The definitive stereo and subwoofer upgrade thread

[waxxonMTL]

Quick subject change:

People have recommended the audison prima 8s in the front doors.

Just wondering if there’s a voce 8 available separately and if so, why have those not been recommended to go with the voce 3s in the dash?

https://www.audison.eu/product_lines/voce/

biggest is 6.5

[PeteRock]

https://www.audison.eu/product_lines/voce/

biggest is 6.5

I started with the Prima 8s and swapped them for the Voce AV K6s which I run in the front and rear and they blow the Primas away.....more than enough bass especially if you have an upgraded sub


Pete

[Dobbler]

I started with the Prima 8s and swapped them for the Voce AV K6s which I run in the front and rear and they blow the Primas away.....more than enough bass especially if you have an upgraded sub


Pete

Driving them with stock B&O amp? What makes them so much better than the Prima 8's?

[PeteRock]

Driving them with stock B&O amp? What makes them so much better than the Prima 8's?

Driving them with JL Audio amps....the Voce line is a lot better than the Primas....the bass and mids are tighter and cleaner and the tweeters produce more accurate highs....and you can drive them a lot harder


Pete

[Dobbler]

Driving them with JL Audio amps....the Voce line is a lot better than the Primas....the bass and mids are tighter and cleaner and the tweeters produce more accurate highs....and you can drive them a lot harder


Pete

I'm rocking the VOCE 3.0 in the dash, and the Prima 8's in the front doors. The VOCE 6.5 have 2.5db less sensitivity and I don't think the B&O amp has enough to drive them "well".

[PeteRock]

I'm rocking the VOCE 3.0 in the dash, and the Prima 8's in the front doors. The VOCE 6.5 have 2.5db less sensitivity and I don't think the B&O amp has enough to drive them "well".

You might be right about that....I initially started with Voce 3s in the dash and Prima 8s in the doors with the B&O amp and it sounded great....wasn’t until I upgraded to the JL amps and then swapped to the Voce 6.5s that I noticed a real difference


Pete

[Adamantium]

Thanks Pete.

Where are you getting the source from for your JL amps?

Are you running new speaker cable or did you just replace the b and o amp in its stock location and reuse its output wiring?

I was thinking about using the stock fibre network and running an audison multichannel amp buy I’m concerned about losing the processing functions from the stock set up. I don’t know if these are controlled by a data connection in the amp itself which would obviously be losses or if retaining the fibre as the source would retain the sound processing assuming it’s don’t in the MMI unit.

I find the stock B and O to be one of the best sounding OEM set ups I’ve ever heard and am worried that any fundamental changes will be a retrograde step.

I have a JL12TW1 sub in a perfectly sized box and have removed the shelf sub (nothing installed yet). I was going to fit the voce 3s and the prima 8s. My biggest concern is losing the very tight punchy bass of the stock system that currently feels like it’s coming from the front doors but probably isn’t.

[PeteRock]

Thanks Pete.

Where are you getting the source from for your JL amps?

Are you running new speaker cable or did you just replace the b and o amp in its stock location and reuse its output wiring?

I was thinking about using the stock fibre network and running an audison multichannel amp buy I’m concerned about losing the processing functions from the stock set up. I don’t know if these are controlled by a data connection in the amp itself which would obviously be losses or if retaining the fibre as the source would retain the sound processing assuming it’s don’t in the MMI unit.

I find the stock B and O to be one of the best sounding OEM set ups I’ve ever heard and am worried that any fundamental changes will be a retrograde step.

I have a JL12TW1 sub in a perfectly sized box and have removed the shelf sub (nothing installed yet). I was going to fit the voce 3s and the prima 8s. My biggest concern is losing the very tight punchy bass of the stock system that currently feels like it’s coming from the front doors but probably isn’t.

I run everything through the Audison Bit One DSP so I could retain the OEM head unit....this requires leaving the B&O amp in the car to provide the signal

I agree and at first was pleased with the sound once I added a small sub with amp to the B&O while disabling the OEM sub but then decided to go down the rabbit hole of swapping the dash and door speakers for Voce 3s and Prima 8s and the rest is history ;)

If you upgraded the OEM sub and just did the Voce 3s and Prima 8s you would be very happy with the results....you won’t lose anything from the stock sound and only stand to gain in overall quality of sound and tight punchy bass

The key is to know when to say when or be prepared to go all in...either way you won’t be disappointed :)


Pete

[Adamantium]

My issue is already having a 12” sub in a dedicated box and a morel monoblock amp.

Going to do 3” voce, so only question is AP8s with B and O amp of AV6s and some kind of aftermarket amp.

Think probably the former.

Question then is why you didn’t use the fibre optic signal to feed your bit 1 by means of the additional audison DA box you can buy?

[PeteRock]

My issue is already having a 12” sub in a dedicated box and a morel monoblock amp.

Going to do 3” voce, so only question is AP8s with B and O amp of AV6s and some kind of aftermarket amp.

Think probably the former.

Question then is why you didn’t use the fibre optic signal to feed your bit 1 by means of the additional audison DA box you can buy?

I had everything installed by a custom audio shop that my buddy owns so that may be how they did it and I’m not explaining it correctly


Pete

[waxxonMTL]

I'm rocking the VOCE 3.0 in the dash, and the Prima 8's in the front doors. The VOCE 6.5 have 2.5db less sensitivity and I don't think the B&O amp has enough to drive them "well".

I second that opinion. For B&O amp, it would be interesting to see if the voce still sound much better ( which is subjective by the way..) than the prima 8. I'm unsure too due to the sensitivity beeing less.

Prima - aimed to be used with stock power amp
Voce - Use full potential of full power aftermarket amp

Nonetheless, I shall put my comment friday morning when I get the AP1, Voce3 and Prima8 installed with stock amp

[Adamantium]

Nonetheless, I shall put my comment friday morning when I get the AP1, Voce3 and Prima8 installed with stock amp

Looking forward to that comment!

[PeteRock]

I second that opinion. For B&O amp, it would be interesting to see if the voce still sound much better ( which is subjective by the way..) than the prima 8. I'm unsure too due to the sensitivity beeing less.

Prima - aimed to be used with stock power amp
Voce - Use full potential of full power aftermarket amp

Nonetheless, I shall put my comment friday morning when I get the AP1, Voce3 and Prima8 installed with stock amp

You’ll love the sound....that’s the first step I took after upgrading the Sub....the stock B&O amp does a nice job of driving them

You’re spot on about the Voce 6.5s too....at first I was driving them with JL Slash 300 amps and they sounded great but then I upgraded to JL HD 600 amps and now they sound amazing....they are definitely a speaker that feeds off of the additional power and sound better the harder you drive them


Pete

[fmzip]

I'm rocking the VOCE 3.0 in the dash, and the Prima 8's in the front doors. The VOCE 6.5 have 2.5db less sensitivity and I don't think the B&O amp has enough to drive them "well".

This is spot on....I bought the Voce 6.5's and put them in the front with the factory B&O Amp. Removed them and installed the Prima 8's, had much better depth and output. The Voce 6.5's went into the rear doors

To Pete's point, if you are going with an aftermarket sub and amp, the Voce6.5's are the ideal choice for the fronts, otherwise you'd likely have way too much bass with the Prima 8's.

The VOCE line is the better Audion product if going aftermarket

[Adamantium]

Can you have too much bass?

At the moment, the stock system (in my A5 cab) seems to gave a tight punchy bass. I assume that’s coming mostly from the 8s in the doors.

Surely that will be lost if going for AV6.5s?

[ccarrigan]

Anyone get noise free full range RCAs pre amp? I'm able to pull the analog connector out of the amp and tap to RCAs, but no matter what I do there's a large noise floor. Center pin in my cut off RCAs gets audio from any of the line out pins in the amp connector, but no matter where I connect the shield wire it doesn't eliminate the noise. Thanks!

[a_s-Oo4]

Oh no, I’m putting RS180’s in the front. But I’ve modelled the bracket myself so making a few tweaks to get it to fit the AP8 should be doable. Assuming I get it right for myself first.

https://eipromb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/img_1305.jpg

Hey eipromb, would you be willing to share the .stl files you made for your rear brackets? I’ve been looking into making some, alas I don’t have the software for creating... [:(]

[a_s-Oo4]

15% off coupon active on eBay today, so I finally pulled the trigger on the AV3’s.

Just as a heads up, 10% eBay coupon is active today... [:D]

[Morritse]

I need an amp that fits between the spare tire and the area next to it. I know there have been a few posted here but I can't find them. Needs to be around ~600W 1 ohm.

[audigsr]

Question on Add a fuse for a remote turn on, do you have to put it in a used fuse slot? Or can I use in one of the several empty slots in that area? The add a fuse I have has two fuse holder slots: one for the original circuit fuse, and another for a new fuse for the new circuit. I'm guessing I wouldn't need the additional fuse slot if I were to use an empty slot? Also, what amp fuse would I use for the new circuit?

[grovlet]

Question on Add a fuse for a remote turn on, do you have to put it in a used fuse slot? Or can I use in one of the several empty slots in that area? The add a fuse I have has two fuse holder slots: one for the original circuit fuse, and another for a new fuse for the new circuit. I'm guessing I wouldn't need the additional fuse slot if I were to use an empty slot? Also, what amp fuse would I use for the new circuit?

I question what you are actually doing though - Remote Turn On should not come from Fuse Block.... It should come from the radio harness - so that the amp comes on with the radio only....

BUT to answer your question: You may need to fill both slots - to create a complete circuit - and fuse sizing is dependent on how many amps of draw - but if it's an empty slot there should be little to no draw there - and I doubt remote turn draws much in amps either - I would think a 20 Amp fuse in each would suffice.

I do also question if you've checked the fuse block slot is always on vs. accessory only or even powered (some are just filler spots)? You don't want your amp on 100% of the time....

[fmzip]

Can you have too much bass?

At the moment, the stock system (in my A5 cab) seems to gave a tight punchy bass. I assume that’s coming mostly from the 8s in the doors.

Surely that will be lost if going for AV6.5s?

Are you talking stock speakers? They are not 8's.

And yes, I think you could have a bass heavy system if you went with Prima 8's in the front and a powered sub in the trunk

[techracer]

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t750x1bd/

I have one and i'm VERY impressed with it. 1/3rd the size of my slash amp and does even better IMO.

[audigsr]

I question what you are actually doing though - Remote Turn On should not come from Fuse Block.... It should come from the radio harness - so that the amp comes on with the radio only....

BUT to answer your question: You may need to fill both slots - to create a complete circuit - and fuse sizing is dependent on how many amps of draw - but if it's an empty slot there should be little to no draw there - and I doubt remote turn draws much in amps either - I would think a 20 Amp fuse in each would suffice.

I do also question if you've checked the fuse block slot is always on vs. accessory only or even powered (some are just filler spots)? You don't want your amp on 100% of the time....

Others have tapped into the fuse box successfully for remote turn on. Just gotta make sure there's no power through it when the car is off. I think I'll use a multimeter and check the existing fuses.

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll run a 20AMP fuse, I'm guessing it doesn't matter where the fuses are placed on the add a fuse? Or is there a certain order? https://www.crutchfield.com/S-WVr1wm11dtl/p_120ATCDT1/InstallBay-ATC-Dual-Add-A-Fuse.html is the one I got for reference.

I haven't checked which fuse yet, as I ran out of time for the install over the weekend. Haven't done any wiring yet.

[mia748sp]

Others have tapped into the fuse box successfully for remote turn on. Just gotta make sure there's no power through it when the car is off. I think I'll use a multimeter and check the existing fuses.

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll run a 20AMP fuse, I'm guessing it doesn't matter where the fuses are placed on the add a fuse? Or is there a certain order? https://www.crutchfield.com/S-WVr1wm11dtl/p_120ATCDT1/InstallBay-ATC-Dual-Add-A-Fuse.html is the one I got for reference.

I haven't checked which fuse yet, as I ran out of time for the install over the weekend. Haven't done any wiring yet.If all you're using that slot for is remote turn on, a 20A fuse is way too much. The most I would go is 5A, especially if only turning on 1 amplifier. A typical remote lead from an aftermarket radio puts out less than 1A IIRC and they can run multiple devices before needing to add a relay/diode setup to up the amperage.

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[Adamantium]

Are you talking stock speakers? They are not 8's.

And yes, I think you could have a bass heavy system if you went with Prima 8's in the front and a powered sub in the trunk

Did not know the stocks weren’t 8s - thanks!

Making me consider the av6s more and more although I’m reluctant to fit an additional amp.

My sub is a 12 in a small box, it’s punch that I’m trying to achieve and am thinking high efficiency 8s would provide that, with the drop coming from the sealed 12.

[fmzip]

Did not know the stocks weren’t 8s - thanks!

Making me consider the av6s more and more although I’m reluctant to fit an additional amp.

My sub is a 12 in a small box, it’s punch that I’m trying to achieve and am thinking high efficiency 8s would provide that, with the drop coming from the sealed 12.


You know, maybe the stocks were 8's.....

Photo of the stock one next to a AP8

http://thetechhouse.myqnapcloud.com/~fmzip/Audi/ap8.jpg

[Morritse]

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t750x1bd/

I have one and i'm VERY impressed with it. 1/3rd the size of my slash amp and does even better IMO.

Decided to go a different route to try and save some $$$. Let the air out of the spare and took out that ground stud. Managed to fit my amp in that area. I have a tire inflater with me anyways.

https://i.imgur.com/m0YSHCs.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2eKdDEo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/DlVudwd.jpg

[fmzip]

Decided to go a different route to try and save some $$$. Let the air out of the spare and took out that ground stud. Managed to fit my amp in that area. I have a tire inflater with me anyways.



https://i.imgur.com/2eKdDEo.jpg



I'd highly suggest keeping the power and ground copper strands unexposed, you're risk an arc/fire

[Morritse]

I'd highly suggest keeping the power and ground copper strands unexposed, you're risk an arc/fireGood call.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

[fmzip]

Good call.

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Are you going to secure that Amp? Just noticed the cardboard wedge.... Hate to see you blow things up

[Morritse]

Are you going to secure that Amp? Just noticed the cardboard wedge.... Hate to see you blow things up

Yeah. That was a test fit to see if the trunk panel would interfere with the RCA cable.

[audigsr]

If all you're using that slot for is remote turn on, a 20A fuse is way too much. The most I would go is 5A, especially if only turning on 1 amplifier. A typical remote lead from an aftermarket radio puts out less than 1A IIRC and they can run multiple devices before needing to add a relay/diode setup to up the amperage.

Sent from my SM-T377V using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. Yeah, I would just use it for a single 300 watt amplifier (AudioControl 1.300). Do you happen to know in what order I would need to put the fuses (e.g. original fuse on the top slot and new fuse in the bottom, or vice versa). Or does it not matter.


Yeah. That was a test fit to see if the trunk panel would interfere with the RCA cable.

I recall reading an article on Crutchfield to avoid having the amp touch the car's chassis due to interference. Have you encountered any noise interference with the amp being there?

[Morritse]

I recall reading an article on Crutchfield to avoid having the amp touch the car's chassis due to interference. Have you encountered any noise interference with the amp being there?

No

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[a_s-Oo4]

So I’ve been following this thread for a while now. I read everything in it from page 1 and finally decided to start my car audio upgrade. Might I add that there was some epically helpful information in here!!!

For the build I’ve purchased so far
x1 AudioControl EpicCenter 1200 with ACR-3 remote
x1 Pioneer TS-W260D4 Subwoofer
x2 Audison Voce 3.0 Midranges
x1 Custom Stealth Sub Enclosure

A few questions...
With this setup, would it be overkill to add a couple (or 4) Audison Prima AP8 speakers and upgrade the tweeters?
That in mind, what recommendation of tweeter use can anyone give me? I’ve heard some of the titanium tweeters are a bit too “tinny” or metallic sounding. Any knowledge of the stock tweeter RMS?
Lastly, should I stick with the idea of replacing the doors with Audison Prima AP8’s or is there another comparable option I have yet to consider?

Any insight is super appreciated!! Thank you in advance.[:D]

[fmzip]

So I’ve been following this thread for a while now. I read everything in it from page 1 and finally decided to start my car audio upgrade. Might I add that there was some epically helpful information in here!!!

For the build I’ve purchased so far
x1 AudioControl EpicCenter 1200 with ACR-3 remote
x1 Pioneer TS-W260D4 Subwoofer
x2 Audison Voce 3.0 Midranges
x1 Custom Stealth Sub Enclosure

A few questions...
With this setup, would it be overkill to add a couple (or 4) Audison Prima AP8 speakers and upgrade the tweeters?
That in mind, what recommendation of tweeter use can anyone give me? I’ve heard some of the titanium tweeters are a bit too “tinny” or metallic sounding. Any knowledge of the stock tweeter RMS?
Lastly, should I stick with the idea of replacing the doors with Audison Prima AP8’s or is there another comparable option I have yet to consider?

Any insight is super appreciated!! Thank you in advance.[:D]

Audison AP1 Prima tweeters pair with the Prima 8's

Four Prima 8's would be way too much in my opinion. Try two in the front and see how you like it to start. Being able to dial down the sub with the ARC-3 will be helpful as I think with the stock B&O amp it can be a bit much at times

[Adamantium]

Fmzip,

With my sealed JL12TW1, would you recommend removing the stock subwoofer?

I ask because I am installing an electric rear sunblind (S5 coupe), and the work involved in changing my mind is significant enough to get it right first time before actually installing the equipment.

It seems excess to me to have an amped 12, stock amped 10, and stock amped 8s in the doors. This will be made worse by putting AP8s in the doors.

[fmzip]

Fmzip,

With my sealed JL12TW1, would you recommend removing the stock subwoofer?

I ask because I am installing an electric rear sunblind (S5 coupe), and the work involved in changing my mind is significant enough to get it right first time before actually installing the equipment.

It seems excess to me to have an amped 12, stock amped 10, and stock amped 8s in the doors. This will be made worse by putting AP8s in the doors.

I would definitely remove the stock sub completely and use that as a port to get more bass in the cabin.....Need some details on retrofitting an electric sunshade, link??!!

[Strong Man]

With this setup, would it be overkill to add a couple (or 4) Audison Prima AP8 speakers and upgrade the tweeters?
That in mind, what recommendation of tweeter use can anyone give me? I’ve heard some of the titanium tweeters are a bit too “tinny” or metallic sounding. Any knowledge of the stock tweeter RMS?
Lastly, should I stick with the idea of replacing the doors with Audison Prima AP8’s or is there another comparable option I have yet to consider?

Any insight is super appreciated!! Thank you in advance.[:D]

You can use together with Audison Prima AP8 Hertz ET 26.5.

https://a.d-cd.net/c756af5s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/4ed6af5s-960.jpg

[waxxonMTL]

Quick review : I had the AP1, Voce 3 and prima 8 installed last friday. I only have about 5 hour sof break-in all stock powered. I also have jl ib10 in lieu of the stock sub all stock amp powered.

I'm happy that theres is no more rattle, muffling sound when going over 22-25ish. i can go at max volume and still hear clear.

However, that about it. I didn't really any sound enhancement, vocal/instrument I previously didn't hear well. I don't really feel much more bass neither.

I can't say my expectation was too hight neither was I come from a guy who used to build 3way active ( 3 amp) setup in older car, I know what a real system SQ could sound like.

Considering the labor I paid + cost of these speakers which is close to 1k$ cnd. I'm unsure the price was worth the ''cleaness' at high volume since it is not heathly to listen at such volume anyways haha! Maybe I feel like theres a bit more bass at 10-15 volume with the prima8. But I wouldn't remove it either. its there its there. I might go with aftermarket amp to really use the additional benefit of these audison.

[Adamantium]

I would definitely remove the stock sub completely and use that as a port to get more bass in the cabin.....Need some details on retrofitting an electric sunshade, link??!!

Can’t really provide a link yet as I’ve not put it in a thread. It’s one of many many retrofit mods I’m doing at the same time. When they are all finished it will go in one thread showing everything.

Either way, don’t think it’s an option on the S4.

[Adamantium]

Forgot to say, removing the sub is the option I’ve gone with.

I’m still ok the fence about AP8 or AV6. Really don’t want to have to amp the front end.

Now people have me thinking about the tweeters which before I wasn’t even considering.

[paulxxwall]

Yes remove the factory sub 10x more bass!


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[Morritse]

Yes remove the factory sub 10x more bass!


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Does doing this mess with the stock amp?

[paulxxwall]

Nope


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[fmzip]

Does doing this mess with the stock amp?

No, it should actually help the stock AMP with less draw on it

[paulxxwall]

91282


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[paulxxwall]

91283
This little setup right here bangs!!!


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[audigsr]

Thinking about mounting the audiocontrol 1.300 amp with some velcro attached (to the driver's side cubby in the slot under the stock amp) . Would this be a bad idea in terms of heat? I would think by putting some velcro in 2-3 strips under the amp would provide a small gap for airflow.

[Morritse]

Cleaned up the install. Not a fire hazard anymore :p https://i.imgur.com/U8Rwddo.jpg

[cspcrx]

Thinking about mounting the audiocontrol 1.300 amp with some velcro attached (to the driver's side cubby in the slot under the stock amp) . Would this be a bad idea in terms of heat? I would think by putting some velcro in 2-3 strips under the amp would provide a small gap for airflow.

That’s where mine is and no issues at all.

That is much better no exposed wires.

[audigsr]

That’s where mine is and no issues at all.



Did you mount your metal bracket with velcro as well? I noticed in your pic the amp is screwed to the metal plate, curious on how the metal plate is secured to the cubby? I'm still unsure if I should do the metal plate mount as well, or just go straight velcro to the amp to the cubby slot. Need to make a trip to the hardware store tomorrow after work.

Going to try to get the wiring install and stock sub removal done this weekend. Super excited.

[cspcrx]

No the plat bolts to the plastic rack. It was not hard to do at all. Velcro might work though.

[audigsr]

No the plat bolts to the plastic rack. It was not hard to do at all. Velcro might work though.

Alright, I'll give it a shot. Thanks for all the info.

[Adamantium]

My audio installer is seriously dissuading me from installing the AP8s. He thinks with a dedicated 12" sub there's already plenty of bass, and frankly, having driven around in preparation for a few days without the sub in the parcel shelf, the stock front speakers already sound pretty damn good to me in terms of punch.

I'm going to do the AV3.0s, but given how much I already like the sound of the front doors, I'm concerned that the AP8s will actually be a step forward.

[Dobbler]

My audio installer is seriously dissuading me from installing the AP8s. He thinks with a dedicated 12" sub there's already plenty of bass, and frankly, having driven around in preparation for a few days without the sub in the parcel shelf, the stock front speakers already sound pretty damn good to me in terms of punch.

I'm going to do the AV3.0s, but given how much I already like the sound of the front doors, I'm concerned that the AP8s will actually be a step forward.

The stock B&O front drivers are decent down to 50hz but start to distort below that with bass heavy material. If you’re not playing music too loud you may rarely encounter it. I went with a separately powered 10” and stock front drivers for a year before swapping in the AP8s. The improvement was more subtle than expected, and they are definitely more power hungry, but I have eliminated those situations where the stock speakers would “bottom out” and distort. It’s not about quantity of bass, it’s about quality.

[Adamantium]

So it's really a function of fixing the rare situations when they don't sound great. I must admit I have heard them lose a little control at the bottom end when over driven.

The set up current feels very well matched, there's a real warmth to the complete sound, like it has been effectively designed to cover the whole audible range consistently.

I have interfered with stock set ups before and while I have found higher quality components that are more transparent, more capable and accurate, they do not gel with the rest of the set up and tend to ruin the overall sound.

I'm most concerned about upsetting the balance of what may well be inferior but is already well matched.

Are my concerns unwarranted if considering the AP8s?

[Dobbler]

So it's really a function of fixing the rare situations when they don't sound great. I must admit I have heard them lose a little control at the bottom end when over driven.

The set up current feels very well matched, there's a real warmth to the complete sound, like it has been effectively design to cover the whole audible range consistently.

I have interfered with stock set ups before and while I have found higher quality components that are more transparent, more capable and accurate, they do not gel with the rest of the set up and tend to ruin the overall sound.

I'm most concerned about upsetting the balance of what may well be inferior but is already well matched.

Are my concerns unwarranted if considering the AP8s?

Yes, unwarranted. You'll have to turn the volume up 10% more, but they are an excellent tonal match for the rest of the system. Especially since you're already upgrading to the 3.0 midrange drivers. Others here have taken the next step with the AV 6.5's up front, but all indications are you really need a new amp to drive them properly (or to at least realize the sonic benefits).

[Adamantium]

Thanks Dobbler,

Appreciate the feedback.

I'm really against any additional amps at this stage, but do like the idea of an audison Ap8.9bit with a digital input directly from the fibre optic set up - so much nicer than a high level input.

Anyway, that's for later.

Thanks again.

[paulxxwall]

My audio installer is seriously dissuading me from installing the AP8s. He thinks with a dedicated 12" sub there's already plenty of bass, and frankly, having driven around in preparation for a few days without the sub in the parcel shelf, the stock front speakers already sound pretty damn good to me in terms of punch.

I'm going to do the AV3.0s, but given how much I already like the sound of the front doors, I'm concerned that the AP8s will actually be a step forward.

He’s right! A dedicated 12” sub would serve you way better!


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[Adamantium]

This was never a question of 12” JL TW1 or AP8s, it was both or just the sub.

I’m now going for just the sub initially an AV3s.

[Adamantium]

My sub went in today.

It’s wired to ignition positive but is a signal sensing amp. Turns on with bass.

I also wired in a remote bass control.

TW1 is incredibly loud and needs much turning down. I turned down the bass on the stock set up to give the mids a break at high output.

Also installed the voce 3.0s. Not easy to get the old ones out, to reach the wires or put the new ones in, under the steeper raked S5 windscreen. Well worth the effort though.

[audigsr]

Can anyone with a B8.5 chime in where you tapped into for remote relay for the amp?

So far the only solution I've seen is pinching into the relay as pictured in the passenger trunk pocket: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20150908/f736e63ee0cf3c1797c9e6973af8e21a.jpg

Just wanted to make sure there wasn't better solution than this for this area.

[Adamantium]

Can anyone with a B8.5 chime in where you tapped into for remote relay for the amp?

So far the only solution I've seen is pinching into the relay as pictured in the passenger trunk pocket

Just wanted to make sure there wasn't better solution than this for this area.

I'd appreciate an answer to this too - currently my sub amp is signal sensing but that gives a little pop - I'd prefer a dedicated remote.

[GotMo]

I used that relay wire for my remote wire. Soldered to the wire below the relay. It's not an accessory lead, so the car has to be running in order for this wire to see 12v. I looked everywhere to find an accessory wire I could use. This was the best option.

[audigsr]

I used that relay wire for my remote wire. Soldered to the wire below the relay. It's not an accessory lead, so the car has to be running in order for this wire to see 12v. I looked everywhere to find an accessory wire I could use. This was the best option.

Thanks for the info. Might have to solder mine too, so it doesn't slip out. Does it matter which prong you tap into? I haven't pulled my relay out yet, so i'm not sure what it looks like underneath it.

[Adamantium]

Also meant to say, I fitted my amp in left side of the boot under the b and o amp. Fits perfectly.

[GotMo]

Thanks for the info. Might have to solder mine too, so it doesn't slip out. Does it matter which prong you tap into? I haven't pulled my relay out yet, so i'm not sure what it looks like underneath it.

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the fuse panel down. Lift the panel, you'll see a black wire coming off the relay. Solder to this one. See pic.

9275392754

[audigsr]

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the fuse panel down. Lift the panel, you'll see a black wire coming off the relay. Solder to this one. See pic.

9275392754

Thanks a bunch! This worked like a charm, picture really helped.

My install is finally complete. Now I just got to get the amp tuning down.

[a_s-Oo4]

Audison AP1 Prima tweeters pair with the Prima 8's

Four Prima 8's would be way too much in my opinion. Try two in the front and see how you like it to start. Being able to dial down the sub with the ARC-3 will be helpful as I think with the stock B&O amp it can be a bit much at times

What are your thoughts on the Audison Voce AV-K6 installed in both the front and rear? From what I’ve been researching, the Audison Voce line is far superior to the Audison Prima line. Sorry to keep adding to this, just trying to gather as much information as possible before I buy.

[fmzip]

What are your thoughts on the Audison Voce AV-K6 installed in both the front and rear? From what I’ve been researching, the Audison Voce line is far superior to the Audison Prima line. Sorry to keep adding to this, just trying to gather as much information as possible before I buy.

I first installed the Voce 6.5s coax's in my front doors......it lost so much mid range bass over the stock B&O's. I put the 6.5's in the rears and put the Prima 8's in the front.

Unless you're going with an aftermarket amp like PeteRock did, I think you may find the mid bass lacking. Also, I am not a fan of the rear door tweeters by my ears which is why the coax's suited perfect for the rear doors

[PeteRock]

I first installed the Voce 6.5s coax's in my front doors......it lost so much mid range bass over the stock B&O's. I put the 6.5's in the rears and put the Prima 8's in the front.

Unless you're going with an aftermarket amp like PeteRock did, I think you may find the mid bass lacking. Also, I am not a fan of the rear door tweeters by my ears which is why the coax's suited perfect for the rear doors

True story.....I have the Voce AV K6s in front and the rear and they sound amazing but I drive them with JL Audio HD 600 amps so there’s a lot of power pushing them.....if you tried running these off of the OEM amp you would be wasting their true potential


Pete

[Fr3nchy524]

What other options are there then the voce or prima? Or is there a site you guys are getting these speakers not from Europe?

[a_s-Oo4]

True story.....I have the Voce AV K6s in front and the rear and they sound amazing but I drive them with JL Audio HD 600 amps so there’s a lot of power pushing them.....if you tried running these off of the OEM amp you would be wasting their true potential


Pete

Ah... Good to know. Due to finances, I planned to upgrade the speakers in sections and then finally add a multi channel amp to drive them. I think you might have sold me on the AV-K6 in the front and rear...

PeteRock are you using your JL Audio amp to power your other speakers as well? I’m looking into multi channel amps but not entirely sure of the channel amount, assuming all my aftermarket speakers are going to be 4ohms. Any thoughts on the AudioControl Matrix D-6.1200?

[a_s-Oo4]

What other options are there then the voce or prima? Or is there a site you guys are getting these speakers not from Europe?

Not that I’m into conformity.... but the Audison Voce & Prima line has proven that it’s an excellent replacement (quality greatest to least respectively). I’ve been scouting for price points on thee ol’ interwebs and I’ve found eBay to be the most reasonable. I’m sure others will chime in and express their thoughts.

[a_s-Oo4]

By the way... just received this lovely piece in the mail today.[:D]
93586
Installing soon...

[PeteRock]

Ah... Good to know. Due to finances, I planned to upgrade the speakers in sections and then finally add a multi channel amp to drive them. I think you might have sold me on the AV-K6 in the front and rear...

PeteRock are you using your JL Audio amp to power your other speakers as well? I’m looking into multi channel amps but not entirely sure of the channel amount, assuming all my aftermarket speakers are going to be 4ohms. Any thoughts on the AudioControl Matrix D-6.1200?

So I am using 2- JL Audio HD 600/4 Amps to power 3- Voce 3s in the dash and the 2- sets of Voce AV K6s...I’m also using a JL Audio HD 750/1 to power a 10W7 sub....it’s a fully active setup that’s run through the Audison Bit One HD DSP

Ebay definitely has the best prices for Audison and I don’t think that anyone here has had any issues but my buddy who has owned a custom audio shop for years told me that there’s a lot of fake Audison and other car audio out there so I got everything from him through Audison directly


Pete

[sailakfan]

By the way... just received this lovely piece in the mail today.[:D]
93586
Installing soon...

Hello,

Is this the subwoofer enclosure for the passenger side? Are you using it with the Pioneer woofer? Do you mind sharing where you got it from?


EDIT : Just realized she is an A5, are the cubby holes between the A5 and S4 b8.5, the same?

Thanks

[Urogazm]

Hello,

Is this the subwoofer enclosure for the passenger side? Are you using it with the Pioneer woofer? Do you mind sharing where you got it from?

ThanksI got the same one just haven't installed it yet. You can get it off ebay. It comes from the UK and yes it's goes on the right side

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[sailakfan]

I got the same one just haven't installed it yet. You can get it off ebay. It comes from the UK and yes it's goes on the right side

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Thanks for the quick response my friend. I did search on ebay, but only found the driver's side enclosure for A4. Could you please share the link? Do you know if it will be a perfect fit or needs any adjustment? The one Chris sells on etsy is good, but I am little leary about drilling holes in the pocket and also he sells them with the woofer.

Has anyone installed the ebay right side one?

[sailakfan]

Look at what I just got [emoji2]. I can't wait to install 8902189022

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Found the seller from your post, thanks. Is this the one for S4 8.5? https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-A4-B8-SALOON-NEW-STEALTH-SUB-SPEAKER-ENCLOSURE-BOX-SOUND-BASS-CAR-AUDIO-10/152922023404?hash=item239adce5ec:g:He8AAOSwO6haksx T

[Urogazm]

Thanks for the quick response my friend. I did search on ebay, but only found the driver's side enclosure for A4. Could you please share the link? Do you know if it will be a perfect fit or needs any adjustment? The one Chris sells on etsy is good, but I am little leary about drilling holes in the pocket and also he sells them with the woofer.

Has anyone installed the ebay right side one?This is the seller 93650

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[Urogazm]

This is the seller 93650

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Dang. Just saw your post [emoji23][emoji23]. Glad I could help.

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[sailakfan]

Dang. Just saw your post [emoji23][emoji23]. Glad I could help.

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Thanks Urogazm, thanks for confirming the correct item. Have a great weekend!!!

[KLX]

I have searched, I have the B&O system I picked up the LC2i do I just tap it off of the sub wires? and jumper the inputs on the LC2i or just use one side, and output the RCA's to the amp? The install will be in a week. Thanks.

[cspcrx]

The stock sub wires are where most are picking up their signal. Just remember the stock sub is out of phase so flip the pos and neg wires so your new sub fires the correct direction.

[KLX]

Roger that thanks.

[audigsr]

So my Audiocontrol amp took a dump on me and wouldn't turn on when still setting everything up. Got a replacement one and hooked everything up, still not getting adequate output. The sub barely hits at all even with the gain turned all the way up (the maximum light won't even turn on) and the speakers relatively loud.

I think I may have narrowed it down to three possible things:


Bad grounding? I currently have the amp grounded to an unused bolt to the most rear of the spare tire well. I can take a pic if needed, there seems to be another similar bolt in the area. Not sure if this area requires more prep or not (such as paint scrapping)? I already cut the grounding wire to make it an exact fit to the amp. Toying with the idea of possibly soldering more wire to the existing and extending it to the negative battery terminal, although I hear that the chassis is a better route. I noticed there is a giant grounding cable to the right of the battery, not sure if I should use this or not, or if my area is good enough.
There are four sub output terminals on this monoblock Audiocontrol amp, (in order of 1 to 4) I'm using slots 1 and 4 (slot 1 being negative and slot 2 being positive). Not sure if it matters on this amp, or if I need to put them next to each other in slots 1 and 2?
The speaker wires coming out of the Audison sub is bigger than the terminal holes on the amp. I find that I simply cannot get the wires completely inside the positive and negative terminal slots to tighten down. The holes are in a square shape, making it hard to fit the speaker wires in. I'm thinking this may be the issue, since half of the wires are going into the terminal and half is just getting bunched up outside of it?


I have ordered some ferrules to get the wires compressed and able to fit in the hole completely to see if that will make a difference. Anyone else have any input?

[a_s-Oo4]

Hello,

Is this the subwoofer enclosure for the passenger side? Are you using it with the Pioneer woofer? Do you mind sharing where you got it from?


EDIT : Just realized she is an A5, are the cubby holes between the A5 and S4 b8.5, the same?

Thanks

Urogazm is correct! Purchased it off eBay from the UK and fits into the passenger/right side compartment area. I believe the eBay seller also makes the enclosure for the B8.5 S4.

[sailakfan]

Urogazm is correct! Purchased it off eBay from the UK and fits into the passenger/right side compartment area. I believe the eBay seller also makes the enclosure for the B8.5 S4.

Thanks for the reply, I have already ordered it from the same seller. He is really backed up, so will not be delivered until end of December, so the waiting game begins :)

[sailakfan]

Dang. Just saw your post [emoji23][emoji23]. Glad I could help.

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I have ordered the enclosures and have narrowed down to JL 10W3V3. What sub have you decided? Are there any better options than the JL for this enclosure?

Thanks

[Adamantium]

I’ve got one of these enclosures currently.

Am in the uk and am thinking of selling mine.

I have a 12” JLTW3.

The output is huge but it’s just too much for me. I’m looking at swapping down to an 8 in the same location.

Trouble is now, the box is 0.65cuft which is perfect for the 12. Even the 10TW3 only wants 0.35cuft so I’m going to struggle to get the box small enough. Suppose I could screw in some wood to reduce volume.

Yesterday I put the box and sub up for sale on the UK forum.

Would sell to the states but I have no idea what shipping would cost.

Forgot to say - mine is for an S5 coupe.

It would be available immediately though.

[sailakfan]

I’ve got one of these enclosures currently.

Am in the uk and am thinking of selling mine.

I have a 12” JLTW3.

The output is huge but it’s just too much for me. I’m looking at swapping down to an 8 in the same location.

Trouble is now, the box is 0.65cuft which is perfect for the 12. Even the 10TW3 only wants 0.35cuft so I’m going to struggle to get the box small enough. Suppose I could screw in some wood to reduce volume.

Yesterday I put the box and sub up for sale on the UK forum.

Would sell to the states but I have no idea what shipping would cost.

Forgot to say - mine is for an S5 coupe.

It would be available immediately though.

Sorry to hear that, I too thought 12" might be little too much, so going with 10" to balance out the rest of the system. Here is an adapter to reduce the openening, https://www.amazon.com/SPEAKER-ADAPTOR-SUBWOOFER-FIBERGLASS-RINGS/dp/B076XSPGXQ There should be a way to reduce the volume as well. Anyway, good luck.

[ambesolman]

In case anyone is wanting to go big, my local shop has Focal Utopia 6.5” component sets for 50% off ($999) this fri-sun. No idea if they’d sell over the phone, but don’t see why they wouldn’t. It’s a great shop that I’ve used since the late 90s.

http://soundsensationsauto.com


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[slacktide]

Hey, just pimping my adapters for Audison Voce AV 6.5 speakers that I have on the classifieds... Help me fund some upgrades for the S4 :) Also, see pics in my A4 audio upgrade thread for construction / installation details.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/835585-Speaker-Adapters-for-Audison-6-5-quot-speakers

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/668097-Slacktide-s-audio-build-thread?p=11299732&viewfull=1#post11299732

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4821/44204387590_9a6bc326d7_c.jpg

[cspcrx]

nice job on the adapters I am sure some members will buy them.

[blunak]

Dang. Just saw your post [emoji23][emoji23]. Glad I could help.

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How did you go about installing this and holding it in place?


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[blubaru]

I have a 2015 with tech package and B&O. If I directly replace the factory sub with one of the shallow mount subs mentioned in here, will it sound pretty much the same or will there be noticeable low frequency improvement? Is there a way to squeeze more bass out of the B&O without adding a separate amp/sub in the trunk?

[audigsr]

I have a 2015 with tech package and B&O. If I directly replace the factory sub with one of the shallow mount subs mentioned in here, will it sound pretty much the same or will there be noticeable low frequency improvement? Is there a way to squeeze more bass out of the B&O without adding a separate amp/sub in the trunk?

Many people are satisfied with replacing the stock sub with the Pioneer sub in the earlier pages of the sub. Many reported deeper fuller bass.

There's no way to squeeze out more bass out of the B&O sub that I know of. You could change your settings to front and turning up the bass. You'll get slightly more bass by having the front in focus, but I didn't like the way it sounded overall.

[paulxxwall]

I have a 2015 with tech package and B&O. If I directly replace the factory sub with one of the shallow mount subs mentioned in here, will it sound pretty much the same or will there be noticeable low frequency improvement? Is there a way to squeeze more bass out of the B&O without adding a separate amp/sub in the trunk?

No. Well it depends on what your looking for. If the factory sub sounds ok but jus want a bit more than factory, buy a good free air sub an a external amp to power it lc2 for signal 4g power and you’re all set. Put sound deadner on back deck to kill rattling. If not sub in a box throw in the trunk and you’ll be good with that as well.


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[fmzip]

In case anyone is wanting to go big, my local shop has Focal Utopia 6.5” component sets for 50% off ($999) this fri-sun. No idea if they’d sell over the phone, but don’t see why they wouldn’t. It’s a great shop that I’ve used since the late 90s.

http://soundsensationsauto.com


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Great speakers, had them in my BMW. No room to fit these in our doors though

[fmzip]

Hey, just pimping my adapters for Audison Voce AV 6.5 speakers that I have on the classifieds... Help me fund some upgrades for the S4 :) Also, see pics in my A4 audio upgrade thread for construction / installation details.




Great job bud!

[KLX]

Well job complete, I installed a DVC 10 inch Sundown Audio in the back deck using the Fosgate 500w amp and the Audio control LOC
https://www.amazon.com/10-V-3-D4-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CKSS3TO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HVVDZP0JNY7TGT3AGF5N
ALOT more bass to the point that I had to turn it down to blend with the other speakers, great upgrade, a little trimming to get it to fit and a load of sound deadner. But overall I am impressed and pleased.
https://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/20181215_145247.jpg (https://www.audizine.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=92511&title=20181215-145247&cat=500)

[KLX]

It acts like a port and it booms much harder


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+1

[waxxonMTL]

Guys,

Is it normal to have a code for both front left and right of '' short bass speaker'' after swapping to AP8 ? I didn't do it, the audio shop did, but I'm fighting a electric management code and I'm thinking it could be the issue .. short drawing the battery. Any clue?

Thanks !

[EyeCentric]

Do you really need the audiocontrol l2ci LOC? I was thinking of running with no LOC at all. Just running a box off the existing lines... Any input?

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[BMT62688]

Do you really need the audiocontrol l2ci LOC? I was thinking of running with no LOC at all. Just running a box off the existing lines... Any input?

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk


I can only tell you my experience but i would say the lc2i while not needed is the best that i have had and this is for a non B&O car. I have tried just a set of pigtail rca with no loc and 2 different loc’s and all of them left something out whether it was volume or bass response and all of this were tried with a couple different sub amp and box configuration. Just to be clear the old setup i had in my s5 is now in my other car that has an aftermarket radio and it sounds incredible but this was before i got the lc2i and unfortunately i havent tried that setup since getting the lc2i because everything is mounted in the car. While I personally dont think the lc2i is as good as an aftermarket radio with pre amps it is the best bet for the best sound

[Fresh.S4]

so... the stock sub DOES have its own dedicated sub line??
for some reason I thought it was just tapped into the rear speakers...
Gonna hit up walmart for one of those self powered 10s hah!

[waxxonMTL]

Guys,

Is it normal to have a code for both front left and right of '' short bass speaker'' after swapping to AP8 ? I didn't do it, the audio shop did, but I'm fighting a electric management code and I'm thinking it could be the issue .. short drawing the battery. Any clue?

Thanks !

bump ? People who had their AP8 installed. did you happens to have a code for '' short bass speaker'' ? This is important as I'm about to waste several hundred of dollars on diagnostic for my electric issue.

Thanks

[Drunktank]

First I’ve ever heard of it, so not normal at all. Sounds like your shop messed up. I would take the door panel off and take a look.

[Strong Man]

Guys,

Is it normal to have a code for both front left and right of '' short bass speaker'' after swapping to AP8 ? I didn't do it, the audio shop did, but I'm fighting a electric management code and I'm thinking it could be the issue .. short drawing the battery. Any clue?

Thanks !

Should NOT be any codes!!! I did install AP8 by myself- NO CODES, ZERO ISSUES !

[cbnat]

Ebay has 10% to 15% off today again only. Code = PICKUPSALE

[morph2k4]

I'm looking to do a drop in replacement for the stock sub on a B&O system. I've read through the entire thread and come to the following conclusions:

The Pioneer TSW261D4 (https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSW261D4-10-Inch-Champion-Equalizer/dp/B00O8B7CBW) seems to be the best option for a budget drop in solution.

The AE IB10AU (http://aespeakers.com/shop/ibau-woofers/ib10au) seems to be the best option for higher quality drop in solution.

The Infinity REF100S (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108REF100S/Infinity-REF1000S.html) looks like it would be a reasonable option with a lower profile to stick into the trunk, but it's only 4 ohm impedance which might be a problem with the stock amp.

As for mounting the amp, most spacers appear to be 3/4" thick, which does not fit under the stock grill. I found these (https://www.soundmekanix.com/products/mdf-rings/mdf-10-rings/) which seem like they might work for this application (available at 1/2 inch thickness).

The pioneer amp seems to be proven to work reasonably well. Can anyone who's tried the AE or the infinity chime in on their experiences? Any feedback would be appreciated!

[fmzip]

bump ? People who had their AP8 installed. did you happens to have a code for '' short bass speaker'' ? This is important as I'm about to waste several hundred of dollars on diagnostic for my electric issue.

Thanks

No codes here either.....Did this code pop up on your dash or did you find it with a scan??

[waxxonMTL]

No codes here either.....Did this code pop up on your dash or did you find it with a scan??

with scan. What I don't understand is how the speaker can work without issue while having a short ? + How can you mess up an installation that involve welding two wire together? there's no inline adapter to be put right? its plug and play.

But I got 2 codes for the Battery module ( energy management active 03041, and quiescent current 02256 code) then.. I find these 2 code about short to bass speaker. Seems to all be related to my battery issue.

I also don't really understand how a speaker can draw power, unless it gives a signal to the amp and then the AMP always stay on which draw power over night. Seriously, I don't know .. But I never had electric issue before and the only things that happened to my car in the last 6 months or so are the speaker installation.

[EyeCentric]

I have B&O
so... the stock sub DOES have its own dedicated sub line??
for some reason I thought it was just tapped into the rear speakers...
Gonna hit up walmart for one of those self powered 10s hah!

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[EyeCentric]

I can only tell you my experience but i would say the lc2i while not needed is the best that i have had and this is for a non B&O car. I have tried just a set of pigtail rca with no loc and 2 different loc’s and all of them left something out whether it was volume or bass response and all of this were tried with a couple different sub amp and box configuration. Just to be clear the old setup i had in my s5 is now in my other car that has an aftermarket radio and it sounds incredible but this was before i got the lc2i and unfortunately i havent tried that setup since getting the lc2i because everything is mounted in the car. While I personally dont think the lc2i is as good as an aftermarket radio with pre amps it is the best bet for the best soundAny one else have thoughts on this?

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[cybernet99]

Any one else have thoughts on this?

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I would agree, using some form of “de-equalization”, level/gain control to put into an aftermarket amp will be better than going straight from speaker outlet into an amp input. But, without question, the best solution is an aftermarket head unit with good Pre-amp outputs.




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[waxxonMTL]

how many of you went with the audison amp ? that could be my next move.. :)

[Flint]

how many of you went with the audison amp ? that could be my next move.. :)

I did. Probably depends on the sub you choose but I personally feel it is lacking in output for what it is rated. It also runs extremely hot even when only playing moderately. I could be biased as I come from a history of JL slash amplifiers.

Can’t beat the size though.


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[mia748sp]

Any one else have thoughts on this?

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It all depends on the amp you're using and the range of input voltage it can take. I was using a JL XD amp (200mV -8V) tapped straight from the sub to RCA with no issues until I decided what direction to go for audio upgrade.

[mys4.org]

Any one else have thoughts on this?

Sent from my PH-1 using TapatalkI had a lc2i and hated it. The low end bass cut was why too high so if you like to listen to some heavy bass songs you wouldn't hear the full range. Not to mention it had a weird setup on how it would equalize each frequency. Some tone would blast the sub and others were unheard. Everything about the lc2i just seemed cheap. Not to mention the time delay it created drove me crazy. I finally pulled the lc2i out got a rca to wire kit so that the everything went direct to my amp. Sound so much better now. I should have done this from the start I just didn't realize my amp supported it.

[gamatt]

I had a lc2i and hated it. The low end bass cut was why too high so if you like to listen to some heavy bass songs you wouldn't hear the full range. Not to mention it had a weird setup on how it would equalize each frequency. Some tone would blast the sub and others were unheard. Everything about the lc2i just seemed cheap. Not to mention the time delay it created drove me crazy. I finally pulled the lc2i out got a rca to wire kit so that the everything went direct to my amp. Sound so much better now. I should have done this from the start I just didn't realize my amp supported it.

I finally got around to tossing my 10" sealed box with Polk sub and RF Punch 150w amp in. Easiest install in the automotive world, everything is right there in the trunk. Signal sense amp turn on and high level connection straight into the amp. For now I left the stock sub as is. To my ear it's just now a full sound all the way down to 30ish hz.

[mys4.org]

I finally got around to tossing my 10" sealed box with Polk sub and RF Punch 150w amp in. Easiest install in the automotive world, everything is right there in the trunk. Signal sense amp turn on and high level connection straight into the amp. For now I left the stock sub as is. To my ear it's just now a full sound all the way down to 30ish hz.150w amp that is barely more than stock. I'm surprised you can hear it... But if it works for you that's cool.

I'm running closer to 700w rms so you notice imperfections a lot more.

[Surfer8210]

Could anyone tell me if Alpine makes a compatible unit for my 2014 S5?
Presently I have a Concert series MMI 3G which came stock.
Or, any other recommendations for a head unit, I’d like to have car play and decent Nav.
I tried searching but 1124 posts are in this thread and I’m not sure I’m searching correctly.


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[PeteRock]

Could anyone tell me if Alpine makes a compatible unit for my 2014 S5?
Presently I have a Concert series MMI 3G which came stock.
Or, any other recommendations for a head unit, I’d like to have car play and decent Nav.
I tried searching but 1124 posts are in this thread and I’m not sure I’m searching correctly.


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Not 100% sure if this unit is available for purchase in the US but I thought someone may have posted about it before....

https://www.alpine-electronics.se/p/Products/SingleView/X702D-A5


Pete

[waxxonMTL]

Not 100% sure if this unit is available for purchase in the US but I thought someone may have posted about it before....

https://www.alpine-electronics.se/p/Products/SingleView/X702D-A5


Pete

seems like the upgraded to Version 2 now. Surely it is tempting, but somehow, I think I would have regret loosing the OEM-look of the car. Weird feeling I know! I love ''OEM'' look, and I would hesitant to replace the single DIN slot of the B&O command for the Alpine one. If it was only the screen, I would be more interesting to do it I think. Nonetheless, PROPS to Alpine for developing a solution !

[Ford Prefect]

Hey guys,

I'm at a loss so I figured the stereo experts might be able to shed the light on my issue. I have a B8 with B&O with symphony interface. I upgraded to B&O MMI 3G+, all parts, except the new used B&O amp (MOST version) came from a reputable seller. Amp from eBay. My sound for radio, media, navigation, and calls almost never works. Occasionally the display doesn't come on and the MMI stays off.

Can someone lead me in the right direction? Which unit signals the other to turn on? I believe I've read this is how it works. I have a new head unit but am starting to think thats not the issue. Is the Amp the key component for all of the sound?

Sorry to highjack, but this is getting ridiculous.

Thanks

[Surfer8210]

Not 100% sure if this unit is available for purchase in the US but I thought someone may have posted about it before....

https://www.alpine-electronics.se/p/Products/SingleView/X702D-A5


Pete

Thanks Pete,
I saw that option earlier, I believe that it’s available on EBay. It needs to be ordered from Italy.
Reviews are great but I’m hoping that I’m able to find something similar to check out also. I was surprised to see that this was Alpines only offering for the S5’s, in fact they don’t even mention S5’s, just the A5.


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[gamatt]

150w amp that is barely more than stock. I'm surprised you can hear it... But if it works for you that's cool.

I'm running closer to 700w rms so you notice imperfections a lot more.

I have the amp crossover at the low setting which I think was 80 or 90hz and below, so all I'm asking the sub for is to fill in the lower stuff and it's a night and day difference.

[Drunktank]

Thanks Pete,
I saw that option earlier, I believe that it’s available on EBay. It needs to be ordered from Italy.
Reviews are great but I’m hoping that I’m able to find something similar to check out also. I was surprised to see that this was Alpines only offering for the S5’s, in fact they don’t even mention S5’s, just the A5.

The X701d, and since updated X702d are made for vehicles that didn't come with Nav (optical). My guess has always been because it isn't able to properly send the commands to the factory amp over optical. With that said, if you replace the factory amp also and use your new pre-outs, this may work. A quick call to Alpine Europe will confirm this.

This unit is one of the reasons I intentionally didn't get my car with nav or backup camera. It's fantastic.

[Cooper993]

The X701d, and since updated X702d are made for vehicles that didn't come with Nav (optical). My guess has always been because it isn't able to properly send the commands to the factory amp over optical. With that said, if you replace the factory amp also and use your new pre-outs, this may work. A quick call to Alpine Europe will confirm this.

This unit is one of the reasons I intentionally didn't get my car with nav or backup camera. It's fantastic.


Do you actually have this unit installed? If so, did you have the B&O without Nav prior?

[Drunktank]

Yes, i’ve had it installed for a couple years now, and yes, B&O without nav.

[Cooper993]

Yes, i’ve had it installed for a couple years now, and yes, B&O without nav.

That's interesting. Can you answer a few questions on the install:

How did you get US maps on it?
It looks like it has a separate trim piece. How does that fit since US cars have a combined airbag light/hazard switch?
Was it plug and play or is coding required?



Thanks

[ReDeViL]

hey guys, just a quick qns.
I'm exploring moving the stock amp unit to the spare wheel, reason being to fit a custom sub woofer enclosure on the left side of the boot.
Are the stock cables long enough to facilitate this?

[PeteRock]

hey guys, just a quick qns.
I'm exploring moving the stock amp unit to the spare wheel, reason being to fit a custom sub woofer enclosure on the left side of the boot.
Are the stock cables long enough to facilitate this?

You don’t want to put it there....there’s room to relocate the amp and MMI unit to the upper driver side corner of the trunk....see below.....

105088


Pete

[ReDeViL]

You don’t want to put it there....there’s room to relocate the amp and MMI unit to the upper driver side corner of the trunk....see below.....

105088


PeteThanks for the guide!
Is that a custom mount? I am assuming that this is achieved via drilling into the car body?

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[PeteRock]

Thanks for the guide!
Is that a custom mount? I am assuming that this is achieved via drilling into the car body?

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No drilling....just heavy duty double stick velcro and some dynamat in between the components and the body panels to eliminate any vibration


Pete

[ReDeViL]

No drilling....just heavy duty double stick velcro and some dynamat in between the components and the body panels to eliminate any vibration


Pete

got it!, thanks for the help!
very much appreciated.

[Drunktank]

That's interesting. Can you answer a few questions on the install:
How did you get US maps on it?
It looks like it has a separate trim piece. How does that fit since US cars have a combined airbag light/hazard switch?
Was it plug and play or is coding required?

- You just download the maps onto a laptop and upload them to the unit, it's like $50 or so.
- The US buttons are shrunk down to the size of the single EU hazards button. If you looked up the OEM part, I'm sure they would be the same #.
- Plug and play. It plugs into the canbus and takes care of everything, including your nav button now working and the hands free button functionality with Siri, etc.

This unit works with left and right hand drive, and Q5's, so the model you want is the X702D-A4L. You'll also want to get the replacement trunk handle which the camera mounts to, and get a nice 180' backup camera. If you have B&O and you want to keep that amp, you'll also need an adapter to avoid some static. This also allows you to completely remove the B&O amp without any errors.

[mrebusa]

After sifting for the last couple hours I am overwhelmed with options and needing this or that. I guess I am looking for a definitive option that would increase bass and quality over the factory B&O.

Details:
15' S4- B&O- 3G MMI

What all is needed to buy to throw in a 10" high quality sub and amp and ensure it works with all the rest of the B&O speakers (open to recommendations for sub/amp). I was planning to put it in the factory location with the dynamat on the rear deck. Sorry for the redundant question, just looking to do this right the first time.

[14S4GWM]

^ If you plan on using a high quality sub and amp then you need to mount the sub in a box in the trunk. The rear deck isn't going to cut it. You would just need an amp with line level inputs, sub, box and a amp wiring kit along with some miscellaneous connectors. You could leave the sub in the deck with it disconnected or remove it and dynamat the deck to keep it quiet.

[mrebusa]

^ If you plan on using a high quality sub and amp then you need to mount the sub in a box in the trunk. The rear deck isn't going to cut it. You would just need an amp with line level inputs, sub, box and a amp wiring kit along with some miscellaneous connectors. You could leave the sub in the deck with it disconnected or remove it and dynamat the deck to keep it quiet.

Thank you for the answer, I think I'll end up doing the box as you suggested. What is the sub of choice folks are using these days?

[techracer]

Does anyone make 3d printed or otherwise custom adapters for the AP8s or something similar that would work?

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[Drunktank]

Thank you for the answer, I think I'll end up doing the box as you suggested. What is the sub of choice folks are using these days?

I've used a JL 8" (great compliment for an otherwise factory stereo and can overpower it) and now a 10" Audison since I have upgrades the rest of my speakers to keep up. Volume requirements were a big factor in both decisions.

[Leviathan05]

Can anyone comment with any degree of certainty whether or not adding a sub and amp will introduce some delay in the subwoofer response? That is, does the sub hit a few ms later than the factory set up?

If so, is it significantly noticeable? I'm used to tinkering with time alignment/signal delay on my old setup, and if it is noticeable I feel like I'd be annoyed since I couldn't change it.

Otherwise I'm just going to start by replacing the factory sub which is already time-aligned with the rest of the system. A DSP is the step after that but, you know, $$$.

[cspcrx]

never noticed a delay or an odd sound

[techracer]

Does anyone make 3d printed or otherwise custom adapters for the AP8s or something similar that would work?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Audizine mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)Anyone?

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[gamatt]

Can anyone comment with any degree of certainty whether or not adding a sub and amp will introduce some delay in the subwoofer response? That is, does the sub hit a few ms later than the factory set up?

If so, is it significantly noticeable? I'm used to tinkering with time alignment/signal delay on my old setup, and if it is noticeable I feel like I'd be annoyed since I couldn't change it.

Otherwise I'm just going to start by replacing the factory sub which is already time-aligned with the rest of the system. A DSP is the step after that but, you know, $$$.

Me neither and so far I have left the stock system completely as it was, for me the sub just seamlessly enhances and extends the bass response. I have a 10" Polk sub in a sealed "truck" box and a Kicker 150W amp.

[Drunktank]

Anyone?

Sounds like you're on your own. That kind of thing really wouldn't get enough volume to make the project worth it, and people would just complain if they were $99.
Time to grab your router and circle jig!

[Strong Man]

Anyone?

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I don't understand why you're looking for 3-d printer etc. Two peaces of wood, wood glue, Jigsaw and 30 minutes of the job . That's all what you need.

https://a.d-cd.net/dfa05d5s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/97605d5s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/66e05d5s-960.jpg

https://a.d-cd.net/48905d5s-960.jpg

[cybernet99]

Router, circle jig and some plastic. Done in a couple hours.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190223/c7706dca8764ddf4e43d5fb71ccb6a3b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190223/ccb7ae55eeb6dee40178ca83d2e81bc2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190223/93146a7baf7838607c80cf8700589f44.jpg


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[techracer]

I like the plastic option, where do you source it?

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[cybernet99]

I like the plastic option, where do you source it?


I got it from a local plastics supplier. I forget what it is called but think of cutting board plastics, that's what it is made of. (it's NOT ABS or Acrylic) I made a template out of 1/4" MDF, then used that to cut the plastics with the router. The plastic is made up of two pieces, one 1/4" and one 1" piece. Because of the type of plastic it is, it needs to be screwed together, glue won't hold it. If you do this with a router, be slow with the depth. The 1" piece I had to take multiple passes around as the bit was trying to take to take chunks out of it if I tried to take too much off on a single pass. Take your time and it's easy to do a good job.

I used plastic, since MDF will get wet, (it's inside a door) and it will swell and ruin over time. The plastic will not deteriorate.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190224/cebb9b5ddb3e73a01edc2dca0d284745.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190224/efe3f4c0db840bf80e95957a8a1961e8.jpg

[fmzip]

I got it from a local plastics supplier. I forget what it is called but think of cutting board plastics, that's what it is made of. (it's NOT ABS or Acrylic) I made a template out of 1/4" MDF, then used that to cut the plastics with the router. The plastic is made up of two pieces, one 1/4" and one 1" piece. Because of the type of plastic it is, it needs to be screwed together, glue won't hold it. If you do this with a router, be slow with the depth. The 1" piece I had to take multiple passes around as the bit was trying to take to take chunks out of it if I tried to take too much off on a single pass. Take your time and it's easy to do a good job.

I used plastic, since MDF will get wet, (it's inside a door) and it will swell and ruin over time. The plastic will not deteriorate.



Nice work!

[cybernet99]

Thanks @fmzip! I'm in no rush, so want to take my time doing each of the pieces so I have no regrets when it is completely finished. I also want it to be of high enough quality that I would be able to compete in Car Audio competitions and do very well.

[techracer]

If I had dimensions I'd 3d print some from a friend's printer. I am looking to put AP8s in the front since I'm using the stock amp

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[paulxxwall]

What ohms are the factory concert speakers? Looking to replace them soon.


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[BillyS4]

Not sure if i read this Correctly. I can disconnect my B&O Sub and connect the wires directly to my Sealed Box? Sorry if this is a stupid question. A lot of information going on here. Great Thread!

[techracer]

In theory yes, but it likely won't sound good and will be underpowered.

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[audigsr]

Not sure if i read this Correctly. I can disconnect my B&O Sub and connect the wires directly to my Sealed Box? Sorry if this is a stupid question. A lot of information going on here. Great Thread!

If you're implying straight to a sub in a box, you technically could. But most likely it will be under powered, depending on the sub you're using. Generally to get proper power you need to wire to a signal processor and then to your amp or get an amp with both built in.

[BillyS4]

In theory yes, but it likely won't sound good and will be underpowered.

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Got it. Thanks for the Reply [up]

[dkmesa]

Thanks to this thread, I installed Dayton RS75-4 in the dash of my non-B&O system today. Contemplating adding some Polk tweeters I have in the garage or OEM B&O tweeters to the sail panels, and will likely add a sub. Debating a pre-fab box or building my own fiberglass for the right side.

[dkmesa]

Thanks to this thread, I installed Dayton RS75-4 in the dash of my non-B&O system today. Contemplating adding some Polk tweeters I have in the garage or OEM B&O tweeters to the sail panels, and will likely add a sub. Debating a pre-fab box or building my own fiberglass for the right side.

For anyone looking to upgrade their dash speakers, Metra 82-4201 worked great with a little but of dremel trimming.

[thendisnear4u]

It seems the suggested Pioneer free air 10" sub (TS-W261D4) is harder to get since it's been a few years since it came out.

Is there a newer Pioneer sub that's effectively the same sub and same or similar price point? Looking to just upgrade the sub to give the system some sign of bass for completeness.

[fmzip]

It seems the suggested Pioneer free air 10" sub (TS-W261D4) is harder to get since it's been a few years since it came out.

Is there a newer Pioneer sub that's effectively the same sub and same or similar price point? Looking to just upgrade the sub to give the system some sign of bass for completeness.

I'd suggest reaching out to Pioneer and see what they suggest for a replacement and then post your results here:

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/AboutPioneer/Contact+Us

[thendisnear4u]

In progress... no word so far. I did see the sub listed on Sears for under $70 shipped. Might go that route. But still interested to know if there's a newer version of the same or suggested replacement.

[thendisnear4u]

I'd suggest reaching out to Pioneer and see what they suggest for a replacement and then post your results here:

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/AboutPioneer/Contact+Us

This from Pioneer:


If you can not still find the TS-W261D4, the closest replacement would be the TS-A250D4.

[fmzip]

This from Pioneer:

Do not buy their suggested replacement!

Reason being, the sensitivity is only 74db on the replacement versus 93db on the other. This means you will have little to no output from the new sub.

Old

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Champion+Series/TS-W261D4#specs

New

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/A-Series/TS-A250D4#specs

[thendisnear4u]

Thanks! Seems they pencil-whipped the response with little to no analysis.

[Strong Man]

Do not buy their suggested replacement!

Reason being, the sensitivity is only 74db on the replacement versus 93db on the other. This means you will have little to no output from the new sub.

Old

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Subwoofers/Champion+Series/TS-W261D4#specs

New

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/A-Series/TS-A250D4#specs

Some extra input: it’s not just sensitivity is too low as well qts is half :
New qts = 0.56
Old qts = 1.04

I guess who answered from Pioneer has completely ZERO knowledge in car audio.

[thendisnear4u]

Some extra input: it’s not just sensitivity is too low as well qts is half :
New qts = 0.56
Old qts = 1.04

I guess who answered from Pioneer has completely ZERO knowledge in car audio.

Response was from Rocky. Rocky [at] pioneer-usa.com

[audigsr]

Selling my AudioControl ACM 1.300 amp if anyone is interested.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/860490-AudioControl-ACM-1-300-amp

[19birel]

Anyone know if there is a way to get an equalizer in these cars at all? I have the B&O system (totally stock atm) and I would love stronger mids, I achieved this in my old BMW by simply adjusting the equalizer settings of the Harman Kardon Logic 7 system it had and was pleased but the Audi doesn't have that feature, just treble, bass, surround, and DSP.

Is there some hidden menu I can activate or and aftermarket amp that will give me the ability to do this?

[audigsr]

Anyone know if there is a way to get an equalizer in these cars at all? I have the B&O system (totally stock atm) and I would love stronger mids, I achieved this in my old BMW by simply adjusting the equalizer settings of the Harman Kardon Logic 7 system it had and was pleased but the Audi doesn't have that feature, just treble, bass, surround, and DSP.

Is there some hidden menu I can activate or and aftermarket amp that will give me the ability to do this?

Not that I know of without going aftermarket HU, I also miss the EQ adjustability on the Harman Kardon on my old 335i.

[ambesolman]

As I anxiously await the shipping of my SI bm12, I’ve decided to start with the sub & amp + dsp for the stock b&o in my ‘14 S4 to see if I can get decent enough improvements without replacing my speakers.
I have the option to get a MiniDSP 6x8 ($150) and/or Helix DSP Pro + director + BT module ($750) all used but in good shape. There is a guy over on diyma that will remotely tune your car for a fee and I would likely get a much better result going that route, plus he will teach me the process as he does it.
Obviously the helix is 5x the price, but what are the biggest advantages of the helix over the simpler mini? Is it worth it? Would I need the helix MOST adapter (another $4-500[emoji1361]) to make it work? Anything else I’m not thinking of?



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[miztahsparklez]

As I anxiously await the shipping of my SI bm12, I’ve decided to start with the sub & amp + dsp for the stock b&o in my ‘14 S4 to see if I can get decent enough improvements without replacing my speakers.
I have the option to get a MiniDSP 6x8 ($150) and/or Helix DSP Pro + director + BT module ($750) all used but in good shape. There is a guy over on diyma that will remotely tune your car for a fee and I would likely get a much better result going that route, plus he will teach me the process as he does it.
Obviously the helix is 5x the price, but what are the biggest advantages of the helix over the simpler mini? Is it worth it? Would I need the helix MOST adapter (another $4-500[emoji1361]) to make it work? Anything else I’m not thinking of?



Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI have a Mobridge for sale to get you an optical out.

I used a Helix DSP in my s4 with phenomenal results. The software is fairly good.

Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk

[ambesolman]

I have a Mobridge for sale to get you an optical out.

I used a Helix DSP in my s4 with phenomenal results. The software is fairly good.

Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk

Posted a question in your sale thread


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[maksym]

Sorry for a slight off-topic. Was cleaning a door lock actuator in a REAR door of my B8 S4 and noticed the large in-door speaker is broken. The one in the other rear door is possibly broken too - can barely hear it. Should I just throw in a new set of OEM (non-B&O) speakers or get something nicer that would still work with the OEM setup? Not looking to upgrade the whole system at this point, still recovering from fixing PCV and what not, but would not mind working in small (financially speaking) steps towards assembling a better system.

[svenson14]

I don't know why this has taken me so long, but I've discovered this week that (with the Components I installed front and rear) I'm getting little to no highs/tweeters on the Driver's side, and little to no Mids/woofers out of the passenger side.

Before I rip apart the door panels again, I figured I'd ask here, could I have gotten the wiring wrong?

What could be the issue? Short on the tweeters? Why both front and rear?

Could this be an Audi issue that someone has also had?

[Drunktank]

Did you just use the factory locations and replace like for like on the same wires?

[ambesolman]

For the b8.5 with b&o, does anyone know the max depth of the 3way speakers up front? Thinking of just finding good measuring drivers and going active with a MiniDSP 6x8. Any suggestions are also welcome. Been looking on Madisound fwiw. Thanks!


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[fmzip]

Anyone know if there is a way to get an equalizer in these cars at all? I have the B&O system (totally stock atm) and I would love stronger mids, I achieved this in my old BMW by simply adjusting the equalizer settings of the Harman Kardon Logic 7 system it had and was pleased but the Audi doesn't have that feature, just treble, bass, surround, and DSP.

Is there some hidden menu I can activate or and aftermarket amp that will give me the ability to do this?

Audioson Prima 8.9bit was suggested to me:

https://w221audio.wordpress.com/2015/07/07/the-whole-enchilada-audison-prima-8-9-completes-the-premium-audio-system/

[fmzip]

For the b8.5 with b&o, does anyone know the max depth of the 3way speakers up front? Thinking of just finding good measuring drivers and going active with a MiniDSP 6x8. Any suggestions are also welcome. Been looking on Madisound fwiw. Thanks!


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Where's this 3 way speaker???

[ambesolman]

Where's this 3 way speaker???

Meant the 3way components in front, 1”, 3”, 8”


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[ambesolman]

Meant the 3way components in front, 1”, 3”, 8”


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Nobody has any ideas with all the stereo updates preformed here?

The Voce and Illusion c3cx are the only mids I’ve heard of people putting in the factory dash locations. Anyone use something different? Trying to see how deep that cavity is.


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[audi_sq4]

The dash cavity is pretty deep... Not an issue... The rack of the windshield and diameter of the opening in dash is an issue....

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[bwernick]

Here's a new data point for people looking to upgrade the B&O sub in a B8/8.5. The Pioneer sub that's been mentioned previously doesn't appear to be in production anymore. I decided to try using an Infinity REF1000S 10" sub, 4ohm. The basket is just a little too wide to drop in from the top. I was able to mount it from the bottom side of the deck using a 3/4" MDF ring as a spacer and some foam tape to seal the ring to rear deck interface. I was able to cut a section of insulation and splice a new speaker wire into the existing wiring harness, so I didn't have to cut off the factory speaker connector.

The factory amp seems to do just fine pushing a 4ohm load. Overall, the sound is substantially better than the stock sub. The B&O system is far from an audiophile system, but for $100 replacing the sub is a worthwhile upgrade.

The drawback with mounting from the underside with a trim ring is that you lose the benefit of a shallow sub with this or similar drivers. The back of the magnet ends up about 4" below the rear deck. I probably could've done this with a 1/4" ring to pick up another 1/2", but didn't have one on hand today.

I think the ideal situation would be to find a good free-air sub with a narrow enough basket to fit the factory hole and top-mount it with maybe a 1/4" or 1/2" ring, but I'm happy with the way this turned out for now. I would like to try dropping a JL 10W0 in from the top, but from the profile pictures I don't think the basket would clear. The guy who wrote one of the initial guides around here was able to drop a JL 10W1 from the top, but that looks to have a narrower basket assembly, and from the install pictures it didn't sit flush with the top deck either.

On a side note, the paint-can opener tool mentioned in the guide works great on the B&O grills. Damn the Audi panel clips for the side pillars and deck cover, though. Holy cow they are tight!

135594
135595

[grovlet]

How much was a bit to much for size?

Specs say 239 MM - Dayton Audio has a HO Reference Series similar woofer that shows up as only 235MM - I would expect it to perform better - and it's just a tad pricier ($145 vs $99) - if it fits from the top it may be a good for others to try.

Reference 1000s Specs (https://www.infinityspeakers.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-masterCatalog_Harman/default/dw632e78b1/pdfs/REF1000S_TS_EN.pdf)
Dayton Audio Reference HO Specs (https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-462-dayton-audio-rss265ho-4-specifications-46173.pdf)

Dayton HO 10" - Parts Express (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-4-10-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-462)

[ambesolman]

The dash cavity is pretty deep... Not an issue... The rack of the windshield and diameter of the opening in dash is an issue....

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Thanks[emoji1360]


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[ambesolman]

Well, I went by my audio shop over the weekend to try and get an estimate for installation and kick around some ideas. I realized that I’ve definitely been out of this hobby for longer than I thought, because I’d forgotten how expensive it can be. It’s going to cost twice as much as I thought to put all the equipment in and build the box.

As of now, the plan is to install:

Alpine pdx-v9 (2)
MOST connector box
Minidsp 6x8
SI bm12 mkv
Sound dampening on front doors
3-way speakers up front

That said, I’m going to have to install this stuff in at least two stages, but I’m unsure what to do first. An amp and sub seems like a good start, but can I do that without needing to install the MOST box or minidsp at the same time?



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[Snax]

Yes. Assuming you're installing the subs first. That said, any stereo shop should be able to grab signal off the OEM sub to run an aftermarket sub. Sure you will loose some output, especially as you turn up the volume, but later on when you have the MOST installed, that piece should correct the diminishing bass.

By the way the, I believe one of the MOST devices has a built in dsp. I could be wrong

[Aegix]

Hello, do any of you know if there is any possibility to get a sub output out of an Audi standard stereo head-unit (8 speakers setup, 2 mid base front + 2 dash tweeters, 2 mid base rear + 2 door tweeters)?

I am asking because I have tried getting signal from the radio for an aftermarket sub from pin 9 + 13 with no result.
radio unit (https://imgur.com/a/cOD4yIR)

Any info will be much appreciated.


P.S.
I have been upgrading my car's sound system, following other peoples experience here on the forum, but without adding any amp until now. I just ordered a Match PP 86DSP (https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/amplifiers/pp-86dsp) amp+dsp, and because of the factory basic sound system, I am not sure how the install will go. I might have to run some wires. I also considered buying this Helix SDMI25 (https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/accessories/sdmi25) and getting an optical signal to the DSP so I don't have to tap in the High-level outputs of the head unit

Changes made

-Added sound damping to the doors and trunk
-Front:
2x Audison AV3.0 (installed in the dashboard)
2x Audison Prima AP8 8"
2x Audison AV 1.1 installed in the doors (where you usually find the B&O ones)
-Rear:
2x Audions AV6.5 (I kept the stock tweeters for the moment).

-Trunk:
Audi avant sub box (http://sklep.basser.pl/en/fit-box-enclosure/403-audi-a4-b8-avant-fit-box-subwoofer-enclosure.html)+ Hertz DS 25

[mrdeli]

Hi All. I have Q5 with Audi Sound System (none B&O). I have fitted a JL 10” sub with Rockford Fozgate amp. Im picking up the sub signal from the connection going into the factory sub.

I have seen people suggest that the polarity should be flipped - is this true and if so why?

Thanks Mark.

[dkmesa]

Just speculating, but it may be because the factory sub in hte spare tire compartment is downward firing which is typically reversed polarity.

[mrdeli]

Thanks for your input. I’m pretty sure the spare tyre sub is upward firing. Maybe the B&O one is different?

[waxxonMTL]

who went with the audison amp? I got the AP8, AV3.0 And AV1.1, along with a great JL 10 inch open-air (from the 90's era) made for 8ohm.

How much would i gain from the audison prima amp? I got nothing else to mod on the car and i kinda feel the urge to do something LOL!

[extratime]

How much would i gain from the audison prima amp? I got nothing else to mod on the car and i kinda feel the urge to do something LOL!

I'm not familiar with anything Audison, but I still maybe able to help you out a little because I've bypassed the B&O system in favor of aftermarket. It's impossible to describe in words what the improvements are because frankly it has to be heard to be believed. What good would it do to tell you something like it's "awesome/great/totally worth it/etc.". That's just my opinion. I can, however, provide you with some visuals that may help you make up your own mind.

If your unfamiliar with JL's Tun software the background colors represent each of the B&O channels:

Front Left and right
Blue = bass channel
Violet = door woofer channel
Red = dash midrange and tweeter sail (this is a shared channel in the B&O system)
Gray/White line graph = the unaltered B&O signal being sent to your speakers. It's horrendous.

Rear left and right
Blue = bass channel
Green = rear woofer channel
Gray/White line graph = the unaltered B&O signal being sent to you speakers.

https://i.imgur.com/jqoEu6d.jpg

This is the signal after the factory time alignment has been removed, a 31 band eq has been applied, and the signal is summed into a full range signal.

The yellow/gold line graph is the new signal being sent to the aftermarket amps then speakers.

https://i.imgur.com/uiH5dln.jpg

I mean absolutely no offense to anyone who has changed out there stock speakers for aftermarket running off the B&O amp, but in all honesty doing that is like putting a 1 inch Band-Aid on a 10 inch cut hoping that stops the bleeding. You need to fix the root cause of the problem to really improve the overall performance of the B&O system and that's the signal.

[cybernet99]

I'm not familiar with anything Audison, but I still maybe able to help you out a little because I've bypassed the B&O system in favor of aftermarket. It's impossible to describe in words what the improvements are because frankly it has to be heard to be believed. What good would it do to tell you something like it's "awesome/great/totally worth it/etc.". That's just my opinion. I can, however, provide you with some visuals that may help you make up your own mind.

If your unfamiliar with JL's Tun software the background colors represent each of the B&O channels:

Front Left and right
Blue = bass channel
Violet = door woofer channel
Red = dash midrange and tweeter sail (this is a shared channel in the B&O system)
Gray/White line graph = the unaltered B&O signal being sent to your speakers. It's horrendous.

Rear left and right
Blue = bass channel
Green = rear woofer channel
Gray/White line graph = the unaltered B&O signal being sent to you speakers.

https://i.imgur.com/jqoEu6d.jpg

This is the signal after the factory time alignment has been removed, a 31 band eq has been applied, and the signal is summed into a full range signal.

The yellow/gold line graph is the new signal being sent to the aftermarket amps then speakers.

https://i.imgur.com/uiH5dln.jpg

I mean absolutely no offense to anyone who has changed out there stock speakers for aftermarket running off the B&O amp, but in all honesty doing that is like putting a 1 inch Band-Aid on a 10 inch cut hoping that stops the bleeding. You need to fix the root cause of the problem to really improve the overall performance of the B&O system and that's the signal.

How did you sum the signal from the headunit to provide full range signal to process and pass along to amps?

In my setup I am grabbing the LF/RF high level outputs just before they would go into the amp (I’m non mmi, so no fiber)

I found the female plug and the pin outs to make rca leads to feed into Kicker amps that will take high level feeds in.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190826/88899799c9e2d1e7dc2d36285db358b6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190826/62925a5de46f001c03841f76abb4fdb0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190826/555cba0725487784352ff7a75a38162a.jpg




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[extratime]

How did you sum the signal from the headunit to provide full range signal to process and pass along to amps?

In my setup I am grabbing the LF/RF high level outputs just before they would go into the amp (I’m non mmi, so no fiber)

I found the female plug and the pin outs to make rca leads to feed into Kicker amps that will take high level feeds in.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There's multiple ways to do it with the B&O system. Either with something like a Mobridge or similar at the head unit using fiber optic cable --> dsp --> amps or, in your case, you will need to do what I did. I garbed the signal from the B&O amp speaker outputs. Unfortunately, you will need something ahead of those beautiful amps such as a Fix86/82 or Bit 10 to sum the channels into a full range signal. I choose to do it at the B&O amp because I wanted to keep everything in the cubby and I also didn't want to run new speaker wires into the doors so I already had plans to cut the stock speaker wires at the amp anyway.

I can tell you the wiring diagram is on the front page of this thread is dead on accurate for the B&O system but I'm not sure about non B&O.

I went with a couple NVX mini amps VADM1 and 4. Speakers are Focal PS 165F component set in the door and sail plus a pair of Morel CCWR254's in the dash. I'm also running two JL 6W3's in the trunk. If you haven't figured it out, I went full on mini [:)]

https://i.imgur.com/R7qy9w0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/x1SnB86.jpg

[mys4.org]

I just want to find away to get a raw subwoofer (bass) signal before it gets to the amp on a mmi. Whatever the b&o system is doing is messing with the freq cut off. Anyone found away around that?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[cybernet99]

There's multiple ways to do it with the B&O system. Either with something like a Mobridge or similar at the head unit using fiber optic cable --> dsp --> amps or, in your case, you will need to do what I did. I garbed the signal from the B&O amp speaker outputs. Unfortunately, you will need something ahead of those beautiful amps such as a Fix86/82 or Bit 10 to sum the channels into a full range signal. I choose to do it at the B&O amp because I wanted to keep everything in the cubby and I also didn't want to run new speaker wires into the doors so I already had plans to cut the stock speaker wires at the amp anyway.

I can tell you the wiring diagram is on the front page of this thread is dead on accurate for the B&O system but I'm not sure about non B&O.

https://i.imgur.com/R7qy9w0.jpg

The photo of your setup helps a lot to see how our setups are quite different... my B&O amp is different, as is my headunit.
I'm B&O, but CAN Gateway, not MOST, so no fiber … That's why my head unit (Concert/Symphony) that feeds >> into the amp has the following pinout.
1 - Microphone input 1 (+) from Microphone Unit in front roof module -R164- ( Inside Microphone -R74- )
2 - Microphone input 1 (ground shielding) from Microphone Unit in front roof module -R164- ( Inside Microphone -R74- )
4 - RR signal (+) from radio -R-
5 - LR signal (+) from radio
6 - RF signal (+) from radio (red/grey)
7 - LF signal (+) from radio (green/blk)
9 - CAN bus high (Infotainment)
10 - Microphone input 1 (-) from Microphone Unit in front roof module -R164- ( Inside Microphone -R74- )
13 - RR signal (-) from radio
14 - LR signal (-) from radio
15 - RF signal (-) from radio (brown/grey)
16 - LF signal (-) from radio (white/blk)
18 - CAN bus low (Infotainment)

You have the two fiber feeds going into the amp at the very bottom of your amp, mine does not have those, instead my amp has all of the 18 wires noted above going into the connector just above the fiber connections on your amp.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190828/1423c7fa0bfafe93c375ea35e664b872.jpg

I'm grabbing the LF & RF signal FROM the head unit BEFORE it goes through the amplifier. You are grabbing it after it has gone through the amplifier and has been processed and split for each range of output (sub/mid/high). I've yet to plug the output into an RTA to analyse the raw signal output …. Fingers crossed it will all be there. I still need to add the RCA connectors to the cables in the photo I posted (I want to add female ends, and only have male RCA ends, so have had to order some)

Cool option going with the full mini setup! I've got a three way setup using Audio Frog GB components in the front stage (GB15/GB25/GB60), and a JL Audio 12W6v3-D4 in the rear shelf. I'm still building .. but it's coming along nicely.

1.5" Door Tweeters
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190828/63675cf7600943a43d728276ae74167e.jpg

2.5" Mids in Dash
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190828/a8a5f287955f5f6a69e5db8786dfe561.jpg

6.5" Mid Bass in Doors
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190828/d7ca9c13383f53a446c47113bf685f2f.jpg

Sub Mounting Rings
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190828/573c165b9930b0571bb33fbd128ed8cb.jpg

Sub from Trunk View
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190828/e8657ceb5fc13bce826db5acc1a5cf6f.jpg

Rear Deck with Amps & Sub
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190828/9c111f52a3486e951a06f946f72f5853.jpg

[ambesolman]

If your unfamiliar with JL's Tun software the background colors represent each of the B&O channels:

Front Left and right
Blue = bass channel
Violet = door woofer channel
Red = dash midrange and tweeter sail (this is a shared channel in the B&O system)
Gray/White line graph = the unaltered B&O signal being sent to your speakers. It's horrendous.

Rear left and right
Blue = bass channel
Green = rear woofer channel
Gray/White line graph = the unaltered B&O signal being sent to you speakers.

https://i.imgur.com/jqoEu6d.jpg

This is the signal after the factory time alignment has been removed, a 31 band eq has been applied, and the signal is summed into a full range signal.

The yellow/gold line graph is the new signal being sent to the aftermarket amps then speakers.

https://i.imgur.com/uiH5dln.jpg

I mean absolutely no offense to anyone who has changed out there stock speakers for aftermarket running off the B&O amp, but in all honesty doing that is like putting a 1 inch Band-Aid on a 10 inch cut hoping that stops the bleeding. You need to fix the root cause of the problem to really improve the overall performance of the B&O system and that's the signal.

Thank you so much for this! I've wondered if anyone has ever measured the b&o system and this is very easy to see what's going on. I was just thinking about starting by swapping out speakers while saving for the rest of the install, but looks like that'd be pretty pointless.


There's multiple ways to do it with the B&O system. Either with something like a Mobridge or similar at the head unit using fiber optic cable --> dsp --> amps or, in your case, you will need to do what I did. I garbed the signal from the B&O amp speaker outputs. Unfortunately, you will need something ahead of those beautiful amps such as a Fix86/82 or Bit 10 to sum the channels into a full range signal. I choose to do it at the B&O amp because I wanted to keep everything in the cubby and I also didn't want to run new speaker wires into the doors so I already had plans to cut the stock speaker wires at the amp anyway.

I can tell you the wiring diagram is on the front page of this thread is dead on accurate for the B&O system but I'm not sure about non B&O.

I went with a couple NVX mini amps VADM1 and 4. Speakers are Focal PS 165F component set in the door and sail plus a pair of Morel CCWR254's in the dash. I'm also running two JL 6W3's in the trunk. If you haven't figured it out, I went full on mini [:)]

https://i.imgur.com/R7qy9w0.jpg




Couple of questions...

I've been eyeing those morels, how do you like them?

What's that thing with the pink clip?

[extratime]

Couple of questions...

I've been eyeing those morels, how do you like them?

What's that thing with the pink clip?

I'm very pleased with the Morels. There not impressive looking, but they perform very well. Even though there rated at 40 watts RMS, I have 75 watts RMS running though them and they haven't stressed one bit at that level. I have zero regrets picking them up.

The pink clip is the quick disconnect on the B&O amp for the speaker wire outputs. You should have a similar connector on your amp. Maybe not pink though.

[ambesolman]

I'm very pleased with the Morels. There not impressive looking, but they perform very well. Even though there rated at 40 watts RMS, I have 75 watts RMS running though them and they haven't stressed one bit at that level. I have zero regrets picking them up.

The pink clip is the quick disconnect on the B&O amp for the speaker wire outputs. You should have a similar connector on your amp. Maybe not pink though.

Another good review for the morels, thanks for that.
Ok I see it now. Maybe my eyes were crossed or something when I was looking at that clip before. Someone else here or another site printed a plastic clip of some kind that helped with the s4 install. I mistakenly thought that was it.


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[benjylafond]

Guys, the info on this thread is awesome. Was lucky enough to pick up a new old stock Pioneer TS-260D4 on OfferUp yesterday for $40. Looking forward to making that upgrade. I have another question. My other daily driver is an 01 BMW M Roadster. I did a full audio upgrade on it a few years ago. Getting ready to sell it and am removing most of the upgrades (I have all of the crap Harmon Kardon OEM system) because the car is worth more completely stock. I have a set of coaxial Infinity Reference 3.5 inch speakers that were directly behind the head rests. Looking at the mounting specs from the manual, they are only 3-4 mm wider in mounting diameter. Assuming I can get them to fit (if the tweeter will clear the dash grill) will there be an issue with these being coax? I believe I read somewhere in the 1000+ posts in this thread (yes I read every one), that the B&O sends full range signal to all speakers.

Thanks.

[extratime]

Guys, the info on this thread is awesome. Was lucky enough to pick up a new old stock Pioneer TS-260D4 on OfferUp yesterday for $40. Looking forward to making that upgrade. I have another question. My other daily driver is an 01 BMW M Roadster. I did a full audio upgrade on it a few years ago. Getting ready to sell it and am removing most of the upgrades (I have all of the crap Harmon Kardon OEM system) because the car is worth more completely stock. I have a set of coaxial Infinity Reference 3.5 inch speakers that were directly behind the head rests. Looking at the mounting specs from the manual, they are only 3-4 mm wider in mounting diameter. Assuming I can get them to fit (if the tweeter will clear the dash grill) will there be an issue with these being coax? I believe I read somewhere in the 1000+ posts in this thread (yes I read every one), that the B&O sends full range signal to all speakers.

Thanks.

The signal is internally processed at the B&O amp. Once the signal is processed through the B&O amp, no full range signal exists. That's why you need to either reconstruct/sum the signal after the B&O amp or grab the signal before it enters the amp.

[benjylafond]

The signal is internally processed at the B&O amp. Once the signal is processed through the B&O amp, no full range signal exists. That's why you need to either reconstruct/sum the signal after the B&O amp or grab the signal before it enters the amp.

Thanks for the info. Since the Infinity's are just gonna sit in a box in the garage, I figured I'd give them a go just as a "hell I have them" midrange upgrade before I pull the trigger on the Voce 3's. Basically, the tweeter's won't receive a signal on these because the B&O only sends the midrange signal. I will see how it sounds. Thanks.

[MME1122]

I'm looking to do a drop in replacement for the stock sub on a B&O system. I've read through the entire thread and come to the following conclusions:

The Pioneer TSW261D4 (https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSW261D4-10-Inch-Champion-Equalizer/dp/B00O8B7CBW) seems to be the best option for a budget drop in solution.

The AE IB10AU (http://aespeakers.com/shop/ibau-woofers/ib10au) seems to be the best option for higher quality drop in solution.

The Infinity REF100S (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108REF100S/Infinity-REF1000S.html) looks like it would be a reasonable option with a lower profile to stick into the trunk, but it's only 4 ohm impedance which might be a problem with the stock amp.

As for mounting the amp, most spacers appear to be 3/4" thick, which does not fit under the stock grill. I found these (https://www.soundmekanix.com/products/mdf-rings/mdf-10-rings/) which seem like they might work for this application (available at 1/2 inch thickness).

The pioneer amp seems to be proven to work reasonably well. Can anyone who's tried the AE or the infinity chime in on their experiences? Any feedback would be appreciated!

The Pioneer seems hard to find. I did find one on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-TS-W261D4-25-cm-dual-voice-coil-subwoofer-1200W/282655821021?hash=item41cf998cdd:g:ANYAAOSwT6JZvNy C
and one here: http://apex-audio.com/shop/pioneer-10-dvc-4-ohm-sub-1200w-max400w-rms-tsw261d4/

Thoughts on if these are legitimate or if there are simply no more of the TS-W261D4 available?
How about the AE IB10AU? Is it worth the premium/will it work off the stock amp?

I'm looking to stick to the shelf location with stock amp...for now at least. I will probably add the Voce 3.0s next. I spent today reading through most of the thread, still kind of processing all the info lol.

[cybernet99]

The Pioneer seems hard to find. I did find one on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-TS-W261D4-25-cm-dual-voice-coil-subwoofer-1200W/282655821021?hash=item41cf998cdd:g:ANYAAOSwT6JZvNy C
and one here: http://apex-audio.com/shop/pioneer-10-dvc-4-ohm-sub-1200w-max400w-rms-tsw261d4/

Thoughts on if these are legitimate or if there are simply no more of the TS-W261D4 available?
How about the AE IB10AU? Is it worth the premium/will it work off the stock amp?

I'm looking to stick to the shelf location with stock amp...for now at least. I will probably add the Voce 3.0s next. I spent today reading through most of the thread, still kind of processing all the info lol.

Be careful with the space between the sub and the factory trim. It might fit, but if there is not enough room to allow for “excursion” then the sub will hit against the trim and end up damaging the sub. How do I know, I damaged an AVI 10” sub because of that. Thought I had enough clearance but it was hitting against the factory cover and then ended up damaging the voice coil because the sub was only hitting on one side.


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[A4x]

If the B&O system shares the dash tweeter and midrange on the same channel, what kind of passive crossovers do they have on those speakers?

Totally separate topic:

I recently installed a new amp because my last one died after 2 years. Shame on me, I went cheap (Boss PV 3700). My last amp was also a cheap Boss which served me well so I figured why not? Now my problem is that I seem to be getting some parasitic drain on my battery. I installed on August 16th. I went away all last week and didn't drive the car for 6 days. When I came back, I saw low battery. Drove it around for about 30 minutes and got the charge up to 60%. Next day, I'm back down to 10%.

I unplugged the amp and DSP and the battery seems to hold a charge now and is back to normal.

How can I prove the amp is sucking power while everything is switched off? Yes my remote turn on wires are correct, and the amp visually powers down when I shut the car off. I checked the resistance across the + and - terminals of the amp and it was like 795000 Ohms. I think this is normal because I have another known good amp which measured similar. I could check parasitic draw by disconnecting the negative battery cable and measuring the current but this car just has too many fancy electronics that I feel would mess with that. Should I try it anyway?

Please PM me if you feel like you can help, for the sake of keeping this thread on topic.

Thanks!

[MME1122]

Be careful with the space between the sub and the factory trim. It might fit, but if there is not enough room to allow for “excursion” then the sub will hit against the trim and end up damaging the sub. How do I know, I damaged an AVI 10” sub because of that. Thought I had enough clearance but it was hitting against the factory cover and then ended up damaging the voice coil because the sub was only hitting on one side.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, will do. It seems like 1/2" is the magic number?

[waxxonMTL]

I'm calling my audio shop tomorrow, but would like a second opinion on the matter.

What is the requirement to install an Audison Prima 8.9 amplifier while still letting the B&O amp drive the rear? (beside the amplifier itself?)

Do I need a bit One or Any other MOS/Digital converter or its my understanding that the ap8.9 has that built-in already?

2) wiring harness for easy plug in play?

[vsaudi]

Are you replacing all the front speakers or only some of them?
Seems like you need a dsp that sets stage for all of the speakers in the car so you can let the b&o do it and add new speakers and amp to front stage.
Part of the problem with B9 B&O is front stage has 11 speakers. I replaced these 11 with 6 active speakers.

[waxxonMTL]

Are you replacing all the front speakers or only some of them?
Seems like you need a dsp that sets stage for all of the speakers in the car so you can let the b&o do it and add new speakers and amp to front stage.
Part of the problem with B9 B&O is front stage has 11 speakers. I replaced these 11 with 6 active speakers.

I have AP8, Voce 3 and Voce 1.1 + an updated JL sub

[ambesolman]

Are you replacing all the front speakers or only some of them?
Seems like you need a dsp that sets stage for all of the speakers in the car so you can let the b&o do it and add new speakers and amp to front stage.
Part of the problem with B9 B&O is front stage has 11 speakers. I replaced these 11 with 6 active speakers.

11 in the front? Where’d they stuff all those speakers?


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[vsaudi]

11 in the front? Where’d they stuff all those speakers?


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Look on Bobby’s B&O speaker guide but 2 in each A pillar, 3 in dash, 2 in each door




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[ambesolman]

Look on Bobby’s B&O speaker guide but 2 in each A pillar, 3 in dash, 2 in each door




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Interesting speaker layout. How’s the sound? Enveloping or gimmicky?


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[fmzip]

The Pioneer seems hard to find. I did find one on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-TS-W261D4-25-cm-dual-voice-coil-subwoofer-1200W/282655821021?hash=item41cf998cdd:g:ANYAAOSwT6JZvNy C
and one here: http://apex-audio.com/shop/pioneer-10-dvc-4-ohm-sub-1200w-max400w-rms-tsw261d4/

Thoughts on if these are legitimate or if there are simply no more of the TS-W261D4 available?
How about the AE IB10AU? Is it worth the premium/will it work off the stock amp?

I'm looking to stick to the shelf location with stock amp...for now at least. I will probably add the Voce 3.0s next. I spent today reading through most of the thread, still kind of processing all the info lol.

I was considering the AE IB10AU. It will work with the stock amp, I recall another member is using this one as well. It came up on my radar when I was adding quite a bit of input to this thread some time back

[dkmesa]

I added a 10" Alpine Type-S powered by MRV-M500 amp to my non-B&O allroad. Going for a discreet installation using the ebay enclosure that I got from a fellow forum member, relocating the factory module to under the spare tire (after trimming the plastic housing quite a bit for clearance), and positioning the aftermarket amp next to it. Tapping the factory subwoofer wire for high level input worked great and allowed me to skip wiring a remote turn-on. Adjusting the subwoofer level from the head unit works like a charm, but I will be adding a switch to make it easier to adjust.

[Aegix]

Here is my experience after upgrading the sound system on my B8 Avant which had a basic sound system (8 speakers/no sub)

Gear:

Front dashboard: 2X Audison AV3
Front door: 2x Audison AV1.1
Front door: 2X Audison AP8
Rear door: 2x AV6.5
Rear door: 2x Audison AV1.1
Trunk: 1x Audison AV10
Trunk: 1xCustom arch wheel soundbox(Ebay)


Sub amplifier: Helix G Two
Amplifier/DSP: MATCH PP 86DSP



The goal of this install was to have as little to no modifications done to the car(which was a good goal but in the end I had to make some compromises).

Last year I bought the AV3.0 and mounted them in the dash instead of the factory tweeters, and in the same process, I deadened the doors and spear wheel area of the trunk. Nothing much to tell here that has not yet been said by other colleagues
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This year in June, I bought the speakers for the doors and proceeded to mount them, up to this point everything was run off the factory radio. Again, nothing to report here

2 Months ago, I decided to go all-in on the install and bought the amps, plus other accessories needed for the install

Now the hard part starts:

Phase 1: Running the wires from the dashboard and front door to the trunk.

Both were done at the same time because you have to take off the same plastic trims for this process, doing the dash wires is easy, quite straight forward. For this, you need to take off the caps from both ends of the dashboard and run the wires from up, down.
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To run the door wires can be difficult, but not as difficult as you would think. Going for a factory look meant that I had to tap in the door's factory plug. After some investigation I found the connector pins needed to do this (male (https://bjprace.se/en/electrical/connectors/pins/male-pin-to-bosch-connectors-5-pack/), female (https://bjprace.se/en/electrical/connectors/pins/stift-till-vw-bmw-ford-mb-0-5-1-mm2-5-pack/))

I started by taking the lower door trim off, then the A-pillar lower trim, hood latch lever and the plastic bracket for the hood latch(this is needed only on the left side, the right side is easier), finally take the plug out of the A-body pillar. You need to take apart the plug so you can get access to the wires. I had 2 empty sockets to tap in with the pin connectors. After this, I moved to the door itself. door panel off, door plug socket needs to be again taken apart to get access to the sockets for the female pins. Now, this was the more difficult and time-consuming part, trying to run the wires through the door's factory rubber grommets, definitely use some kind of plastic fishing wire, I used a long plastic cable tie.
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And finally, I drilled holes in the doors tweeter covers to attach the tweeters
https://imgur.com/CC5aYIo
I ran the wires following the factory wire looms on both sides, on the right side you will need to go under the rear bench and run the wires through the factory plastic wire holder, it has plastic lids that can be easily taken of. On top of the center tunnel, you will need again the plastic zip tie, the carpet won't allow you to open the cap. Next step is to connect with the left side wires and go up the wheel arch as the factory wire loom.
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Phase 2: Moving the factory radio and finishing running the wires to the trunk

I cut the factory zip tie which held in place the radio's wire loom on the wheel arch, to allow me to rout the loom up to the trunk, I used the plastic clip which held the wire loom attached to the radio's plastic bracket to keep the loom attached to the body
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In the same step, I finished running the 4 wires from the front to the trunk alongside the radio's factory loom
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Phase 3: Fabricating a bracket for the amps and determining a mounting point for it

I didn't feel comfortable to drill any holes in the body panels, the only option left from my pov was to use the battery as a mounting base. I used blown PVC to cut the bracket shape using a Stanley knife
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Phase 4: Mounting the sub box in the wheel arch.
I had some laughs when I compared the AV10 with the AV3.0 speaker
https://imgur.com/REpNByX
https://imgur.com/XIcZZ84
I used the blown PVC to fabricate a bracket to have a flat base where to mount the sub box. I glued velcro tape on the blown PVC and sub box to attach them together.
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End result:
https://imgur.com/3EpmHGO

Last but not least, was the gain setting, bandpass, time alignment, and Eq-ing.
The Eq-ing has been done by ear, I am quite happy with the sound, I still think that I need a mic to be sure that I have the ideal sound set-up but for the moment I am satisfied.

I can't even compare the sound quality difference, it was absolutely worth the 2.5k investment :D.

Sorry for my broken English and for not having too many pictures from the install, I hope you will find it in your hearts to forgive me.

[ambesolman]

Great work!


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[ambesolman]

If your unfamiliar with JL's Tun software the background colors represent each of the B&O channels:

Front Left and right
Blue = bass channel
Violet = door woofer channel
Red = dash midrange and tweeter sail (this is a shared channel in the B&O system)
Gray/White line graph = the unaltered B&O signal being sent to your speakers. It's horrendous.

Rear left and right
Blue = bass channel
Green = rear woofer channel
Gray/White line graph = the unaltered B&O signal being sent to you speakers.

https://i.imgur.com/jqoEu6d.jpg

This is the signal after the factory time alignment has been removed, a 31 band eq has been applied, and the signal is summed into a full range signal.

The yellow/gold line graph is the new signal being sent to the aftermarket amps then speakers.

https://i.imgur.com/uiH5dln.jpg

I mean absolutely no offense to anyone who has changed out there stock speakers for aftermarket running off the B&O amp, but in all honesty doing that is like putting a 1 inch Band-Aid on a 10 inch cut hoping that stops the bleeding. You need to fix the root cause of the problem to really improve the overall performance of the B&O system and that's the signal.

I was thinking about this again the other day...I agree that the signals from each channel look unimpressive. Do you happen to have a frequency response graph taken from the driver’s seat when the amp is outputting the signals seen in the previous pics? Just wondering if the response we hear looks similar to those signals or if they complement each other to produce something less offensive looking.



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[Strong Man]

Nicely done. The only thing I’m missing in your setup is sound insulation, like dynamat

[Elbeau]

great thread. i'll be tackling my sound system at some point... came from having B&O which was sufficient for me, and now i just have the stock system, which sucks.

i know nothing about sound systems but it seems like the stock system is kinda "boomy" and does has a very "hollow" sound like i've cranked the bass up on a boom box from 2002. does anybody have any suggestions for brands and specific products/models for a modest upgrade. i don;t need anything crazy, just something thats on par with B&O (or a smidge better [:D] )I have an added AudioControl restorer and 12" Memphis subwoofer and amp. It was added to the car before I got it. But I know this equipment is not expensive and it sounds much better than the B&O without it.

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[Elbeau]

Dynavin is another option for an "add-on". I just recently installed mine and while it isn't perfect, it gives me what I wanted (A2DP, Nav, ability to add back-up cam, and capability to add DVD player for the kiddos). I'll see if I can't get some pictures posted later.I'd rather see if you could.

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[Aegix]

Nicely done. The only thing I’m missing in your setup is sound insulation, like dynamat

I have deadened the inside of the doors and the outer face as well the door trim panels and the spear wheel area. I did not take any specific pictures, if you look closely on some pictures you will see some Silent Coat layers.

[Ultrakd]

I'm using a audition bit dmi to feed 3 JL VXi amps. Have JL C7s in the front stage and C5s in the rear with a 13w7 for the sub.

Haven't finished my box yet I'll take pics when it's done.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190919/6cac267e73c67de46461096037151ffe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190919/d4ac79e4edcbf4f59ec342ccca0abe8c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190919/7fba200c25f53f6c706bf12992d3dab4.jpg


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[ambesolman]

I have deadened the inside of the doors and the outer face as well the door trim panels and the spear wheel area. I did not take any specific pictures, if you look closely on some pictures you will see some Silent Coat layers.

Any chance you know about how many sq ft it takes to do each or both doors and the trunk? Sometimes I see a 2 door kit without measurements and other times I just see measurements without telling how many doors that it will actually cover.


I'm using a audition bit dmi to feed 3 JL VXi amps. Have JL C7s in the front stage and C5s in the rear with a 13w7 for the sub.

Haven't finished my box yet I'll take pics when it's done.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190919/6cac267e73c67de46461096037151ffe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190919/d4ac79e4edcbf4f59ec342ccca0abe8c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190919/7fba200c25f53f6c706bf12992d3dab4.jpg


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Would you mind taking a pic with the sail panel removed please? I’d like to see what it looks like.


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[Ultrakd]

Any chance you know about how many sq ft it takes to do each or both doors and the trunk? Sometimes I see a 2 door kit without measurements and other times I just see measurements without telling how many doors that it will actually cover.



Would you mind taking a pic with the sail panel removed please? I’d like to see what it looks like.


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I did about 3 sheets per door. I didn't fully fully deaden them. You should be able to get away with a 36sq ft or a 58sq ft bulk kit for sure. Just depends how much you're wanting to do. I need to do my rear deck and my trunk lid. I didn't do as much as my last car.

And what did you want a pic of again?


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[AllLowd]

I dont know if this has been mentioned, but with the Audison dsp/amp ap8.9 bit, 4.9 and f8.9, you can get a harness that plugs into the stock deck, and then to the Audison amp, which allows you to power all (well 8) of your doors, tweets, etc., without having to run new wires for stock speaker locations, or the need to splice into any harness. They also have extention cables for different length runs depending where you install the Audison amp, and it has a out to connect a sub amp. With the Audison software you can time align, sum, eq, etc, and it also controls the signal to the sub.
Harness = AP T-H AVS02 for 52 pin or AP T-H AVS01 for 40 pin depending on what stock system you have.

[waxxonMTL]

I dont know if this has been mentioned, but with the Audison dsp/amp ap8.9 bit, 4.9 and f8.9, you can get a harness that plugs into the stock deck, and then to the Audison amp, which allows you to power all (well 8) of your doors, tweets, etc., without having to run new wires for stock speaker locations, or the need to splice into any harness. They also have extention cables for different length runs depending where you install the Audison amp, and it has a out to connect a sub amp. With the Audison software you can time align, sum, eq, etc, and it also controls the signal to the sub.
Harness = AP T-H AVS02 for 52 pin or AP T-H AVS01 for 40 pin depending on what stock system you have.

Looking forward to have my F8.9 installed!

[ambesolman]

I did about 3 sheets per door. I didn't fully fully deaden them. You should be able to get away with a 36sq ft or a 58sq ft bulk kit for sure. Just depends how much you're wanting to do. I need to do my rear deck and my trunk lid. I didn't do as much as my last car.

And what did you want a pic of again?


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Thanks! How big are those sheets?

Behind the sail panel (where the tweeter is)


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[vsaudi]

Interesting speaker layout. How’s the sound? Enveloping or gimmicky?


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I didn’t like the sound but some do. Adding more low quality speakers doesn’t make sound any better no matter how good the processor.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190922/5ff0fe880bd1c5fb119447d2342e3669.jpg


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[vsaudi]

Thanks! How big are those sheets?

Behind the sail panel (where the tweeter is)


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I used 64sg ft. Bought the bulk pack dynamat xtreme with 72sq ft and have one sheet left.
Did all four doors inside behind mid-bass, on face of door and some on panel, under back seat, whole back of car and inside rear cubbies.


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[Aegix]

Does it make sense to opt for a MOST interface? Is the quality gained worth it?
Currently, I am using High input from the head unit, not sure if the quality difference will warrant the investment (500 euros for a Helix SDMI25).

[Ultrakd]

Thanks! How big are those sheets?

Behind the sail panel (where the tweeter is)


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190922/c70325e0e0021e5c57bdb8a1461660d1.jpg



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[Ultrakd]

Does it make sense to opt for a MOST interface? Is the quality gained worth it?
Currently, I am using High input from the head unit, not sure if the quality difference will warrant the investment (500 euros for a Helix SDMI25).

Yes I'm using a audison bit dmi which plugs into the most network. So much simpler to use and you will get a high quality signal, the only downside is your amps will need a optical input. And you lose the "surround sound" because it becomes a 2.1 signal


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[vsaudi]

Does it make sense to opt for a MOST interface? Is the quality gained worth it?
Currently, I am using High input from the head unit, not sure if the quality difference will warrant the investment (500 euros for a Helix SDMI25).

I went with NavTV Zen in my B9. Connects directly into OEM fiber harness. Then used TOSLink into mosconi DSP.

Using SD card for music source and this is the lowest noise system that I have ever heard. IMHO it is worth it.



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[Aegix]

This is the reason why I was looking to buy a MOST interface. The noise level on the high inputs when I max the system is annoying AF.
I might give it a shot and buy the Helix sdmi25, i will return it if i won't be impressed by the difference.

[vsaudi]

This is the reason why I was looking to buy a MOST interface. The noise level on the high inputs when I max the system is annoying AF.
I might give it a shot and buy the Helix sdmi25, i will return it if i won't be impressed by the difference.

Check compatibility with your model and year. There are different MOST versions.



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[cybernet99]

This is the reason why I was looking to buy a MOST interface. The noise level on the high inputs when I max the system is annoying AF.
I might give it a shot and buy the Helix sdmi25, i will return it if i won't be impressed by the difference.

Did you set the gains properly through the system? If you just crank the output up, the noise will be crazy bad with any system. If you set the gains correctly you should be able to manage the noise floor level reasonably. Here is a great video on setting gains properly through a system.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eRYzXBmWq8 JL Audio

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGVJcn8lASs SMD

[Aegix]

I believe I did. I played 40hz +0db and adjusted the input level and then 1000hz and did the same, i actually have the level set a bit lower then the unclipped max level is. I dont think that is an issue.

[Ultrakd]

I went with NavTV Zen in my B9. Connects directly into OEM fiber harness. Then used TOSLink into mosconi DSP.

Using SD card for music source and this is the lowest noise system that I have ever heard. IMHO it is worth it.



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Yea unfortunately the Navtv piece isn't available for b8/8.5


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[Ultrakd]

Check compatibility with your model and year. There are different MOST versions.



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The bit dmi will work just the ones without the factory amps will have to have the amp output turned on with Vagcomm


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[Ultrakd]

Did you set the gains properly through the system? If you just crank the output up, the noise will be crazy bad with any system. If you set the gains correctly you should be able to manage the noise floor level reasonably. Here is a great video on setting gains properly through a system.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eRYzXBmWq8 JL Audio

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGVJcn8lASs SMD

While yes these are correct. Factory systems have preset eqs in the headunits that can't be changed. So the high level signal going into the amps will still be "dirty". So you will never be able to get as much out of the system as you would if you had a "clean" flat signal. That's what the integration pieces do is give you a clean flat eq'd signal so you'll be able to get as much out of it as possible without issues clipping or damaging your equipment.


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[Ultrakd]

Did you set the gains properly through the system? If you just crank the output up, the noise will be crazy bad with any system. If you set the gains correctly you should be able to manage the noise floor level reasonably. Here is a great video on setting gains properly through a system.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eRYzXBmWq8 JL Audio

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGVJcn8lASs SMD

While yes these are correct. Factory systems have preset eqs in the headunits that can't be changed. So the high level signal going into the amps will still be "dirty". So you will never be able to get as much out of the system as you would if you had a "clean" flat signal. That's what the integration pieces do is give you a clean flat eq'd signal so you'll be able to get as much out of it as possible without issues clipping or damaging your equipment.


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[Ultrakd]

Did you set the gains properly through the system? If you just crank the output up, the noise will be crazy bad with any system. If you set the gains correctly you should be able to manage the noise floor level reasonably. Here is a great video on setting gains properly through a system.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eRYzXBmWq8 JL Audio

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGVJcn8lASs SMD

While yes these are correct. Factory systems have preset eqs in the headunits that can't be changed. So the high level signal going into the amps will still be "dirty". So you will never be able to get as much out of the system as you would if you had a "clean" flat signal. That's what the integration pieces do is give you a clean flat eq'd signal so you'll be able to get as much out of it as possible without issues clipping or damaging your equipment.


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[vsaudi]

The bit dmi will work just the ones without the factory amps will have to have the amp output turned on with Vagcomm


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I am not the expert but understand that the Audi B9 has MOST 150 and NavTV zen is only option for plugging in most plug to system.


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[Russpilot]

Well, this forum has cost me again!! After reading this entire thread, I pulled the trigger on the Audison Voce 3.0s. They will join the 2x12" enclosed Kicker sub box and 400 watt Kicker amp that I put in the electronics cubby. I gotta stop reading the threads in this forum... I'm going broke!