, their GTO feature turns on the amp when it gets a signal from the speaker level inputs.

I have the NON B&O system and the Rear Speakers are: LEFT = (+) Red/Violet (-) Brown/ Violet RIGHT = (+) White/Green (-) Blue/Green

[audis4culver]

So.. wired up my idmax10" sub.. i didnt have an in between so i tried both a 12g and 18gauge wire.. i bridged pos to neg so i get 8 ohm. All i get is a super faint sound .. even on fader rear and full volume. Anyone successfully powered this speaker with the stock b&o amp? I get nothing.


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[doug97gxe]

So.. wired up my idmax10" sub.. i didnt have an in between so i tried both a 12g and 18gauge wire.. i bridged pos to neg so i get 8 ohm. All i get is a super faint sound .. even on fader rear and full volume. Anyone successfully powered this speaker with the stock b&o amp? I get nothing.


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I'm surprised your getting sound at all.. maybe I didn't explain enough and that's my fault the BO amp puts out 80 watts the ID Max takes 1000 watts


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[audis4culver]

Like i said.. no clue when it comes to audio.. whats the best amp add on or substitute? I'll start doing my research.


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[willms81]

This is the setup I had in my e90. The two 10w3v3 subs aren't pictured. Looking at swapping it to the S4.

For those of you that have aftermarket subs, did you leave the factory in the rear deck or remove it completely?


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170422/0ce3cc5aab1a814b8db282bae7de29f3.jpg

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[Drunktank]

I left mine in out of laziness, but some people have removed their's and said it's a bit louder. Maybe fold down the smaller section of the back seat a little bit and see what you think of the sound?

[Game]

I took mine out...but I did the Pioneer sub upgrade. Either way I would've taken it out.

[willms81]

I also lined my trunk with Fatmat due to a fuel door that rattled incessantly.

Are there any common places on the S4 that are prone rattling?

[miztahsparklez]

I also lined my trunk with Fatmat due to a fuel door that rattled incessantly.

Are there any common places on the S4 that are prone rattling?

The stupid air vent flaps that vent the air from the car to the bumper.... Impossible to stop buzzing [emoji53]


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[PeteRock]

If you add the 8 inch passenger side pocket sub from the B8 Subwoofer Shop can you power this from the existing B&O setup without having to upgrade the amplifier?


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[doug97gxe]

Like i said.. no clue when it comes to audio.. whats the best amp add on or substitute? I'll start doing my research.


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My pick http://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-amplifiers/c-27-one-channel/p-11615-z-1kd-zapco-monoblock-class-d-sound-q-bass-amplifier.html

I apologize for the misinformation I would hate for someone to buy a product under my recommendation and was not satisfied

For amp shopping look for THD or distortion the lower the number the better .. also for doing research check http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/

You can search IDMax and see what amp people like to use with it

Don't forget you will also need the lc2i from Audio control to convert the factory signal to the amp


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[audis4culver]

No problem.. i've taken engines apart and put them back together but when it comes to audio .. i've never messed around. Thanks for getting me started!! I appreciate it. On order are the above amp and converter. I assume i just add a lead from the the amp to the battery.


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[doug97gxe]

No problem.. i've taken engines apart and put them back together but when it comes to audio .. i've never messed around. Thanks for getting me started!! I appreciate it. On order are the above amp and converter. I assume i just add a lead from the the amp to the battery.


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Oh sorry you will need an amp kit or you can buy the parts individually .. also distribution blocks .. let me see if I can find my break down post I had with it .. if not I will find the info again


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[14S4GWM]

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-kkVp1MrAyMn/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifier_installation_guide.html

[doug97gxe]

No problem.. i've taken engines apart and put them back together but when it comes to audio .. i've never messed around. Thanks for getting me started!! I appreciate it. On order are the above amp and converter. I assume i just add a lead from the the amp to the battery.


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Bang & Olufsen Subwoofer Upgrade B&O


Get Amp
Get LOC (lc2i I recommend I've tried 3)
Get Sub
Get 4 gauge Amp Kit

I've done 10+ personal stereo install.. this was by far the easiest the whole job was quicker than it took me to run new door wires in my 350z

On to install

- Find suitable ground and connect ground wire from Amp kit(tape off open end)

- Connect power wire to battery.. tape off open end

- Connect remote wire to front fuse box red rows and run wire to trunk or use relay in trunk .. if you have a B8 a red row of fuses will be in the trunk.. no so much for the B8.5

- Remove rear deck .. dynamat the rear deck then disconnect stock sub.. fish the sub connection to the trunk.. physically look in the trunk that you see it.. rear assemble rear deck

- Connect power ground and remote to Amp and LOC .. check they are not turning on.. turn the car on see if they are turning on .. if it's on when the car is off your remote wire is using a non switched source .. if they don't come on at all then ur remote source or ground is incorrect .. a volt meter helps always have one handy

- If everything powers on as expected then turn the car off .. tap in the sub wire you dropped and connect it to the LOC then connect the rca from the LOC to the sub and you should be done


This is a top of head write up if you have more questions on certain things let me know I find you screen shots and explain in depth

Plan your whole install on paper so I know how many connections and fuse blocks etc u need .. amazon is great one stop shop for everything .. http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Power-Wire-c44.htm also has good parts and also http://www.parts-express.com/cat/electronic-parts/10

Since you're splitting power ground and remote with the Amp and LOC distribution blocks are a nice clean way to do your install and you can mount them all to the box

Fuses.. if your fuse with your amp kit is smaller than your amp needs buy spare fuses as well .. Amp kits are a great start but you might need additional things

Ideas

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/eb4b9ef898ae776a95f5ae82bc8c14a7.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/1d745a90863d376952ba7c62e829a8b5.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/dfd0e9bf4e9adda4610d4d7e65686ea3.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161124/a2aed197a1dcb45ebc76301baf5792ac.png


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i

[audis4culver]

Bang & Olufsen Subwoofer Upgrade B&O



i

Nice.. this helps alot.. so if i understand correctly.. the line converter connects to my stock (b&o) sub wires (the ones that were connected to my stock sub) and then i take rca cables from the converter to my new sub?


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[doug97gxe]

Nice.. this helps alot.. so if i understand correctly.. the line converter connects to my stock (b&o) sub wires (the ones that were connected to my stock sub) and then i take rca cables from the converter to my new sub?


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Yup .. stock sub wires > loc .. loc RCA > to amp RCA > amp speaker wires to sub

The power from the battery will split to the amp and loc and the ground will split to the Loc and amp.. also the remote turn on will split to the loc and amp as well


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[audis4culver]

Got it.. i'm ready.... thanks a ton!!!!!!


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[Doggiefresh241]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AIoB7cZDfc

just came across this

https://www.etsy.com/shop/customsubwoofershop

[doug97gxe]

Got it.. i'm ready.... thanks a ton!!!!!!


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Good luck and sorry again for the misunderstanding


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[audis4culver]

Umm…ok… still dazed… shocked..
every time I fire up an engine I have rebuilt (only 2) and the sound is the most beautiful thing ever….
I installed my amp..and my idmax10 finally came on.... ahh…and i'm speechless.. Or maybe I should say.. deaf.. I almost blew up my ear drums. I had no clue this bitch was so over the top loud !!!!!!!!!!!!! I have tried to keep this install secret from the boss wife.. she came running into the garage and said “what the hell was that sound? A bomb? “ I said.. ahh.. nothing to worry about here.. keep doing the dishes.. don’t worry… nothing to worry about…
I spent the next 3 hours trying to figure out how to bring it down to a level that still made the entire system sound balanced. I think an IDMAX 10”, although it looks and sounds awesome, is waaaaay too much speaker for me. I almost thought about selling it and getting something smaller.. but its in and staying for now unless my stage 2 tune starts to feel stage 1 with the weight of this thing. I might grow into loving it .. but am still trying to even comprehend it. I guess I don’t listen to all too much bass and maybe I didn’t even know how much bass was there but is this what other people have when they put in these high end systems? Did someone say they have 2 10” subs?? What kind of music are people playing? I love all sorts of music and my ears are damn good… I’m still trying to understand it all.
So.. my question now becomes how to best balance or make the thing play nice with my B&O speakers in the front. I have the fader set to 75% front, and the bass to maybe.. 5-10%.... its still a little overpowering. I installed a kill switch under my front seat so when I pickup by 6 and 3 year from kindergarten I don’t blow their ears off.
Any ideas on how to bring this back into reality mode? Or is this just how its going to be due to the size (1000w)of the sub? Doug97gxe…. Thanks for getting me into the audio world.. I now am excited to experiment with other speakers. I appreciate all your help – I never realized what the possibilities out there are and this has opened my eyes..ears.. completely. I will give it some time.. but if this thing is still too much for me, I assume going with something smaller – 500W or 300W is logical? It’s the watts not the size of the sub that make it so loud?

[doug97gxe]

Umm…ok… still dazed… shocked..
every time I fire up an engine I have rebuilt (only 2) and the sound is the most beautiful thing ever….
I installed my amp..and my idmax10 finally came on.... ahh…and i'm speechless.. Or maybe I should say.. deaf.. I almost blew up my ear drums. I had no clue this bitch was so over the top loud !!!!!!!!!!!!! I have tried to keep this install secret from the boss wife.. she came running into the garage and said “what the hell was that sound? A bomb? “ I said.. ahh.. nothing to worry about here.. keep doing the dishes.. don’t worry… nothing to worry about…
I spent the next 3 hours trying to figure out how to bring it down to a level that still made the entire system sound balanced. I think an IDMAX 10”, although it looks and sounds awesome, is waaaaay too much speaker for me. I almost thought about selling it and getting something smaller.. but its in and staying for now unless my stage 2 tune starts to feel stage 1 with the weight of this thing. I might grow into loving it .. but am still trying to even comprehend it. I guess I don’t listen to all too much bass and maybe I didn’t even know how much bass was there but is this what other people have when they put in these high end systems? Did someone say they have 2 10” subs?? What kind of music are people playing? I love all sorts of music and my ears are damn good… I’m still trying to understand it all.
So.. my question now becomes how to best balance or make the thing play nice with my B&O speakers in the front. I have the fader set to 75% front, and the bass to maybe.. 5-10%.... its still a little overpowering. I installed a kill switch under my front seat so when I pickup by 6 and 3 year from kindergarten I don’t blow their ears off.
Any ideas on how to bring this back into reality mode? Or is this just how its going to be due to the size (1000w)of the sub? Doug97gxe…. Thanks for getting me into the audio world.. I now am excited to experiment with other speakers. I appreciate all your help – I never realized what the possibilities out there are and this has opened my eyes..ears.. completely. I will give it some time.. but if this thing is still too much for me, I assume going with something smaller – 500W or 300W is logical? It’s the watts not the size of the sub that make it so loud?

lol have no fear.. do you have the Audio Control LC2i? i will go take some pics of my settings

[audis4culver]

i have it on order... 67 bucks from ebay. mid week. I went to best buy and bought a cheepo thing for $15

[doug97gxe]

i have it on order... 67 bucks from ebay. mid week. I went to best buy and bought a cheepo thing for $15

The cheap One will be harder to dial in trust me I went through 3

Start with your bass on the radio at 1/4 then increase as u go along .. turn down the gain of the amp and turn off all bass boost

Here are my settings

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170424/2d96e229984221da15c1a0a65f11de23.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170424/a683d97fdd9771c3b19af5c20e3f2192.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170424/1d1533931f085a22db0df441ab16eb94.jpg

Start low and slowly increase it will get better with the lc2i u can dial it in better and your bass notes will be way more accurate .. my system is totally balanced now and when the wife and kid are in the car I put my bass to half which they both don't find over powering


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[audis4culver]

Cool.. will try that when the lc2i arrives. Thanks for the pics.. very helpful!!!!


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[doug97gxe]

Cool.. will try that when the lc2i arrives. Thanks for the pics.. very helpful!!!!


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Check my lc2i settings too when yours comes in


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[doug97gxe]

? Did someone say they have 2 10” subs?? I assume going with something smaller – 500W or 300W is logical? It’s the watts not the size of the sub that make it so loud?

now that i have talked you off the ledge for now.. let me answer some of these questions.. yes you're correct its.. not the size of the sub or the amount of subs that makes it loud or better quality. I have a buddy with 4 10's in his Titan .. they are in the cabin and they are still not as loud as my IDMax.. it blew his mind because when he was getting his truck setup i told him not to buy 4 subs just get one 1 ID. Watts definitely tells apart of the story.. also the amount of decibels the sub will put out. Usually more watts a sub can handle is the more decibels it will put out.. but its not always the case in all situations. Then there is SPL (how loud a sub will get aka decibels) and SQ (how good of sound quality the sub will produce) .. ever heard some cars where the trunk is vibrating and the sub sounds like farts? that's a bad SQ sub but maybe a good SPL sub... ever heard a nice detailed note sub but not loud at all or gets deep? that's a good SQ sub.. The ID Max is a sub with both SQ and SPL .. oh yeah there is also excursion but we will leave that a lone for now

[audis4culver]

awesome.. this is all starting to become much clearer for me. Yes !! Driving around town I sometimes hear some car with the entire trunk sounding like its about to unscrew itself.. bad SQ - got it. I dont want to join that club. I dont know all the audio lingo yet.. but a "nice detailed sub note not too loud" .. that will take me some time to understand. i drink way too much wine and I know what I like and dont.. "nice notes".. but audio is tough to define. Thanks professor ! all this is very helpful education. Love absorbing it all.
now that i have talked you off the ledge for now.. let me answer some of these questions.. yes you're correct its.. not the size of the sub or the amount of subs that makes it loud or better quality. I have a buddy with 4 10's in his Titan .. they are in the cabin and they are still not as loud as my IDMax.. it blew his mind because when he was getting his truck setup i told him not to buy 4 subs just get one 1 ID. Watts definitely tells apart of the story.. also the amount of decibels the sub will put out. Usually more watts a sub can handle is the more decibels it will put out.. but its not always the case in all situations. Then there is SPL (how loud a sub will get aka decibels) and SQ (how good of sound quality the sub will produce) .. ever heard some cars where the trunk is vibrating and the sub sounds like farts? that's a bad SQ sub but maybe a good SPL sub... ever heard a nice detailed note sub but not loud at all or gets deep? that's a good SQ sub.. The ID Max is a sub with both SQ and SPL .. oh yeah there is also excursion but we will leave that a lone for now

[Drunktank]

If you add the 8 inch passenger side pocket sub from the B8 Subwoofer Shop can you power this from the existing B&O setup without having to upgrade the amplifier?

I doubt it. That aftermarket speaker is definitely going to crave more power. The good thing is, you can get a nice, compact class D unit that will barely heat up and is easy to stow away behind a trunk cubby for not very much money.




HOLY HELL... My IDMAX 10" Sub just arrived.. the damn thing weighs a TON !!

Lol, you skipped a lot of power levels and went straight to crazyville with that thing. You'll probably never get close to using it to it's full potential, but I'm sure you'll still be happy.

[miztahsparklez]

Did someone say they have 2 10” subs??

I do, but I have a full system for sound quality. I have nothing left of the b&o.

The key to balance is just turning it down. Headroom is good. Set your b&o bass levels to middle and turn up the treble and midrange.

I had a 12" with my b&o and it was fine for that system.

I compete in SQ competitions, so I'm a little bit more extreme. Lol


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[audis4culver]

thanks. my lc2i audiocontrol arrives today.. I'll replace the cheep one I have and see what the difference is. Its been 3 days and after all the balancing suggestions I'm actually slightly starting to like it...still shocked at how heavy the thing is though. I never knew about sq comps .. with all those speakers.. the car must weigh a ton - no worries about slowing it down or just not an issue? my dash looks like this with no midrange .. but I dont think i can really notice the difference anyway. thanks again to all.http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_7160.JPG (http://www.audizine.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=87836&title=img-7160&cat=500)

[doug97gxe]

thanks. my lc2i audiocontrol arrives today.. I'll replace the cheep one I have and see what the difference is. Its been 3 days and after all the balancing suggestions I'm actually slightly starting to like it...still shocked at how heavy the thing is though. I never knew about sq comps .. with all those speakers.. the car must weigh a ton - no worries about slowing it down or just not an issue? my dash looks like this with no midrange .. but I dont think i can really notice the difference anyway. thanks again to all.http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_7160.JPG (http://www.audizine.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=87836&title=img-7160&cat=500)

either its the DSP settings or the B8's are different from the B8.5

[doug97gxe]

I would love to go to an SQ competition .. i've been to SPL Competitions and hated them.. wasn't for me.. but everyone there was excited and happy .. its nothing nicer than hearing sweet notes across the range

[audis4culver]

when I go into the dsp settings.. all I get are some b&o stuff... no midrange.. must just be b8 vs b8.5 I'm not that good anyway.. to me 'midrange' means going 60mph in 2 gear. really starting to like this speaker though... cant wait to get home from my lovely job to hook up the lc2i
i might have to start messing around putting something into my bmw and jag.. dont think my wife would like her q7 to magically have bass.. that would not go over to well.

[doug97gxe]

when I go into the dsp settings.. all I get are some b&o stuff... no midrange.. must just be b8 vs b8.5 I'm not that good anyway.. to me 'midrange' means going 60mph in 2 gear. really starting to like this speaker though... cant wait to get home from my lovely job to hook up the lc2i
i might have to start messing around putting something into my bmw and jag.. dont think my wife would like her q7 to magically have bass.. that would not go over to well.

I actually though the same thing to my wife's RRS.. then i turned up the sub and bass and it put the stock BO Sub to shame.. its not ID territory but it had some nice deep bass

[PeteRock]

I decided to go with the Trunk Storage Sub from the B8 Custom Subwoofer Shop for my 2017 S5 and I couldn't be happier! It looks and sounds AMAZING! I went with the Carbon Fiber enclosure and added a blacked out S5 Badge...thanks Chris Bowen!

I went with a 250 Watt Mono Alpine Amp and the LC2i Converter and had the install done at Rays Electronics in Bloomingdale IL....thanks Shaun Patel!

Here are a couple of pics....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/bb2c44e3f589f65e4d3f49d0003de8b4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170507/1b8e5f69010bd06efda97f21cf98d07c.jpg


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[cspcrx]

Looks nice. I am really leaning towards one of his boxes. Seems to be the least disruptive install option. Is that an 8in sub in yours? Did you leave the factory free air in place and working? Did you grab signal from the factory sub or from the full range in the rear deck?

How was the seller to work with? I want to contact him but it seems like I have to make some kind of account or something.

Sorry for all of the questions.

[doug97gxe]

Looks nice. I am really leaning towards one of his boxes. Seems to be the least disruptive install option. Is that an 8in sub in yours? Did you leave the factory free air in place and working? Did you grab signal from the factory sub or from the full range in the rear deck?

How was the seller to work with? I want to contact him but it seems like I have to make some kind of account or something.

Sorry for all of the questions.

based on the pics on the site and dimensions i would say 8"

[PeteRock]

Thanks! It's a JL Audio 8w3 and I disconnected the B&O Sub for the signal but left it there.

The seller was awesome to work with and very responsive to my questions. I had quite a few as his Subs are designed for the B8 S4 and I have a B8.5 S5 so he wasn't sure about the fit. All you need to do is create an Etsy account which took less than 5 mins and I Unsubscribed to their emails so it's painless. I paid online and he shipped it immediately. Totally seamless.


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[cspcrx]

Thanks, video on his site makes it look very easy to install

[itr325]

So question for you guys running the LC2i, are you bypassing the remote side and running a switched 12V to the amp remote? Cause for what ever reason, my LC2i will not turn on unless I supply 12V to the remote in. I thought this LC2i can turn the amp on without having to find a switched 12V for the remote. Am I missing something?

[doug97gxe]

So question for you guys running the LC2i, are you bypassing the remote side and running a switched 12V to the amp remote? Cause for what ever reason, my LC2i will not turn on unless I supply 12V to the remote in. I thought this LC2i can turn the amp on without having to find a switched 12V for the remote. Am I missing something?

it doesn't work.. i think i also said this prior in this thread.. the sub signal isn't powerful enough.. you must the remote lead

[itr325]

Damn....Looks like I'll need to break out the multi-meter and looked for a switched source.

[doug97gxe]

Damn....Looks like I'll need to break out the multi-meter and looked for a switched source.

B8 .. there is a red row of fuses in the trunk... B8.5 you can use the relay


the B8 has a red row of fuses in the trunk.. the B8.5 does not.. i tapped into a relay and it works

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/f736e63ee0cf3c1797c9e6973af8e21a.jpg

[itr325]

Is that pic of a B8 or 8.5? I've got an 8.

[doug97gxe]

Is that pic of a B8 or 8.5? I've got an 8.

That's a B8.5 in the B8 it will be red row of fuses

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/attachments/audi-a5-s5-rs5-coupe-cabrio-b8-125/7466d1266681341-2010-s5-amp-sub-install-write-up-dscn1092.jpg


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[itr325]

Haha!! I'm business, many thx!!!

[briceportier]

What if there was a way to completely bypass symphonys, concerts, MMI2/3G Highs & Lows, etc and (almost) instantly upgrade your B8 to a B9:

http://cloud.tapatal...ist(public).pdf

I've been following Daniel's progress for some time and what he has achieved almost single handedly is nothing short of exceptional... Have a look...

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[doug97gxe]

Haha!! I'm business, many thx!!!

No prob and great to hear


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[doug97gxe]

What if there was a way to completely bypass symphonys, concerts, MMI2/3G Highs & Lows, etc and (almost) instantly upgrade your B8 to a B9:

http://cloud.tapatal...ist(public).pdf

I've been following Daniel's progress for some time and what he has achieved almost single handedly is nothing short of exceptional... Have a look...

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If I'm upgrading my whole system is far cheaper to use high end equipment and the interface is way better and will sound much better


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[daytonas4]

i have not seen anyone install a "high end " audio system for pure sq in a b8.5 s4 . id like to see it .. im deciding if i want to take the leap into a true sq system in my car . but it will take a huge amount of time and effort that i dont know if im willing to dish out yet . i am a high end audio nerd . so we will see what this winter brings

[doug97gxe]

i have not seen anyone install a "high end " audio system for pure sq in a b8.5 s4 . id like to see it .. im deciding if i want to take the leap into a true sq system in my car . but it will take a huge amount of time and effort that i dont know if im willing to dish out yet . i am a high end audio nerd . so we will see what this winter brings

Most don't do it because BO is pretty clean and only needs a sub


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[Dirt]

i have not seen anyone install a "high end " audio system for pure sq in a b8.5 s4 . id like to see it .. im deciding if i want to take the leap into a true sq system in my car . but it will take a huge amount of time and effort that i dont know if im willing to dish out yet . i am a high end audio nerd . so we will see what this winter brings

Would you consider this high end? Or no?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/758986-Stereo-build-thoughts?p=12317384#post12317384

[miztahsparklez]

i have not seen anyone install a "high end " audio system for pure sq in a b8.5 s4 . id like to see it .. im deciding if i want to take the leap into a true sq system in my car . but it will take a huge amount of time and effort that i dont know if im willing to dish out yet . i am a high end audio nerd . so we will see what this winter brings

I don't have anything b&o left except grilles.


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[fmzip]

I decided to go with the Trunk Storage Sub from the B8 Custom Subwoofer Shop for my 2017 S5 and I couldn't be happier! It looks and sounds AMAZING! I went with the Carbon Fiber enclosure and added a blacked out S5 Badge...thanks Chris Bowen!

I went with a 250 Watt Mono Alpine Amp and the LC2i Converter and had the install done at Rays Electronics in Bloomingdale IL....thanks Shaun Patel!


Very nice install. Is there a way to control the sub output from the drivers seat? My old JL500/5 amp had a nice little volume control knob which was useful to dial in less/more sub as needed

[PeteRock]

Very nice install. Is there a way to control the sub output from the drivers seat? My old JL500/5 amp had a nice little volume control knob which was useful to dial in less/more sub as needed

Thanks! I actually ended up upgrading the amp to a JL Audio 500 watt mono amp.

Yep! The Line Out Converter allows you to control the bass right from the MMI and I also ran a remote bass knob that I mounted right under the dash for controlling sub output.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170831/10aee35b5e5bc6300c3520a5940653e5.jpg


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[doug97gxe]

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Control-Remote-Epicenter-Overdrive/dp/B005R4E1MM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504183727&sr=8-1&keywords=lc2i+bass+knob

LC2I has a remote knob available

[fmzip]

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Control-Remote-Epicenter-Overdrive/dp/B005R4E1MM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504183727&sr=8-1&keywords=lc2i+bass+knob

LC2I has a remote knob available


Thanks! I actually ended up upgrading the amp to a JL Audio 500 watt mono amp.

Yep! The Line Out Converter allows you to control the bass right from the MMI and I also ran a remote bass knob that I mounted right under the dash for controlling sub output.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170831/10aee35b5e5bc6300c3520a5940653e5.jpg


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Thanks for the info! Do you have a link to where you purchased that JL amp? When I google it, I find a marine grade amp that looks nothing like it

[slacktide]

Thanks for the info! Do you have a link to where you purchased that JL amp? When I google it, I find a marine grade amp that looks nothing like it

That's the one. The amp doesn't know that it's not on a boat. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-X9mGWO8IZcB/p_13698407/JL-Audio-MX500-1.html

[doug97gxe]

if you're not caught up on the JL name you can find much better option with more power.. less distortion at same or better price

[doug97gxe]

this Zapco is less expensive and has a distortion of 0.2% .. that JL Amp cost more and has a distortion of 1%

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-amplifiers/c-27-one-channel/p-11624-st-500dm-zapco-monoblock-class-d-low-range-amplifier.html

search Total Harmonic Distortion to understand how that affects clean power and why the lower the number is better for you

[doug97gxe]

Where did I bash JL? You don't want me to bash JL I could go on for days

JL makes a mediocre product at a premium price .. people who have been around car audio for a while know this.. JL is basically paying $40k for a maxima when an A4 is cheaper


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I've had setup's JL, MB Quartz, Diamond Audio, Rainbow Audio, Image Dynamics, Resonant Engineering and Morel as far as speakers

- JL was ok .. decent drivers.. not as clear and a high price tag
- MB Quartz was also ok .. along the same quality as JL but the Tweeters were muddy
- Diamond Audio .. excellent for the price tag and better clarity than JL
- Rainbow Audio .. by far my favorite of all for components .. quality materials .. excellent sound clarity .. Subwoofers were ok.. more SQ focused didn't go loud enough
- Image Dynamics .. my fav subwoofer .. blows away all competition .. even 1 10" sounded better than 2 12w6's a friend had
- Resonant Engineering .. loved this subwoofer .. not as great as Image Dynamics but my second fav
- Morel ... loved this subwoofer as well.. excellent sound quality .. could be a bit louder

Amplifiers .. i've had JL, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Rainbow Audio, US Amps and Kenwood

- JL decent product .. but at a slightly lower price my friends Zapco amp performed much better
- Kicker .. worked great when i had it.. but soon as it got hot the amp would shut down
- Rockford Fosgate .. the older equipment was great.. new stuff is not as good
- Rainbow Audio.. my fav amp.. super clean.. doesn't run hot and puts out watts as advertised
- US Amps .. this worked great for the application i had.. SQ not as good.. but it did work very good
- Kenwood was ok


I've found a lot of JL Owners i have met got sold into buying it from the Car Audio shop as the best thing since sliced bread and have never actually tried various set ups.. so they don't know any better..

If you've dealt with Car Audio shops for a while you know they like to push whatever they feel like pushing based on which manufacturer is giving them the discount at that point.. those guys are worse than used car salesmen


Remember when people were paying $100 for monster HDMI cables then monoprice came in selling them for $10 .. then you had people saying the monster cable was clearer even though the cables were digital so it was either it worked or didn't .. that's my feeling on JL Audio

Ironically i feel the same about Beats headphones which are also made by monster


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JL speakers are trash. Their sub are ok. Hertz is way better quality. And their JL Amps are way over priced.

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in case anyone missed these JL opinions

[SDV325]

in case anyone missed these JL opinions

To be honest i had a nearly complete JL system, nearly 10 years ago and i was very impressed with how long everything lasted and performed. I bought everything at a massive sale from a local store, paid a $2-3K for everything in my car (all JL and Alpine) and lasted nearly 10 years. Was all sounding great and going strong when i sold the car.

Not sure what their product is like now though, things change all the time.

[doug97gxe]

To be honest i had a nearly complete JL system, nearly 10 years ago and i was very impressed with how long everything lasted and performed. I bought everything at a massive sale from a local store, paid a $2-3K for everything in my car (all JL and Alpine) and lasted nearly 10 years. Was all sounding great and going strong when i sold the car.

Not sure what their product is like now though, things change all the time.

i had a full JL setup back in 1997 .. over time i learned it wasn't as great as i thought it was and it was over priced based on what else is out there

[will13k7]

lc2i ftw. previously I had the oem sub wires plugged into the high-level inputs of the amp, it sounded okay, but frequencies and base levels were all over the place, some songs sounded good, other songs sounded funny. lc2i brought all that missing sound back and even the songs that sounded okay before sounded better. definitely a must for this car.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4416/36133414083_27093cf32a_b.jpg

... somewhat sloppy dgaf install [>_<]
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4353/36133412703_02ee5f12fd_k.jpg

[SDV325]

i had a full JL setup back in 1997 .. over time i learned it wasn't as great as i thought it was and it was over priced based on what else is out there

True. Off the shelf pricing is retarded for what it is, especially now. Trouble is knowing the brands that are not in the "big box" stores like Best Buy etc.

Always though the BO system needed a little more help, just to clarify/cliff notes, the OEM BO amp is strong enough to power a decent sub? Doing this a new enclose is required to hold the larger sub, either drivers side/passenger side? Correct?

[USAF_Danny]

That's a B8.5 in the B8 it will be red row of fuses

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/attachments/audi-a5-s5-rs5-coupe-cabrio-b8-125/7466d1266681341-2010-s5-amp-sub-install-write-up-dscn1092.jpg


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Did anyone else's outlets stop working after they tapped into the fuses? For some reason, none of my sockets work now.

[doug97gxe]

True. Off the shelf pricing is retarded for what it is, especially now. Trouble is knowing the brands that are not in the "big box" stores like Best Buy etc.

Always though the BO system needed a little more help, just to clarify/cliff notes, the OEM BO amp is strong enough to power a decent sub? Doing this a new enclose is required to hold the larger sub, either drivers side/passenger side? Correct?

Depends on your taste in music if you're not into heavy bass the pioneer sub off the BO amp is perfect


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[miztahsparklez]

Did anyone else's outlets stop working after they tapped into the fuses? For some reason, none of my sockets work now.

Probably popped a fuse.


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[USAF_Danny]

Probably popped a fuse.


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Possibly, I think both 15a fuses are good though. I'm going to check regardless. My remote turn on for the amp works fine after tapping into the fuse. I wonder if I have to go into VCDS and reactivate them.

[miztahsparklez]

Possibly, I think both 15a fuses are good though. I'm going to check regardless. My remote turn on for the amp works fine after tapping into the fuse. I wonder if I have to go into VCDS and reactivate them.

Check the fuse holder/tap itself. Some are kind of cheap/crappy and don't touch the metal contacts.

I would also be mindful which direction you install the tap. They are directional.


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[white fish]

That's a B8.5 in the B8 it will be red row of fuses

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/attachments/audi-a5-s5-rs5-coupe-cabrio-b8-125/7466d1266681341-2010-s5-amp-sub-install-write-up-dscn1092.jpg


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So I have B8 non B&O
I dont plan on using the LC2i
I was just going to use the sub output (which is adjustable in the EQ setting on non B&O) tapped in the the high input of my amp

but the remote I confused with
it looks like maybe the second fuse in the Red row you are tapped into
does that turn on the non B&O amp
thanks

[doug97gxe]

So I have B8 non B&O
I dont plan on using the LC2i
I was just going to use the sub output (which is adjustable in the EQ setting on non B&O) tapped in the the high input of my amp

but the remote I confused with
it looks like maybe the second fuse in the Red row you are tapped into
does that turn on the non B&O amp
thanks

not my car.. those red row of fuses are for an aftermarket amp/LOC to get a turn on lead.. all stock amplifiers BO and Non BO already have that worked out elsewhere

[white fish]

So I just put a meter on those fuses and I dont get 12v when radio is on just when car is on

tested the wires going into the amp and when the car "wakes" I can get 5volts on a couple wires

I want my Sub am to be switched on when my radio turns on not the car

[miztahsparklez]

So I just put a meter on those fuses and I dont get 12v when radio is on just when car is on

tested the wires going into the amp and when the car "wakes" I can get 5volts on a couple wires

I want my Sub am to be switched on when my radio turns on not the car

You can't. You can either use a LOC with remote turnon output or if you have b&o you can use a device like the mobridge to get what you want.

The cheap workaround is to use those fuses and ignition must be on.


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[doug97gxe]

You can't. You can either use a LOC with remote turnon output or if you have b&o you can use a device like the mobridge to get what you want.

The cheap workaround is to use those fuses and ignition must be on.


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U can if there is a separate fuse for the radio


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[miztahsparklez]

U can if there is a separate fuse for the radio


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It doesn't work that way. The fuse doesn't turn on and off with the radio. It's only constant and ignition.


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[doug97gxe]

It doesn't work that way. The fuse doesn't turn on and off with the radio. It's only constant and ignition.


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Ahhhh it use to be that way in my maxima I think


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[miztahsparklez]

Ahhhh it use to be that way in my maxima I think


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All cars I know of have stereos that have either constant and/or switched power at the fuse box.

Some cars have amp turn on wires or antenna wires. In either case, you won't find these in the fuse box. They would be behind the stereo. The maxima likely had this.


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[doug97gxe]

All cars I know of have stereos that have either constant and/or switched power at the fuse box.

Some cars have amp turn on wires or antenna wires. In either case, you won't find these in the fuse box. They would be behind the stereo. The maxima likely had this.


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Now that u mention it maybe it was the antenna wire


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[fmzip]

Went with the Pioneer free air. Wasn't a direct fit so I built a spacer. Happy with the tighter bass!

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub1.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub2.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub3.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub4.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub5.JPG

[doug97gxe]

Went with the Pioneer free air. Wasn't a direct fit so I built a spacer. Happy with the tighter bass!

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub1.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub2.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub3.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub4.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub5.JPG

Sweet install


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[cspcrx]

Nice job. How difficult was it to get the rear shelf tray cover off?

[14S4GWM]

^ Two extensive threads on the complete install

[Audi403]

Thank you so much for this! You're the man. I was looking for something like this and it answered every question I had!

[fmzip]

Nice job. How difficult was it to get the rear shelf tray cover off?

Very easy. Followed this thread here:
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/

If I had the ring, it would have saved me a bit of time. Here's a cheap solution:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-Universal-Constructed-Spacer-Decrease/dp/B0013NWD0S

Easiest way, mount the sub to the spacer first. Then attach the MDF by drilling from underneath on the trunk side, securing screws into the mdf through the rear shelf

[cspcrx]

Thanks, sometimes looks easier than does. Removing interior panels always make me nervous, fear of breaking them or tabs that hold them in place.

[fmzip]

No need to worry about breaking them. Once you have all the screws removed fro the rear shelf, you do need to pull pretty hard up on the rear shelf to unclip it.

As far as the speaker grilles, use an interior trim pry tool that is wide like this to minimize the stress while prying up on them. Start by prying on the left hand corner of each grill and work your way to the right. There are no pry clips on the rear of the speaker grilles closet to the glass

https://www.solidrop.net/photo-10/workpro-11pc-car-upholstery-removal-kits-auto-interior-radio-panel-door-clip-windows-trim-removal-installer-pry-repair-tool-set.jpg


https://www.audiworld.com/forums/attachments/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/11979d1284356964-b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-img_0240.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/attachments/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/11977d1284356277-b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-img_0231.jpg

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/attachments/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/11978d1284356327-b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-img_0238.jpg

[xxdunnxx]

For anyone interested: I put in an Image Dynamics IDQ 10" w/ a Rockford Fosgate PBR500X1 amp. Be prepared to widen the hole a bit and cut the cover to fit over the subwoofer.

It sounds AMAZING.

[fmzip]

To be honest i had a nearly complete JL system, nearly 10 years ago and i was very impressed with how long everything lasted and performed. I bought everything at a massive sale from a local store, paid a $2-3K for everything in my car (all JL and Alpine) and lasted nearly 10 years. Was all sounding great and going strong when i sold the car.

Not sure what their product is like now though, things change all the time.

Same here. I was very pleased with all the JL gear that I purchased a decade ago, never an issue.

[Strong Man]

Hi fmzip,

Did you connect Pioneer in application of 8 Om? Is original amp have enough power to push the sub ?

[cspcrx]

Thanks FMZIP.

[fmzip]

Hi fmzip,

Did you connect Pioneer in application of 8 Om? Is original amp have enough power to push the sub ?


EDIT:

I am all about sound quality. I think it sounds very good. My music style is DMB, Jack Johnson, Jason Mraz, Norah Jones, Jazz Sambe, Classic rock. I'm an old dude at 51. No techno here. For the bass heads, this is likely insufficient. [:)]

The sensitivity is very accurate. My sweet spot with the volume at about 20-23 while jamming out, it's plenty of bass for me. For less than $100 and a few hours of time, I am a happy camper.

For reference, my last car had a $3K system in it with the likes of Focal speakers and JL Audio gear and a seperate box for a JL Audio 10w6. This will never compare to a sub in a box, but for sound quality, it's great. Since there is no playing lossless audio with the stock system on my MY2015, I don't feel it's necessary to invest any further into the sound.

My home audio setup is all high end with the likes of Anthem and B&W Nautilus 804's. I mention that to give people a point of reference as everyone's expectations and ears are quite unique. I think with age also comes different desires in a car. I still like to go fast, I still like to enjoy the drive. However I don't want to feel every bump in the road. It's a balance of refinement without getting jarred around. Same mentality with audio. I think if people posted with the age attached it would help others with what they are trying to accomplish. What you like at 23 won't likely be what you desire at 53. [cool]


Thanks FMZIP.


You're very welcome

[Strong Man]

I connected it plus to plus of voice coil1, then plus from that to plus of voice coil2 same with the negative to negative to negative. I'm not sure if this is correct or not. Was planning on posting that here, is this the correct way to wire it?


So , you connected two coils in parallel , and basically right you're running the sub in application of 2Om - http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/TS-W261D4_InstructionManual092216.pdf .
It's possible , but as I know Audi has 8 Om sound system and amplifier was calculated to work for 8 Ohm impedance. It's not really "healthy" for amp.




I am all about sound quality. I think it sounds very good. My music style is DMB, Jack Johnson, Jason Mraz, Norah Jones, Jazz Sambe, Classic rock. I'm an old dude at 51. No techno here. For the bass heads, this is likely insufficient. [:)]


same here




The sensitivity isn't ideal, but for my sweet spot with the volume at about 20-23 while jamming out, it's plenty of bass for me. At low volumes the sensitivity isn't where it needs to be to engage the bass enough. For less than $100 and a few hours of time, I am a happy camper. [cool]

I see...how does it sound around volume 12-16 ?!



For reference, my last car had a $3K system in it with the likes of Focal speakers and JL Audio gear and a seperate box for a JL Audio 10w6. This will never compare to a sub in a box, but for sound quality, it's great. Since there is no playing lossless audio with the stock system on my MY2015, I don't feel it's necessary to invest any further into the sound.

Woow...my favorite speakers are Focal ...I used to sound focal speakers in cars for almost 10-12 years and in home sound system too.





My home audio setup is all high end with the likes of Anthem and B&W Nautilus 804's. I mention that to give people a point of reference as everyone's expectations and ears are quite unique. I think with age also comes different desires in a car. I still like to go fast, I still like to enjoy the drive. However I don't want to feel every bump in the road. It's a balance of refinement without getting jarred around. Same mentality with audio. I think if people posted with the age attached it would help others with what they are trying to accomplish. What you like at 23 won't likely be what you desire at 53. [cool]




You're very welcome

Not bad....my current home setup includes Focal front and rear speakers , Sub Jamo , Front speaker from JBL , Denon pream + Quad power amp , Meridian DAC etc... :)))

[fmzip]

So , you connected two coils in parallel , and basically right you're running the sub in application of 2Om - http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/TS-W261D4_InstructionManual092216.pdf .
It's possible , but as I know Audi has 8 Om sound system and amplifier was calculated to work for 8 Ohm impedance. It's not really "healthy" for amp.



I see the err of my wiring. Edited the above post to not confuse anyone.

[fmzip]

Wired for 8 ohms:

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub9.JPG

This is my settings and the music quality sounds excellent at every volume. Plenty of accurate bass from a volume level of 15-28! 320KB MP3's sound great, CD's that much better.

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub6.JPG
http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub7.JPGhttp://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub8.JPG

[Strong Man]

fmzip , so you did connect at 8 Om which sounds more reasonable

BTW I noticed that you're running from SD card . Try (if you have this option) to run from iPod/iPhone wired connection. I'm using my old iPhone 4 for this, and sound quality is much better than SD Card.

P.S. Can you share your source where you got it in less $100 ?:)

[fmzip]

fmzip , so you did connect at 8 Om which sounds more reasonable

BTW I noticed that you're running from SD card . Try (if you have this option) to run from iPod/iPhone wired connection. I'm using my old iPhone 4 for this, and sound quality is much better than SD Card.

P.S. Can you share your source where you got it in less $100 ?:)

It's $45 now, was just $57 last week!:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8B7CBW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Picked up the Dynamat here for $24:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10425-Dynamat-XTREME-Wedge-PACK-4-Sq-Ft-32-x-18-4-FT/230606838862?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

And get one of these to save time for $6:

https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-Universal-Constructed-Spacer-Decrease/dp/B0013NWD0S

$75 and a few hours DONE!

Interesting on you mentioning the Iphone.....I have a spare one that I planned to run off the plug in the glovebox but everything I read said the audio quality was worse. I would think that would be true as it is going DA twice? Does the phone turn on by itself when you power up the car? I like the convenience of the 128GB card in the slot with playlists. If it's convenient as the SD card, I may give it a go

[jlaudio]

Interesting on you mentioning the Iphone.....I have a spare one that I planned to run off the plug in the glovebox but everything I read said the audio quality was worse. I would think that would be true as it is going DA twice? Does the phone turn on by itself when you power up the car? I like the convenience of the 128GB card in the slot with playlists. If it's convenient as the SD card, I may give it a go

i considered going the old iphone route until i remembered you have to deal with itunes. can't stand itunes. drag and drop with the SD card is the way to go.

[fmzip]

i considered going the old iphone route until i remembered you have to deal with itunes. can't stand itunes. drag and drop with the SD card is the way to go.

I read this regarding the conversion issue of the iphone and opted for the SD card with all my lossless files ripped to MP3's at 320Kb :

http://www.myaudiq5.com/index.php/topic/1531-sd-card-sound/

I never did a side by side comparison between both the Iphone and SD card for sound comparison though

[xxdunnxx]

This is my settings and the music quality sounds excellent at every volume. Plenty of accurate bass from a volume level of 15-28!

You don't notice distorted highs after around 20? I never push more than 24.

[Strong Man]

It's $45 now, was just $57 last week!:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8B7CBW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Picked up the Dynamat here for $24:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10425-Dynamat-XTREME-Wedge-PACK-4-Sq-Ft-32-x-18-4-FT/230606838862?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

And get one of these to save time for $6:

https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-Universal-Constructed-Spacer-Decrease/dp/B0013NWD0S

Thank you...I've already found it too.




I would think that would be true as it is going DA twice? Does the phone turn on by itself when you power up the car? I like the convenience of the 128GB card in the slot with playlists. If it's convenient as the SD card, I may give it a go

No , It isn't correct . If you're using 30 pin connetor the audio from iPhone already comes after internal iPhone DAC - https://i.stack.imgur.com/39v15.jpg . The internal iPhone DAC is Cirrus Logic 338S0589 - it's the high quility DAC (http://soundexpert.org/news/-/blogs/sound-quality-of-iphone-4), much better than internal DAC of Audi system.

[waxxonMTL]

that is very interesting.. I'm using SD since day 1.. maybe I should buy myself a ipod just for that very reason. For me, all I did is sound deadener 80mil on door, trunk ( total of about 30sq feet) + JL IB10 ( one of the very few TRUE infinite baffle sub out there). I listen to hip hop and it's fine.

Sure it's not like my 3 amp Arc KS combo with CDT 12 in a custom sub, buuuut for ease of fitting/price/no trunk spakce taken, I'm very happy.

[Cooper993]

Went with the Pioneer free air. Wasn't a direct fit so I built a spacer. Happy with the tighter bass!

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/sub1.JPG


I looked on Pioneer's site and that sub isn't listed as free air.

Is there another version?

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Champion+Series/TS-W261D4#SealedPortedEnclosureSpecifications

[fmzip]

that is very interesting.. I'm using SD since day 1.. maybe I should buy myself a ipod just for that very reason. For me, all I did is sound deadener 80mil on door, trunk ( total of about 30sq feet) + JL IB10 ( one of the very few TRUE infinite baffle sub out there). I listen to hip hop and it's fine.

Sure it's not like my 3 amp Arc KS combo with CDT 12 in a custom sub, buuuut for ease of fitting/price/no trunk spakce taken, I'm very happy.

Do you have a link on the exact sub you used? Is there an 8 ohm version? Where exactly was the sound deadening installed? Front doors and entire trunk?


I looked on Pioneer's site and that sub isn't listed as free air.

Is there another version?

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Champion+Series/TS-W261D4#SealedPortedEnclosureSpecifications

Correct, it's not a "true" free air, that's the one that other have used in their Audi's which is why I went with it. "Free of enclosure" would be more accurate

This is the subowoofer that was once sold by Pioneer and replaced by the one I used, it was listed as both free air and enclosed apps:

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Champion+Series/TS-W260D4

Crutchfield lists it as the replacement:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-7MGEq71SWO8/p_130TW260D4/Pioneer-TS-W260D4.html

Here's an image comparison:

https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/productimages/zoom/tsw260d4_alt1.jpg
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/PUSA/Car%20Electronics/Product%20Images/Subwoofers/TS-W261D4/TS-W261D4_rear_large.jpg

[fmzip]

Thank you...I've already found it too.



No , It isn't correct . If you're using 30 pin connetor the audio from iPhone already comes after internal iPhone DAC - https://i.stack.imgur.com/39v15.jpg . The internal iPhone DAC is Cirrus Logic 338S0589 - it's the high quility DAC (http://soundexpert.org/news/-/blogs/sound-quality-of-iphone-4), much better than internal DAC of Audi system.

charging up the spare Iphone! Going to try it out

[Strong Man]

charging up the spare Iphone! Going to try it out

Try to have iPhone 4/4s ...one more thing :before you're going to compare make sure that you have the same setting for SD Card and "iPhone" sources.

[fmzip]

Try to have iPhone 4/4s ...one more thing :before you're going to compare make sure that you have the same setting for SD Card and "iPhone" sources.

Only have a 5s, will try it with a 30pin to lightning adapter

[xxdunnxx]

http://www.jlaudio.com/marine-audio-subwoofer-drivers-m-series-infinite-baffle-subwoofers

They do make ID subwoofers, but they are commonly used in boats.

Most good subwoofers are capable of being used in IB. That is why I used an Image Dynamics IDQ for it. Those are commonly used in IB situations.

[fmzip]

You don't notice distorted highs after around 20? I never push more than 24.

No, not at all. I can go to 28. Could be how the music is ripped. All of my MP3's are ripped to 89db @ 320Kbp when I convert them from FLAC

Here a video of it at 28 toward the end. I was trying to show the vibration of the rear view to give an idea of sound pressure but it's not too visible


http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/music.MOV

[fmzip]

Just stumbled across this "audiophile" setting....

I'll try it

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/b-o-settings-for-audiophiles.255366/

[fmzip]

Try to have iPhone 4/4s ...one more thing :before you're going to compare make sure that you have the same setting for SD Card and "iPhone" sources.


Question for you...in MMI, what do you have the input signal dial set at for the Iphone through the AMI cable? If I leave it a zero, the output level is way lower than the SD Card. At first listen, there is definitely an improvement in audio quality, will need to load up a bunch of music to test this out.

[doug97gxe]

Wait do you have a 1000 watt sub powered by an 80watt factory output ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fmzip]

Wait do you have a 1000 watt sub powered by an 80watt factory output ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure who you are posing that question to.

The Pioneer I used specs are:

power range: 50-400 watts RMS (200 watts RMS per coil)
peak power handling: 1,200 watt


Most Importantly:

sensitivity: 93 dB

[Strong Man]

Question for you...in MMI, what do you have the input signal dial set at for the Iphone through the AMI cable? If I leave it a zero, the output level is way lower than the SD Card. At first listen, there is definitely an improvement in audio quality, will need to load up a bunch of music to test this out.

I told you :))) Now I have a question for you too. B&O is well balanced system with + and - , and I'm frick of SQ as you...So , now when you're running from better audio source (as well try some original CD) how the sub sounds?! Isn't ahead of MF and HF ?!

Here are mine settings :

https://a.d-cd.net/cd55901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/fa35901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/d7f5901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/db0d901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/bf8d901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/212d901s-960.jpg

[fmzip]

^^^ The sub sounds that much better. Everything is tighter and cleaner. The issue I have now is the Iphone has a 16GB capacity and I have 64GB of MP3's , just bought a 64GB Iphone 4s off ebay for $60 :)

Not sure what this means "Isn't ahead of MF and HF ?! "

[Strong Man]

^

Not sure what this means "Isn't ahead of MF and HF ?! "

MF- mid frequency
HF - High frequency

I mean doesn't the sub sounds much louder then another part of system ?

[fmzip]

MF- mid frequency
HF - High frequency

I mean doesn't the sub sounds much louder then another part of system ?

I'll do some critical listening tomorrow.

I so wish we could use lossless files.....

[Strong Man]

I so wish we could use lossless files.....

you can try some original CD...I have collection about 170-200 original CDs :) and still buying new CDs...I'm psycho :))) I was trying to avoid to do some changes in car audio system...because of you I gave up :)))) crazy :)))

[fmzip]

you can try some original CD...I have collection about 170-200 original CDs :) and still buying new CDs...I'm psycho :))) I was trying to avoid to do some changes in car audio system...because of you I gave up :)))) crazy :)))


I was done too....but somehow I just bought a 64GB Iphone. We are obsessed :)

[joeis8salt]

Great thread. Was about to buy an amp and amp kit but now I'm going to go with the sub first and see.

Quick question on the SD and the head unit. I don't have nav or 3G as a head unit. Is there a restriction on the SD card size for the system to read the card properly? I remember in my older mk5 there was a restriction like 2GB or something like that.

[doug97gxe]

Not sure who you are posing that question to.

The Pioneer I used specs are:

power range: 50-400 watts RMS (200 watts RMS per coil)
peak power handling: 1,200 watt


Most Importantly:

sensitivity: 93 dB

Ahhh peak.. I saw the picture and had that thought.. my sub is 1000 RMS so I thought that was similar


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[risc427]

Quick question on the SD and the head unit. I don't have nav or 3G as a head unit. Is there a restriction on the SD card size for the system to read the card properly? I remember in my older mk5 there was a restriction like 2GB or something like that

I believe the documented limit is 32GB per card. (2 slots available) I vaguely recall reading some folks stating they used 64GB cards (at capacity) without issue. The limitations are certainly higher than the old RNS days.

[Strong Man]

I'll do some critical listening tomorrow.

I so wish we could use lossless files.....

Any updates since ?!

[fmzip]

Great thread. Was about to buy an amp and amp kit but now I'm going to go with the sub first and see.

Quick question on the SD and the head unit. I don't have nav or 3G as a head unit. Is there a restriction on the SD card size for the system to read the card properly? I remember in my older mk5 there was a restriction like 2GB or something like that.


I read that there was a limitation too. Reason being, Windows doesn't let you format a card over 32GB to FAT 32. In order for the SD card to work, it has to be formatted to FAT 32 using a third party software. This one worked rather easily for me to format my 128GB SD card to Fat 32:

http://www.ridgecrop.demon.co.uk/guiformat.exe


Any updates since ?!

Want to listen to both sources for a few days before I report back...Don't spend a lot of time in the car ;)

[Audi403]

Great thread, just have a couple questions I was hoping someone can help me with. I'm going to be running a JL 12W6v3 with the JL Slash V3 amp. This amp has the ability to use high level input, so I wasn't planning on using a LOC. I've read in this thread that the LC2 is also used for restoring low bass levels that the factory head-unit may cut levels too. Is this a true statement for a non-B&O B8 S4? Will I be losing sound quality by not using an LOC?

This is the amp I have. I ordered the remote bass control knob with the amp which I plan on running to my center console. Now my concern is, if I do get the LC2, would I want to use it's optional bass level remote or the one for my amp? It seems pretty redundant.
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/product_image/3f64dee8d9c4a6e327b586dbb745b159.jpg?1507165336

[Audi403]

Great thread, just have a couple questions I was hoping someone can help me with. I'm going to be running a JL 12W6v3 with the JL Slash V3 amp. This amp has the ability to use high level input, so I wasn't planning on using a LOC. I've read in this thread that the LC2 is also used for restoring low bass levels that the factory head-unit may cut levels too. Is this a true statement for a non-B&O B8 S4? Will I be losing sound quality by not using an LOC?

This is the amp I have. I ordered the remote bass control knob with the amp which I plan on running to my center console. Now my concern is, if I do get the LC2, would I want to use it's optional bass level remote or the one for my amp? It seems pretty redundant.
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/product_image/3f64dee8d9c4a6e327b586dbb745b159.jpg?1507165336

If anyone has some information on this that would be great. Here is some info I found on another forum from a professional who has done hundreds of installs using OEM headunits:

"always go for an amp with high level inputs when dealing with OEM integration. external LOC's can generate noise and ground loops - avoid them whenever possible. besides, they are extra cost and wiring hassle that - spend that money on a better amp"

"you don't need a LOC when you have high level inputs. on low quality amplifiers, maybe the high level inputs aren't the best. but one thing to consider is that some head unit outputs are "balanced" or "bridged" for more power. a LOC will convert to unbalanced, but some amps can use that balanced signal for both noise rejection and increased gain. there are too many variables to make a general statement, but the take away message is that high level inputs in the amps are usually a better option than external."

[doug97gxe]

If anyone has some information on this that would be great. Here is some info I found on another forum from a professional who has done hundreds of installs using OEM headunits:

"always go for an amp with high level inputs when dealing with OEM integration. external LOC's can generate noise and ground loops - avoid them whenever possible. besides, they are extra cost and wiring hassle that - spend that money on a better amp"

"you don't need a LOC when you have high level inputs. on low quality amplifiers, maybe the high level inputs aren't the best. but one thing to consider is that some head unit outputs are "balanced" or "bridged" for more power. a LOC will convert to unbalanced, but some amps can use that balanced signal for both noise rejection and increased gain. there are too many variables to make a general statement, but the take away message is that high level inputs in the amps are usually a better option than external."

take Audio professionals advice with a grain of salt.. most of them have an ulterior motive or brained washed by someone else. check LOC like the PAC will cause noice and ground loops.. the LC2i is far best LOC you can buy when adding a sub, many here have used it .. i personally have used it and have had no issues... i will not beat a dead horse with a stick and not share my JL opinion

[Audi403]

take Audio professionals advice with a grain of salt.. most of them have an ulterior motive or brained washed by someone else. check LOC like the PAC will cause noice and ground loops.. the LC2i is far best LOC you can buy when adding a sub, many here have used it .. i personally have used it and have had no issues... i will not beat a dead horse with a stick and not share my JL opinion

No one cares about your JL opinion and that's not what's being asked. The question is regarding the quality of using high level inputs vs LOC.

Obvious disadvantages of LOC:
- Extra Wiring
- Additional costs

Possible advantage:
- Could possibly restore some bass levels that are cut from factory headunits

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/209357588-Differential-Balanced-Inputs?mobile_site=true

This article explains how JL's differential inputs work and why you don't need a line out converter. I emailed JL support and they said they recommend only using a line out converter if the speaker output is greater than 8v.

Does anyone know what the speaker level output is for a B8 S4 with non b&o?

[doug97gxe]

No one cares about your JL opinion and that's not what's being asked. The question is regarding the quality of using high level inputs vs LOC.

Obvious disadvantages of LOC:
- Extra Wiring
- Additional costs

Possible advantage:
- Could possibly restore some bass levels that are cut from factory headunits

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/209357588-Differential-Balanced-Inputs?mobile_site=true

This article explains how JL's differential inputs work and why you don't need a line out converter. I emailed JL support and they said they recommend only using a line out converter if the speaker output is greater than 8v.

Does anyone know what the speaker level output is for a B8 S4 with non b&o?

I actually answered you question... no need to get sensitive about your product choice

[Audi403]

I actually answered you question... no need to get sensitive about your product choice

You literally did not answer any of my questions. My question was regarding high level Inputs vs Line out converters. You telling me you use a LOC and have no problems, does not compare this to high level inputs and does not mention and pro's or cons of this option.

The thing I've found with forums is one person will so something a certain way, and most people will follow blind. I'm more interested in facts and certainly am not interested in people's opinions on brand choices because that's not what this is about.

[doug97gxe]

You literally did not answer any of my questions. My question was regarding high level Inputs vs Line out converters. You telling me you use a LOC and have no problems, does not compare this to high level inputs and does not mention and pro's or cons of this option.

The thing I've found with forums is one person will so something a certain way, and most people will follow blind. I'm more interested in facts and certainly am not interested in people's opinions on brand choices because that's not what this is about.

unfortunately you maybe on your own in this journey of LOC vs high input amplifiers .. i believe most people do both.. my experience is based on using 3 LOC and which one worked best. Good Luck on your travels

[fmzip]

I had a JL Amp with the bass control knob you mention. I also had an old school Phoenix Gold Titanium amp with a similar function. However, the Phoenix gold would dial up and down the output of the sub, the JL would act more like a bass control knob instead. The Phoenix Gold approach was superior to JL's approach, it allowed you to adjust the output up or down 20db. Is this the type of control the LC2i offers? If so, they are not one in the same



Since you already have the AMP, get yourself a cheap meter and measure the voltage to see if it exceeds what JL reccomends. Their knob is helpful to add more bass but it's not the most ideal approach. If I could have one knob though I'd want one for output. The JL knob doesn't do that

[white fish]

Im using an Alpine MRV-M500 hooked up to my Non B&O with JL 10W0 in the rear deck
I m not completely happy
started by connecting all 4 line levels to the single sub wire = at 80hz gain in the middle db at 0 it would "clip" very easy
cut 2 of the line level inputs = lowed to 60hz gain in middle still "clips" but not as easy

Im real issuse is that it "Pops" when I start the car
this amp uses the high levels as remote turn on

[fmzip]

Im using an Alpine MRV-M500 hooked up to my Non B&O with JL 10W0 in the rear deck
I m not completely happy
started by connecting all 4 line levels to the single sub wire = at 80hz gain in the middle db at 0 it would "clip" very easy
cut 2 of the line level inputs = lowed to 60hz gain in middle still "clips" but not as easy

Im real issuse is that it "Pops" when I start the car
this amp uses the high levels as remote turn on

You need something like this to add a delay to eliminate the pop:

http://www.davidnavone.com/cat_amp.htm

[Audi403]

I had a JL Amp with the bass control knob you mention. I also had an old school Phoenix Gold Titanium amp with a similar function. However, the Phoenix gold would dial up and down the output of the sub, the JL would act more like a bass control knob instead. The Phoenix Gold approach was superior to JL's approach, it allowed you to adjust the output up or down 20db. Is this the type of control the LC2i offers? If so, they are not one in the same



Since you already have the AMP, get yourself a cheap meter and measure the voltage to see if it exceeds what JL reccomends. Their knob is helpful to add more bass but it's not the most ideal approach. If I could have one knob though I'd want one for output. The JL knob doesn't do that

Oh thanks for that, I wasn't aware that's how the JL remote bass control worked. I do have a meter at home but haven't started the install yet, currently waiting for my goodies to arrive from JL. I've wired 3 sets of subs before but it was always to an aftermarket headunit with pre-amp outs, hence my lack of knowledge regarding LOC's and high level inputs.

[Audi403]

To anyone who put an aftermarket sub in a box in the trunk, did you leave the stock sub mounted or remove it? Wondering if removing it will make the new subwoofer more audible, or cause extra rattles in the rear deck. Planning to dynamat that area as well...

[ambesolman]

I have a '14 s4 with b&o. It's by far the best factory system I've had, but like y'all, am thinking about adding a sub.
Instead of eliminating the factory sub when installing a new one, is it possible to use it as a dedicated midbass sub? I know you'd need someway to split the sub signal and apply filters to keep the deeper bass out of the factory sub, but anyone know exactly how one would go about doing this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[14S4GWM]

I have a '14 s4 with b&o. It's by far the best factory system I've had, but like y'all, am thinking about adding a sub.
Instead of eliminating the factory sub when installing a new one, is it possible to use it as a dedicated midbass sub? I know you'd need someway to split the sub signal and apply filters to keep the deeper bass out of the factory sub, but anyone know exactly how one would go about doing this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dont waste your time, not worth it at all

[Strong Man]

Want to listen to both sources for a few days before I report back...Don't spend a lot of time in the car ;)

Hi there,
Still waiting for your results:)

[fmzip]

Hi there,
Still waiting for your results:)


Spent 4 hours in the car yesterday :)

I think it sounds great. The sub doesn't overpower anything. It seems to blend perfect with the factory setup.

[fmzip]

To anyone who put an aftermarket sub in a box in the trunk, did you leave the stock sub mounted or remove it? Wondering if removing it will make the new subwoofer more audible, or cause extra rattles in the rear deck. Planning to dynamat that area as well...

I doubt it would make it more audible the paper woofer isn't going to block the sound waves.

However, there could be some rattling from the deck as there is a wire harness that goes across it. It's just clipped in there somewhat loosely.

I would think that you will likely hear some rattles with a nice sub box, the Audi itself seems a bit loosely manufactured to some degree. My dash rattles without much road interference with the stereo off ;)

[ambesolman]

Dont waste your time, not worth it at all

Can you please elaborate a little? I'm more of a home theater guy but I've always had aftermarket systems in my cars. I'm on avsforum and have met a bunch of guys that have added midbass subs to their systems with good results. It would seem that any amp with high and low pass filters would be able to achieve this. Has anyone tried it?


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[fmzip]

Can you please elaborate a little? I'm more of a home theater guy but I've always had aftermarket systems in my cars. I'm on avsforum and have met a bunch of guys that have added midbass subs to their systems with good results. It would seem that any amp with high and low pass filters would be able to achieve this. Has anyone tried it?


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I'm an audiophile myself and an AVS forum follower too. As I have floor standing B&W 804's at home, I never felt the need to search for mid bass. Now I guess I am going to have to investigate just out of curiosity. Are people looking at mid bass solutions because they use sound bars or satellite speakers?

My feeling is the B&O is pretty much all mid bass, it's the low level, hard hitting bass, that is missing to my ear/chest ;)

[ambesolman]

I'm an audiophile myself and an AVS forum follower too. As I have floor standing B&W 804's at home, I never felt the need to search for mid bass. Now I guess I am going to have to investigate just out of curiosity. Are people looking at mid bass solutions because they use sound bars or satellite speakers?

My feeling is the B&O is pretty much all mid bass, it's the low level, hard hitting bass, that is missing to my ear/chest ;)

With these people who've fallen down the rabbit hole, there's no soundbars or small speakers around for miles. It's all about multiple subs and using some in the near field to give more impact and tactile response, more "chest slam." Here's a link to one thread...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/2434250-nearfield-ported-mbm-increased-mid-bass-tactile-response.html


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[fmzip]

With these people who've fallen down the rabbit hole, there's no soundbars or small speakers around for miles. It's all about multiple subs and using some in the near field to give more impact and tactile response, more "chest slam." Here's a link to one thread...

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/2434250-nearfield-ported-mbm-increased-mid-bass-tactile-response.html



Thanks for the link :)

I'm still at 5.1....I purposely have learned to avoid the latest and greatest. :)

[cspcrx]

To anyone who put an aftermarket sub in a box in the trunk, did you leave the stock sub mounted or remove it? Wondering if removing it will make the new subwoofer more audible, or cause extra rattles in the rear deck. Planning to dynamat that area as well...

I spoke to 2 installers and they confirmed my thoughts and that was to pull it. It would act as a port into the cabin. They said you might notice the benefit more at lower volume levels. Sound is air moving so the easier that air can move to your ear the more you will pick up on it. Now, longer sound waves, like those from a sub can more easily go through materials and wont reflect as much as those from say a tweeter.

My plan is to pull the sub out of its housing and reinstall the housing to act as a port into the passenger compartment.

[Strong Man]

Spent 4 hours in the car yesterday :)

I think it sounds great. The sub doesn't overpower anything. It seems to blend perfect with the factory setup.

Thanks Man ...I've already ordered the all set

[ambesolman]

Thanks for the link :)

I'm still at 5.1....I purposely have learned to avoid the latest and greatest. :)

So I guess you bought your S4 preloved too?


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[fmzip]

So I guess you bought your S4 preloved too?


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Absolutely!

Car had just 12,000 miles....Sticker new $58,000...$38,000 for a years worth of miles is the way to go!

I was once the guy who had a new car every 5 years, also was the guy who bought the first 50 inch plasma TV for $10,000. Live and learn, the nest egg becomes more important as time goes on [race]

[Strong Man]

Thanks for the link :)

I'm still at 5.1....I purposely have learned to avoid the latest and greatest. :)

Me 2 !

[doug97gxe]

I'm an audiophile myself and an AVS forum follower too. As I have floor standing B&W 804's at home, I never felt the need to search for mid bass. Now I guess I am going to have to investigate just out of curiosity. Are people looking at mid bass solutions because they use sound bars or satellite speakers?

My feeling is the B&O is pretty much all mid bass, it's the low level, hard hitting bass, that is missing to my ear/chest ;)

It’s all mid bass when I disconnected my sub before I installed my aftermarket sub I didn’t notice much of a difference


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[ambesolman]

Absolutely!

Car had just 12,000 miles....Sticker new $58,000...$38,000 for a years worth of miles is the way to go!

I was once the guy who had a new car every 5 years, also was the guy who bought the first 50 inch plasma TV for $10,000. Live and learn, the nest egg becomes more important as time goes on [race]

Same here. Found a clean '14 a couple months ago with 34k for $32k plus the all important extended warranty that gives me another 5yrs or up to 125k mi. Had to drive a few hrs out of state, but too good to pass up, plus it still kinda smells new.
The warranty wasn't cheap, but I had a '02 b5 s4 with a warranty that paid for itself four times so...
How's that plasma working out?


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[Audi403]

Getting ready to dynamat the entire trunk. Spent some time today removing all the panels. Would it be worth it to write up a DIY? I couldn't find one so it took me awhile to remove all the pieces, but I definitely know some tricks now. Pictures of the removed panels are attached.

[miztahsparklez]

Getting ready to dynamat the entire trunk. Spent some time today removing all the panels. Would it be worth it to write up a DIY? I couldn't find one so it took me awhile to remove all the pieces, but I definitely know some tricks now. Pictures of the removed panels are attached.I still need to do the trunk lid.. lol. Let me know how it goes.

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[fmzip]

Getting ready to dynamat the entire trunk. Spent some time today removing all the panels. Would it be worth it to write up a DIY? I couldn't find one so it took me awhile to remove all the pieces, but I definitely know some tricks now. Pictures of the removed panels are attached.

Definitely! And whatever you do, attach the pics like you did or self host them so they are here permanently please :)

[doug97gxe]

I still need to do the trunk lid.. lol. Let me know how it goes.

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are you getting rattles? even with 1000 watts i didn't have any truck rattle.. i only did my rear deck

[miztahsparklez]

are you getting rattles? even with 1000 watts i didn't have any truck rattle.. i only did my rear deckNope, not doing it for rattles. Moreso to keep the sound in and reinforce the trunk lid. I'm running two 10s infinite baffle so the trunk is my box.

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[B8_Dude97]

Getting ready to dynamat the entire trunk. Spent some time today removing all the panels. Would it be worth it to write up a DIY? I couldn't find one so it took me awhile to remove all the pieces, but I definitely know some tricks now. Pictures of the removed panels are attached.

Just curious to kill a rumor if you could answer this question. With all that trim removed you think you squeeze the headliner out? Assuming I also tied wire around it and gave it a curve?


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[Cooper993]

Installed the Pioneer based on the feedback of fmzip.

Got the speaker, Dynamat and 2 mounting rings on Amazon for $90.

Although the speaker still needs time to break in, the initial overall feedback is positive.

Some additional observations:

I tried using two rings (3/4" each) but it was too high in the front. So only used one ring (for now)
The speaker hangs down very low (~4 1/2"). More than I wanted
There is room to raise the back part of the speaker a few inches to make it sit level in the rear shelf
If I get motivated, I may make a custom angled ring to bring it up a bit
The sounds improvements are very contingent on the music used. Maybe because the woofer is still new, but it requires tracks with deep bass to notice the difference. For other tracks, the improvements are much less notable.


Overall I am happy with it except for the large size of the speaker in the trunk

[Audi403]

Definitely! And whatever you do, attach the pics like you did or self host them so they are here permanently please :)

Will do. I'm going to dynamat the trunk lid when I get home and put it back together. Might need a couple more pictures then I'll write something up for both the trunk lid and the trunk itself.

[Strong Man]

Installed the Pioneer based on the feedback of fmzip.

Got the speaker, Dynamat and 2 mounting rings on Amazon for $90.

Although the speaker still needs time to break in, the initial overall feedback is positive.

Some additional observations:

I tried using two rings (3/4" each) but it was too high in the front. So only used one ring (for now)
The speaker hangs down very low (~4 1/2"). More than I wanted
There is room to raise the back part of the speaker a few inches to make it sit level in the rear shelf
If I get motivated, I may make a custom angled ring to bring it up a bit
The sounds improvements are very contingent on the music used. Maybe because the woofer is still new, but it requires tracks with deep bass to notice the difference. For other tracks, the improvements are much less notable.


Overall I am happy with it except for the large size of the speaker in the trunk

thanks for your feedback...I'm on that way too

[b8s4me]

Can anyone recommend a better sub and door tweeter upgrade for non-B&O system? My driver door tweeter is starting to "scratch" and I figure I may as well replace with a better one. I am not well-versed with audio at all but have wired in systems for other people before.

I'm not looking for a spectacular difference for the sub as I know I'm restricted by the crappy amp, but anything is surely better than the stock unit.

[fmzip]

Same here. Found a clean '14 a couple months ago with 34k for $32k plus the all important extended warranty that gives me another 5yrs or up to 125k mi. Had to drive a few hrs out of state, but too good to pass up, plus it still kinda smells new.
The warranty wasn't cheap, but I had a '02 b5 s4 with a warranty that paid for itself four times so...
How's that plasma working out?


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I put that plasma curbside 4 years ago....killed me to think what a gigantic waste of money that was!

[fmzip]

Installed the Pioneer based on the feedback of fmzip.

Got the speaker, Dynamat and 2 mounting rings on Amazon for $90.

Although the speaker still needs time to break in, the initial overall feedback is positive.

Some additional observations:

I tried using two rings (3/4" each) but it was too high in the front. So only used one ring (for now)
The speaker hangs down very low (~4 1/2"). More than I wanted
There is room to raise the back part of the speaker a few inches to make it sit level in the rear shelf
If I get motivated, I may make a custom angled ring to bring it up a bit
The sounds improvements are very contingent on the music used. Maybe because the woofer is still new, but it requires tracks with deep bass to notice the difference. For other tracks, the improvements are much less notable.


Overall I am happy with it except for the large size of the speaker in the trunk

Totally agree with your assessment. There is no doubt that the inability to control the output of the sub independently of just the bass control knob will leave you wanting on some tracks. The bass knob is just that, a bass level control, not an output level control that would be highly desirable.


Point being folks, it's a $90 upgrade, not a system level fix. I scratch my head for the people think the B&O system is terrible for the $800 upgrade. For $890 installed, I highly doubt I could create a better overall sounding system than what this is. A mediocore headunit and cheesy amp would cost me that alone with zero dollars for labor. Would it sound better?? Absolutely not.

[Audi403]

Waiting patiently for my amp and sub to arrive 😏
DIY for how to remove all the trunk trim with lots of pictures soon to come...

[fmzip]

^^^ nice work!

[Mr. Spectacular]

Whoa! Never knew about this thread! Honored to be among the options listed at the start regarding boxes. I've gotten a link together for people outside the forum community to find them in the future. Since I'm just getting it up and going, and to help me get acquainted to this new system, I've got them listed at the original forum cost for the remainder of the month. Feel free to check the link if interested!!

New Link (https://www.akrucarbon.com/product-page/audi-b8-5-a-s-rs-4-5-10-driver-side-sub-box)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171013/a0970176f704bb9115790b73d04441a8.jpg

Cheers!

[Dirt]

Whoa! Never knew about this thread! Honored to be among the options listed at the start regarding boxes. I've gotten a link together for people outside the forum community to find them in the future. Since I'm just getting it up and going, and to help me get acquainted to this new system, I've got them listed at the original forum cost for the remainder of the month. Feel free to check the link if interested!!

New Link (https://www.akrucarbon.com/product-page/audi-b8-5-a-s-rs-4-5-10-driver-side-sub-box)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171013/a0970176f704bb9115790b73d04441a8.jpg

Cheers!

If anyone is looking for a sub box, I highly endorse this option. I’m running this same box and am very happy with every aspect. The box is well made, fits perfectly in the cubby, and looks great.

Thanks again brother. I smile every time I turn things up. :)

[fmzip]

^^^

$549 is for the carpeted box, is that correct?

[Mr. Spectacular]

If anyone is looking for a sub box, I highly endorse this option. I’m running this same box and am very happy with every aspect. The box is well made, fits perfectly in the cubby, and looks great.

Thanks again brother. I smile every time I turn things up. :)
Thank you for the kind words! Glad to have contributed to this enjoyment!!!


^^^

$549 is for the carpeted box, is that correct?
Correct

[fmzip]

Thank you for the kind words! Glad to have contributed to this enjoyment!!!


Correct

What is the difference between yours, and this one for $199?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A4-B8-Sedan-Fit-Box-subwoofer-enclosure-/112566109961?hash=item1a35768709:g:fIkAAOSw2gxYpDQ v&vxp=mtr

[doug97gxe]

One is MDF and the other is fiberglass ... I can’t tell you the sound quality or durability difference or sound volume diff


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[Mr. Spectacular]

What is the difference...

Doug's got it right. Now obviously I can't speak to the specifics of that box b/c I didn't make it, nor do i know the specifics so keep that in mind as I mention the following...

Most significant differences:
- The ones I make provide a different (what I'd consider better) aesthetic. The baffle sits flush with the trim in the trunk. That Polish box does not. If one cares for the install to appear as clean and unobtrusive as possible, there's a clear, significant difference.
- I build them rock solid, under vacuum, using a mold for consistency. They feature a gelcoated exterior and take full advantage of high-grade epoxy resin with optimized fiber to resin ratios to increase strength and reduce weight.
- They're fully sealed; twice internally and twice externally. Far fewer seams than the Polish box = less opportunity for leaks
- I know mine sounds great. You can check the original thread and listen to our own community's opinion to support that statement
- They come with polyfil
- Again, don't know how the Polish one fits into the cubby, but I know mine was designed to allow for the internals within that cubby (stock amp, etc) to still be relocated within that same space.
- It's also designed to fit through the cubby hole without having to remove the trim in the trunk.
- Fiberglass vs MDF, Fiberglass takes much more time to construct which is why it's often pricier. It's also lighter.
- Made here by me. I stand by them 100%..can't speak to the service of the one made in Poland.

[fmzip]

Doug's got it right. Now obviously I can't speak to the specifics of that box b/c I didn't make it, nor do i know the specifics so keep that in mind as I mention the following...

Most significant differences:
- The ones I make provide a different (what I'd consider better) aesthetic. The baffle sits flush with the trim in the trunk. That Polish box does not. If one cares for the install to appear as clean and unobtrusive as possible, there's a clear, significant difference.
- I build them rock solid, under vacuum, using a mold for consistency. They feature a gelcoated exterior and take full advantage of high-grade epoxy resin with optimized fiber to resin ratios to increase strength and reduce weight.
- They're fully sealed; twice internally and twice externally. Far fewer seams than the Polish box = less opportunity for leaks
- I know mine sounds great. You can check the original thread and listen to our own community's opinion to support that statement
- They come with polyfil
- Again, don't know how the Polish one fits into the cubby, but I know mine was designed to allow for the internals within that cubby (stock amp, etc) to still be relocated within that same space.
- It's also designed to fit through the cubby hole without having to remove the trim in the trunk.
- Fiberglass vs MDF, Fiberglass takes much more time to construct which is why it's often pricier. It's also lighter.
- Made here by me. I stand by them 100%..can't speak to the service of the one made in Poland.

Thanks for explanation. What's the exact volume of your box?

[Mr. Spectacular]

Thanks for explanation. What's the exact volume of your box?
No problem.

~.6ft^3

[fmzip]

Just ordered a pair of Audison Voce 3 inch midrange speakers for the dash.....Can't leave well enough alone :)

Has anyone replaced the front door speakers? Looking for some prefabricated 6.5 inch adapters.....

[k9lovr]

Quick question folks, I have an aftermarket sub (Pioneer 10") and Alpine amp (MRV-M500) without a LOC. It has worked fine for the most part but I have noticed it has started cutting out when the volume is turned down. Is it time to add an LOC (LC2i)? If I add it will I need to run a remote switch to the relay as pictured by doug? Thanks for any assistance,

[cspcrx]

Just ordered a pair of Audison Voce 3 inch midrange speakers for the dash.....Can't leave well enough alone :)

Has anyone replaced the front door speakers? Looking for some prefabricated 6.5 inch adapters.....

I have been very happy with the change the Voce 3 inch made on the dash.

[Spacemonkey]

Just ordered a pair of Audison Voce 3 inch midrange speakers for the dash.....Can't leave well enough alone :)

Has anyone replaced the front door speakers? Looking for some prefabricated 6.5 inch adapters.....

http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/


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[fmzip]

http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/


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thanks....

Ordered the Audison Voce 6.5's too....it's a disease I tell ya!!

[Strong Man]

thanks....

....it's a disease I tell ya!!

+100 ... DISEASE!!! With no medication:))))

[fmzip]

+100 ... DISEASE!!! With no medication:))))

lol :)

[fmzip]

Amazing...

3 days from Italy to USA

Time to fab some door adapters:

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/voce6.jpg

[joeis8salt]

What is the difference between yours, and this one for $199?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A4-B8-Sedan-Fit-Box-subwoofer-enclosure-/112566109961?hash=item1a35768709:g:fIkAAOSw2gxYpDQ v&vxp=mtr

I ended up buying the one from Poland.. got it in 2 weeks and fits perfectly.. I had to take out all the trim to fit in side but it sits flush.

[fmzip]

I ended up buying the one from Poland.. got it in 2 weeks and fits perfectly.. I had to take out all the trim to fit in side but it sits flush.

What did you use for a sub and an amp?

[joeis8salt]

What did you use for a sub and an amp?

i have a non Nav B&O system---weird combo from the previous owner.. so it was relatively easy for me to wire up.

i ended up buying a Pioneer TSW261D4 10" and a Rockford fosgate rx500. Though like it says in earlier posts the frequencies were all over the place... I think i have it dialed in for now... but i'm tempted to get the lc2i to see if it fixes.

[fmzip]

Waiting patiently for my amp and sub to arrive 😏
DIY for how to remove all the trunk trim with lots of pictures soon to come...

I'd like to tackle this, my dynamt is getting dusty! How's that DIY coming along? ;)

[0000_S5]

Here are mine settings :

https://a.d-cd.net/cd55901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/fa35901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/d7f5901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/db0d901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/bf8d901s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/212d901s-960.jpg

I’ve been running this setup for more than a month and it is much cleaner than the “wide open all” configuration that I was running. Highly recommend trying this. Thanks!!!


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[fmzip]

^^^

Planning on installing the Audison Voce this weekend.

[Strong Man]

I’ve been running this setup for more than a month and it is much cleaner than the “wide open all” configuration that I was running. Highly recommend trying this. Thanks!!!


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My pleasure...happy to hear it and help.

[Spacemonkey]

It’s TZddZfyFy

[fmzip]

Popped in the Audison Voce's in the dash. Big improvement!

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/audison.jpg

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/audison1.jpg